I finally tried Bambulab printers..

[@OnceinaSixSide]

My friends! Drop a comment for the engagement god. Id love to hear your experiences with Bambulab printers, and if you havent yet tried them - will you? Also I forgot to mention that both of these machines are delightfully quiet! I also misremembered the detail about speed: it wasn't 30 minutes faster than the V400, it was 30 minutes LIKE the V400 😅

[@jeremyohara6513]

Cant by Petg from Bambu at the moment here in Australia, been like that for over a month, Keeps saying theres no filament but support cant tell me when or whats happening with the petg basics range. Only thing i have found with them is their stock level is very bad and always running out here in Aus.

[@enosunim]

Didn't they discontinued PETG Basic series? I thought now they will only sell PETG HF (High Flow) only.

[@HeroS4Ev3R]

I'am planning remplace my -old- ender 3v3 by a P1S and his AMS this year.

[@JonoBurch]

I started my FDM Journey with a Prusa Mini, bloody ripper of a printer but I got a Bambulab p1s with the ams and its just so good that my little printer that could was just collecting dust. Bambulabs is just crazy good, closest to plug and play I've ever experienced :D

[@memecentral5469]

Got mine recently and it has been a blast no issues yes after every print some filemeant gets stuck between purge wiper and nozzel but great quality plus ams is great I also just found about about the parts option in the app its a w also only the first layer always has elephants foot its a problem with the z offset but it is ok because it does not effect much

[@JMMC1005]

My god. Drops a screw - immediately starts drilling holes in brand new printer. Can't tell whether to laugh or cry.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

I like to start with a lighthearted laugh and end on the full body sobs, I recommend that.

[@JMMC1005]

@@OnceinaSixSide please donate your brain to science so that it may be studied.

[@mikekiske]

@@OnceinaSixSide Hi! Do you have any photos of the miniatures you've printed with the 0.2mm nozzles? Thanks for sharing!

[@OnceinaSixSide]

​@@mikekiske Next video! 😁

[@mikekiske]

@@OnceinaSixSide While you're at it, could you also show me how you assemble the two-part inlays? I'd really appreciate it! 😄

[@jonnylectitio279]

I bought a P1S about 11 months ago to print 40K terrain to run tournaments. I had minimal experience printing FDM when i bought it. Up to this point, I've printed around 30 entire tables of terrain. These things just work man.

[@SamuraiMujuru]

As someone who's looking to print more terrain with their P1S, what are some artists you recommend?

[@christofferorden8809]

glad to here, i am also looking at getting PIS for terrain purpose

[@Immolate62]

Just finished printing thirty trophies for a friend who is hosting a wargaming tournament, mostly on my P1S. It has 3,372 hours on it as I type this and I'm printing some dungeon blocks terrain on it. Unreal how reliable this printer is.

[@JonoBurch]

@@SamuraiMujuru I recommend Flatline City from Saucermen Studios, prints great and I found it good for 40k and great for Necromunda

[@Eins.1]

How many times did you replace the nozzle so far?

[@SOCMMOB]

I bought an X1C because I wanted the printing to be my hobby, not the printer itself. I’ve wasted way too much time trying to keep an Ender working consistently, and I’m done with that BS.

[@SmoothbassmanStudios]

Same here. They just work!! Sold my Ender a week after I got my P1S. 1000 prints later and it's still printing amazingly as long as I keep my filament dry.

[@WilliamMalcomson]

Me to I had a ender 5 plus and it was awful

[@SOCMMOB]

@@SmoothbassmanStudios love this thing. It’s been running non stop since I bought it and it just keeps churning out great prints.

[@Serenityindailylife]

I think the ender sold more Bambu printers than bambu did.

[@felixjohnson3874]

And your attributing that to the brand of printer rather than the over half a decade of technological advances why exactly?

[@JhustineProvido]

This guy.. drilling holes on a brand new printer. using metal scraper on Texture PEI plate. you're killing me here man.

[@zuppy2]

it's perfectly fine to use a metal scraper on a pei plate. you just have to be gentle you won't scratch it. it's much better than whatever plastic contraption you're using.

[@DirtyShirt1914]

Most printers these days, these included, have removable build plates. Remove it, flex it, no scraping necessary. I believe this is what he is getting at. You shouldn't need a scraper, you should use your brain and follow how these are designed to be used because it's way easier that way.​@@zuppy2

[@JhustineProvido]

@@zuppy2 u suck for using s metal scraper on a pei plate.

[@t0nkatsu]

Bambu literally sells metal scrapers

[@Gixer750pilot]

Savage

[@schmiddy8433]

These printers aren't just for beginners or less technically minded people. I am someone who goes through and adjusts almost every single variable on my prints to get exactly the result I want and I love how easy bambu lab printers are to work with. I almost never have issues or failed prints, I switch materials and spools constantly and the AMS (not the lite one, i dont have that) takes that headache completely out of the equation for me. The speed and print quality is superb and I just can't be happier with it. Your bases being weird like that may be elephant foot compensation. If you loaded a project from maker world and then put your bases into that project it could have printed with those variables. Make sure to start with a fresh project and check under quality > precision elephant foot compensation (XY distance) and then below that elephant foot compensation layers. That's my best guess, I leave it at 1 layer for 0.15mm. I've used tree supports with a different material interface and had no problem. again, could be a weird slicer profile and why I dont ever use other people's profiles because honestly most people don't know the first thing about making a proper print profile.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Absolutely! I love that they cater to everyone. Perfect for beginners but completely open so you can go as deep and as far as you want with them.

[@hecticaperture]

It feels like most people that call these beginner printers arent really using their printers to PRINT. But instead tinkering the printer is their hobby. And while there is absolutely wrong with that, a LOT of people do not 3d print to tinker with printers at all, and thats OK too. After years and years of "tinkering" with the likes of ender, now i have 10+ hours of work 6 days a week plus kids plus pets plus plus plus. Even if i wanted to just tiker with the printer i legitimately do not have time. And with me selling between 25-50 pcs a week, i just need the printer to print at an appliance level. And for the price absolutely no other company gets even close. Spending the money on a Ender 3 V3 vs a Bambu A1 its absolutely a no brainer for those people that just want to PRINT.

[@tmjmccormack]

⁠@@hecticapertureI’m not sure, after reading this twice, which printer you prefer…ender or Bambu for your purpose

[@walterrldias]

I have lots of problems downloading projects from makerworld, when all I want is just the geometry. now I have lots of print profiles and cannot get rid of them. do you know a good tutorial I can follow to help me avoid this? I also dont know how to delete old profiles... its annoying. can you help?

[@johnverkler3962]

​@tmjmccormack Hi. He just said he has no time to tinker with the machine. Ender machines seem like a machine you have to constantly adjust. So. The no-brainer is the Bambu Labs choice. Do you "understand now"? Oh, in case you don't know. I read that, after you select your project, you have to log into Bambu Lab Cloud to send the project to the printer. Doing that, seems like they're spying on what you're doing.

[@DripJhin]

‘So anyway, i started drilling.’

[@citizenrico42]

I got my A1 Mini 48 Hours ago and i have been loving every second of it since. My .2 nozzle arrived today along with some of the matte filament. Its about to get real.

[@JohnBubriski]

Post-usage videos are generally better IMO because you (or whoever) realize the stupid things that they messed up during setup, like you mentioned with the filament wiper thing. I'd love to see specifically what you like the print with FDM printers vs resin. Personally I've done a lot of tiles/terrain with my FDM, and I reserve my resin printer for minis.

[@trulsdirio]

I got an A1 Mini and the thing just prints. It is my first printer and I waited for more than five years to get one, since I always was intrigued by the idea of solving small issues with quick designs and prints, but never wanted trouble shooting a printer to be my new hobby. I have not had to manually change anything on the printer so far and it has printed great results every time I used it! All that for 200€ in the anniversary sale. I am impressed. Obviously I love the philosophy behind Prusa, but they are so far out of reach for me that I never considered them.

[@kaasmeester5903]

Bambu Labs are adding some good features and innovations to the market, but their price is definitely the biggest selling point. I own a Prusa Mk4 myself, but I've worked with a P1S (and A1 Mini + AMS) at work. I'd put these machines on the same level in terms of ease of use, reliability, and quality of the resulting prints. I went with Prusa because I too like their philosophy, I like the fact that the machine is easy to maintain (though it hasn't needed any replacements or adjustments so far), and I want to support Made in Europe. But for those starting in the hobby, Bambu is an excellent choice and far more affordable. I'm just hoping for an affordable enclosed Core XY printer from Prusa one day.

[@razalom66]

Not sure if anyone has commented but with supports you can set it up in the slicer to only use the support filament for the last couple of layers so it massively reduces the time to print something as it doesnt have to keep changing the filament for every layer

[@ajman66]

Yes I use PLA and Petg ether way around as a interface layer with zero gap for my supports.

[@Energetic_Ballistic_Solutions]

You can cut down on the multi material time for support by making the tree support the exact same as the material you are printing in, ect for the last few layers that touch the actual part there is a setting in bambu that will do this for you. Also, purge your poop into your infill.

[@potaterjim]

How do you get it to use the poop on the infill? Is that a setting in the slicer?

[@zakubryan]

I would also like to know

[@turnipslop3822]

I really like this format! It feels a lot more focused and you've already identified the issues and strengths. I find I tune out when you're figuring out the fixes, though I can see that if I bought the printer it might be useful. Hope it isn't a tonne more editing but this seems like a big step up imo. Great vid and review

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Awesome, thanks for the feedback!

[@anthonyr8272]

Bambu Lab has a filament section labeled as support and it tells you what it would be used to support one of them is PVA it supports PLA and PETG and it dissolves in water

[@williecat316]

I rarely use the AMS for multi color prints. I like having my favorite filaments available without fussing. The other usage is the automatic rollover. Low filament? No worries, just throw a second spool on, and the AMS kicks over to it when it runs through the first one. No more having partial rolls everywhere, or having to watch the status of the spool.

[@tomaszkarwik6357]

I don't even care about rollover all that much, I just like the ability to choose which material I will be printing with while I am at work/school

[@alexo1278]

4:40 you literally have a 3d printing channel, and instead of 3d printing a piece you literally DRILL and use ZIP TIES FOR A BAMBULAB¿¿

[@quantumperplexity]

I have a Bambu P1P that has been incredible for printing PLA, Silk PLA, and PETG. I've printed 100's of models, many are ones that I created in Tinkercad during the past year. It's been printing nearly 24/7 for that whole time! The elementary school I've printed them for is very grateful. I had no 3D printing experience when I got this printer. I had it working after a brief assembly. The online docs are great and the online community has been very helpful.

[@tro7e]

For the printed base angle problem - it looks like for the first 10 layers it's printing faster (because of solid bottom) and then it slows down (hits the layer time limit), but still does not manage to cool the material. Set maximum flowrate under filament parameters to 10-15 mm3/s and see if it helps. If it does - or you need bring down printing speed until flowrate becomes more uniform (check under Preview window and select Flowrate instead of Line type).

[@johnmalin1676]

I have to say, i have had the A1 for about 6 weeks now, and I'm a beginner to 3D printing. I'm impressed, it's practically idiot proof to set up and the procedure is so easy. I will say though, it's worth printing the gantry AMS holder, its on the Makerworld. It is a Bambu Lab upload. They even supply the screws in the Kit they sent you. I found it doesn't impede quality and i haven't noticed any real increase in vibrations. If you want to reduce the footprint, i highly recommend you print this 👍👍

[@aaronwilsontd]

The angle issue you’re having for the bases is the infill pulling inward after it cools down and it’s shrinking.

[@Martin-ji7vq]

any idea what to do about it? I have the same trouble when printing plant pots. Cheers!

[@Xenocide78]

​@@Martin-ji7vqYou could print the base solid

[@justpainting]

Picked up the Carbon X1 this year with the AMS. I was printing a plate of terrain yesterday, was a 21 hour print. I ran out of filament on the last two layers. Thank digital jesus for run out detection. I plopped in a new roll of filament, and boom finished the last 20 minutes of printing fine.

[@Immolate62]

With AMS you can load up two to four slots with the same color/type and it will automatically go from one spool to the next. Just go to the device tab and click the little avengers icon. For the AMS, changing filaments is (by necessity) child's play. I'm doing a 20 hour print and have three spools same color PETG loaded up.

[@McFlyOrPie]

Just another comment for an FYI. The flat part on the back of the nozzles that touch the little heater block and sensor. As you get oils from your fingerprints, you'll see a little rectangular rust spot. Try keeping that as clean as possible to make sure your temperatures stay good. There are people that have had massive blobs of death and their A1 gets ruined. I have a feeling that could be part of the problem. It doesn't know what the temperature is and it gets way too hot. I swapped my nozzles all the time and tend to just wipe it down with some alcohol.

[@mandyj5222]

I have the A1, A1 mini and the P1S. All three are solid. I too have the V400, but it's relegated to the basement where it gets little love these days... Trying to print with petg broke my spirit before I started printing from a dryer directly. Now it's so fresh and clean on my Bambu printers. I started my collection with the mini combo and I was blown away! Hooked for good. They just work. No tuning, no worries. I want to hit print and walk away. Thanks for your video. I had a user error issue putting my purge wiper on my A1, I didn't push the head over and I guess I trapped the print head and it would not home. I reached out to Bambu, sent them a video and was so pissed. Then I actually looked at assembly instructions online... 😅 that was a wasted day and a half...

[@PeriodPuddle]

flsun sucks! have had 3 of there printers and were all nightmares

[@samtheengineer]

I have had my A1 mini for about 2 months now, the tool headboard quit working and they sent me a free replacement one within days. I am very surprised by well it works. The speed and their customer service

[@KirillFrolov77]

The printer and filament profile actually come from Prusa. Bamboo slicer is a derivative work from Prosa slicer. The ptfe tube from the spool to the head is there to avoid dudden sharp pulls when the head moves, which can lead to filament entanglement.

[@ThePhoEater]

Sending H8 for drilling through the bambulab piece without looking for the missing piece on the floor.

[@DarrenBladez-p5p]

It's not your printer so why care?

[@shoegum7362]

Have you ever tried to find a screw after it falling on the floor. Its near impossible

[@ThePhoEater]

@@shoegum7362 who hasn’t. We all think that it might’ve gone through a portal to another universe but I refuse to believe it and look for it until I find it.

[@chaizon3053]

@@DarrenBladez-p5p Your friend's dog gets ran over. Its not your dog so why care?

[@WHAT_1400]

@@chaizon3053 because i did it

[@hotfix7387]

There is a Bambu Lab printed mod to put the AMS Lite on top of the A1 if you are concerned about space. You will want to rerun calibration when you are done. Also there is an unsupported hack to the AMS Lite to print TPU. Someone figured out how to get it do 4 TPU colors to print for a multicolor print. For the PETG support print, did you make sure it was dried out before use? The stringing can get bad the wetter it gets

[@briandonovan9091]

Do you have a source or search term to find the "unsupported hack to the AMS Lite to print TPU. Someone figured out how to get it do 4 TPU colors to print for a multicolor print." That's what I need and why I have NOT purchased a Bamboo because it couldn't do it.

[@hotfix7387]

​@@briandonovan9091I can't post a link in here, but if you search for "How to Print TPU with the Bambu Lab AMS (Mod)" you can find the video of someone who modified their non-Lite AMS to do it and the risks therein. I'm looking for the AMS Lite video I saw and can't find it. You can search for the mod named "AMS Lite TPU Mod" and that will hopefully get you the rest of the way there. Good luck and remember you could permanently mess up your AMS doing this

[@Sparkrdom]

I too would like to know

[@johntetreault]

The PETG support interface layer absolutely works with tree supports... It's just the interface contact patch is so small you don't really see it, but I've used it, and it works, you can watch it change filament to PETG when it prints for the support interface.

[@franklon1878]

Bought an A1 mini 2 weeks ago. After 30 mins I was printing stuff like there was no tomorrow. Zero tweaks, just click and print. You can even check how your print is going remotely from your mobile phone as it’s got an integrated camera pointing at the model. Incredible speed and accuracy. Click and print. This is a marvel of technology and you will just throw your old printer away without even thinking about it.

[@toxichero1]

ill say. as someone that was/is part of the croud that wants to fiddel with there printers and make them better, its a breath of fresh air to have one that just.. works every single time i send a print. it has issues whenever i dont like wash the print bed or i ask it to do to much but im leaving my tinkering to my modded ender 3 and my p1s is for when things need to get done

[@Sennakools]

i think the best way to describe the bambulab environment is that it really just, works.

[@McFlyOrPie]

18:30 with big flat parts on the A1, the edges tend to peel up off of the plate. Just enough to look a bit wonky. Any big round or square parts, I use a healthy dose of glue stick, then I take paper towel, soak it in IPA, and spread the glue stick around nice and even. But that is after I make sure that I either use a brim or the mouse ears, I do use Orca slicer not Bamboo slicer. I don't remember if mouse ears are on bamboo slicer. Mouse ears essentially are just tiny brims that only go on like very sharp corners to keep them from rising off the bed. Also maybe bump up your bed temperature another 5°. And always have a deeper tool to get the little edges off. 🥂 Also, also, try adjusting your print temperatures. If the brim and the glue stick don't help. I tend to run my first layer cooler which kind of helps with oozing on the first layer too. But by thought, process is if it doesn't have to cool down as much, it might not warp as much. And it's strange that it's just such a slight amount of warping.

[@PolycultureArt]

Good tips. I am getting curling edges on large flat prints.. it’s like the bed isn’t heated evenly at the edges.. I have tried brims (couldn’t find mouse ears in Bambu studio :( only in p slicer

[@metallifta]

Print the AMS top mount, comes with the top mount and rear stabiliser parts, and Bambu even give you the screws for those in the kit as well!

[@mondotv4216]

Bambulabs have published a bracket for the AMS which allows you to top mount it for a smaller footprint. It includes wedges to keep the printer stable and an adapter so there os still somewhere to put a spare spool that isn't part of the AMS.

[@RoseKindred]

Glad the points came through for you. Funny how they then noticed OIASS afterward, huh? I respect how their systems are a premium and you get what you expect you should get. Pretty much plug-and-play instead of the engineering side falling onto us. I would like to see what happens if they enter the Resin side of printing. They do still have major downsides, specifically, these should not be used in businesses that need NDAs or higher. But, for the majority of us, they are perfect.

[@kind3r_sol]

There is LAN only mode you know ...

[@RoseKindred]

@@kind3r_sol Yes, but from others who had gotten inside, they also stored the previous jobs and details. Even after a full reset, once it eventually connected the it was sent with the current request. This is why I said for NDAs and up it is a risk and can land you in jail. Additionally, they get the Gcode as well for each print, the items could be remade by someone else. I don't think that would happen but it is theoretically possible. But, as I said, for most of us, this would not apply.

[@No0o0o0o0o0]

@@RoseKindred I challenge your assertion. Your printer does NOT auto upload its print info/log or anything like that in lan mode or after a factory reset. Please point me to your sources I have wireshark and a router monitoring traffic and nothing of what you are saying is true. SD card only is an option Lan only mode does not leak data or even attempt to look for the net. Vlan works fine sending files via FTP works fine Cloud(obvious) connects to the cloud. but the other options are viable too but log data does NOT auto upload. Please see X1+ team for more info as they have unfettered access to the linux OS for a long time and none of what you are saying was found. The ONLY time a log file is uploaded, optionally, is with a trouble ticket. Source Owned an X1C for 2 years.

[@ajman66]

We use the Lan only mode at work

[@Legal-Ade]

I’ve not had good success printing mini figures, but have had amazing results printing vehicles. I printed two leman russes from station forge and they look incredible. I use 2mm nozzle at .06mm height. You need to be a bit creative with slicing and placement but holy crap they look awesome! And way more durable than resin prints. I can drop them off the table and barely have any damage to show for it.

[@mikewhite2991]

Buy the Bambu support material for pla. When you use petg the nozzle has to heat up to petg temp then cool down to pla temp. Bambu pla support material heats at the same temp but doesn't stick to the pla, and you're only paying for the interface layers when it comes to the support material. I use it and it works great for me m

[@irishology]

Hey mate. Now you have the scraper i was talking about for removing models from resin build plates the problem is you put the push block (the bit you had to reprint) on the wrong side and back to front.

[@peter_isthewolf]

I'm glad somebody noticed 😁

[@stavencapp]

23:13 as for the AMS taking up space, bambu provide you with files for a top mount bracket sytem that you print yourself so that the AMS mounts to the top of the printer so it only takes up vertical space. This along with alot of the other accessories, like the scraper, they provide you with the blade for it, but you have to print the handle yourself, I LOVE THIS. If they were to release an injection molded top mount bracket for the AMS, it would probably cost 60 or 70 bucks.

[@loqkLoqkson]

brilliant thanks! I've got an adventurer 4, that I bought shortly before the bamboo came out, just as the anker make came out, and skipped the anker make due to the old style nozzle. seeing you change the nozzle means I can happily buy a bamboo printer when the adventurer dies the adventurer has many problems that I seem to have finally fixed due to wear in, and rolling back to a functional firmware. but it's pretty reliable once you've worked out the kinks, but the bamboo is so much better.

[@gerriti]

24:56 ive noticed that when using the option to select a specific support interface filament, it doesnt actually do the filament swap if the contact patch is too small, or too fat apart. Under advanced support options, change Top Z Distance and Top Interface Spacing to 0, and it should actually work.

[@freckhard]

Great video! Ok I have noticed that it is most likely not my fault to assemble the scraper like you did the first time as well! Here comes the fun news: you have to assemble it UPSIDE DOWN! Why on earth, I don't know, maybe that's a chinese thing? But if you look really carefully at the project images you can see the ramp where you assume your thumb goes that it is actually the bottom for the blade, so it can sail even more shallow over the plates! The scraper bumper is not to protect your thumb, but to actually push against it while still being protected 😀So folks, if you look at 11:03 you have to turn the bumper around by 180° and then assemble it from the bottom against the scraper. So you can see those two black screws and the sharpness of the blade from the top. Funny it happened to you as well!

[@MrZylix-6]

I recently got into the hobby with a discounted Ender 3 V1, and I’ve fallen FAR down the rabbit hole. I’m glad to see products like this that encourage people to explore and experiment with mix-n-match fun. 3D printing is neat as a tool and a hobby and the community around it rocks! 😃 Also when you mentioned HeyGears and how restrictive they are I was stunned, monopolizing a hobby that’s basically *all about* openness and sharing stuff is wild

[@adamsvensson2035]

Wow! I haven’t really been that interested in getting a Bambulab printer until after this video. The software integrations with things like print-profiles are really interesting!

[@jonrost5574]

I plan to ask my wife for one this Christmas. Really looking forward to printing some miniatures for my wargaming. I am not really worried about print times since it takes me like a week just to paint 4 or 5 miniatures. Looks like the .2mm nozzle is the way to go for smaller items in finer detail.

[@6mtzhp55]

It works really well with the 0.2mm nozzle. You won't get too far with the 0.4mm included which is best for general use. I got an aftermarket 0.2mm nozzle off Amazon and it works perfectly, the A1 mini and full size both have a quick release for the nozzle to swap, much easier than on the X1 Carbon which I also have and bought first.

[@Curufinwex]

You should really use the scraper only when you cant get some small fragments off. Otherwise your PEI plate is not gonna last long. For easy removal just take off the plate and flex it back and forth, once it has cooled down a bit.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Yeah I know ☺️ I just wanted to get some shots using it!

[@aeonjoey3d]

The scraper really is more of a crowbar lol, to get under the edge and then fulcrum lever it up to lift the part, and help clean stuck on bits off, but it’s also why the blade isn’t super sharp; but I’d recommend printing a plastic scraper for 99% of scraping.

[@Immolate62]

The best thing for prying up parts without chewing up your bed is a high-quality flat blade for an oscillating multi tool. Cheap ones will work too, but you have to take the time to file and sand of any burr. You want them to be flat and sharp, but not sharp enough to dig, and will wide-radiused corners.

[@AfraDuvall]

I have one Bambu P1s and one FLSun S1, When I need to print complex multi-color models, I fire up my P1S. When I'm printing larger models like helmets, I usually use the S1. I absolutely love them .

[@nitrobear]

You can replace part of the start and finish G code using one of the templates that's available in the slicer. It significantly reduces the amount of time it spends doing checks and also produces less waste (afaik?).

[@caegear]

You can indeed skip all the pre printing calibrations and just keep Bed levelling, but that entails changing startup GCodes. BambuLab probably will not offer support on errors if you do this, but I do it to mitigate that awful rumbling calibration thingy when I print late (it actually can be felt and heard throughout the house).

[@elvenprints]

Phew, I got one a few weeks back and even had to pull fewer screws! So they improved it so far. One day you just pull it out of the box and turn it on. They know what the average user wants, almost in a scary way. 😀

[@shaungrobler3607]

Like how you simply send that drill through a new printer. I googled just for that and came across this gem

[@aeonjoey3d]

Ha! I love that you bought the printer user MakerWorld points. I bought the X1C and now I’m an addict on MakerWorld, Ive gotten two AMS’, and I haven’t paid for filament in 6 months, and have almost 1,900 hours on my printer in that time. I love the points and I hope they don’t go away

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Fuck yeah that's great!

[@crooker2]

I just bought an A1/ams combo and am patiently waiting for it to arrive. I do wish it had a direct drive rather than a Bowden tube system, but the overwhelmingly positive reviews of this printer make me not care about that issue too much. Can't wait to try it out.

[@bmdoughe]

The change in angle on the bases is a byproduct of the base going from the solid top to the hollow bottom. Basically the plastic is going to suffer from more contraction on the layers where there is more physical plastic. Google "benchy hull line" if you want to go further down that rabbit hole - but it's an enigma no one has figured out how to mitigate 100%.

[@EdwardMurray06]

I just purchased a P1S last night. I can’t wait till it arrives.

[@chuukoart3869]

i got an a1 mini as my first fdm printer a few weeks ago, i had a resin printer as my first. I was immediatly underwealmed by the printer because it would fail to calibrate and the printer wouldn't work, so I had to reach out to customer support which is never fun, first message from them was asking if they tried the usual stuff you'd get from googling this problem. their second message to me was that they where sending me a new extruder unit, almost no hassle with the customer support, immediately shipped out an extruder unit after confirming the problem, every since I've gotten the new unity the printer has been working amazingly, its a really good first fdm printer

[@Rayuaz]

I'm not sure about the A1 AMS, but I have a P1S and the AMS is amazing because it's a dry box and it makes loading and switching filaments between prints sooooooo much easier. And it's also great because if one spool runs out of filament, it can load another spool, so you never get failed prints because of running out of filament

[@Immolate62]

AMS Lite will switch spools as well, plus it handles cardboard spools with grace. I like it a little better than the original AMS. The way I go through filament, nothing last long enough to get wet, except all those leftovers that accumulate. But now with the Sunlu four slot drier, it's all good.

[@dwangs465]

My mrs and the kids treated me to a a1 for fathers day i hadnt told them i also ordered one for my mrs so we have two on the go now and loving them for toys for the kids 40k terrain and stuff for the house. Ive tried tons of filements best ive found is esun pla +

[@Elkarlo77]

My Bambu Lab is my sixth 3D Printer, i clocked around 1100 hours in 7 month. Which is about twice as much as i clocked in the Time on my others printers. Totally i am around 6000-7000 hours. I have 3 DIY Kit printers and all my printers were upgraded to Autobed Level. My X1E takes around 5 minutes and with minimal Settings + Autobedlevel to start. Thing is: My other printers needed around 2-3 Minutes for Autobedlevel as well, especially my Tronxy-A5S-400 takes longer then my X1E. They all have moving beds and i think thats the difference, all Beds which move needs to be calibrated from time to time, fixed bed printers like a Voron 2.4 or a Delta don't need it. Personally i have #3 just dissambled and i am rebuilding it as an A1 Type Bed-Pusher: all Linear Rails with a Core XZ mechanism and i am looking to replace my slow Core XY with an Voron 2.4 style but i want to keep the 400x400x400mm capability. I simply don't print on it because it's to slow. To increase the Printspeed: The Flowrate is atm the weakest point, there are Upgrade Options for the X1/P1 series like the ObXidian Hotends that drops the print times again, as Bambu Labs only have an Vulcan Style Nozzle, which is still considered a speed Nozzle. For the A1 there is a CHT Clone on Temu, which may double the extrusion but most likely increase it by 50%. TL;DR: The Speed of the Bambu Labs printers is good and the Autolevel delay normal for an Bedmoving Printer.

[@officer_baitlyn]

most of the praise around the 9minute mark is prusa slicer praise tbh the warnings are part of PS and the presets look like the ones in PS aswell

[@jaredkrivin6204]

You can definitely disable that 5 or however many minute period of time when it's starting up, but you'll likely have to add it to the gcode, i currently have a custom hot-end profile that skips at least 2/4 things it does (like scraping the nozzle on the bed)

[@jerramebutler8596]

I bought to a1 mini after buying a p1p and I can definitely recommend the a1 mini as a starter AND if you're wanting to do multi color prints I like the AMS lite more than the AMS personally. However, don't knock uniformation! I just got the GW Two and it's been a game changer for printing!

[@lego_minifig]

I have not been able to really print with my ender 3 for the past two years after a weird glitch was introduced that caused the motors to over extend when printing something that is too large on the front and back axis. I spent two full days trouble shooting before I called quits and gave up. Never had time to go back to troubleshoot between work and other hobbies. Sure I have two SLA printers that I use occasionally, but since resin is nasty stuff to work with and only really good for fine detail work and not functional prints I don’t use them all that often. I was craving to get back into designing custom storage solutions with a reliable printer again, so I pulled the trigger on a microcenter deal that included the AMS for only $20 more than the going cost of the printer alone and on sale on amazon. I have to say, coming from the ender 3 pro, I was blown away by the speed and ease of use. Its 150% faster at printing and the app and slicer have been so nice for printing remotely. I have even used the built in camera to knock prints off the build plate while on lunch break at work so I could start the next print. The AMS has been fantastic for using up my old spools of filament. When one spool ran out it switched to the same color of filament and continued on without any baby sitting. It has also detected tangles in an old spool and paused the print accordingly before sending me a notification to check on it. It has been absolutely painless and I now understand the appeal of going with a more expensive bambu. I still love my ender 3. I plan on repairing it and finishing all the upgrades I was working on before my SKR mini blew up and sent me down a troubleshooting rabbithole. I have an octopi and a filament runout sensor on standby, but my main board is now that I would need to configure merlin from scratch which sounds like two whole days learning how to do that again. I love that I CAN do all this and customize it as I see fit, but it is certainly also exhausting. In the future, I will only be recommending bambu lab printers for anyone nontechnical.

[@mendelian8768]

I used cura for vase mode prints. BambuLab and Orca still have a bug in vase mode that creates artifacts / seam otherwise it is a nice slicer. I don't know why they don't offer a cura profile by themselves.

[@BitzboxTV]

Recently ordered an A1 and looking forward to trying it out. This is the best video I've watched regarding this printer. Super useful

[@meadmaker4525]

I love the insane detail you can achieve with SLA printing, but the mess, expensive resin, protective gear required, hazmat for the wash station (and eventual disposal somewhere), curing, and then finally being able to touch the thing...maybe still with gloves...just puts me off. FDM has it's own quirks, to be sure, but nothing like SLA, and it seems more flexible overall. You just lose the mind-blowing detail that comes with SLA. From what I can see, the current line of Bambu FDM printers are pretty much the cream of the FDM crop. An X1C with the top-mounted AMS is probably all you'd ever want or need, and from what I've seen in reviews, the thing just works.

[@reyalPRON]

if you liked that little bedslinger.. wait until you get ur hands on a x1c with an ams. then you discover filaments that dissovle easy that you can use for supports. oh the joy of never picking off supports anymore, and the "exotic" filaments that suddenly is possible with a chamber that can do 50c are so cool!

[@bassiebe]

I just love the little shots of your bunny 😍

[@RJin3D]

My assumption with the base being weird is a combination of warping and lack of infill at the bottom ring component compared to the solid base that sits above it. There is probably different speeds when printing both sections too. Check out the speed and the flow views when in print preview in bambu studio. When there is a stark change of speed/flow between layers you'll see issues like this as well as a change of the look of the filament from matt to glossy. So you can try to print with supports/brims which can help prevent warping and/or slow down the print so all the layers take roughly the same amount of time to print.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

I'll look into it, thanks for taking the time!

[@SomewhatAbnormal]

Good god sir! I snarfed my coffee when you brought out the drill! Anyway, I’ve found that the metal scraper can be harsh and I’ve only ever used it one time with my X1 Carbon. However, it’s a genius tool for removing resin prints from a plate as it has a very sharp edge. Regarding your comments about giving the printer to family members… I’ve always looked at these devices as just another tool. If it were a hammer, I wouldn’t care about the specific mechanics of the hammer - head weight, handle length, etc. I would simply want to know, “will the hammer pound in the nail?” This is how I feel about 3D printing at this point. I don’t want to know how every part functions. I don’t want to spend time fretting about my cooling fan, how it’s affecting the print, and whether it could be improved with some mod. What I want to do is use the tool and just know that it works. Bambulab has hit on something which other manufacturers are only now beginning to understand, which is that MOST people don’t want to build their tool - they just want to use the tool.

[@jamesgodwin6484]

Bambu Labs are interesting. Your right they make printers for people who want a seamless experience with minimal problems in a way that so far there not ripping you off. However they also work for people who HAVE fought with 3d printers and just want it to work. I love my Neptune 4 its had problems not massive ones but still at times ive fought with it. Im very happy to have a p1s now and the AMS as well its amazing.

[@IgnusFast]

You did the same thing I think a lot of us have done - you put the screws in the scraper wrong. They go in from the blade side, with the thumb grip on the plastic side.

[@SveinOveAas]

I've put together four of the things, and I make the same mistake every single dang time.

[@graxxor]

I really, really love your podcast style of video！ Oh, and thank all the lords we created for the fact that there is NO BGM!!! ❤ So do you keep your filaments on a shelf? What about picking up moisture?

[@Gixie-R]

After years of stress filled printing with Other well known brands of fdm, I brought a A1. It was well worth it. From the WTF!!! as it 1st sets up, to the ease of slicing and sending the file to get printing without all the stress and worry of the SD cards and walking up and down stairs to the print room all day as it has a cam built in. Thats proper priceless. Even has a little LED light to brighten the shot at night. I will be buying another. They do say not to be used in a enclosure because the control boards got no assisted cooling, Well, i tinkercaded a wrap around cooler duct with a 120mm fan filling the two vents with cool air from below the enclosure, Its running perfectly printing ABS and Carbon with a HD nozzle. The Z uprights get warm though so i may extend the cooling.

[@Phantombit]

Bambu has always been a great company for entry level tech meets art products, I remember distinctly the stylus pads for digital art, back when I was in grade school.

[@crrc4s]

I have a P1S and an X1C and absolutely love them. I have the AMS systems for both and two of them on my X1C. It’s awesome having backup filaments of multi color printing.

[@Critical_Zero]

The Base issue looks like bed adhesion...the edges very slightly curl up and then cause the filament to "squish" differently for a few layers. Finger oils on PEI can cause this. Also too much part cooling can also cause this. Also having a draft hit the bed can cause it....Glue stick is a universal fix for this but its messy, if you don't mind post processing a brim in the slicer works. Had this issue with PLA on a few printers. Use a ruler to see if you layer touching the bed has some curvature.

[@Immolate62]

I've printed many hundreds of bases in PLA and PETG and never have a problem with elephant's foot using the stock profile. It's only when I print an item with a large bottom layer that I get peel up. Nice wide brim usually fixes it.

[@UncleJessy]

fantastic video and loved the recap look at your experience with the two bambu printers. Killing it mate. Fantastic long format chill video

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Cheers man! 🍻

[@TheGamingscrubffsinthechat]

I've been looking for a upgrade from my ender 3 I've hated how many times it broke and how i didn't understand what it did so i might get the bamboo labs for the handholding

[@shadeypotion]

Thank you so much for this review and the other 2 vids. Bought the A1 mini as my fist 3d printer after watching this and it has been a breeze. Such a good introduction to 3d printing.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Awesome! Happy printing 🤘

[@RannekoPlays]

Minor nitpick: It isn't a purge tower, it's a prime tower. The poops are generated by purging. The prime tower is used to get the filament flowing smoothly after the material swap.

[@jonatanrullman]

Funny. I would say exactly opposite. You prime the nozzle and then you purge any remnants of old colour.

[@Slurgical_3D_Terrain_Channel]

I do all my terrain in draft mode 5% infill and the print quality is out of this world and I have been around the block with 3D printers. My workflow has greatly improve with my designs because of the printer. I take more chances and push the envelope because of how fast it prints.

[@drewbeirn7704]

So where the AMS could save you time is when printing multiples of the same item and you want it colored. Instead of painting each later you can paint in the slicer with 4 colors and do an entire build plate. Doing more of the same prints reduces the overall cost of the purging across more parts. Also the longer time is then justified on volume of parts since you don't have to paint. The added time of multiple parts is very low since swapping fillimet is the time suck not print time. Another trick is attempting to group layers as much as possible to reduce fillimet swaps.

[@conorstewart2214]

I have the X1C and the AMS is just so convenient, just have your most used filaments already in it and select it in the slicer without needing to change filament. The X and P series AMS is much more compact though since you can just sit it on top. I mainly print practical models and drone or robot parts but multi material printing has its uses. I have printed polycarbonate (PC) combined with some sections printed in a polycarbonate blended with PTFE (PC-PTFE) which has great wear resistance and low friction and is self lubricating but it is expensive, so most of the part is normal PC and the PC-PTFE is only where it is needed. If the AMS worked with flexibles like TPU it would be much more useful though. I have also made electronics enclosures and panels using different colours of PETG, including transparent. I have used a base colour for the part, another colour for text or diagrams on the surface and then transparent to have basically little windows for indicator LEDs to shine through.

[@incubatork]

Careful with the spatula, the blades are far too sharp and will dig a lump out of your textured bed plate. Years ago I started with the infamous Anet A8 and spent a couple of years upgrading and changing almost every part other than the power cable to try and get a decent part for whatever needed fixed at the time and I ended up getting burnt out. I just recently got the P1S and had to printed the first print twice, just to believe how good it was and not just a fluke straight out of the box. What have all the other companies been doing for all these years when a newbie manufacturer can make and deliver not just 1 amazing printer but every one in the line up. Some people baulk at the price but if you take a normal every day printer say an ender 3, spend more money on upgrades, things they don't have and reprints just to get a decent print there is not much of a difference in what you spend in the long run, and its all done fore you right out of the box. I'm sure even Prusa are shaking in their boots and with emptier pockets since these guys came along. Its just what the industry needed, a bloody good shakeup.

[@Andries.B]

Want to buy my first printer. Do you recommend the A1 mini or the ender v3 se ? I could save up to buy the A1 but as my first printer i dont know its kinda smart to spend already a big amount off money to maybe use it for 6months and than leave it on my desk 😂

[@Rob_65]

The reason for having to bypass the AMS for something like TPU is the fact that this material is/may be to flexible to reliably load. Even on my Prusa XL I do bypass the PTFE tube for TPU because it is just too much effort to push the TPU through the tube. I think the reason you cannot do only the interface layers with PETG with tree support is due to the fact that PETG and PLA don't stick together. I found that I can almost not print a floating PLA section on top of the PETG support. Overhangs (even horizontal ones) do work but as soon as I have a floating PLA piece on top of PETG support, the PLA just slides off. Same goes for PETG on top of PLA so I think that is the reason for not supporting the interface layer only option on tree supports. Maybe the special soluble support materials do not have this problem and maybe there are special options in the slicer to enable this. I don't have a Bambu printer (but am quite happy with the Prusa XL)

[@OnceinaSixSide]

I'm so tempted to buy a Prusa XL after this Bambu experience, because I want to try the multi print head thing so badly but my god te cost 😰

[@Rob_65]

​@@OnceinaSixSide and I am so tempted to go for the Bambu experience. While multiple print heads seems to be the ultimate solution for some multi material prints, multiple print heads do come with their own problems

[@madadric]

Glad to see you check out the A1 & mini! I originally bouth an A1 that i had to send back due to the heat bed recall. (which was a blessing in the end because it meant with the reimbursement from bambu and a sale i ended getting the updated A1 combo for the same price I originally paid for the A1) I've been getting pretty nice results printing using the .2 nozzle for some figues and minis, although i have to print hotter and slower with off-brand PLA. I even used the AMS lite and printed a bunch of custom dice with the .2 nozzle with color coding for successes, failures, and crits, and keychains with a QR code that goes to my union's join page. When doing different material for supports, you can getaway with only printing the interface layers in the PETG which might save in time - not sure if that will make the prints more reliable though. For the weird angles on your bases, could it be layer squish on the earlier layers? I'm not sure if this might be related to choosing smooth PEI plate in your slicer instead of textured PEI? You could try printing some calibration parts to see if you can reproduce the error.

[@ltGargoyle]

i am looking into a replacement fdm printer since the tronxy sucks. this was a helpful review. thank you.

[@TorpisoulYT]

So what does the extra money for the A1 get you over the A1 Mini, aside from the 4 spool feed?

[@JackPinesBlacksmithing]

The slow startup is a cost I don't mind to have it auto-calibrate to ensure perfect prints nearly everytime I use the printer, with the exception being if the filament is challenging to work with, like TPU.

[@Jnevgaming]

3 months using my mini I just realized I had that scraper blade sitting on my desk thanks to you and I think I used those screws for the spool holder bc I have a bag with two screws that says spool holder 😂💀 live and learn thanks

[@JasonBlack66]

bet you wished you waited for the Black Friday Sale? You could have got the P1s with AMS for only a little more than the A1 AMS

[@AlexDenton0451]

There's some nice advantages to the A1, the quick Hotend change is so damn nice man.

[@Silvergum]

The open nature of the ecosystem is a massive W

[@LB_adventurer]

thanks for sharing your impressions on this, been thinking about buying a 3d printer for awhile and lately i'm starting to lean towards Bambulab and FDM

[@FrazzledDadsMinis]

Great video! I was so exited to get my P1S--as you said, Bambu holds one's hand the entire way. I was able to jump right in to FDM due to Bambu's ease of use. Great company!

[@Trillineatus]

As a p1s owner with AMS. I think my major issue with is the print time when having different colors in all sorts of layers. I think they need to put out a pro model with 4 extruder heads that are loaded with the colors you need, so it doesnt need to switch it's filament everytime and take up so much time. The p1s is a beauty otherwise.

[@designedbyfil]

What a pleasure it was to watch this video, awesome work dude!

[@ganeshakalburgi2003]

8:22 What software do you have to get the preview of the stl ?

[@randallthomas5207]

@@ganeshakalburgi2003 Bambu Slicer, free on their website. I think the phone apps might also let you see and modify the STL files. And, there is a preview option in the MakerSpace.

[@peggle09]

I love my X1C, I am getting a Mini A1 for minis and my smaller .2 nozzle prints.