Operation Bad Wolf [Ep 13] - How to Set your Cam Timing/Advance | Classic Mini

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Parts in this Episode:
Degree Wheel - geni.us/7Oy2p (Amazon)
Dial Indicator - geni.us/AxPQAG (Amazon)
Offset Cam Key - cmdiy.co/offse...
MED Timing Gears - cmdiy.co/medTi...
Isky Copy Lifters - cmdiy.co/chill...
Isky Lifters - cmdiy.co/chill...
Cam Bearings - cmdiy.co/CamBe...
Rod Bearings - cmdiy.co/RodBe...
Main Bearings - cmdiy.co/MainB...
Adjustable Timing Gear - cmdiy.co/Adjus...
Timing Gear Duplex - cmdiy.co/Duple...
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Facebook - / classicminidiy Thanks for watching Classic Mini DIY! Please note Classic Mini DIY assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Classic Mini DIY recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, expensive electronics, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Classic Mini DIY, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Classic Mini DIY. Only attempt your own repairs if you can accept personal responsibility for the results, whether they are good or bad.

[@ktexler]

Hey Cole, hope you didn’t get too far since this video. You’re math was wrong on your first cam degree measurement, it was 119 not 129. You skipped 110 in your count. Check at 37:20ish in the video.

[@classicminidiy]

😑 Dammit. Well luckily I re-measured after I adjusted the actual cam gear, the second time around and I am confident thats correct. Sigh......

[@classicminidiy]

Follow up to my last statement I actually went back and reviewed my footage and thanks to the fact that I say everything out loud(subconsciously apparently) I was able to confirm I for sure have this adjusted correctly. WHEW!!!

[@ktexler]

Would have sucked if you had to do that all over again. Glad it worked out and really enjoying watching the build!

[@MEDEngineeringTechVideos]

Neat video. We'd always recommend test fitting the cam and crank sprockets on the camshaft/crankshaft before assembly of the engine. You'll quite often find burrs on the shaft or key, so light filing of any imperfections and they'll slide on and off with light resistance. If it needs to be pressed in place it's too tight - you'll struggle to remove them without damage. The chain is a German-made Iwis (pronounced e-vis). We can supply these for simplex and duplex setups and they do not stretch, unlike budget chains.

[@dumplingspeedshop]

Hi! I have absolutely new camshaft with new key but your sprocket does not fit. So only filing of the sprocket helped to fit it.

[@Stevestonmotorco]

Great video, Cole! I like the longer format for jobs like this because it let's you be thorough and informative.

[@classicminidiy]

Thank you! Whenever I make the long ones like this I worry I go into too much detail but so far its been good feedback so far, so I guess I will keep doing it! :-)

[@Stevestonmotorco]

Ya, keep going! Anyone watching the whole thing is probably looking for more detail.

[@nevhath]

Cole Just watched this video mate and its brilliant. The detail you explain everything in is very useful for budding engine builder. Thank you.

[@classicminidiy]

Thanks for the kind words. I’m really happy it helped

[@shovelrickshovelhead8713]

Sweet vid, and your tool box is a diy joy to find , Thanks Rick..

[@classicminidiy]

Thanks Rick! Anything you wish it had included?

[@joseestrada-ue5jv]

Great video cant wait to see the next video good job👌😎

[@classicminidiy]

Thanks Jose!

[@AdmiralProwarrior]

I like your work .

[@classicminidiy]

Thank you!

[@Dagowly83]

Don't forget to prime your oil pump otherwise it will cause premature wear as you go for initial crank.

[@josephberrie9550]

????? one turn of the key will make no difference to the oil pump its not made from plastic

[@eurcsikar]

can you help me to understand this, see if its right. 1- TDC from first cilynder 2- put wheel on TDC 3- anti clockwise find top of push rod 4- set 0º 5- clockwise go to 5º 6- read the wheel 7- anti clockwise go to 0º 8- clockwise again go to 5º 9- read the wheel. So my question is on step 8 you clockwise 5º or anticlockwise 5º

[@dominicdent422]

Interesting and helpful video, however you have incorrectly counted on the dial gauge, you counted 129 but it should be 119, and therefore you have put in the wrong offset.

[@paulhotson5820]

Likes correct to me.

[@dumplingspeedshop]

Hi Cole, please advise how to understand on what angle you rotate this MED gear? I have the same kit but there are no any marks on it to understand the angle. With woodruff key everything is clear - you buy concrete angle and use it. But with this gear I really can’t understand this :) Thank you!

[@roberthuisman7220]

Hey Cole, i like the shirts but would like to see Them with the mini in blue ;)

[@alexzavarro9769]

The only thing that confuses me on the cam timing is when you have the dial indicator on the pushrod, and you move 5 degrees clockwise to get the first number then when you go back to 0 and back to 5 degrees one more time clockwise wouldn't it be the same number? how is the second number not the same? Ive never done this before but I need to learn so I can rebuild my motor next. Thanks!!

[@classicminidiy]

Hey Alex, I can see how that would be a bit confusing. So once the pushrod reaches the zeroed out location, no matter which way you rotate the motor the rod is going to go down. So getting to 5deg turning the motor right vs getting to 5deg turning it left you will get two different numbers. Does that help clear it up a bit?

[@alexzavarro9769]

Ahh I see. that does make sense. Thanks!!

[@paulhotson5820]

Great stuff Cole,can you explain why it's 5 degrees and is your cam a standard 1275 A+. Thanks

[@classicminidiy]

Thank you! This cam was an EVO001 from Minispares. Each aftermarket camshaft will come with its own spec to "degree in the cam".

[@paulhotson5820]

@@classicminidiy Great thanks. The only can I see on minispares is the fast road EVOLUTION001 or EVOLUTION002 for 1.5 rockers Are these the same as yours?

[@mtb_landin]

I don't really understand why you need to degree the cam? Could you try to explain it? :)

[@classicminidiy]

Sure! I will do my best. So when you have a stock camshaft generally speaking its made for the amount of fixed advance or retardation required for the motor. As you being to change out the camshaft, the newer cams target a different power band in your motor. So when you degree the cam you are effectively optimizing power delivery for when the new performance camshaft opens and closes your valves. This ensures the cam is opening and closing the valves at the exact time the camshaft maker wanted them too. This also ensures the MOST power is being delivered to your wheels with your given engine parts. Does that help at all?

[@mtb_landin]

Classic Mini DIY ahhh I see, it makes sense.. so this should be done on upgrade cams or new cams but not if I still use my standard cam?

[@classicminidiy]

Personally I would still do it with your standard cam just to be safe but you might be able to get away with it. But another 30 mins of work for some peace of mind seems worth it to me. :-)

[@joeygti]

Cole.... what dial indicator should be used for degreeing a cam?

[@classicminidiy]

Alex at The Car Kitchen recommended this one to me recently and I really am happy with it. amzn.to/30m3WAZ

[@classicminidiy]

Sorry just realized you said dial indicator. The one I use is this one: amzn.to/3b9CRHi

[@rayp3262]

Hi, what are your long term thoughts of the evo 001 cam?

[@classicminidiy]

Hey! I loved this cam. It's an excellent choice for mild to aggressively tuned NA road cars. It produces a lot of usable torque and power and really shines in mountain carving and road driving.

[@rayp3262]

@@classicminidiy many thanks for the reply, I shall purchase one for my 1293, 11 stud head engine. 👍

[@rayp3262]

Not S, 1300gt.

[@Malcolm1985]

Hi, i have a 270/106 cam on my 1275 A+, do you think i need an offset key ?

[@classicminidiy]

If its anything besides standard you will need to degree it and make sure it matches the spec provided with the camshaft. You wont know for sure if you need one until you degree it and find out how much it is out of sync.

[@kevinparker5363]

I was always asked when i started out why the claw hammer 😂😂😂😂

[@josephberrie9550]

I have never seen such an absolute faf why is doing the timing so massively complicated on these engines

[@jrblocks1]

"A series" blocks have tappet covers" A+" blocks do not

[@classicminidiy]

You’ve got that backwards. The early a series blocks did not have removable rapper covers. The later A+ blocks did which allowed access to the lifters directly from the back of the motor.

[@timsminigarage]

@@classicminidiy Hi Cole, all the pre A+ small bore engines had the removable covers. The Cooper S 1275 block also had removable covers. The standard pre A+ 1275 engines (12G1279) were the first ones without removable covers

[@kevinparker5363]

Why the claw hammer ?

[@classicminidiy]

You use what ya have! 🤣

[@kevinparker5363]

Minis have always been poor , whats the atraction ?? 🧐