Hornby Triang R157/158 DMU Repair

[@PaulinesPastimes]

The contacts on the front bogie are a great idea. On the power bogie, both wheels on each axle should either be smooth (later type) or grooved (earlier type). It looks like the insulated wheels on each axle have been replaced with smooth ones. If you want it to run quieter, you may be able to source smooth wheels to replace the remaining grooved ones. Also, there should be a tiny ball bearing inside the spherical bearing on each end of the armature to prevent end float. Might be worth checking to see if they are there, as this might make it run quieter too. I have been enjoying watching all your earlier videos that I missed, the layout building is really good. 👍

[@SoRTs6233]

It's always satisfying to get a repair finished successfully. great job, Bill. looking forward to others. Cheers

[@kevfrombutterley]

After buying a few neo magnets I invested in a magnetiser from Ronald Dodd. It's not only paid for itself already; it's become probably my favourite modelling tool. For someone running Hornby Dublo, Wrenn or Triang motors they're definitely worth a look. :-) I'm enjoying your videos!

[@oobill]

When I got back into the hobby I was only expecting to buy maybe a dozen locos so didn't think a re-magnetiser was worth buying considering it's cost. But I am starting to consider it although there is nothing wrong with neodymiums despite a lot of the horror stories.

[@rikmorley6469]

Hi Bill, I had a dry solder joint on a dcc ready loco blank chip took me so long to sort out the intermittent running. Finally had an Ohhhhhh moment with it when I had the magnifying glasses on and the avo connected 👍😁

[@paull2613]

Once again handy tips with Magnets and tools Thanks

[@mercerengland3392]

Great video. Will stripping the motor down completely, including removing the magnet cause and damage?

[@donniblanco5239]

Well done - my Green one is even Noisier, but I wouldn’t be without it. 👍🏻

[@christophernettleton8381]

My son was given one of these and the wiring around the motor is missing, and the engine does not run. Is there any resource where I can find out what the components are and what to joint to where. It is not immediately clear. There is a single wire coming from underneath the bogie soldered onto the brush on one side but nothing else. Chris N

[@alexdrennan7654]

love these old hornby /triange trains

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

Patience rewards. Well done. 👏👏👍😀

[@grahammellstrom4995]

Thanks for your video. I've just purchased and old green one from ebay yesterday so this is a very timely video to come across. I'd be interested to know how to add those additional wires to increase pic up. Any advice welcome. Love the channel very helpful for a servicing model beginner like me. 👍

[@stevefitton8594]

I have an early motor bogie very much like the one here, but it has a cracked gear wheel. do you know of any suppliers that I might get a replacement from? many thanks

[@johnedwards4274]

Hi Bill Could you put a link for the re magnetiser Contact cleaner And cleaning fluid Lot of old school locos to service Cheers from 🇩🇪

[@shedhead00]

My hymec had a habit of putting up track pins in to the gear, if that's any help

[@allanxxx8789]

Not sure if you can help but.....I have the same power plant in my old dock authority shunter. Ive had it years, but I cant use it much as the things speed is out of control...It will crawl...with objection, but give it a little more and she screams like hell and could outrun any athlete ( Not Quite ) but she is fast..A friend said a scale speed of over 200mph !!! Any idea why? Or how can i tame her...ive had other railway modellers ask me, What the hell is in that thing? All i can say is she has a few more transistor things in it than yours has...But ????

[@lloydpenfold486]

The 'screaming' is often dry or worn armature bearings, I have found. Try oiling them (carefully - don't get oil on the commutator or brushes!).

[@shb8124]

Haha that's me too, "let's just see how weak that is..." (break it) "see..." 🤣

[@lestercooper1871]

Hi Bill John,s amazing trains had a lot of these wheels re tooled and was selling them for these models .Might be worth having a chat with him ..

[@fenman1954]

Unfortunately I heard John has died a sad loss to the hobby and KZbin

[@lestercooper1871]

@@fenman1954 Oh that,s really sad news David .I did speak to him on the phone about a year ago .He will be sadly missed .Thanks for the information .

[@JohnJohnson-cn9fh]

sounds a bit like a dmu,nice one.jpj

[@vikingsmb]

dont use the neo magnets as they will cause premature wear on the motor, use a original magnet which can be remagnetised.

[@oobill]

Certainly if the bearings are worn then neo mags can stop the motor or will increase the wearing faster. If the bearings are good then neo mags are a cheap way to get the motor going until the original can be re-magnetised or replaced. A lot depends on how much running time a loco gets.

[@michaeljohnson3396]

I heard it was the amount of current it draws. Neos make the motors over efficient which can cause the bearings issues. In my old motors, I've deliberately weekend the pull of the magnet by bending the plates away from the coil slightly to make it act more like a good original. I. E it draws more of a current. (0.2-0.3 amps). It's all down to preferences.

[@bobgibbs9750]

Crikey Bill, I was just watching you remove that magnet, do you work as a dentist!

[@oobill]

Neodymiums don't come out easy! It's probably easier pulling a tooth!

[@johnhampson7]

No you're not an idiot Bill, brain and hand were just a wee tad out of sync.