oorail.com | How to repair a slow moving steam locomotive - OO scale Model Railway

[@TimsBitsnPieces]

I think you need a reminder.. the body is the plastic part that represents the shape of the loco.. the chassis is the part that holds the motor and wheel arrangement, not the other way around as you stated in the first 2 minutes.......... the other thing you should have mentioned is the all of the pushrods and linkage arms need a touch of lubrication oil and where the rods go into the steam chest.. I was taught .. "If it moves oil it."

[@johnoorail6824]

Good catch, I had to correct at 00:32, so the only reminder I probably need is not to film these types of videos in one take at 3am on very little sleep! Well done though, out of 32000+ views, you were the first to point that out. I usually lubricate the moving parts, as you can see from other videos on the channel, so I may have determined it wasn't necessary or already did it before taking the loco apart. I can't remember what I had for breakfast last week, so the odds on me remembering if I lubricated a loco I took apart 9 years ago are slim to none :)

[@NMranchhand]

What a powerful reminder that cleaning and lubrication is 90% of maintenance. Thank you.

[@Oorail]

NMranchhand You're welcome... I have a few dozen more locos like this that I need to get to, so I'm sure it won't be too long before there is another repair video...

[@castlejunction1707]

Thanks for that.... I for one found it useful. My neighbour is downsizing and in doing so she found a complete train set along with a couple of locos....much to my surprise she gave them to me....so your useful tip will come in handy as she thinks the trains must be 25 plus years old....yet they look brand new. 😃😃

[@Oorail]

mairuz1 You are welcome... you'd be surprised at how many people seem to purchase locomotives, run them in one or two sessions, box them back up and they never see the light of day again for years later! I've got dozens of locos like that in need of various repairs, so you should see more of these videos over the next few weeks and months. If you look at the playlists on the channel, you should find the OO Repairs one, you might find some of those other videos useful as well...

[@castlejunction1707]

oorail.com Thanks for your reply...I am a regular to your channel and will certainly look out for more of how to videos....

[@trainroomgary]

Good stuff being done at the work bench of oorail. • Cheers from the Detroit & Mackinac Railway

[@Oorail]

***** Thanks.. glad folks are enjoying these videos! My workbench has been pretty backlogged for awhile now, but hopefully I'll start to clear these projects! :)

[@nigelduckworth406]

Sorry, I'm talking through my backside. It's the Airfix Scot which is tender drive, not the Mainline.

[@richardbiggin6913]

Found your videos and work bench tips useful, good stuff subbed.

[@tankmicr00man]

Thanks for your videos. I'm having the same slow running problem with mine, but lubrication hasn't helped and it gets hot. Any suggestions?

[@Oorail]

If the motor is getting hot its likely under some strain. You will probably need to fully service the loco. I would start by making sure the wheels and gears involved are cleaned, moving freely (with the motor out of the picture) and lubricated. I would lubricate the moving parts of the motor (drive shaft, pins etc), and apply power to the motor without the wheels engaged. Does it still get hot? I would carefully remove any carbon deposits off the motor (depending on the motor type), and if there are serviceable parts (brushes etc), I would replace those and see if that provides improvement. Which type / model loco are you having an issue with?

[@tankmicr00man]

@@Oorail Thanks for your detailed reply and information - I've done some cleaning work but it hasn't made any difference. The model is Bachmann Branchline 31-212, so it's probably similar to the Mainline one. Am guessing new motor?!

[@MrMarkey4184]

I have a question that I hope u might be able to help with I have a mainline loco a manor chassis that is getting power to the motor when directly powered to it I have changed brushes springs but when it's all together no power via wheels? The wheels are cleaned and the plastic spacer is not broken and it won't pick up the power via track any ideas? Many thanks

[@duncan1945]

Loved it, i had the same problem, now solved , thanks.

[@Oorail]

Cool.. glad that helped you out Duncan..

[@MyChaz2]

Great how to video

[@Oorail]

+Chaz Walsh Thanks Chaz, glad you enjoyed it. If there is anything you would like to see let us know. Today I'm answering comments from Amtrak's California Zephyr, roughly a 33 hour train journey out of the 55 hours I'm going over the weekend. :)

[@bobsbasementhotrains3020]

Good video . If I can assess the commutator / motor brushes I will clean this and maybe lightly sand it to remove carbon , dirt ,,,ect . . Also on some steam the side rods will have hair or lent wrapped around the crank pins that needs to be removed

[@MegaClass70]

Great Video

[@nigelduckworth406]

The Mainline Scot, which I have, is tender drive

[@averagekerbalpilot322]

I have this exact loco with exactly the same issue.

[@phil36310]

Just use WD40 even better than ANY oil for it penetrates and doesn't dry out or attracts dirt. I have loco's almost 50 years old and running as new. Only changed the coal brushes when used up. greetings

[@Oorail]

WD40 is a really bad idea, its flammable and will chemically breakdown the plastic used in the locomotive. I'm using synthetic model oil on very early Tri-ang locos without any problems, all the way up to modern day locos. I've got some Tri-ang locos, the class 31 and blue pullman come to mind, that spark quite spectacularly. So WD40 is definitely not a good idea. You should consider buying a lottery ticket though :)

[@whigwood]

I agree with 00rail. WD40 should be left in the garage - never anywhere near a model. It leaves a residue.

[@andreagreco918]

Video lento,parli troppo e fai niente...