Operation Bad Wolf [Ep 20] - Servicing the SU Carburettors

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Parts in this Episode:
AH2 Needle - cmdiy.co/AH2Needle
Dual HS2/HS4 Kit - cmdiy.co/DualHS2HS4Kit
Single HS2 Kit - cmdiy.co/SingleHS2Kit
Single HS4 Kit - cmdiy.co/SingleHS4Kit
HIF4/HIF38 Kit - cmdiy.co/HIF4HIF38Kit
HIF6/HIF44 - cmdiy.co/HIF6HIF44Kit
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Social Links:
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Facebook - / classicminidiy Thanks for watching Classic Mini DIY! Please note Classic Mini DIY assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Classic Mini DIY recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, expensive electronics, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Classic Mini DIY, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Classic Mini DIY. Only attempt your own repairs if you can accept personal responsibility for the results, whether they are good or bad.

[@TornadoCAN99]

Good tutorial. Been trying to learn all I can on these carbs in anticipation of getting my first classic Mini (a '91 JDM with single carb). From another video channel, they stressed to make sure you keep all the parts from one carb together and not mix between carbs, especially the carb pistons & dashpots as these are low tolerance machines to match each other. Re Ultrasonic cleaner, very good for carb and other parts. One great tip I heard was to place the items into sealed plastic bags or plastic or glass jars, filled with the cleaning fluid, then just use water in the cleaner tub. That way you don't need to waste lots of specialty cleaner filling up the tub, getting it all nasty dirty. Also useful is using more caustic/smelly cleaners, (so they are not open to the air while cleaning). Cleaning is just as good as the sonic waves pass right through the bag/container into the fluid inside and then to your part. Especially helpful for small parts that don't need to have liters of tub cleaner fluid to do.

[@projectclassiccar9334]

Classic Mini Diy I learn a lot from watching your videos and I feel a lot more confident in tackling jobs myself. Very inspirational stuff, Cheers.

[@Mr61forfun]

Should have used compressed air to blow out all orifices. “Do- hicky- muh-thingy” is not the name of half the parts you attempted to identify. Lastly, not wise to mix the left and right parts. Often the bell housing ( Chamber & Piston) assemblies wear to a pattern. Mixing can cause them to hang up or not move fluently. I do appreciate you taking the time to film your experience rebuilding the HS2 💪🏽

[@user-hs3sq2jh6h]

S.U. carbs used Whitworth bolt heads in the 50s, 60s and early 70s, and not metrics till the late 70s. A 3/16 Whitworth is almost equal to 11 millimetres spanner. Imperial or A/F was not used on their carbs.

[@HaggisCat1]

All the SU carbs that I've worked on were BSF (British Standard Fine)/ Whitworth/ BA, some Metric wrenches will sort of fit, while others won't.

[@TheAdamwest29]

Recommend replacing those floats with the nitrophyl dipped foam core ones as those older ones tend to fail and then fill with fuel and become a weight causing fuel to overflow

[@alro2434]

CLEAN & lube the throttle shafts, they're full of sediment!! Some don't like lube, attracts dirt, but I do. It's needle & seat. Check/set the float level. Mark the left & right stuff, before disassembly, you only need to mark one side, the other defaults. Lucky you didn't disassemble all the throttle lever & choke stuff! The float lever pin is Knurled, the jet is brass, an alloy of copper & zinc, bronze is copper & tin and looks reddish not yellow. Had a 997, good luck.

[@akrilicwarlock]

Hey, I know its been a few years, but, did you have trouble getting the end of the old tube out of the bottom of the bowl? I cant seem to get it out.

[@mohabatkhanmalak1161]

I read in a car magazine years ago that you could fit Hitachi carburettor(s) and there would be a conversion kit for this. In carburettor days, the Japanese carburettors in general gave much better performance.

[@sachinnavod548]

I have a question, my car is a 1000cc one ita have a hs4 carb, it overflowed because the floating needle is damged, but now petrol comming out near the gasket that carburetor fix to the engine, what is the problem 😕

[@eiriktell3972]

Bit late on leaving a comment on this video, but I am now in the middle of rebuilding my HS4. You didn't really touch on it in these videos but I'm hoping you might have some insight on it regardless. I'm struggling with getting my throttle disc to seat correctly, it won't make a nice seal all the way round no matter wich orientation I put it in, and the issue only gets worse once I slightly tighten the small screws. I've tried looking around the internet on how to sort it out but I've only found the usual "Make sure it's correct" then there is no explanation on how to actually do it properly..

[@mikekovacs8981]

your "metric" fasteners might be English Whitworth

[@186scott]

I am rebuilding a set of twin hs2 the screws that connect the choke arms to the jet the heads have been damaged (impossible to get a screwdriver on it) by a previous owner and I had to carefully cut the heads off where can I get replacements or can it be any screw of a similar length and size?

[@johnobiro5202]

Nice 1.

[@snarfusmaximus]

I recently replaced the pin/sleeve valves in the HS2 float bowls in my MG Midget as one was dodgy and fuel was spewing into one of the carburettors when it shouldn't have. Rather than use the same style of valve, I put in these things called "grose jets" which use a ball bearing instead of a pin to stop the fuel flowing when the bowl is full. Apparently they're meant to be more reliable. So far, so good...

[@classicminidiy]

The ball bearing type were actually what were on it before I took these out. I might have to but the old ones in if they are in fact more reliable. Thanks for mentioning this!

[@snarfusmaximus]

Here's a bit of light reading on the topic - mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/cb112.htm

[@gilfoley7016]

Looking at your video since I picked up a 1963 Mini. What company did you get your rebuild kit for the H2 carbs. thanks

[@classicminidiy]

Hi! The carbs are actually HS2's rather than H2's and I got the rebuild kit from Seven Mini Parts. Here's a link to them on their website. www.7ent.com/products/carb-service-kit-twin-hs2-hs4-csk59.html?af=cmdiy1959

[@gilfoley7016]

@@classicminidiy thanks

[@velocity800]

One thing you haven’t discussed , which is very important is the wheel alignment..

[@classicminidiy]

That's would be a good one however I am of the mind that its worth the 100-150 bucks to bring it to an alignment shop. The amount of time it takes to do it manually just isnt worth it to me, same reason I bring my modern car to the dealer to have the oil changed. Hahaha

[@minisareus]

I would have changed needles and floats aswell

[@classicminidiy]

The floats were changed relatively recently and were in good shape. This car is already nickle and diming me to death! :-D Needles are being changed though.

[@RakTheGoose]

my 84 mini had a twist on sender, without screws.

[@classicminidiy]

Yup thats the later model tanks. They were a bit easier to replace than these early mk1 tanks.

[@eiriktell3972]

While we're on the topic of fuel senders. My fuelguage doesn't work, I have yet to have a look at it so it could potentially be something very simple. But if either of you have any pointers on what is likely to be causing this issue I would love to hear it :)

[@bigchiller95]

Hey M8, can you give a qick update on the showcases and the tshirt-contest/ intro-contest ? =P you haven't mentioned it for a long time.....

[@classicminidiy]

:-) Definitely! I will talk about it in the next episode.

[@thebluep0tat0]

Small suggestion...when working on small parts that you document, get camera closer.

[@classicminidiy]

Thanks for the feedback. I will do that in the future.

[@ShogunAutoworks]

No y'all....Jesus. y'all do realize that metric works on sae right? That's because metrics are so closely spaced there is always a metric that fits an sae almost 100% of the time. There are interchange tables on google. Something can weigh in kilos and pounds. Something can be a 9/16 and also a metric size. That doesn't mean parts are swapped out. It means that a metric measurement is equal or a hair close to an sae measurement. NOTHIN MORE

[@ShogunAutoworks]

All I use is metric sockets and wrenches you see what my car profile is? A 61 Fairlane. Go through my videos. Everything worked on with metrics. Buy less tools lose more 10mm. Oh well.

[@kennethhansen2308]

Living in Norway, where SAE tools are nowhere to be found in stores, I see this all the time: people are working on their own british or american vehicles with metric tools and its all the same, they have ruined a lot of the nuts and bolts because when a nut or bolt needs a bit of force to loosen, the metric tools are just a bit too small, and it usually ends up stripping the nut or bolt. Its about 50/50 chance. Eighter your nut or bolt come off, or it strips, making it almost impossible to get off. Its a common problem, so personally I have found that getting both sets of tools are worth it if you plan to do more than just minor adjustments. Especially since getting repacement SAE nuts and bolts are hard to get hold of here, since all you find is metric in the stores. But is up to you to do what you want :)