OS FS 61 break to fix

[@wojtekzimolag6668]

hi, good afternoon , i like restoring old model engines and i also had a few cases of pin stuck in the piston. My method is that - i clean the engine first - wherever i can get to, e.g. combustion chamber, crankcase. Then I mount the engine on the stand and start it - it works at different speeds - until the fuel in the tank runs out. Against a stuck piston pin there is no better method than mechanical and thermal stress in a running engine. After the engine is running, the pin begins to move freely in the connecting rod and piston. I've had 6-7 cases of a stuck pin - and this method has always helped me. BTW, this OSFS61 engine is interesting - I can't find this information now, but I read, several years ago, that a properly prepared model with this engine flew across the ocean from the USA to Europe /Great Britain?/. The engine was converted to spark ignition and ran on a mixture of gasoline and oil. All the best in 2023

[@wojtekzimolag6668]

I found this information!! : en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Spirit_of_Butts%27_Farm

[@crazyengines88]

Thank you very much for your kind comment and advice ! It is very interesting method to free up the stacked piston pin, really and thank you very much for your advice. Unfortunately, this way will not work with few of my engines, due to the simple fact, that all of them had also piston rings stacked in piston groove (due to the usage of a castor oil). And here we got the problem - how to start an engine without compression ? I was try to make this several times by adding a lot of a consistent oil into cylinder - liner, to increase compression level. Engine sometimes could start, but will stall in a few seconds \ dozens of seconds, because piston ring is still stacked into groove. Kind of non working Perpettum mobile...

[@crazyengines88]

@@wojtekzimolag6668 Thank you, much appreciated !

[@MarkSmith-nw4os]

Sir, using that loading press for assembly is a great idea. Especially since I own two of them. I would not think to take a Dremel to the connecting rod. Looks like you had a very expensive but rewarding project.🙃

[@crazyengines88]

Hi, and thank you a lot for your nice comments ! Definitely, I spent a tens of hours trying to extract deadly stacked piston pin, and every unsuccessful hour really makes me incredibly upset. But one time, one of my subscribers, which is really very nice guy and high skilled aviation technician, tells me "heat it more, for higher temperatures". This advice was given to me unfortunately, after my conrod cutting adventure. Should say, that I've almost own two OS FS 61 engines in addition, both were in the same terrible stacked piston pin condition, Using my friend Tom's advice to heat it more, both of them were successfully repaired and right now all 3 is in exactly "like new" condition. So, I pay, of course, a little more (especially, if take into consideration, that all parts becomes museum rare to find items), but thanks to Tom's advice, I've got an exceptional repair skills. So, it is up to you, to make a conclusion of that story. Thank you and have a nice day !

[@homienat3374]

Hi mate i brought a os fl 70 which was gummed up like that to the max ,it toom me a week to get it apart ,i used old fuel and heat gun ,soack repeat for days until wrist pin freed up it was a nightmare great vid nice job on engine 👍👍👍

[@crazyengines88]

Thank you very much for your comment ! You're totally right - this engine was a kind of a nightmare for me, heat gun and soaking over a week in kerosene doesn't helps at all. I found, that it would be cheaper to cut conrod, that to pay a psychologist to recover me 😃.

[@GeorgiaBoyJake]

I'm working on a FS-52 that I can't get out the wrist pin. Looks like i might have to cut my connecting rod also, that is if I can find a replacement!!

[@crazyengines88]

Hi, and thanks a lot for your comment ! Please, don't do that ! I found the way, how to extract it. Mostly, the reason of deadly staked pin - an old polymerized castor oil residue. At normal. room temp it's like a resin or old glue. But if you will well prepared, you will win ! I've consequentially 3 OS FS 61 engines, in one ( with the first one) I was obliged to cut the conrod. But with others I decide to warm up the top of the piston by a small, thin flame focused gas torch (like a turbo lighter for cigars). I heated the top of the piston pin until was able to pull out the piston pin. It works, just take care about open fire and control the temp of the piston surface. I heated it a lot, was very afraid of possible melting. But it works, and was worked 3 times, 2 for deadly FS61 and 1 for deadly FS40. Good luck and have a nice day !

[@tombutler4816]

Looking for valve collet for OS FS-61. Any ideas? Thx.

[@crazyengines88]

Thank you for your question ! I'm not sure, that I exactly understand your question. Do you need the valve saddle for FS 61 ? It means, bronze insert at the top of the cylinder head, where the valve is moving ? Appreciated for more clarification. Have a nice day !

[@jurgenblume5179]

Great video and terrific job. Tranks a lot for sharing. This is just another example what castor can cause inside an engine. Just don‘t need that. I‘ll keep on using high quality synthetics.

[@crazyengines88]

Great ! Great comment and much appreciated you for that ! Exactly, hi quality synth oil is only the way to prevent engines from such destiny. Frankly speaking, I've two more OS engines with such syndrome - deadly stacked piston pin. That's was a reason, why I asking my viewers about some other advices. Probably, Mr. David McIntire, with his enormous engine repair experience, could give us an advice. But to ne honest - if you can't remove deadly stacked piston pin - you can't proceed further with engine repair. So this experience is highly valued.

[@IbnAir23]

What oil were you using to drip into the certain compartments as you rebuild it?

[@crazyengines88]

Hi, and thank you for your question ! Usually, I prefer after run oil, my own formulation, which consist of an 1/3 equal parts of 1. Three-in-one oil 3inone.com/product/3-in-one-multi-purpose-oil/ 2. Mobil ATF Dexron VI www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-dexron-vi-atf 3. Motul Micro 2T synthetic oil www.motul.com/sv/en/products/micro-2t or Klotz Gas Burner klotzlube.com/shop/ols/products/xn-rc-modelube-gasburner-u4ak Some of mine subscribers also utilizing this formulation, especially, to fill the engines into long time storage.

[@dmrcflyr2]

I am shocked that you cut the connecting rod! Did you even try using heat and oil to free up the piston pin?? It sure didn’t look like it on the video. Unbelievable…. Not the best of ideas since replacement parts for these engines are getting harder and harder to come by.

[@xKmotx]

Very clever use of a reloading press. :)) Well, cutting the connecting rod was a pretty extreme method of "repair". But in the end the engine was running again so it's all good. I would try directed heat. IE, instead of putting the whole engine into an oven I would use a pencil torch, with a pinpoint flame aimed at the piston pin directly and just burn the castor residue into ash. After letting it cool, put in the ultrasonic cleaner bath again with hot water and dish soap. If that still was a problem, instead of a drywall screw I would use a thread cutting tap and cut some threads inside the piston pin and then screw in a machine bolt. Once again some heat and the torque of turning the bolt would probably break it free.

[@crazyengines88]

Thank you very much for your great advices ! I should say, that I was try several methods (direct heating, heating in the owen, trying to make a thread inside piston pin), but there was very hard case, that's was the reason, why I decide to cut the conrod. B.T.W., it was practically new. Once again, that you for your advices, much appreciated, will try it for the next repairs - I've few more OS engines with exactly the same syndrome, no compression, stacked piston ring and staked piston pin.

[@xKmotx]

@@crazyengines88 Okay. Such a stubborn engine! Well, there is one more method to mention, however it is hazardous. That is to get an electric pot, what we call a "crock pot", and use engine coolant, anti-freeze, straight from the jug. Heat it as hot as the crockpot will go and soak your disassembled engine parts for several hours. You must be careful not to let any animals get to spilled coolant, and you must never use the crockpot for food ever again. And you must do this in a well ventilated area.

[@crazyengines88]

@@xKmotx Thank you very much for your advice ! I was started step by step all the methods mentioned. First attempt was give to soak into special oil paint solvent. Will wait for 3 days, than will put it into ultrasonic bath again. Will warm up until 44-50 degrees. If it will not works, your next advice will be applicated.

[@aSpyIntheHaus]

Great work. It can be quite disappointing when you get a eBay purchase like this home and realise the extent of what "used" is really is.

[@crazyengines88]

Friendly speaking, I was found the way, how to pull out any (I hope, that any) deadly stacked piston pin in OS engines. But that knowledge were obtained after that case. I've one more OS FS 61 engine with the same problem, I was able to pull the stacked piston pin out without cutting it. But you will need to have s steel nervs :-)

[@alessandrobertoncini1137]

Grande come sempre

[@crazyengines88]

Grazie mille per i tuoi commenti, molto apprezzati! Grazie per aver guardato il canale CrazyEngines!

[@alessandrobertoncini1137]

@@crazyengines88 È un piacere vederti all'opera!

[@crazyengines88]

@@alessandrobertoncini1137 Grazie, mi fa molto piacere sentire una parola così gentile! Grazie e buona serata!

[@superdutyspinner]

Hello Sir Crazy Engines- I’ve recently found your channel and love the videos you produce. As an Engineer I appreciate your thoroughness in evaluation and data collection. For stuck piston pins, I have used a micro butane torch to apply heat directly to the underside of the piston with some penetrating oil. It may take a couple applications. Give it a try. May I ask what part of the world you are from?

[@crazyengines88]

Hi, and thank you a lot for your kind comment and for your question. I'm from Ukraine. Regarding cutting the connection rod story - I should say, that before cutting the conrod I spent a tens of hours, going to heat up the stacked piston pin assembly with a heat gun, but with any result. That was the reason, why I decide to cut and to throw away a working 20 bucks part. You can imagine, that in an hours one of mine subscribers, and friend Tom (he is professional aero engines mechanics), gives to me an advice, to heat the piston pin assembly more with a help of a butane torch. I've also two of OS FS 61 engines in more or less equal condition with a stacked piston pin, as well, as a very similar story with an OS FS 40 engine. So, I decide to check, will it works with much higher temps of the butane torch. The result was great, at first, this works nice (I found, that it could be easily pulled out), at second, both three engine were repaired in an hours. All of them are still in my collection, and after its repairing they are in excellent working condition. So, that means, that your advice really works, and thank you for that. Have nice day !

[@SomeGuyInSandy]

Reloading press ftw!

[@wagnerfratelli3500]

Meu jovem ,a maneira que eu faço na minha oficina é, desmontar o máximo possível colocar em um balde com thinner PU ,e mergulhar por completo por horas ou dias ,para amolecer óleos queimado, e também nunca retirar o anel de pistão da maneira que o fez, poderia economizar alguns dólares apenas trocando os rolamentos com paciência..

[@crazyengines88]

Meu caro amigo, obrigado por seu conselho. O segundo mesmo motor, desmontado, jaz em uma mistura de gasolina e querosene pela segunda semana. Espero que seja possível amolecer esse plástico em que. transformado em óleo de rícino. Com os melhores votos !

[@EnglishTurbines]

Heating the crankcase using a Heat Gun you can avoid pressing in new bearings. Using a press on a bearing is never a good idea if you can avoid it....🤔😏🇬🇧

[@crazyengines88]

Hi, and thank you a lot for your comment ! Sure, you're totally right there. But can you imagine, how much different size tools for bearings installation I should have with all that amount of engines in my tests and repairs ? I think, at least, 10 or even more. Also, should say, that all my engines runs very nice, without any hesitations to the bearings performance. Anyhow, you're totally right and thank you a lot for your comments. Have a nice day !

[@roki5941]

-9.6 Celsius !! Where are you ,, North pole ??

[@crazyengines88]

Ha-ha-ha...not yet, recently :-). But that was a few days, when was so cold. This video has at least, 3 parts, each was filmed in a different time of December 2022. Engine test run was exactly at such unsuitable conditions...but there was no way - to complete the whole engine story, final test run after repair is a must have.

[@stephanstrydom8608]

Soak it in Paint thinners. No need to cut the conrod.

[@crazyengines88]

Thank you very much for your great advice ! I've few OS engines with the same syndrome, will try to execute your advice ASAP ! Thank you !

[@migueltrombettonipipinich1719]

After run oil !!

[@crazyengines88]

Thank you for your comment ! I wasn't my engine, I bought it on eBay a long time ago in such terrible condition.

[@migueltrombettonipipinich1719]

Oh my god!! WTF???

[@crazyengines88]

Nothing special, Sir. That was the only way left for me was to cut the connecting rod to remove the piston pin, which was firmly attached to the piston, due to the polymerized castor oil residue. That's was a small price to pay for a rebuilt engine that's like new now.

[@grahamhall2662]

Caster oil for model engines should be banned. There are much better alternatives nowadays.

[@dmrcflyr2]

Your comment is so out in the weeds. Castor, dried castor, is one of the best things to preserve parts from rust and corrosion. All that it takes is heat and another oil to liquefy the oil again. Most ‘quality’ engines built in the 70’s-80’s required castor to operate properly. One reason was due to the quality of synthetic oils of the time. Castor still has it’s place and always will.