Ortur Laser Master 3 - Is it an Xtool D1 killer?

[@JGV_IX]

Hi there, ORTUR listened to you! Bought a LM 3 a few weeks ago and the Wi-Fi connects to the network and I can use it anywhere in my house/workshop. Really awesome for a first time user. Thanks for your video and the review - helped me decide on the LM 3. Take care and God bless!

[@SteveMakesEverything]

I'm sure I wasn't the only voice, but this is great news. I guess I should update the firmware on the one I have.

[@Bo_Hazem]

Thank you for your honest review. Most others seem to have a bias towards Xtool for some reason.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Well I do like the Xtool D1 Pro, but for the money, the LM3 is best of breed

[@Bo_Hazem]

@@SteveMakesEverything Yup, and I think the extension kit is a killer feature as well. Thanks a lot for your amazing content!

[@johnworthington7369]

Thank you for doing a side-by-side . you're the first one I've seen do it, really good information

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Glad it was helpful!

[@chuckstrunk3746]

You have helped me greatly on which machine to buy for my 1st laser. Thanks for a great video!!

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Cool that’s all I can hope for

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

*Hey Steve, thanks for the hard work!* You're confirming everything I have been saying for a long time now. Oh, and hey, in Lightburn, edit the $74 & $75 values to your Wi-Fi SSID and password and you can use the WebUI from any computer on the network!

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Awesome, this is useful. Your channel is great too! 😁

[@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy]

@@SteveMakesEverything Thank you Sir!

[@pnkgem24]

This was such an informative video. I ordered the D1 20 watt about 2 weeks ago. After seeing this video, I'm definitely having buyer's remorse. Thanks fo the great video.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Fear not, you won't regret the D1 Pro. Keep in mind, the D1 Pro and the D1 are essentially different lasers and the 20W D1 Pro will do everything you're going to need to do. I have one sitting on my workbench at the moment and it looks pretty exciting - a full review is forthcoming

[@pnkgem24]

@@SteveMakesEverything thanks! Looking forward to the review.

[@ABWOrturLaser]

Steve is right, despite my dislikes and opinions doing its intended job of engraving and cutting…it does both really top class ( depending on the user settings)! My main moan is the lack of attention / salution to the wiring looms. Ortur are not stupid! They cloned the xtool, and I am other makers are in the process…but made improvements on the wiring, stayed with Home being front left, built in Air Assist and more! I am thinking of de-sleeving the wiring looms and splicing in an extra 100mm or more which would enable the Y loom to drop down from the board and outside the frame. Hoping that have just the wires, a slim drag chain should be possible.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

@@ABWOrturLaser I may frame this comment because I'm so infrequently "right" - at least that's what my wife tells me😀

[@markferrick10]

Great review. I do disagree on 1 point. I happen to like the 2020 extrusions. It easily enables me to enlarge the print size. The standard 400x400 can be limiting in some applications. As usual, enjoy your content. Thanks.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

😀I was waiting for this comment. No question that beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

[@jasonhurdlow6607]

There's an extension kit coming for this, but it only extends one dimension. 40cm on the short side is at least 10cm too small for my needs. But I agree that using standard extrusions is superior to this proprietary stuff, looks are secondary to function.

[@bunch8]

Standard extrusions are a big advantage when I'm making a decision. Eventually those standard extrusions can be repurposed for many other projects, even furniture. It breaks my heart when I see proprietary 3d printer and laser printer frames being thrown away. Thanks for the video!

[@SteveMakesEverything]

@@bunch8 Well this is an aspect I hadn't considered

[@raybarlow8823]

I really liked your video, thank you. I watched it twice. Very Informative and you almost got me sold on this thing.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

My goal is to provide information rather than sell you on something. 😁

[@gameonuk9169]

Amazing, absolutely amazing, thanks Steve, I do enjoy these type of comparisons. I had been contemplating purchasing a diode laser for some time. I believe this could be the one. As always Steve excellent video. 👌👍

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Thanks. I went into a bit more detail than I originally planned on the results, but I felt that I needed to explain the stark differences. Make no mistake, both of these are very fine lasers but they have their own personalities

[@CorbyQ]

This might be the one I eventually go for.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

I know you can still get the OLM3 but I think they are just selling stock. Ortur. Really has t done much lately because a big piece of that team left to form AlgoLaser.

[@kylezakk]

I wonder how my new Ortur laser master 2 pro s2 with a lu2-10a laser head compares to the Xtool D1.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Well I have both. Of the group of entry level lasers I prefer the Ortur, though it’s really in a different market segment than the Xtool lasers. The lu2-10 will do decent grayscale - at least on the olm3. By contrast true grayscale is weaker on the 10w and 20w modules, but the 40W laser does great grayscale. Of course the Xtool lasers are all much more expensive.

[@kylezakk]

​@@SteveMakesEverything Thankyou for the info, I didn't know there were 40W diode lasers on the market. I was looking at a 40W K40 co2 laser since it didn't cost that much more but I needed the large work size and didn't want to deal with the added maintenance and complexity.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

@@kylezakk Actually, diode lasers are heading toward 56W this year. 🙂. Ironically if you're looking at a K40 CO2 it will be quite a bit cheaper than a comparably powered diode laser, though it will require some additional components as well. From a maintenance perspective, a K40 will be more intense than pretty much any diode laser, but it will be faster to engrave and can work with acrylics. Either way, you will get some solid capabilities to get you started on your journey.

[@uberwootage]

LM3 also has a smaller spot size so that is also a contributing factor to it's cutting power. What eliminated the LM3 from my list is the same thing that eliminated the Atomstack X20. Urethane rollers. Tighten too much get flat spots. Not enough get slop. LM3 is nice and works great. However the Xtools are just built better and more through went into the design.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

The D1 is definitely well designed and built, and no one would be disappointed with either the D1 or OLM3

[@chribrian]

While I agree I would rather have metal rollers I'll take the vastly better engraving, cutting and have to occasionally change $10 urethane rollers if I happen to over tighten them. I had to do that with my first 3d printer due to overtightening them but haven't done so since

[@uberwootage]

​@@chribrian Vastly? Coworker has the LM3. I can tell you for a fact my M1 is much better in regards to cutting and engraving. spot size measured on NIST traceable equipment was 46um. My M1 managed to cut .06mm stainless in a single pass 5mm/s faster then his LM3. engraving was more detailed "my units spot size is smaller then his his was larger then there advertised 50um he was 65um" And it cut 250um alumina where he could not. Focus is everything and with how they focus the tolerances of the parts that spot size vary. IF you dig into the actual diode and lenses you would be surprised. He could have a under preforming D1 and a average LM3 or a Good LM3. Could be a average D1 and a really good LM3. My coworkers i would say is average and my M1 is a really good unit based that auto focus gives my a .63um spot size on average and if i set the focus manually im in the mid 40's what is extremely good.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

@@chribrian I won't argue with this. I prefer steel rollers as well - they are good for a lifetime and if your laser is part of any sort of business, they will serve you well.

[@castlecodersltd]

Great video, thanks for doing it. ☺ I'd buy an Ortur 10W Laser Master 3 in a heartbeat but they don't give an option for a UK plug just US, EU and AU options. Yet they give the UK plug option for the air pump in their accessories section. 🤦‍♂ I've tried contacting their support by email and online chat. No response. Makes me wonder what their support would be like if I had a problem

[@SteveMakesEverything]

I can’t comment on their support in the UK, but the power brick should be able to handle any input voltage if you have a standard equipment cord to plug it into the wall.

[@castlecodersltd]

@@SteveMakesEverything thanks Steve. I've finally heard back from their support. They said that if I order a EU one they'll know from my address to change it to a UK plug. Like you said it takes 110-240V so it's just the lead which needs changing out. Thanks again for your video. I ordered one this morning ☺

[@onsapplikasies8620]

Very informative. Thank you.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Hope it helps with your decision process

[@patberry3388]

Great videos. I have been working with lasers for several years and never knew about the Borax product. I am going to try it out if I can find it. Your videos are great and think the things you do are amazing. I am an older person who really does not want to have any type of business but, I do things for people on request. I also have a Shopbot CNC router and combined with my laser can pretty much accomplish everything. Keep these videos coming.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

If you can't find Borax (it's banned in some places) then try Baking Soda. It's not as nice to work with, but will amplify the engraving effect. Either way, after engraving spray the work with a couple good coats of flat clearcoat to ensure some permanence

[@StArFuRyZz]

I had a 2.5w laser (Eleksmakr) about 4 years ago. It was...well junk. Slow, software was bad. I even bought Lightburn and it was terrible to use (but that may have been me too.) I've been debating getting another to engrave cutting boards I make. I like the way the laser goes to the 0,0 location automatically so reproducing jobs would be easy and it also looks like the Lightburn software has improved quite a bit - every review I've seen it's the one used. This seems like one of the best options for a fast machine that won't break the bank.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

All of the modern lasers have come so far, especially in the past 2 years. They are getting far more powerful and reliable and the software, like Lightburn, is exceptional.

[@mkkd85]

Hello Steve, thanks for the videos and for informing us. Please try to get a hold of TwoTrees TS2 laser in order to compare it with the OLM3. Greetings from Bosnia!

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Will do. Welcome back from Canada 🍁! What I love about running this channel is the ability to connect to people from all over the world. At least we can all be united is some way.

[@nuevoinvolve]

Do I need 20w just to cut cardboard, or I should go with ORTUR3?

[@SteveMakesEverything]

If you are just cutting cardboard even a 5W would work. What the extra power buys you is speed

[@thebestsoccer2063]

NEJE 3 max e40 or d1 pro 5w laser???

[@SteveMakesEverything]

I don’t think you can go wrong with either, though I’d personally lead toward the D1Pro. However either way, I would recommend at least a 10W laser rather than a 5 if your budget can handle it.

[@catnippetsitting]

Hi Steve! Just ordered my laser using your affiliate link and coupon code. So excited! I binge watched your channel last night. This is my first baby step to starting a small business locally and hoping to eventually grow into a CO2 soon. Thanks so much for all of your expertise and helping others with your channel. Any ideas on what enclosure to buy or anything else you might recommend to purchase? if you have an affiliate link I will certainly buy it through you. Thanks again - Blessings to you! ❤

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Thanks for helping out the channel and I hope you love this laser. As far as enclosures, you could certainly build one for this with a few pieces of acrylic and a small fan/tubing. I do't know if Ortur has an enclosure for this yet - it's a bit bigger than their other lasers

[@QuotidianStupidity]

How is the small business working out for you? Just weighing up diode vs C02 myself

[@CharlieBoxman]

Steve. You claimed that it is hundreds of dollars cheaper. But yet I looked up th D1 pro and Ortur M3. And they are the same price. So where is the price difference. Also It seams the D1 has a better roller system. Especially for coffee mugs

[@SteveMakesEverything]

You can buy the OLM3 right now for $650 either direct from Ortur or use a discount code (I provided one in the description). The basic Xtool D1 10W is normally in the $850 range, though it's currently on sale for $699 - no doubt due to the OLM3 eating into their sales. The bonus for all of us is that these are both fantastic lasers so you will win either way, but I do think that the OLM3 currently has the edge on price/performance

[@LamNguyen-bv5cf]

I'd go for xtool d1. I have 10watt mod, but just upgraded to 20watt. With the options of RA2 pro and frame extension will give you twice working area.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

@@LamNguyen-bv5cf You won't hear me argue between the OLM3 and XTool D1 since both are pretty awesome in their own way. I love the design and ease of use of the D1 and using steel rollers on rods sets the D1 apart from most. You would never go wrong buying one of these, especially if your major use cases are cutting or basic engraving or you need solid reliability for a small business However if you want consistency across the power range and you want to engrave higher quality photos, then I would lean toward the OLM3. Once you upgrade to the 20W D1 then you are in an entirely different league. I'm working on a review for the D1 Pro and for cutting many types of material it blows away even many CO2 lasers. Note that the RA2 Pro, which is my favorite rotary attachment ever, will work with pretty much every laser - even most CO2 lasers. I would recommend this regardless of the OLM3 vs D1 discussion.

[@ovidiocalvet]

and in steel ? did you tested ?

[@SteveMakesEverything]

When you refer to steel I assume you are talking about stainless steel. If so, then yes, the laser engraved on stainless nicely.

[@ovidiocalvet]

@@SteveMakesEverything wooo thanks i will like to have it to engrave my knives check out my chanel may be u like it to

[@SteveMakesEverything]

@@ovidiocalvet It will certainly do this if they are stainless blades. You could coat the blade with Cermark or similar material and mark it as well. I've looked at your channel and I'm now inspired to build myself a knife. You make some great-looking knives!

[@adamcolville2057]

Hi steve , ive just started watching your channel and i think ive now binged watched the lot😂 the way you explain things is so much better than most , can i ask a question please? I have a small airsoft business here in the uk ( its a side line to the day job) and ive been looking at lasers for such a long time now for ingraving magazine’s/ sides of the guns etc and also want to cut some acrylic key fobs with my logo on ( zipper pulls) for bags etc etc , ive looked at the D1 pro / sculpfun / atomstack and now the ortou lm3 its so confusing i think a 10watt is sufficient for my needs but the 20watt units look like they also unleash a lot more potential for future projects if i asked you to pick just one what would it be ? Many thanks for reading this adam

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Hi Adam, welcome to the channel and thanks for the endorsement. This is why I created this channel. Now to your questions. First if you're looking at diode lasers and want to cut, then more power is always best (10W is a great start, 20W is better) and you would also want a laser with air assist since it greatly improves cutting ability and quality. However if you want to cut acrylic, then the material matters too. Diode lasers have some limits on cutting anything that is transparent, so if you want to cut acrylic, darker colours (e.g. black) is best.

[@drdave611]

I know I'm being lazy by not doing my own research, but do you happen to have the different wavelengths for these two lasers available? (I don't have either, as I'm currently using a Sculpfun S9 laser on a home built frame. But, I'm pretty familiar with the actual diodes as developing that technology was my career for several decades... )

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Most diode laser will be in the 445-465nm range. I don’t have the specific wavelengths for then handy but I can dig them out if you can’t find them

[@drdave611]

@@SteveMakesEverything I checked the specs and both are specified to be 455 +/-5 nm.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

@@drdave611 Hmm, I'm old so I question everything my eyes see. 😀. So I went to the workshop to have a look and the laser module on the D1 one is indeed 455nm, but 3 different Ortur 10W modules I have all claim to be 445nm. But what's 10nm's between friends? LOL

[@drdave611]

@@SteveMakesEverything well, that's indeed interesting... it would appear that the Ortur laser doesn't meet its own specs... If they are really 445nm, as labeled, one could speculate that the slightly shorter wavelength could contribute to better engraving performance-- the 405nm units from various sources definitely show that advantage, despite their much lower power. However, it's probably not that simple. The emission wavelength also depends on the chip's actual junction temperature which is, of course, directly impacted by the airflow and the output power. I suppose it's a pretty esoteric question, but I wonder whether the fact that they are piping the air assist directly through the module case could play a role... Lots of possibilities to go down that rabbit hole, I suppose. Thanks for confirming the actual marked wavelengths.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

@@drdave611 I wouldn't assume piping the air assist through the module would have and impact on engraving, though if Ortur engineers were smart, they could use it for cooling the laser diodes. While the OLM3 does seem to be the leader in engraving quality at the moment, it's probably not due to the wavelength, but rather much better control over the power. What I don't know, and may investigate at some point, is if all laser modules are equal. I have 3 10W ortur laser modules and and may try doing the same test with each to see if the outputs are identical or if there are deviations from one module to the next.

[@3DJapan]

Here I'm watching this thinking "boy my D1 does so much better than this". Then I remembered my D1 is 20watt.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

😁 Ha. I have the D1 Pro sitting on my workbench waiting for some time to review it. It’s definitely a workhorse

[@cccs777]

Hi Steve, I'm thinking of getting this or spending the extra for the Xtool D1 Pro. Is the Xtool pro worth double the cost for someone starting out? I do want to eventually get into a larger Co2 and/or a 50w fiber but just wanting to learn the basics for now and also learn Lightburn. Thank you for all your Vids, they are very helpful!

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Always a good question. If your plan is to mostly engrave things like grayscale photos then I would pick the OLM3 hands down. But if you want to do heavy duty cutting, then I would pick the D1Pro 20w. What you get for the extra money on a D1Pro is a more industrial frame, rails and rollers. This makes it largely indestructible but also allows the laser to operate much faster, which is a great investment with the 20W module

[@cccs777]

@@SteveMakesEverything thank you!

[@PCJ52]

Hi Steve, Thanks for a very informative video. One thing I'm not clear about is how long it takes to do an engraving. I'm particularly interested in how long it took to engrave the lighthouse on plywood. I'm shopping for an engraver and the Laser Master 3 seems perfect, but I have no idea if this type of engraving takes 10 minutes or 2 hours. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!

[@SteveMakesEverything]

This depends on many factors: the size of the engraving, the material and the laser settings to name a few. In my video, the lighthouse on wood took about 30 minutes, though I was using relatively high image quality and it is a grayscale which will take quite a bit longer. You could certainly engrave this faster with the right compromises

[@PCJ52]

@@SteveMakesEverything Perfect, thank you!

[@SteveMakesEverything]

@@PCJ52 Happy to help.

[@andreagate542]

Thank you for a great analysis on these machines! did you do any speed comparisons?

[@SteveMakesEverything]

I didn't specifically test speeds. All lasers of similar power will be very similar speeds - certainly within an acceptable margin.

[@markalvintasico3979]

The price difference for xtool d1 pro 10w and OLM3 is huge, can't really decide which machine is better.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Well if you are not running a high-volume business or you want to do lots of photo engraving, then my choice would be the OLM3. If you are doing lots of hard core cutting or working in volume, then I'd pick the D1 Pro

[@markalvintasico3979]

@@SteveMakesEverything okay cool thanks!

[@Samson_Customs]

Steve I just bought a new artur 3. I have the two. I have a problem right now with no Laser need help.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

You can shoot me an email - see description below

[@gokartmozart1567]

Does the laser master 3 have an extension kit?

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Indeed it does

[@gokartmozart1567]

@@SteveMakesEverything thanks for the reply. i subscribed

[@johncbrownmd]

hi Steve and thanks for the videos. I need a laser to do pen engraving and I will need a roller attachment. Should I go with the Ortur Laser Master 3 or the X tool 10-20 watt with RA 2 Pro Rotary attachment Or a combination of the two. I was set on the X tool until I saw your video about the Ortur. Thanks

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Either of these lasers will do what you want plus a lot more. If engraving is your goal then you don’t need 20w and even 10w will be more than enough. In fact for basic engraving you could even find a cheap 5W laser. The RA2 Pro will work with any laser so you can assume it in your calculations.

[@johncbrownmd]

@@SteveMakesEverything thanks for the advice.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

@@johncbrownmd Hope it helps you with your choice

[@vortexprintworks7605]

xTool has much more innovations than otur and a 20w available at the moment with limit switches in my book this laser is already obsolete compared to the xTool D1 Pro, hard pass looks nice though maybe if they had a 20w version available it can compete

[@SteveMakesEverything]

@@vortexprintworks7605 The OLM3 uses more modern current detection to determine limits. This is actually better since there are no optical or physical switches. But with either laser you get the function of detecting limits, which is a victory regardless in my book

[@omarpimentel5061]

Does it come with air assist, ir is that a separate buy?

[@SteveMakesEverything]

The air assist mechanics are built into the laser module. You will need to small air pump however. Otur has one as to most other laser companies and any of these will work on pretty much any air-assist equipped laser.

[@omarpimentel5061]

So you need to buy the air assist pump like on the xtool d1.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

@@omarpimentel5061 Indeed you do.

[@ABWOrturLaser]

A lot of the makers are now offering AA air pumps/compressors @ $100 plus. Fact is any pet shop selling fish tanks or pond air pumps, these can be and are used to good effect. 45-70litre capacity should be just fine for AA…and cost less! I …and many others bought the compressor type the makers offer, off eBay / Amazon etc at half the prices makers are charging. Check the pet shops first!

[@SteveMakesEverything]

@@ABWOrturLaser Yes, aquarium pumps or even hydroponic air pumps will work just find for $40-60.

[@learnMax]

Something seems off in the D1 etchings compared to what I've personally seen with mine. I wonder if it's a compatibility with lightburn issue.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Keep in mind, what I was trying to do here is keep the settings between lasers as close as possible, rather than being focused on making the best engraving for a particular laser. Certainly with the D1 you can tweak the lower power settings to ~15% and the upper to 45% or so and get decent results. The big "However" though is that with the OLM3 you can, for the most part, literally just drop material on, leave the default power settings and start. The results will always be decent because OLM3's laser module fires up at 1-5% power. This isn't a case of one laser being better than the other, but more about buying the right laser for your use case. For example I'm working on the D1 Pro review at the moment and I'd probably never use it if my business was mostly engraving grayscale photos. Like the 10W D1 it starts generating engraving power at about 12-15% power, but on a 20W laser that's ~3W, which is enough to serious score birch plywood. But if your business was focused on engraving logos onto stainless steel product then the D1 Pro would win every time.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

I really should try a greyscale image on the xtool software though to see what the difference is.

[@zakspop]

Agreed about the wifi. My Atomstack wifi is useless.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Yes. The laser manufacturers need to think more like ink-jet printer companies

[@RussW51]

Can you tell us where we can get the mirrored acrylic? Maybe a future video on engraving mirrored acrylic.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

In Canada I got it from Plastic World (plasticworld.ca/product-category/plastic-sheets/acrylic-mirror/) but I'm sure most acrylic supplier will have it.

[@pelham4477]

how does the OLM3 compare with the Ray5 10w?

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Well, now you're going to make me do work. 🤣. I haven't tried comparing to the Ray5 10W. My initial plan for this video was to compare 4 of the top 10W lasers including the Ray5 but I ran into so many challenges dealing with differences in the OLM3 and D1 that I ate up all the time I had budgeted for this. I'll at least run the speed vs power test with the same settings and post it when I get a minute

[@beowulfab]

I was wondering the same thing. I saw his video on the Ray5 10W and was planning on buying it.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

​@@beowulfab I'll try to get a power/speed comparison done over the weekend. But you wouldn't be disappointed with the 10W Ray 5 either.

[@kevinb2939]

Can you please post your speed and power test file - I have been looking for a simple file and have not found a very basic file like what you have in the video - thanks - great vid btw

[@SteveMakesEverything]

I can. I just created a new one that is more compatible with a larger set of diode lasers

[@matthewbickham4065]

Oh man just saw this video today. But I bought the x tool and it will be here tomorrow.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Fear not. The D1 is a fine laser too. The comparison here is really just highlighting a difference in the power ranges, but both lasers can be set to do exactly the same jobs. I was just hoping to use the same settings for both.

[@chrisabraham8793]

I was about to buy a laser Ortur pro, so now its a 3.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

If those are your choices, I would buy the 3 as well

[@ABWOrturLaser]

Had an Xtool D1 Pro 10w. Was OK for 4 days…if I do not mention the problems with the rubbish Y wiring trailing and due to home being back left, it kept bunching up behind the X motor hung under the X rail and prevent it to hit the soft end switch leaving the motor churning the belt? Or the zip ties fitted so the ratchet lock head…is over the work area and gets wacked! Yes, ignore those problems…but the big one, I could not! Homing suddenly created vibrations and a knocking noise. Support were quick to get involved and reacted in only 4 days, better the the machine sleeping and resting for 5 days while I waited for tool to email me a new Welcome file that sits on a micro SD and reacts..they say..to using the reset button…..did nothing to ease my life! Short version after just over 3 weeks and a trail of 68 emails…They agreed a refund which the ignored on day 6. i I used the refund to buy….the Outur machine that will force Xtool to cut their prices and improve their pathetic “support”.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

This is why being part of a community matters - we can share experiences. I did have a minor cabling issue on the X axis but I adjusted the cabling so it’s out of the way and it’s been solid ever since. The Ortur is a fine machine too so you probably won’t regret that purchase

[@ABWOrturLaser]

@@SteveMakesEverything lol, first day in use I decided the wiring needed help. That oversize mesh sleeve created most of the problem. I actually ordered some wrap around ..it forms a tube, which would have improved the wiring mess..but before it arrived, the big problem kicked in. I will say that in the time it was working, its really good …unlike. Xtool support who take days to respond to buyers with issues. I have had OLM 2 Pro S2 for almost 18 months, it is still a good 5 watt out laser.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

@@ABWOrturLaser Indeed support is the most important feature any company can deliver. xTool support has historically been pretty good, but I think all the Covid restrictions in China killed a lot of companies' ability to support customers. I love the OLM 2 Pro S2. I still have mine and was using it for some specific purposes, though it is currently on loan to help a newbie come up to speed and decide if a laser is the right tool for his shop. BTW he loves it too!

[@jasonhurdlow6607]

The wifi issues may have been due to being too close, try moving a few feet away.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Well I’m normally several feet away. I moved closer because I was having this connection issue. My laser was a pre-release unit so it have been hardware or software issues

[@IronMan-yg4qw]

compare this to the neje master 3 max !! neje is way cheaper and is 12 watt. also ya gotta include air assist to be a fair cpmparison.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

As explained, my D1 is a stock unit without air assist so I tested it the way it came in the box. I agree that air assist is essential in all new lasers and I now available for the D1 as well. It would be nice to compare the NEJE as well because I’ve heard good things

[@IronMan-yg4qw]

@@SteveMakesEverything hot a fair comparison if one has air assist and one doesnt! you gotta be fair man!! and compare neje! :]

[@SteveMakesEverything]

@@IronMan-yg4qw Since air assist really only impacts cutting, the comparison is still reasonable. As noted, I purposely didn't try to just do a cut through maple, since the air-assist would unfairly help the OLM3 get through 1/4" of maple in 2 passes. All of this becomes less important we we move toward 20W and now even 30W diode lasers. All of those will have air assist for no other reason than to avoid fires.

[@IronMan-yg4qw]

@@SteveMakesEverything true ,.. only for cutting comparisons do u ned air assist.

[@jacobcharron]

@@SteveMakesEverything Who has 30w diode lasers? Thanks for great videos

[@vortexprintworks7605]

the D1 Pro is out with a 20w laser available Otur is already still behind and losing

[@SteveMakesEverything]

The 20W D1 Pro is indeed an awesome laser and it helps xtool leap ahead again. Not sure that Ortur is losing though - they sell a ton of lasers, so might actually be winning on revenue.

[@TalkingGIJoe]

so your comment about price is 100% where the market is for this type of product... the price is everything for a hobbyist... simple as that.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Yes, the OLM3 is priced very competitively against the XTOOL D1.

[@Badx95]

Ortur just copies Xtool plain and simple

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Well I'm not sure I totally agree. We are in a world where companies are routinely leapfrogging each other. No question Ortur got a bit of an education on the Xtool D1, but they added limit switches to the OLM3 before Xtool did (and they are a better approach IMHO) and Ortur has a better air assist system. Now Xtool just announced an infrared laser module for marking pretty much any metal surface a whole lot better. It looks like an awesome addition, especially if you are considering a fibre laser for several $K. When companies try to stay ahead of each other, we are the ones who win, so I'm OK with it. The auto industry has been doing this for decades, which is why even the cheapest car you can buy, has electric windows, air bags, etc.

[@herkleslie4561]

niiiiiiiiice job!!!!!!!

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Thanks!

[@AT-os6nb]

who cares what it looks like as long as it works great!.......ego anyone???...on a positive note, appreciate you skipping the in boxing assembly b.s.. g

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Sometimes I win the unboxing argument - sometime I have to do it.