Onkyo HT-R500 receiver won't stay on

[@SelahPictures]

The noise you're hearing is from the output relays doing their job; they're supposed to make that noise. It's turning itself off because it's detecting a fault condition, probably a short caused by the failure of one or more of the output transistors which are gooped to the heat sink there on the right. Find a local electronics tech (you want one with gray hair :) ) it probably needs a few small components replaced. There's a service manual for it online with schematics and a part list.

[@larryfardy1956]

Hey. Take a multimeter, put it into continuity mode and check the white 3 prong resistors next to heat sink. Put a lead to each of the outer legs and you will hear a tone denoting continuity. When you find 1 that does not tone pull it out. Do the same for the black 3 prong high current transistors but this time you want to hear a tone. No tone denotes good transistor. Tone is bad transistor. Pull them out and replace. Try that. It worked for my Onkyo HT-R570

[@arielfrench3911]

Larry Fardy damn, any of that in med level electronics knowledge girl lang?? :)

[@intersputnik1]

This is the correct repair. A pair of transistors was dead. I replaced 2SC5242 AND 2SA1962 Now the amp is fully working. I used Transistors from ON Semiconductor. The original 5242 and 1962 transistors appeared to be generic. This was a nice fast repair. I'd recommend getting a few extra transistors just in case it happens again in the future. Total repair cost $4.30

[@Adam-iv6lw]

That sound is a relay switch. It is turning off the amp as a part of a protection circuit. It is sensing something wrong like a short or a bad component. That doesn't look like corrosion it looks like flux from when they soldered it together.

[@JuvenalMena]

from a forum on internet: if you turn the unit on HOLD the display key and hit the on/Standby button twice you will see the version of the processor you are using. Within 3 seconds if you release those buttons and hit home you will see the reason for the protection mode. T = Thermal, V = Voltage and I = Current - = Other. In my screenshots below you can see that mine shutoff for thermal but instead of too hot it is too COLD!!!! -23F! I know i keep my home a little on the cold side but wow! (note last 2 columns are volume level and listening mode). You should be able to do this even if your unit is constantly shutting off just have to be very quick. If you turn on, Hold Display, hit on/standby twice and then hit the Tone button it will bring up the current status of the Thermal sensor and Fan. First column is voltage, 2nd is temp, 3rd is fan speed x=off, L=low, H=high. 4th is amplifier power H = High-b, L= Low-b. Following the above directions to pull the diagnostics data for the fault being tripped, mine was showing a thermal fault, with a temperature of 400+F! While fiddling around to try and see what else I could find out, I hit the 'return' button, while at the thermal data readout. This triggered the following output on the screen "ProtectDataCLR", which was immediately followed by a restart of the receiver. After it came back up, I pulled up the fault code page again (hold display button, hit on/standby button 2 times, then hit home), and now no fault was reported, and temperature reading showed -32F. It seems that when a fault occurs, it saves that data & state, which requires a manual clearing of that fault data to see current readouts. I'm not sure if that fixed my problem or not, but it's been running solid since I cleared out the fault data.

[@ebaluyot7793]

which one is the "home button"?

[@ambostralian]

Thank you for this! My r-393 was having the same issues and this fixed it! Mine was also showing a stupidly high temp but after clearing it everything seems to be working as it should.

[@witdaMacksauce]

What's the home button?

[@hehehks]

yes, thx, it works for me,fixed !

[@JuvenalMena]

@@hehehks Great, i still have this HT and works great no problem so far.

[@smcintosh417]

This is almost always the output transistors. And never the relay. Also check the .22 ohm emitter resistor. Replacing these parts fix about 90% of units that go into protection. In this receiver it's the 2SA1962/2SC5242 transistors. Be sure to add heat sink compound.

[@jasonmurdoch8023]

Don't forget to clean up all of the old heatsink grease off the heatsink then add new grease otherwise it will burn up the transistor's

[@jeffyboye9739]

Do you know anything about the onkyo tx-nr676 ?

[@diamonddave7555]

OK, that's called flux resins on the transformer leads to PC. Your issue is either a defective component, or excessive DC. If your 'not a technician' I strongly suggest a professional service tech...IF ya can find one. By adjusting DC Offset and Idle current you may get it to come back to start. Find out a 'Factory Reset' which is pushing the on/off button, and a combination of another simultaneously. If not, then a component such as an Output Transistor, or even something in the Power Supply may be preventing your Unit to stay on. Good luck in your Adventure. Be safe.

[@tracygauthier9990]

Did you find out the problem with the Onkyo recever

[@Speedkiller33]

I got HT-R557 and has the same symptoms....did you ever figure out if it was a bad cap or resistor? any help would be appreciated

[@JuvenalMena]

if you turn the unit on HOLD the display key and hit the on/Standby button twice you will see the version of the processor you are using. Within 3 seconds if you release those buttons and hit home you will see the reason for the protection mode. T = Thermal, V = Voltage and I = Current - = Other. In my screenshots below you can see that mine shutoff for thermal but instead of too hot it is too COLD!!!! -23F! I know i keep my home a little on the cold side but wow! (note last 2 columns are volume level and listening mode). You should be able to do this even if your unit is constantly shutting off just have to be very quick. If you turn on, Hold Display, hit on/standby twice and then hit the Tone button it will bring up the current status of the Thermal sensor and Fan. First column is voltage, 2nd is temp, 3rd is fan speed x=off, L=low, H=high. 4th is amplifier power H = High-b, L= Low-b. Following the above directions to pull the diagnostics data for the fault being tripped, mine was showing a thermal fault, with a temperature of 400+F! While fiddling around to try and see what else I could find out, I hit the 'return' button, while at the thermal data readout. This triggered the following output on the screen "ProtectDataCLR", which was immediately followed by a restart of the receiver. After it came back up, I pulled up the fault code page again (hold display button, hit on/standby button 2 times, then hit home), and now no fault was reported, and temperature reading showed -32F. It seems that when a fault occurs, it saves that data & state, which requires a manual clearing of that fault data to see current readouts. I'm not sure if that fixed my problem or not, but it's been running solid since I cleared out the fault data.

[@enzohsu615]

did you fix the problem? and how? my onkyo is facing the same issue :(

[@rachelbinto]

I have an Onkyo HT-RC260 that does the same. The clicking sound is coming from the relay on the small power supply board that powers on the main transformer. As soon as that happens it turns back off and powers on again. I have been able to create this problem with just the power board connected to the MPU board (which contains the micro controller) and nothing else. It keep clikcing back and forth. My guess is that it is a bad micro requiring the whole MPU board to be replaced.

[@izzzzzz6]

did you ever fix it? need help still?

[@ronnieyap4289]

Maybe receiver is in high-current protect-shutdown? check for shorted output transistors or other components.

[@davidotoole07]

OK so I'm having something similar, and found that if you remove the two glass fuses it will stay on. I'm just waiting on replacement fuse and hope it does the trick

[@mattsez2879]

i tried this....i have 2 GLASS fuses on main power board ( the one standing sideways )......and 2 below it ( on the board laying flat ) i UNPLUGGED the unit.....and on the lower fuses.....popped them out...plugged unit back in, and it works great!!!! My unit reset all the time after it was warmed up, i dont think id use this fix for a unit that turns off right away, thats a dead short, and removing the protection fault system might fry the unit. thanks for the info, i was getting ready to trash the unit!!!

[@Prince0fDiscord]

Mine was having the same problem and removing the two glass fuses worked! Is it safe to leave them unplugged? What are they attached to?

[@davidotoole07]

Would really love to know this, im afraid to leave it on in case it over heats and goes on fire

[@racer4x930]

removed 2 ceramic fuses and unit stayed on but had no sound

[@tri9398]

My HT-R500 is doing the same, no standby light, no noise or no relay clicks or nothing. It's dead like not plugged in at all... Did you find problem?

[@Zionsol777]

tr mi you have a blown fuse

[@tri9398]

I wish it were that simple. First thing I check, fuses test fine.

[@tysoncoon1971]

@@tri9398 same here

[@JuvenalMena]

if you turn the unit on HOLD the display key and hit the on/Standby button twice you will see the version of the processor you are using. Within 3 seconds if you release those buttons and hit home you will see the reason for the protection mode. T = Thermal, V = Voltage and I = Current - = Other. In my screenshots below you can see that mine shutoff for thermal but instead of too hot it is too COLD!!!! -23F! I know i keep my home a little on the cold side but wow! (note last 2 columns are volume level and listening mode). You should be able to do this even if your unit is constantly shutting off just have to be very quick. If you turn on, Hold Display, hit on/standby twice and then hit the Tone button it will bring up the current status of the Thermal sensor and Fan. First column is voltage, 2nd is temp, 3rd is fan speed x=off, L=low, H=high. 4th is amplifier power H = High-b, L= Low-b. Following the above directions to pull the diagnostics data for the fault being tripped, mine was showing a thermal fault, with a temperature of 400+F! While fiddling around to try and see what else I could find out, I hit the 'return' button, while at the thermal data readout. This triggered the following output on the screen "ProtectDataCLR", which was immediately followed by a restart of the receiver. After it came back up, I pulled up the fault code page again (hold display button, hit on/standby button 2 times, then hit home), and now no fault was reported, and temperature reading showed -32F. It seems that when a fault occurs, it saves that data & state, which requires a manual clearing of that fault data to see current readouts. I'm not sure if that fixed my problem or not, but it's been running solid since I cleared out the fault data.

[@DJCooper501]

It's called protection mode you have one of you please just choose gone or fuse popped

[@raaz1304]

We had the same issue but fixed it by resoldering dry joints transistors for sound output

[@twistedtreezz]

Dude try resetting to factory settings usually it's holding the VCR DVD button along with the standby button hold it for a few seconds until it says clear It'll it'll go into standby mode and then you can turn it back on. it's not a might not be the VCR DVD button and standby it could be another button combination so Google it for your model

[@marks79luv]

i have an RCA STA 3850 and it did this . turns on then off, now it wont turn on at all.

[@hambrgr6283]

I blew my shit up with different speakers lol no original one is left the new sub i got lee my

[@frankreiserm.s.8039]

There are some power transformers that, if replaced, will eliminate the problem. Frank Frank Reiser Video/Audio Service

[@dennislittle3181]

Frank reviser / Audio service. Where are you I need help with my Onkyo amp also , mine shuts off at volume 39 to 40 turn it down it does fine I need help. [e-mail]. 706-506-4606

[@redsharkruena5441]

jey i have the same issue with mine too..pls advise..thanks

[@ebianchin1]

Common problem is the relays that are attached to the circuit board the solder has loosen... resolder

[@levanlionson3323]

Its a relay .On of those black boxes.Get a compass and get it close to each of them and turn it on to see if compass needle moves then that's the one

[@arielfrench3911]

mine, too... what did we figure out?? anything? I miss music so bad ! :)

[@johnlandry9375]

You will not be able to fix this yourself. If you are not an experienced tech. Take it to a repair shop. The repair will cost between 100 and 200. Another option is to get a used one. They are a dime a dozen. You can get a decent HT receiver on Facebook marketplace for under 60bucks.

[@Flleras]

switching transistor it should be an AP123

[@stevenmills6502]

Having similar problem with my Samsung receiver I like to get like Dave Morgan when the thing pisses me off

[@atiflucky8407]

i install new software after restart resver stand on and dont go to next help me

[@laptech3767]

It's on safe mode

[@MrTopsoil911]

Its a protection relay.

[@Sherbert_]

I have the same model, same problem

[@JuvenalMena]

if you turn the unit on HOLD the display key and hit the on/Standby button twice you will see the version of the processor you are using. Within 3 seconds if you release those buttons and hit home you will see the reason for the protection mode. T = Thermal, V = Voltage and I = Current - = Other. In my screenshots below you can see that mine shutoff for thermal but instead of too hot it is too COLD!!!! -23F! I know i keep my home a little on the cold side but wow! (note last 2 columns are volume level and listening mode). You should be able to do this even if your unit is constantly shutting off just have to be very quick. If you turn on, Hold Display, hit on/standby twice and then hit the Tone button it will bring up the current status of the Thermal sensor and Fan. First column is voltage, 2nd is temp, 3rd is fan speed x=off, L=low, H=high. 4th is amplifier power H = High-b, L= Low-b. Following the above directions to pull the diagnostics data for the fault being tripped, mine was showing a thermal fault, with a temperature of 400+F! While fiddling around to try and see what else I could find out, I hit the 'return' button, while at the thermal data readout. This triggered the following output on the screen "ProtectDataCLR", which was immediately followed by a restart of the receiver. After it came back up, I pulled up the fault code page again (hold display button, hit on/standby button 2 times, then hit home), and now no fault was reported, and temperature reading showed -32F. It seems that when a fault occurs, it saves that data & state, which requires a manual clearing of that fault data to see current readouts. I'm not sure if that fixed my problem or not, but it's been running solid since I cleared out the fault data.

[@cheffskitchen]

Related problem chance relay

[@AaronBilger]

I found my problem it was a fuse

[@shaunwilliam3476]

the fuse? it was doing the clicking thing?

[@Tomulisss]

Aaron bilger Wrom the same problem amplifiers ?

[@DJCooper501]

And I know how to fix it Aeneid poppy Park when your microfarads is probably gone to

[@24hourstosavethearth]

If you think you need an electrician to fix this you are really in trouble.

[@cheffskitchen]

Relay change

[@fastgtp106]

He says I love it to death. Like it's alive human lol...dude go buy another one..