oorail.com | Hornby OO Gauge Steam Locomotive Tender Motor Removal Howto

This video from oorail.com shows you how to remove the ringfield motor from a Type A Frame Hornby tender. The video also shows you how to remove the motor from an 8-wheel L.N.E.R style Hornby tender, and where to locate the clips on a Type B frame Hornby tender.

[@Oorail]

yes this is on my todo list, I have a couple of 3 pole motors with armatures that appear to be shot, so probably a good opportunity to try out a 5 pole conversion. i've also got a ton of scenery projects to finish and the scratch built OHLE to continue as well. So I think I'll have a busy winter :)

[@Oorail]

The squeals maybe a sign the brushes aren't making proper contact, misaligned or worn. I have a HST that squeals and it was due to a bad spring holding the brush in place. One of the APTs I am restoring wouldn't start / struggled to start, but was fine when moving. This turned out to be a partial crack in the rubber magnet that had slightly altered the polarity in a small spot. I replaced the magnet from a HST motor, and put a Neomagnet in the HST.

[@trainman2210]

Don't know if anyones seen that theres a company that makes a 5 pole motor conversion kit for most old ringfield motors they allow for smooth running at slow speed and you can make them crawl on the track if you have motive power depot.

[@Oorail]

Yes the type B tender won't look exactly the same as the LNER one but the principal is the same. On that central metal panel there should be a notch on either end (one near the coupling, one near the connection pin on the tender that hooks onto the loco). It should be a small notch a few mm wide and high. A small screw driver can be use to pry the motor away from that metal casing, in the video I demonstrate how to push up on the wheels to release the motor.

[@user-qj6yo8kb3v]

My st frusquin is making a loud cracking noise from tender is this brushes

[@BristolSpotterHD]

Thanks for this! trying to sort out my Hornby 5XP Patriot "Home Guard" which is tender driven is struggles to move and squeals but once at speed its ok..

[@gwalia65]

The tender B type on my King Edward 1 is different to the ones you have shown, it has what looks like a central metal panel holding in the axles underneath. Must have clips somewhere holding the unit it in but its these which are hidden and need pinpointing.

[@Oorail]

I'm living in Ohio (USA). I pickup the odd deal from eBay (look for auctions that are US only), but I get most of the locomotives from eHattons in the UK. Being outside the EU we are VAT exempt, eHattons remove the VAT, which I think is about 20-22%. I place orders with them quarterly and use DHL 2-day for shipping (its not much more expensive that Royal Mail and gets here on time). eHattons is faster than order from the USA or Canada!! :)

[@Oorail]

You should be able to fit a DCC decoder to it, you will just have to make sure the return feed that goes to the metal housing is wired to the correct part of the DCC decoder. You might check out DaveClass47 or EverardJunction on KZbin, they both use DCC. I'm running strictly analog, with the layout divided up into independently powered blocks to run multiple locos on the same layout etc.

[@Taffy7974]

I wonder could I ,make a 5 ring pole motor by using a board and wrap some copper wires arouud the 5 points of the ring pole ? And solider some capacity ?

[@tamaragostelow9035]

How do our gt the motor out of Schools class STOWE want to replace the wheels with the black spoked type ...

[@vinnie3x]

So i done the A4 tender now for the next challenge.......any ideas about dismantling a hornby King class loco....specifically wanting to take off the front bogie

[@Oorail]

The only King Class Loco I have is an old Lima one. Which King Class Loco is it? Have might find the service sheet here - www.hornbyguide.com/class_details.asp?classid=1

[@bplay40]

liked ur vid on motors, can u help pls I have a a4 tender Hornby runs ok but the small gear wheel keeps coming off ....is there any why to fix. I am new to model railways. thanks for some very good up dates. bplay40

[@Oorail]

To convert from 3-pole to 5-pole you need to replace the armature with a 5-pole armature.

[@Snowdonia2011]

Please can you show how you get access to the motor in the tender of a Hornby County Class, it may be R390? Thanks.

[@Oorail]

+David Llewellyn I don't think I actually have a County Class locomotive, but looking at the service sheet for R.390 it looks like its the same as most of the other tender driven ringfield locomotives. There are plastic clips between the tender chassis and the body. All you have to do is squeeze (very gently) the sides of the tender about mid-way up the tender body, and the clips should unclip from the body, you may have to push one side more or rock it back and forth a little, but it should unclip. If its never been opened it maybe very stiff. I've been meaning to do a follow up video to this, so I'll gather up some tenders and try to do it tomorrow evening (Wednesday). I've got a major layout update coming down the pipeline first :)

[@ShadowMaster2714]

can you please tell me the details of a 5 pole ring field motor used to drives similar model trains...i mean its power,voltage and current requirements...???

[@Oorail]

The ringfield motor featured in that video is a 3-pole motor. The key difference between the 3-pole and 5-pole motor is the armature on the 5-pole motor has five poles (or surfaces) that interact with the magnet, while a 3-pole motor only has three. I will be doing a 3-pole to 5-pole conversion project over the Christmas holidays this year, so watch out for a video on this. In terms of power requirements, they are relatively the same - so you would be looking at up to 12v DC, and the current requirement will vary depending on the motor. Typically the older motors will draw a bit more current, but since 5-pole motors are relatively new, I would expect it to be less than an amp, perhaps even as low as 0.5A.

[@drewneil1873]

Why didn't you use an old A4 Tender and show us?

[@Oorail]

I didn't have an old A4 tender on hand when I filmed this back in October 2012, however I have substantially more locos now than I did then, so if you would like to see one being taken apart let me know.

[@mikejj101]

Get someone to do a voice over cos your voice is crap

[@blaaazer441]

Do you live in the u.s or uk? Because I live in the u.s and I'm interested in buying oo gauge trains lol

[@vinnie3x]

i wanted to know how to take the motor out of the hornby A$ tender....like the guy in the vid I can do the duchess.....and NOT the A4...just like him!! Thanks

[@Oorail]

I have several Hornby A4 locos... I actually have one sitting on my workbench for an upcoming overhaul, so I'll see if I can put together a video for you over the next few days...

[@vinnie3x]

ok i managed it.....from your clues Thnx

[@corporallee44]

I was hoping you were going to actually dismantle the second and third Tender, not say "they work" and I can't find anywhere on KZbin that shows it done. I have one that has me perplexed, Taking the plastic cover off was kids stuff, after that I can't find any 'clip' e.t.c. to release the motor from the chassis. So anyone watching, and they have the answer, I would be most happy and put down the hammer.......

[@Oorail]

Arnold Robert Lee What loco is the tender that has you perplexed from? If I have it here, or a similar one, I can easily knock out a video for you this evening showing how to dismantle it. I could have put up a video a few hours long if I went through and dismantled every tender that I own! :)

[@andrewtongue7084]

Unfortunately, the one version (the third example) I really wanted in-depth removal from the lower chasis assembly - "push your screwdriver into these two pressure plates, & gently force out the motor" was insufficient; ironic, really, the one motor type that you chose to leave intact !! A suggestion, too - light up the work piece - your illumination of the motor wasn't nearly enough. Sorry, but decidedly unimpressed :/

[@Oorail]

Thanks for your feedback Andrew. The video you commented on is from October 2012, since filming that video, I have built a dedicated workbench with better lighting. You might want to check out later oorail videos. I'm sorry you weren't impressed, I'll see if I can dig up that third tender and do an updated video for you. In the meantime, you might want to check out this more recent video, it doesn't show how to remove the motor, but it does show an easier method for removing the tender. You can find it at kzbin.info/www/bejne/oJzTpYqsbtCspqc. We have a very broad audience at oorail, videos from 2012 are very early on, before figuring out the fine balance between showing people more detail and not offending them by showing too much. Can't please everyone, however if you'd like something shown, just ask, we're more than happy to help. What loco is the tender you are trying to open from?

[@andrewtongue7084]

Hello there, & apologies for my harshness - it wasn't justified, & I note that this was an "early" presentation. The locomotive in question is a Hornby A4 'Seagull', with the later, metal cased ring motor, mounted in a plastic chassis. I consider my frustration in failing to disengage one from the other, spilled out onto you, which is unpardonable. There appears to be a low registered 'whine' coming from the copper windings spindle, & it is that which I require access to - I can then assess whether (that) assembly needs part/full replacement, or just lubrication - I suspect it is the former. the locomotive itself, being a 'Silver seal' type, runs as sweet as a nut. Wishing you a very happy New Year !! :)

[@Oorail]

No worries, I think everyone who has worked on those tenders can identify with your frustration! That video I linked in my previous comment should be the same A4 tender (its definitely the metal cased ringfield motor). So I 3D printed a tool to make it easier, but you can use an old credit card or a piece of thin plastic to pop it open in the same way. Does the loco move when powered? If not, have a listen on that video and see if its the same whine. If its not moving, the problem is probably a disengaged worn center cog or a completely missing center cog. The cog can fall out, so be careful when moving the tender. If its missing hit up peters spares and make sure you have a good bench vice on hand when you get the new cog. If its still there and lose, you will need something to hold the cog in place as the metal spindle basically seems to bore out the inside of the cog over time. I have a 3D printable part that'll fix it, or if the tender is the same as the one I have, if you flip it over, the rivet / spacer that is holding the last wheel axle to the tender chassis, you want something like that. Not sure what they are called.

[@alistairgilchrist9720]

Not a lot of help if you don't take the drive apart!

[@Oorail]

Thanks for taking the time to comment. This video, as per the title, is just showing how to get the motor out of various tenders, was requested by some viewers. The channel has a search feature, what you're looking for is the ringfield motor tear down video, which you can find at kzbin.info/www/bejne/aKjcZmN5drJmbNE ... hope that helps you out. If you need something else, please feel free to ask, aside from the couple of hundred videos on the channel, I can turn around videos pretty quickly if needed.

[@vinnie3x]

of course not an A$ tender......it was an A4 tender....mind u might as well have been an A$ LOL