Oregon 410-120 Saw Chain Grinder | Reviving dull chainsaw chains with electric sharpener

[@bradlloyd358]

I have used one of these quite a bit - great tool to have for anyone using chainsaws - takes a little practice but you can’t beat a grinder for sharpening a chain

[@markboettcher9443]

I have never had an easy time sharpening a chainsaw. I’ve been heating with wood exclusively for over 40 years. That’s a lot of frustration sharpening the saw. I looked at the expensive sharpeners like you have, but could never justify that; I should just learn how to sharpen better right? But then I saw one at Harbor freight for $29.99. I thought I can waste $30 on that. It works great! Best $30 I’ve ever spent. Since I do all my cutting at home, I can always take it into the shop and take the chain off and sharpen it. And that is what I do. No more frustration. I am imagining that the expensive ones maybe somehow are easier to operate but for 30 bucks I’m happy.

[@rc391995]

There not easier to operate . its a more precise machine. Harbor freight has slop in the spindle and in the connection . I guarantee you're rocks back and forth. It maybe ever so slightly you don't think its a problem but its there. Knowing that you can use that to your advantage. Hold the head to the left for right hand cutters and to the right for left hand cutters . only thing I use a pink stone for is for rakers. . I do the first raker with a file and gauge. Then set the stone on that one to set depth . then barley tap it one half a second. If you grind till sparks reduce or longer you taking of to much material .They it one time and look at your tooth and feel guarante you won't tell the difference in either method jyst try to help save more chain and not take off mire than necessary. Your on there to long on a left hand cutter when you've built up slag on the top of the cutter. Don't believe me if you don't like just try it and see if it don't suit you.

[@garydamp6572]

Nice! I see you changed your down angle since the intro video. I also did the same. Nice trick with the upward bar tension. Love your shop. Stay safe!

[@sawingwithsandy]

Thanks Gary. Hope all is well

[@johnfulcher559]

Thank you for the info Bran Lloyd

[@danshouseofsmokeandoutdoor7119]

I can’t seem to get my 410 to hold 50 gauge chain tight. Always move when grinding. Wishing I went a different route.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hi Dan. There’s two Allen head bolts where the chain sits. Would tightening those up help?

[@trwilkinson4623]

Oregon, suggest that you have 2 chains, used alternatively for a clutch. That way all components wear together. Not advised to put a new chain on part worn sprocket. The pitch will be different & can cause premature wear / stretch to new chain. Old timers, liked the nearly worn out chain. The longer the clear gullet, the better the chips clear, thus more productive cutting. If bur removed & bars properly dressed ( square / level & no rail spread ) the worn chain cuts with a narrower kerf & less stress on the power head. Old school before sprocket nose bars, rule of thumb, 3 chains, 1 drive sprocket. 2 drive sprocket, 1 bar. 2 bars & the power head needed replacing. Quality of oil & manufacturing tolerances have improved a lot. Woodsmen often bought a new saw every year & other became backup. Clear shooting of videos & easy to follow speech. Interesting articles to watch.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Great points

[@lumberjill6598]

Stihl has an oilomatic lubrication system so no need to oil the bar which is nice. I have asked many people do these grinders harden the metal of the chain so you can't sharpen by hand? From the community comments it sounds like if you don't linger with the grinder to long it shouldn't be a problem.

[@trwilkinson4623]

Oilomatic does not mean you don't have to put oil in the tank. Understand that it referred to how oil is carried around the bar & up the drivelink to the chain rivets.

[@raincoast9010]

I used to have one of these and it eats up too much chain, i use a file exclusively and a few licks on each tooth keeps me cutting nicely. Also it drives the chrome into the base metal on the one side if you don't have a reversible one and then you can't file it by hand anymore.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Great tip. Thanks!

[@bradlloyd358]

The temptation is to try and take too much material at once - less is more 😉

[@rc391995]

You hit the nail on the head Bradley . you do like the last guy and you get slag you've taken to big a bite and your holding it down to long. I will say this ill take a file with me and touch it up 3 or 4 times before I put it on a grinder again. If your lucky and don't hit dirt or nails your chain is jyst naturally going to get dull for under the very best of circumstances. I do use a file like I say. But you hit old fence in a log a rock or dirt your chain is dull quicker than you can pull it away from such obstruction . I'm not trying to be a smart aleck or know it all. I do know what works against you though.

[@johnfulcher559]

Does that sharper burn the teeth and make them blue a little?

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hi John. It does cause some blueing on some teeth from time to time

[@bradlloyd358]

The trick to that is to just barely touch the tooth with the grinder - and don’t hold the grinder on the tooth - touch the tooth lightly two or three times and then move to the next tooth and repeat. Watch the very point of the tooth for a shiny spot - if you see one then your tooth is not sharp yet. Once you go around the chain once you can always advance your set screw a little and go around again. Don’t try to take to much material at once. Do both sides of your chain before advancing your set screw - it makes life a little easier and helps you stay away from a chain that wants to cut crooked. Always check your depth gauges after sharpening

[@garydamp6572]

In addition to grinding the minimum amount, clean the chains well BEFORE sharpening. The sap heats up the chrome plating and can burn it off quickly.

[@johnfulcher559]

@@garydamp6572 Thank you for your info

[@rc391995]

That's exactly what you get holding the grinder to long on the chain two taps both not over a second. And also the CBN wheels won't heat it up as quick as the pink chain. If you get it to hot with the CBN wheel you done it on purpose.

[@traviswarren7082]

Missing the ten degree tilt on the bottom tho bro!! None of the KZbin videos mention it

[@rc391995]

Yep you got a point on full chisel chains.

[@rc391995]

Don't mean to make anybody mad your taking off to much and hold your stone against the tooth to long. Get rid of the pink stone and spend the $105 and get the CBN STONES . THINK ABOUT HOW MANY CHAINS YOU SHARPEN WITH THAT PINK STONE. ops sorry about the cap lock . you'll not sharpen 100 chains with that pink stone even if you do it right. 50 would be pushing it. The CBN you'll get 700 to a 1000 chains sharpened when you set your angle run it up till the wheel just touches the tooth lock the cam. Don't turn grinder on take you hand and move stone one inch each way if you can do that without staring your guts you've got it right. . just try it one time with one Titans just tap it lightly twice if youll do that you like what you see a lot better. And when I say tap it twice I'm talking not even one second to include both taps. And I know 105 dollars is a for a wheel. You didn't squeeze your dollar when you bought that grinder you bought the best. Try the wheel and if you don't like it ill buy the wheel from you.

[@sawingwithsandy]

I haven't heard of those stones before but I"ll be sure to check them out.