Oliver Electrical Systems: Alternators, Starters, and 200 Subscribers! Oh my!!!

I’m Ross aka “The Oliver Man”. I farm with Oliver and White tractors here in beautiful Southern IN. I have over 30 Oliver and White Tractors in my collection (plus a few other colors). Please Like and Subscribe for more Oliver and White Videos!
Follow Me on Facebook: / rieckersfarms
If you’d like to buy the alternators used in the video, click these links:
Delco 10SI One Wire: amzn.to/31orY1O
Delco 10SI 3 Wire: amzn.to/3ddrhv5
Mini Alternator: amzn.to/3Efou09
Voltage Regulator: amzn.to/3EmO3wb
Regulator Pigtail: amzn.to/3okYVFC
Alternator Pigtail: amzn.to/3Dec5Zb
10SI Pigtail: amzn.to/31qpyQe
Anti-Feedback Diode: amzn.to/3ojqr6k
If you wish to contact me, send an email to: [e-mail]
If you wish to send me stuff, fan mail, or more likely hatemail, send it to:
Ross the Oliver Man
PO Box 81
Brownstown IN 47220
Thanks for Watching!

[@hacc220able]

Thanks for sharing

[@rosstheoliverman]

Thanks for watching!!!

[@chrishorton6605]

Years ago I was a JD Tech. At Deere electrical trainings they were emphatic that voltage sense wires (from battery or load center to regulater or direct to alternator) must never be abandoned for a jumper to the alternator output. Reason being that the voltage at the alternator output is not always the same as what is at the battery or main load center due to voltage drop during high load applications (such as at night). The result is that the voltage at the battery will be several 10ths of a volt lower than it should be and the battery will be under charged. Also, when Deere went from direct drive Delco starters to Nippondenso reduction gear starters this cured the vast majority of cold start issues.

[@rosstheoliverman]

That’s interesting! Thanks Chris!

[@canadianHAWK3]

awesome.

[@rosstheoliverman]

Thanks!!

[@rosstheoliverman]

@Jamie and Michelle Bowman I know they’re getting better. Used to it seemed like you had to go almost wide open to get them started charging. The One wire stuff is great for a quick conversion!

[@user-is1cb5me8v]

great video thank you for telling people about the different alt

[@genereece8062]

Mr Ross I have a 1971 Oliver 1250 series I think it has a 24 volt system can I just go buy a 12 volt starter and replace the 24 volt one I enjoy you videos.

[@hughperkins707]

You’re doing great videos

[@rosstheoliverman]

Thanks!!

[@matthewschlichting5962]

I can’t believe the belt guard is still there

[@rosstheoliverman]

I know. They’re usually missing and for good reason. I ended up taking this and back off again because it just wasn’t worth the headache.

[@matthewschlichting5962]

@@rosstheoliverman they are a absolute pain

[@jamieebersole6755]

Call me weird but I like to keep the original generators and even 6 volt if they came that way originally. I'm guessing I would change my mind if it wouldn't be for the local repair shops that are really good with fixing them. If they rebuild a generator for me I normally don't have any issues with it for a long time.

[@rosstheoliverman]

I do like originality, but functionality kind of takes priority most of the time. I still have all the generator so I can put them back if I want to.

[@jamieebersole6755]

@rosstheoliverman if it wasn't for having someone to fix the generators I probably would be putting alternatures on mine to. I do like gear reduction starters though. My Peterbilt with a cat engine had a regular one on it and if I had to put one back on it would have been much sadness getting it in place between the frame rail. The gear reduction one I could hold in place with one hand because it was much lighter

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Wow, that starter does spin it fast. Now I just need to get over the need to keep stuff original. On your new voltage regulator, I see it has the riveted on cover, so a solid state regulator. Not a big deal, but I wanted to mention they have them for generators as well, and they don't take well to polarizing the generator. I put one on my 1600, polarized the generator and let the magic smoke out!

[@rosstheoliverman]

I fight the internal struggle of originality all the time, but after enough aggravation I usually end up choosing function first. I never throw original parts away so it can always be put back. That is true, About being solid state. Circuitry doesn’t like old school ways. So your regulator puffed the magic dragon huh? 🤣

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

@@rosstheoliverman Yep. I've found that polarizing isn't all that necessary. I've got so many that don't have a battery in them for months or more, I throw a battery in to fire them up and they charge just fine, so I don't mess with it any more.

[@rosstheoliverman]

I know what you mean. Buying batteries, keeping the charging system working, and keeping the fuel system clean is hard when you have lots of tractors. I thought about just using a few batteries and moving them but that got old real quick. I just started buying the cheapest 12V NAPA battery (6526) and putting it in all the ones I don’t use everyday. I try to start everything regularly but we all know how that goes.

[@mathewgibbon701]

Could you do a video for dummies on positive ground to negative ground conversion, on a 1600 gas or similar. Would be greatly appreciated

[@rosstheoliverman]

I probably can at some point. I covered a lot of that material way back in the Starters/alternators video:kzbin.info/www/bejne/qZbYk6Z_o7h9aNE

[@motorguy4960]

Do you normally keep your older olivers positive ground or switch to negative? I re-wired a 550 but am having a hard time getting the idiot lights/buzzer to work correctly. The wiring diagram in the old IT manual is a little vague as well lol.

[@rosstheoliverman]

If I can salvage the original set up I’ll keep the generator and positive ground. But if it’s too much trouble I’ll just switch it to the 12 V alternator

[@Loyd-qf9ni]

Mine has a gen 24 v.

[@rosstheoliverman]

The 1250 used 24 volt

[@tomharrington1393]

🚜🚜

[@gerryhoffman5667]

Hey great videos. How much is a gear reduction Starter. .? Keep the videos comming !

[@rosstheoliverman]

Thanks! Last I checked they were right at $200. I get them from Maple Springs Farms.

[@gregsimon7468]

Per 19:14, if you upgrade this solenoid I assume you just join both of the non-load wires into the single center post. Is this correct? Thx

[@gregsimon7468]

More specifics....going from a four post (two load carrying large diameter posts and two small signal posts) to a 3 post (two load carrying posts and one signal post).

[@rosstheoliverman]

You have to run a new wire from your keyswitch to your ignition coil. Otherwise it will only fire while cranking

[@gregsimon7468]

@@rosstheoliverman how might that before and after circuit look? I have no history or schematics to guide me on this. I was assuming the switch trigger was closest to 12vdc and i wasnt sure what the other wire was.

[@southwind3]

Ross, on the 10SI, a wider pulley would be better to fit the belt!

[@rosstheoliverman]

That’s true. If you’re talking about the 60, I did that one in a rush because the tractor was going to be used to pull a float in a parade. I’ve never gotten back to it. It’s probably going to get switched to a mini alternator at some point.

[@southwind3]

@@rosstheoliverman Very well Ross, I really enjoyed your videos, take care!

[@rosstheoliverman]

Thanks!

[@richardchambers7855]

Question do you know if side curtains from Oliver 66 fit a Oliver 77?

[@rosstheoliverman]

The 66 and 77 front curtains are the same size. The rear panels are different.

[@johnkissack5295]

Hey buddy, I have a 88 6 volt. What’s the steps to switch it from 6volt to 12 volt?

[@rosstheoliverman]

Different battery, different coil, alternator, different bulbs in your headlights

[@johnkissack5295]

@@rosstheoliverman thanks Ross

[@choreboy3906]

Explain hydro lectric. This effectively killed Oliver.

[@rosstheoliverman]

That Oliver guy Chris Losey has a video about hydraelectric. He has a Tractor that it works on and he explains it all