How to Glaze a Window - Part 4: Sash Window Restoration

[@BradshawJoinery]

If you would like to show your support by giving back to us go to our Patreon page here - patreon.com/BradshawJoinery

[@bil-k6h]

5 years on you’ve done an amazing job teaching me to fix my windows saving me 20k easily mate love how indepth and informative they are

[@BradshawJoinery]

Amazing, thats great news. Love it

[@mattcable6379]

Hey buddy. Thanks so much for making these videos - I think they're extremely informative and well put together. I do fine interiors, pannelled walls, alcove cabinets etc, and love learning about 'joinery'. I really appreciate what you're taking the time to do these. Kindest, Matt

[@BradshawJoinery]

Hi Matt, thanks for taking the time to comment!! Pleased to hear they are well received. got some more joinery content coming soon!!

[@NeilDunlop]

Not a prolific KZbin commenter but thought a thanks was in order. Lots of great tips (knife to lift tape backings... genius!) and in a great format too. 🤟

[@BradshawJoinery]

Neil, cheers buddy, hopefully they all help you out and you can take something from them. appreciate you taking the time to comment!

[@tonyb6173]

These are the best hands on joinery instructional videos I've come across on the web. I've been blundering along making windows, doors etc for years, non professionally, and the information contained in your videos would have saved me a lot of time, frustration and allowed me to do a more professional job.I wish i had seen something like your videos 20 years ago. your obviously a fine and efficient tradesman plus a natural teacher. If I could make a request or suggestion for a couple of videos. I'd like to see how you sharpen your chisels and planes (mine seem to be permanently blunt and I don''t know if its me or our Australian Hardwoods) and also a walk around of workshop showing the fantastic machines you have. Thanks for taking the time to share your skills

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks Again Tony! I replied to your other comment buddy :)

[@chazlennox9597]

Another great detailed video. Thanks very much. I'm feelings so much more confident about restoring my own windows after watching this. Keep up the good work.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks for saying so Ian, it's the positive comments that are keeping me filming a few bits! I really hope they do help!

[@alistairmcmeekin5382]

Great detail. Thanks for taking the time to make such a comprehensive video series. Alistair

[@BradshawJoinery]

Cheers Alistair!!

[@lawrenceschall3496]

Excellent video. I have a fogged up fixed frame insulated pane 22"w 56"h which must be done in place from the outside. It is one pane of a 4 pane bowed bay window on first floor of home. Frame is all wood. applying some of what I learned from your video, I will feel much more confident doing the job. I replaced one of the other panes about 10 years ago. Wish I had seen your video first!

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thankyou Lawrence, Pleased to have helped. If the tape isnt working use a sealant to bed the glass into and trim off with glass scraper and scalpel once dry. Like Dryseal Mp

[@simonatherley]

Great video, Richard. Really well put together. I am so glad I found this. Without it, I think I would have hit quite a few problems putting the replacement double glazed units in for my old steamed up kitchen windows.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Nice one!! glad it helped!! L)

[@drewbyscoobywho]

Another great video! Really get a lot from these long form videos, appreciate the time and effort you put into them, must slow you down loads! 👍👍👍

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks Andrew, it does slow things down a little and can trying to be inventive and not film similar things is difficult, but I have lots of ideas for future videos so that's good👍

[@SoundsToBlowYourMind]

Very useful series, thanks! Would be great if you could do a part 5, to show us round the finished windows on the property!

[@BradshawJoinery]

Part 5 will be repairing the boxes. Ive not got to it yet! 🤣🤣

[@platosocrates239]

Very neat job!

[@BradshawJoinery]

thankyou!

[@markrussell9719]

Another great video & fine job. It makes you appreciate the work that goes into making them. 👍

[@BradshawJoinery]

I did a video on some gates I made for a customer and they were astounded by the work involved! I've found it quite a good media for justifying the work sometimes.

[@shaunrish9516]

Nice clean professional job

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks Shaun!

[@lwsashcasewindows9980]

These sashes are superb.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks guys!

[@ratchriat1716]

top work those window is going to last 4 year's enjoyed the video.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks Ratch

[@mrbillllllllll]

Hopefully they’ll last more than 4 years

[@wellsyboi]

Lovely stuff. Nice edit too

[@BradshawJoinery]

oh aye

[@kevocos]

Brilliant series really enjoyed watching it and learnt a lot too! I was hoping to see how you went about repairing and refurbishing the frames and cills onsite as I thought that would be the more challenging part of the job!

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks! I still haven't installed these... (Family job) so will do the videos as and when I do so 👍

[@kevocos]

@@BradshawJoinery OK Brillant, and good luck with the work👍🔨

[@holman26]

nice one nice work

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks Sam

[@jonathanwalker2219]

Outstanding sash construction - simply outstanding! Is there a video on the installation with fitting and weatherstripping!

[@BradshawJoinery]

Cheers for that, there will be when I get round to doing it haha! They've been sat in the workshop a fair while now.... It's a job for myself that's not paying...!

[@royordway9157]

Nice series of videos. I'm glad I found your channel. It looks as though you did not caulk the exterior where the glass sits on the tape. Maybe I missed it. If you didn't seal that joint, aren't you afraid of water getting in that tiny space between the wood sash and the glass? I started doing carpentry when I was 19 and I'm 65 now. For almost 40 years I worked for a company that owned 20 old building in our downtown. During our slow times, we would remove the sash from the jambs, remove all of the glass, scrape all of the old glazing and make repairs to the sash. We'd prime the sash and replace the glass either with the glass that came out or if it was broken new glass. We got pretty good at glazing the windows after a couple months. These windows were big, some openings were 10 feet, 3.04 meters to 12 feet, 3.65 meters tall with arch tops. A lot of the window weights were 25 pounds, 11.4 Kg. I don't know how close my conversions are.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Hi Roy, thanks for the detailed comment! The tape is purposefully set low of the sight line so the sealant that is applied into the well that is left adheres to the bead and glass over a decent surface area. 👍 I have some sashes to do at some point. It's actually these ones thinking about it. They have sat in my store room for years

[@kinkankazoo3682]

Not watched them all the way through yet but they are great videos.Thanks very much.Have you got one of fixing the box section frames please?

[@BradshawJoinery]

It will be the next video in this series but I've not got around to it yet. It's a personal job so not taking priority at the minute!

[@parkerfairchild4365]

Thanks very much for making this series - really useful and informative - I enjoyed watching the entire thing and will set me right on a forthcoming dabble in glazing.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Hi Parker, thankyou very much! The next video in the series will be repairing the frames, but I'm so busy at the minute it will not be for a month or two atleast

[@rockandmeatroll]

howdy are you still planning to show an install of these, that would be very cool to see! Its a great series of videos ty

[@BradshawJoinery]

Hi Sean, yes I am, I've not got there yet I'm afraid but hopefully manage some before Christmas!

[@rockandmeatroll]

@@BradshawJoinery you're great, i think it'll end up being the most complete sash resource on YT. Keep up the great work!

[@jasonbrain4675]

Fantastic Video, superbly informative and detailed! Just a quick one, you mentioned a seal that you were putting in the sides of the frames rather than have a seal in parting beads. Can you share which one?

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks jason, its a Deventer Seal. Ive not used it yet, but hopefully will do soon.

[@Elli318]

Hi mate, just came across your channel while I was looking for which seals to use for my casement window refurbs and so happy I did. I'm now addicted to your videos, they are fantastically informative and your complete range of skills is very impressive for such a young chap. One question though on the wet seal; I have casement windows with Georgian bars therefore each leaf has 8 panes x 2 and a fixed centre pane with a top window, so each window has 24 individual panes of glass!! I sanded all the varnish off a couple of years ago and used the water based Dulux Weathershield system and the paint has already started to flake. Dulux seem to think its because water was getting under the glazing bars. The glazing seal is a Brown sealant which is like a 3mm tape and still flexible similar to blue tack. I was going to take the glass out and replacement the seals with the tape you used in your video but I wasn't going to add the silicone step. Would it be ok to just use the tape like you did on the inside, on the outside? would it be watertight? Sorry for the long question!!!

[@BradshawJoinery]

Cheers mate, i dont have a lot of time for replies, but, no, tape alone is no good unless you have a drained glazing system. the stuff theyve used is Butyl tape. i would use a thin butyl tape then do as ive done and mask/seal the primiter of every pane with a MS Polymer sealant (not silicone) You can then paint this. Dryseal Is the best one to use but youll need a strong or geared gun.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Cheers for the Beer buddy👍 looks like KZbin auto deleted your comment? Maybe it contained a link?

[@richardrobinson6926]

Thanks so much for your videos on sash windows. I’m looking at replacing the glass in my sash windows with double glazing. I would be fitting the units from the external side of the frames. Could I follow your method but have the beading on the outside with a glazing seal? Thanks for your time.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Hi Richard, yes follow the method. they are easier to make IMO externally glazed. the joints at the middle rail will obviously be slightly different but im sure you can work it out.

[@seanmcevoy4652]

I am hoping to make replacement sash windows for my grandfather's cottage built-in 1911, love wood, dislike plastic. I have enjoyed your videos and learned a lot from them, I intend to glaze from the inside as you have done, recently I acquired a stacked block for a spindle molder consisting of a rebate block and a beveled block on top, the bevel has two straights one vertically and the other horizontal on the bottom edge,. I had intended to do a straight chamfer to the outside edge, but fear the sharp edge on the angle scribe and it getting damaged, but I see from the video that you back cut this on the finished joint showing Vee grove to the front, with the block that I have the front of the sash will have a small step in around 2 mm at the base of the chamfer and a small flat at the top around 1.5 mm where it meets the glazed unit. I only woodwork as a hobby and hope to make these windows with my multico tenoner and a Maka swinging morticer sm6 I purchased it recently for €400 and it came with a 16mm chisel fitted in it, very fast and accurate machine built for batch production, the stacked block has insert knives and a shear cut rebate block bought it for €120 and the sash material will be Sapele Ex 50x50mm x 34"" long bought 240 pieces for €300, I think they were blanks for stair balustrades, I am delighted to have seen your videos I have only looked Nos 3 and 4 but will search for 1 and 2 and look at them, I have searched youtube for information on sash windows as I am sure many others have, most are just high-speed videos with no information content at all, your videos will help a lot of people like myself, and I thank you for your time and dedication to put these videos up online for everyone's benefit maybe you will be the next Norm Abraham, " The New British Workshop" maybe you might consider it.....

[@BradshawJoinery]

Hi Sean that's real great of you to write such a detailed comment and review! Hopefully one day i will get to refurb the frames i made these units for.... being a family job its taken a back seat! Ill be sure to film it when i do! Thankyou for the kind words and im real chuffed the videos have helped you out!! You sound much like myself, keeping a keen eye for a bargain machine that does everything you need it to! I used a multico for 4/5 years as an apprentice and better in some respects than the segdwick i have now (not all) Good luck my friend :)

[@maxwheeler8387]

Hi, can you explain why you glaze internally and what you would do differently if glazing from the outside. Thank you

[@BradshawJoinery]

I've got a video series coming out on casement windows soon! Internal glazing imo is better sealed and easier to service. Suited to spray finishing and stable Accoya and modern sealants. If using hardwood, and or traditional methods probably best externally glazed

[@danielallen316]

Great work. Would you know if FENCA registration applies when fitting double glazing to old existing windows?

[@BradshawJoinery]

No, if repairing just crack on and do whatever unless the house is listed in any way

[@rawiriwhare7405]

Well well I now believe in God moments. Firstly I have to say without reservation that this presentation was the very best in terms of good verbal advice and outstanding workmanship qualities. Thank-you.You may ask why, Well I am in the process of manufacturing two timber sashes made from our own precious New Zealand Totara which is equal in all their better qualities as the best wood for making timber sashes. The wood bears the same working characters of American cedar.These two sashes will be to incorporate a double glazed units in the order of 10mm glass 10 mm cavity and another 10 mm glass layer. It has called for the redesign of an alternative stile, top and bottom rail profile. The tips as to the fitting of the beads along with the use of a purpose designed sealant has been a blessing in disguise. As a carpenter by trade it has now made this project a challenge but armed with trade solid wisdom The only thing that caught me off guard was the use of your finger without a plastic finger separator. Many thanks and a worthy hour of precious wisdom.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Haha what a comment, thankyou very much. Very very soon i have a series on sash windows coming. they are think double glazed units however and externally beaded.

[@charliecharlie6016]

What sealant is that please mate I’m having a nightmare with silicone due to not paintable,cheers

[@BradshawJoinery]

Any MS Polymer sealant will work. The ultimate sealant for glazing purposes though is called dryseal from repair care.

[@andrewmacgregor8717]

I stumbled upon your channel while looking for information on constructing casement windows. I'm so glad I did! Very informative and useful series. I have a background in aluminium curtain wall and glazing details so I think in those terms. I appreciate your details, they make a lot of sense when looking at the whole system, but I have a question about the glass stops. Sealed units will occasionally fail and become contaminated, or be broken by a cricket ball and need replacing. Having the stop nailed into place might make re-re more difficult, to my thinking. I would suggest a rabbet in the frame and a tongue in the stop set down into the frame. Thoughts?

[@BradshawJoinery]

Hi Andrew, thanks for the comment, trouble with timber windows is they are timber, A tongue and groove would probably mean a dry glazing setup, then you need drained rebates and everything gets quite chunky and ugly. Fine beads and wet glazed (after proper painting) is a very long lasting method, and isnt too troublesome to replace units should they need to be, with a little redecoration.

[@JimBob-lz1gy]

Does the same principle apply when glazing internally or externally and would you do the same way if using say red grandis or idbigo or whatever, as it will move more than accoya even if they are durable. So if they move doesn’t the seal break, you cut the pane smaller, or does the seal flex? Is their also a rebate minimum for the pane you should do? Many thanks, great channel.

[@BradshawJoinery]

if glazing externally i would use accoya beads if painted whatever timber window, i would also fully seal the unit into the rebate with a ms polymer type product. the very best but very expensive being windowcare dry seal.

[@billpang4797]

The kodrin wv is the mastic for filling in the v grooves in the joints so can be painted over in any colour.

[@BradshawJoinery]

there are two kodrin wv, one is a end grain sealer in a tub, the other a v groove sealant in a tube.,

[@billpang4797]

Are they all easily available

[@BradshawJoinery]

amzn.to/3qF21nE use this for the perimeter seal 👍 End seal holmanpaints.co.uk/accessories/302-sikkens-kodrin-wv-456-clear-sealant-is-used-to-fill-pores-on-the-end-grains-of-joinery-to-inhibit-moisture-ingress.html V groove sealant holmanpaints.co.uk/accessories/314-sikkens-kodrin-wv472-elastic-sealant-for-joinery-v-joints.html

[@richardmarkham8369]

Really great series! Was there a part 5 showing refurb of the frame and fitting?

[@BradshawJoinery]

There will be, these still sit in the store room awaiting installation! 🤣 Cobblers shoes and all that

[@richardmarkham8369]

@@BradshawJoinery I'll be looking forward to it! I have 4 x triple bays and 4 x triple sash windows to repair in our house. All single glazed. I want to switch to double glazed and fit draft strips at the same time as repairing the rot. It's such a big job and the quotes I got were so mind boggling, I figured I'd have a crack at it myself. I have time and space to do it and a big Felder combi machine and mortiser, so I'm nearly ready to start. I'm not 100% sure if I can save the exisiting frames or not. They have been repaired in the past as least once. (1901 house). I see you used Accoya. Is it as good as they say? I've seen what it does to ironmongery and fixings that aren't stainless. It's supposed to be very stable but it's not all that strong? It's also interesting that you used traditional wedge joints instead of glued bridle joints that seem to be in use these days. You still put glue on the wedge joints and no pin though? Sorry for the long comment and questions!

[@jacobwootton4576]

What’s the jointing compound you use to stop cracks in the joints? I’m curious. Good vids old boy. Cheers

[@BradshawJoinery]

HI Jacob, the Sealant for V Grooves is Called kodrin wv. Its bloody brilliant for spraying aswell, any internal corners it dries really fast and paint really does stick to it well. (its almost sticky when its dry)

[@BarMagnet]

Should the rebates be painted under the double sided tape or just primer sealed? I'm thinking that if completely painted, with multiple coats, the bond strength is only the paint adhesion strength. Btw excellent video.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Ideally everything as sealed as possible, but aslong as the paint creates a seal over the sealant if painting after then all is good. Make sure the sealant will stick to the paint not like silicone which doesnt particularly stick well

[@julianday5466]

Excellent video Richard, many thanks. Could I use same system (tape + beads) to re-install leaded lights (not sealed units) to new hardwood frame in your opinion?

[@BradshawJoinery]

I would just use a glazing sealnt/putty replacement like repair care MP

[@julianday5466]

@@BradshawJoinery Thanks Richard, that's exactly what I did in the end - just a bead of sealant in the rebate and renewed the beading.

[@brianstenmark4744]

Hi, very much enjoyed your vid, found it very useful. What did you mean near the end of the video "the limited movement of coir"? Was it 'coir"? Thanks

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks Brian, Its the timber "accoya" thanks for watching.

[@billpang4797]

Is the tape you use available in the UK

[@BradshawJoinery]

Yes, its 2mm security glazing tape. and or georgian bar tape. Georgian bar tape is best, but limited in thickness ans width variations. i would use 2mm security glazing in the back of the rebate then 1mm georgian bar tape on bead.

[@tombristowe846]

I've been enjoying these videos, but when are you going to groove the sashes to take the sash cord?

[@BradshawJoinery]

I will do that when fitting, as these windows are located next to my workshop. You could use a router to do the groove or just cut them a little deeper in the workshoo to allow planing on site.

[@Gene0695]

Hi, just out of interest, what is the total thickness of the double glazed unit you used here? I know that both panes are 4mm thick, but what is the thickness of the space in between them? Also is the double glazed unit A-rated?

[@BradshawJoinery]

These ones are 4/6/4 so 14mm. No they wouldnt be A rated, but this is a repair so doesnt matter.

[@Gene0695]

@@BradshawJoinery Thanks for the response. Im currently re-glazing some standard thickness original victorian sashes with with double glazed units. Im cutting the rebates deeper with a router tool to accommodate this, I was thinking of using 14mm thick units as well, but as the efficiency increases as the space in-between the panes increases, I want to use the thickest double glazed units as possible, do you think that anything thicker than 14mm might be pushing it (bearing in mind space left over for the linseed oil face putty is also needed)?

[@BradshawJoinery]

If your doing that 14mm will be fine. Adding the extra piece of glass and the insulation will.make a massive difference over single glazed. The diffe5 of a thicker unit is negligible on that install. Stick with the thinnest you can reasonably source. You can add a different gas to the unit for a higher insulation value but again, the standard and best bang for buck would be 4/6/4 warm edge space, low e glass with argon gas fill

[@jamesisaac9416]

Great video! What is the advantage of using the tape as well as the sealant, rather than just sealant?

[@BradshawJoinery]

Cheers James, the tape gives you a reguarlized gap, its very easy to sqush all the sealant out in an area and have wood to glass with no flexibility between. it also helps should you need to remove a unit. a multitool scraper will zip along the rebates with foam tape but ones glues in with sealant are a right git to get out. You also dont use lots and lots of expensive sealant.

[@chaos.corner]

My existing sash windows are puttied which needs replacement. Would it be worth converting to beading?

[@BradshawJoinery]

with double glazing or single? if your chopping putty out, probably stick with putty, but you could bead them in if you wanted to!

[@philiphughes5302]

Good job, but should have applied silicone (low modulus neutral cure) behind the beads and over bead corners.

[@BradshawJoinery]

I am seriously against silicone going anywhere near a timber/painted item. It can be backed with other sealant repair care MP being the best IMO.

[@ianmanning8684]

Hi, is butyl seal with desiccant not needed for a double glazed unit ?

[@BradshawJoinery]

The sealed units have a butyl seal around them yes. Modern ones don't have the dessicant as there is no metal inside. 👍

[@rockandmeatroll]

Hi again, hope covid is staying away from you and yours. How do you paint these windows when the glass is in? Do you just tape over and spray over?

[@BradshawJoinery]

I wouldnt spray once glazed, these will be hand finished once they are fitted, the sprayed coating they have received is good enough protection already tbh, so just a decorative coat to go on.

[@rockandmeatroll]

@@BradshawJoinery thank you, your new spraying video is brilliant, very helpful.

[@jameswilliams5982]

I’ve had issues with dg units being miles out, ie sight line being 3-4 mm back behind the bead line

[@BradshawJoinery]

Yeah, they suck. Even on expensive glass links ive seen wobbly spacer bars. If they are back from the unit edge ist not as bad as sticking proud!

[@jameswilliams5982]

@@BradshawJoinery Yea true.. 👍

[@joshleyshon7528]

This is great, thanks! I'm about to do something similar. Is the inside of the glass a low e coating? And can you use masking tape to apply the sealant on the low e coated side? I'm worried it may damage the coating of the glass or leave a tape residue making it difficult to clean. I've heard the low e coating can be easily damaged and hard to clean.

[@BradshawJoinery]

The low e coating is on the inside of the unit so you won't be damaging it. The outer surface is normal glass

[@joshleyshon7528]

Ahh ok, I missed that. I'm sealing the inside with silicone and tape, the tape alone isn't sufficient for a good seal on my old windows. The outside I'm using putty. Cheers @@BradshawJoinery

[@BradshawJoinery]

Use hodgsons heritage putty or any other ms polymer sealant. I hate silicone, and normal putty will degrage the seal on the units. Dryseal is a good sealant if you want putty effect too

[@joshleyshon7528]

Thanks for the advice, really appreciate it. I am using a Selleys paint over sealant, not pure silicone, seems to be pretty good so far. I'm in Australia so we are limited with products, but I think the Timbabuild Timba Glaze looks like the closest thing to Hodgsons heritage putty? @@BradshawJoinery

[@rooster222221]

Hi, What sealant do you use please?

[@BradshawJoinery]

Hodgsons Heritage Putty now!

[@jjdeville7884]

Hi .. so you mask the glass off then top coat

[@BradshawJoinery]

On this JOb, i will hand paint the finish coat when they are installed. If spraying its all pre finished before assembly/glazing

[@alanboyles7118]

Hi Ollie, thanks for all your helpful answers for everyone! I’m externally glazing (Doug fir) and following your tape and cap bead method (though I think you mentioned somewhere you wouldn’t do it this way if externally glazing, I couldn’t think of why, so just went for it!). I had this question: I want to spray the top coat, if I do it before before assembly, I won’t get that paint seal between the beading and casement. Is that not as much of a problem as one might think? Feels like a way in for water.

[@marcelavram8400]

Nu am Mai vazut ASA ceva cinste voua Maramureseni acum VAD cum Lucrati sunteti deosebiti in cel Mai scurt timp super sa si colaboram pentruca me intereseaza si lists cu pretul pe Metru patrat pentru saswyndus si tot la fel pentru usile pentru exterior pe curind va Multumesc cu mare respect Avram

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thankyou very much! :)

[@billpang4797]

And where do you get the kodrin wv. Do they do it in black. The windows I will be making will be painted black thank you

[@BradshawJoinery]

Hi william, no it is a clear sealer, so can use any colour on top! Goodle sikkens Kodrin WV456 and slick down the links until you find a online retailer. i buy from Symphony coatings on account. will be about £15-£20

[@billpang4797]

Thank you for your help

[@billpang4797]

I will be trying to make some windows and room dividers. I do not have the machinery you have so we'll be using a domino machine and dowels. Hopefully I will be able to make them as slim as the crittall windows.

[@billpang4797]

Am I getting the products mixed up. What is the sealant used to fix the double glazed unit in it's white in your video do they do a black sealant

[@BradshawJoinery]

Ahh, it's an MS polymer adhesive/sealant. The best one is called dryseal MP available in white and light brown. I have used black ones before from Sovereign called pro stick 2000 I did notice some surface breakdown from UV after 5 years, but not catastrophic. Not tried anything else yet.

[@billpang4797]

The reason I ask is that the units will be painted black to look like wooden versions of the crittall windows

[@billpang4797]

Thank you for all your help all good advice

[@paulbilski9732]

Good video, BUT what is Very Liquid?

[@BradshawJoinery]

Fairy liquid. Washing up liquid. 👍

[@nosaltiesandrooshere7488]

👍

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks

[@platosocrates239]

Great job, but should also have filled void with Hodgsons silicon.

[@BradshawJoinery]

I hate silicone personally, every unit ive replaced even in new windows the silicone sticks to everything but the important seal points. Its also a nightmare come redecoration time. What is the reasoning for filling the void?

[@platosocrates239]

@@BradshawJoinery Have a look at Hodgsons Sealants. They provide instructions on how they are to be used. They use both non setting putty and silicone. I know some manufacturers who will not guarantee a unit unless the right silicone is used.

[@BradshawJoinery]

We always used to glaze according to hodgsons methods, but personally feel it's moved on from that with the implement of accoya

[@alexeynechaev266]

Why don't you use a commercial clear silicone (more forgiving for the aesthetics) - it should last up to 30 years as oppose to 10-20 years for polyurethane and acrylic sealants?

[@lmtliam]

Silicone sealant on a wooden window? Are you sure that's alright?

[@BradshawJoinery]

Hi Liam, it's not silicone, it's a MSPolymer sealant and yes. Perfect. The best one is Dryseal MP.

[@lmtliam]

@@BradshawJoinery Thanks! I'll try to get some Dryseal. I've started to refurbish wooden windows for building projects, and I'm investigating breathability, preservation, etc. Your videos have been very useful.

[@dustycups]

@@BradshawJoinery What's the issue with silicone sealant on wooden windows? I have a quantity of Dowsil 688 neutral cure glazing silicone sealant, which I was planning to use between timber frames and retro fitted double glazed units. Should I be using glazing security tape instead?

[@BradshawJoinery]

I'm not a fan of silicon on anything wood, it just doesn't last. You may also find your glazing silicone will say not suitable for double glazed units. I'd used a seal and like Dryseal MP. Much better than silicone, UV resistant and paintable.

[@dustycups]

@@BradshawJoinery Thanks for your reply, and all of this helpful information. The silicone sealant is neutral cure and says it's suitable for double glazing. However it seems tape is a better option. I'll be fitting windows in place vertically - I've seen people say that the tape can be misted with glass cleaner or water to allow the glass to be adjusted before it dries, is this a recommended method?

[@prakkari]

As a rule the labels are on the inside. This has a practical so you’ll be able to take the label off inside after the window is in place. It would be an unnecessary and frankly stupid effort to do this from the outside on a three or four story house after the fact. At least this is the practice where I come from. If there is an exception to this rule the panes are usually clearly labeled “OUT”.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Yeah, usually stating this face to the inside, however ive had a fair few units that the labels have been on the wrong side of even from the factory! i have a tester to tell exacly what im installing as itl be the installer that has to change the unit at great cost

[@richardmckrell4899]

I assume you made new sashes to enable double pane glass, however I don''t understand why you didn't use glazing putty on the outside. I'd recommend trying linseed oil putty and paint in the future and consider restoring the original sashes.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Hi Richard. yes new sashes for double glazing and the old ones are pretty much toast. I have machined DGU into old sashes before, there is a point where its not viable. Linseed oil putty shouldnt be used with DGU, you can get alternatives, or use a putty replacement product like dryseal to have a external putty type seal, but this method is by far the best ive used. looks like putty, great seal, no leaks and dead easy to replace units if you have to.

[@mergrew0110]

I have a foolproof method, I employ an expert………😅