One-Of-A-Kind Tapering Jig

Needed to cut a few last-minute tapers for my next build so I designed this jig. The result was this very simple and low hardware taper cutting table saw sled.
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Disclaimer.
All of the videos on this channel are intended for entertainment purposes only.
Should you choose to make or do anything as depicted on this channel you would do so at your own risk.
Woodworking and the use of power tools can be extremely dangerous.
The equipment and methods I use may not work for you as it does for me and by no means do I suggest that my methods of working are correct.
Therefore you should always use your equipment and power tools as instructed by the owner's manual supplied by the manufacturer.
Always use protective gear where applicable and never attempt something you are not comfortable doing.
Your shop safety is YOUR responsibility, so therefore I accept NO responsibility or liability for any injuries or accidents you may have if you attempt to do the things that I do.
Please, stay safe and work smart.

[@DazJeffo]

only just come across your channel, and I’ve already watched loads… thank you. I’d also like to thank you for not adding anoying music, even on the parts where you ain’t talking, which makes it much easier to watch.

[@Kitcheneering]

Very Simple. Very ingenious. Very Useful. Very... Jean! Good job.

[@MrPatdeeee]

Another gem from a genius. Thank you kind Sir.

[@MrJohnnyboyrebel]

It’s great to see ingenuity and common sense used in making a functional jig. Well done!

[@JDnBeastlet]

Hey Jean, awesome jig! Nicely made and well documented. Love your channel!

[@murrayhorn8817]

A tip on the hole saws. Use the hole saw for about 1mm,. Stop, now drill a 8mm hole on the edge of the wheel. If you want to keep the wheels, make sure the hole errors on the outside. Now go back and holesaw as before. This edge hole acts as an exhaust for the sawdust. The makes using the holesaw much quicker and neater.

[@zapa1pnt]

Jean, if you (at any time) would like to use store bought knobs, get those which have a threaded insert, instead of a molded in bolt. That way, you can use threaded rod to make a shaft, the length you want. Thread the rod in, with some red Locktite (thread locker) and it won't come loose, but can still be removed, to use the knob, for something else, later.

[@jonasmjanssongmail]

This was just awesome! I’m definitely gonna build this one, despite having good access to t-track - it just feels so neat and I have a bunch of holesaw cut-offs laying around asking me to do something with them :)

[@thomasmarliere2505]

I like the wheels and as always, it’s very well made while staying simple. Thanks for this video and take care 👊

[@CsongorHalmai]

Very smart idea. Thanks for being here. :)

[@hjboots]

You hit the nail on the head with this jig. It`s exactly what i need to get tapered wood. Simple and i love the way you built the jig. Thank you for sharing.

[@juliantavalin4842]

It's quite satisfying to see him go and use the various stations (sander, table, etc.) we've seen him build over the course of the channel.

[@matthewlrx]

Such a great idea, thank you for sharing. Love how you always go in detail on how things are done.

[@shawnr771]

Very cool. You could mark common taper angles that you use onto the jig.

[@JohnSawtell]

Using the slots instead of the fence for a jig like this helps you maintain zero clearance to the blade to minimize tearout. Using the slots you drop it down and it is perfectly registered always (assuming you're always using the same blade) where with using the fence you have to fuss about too much to get it set just right. A foot at the tail of the jig would probably also be good to counteract some of the force instead of relying solely on the clamp.

[@Greg8872]

And the foot at end would also make it easier for repeatable cuts between pieces, just always make sure the piece it butted up against it.

[@stewartmcmanus3991]

Yep, I was expecting Jean to do a slot piece and yes a foot for multi cuts.

[@jonasmjanssongmail]

I’m thinking I’ll have a miter bar on my version. For a foot, I’ll make it removable in case I want to make a taper on a longer piece. Should be easy enough with two more t-nuts.

[@bobbyb1607]

@@jonasmjanssongmail Installing the foot with one knob in the middle would allow it to pivot to any angle.

[@billofalltrades1468]

Great work ! Very good thinking.

[@miker9951]

I really like that your designs are always a little different, always a little simpler, and always just as good, or a little better then most other designs. I hope you build a drill press table, would love to see your take on that. Thanks for making my shop better.

[@markb4919]

I think that is the best design for a tapering gig diy or otherwise. Im going to make one as soon as I have time to get into the shop. Nicely done

[@tashapalmer4519]

Brilliant as always. I have used my circular saw and clamped a guide on top of the piece. It is so fiddly. Have to make this jig for my table saw 😊

[@julietphillips1991]

Works like a charm!

[@ShadowzGSD]

great job, easy and simple, got to point out though at 8:15 it really does need a nose and mouth to make it complete.

[@2sweetpaul]

Great out of the box think. Definitely worth building.

[@stewartmcmanus3991]

A great idea, I'll have a go at that, thanks.

[@rogerlareau7621]

Great jig looks like it works great I think I might make one to. Thanks for the idea 😊

[@tonyjones5788]

So straight forward and so effective.Thanks Stay safe

[@skogsmats]

Simple and easy to build. Nice work.

[@markgreatrix5511]

This is awesome and effective. Love it

[@DanPeacock]

This is great! I love it! I have a project that needs tapered legs. I am so making something like this.

[@tommyvukovic8940]

Very clever sir. Great job as always.

[@craigevans147]

Great idea. I think an adjustable end stop would make it even better for repeatability. Maybe just one more tnut, a few inches from the pushing edge and a few inches from the blade side edge and a rectangular piece of ply with a slot cut in it would be a good addition and keep it simple.

[@maxximumb]

Beautifully simple and easy to use. It's just what I need for an upcoming project. I'll add a runner to the bottom as my fence can be a pain to line up perfectly. I'll be making extra hold downs to swap out the wheels, so I can also use it to put a straight edge on timber as I don't have a jointer and my my skills with a hand planer need work.

[@wernichtscharneck5368]

Great idea for the straight edge.

[@glenschumannGlensWorkshop]

Nice work.

[@tagiti]

very good idea

[@scsolutions25]

amazing..

[@sheltonsmith9270]

very clever

[@ShawnClarady]

You do great work in a shop that looks to be only about 10 1/2 feet wide. great use of the space.

[@scottm-nc9451]

Nice jig👍 .. glad to see you wearing ear and eye protection ... take it from an old man where protection wasn't common and now where hearing aids because of noise damage😞

[@gerrie7407]

Lekke idee dankie

[@maconSTUFF]

Goeie werk bra!... I look forward to the "retractable castors"... 🤘

[@obikornikowo_pl3350]

Nice work , but u should use T-track slot not guard for moving your jig . It will prevent from moving .

[@keithkruger5841]

Mooi man.

[@ADBBuild]

Very nice. Looks like you could use a table saw fence extension though. Got a little wobbly towards the end.

[@philipjones9297]

How on earth do you come up with these ideas. Absolutely brilliant 👍

[@gregmislick1117]

on the hold down - take a large-ish dowel ( bigger than the bolt ) cut it as long as the hold down is wide, flatten 1 side on the sander and then drill a hole through the flat side, but that over the bolt with the flat side against the hold down - you may want to slightly elongate the holes in the hold down..or just make them into a slot... so that the bolt has clearance to allow the holddown to angle

[@eskimoblue1]

How do you determine the angle of the taper accurately?

[@richardljohnson9727]

Nice video but in the future wouldn’t it be nice if you could say what size the material that you are using THANKS

[@Kainosktisis]

Nice jig, since your using this for smaller pieces a stop block at the end of the jig was the first thing I thought of too, as John S. suggested, might be helpful to keep the work piece from slipping while ripping, a second piece on the opposite corner makes the jig reversible for wider pieces of wood, Q. how many slivers have you had to remover from your hands by wiping the work piece with your bare hands? ouch!😬 I quit doing that a long time ago but still forget once in a great while... we call the "bolt" with a square base a " Carriage bolt" not sure why but thats what it is called here in America, love your innovative ideas! keep it up! 👍

[@Ding_Bat]

Great design! The knobs on the wheels could be a problem if your stock is thicker than the wheels, so you may need to revisit that a little. But other than that, I think this is fantastic!

[@leondubois3221]

Wow, love it! Do you sold plan of your jigs?

[@darrenjensen5775]

Great design, Sir! P.S.: 8:16...hey there good lookin’! 🤣🤣🤣

[@KoenVerheyen]

I saw a trick on another channel for cleaner hole saw cuts. Basically you don't drill all the way through but only the center and then turn the board and cut the rest from the other side (using the center hole for guidance). Should save on the cleanup afterwards but don't know which method is most efficiënt in terms of time consumption.

[@KoenVerheyen]

Btw, that method also makes the piece of wood come out of the hole saw bit more easily.

[@pinkponyofprey1965]

HA! Problem solved. Dirt cheap and super simple. What more to wish for? A cold beer perhaps haha ... mmm XD

[@mstr_anderson]

As they say... ‘n boer maak a plan!

[@JohnCooke-rb6fz]

Just subscribed to your chanel, nice to see an SA site .if you are based in Capetown where do you get T TRACK from

[@michaelgrabstein6423]

For repeatable parts you need a stop on the back. The two wheels are great and determine the angle, but you need a back stop so that each piece sits at the same place on the sled. without the back stop you can not use this for batching parts effectively.

[@WoodshopJunkies]

Thanks, I realized so. I'm adding a dowel at the bottom left corner to act as a stop block.

[@hayleyscomet1]

Hiya Bud...awesome videos. I have the same Metabo Mitre Saw....what blade did you put on yours...Wayne Cape Town

[@R3apr]

I would like to know where you get t-tracks in our beautiful country

[@theSiCness1512]

Try 3Dprintingstore.co.za that's where I got mine, the pricing isn't that bad & they deliver....

[@JosephQPublic]

Couldn’t you add a guide to the bottom to fit in the track of your table saw so you can use it without the fence?

[@dougveganparadisebuilder5808]

No T-tracks in Paraguay. I am thinking about importing a t-slot router bit to make T-tracks out of wood. T-nuts, I wonder if I can find them here. Might be hard, like finding wood glue in a bottle.

[@miki09876]

There's usually multiple ways to do things. You could layer 1/2 cm plywood with gaps to make you down tracks as well.

[@victorhopper6774]

can be done with a dado blade from the back side. plow 10 c wide 5 mm deep . plow the center out the with of bolt and deph. glue 5 mm by 10 c board in the slot. flip over and plow with of bolt. good dado blades are worth way more than single use router bits.

[@levib]

How thick is that plywood?

[@garryverniest5893]

That hold down as executed is sketchy at best. The pivot/fulcrum end is too low causing the hold down to contact the workpiece at the edge. That is a no no in my books as it would be very easy for the workpiece to come loose. The hold down needs to contact it in the center. The fulcrum could be made higher or possibly a half dowel added to the hold down end thus ensuring contact is made in the middle of the workpiece. I also believe there should be at least 2 hold downs, especially for a longer workpiece.

[@vincechoraszewski2394]

Hows about some measurements in standard not metric, please

[@johnjohn7176]

The drab calendar preliminarily carve because velvet perinatally telephone anenst a worthless bomber. eatable, zealous soda

[@TheFalconJetDriver]

An offer of advice! Show what it is you built in the beginning of the video rather than make us watch what you are building.

[@marlondaniels3114]

Don't be a douche man. Nobody is "making" you watch anything. You can just go to the end of the video if all you want to see is the end product. I'm sure most here enjoyed watching the whole process and the thinking behind it. It's not like you didn't know what he was building at the beginning of the video.

[@gianmarcopiazza]

How to complicate your life when it is not necessary. You can do the same job with a very simple jig, easier than yours

[@sheep3854]

I cant seem to find this video on your channel, can you link it please

[@stewartmcmanus3991]

@@sheep3854 Yes, looking forward to that one, there's always a knocker isn't there?

[@JosephQPublic]

Please show us!

[@gianmarcopiazza]

Hey funny guys, there are dozens of tapering jigs videos on youtube that are simpler than this and just as functional. If you aren't able to find those you probably won't even be able to replicate this 😉