OILING A CLOCK - Fitting the Mainsprings - Clock Repair Shop - Vlog 008 - Workshop Wednesday

[@minicar47]

Dankjewel . Ik vond dit erg leerzaam voor mij 👍.

[@TommyJobson]

You are most welcome.

[@jamesnicholson3313]

Thankyou Tommy, very interesting and informative, I always love the look of those movements after restoration how clean and shiny they are, now I understand how new springs look as compared to old set springs, thanks again. Jim from AUSTRALIA.

[@TommyJobson]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@KevinWoodsWorkshop]

Thanks Tommy that was very interesting, I’m learning new new techniques from your videos.

[@TommyJobson]

Great to hear!

[@Ange1166]

great work well worth watching

[@TommyJobson]

Much appreciated!

[@daibhiseaghdha153]

how did you learn your trade, there must be a huge amount of things to learn,.plus the practical skills.

[@DIlic-iz9tx]

_Bravo._ 🙋

[@cameronmccreary4758]

Very nice milling machine. I'm looking for something like that so I can get back to making the "old world" parts that I used to make years ago.

[@TommyJobson]

You won't go wrong in getting an Aciera F3, they are superb machines.

[@patkirk960]

Nice mills those, very nicely made. I worked for Hamworthy Combustion for a number of years. We had two of those that were still in full time use up to 2010 or so. We used a horizontal drilling head and simple spin fixture mounted on the ‘x axis, spin fixture would swing to various angles relative to the drilling head . We would drill smallish batches of gas/oil burner nozzles/tips. Loads of different nozzle types required for different burner replacements, Guys had clever manual way to align steam holes to hit cross holes.. I’m rambling but skilled guys could (just) beat the production cost of running CNC machines.. for smaller production runs!!

[@crozwayne]

@@TommyJobson or Deckel, Schaublin but I agree, the Swiss German machine tools are the best for this type of work

[@darynradcliffe2909]

I like yer assembly frame/stand ,puts my kiddie's stacking cups to shame 😆

[@TommyJobson]

Yes, it's really usefull. I would be careful using plastic stands, my experience is that they can easily become rough enough to scratch.

[@darynradcliffe2909]

@@TommyJobson i cover them with cloth or tissue but yes.....

[@MrBanzoid]

Nice Gents clock on your wall. I "inherited" one from the rubbish skip along with the master timing device complete with mercury switches. It's a bit gummed up with old oil right now but I'll get round to cleaning and re-oiling it. It will look nice on the wall at the bottom of the stairs. Great videos by the way, thanks. I've just discovered your channel and I'm binge watching them.

[@TommyJobson]

Thanks very much, I'm glad you found me and are enjoying the content. I have a soft spot for electric clocks and love the Gents C7 and GPO 36. I also have a Synchronome, but that is not up and running yet.

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hello Tommy, A very enjoyable and relaxing video... fabulous watching a true craftsman at work. Thank you. Take care. Paul,,

[@TommyJobson]

My pleasure, thank you for the comment.

[@jacqueso8424]

You said "pegging" is important, what does it do to the brass pivot holes? Otherwise very interesting video and thank you for bringing your skill to the world out here and there

[@kaiphantom9934]

Супер! Это магия какая-то!

[@TommyJobson]

Thank you!

[@pauldyck4596]

This was a very relaxing video to watch - your thoroughness and care are something to aspire to. Clearly you know what you are about. Two questions: 1. When assembling the strike side do you sometimes find it necessary to separate the plates and reposition wheels to get it to lock properly, or do you have some secret for getting them right the first time? 2. Having gone to the trouble to get all the brass polished and shiny, do you seal it with something such as lacquer or polyurethane or wax to prevent corrosion? Thanks for your terrific videos.

[@TommyJobson]

Thanks Paul. It depends on the clock, sometimes I leave the parts bare and take care not to handle the parts with my bare fingers, but often I will wax the plates with microcrystaline wax. Regarding setting up the strike, you can attemt to get it right first time by lining everything up carefully, but very often the plates will needd splitting to make an adjustment. I lost the footage of assembling the strike work on this clock so I couldnt show it this time.

[@jbranstetter04]

When you pin the pillars to the frame, how much force do you use? It looks like quite a bit.

[@kowalskiwieslaw5269]

Vagnifique travaille

[@clc7800]

Thanks for the great video. What type of wood do you use for pegging? Thanks

[@TommyJobson]

I'm afraid I have no idea! I buy it in bundles from a clockmakers supplier.

[@Bonvivantaster]

I'm really enjoying your channel and watching you work! I've stumbled onto something wonderful! I'm impressed with the high precision of your work and fabulous machinery, and I particularly enjoy how carefully and clearly you explain your work. I was surprised to watch you carefully brush all dust away from your work surface - and then carefully brush debris off of each component onto the work surface... Would it be better to brush your components clean away from the work surface?

[@bobvines00]

Tommy, I've got a few beginner-level questions that I need to ask. When you use the "pointed stick" (I forget the correct term) in the holes, is that to slightly burnish any sharp edges? What type of wood is that? Would you consider making a video about the different lubricants that you use as a Clockmaker/Watchmaker to explain when, where, & why you use them, including what properties are most important for each usage (if possible)? When you apply the oils, it looks to me that you either use a small screwdriver tip or a special tool to control the size of a drop of oil applied, like what model makers use to (attempt to) control the amount of glue they apply to plastic models -- could you explain/show what you are using? Also, the main spring winder/unwinder that you use -- is that something that you can go into more detail on? Or at least give the proper terminology for so I can look for information? I've got a broken/damaged main spring in a "family heirloom" mantle clock that might benefit from a tool like that (the local clock repairman either retired or died a few years back and his shop disappeared). Watching you reassemble this clock reminded me of what I assume was an analog avionics computer of some sort that a co-worker saved from a scrap bin back in the early '80s. It was shoe box sized and had between 3 & 5 "plates," filled with _many_ dozens of gears along with servos/synchros, with _lots_ of bearings, some of which were the smallest ball bearing assemblies that I'd ever seen (instrument bearings). It also had what I assume were jewel-type bearings like you use in clocks & watches (a red solid material with a hole in it for the spindle, but I forget the profile). I'm still kicking myself for not saving it in one piece as it was when saved, even though it wasn't a complete device when found.

[@TommyJobson]

Thanks for the comment, I use different weight oils for different parts of the train, depending on the load they are subjected to and the speed at which they move. I oil using an 'oiler' which is a steel tool with a small blade at the end to help hold the oil. The pegwood is to remove the residual dirt in the pivot holes. It rubs the dirt from the brass onto the wood, keep pegging until the wood comes away clean.

[@daibhiseaghdha153]

hello, is that a Gents c7 Pulsynetic Master Clock and a gmt 34 in the background a the beginnig of the video, it sounds like one, to me.

[@TimoHaveri]

Hi. Do you use these two different oils (HP-1300 and 9020) throughout the movement (minus the mainsprings)? Do you use any grease? I'm starting clock repair as a hobby and was wondering which oils I should buy that would cover all my needs. So far I have used some generic "clock oil" + "clock grease".

[@jamesmcdade2054]

do you use gt85 ptfe as the only lubricant for the spring?

[@TommyJobson]

No, I spray GT 85 onto the spring to coat all surfaces before winding it in, then when it's wound in I further lubricate with a few drops of lathe slideway oil.

[@RollaArtis]

4.22 I also have fitted these springs they are rather annoying. For some reason the manufacturer forms them giving extra turns and a very small centre with the wrong theoretical size. This effectively increases the diameter of the arbor and results in a reduced number of turns. Presumably they are frightened the spring will have too much stress at the centre and break.

[@TommyJobson]

Modern replacement springs are a bit hit and miss. They seem to be getting a bit better in quality now but there was a stage where replacement springs would need quite bit of 'sorting out'.

[@Paul-yk8bj]

Hi Tommy, great video as usual i notice you use two types of oil in the oil sinks why is that.

[@TommyJobson]

Hi Paul, I don't mix the oils in the same oil sink if that was your question. I use different types of oil for diffferent parts of the train. The lighter oil is at the top end.

[@Paul-yk8bj]

Thanks Tommy yes i did mean different parts of train

[@neilscragg2148]

Hi Tommy, was it not mentioned...or have you also moved away from the light smearing of a grease on the spring as well as not using the red oil can? 🙂 edit....just watched back and seen the gt85 bike spray, is that your now replacement as an addition to the slide oil? also...i should maybe move on from the W brand of oil in the sinks. 😁

[@neilscragg2148]

Also after a re-cap😁 I'm assuming they were new springs, besides you tidying up the edges....am I correct thinking you opened the hole ends up from a tapered opening to a parralel? Is this something you generally do...or because it was just required for a marry up to the hook on this particular barrel?

[@TommyJobson]

Hi Neil, eagle eyed as always! Yes I have developed my mainspring process away from any form of grease. I now spray with PTFE lubricant with the spring out, then oil with slideway oil when it's wound in. It seems to help prevent 'clunks'. Yes, I open out the holes to an oval shape. The punched holes in new springs are backwards, they shouldn't lock onto the hooking, also they have very tight corners which can crack. Thanks for your comments as always. T

[@juandedioscepaconforme4926]

TOMMY JOBSON SALUDOS CORDIALES DESDDE GUAYAQUIL ECUADOR MUY BUEN TRABAJO DE REPARACION DE RELOJES ANTIGUOS DE CUERDA 🇪🇨🙋‍♂️🕰⏰😀👍

[@treetopspider]

Great video. I feel like Ive been cheating by using nothing else but Windles oil on my french clocks. I think its time I got serious

[@TommyJobson]

Absolutly. I'm afraid Windles is not a quailty oil and extremely light. The oils I use are not cheap, but are certainly worth it.

[@GeorgeWadsworth]

Why is 'peggingout' really important?

[@TommyJobson]

Because it is the last line of defence against dirt in the oil and bearing. It is extremely important to pick up as much of the residual dirt from the brass in the bearing surfaces as possible to help keep the oil as clean as possible for as long as possible.

[@55ATA3]

Great video, I hope your video angles will get better so we get to see more of the work and not the back of your hands.

[@Broadgate]

I love your videos, but feel obliged to point out your left hand (and thumb) occludes what your right hand is doing…

[@marcin_szczurowski]

Ever considered pencil sharpener? ;)

[@TommyJobson]

For the pegwood? Yes but its hard to get a quick point on a small diameter peg wood, also I fancy the faceted surface from the knife cleans better. Thanks for watching!

[@theselectiveluddite]

G'day Marcin, The old horology books I've got back up what Tommy said, in that the edges of the facets do the cleaning and cut through the grime in the pivot holes :) Cheers