Old Hornby R751 Class 37 Has Lots of Problems. Can I fix it?

[@gerrygorman273]

Fantastic Bill, youve done a wonderful job on it. Knew it was in a bit of a mess, but was confident you could get it going. Love the quiet running, looks fantastic next to yours. Cant thank you enough for your help. Cheers Gerry

[@oobill]

I was actually quite surprised how well it ran once it was done as these motors are very temperamental. Pity it's been in the wars but it's going again and will last for years if treated better than it has been in the past.

[@gerrygorman273]

@@oobill i can guarantee it will Bill. Thanks again.

[@rydermike33]

Well done Bill. That brush component goes to prove that glue isn't the best of conductors! Hope the owner now has many happy hours running his Class 37. Thanks once more and great repair.

[@lloydpenfold486]

There is a 'conductive' glue on the market, but soldering is the best way to fix them.

[@donniblanco5239]

Quite a thorough “Workout” with that one - just about covers everything that would need doing. Loved seeing the two running together. Well done

[@Doritune.rcdrift]

What a result😄 I’ve been ripping my hair out with a bad running “bargain” off of ebay. I have a Triang Class 31 it runs like a bag of nails... i have actually found three Track pins in the Bogie assembly whilst stripping it down I just can’t get the thing to run smooth. Was really gutted not had anything this old before but it’s beyond my skill set to fully repair... one day I will get her going again

[@garethparkin9498]

I have one of these, got to love the growl from the motor, almost sounds like a real 37.

[@garysuttling8631]

Hi Bill I'm not sure if I'm doing this right to get hold of you. I've been watching your videos and was wondering if you would look at my locomotives. I have an email if you wish to contact,as I'm not sure how else to get you. [e-mail]

[@Keyswiz71]

I just looked up the release date for this model and realised that this was the first locomotive I got in 1977! Interesting you mention sparks as mine used to spark like hell which was a bit scary for a six year old lol!!

[@robertmarsh3588]

Great job! Lovely to see this running again.

[@graymodeler]

I have one of these. It has little traction without a steel track underneath. Mine has been converted to DCC and sound. It was very noisy and I traced that to the nylon armature bearings. I rolled up some thin brass sheet and inserted it into the bearings to quiet the growl.

[@RobinBassett]

8H22. The only running number I ever remember. Have one of these in a BR Royal Mail set. Love this. Even the sound!

[@DOCTORDROTT]

8H22 was the running number of a coal working in South Wales into Radyr Yard near Cardiff . Class 8 is partially fitted freight, vacuum braked wagons at the head of the train. I worked on the full size version for 40 years

[@michaeldavies9600]

You are a clever chap! You are lucky to have been blessed with nibble fingers,where as i have big old sausage fingers :)

[@robertgates7686]

I enjoy your videos. I found that the back of the motor bogie wheels can touch the traction magnet if the wheel back to back measurement is too small. This probably causes the sparking, Sometimes turning the traction magnet over helps with wheel clearance.

[@oobill]

On my own 37 and 35 I removed the traction magnets as they have no purpose on modern nickel track. I've found the sparking on running after a service is usually just the cleaned pickups bedding back in.

[@stewartclark1847]

Those spider motors have a distinctive sound. I have two locos both the A1-A1. Running both on my layout is quite noisey. Still enjoy running them!

[@malcolm1933]

So much patience good work

[@samwoodward8491]

great work resoldering the bruss regards sam woodward

[@charlie1872]

Good morning Bill, as I cannot get in touch with Chambs123 do you have a source for the machined flange wheels?

[@bobmills2511]

Nice to see your videos back on KZbin after such a long time. Looking forward hopefully to some new stuff if you’re able to. Have a Merry Christmas Bill 👍🎂🍷🍷

[@rogerdorrington]

Bill both the green and black wires are lying loose at the motor end in my model. Can you tell me where these solder to as I couldn't make it out on the video. Thanks.

[@garyburford5774]

I enjoy your repairs. On this motor, where did you put that little bit of insulation? I have one of these models, I’m trying to repair for a mate.

[@victorious436]

I originally thought the bogies on the model had been exchanged at some point for some spare ones off a class 50 as the cab steps are in the incorrect position. The reverse was quite evident on some withdrawn 50s as the cast bogies were reused leaving the withdrawn loco on a set of fabricated 37 bogies with the steps incorrectly positioned. A quick image search however shows thats how this model was made... they must of just used an existing production bogie design off a 50 already produced. An interesting video and I can tell you its a lot easier cleaning the amarture and comm on something this size then on the full size locos.

[@keithmccormac158]

Bogies were taken straight from Triang class 31. Later versions with Ringfield motor are correct.

[@BreadThemeParks]

I have that exact same train and it just stopped working and I'm not sure how to get it working again. any tips?

[@reliantrailways]

Looka good bill! But it's very quiet

[@abbush2921]

I quit smoking in 1998 , now thirty years later I know what to do with my ash trays !

Great video. 👍😃

[@barrycole8378]

Now we need to know how to fit a dcc chip to it.???? Any ideas.??

[@modelrailwaystrains]

Hi great video thanks

[@speleokeir]

I've got an R751, my 1978 Christmas prezzie and it has a ringfield motor. That looks considerably different. A replacement from an older model?

[@oobill]

The ringfield version came after this one. No doubt it ran better but I've always loved the growling noise the spider assembly motor makes.

[@speleokeir]

@@oobill So they gave it the same catalogue number despite having a different motor? I hadn't realised that. Of the locos I had as a kid my class 37 was the best performer. A great puller, fast and never derailed.

[@bianchikat]

gosh that was a labour of love. I would have let that one go..

[@oobill]

If you ever have any locos you want to let go let me know! :D

[@fenman1954]

For of those having heart palpitations with using a rotary wire brush the wheels are sintered iron hard as hell you won't damage them.

[@oobill]

Absolutely. Although I get annoyed with tiny bits of wire brush pinging everywhere. T-cut is my preferred way to clean wheels these days. Just takes a little longer.

[@BigDuke6ixx]

The flux capacitors always need upgrading on these vintage trains.

[@francisbush3001]

Hi I have a Lima class 43 witch looks like someone has tried to repair it and I was wondering if you could look at it for me

[@oobill]

Possibly yes. If you email me at [e-mail] including some pictures of the loco I'll let you know.

[@johnpriestley3714]

Hi Bill Just been watching this old Triang R751 of which I have one. The body still being in good condition rest of the loco most is okay. No picks from the trailing bogie still plastic wheels.. I did look at wondering if this could be converted to DCC. Seems not possible with ease. Any ideas Thanks great videos you seem to have a knack to keep these units going.

[@oobill]

I can't help with DCC conversion I'm afraid I have no experience of DCC. The original R751 has no front pickup which results in poor running over some points and crossings. I'd want to replace the plastic wheels on that bogie with metal ones and rig up a pickup system back to the motor.

[@barrywest8944]

I have an identical version, can traction tyres be fitted to this model? Good video though.

[@oobill]

Not directly as the drive wheels aren't designed for them. I would add weight to the loco chassis if I had traction issues but mine pulls a rake of 3 coaches fine. Lots of coaches and any gradients would likely be an issue though.

[@barrywest8944]

@@oobill thanks, mine pulls a rake of 4 coaches a 5th coach makes the wheels slip.

[@saltspringrailway3683]

When you suddenly used the power tool I jumped out of my skin. Any viewers with a heart condition?

[@johngibson4641]

I was just drifting off to sleep when certainly woke me up and got to watching the finish of the video for once without falling asleep again (and no its not a boring video Bill ,, its late here in australia haha) haha Cheers from John in Australia

[@mikeking2539]

I have one of these, but a later one as mine has BR TOPs number, doesn't go anymore :-(

[@DaiElsan]

Lol. Someone glued the brush back on.

[@melissanewton7462]

I've cleaned mine up. Put new brushes and put it all back together correctly and all mine does is short. What is causing this? Do I need a new motivator or rotavator? I have found the problem. No insulator on the spring. It runs now but in the opposite direction to my other class 37s ! Can't see why ? Aggh!

[@oobill]

First thing I'd check would be the little insulating sleeve on the brush clip. They can become conductive over time.

[@paulb8186]

The magnets been put back the wrong way around

[@DOCTORDROTT]

The bogies on this early model are actually Brush type two bogies ( class 31 ) so are wrong , cost saving

[@scottmcneil1150]

What contact cleaner do you use ?

[@oobill]

WD40 Contact Cleaner.

[@DaiElsan]

You could add a little T-Cut to the paper.

[@scottmcneil1150]

And what grease do you recommend ?

[@oobill]

Moly Grease

[@Noblelox]

You put the brush back on 90 degrees wrong, so the wear groove is running top to bottom...

[@ashlybrown5341]

I've one of these spent many hours to get it to work and then it will decide not to again

[@oobill]

The motor in these things can be temperamental. Keep it well oiled and clean especially the pickups but if they ran perfectly all the time it wouldn't be as much fun!

[@ashlybrown5341]

@@oobill I got to work in the end under the nut on top of the motor theres a little bras contact that had moved but when I put it the track it will run nicely for a few minutes and just stop but if I touch the the nut it will be again and so on I've try tighten it up and visor virser

[@oobill]

@@ashlybrown5341 The brass contact needs to be in contact with the copper pickup and the brush retaining clip. If the brass contact has flattened it'll need bending a little to ensure good contact with the copper pickup. Make sure all parts are clean and dont over tighten the nut.

[@DOCTORDROTT]

8H22 head code for a coal train working in South Wales

[@DOCTORDROTT]

Aberdare H.L. 21:25 21:30 LD Aberdare S.P. 21:35 23:35 LD H21 Aberdare 23:45 23:50 Cl.9 Severn Tunnel Jcn. 03:00 04:15 Cl.6 MX Stormstown 06:38 06:xx EBV Aberdare S.P. 07:xx 08:55 LD M-S H22 Aberdare 09:00 As Ordered by Control. Aberdare S.P. 15:55 16:50 LD SX Aberdare H.L. 17:00 17:10 Cl.9 Stormstown 17:52 18:55 Cl.9

[@stevedunningduckinggiraffe6296]

The best thing you can do with these Tri-ang type 37s is flog them on ebay and get something that works properly - I did!

[@oobill]

On one hand I agree as it gives folk like me more bargains on ebay and on the other hand I disagree as it's fun repairing them. :)

[@gerrygorman273]

Steve Duning, you not see the end result with it running? I happen to like the 37s couldnt give a shit what you do with yours