How to Belay with a Munter Hitch

[@joemignano]

As someone learning the differences between Munter and clove hitches, I wish she’d explained that the hitch she was initially attached to her anchor with is a clove and not a Munter. As she says “it allows me to extend myself away from the anchor” at 0:30, she seems to be adjusting her *clove,* not the Munter, which is really confusing.

[@joemignano]

…or if the initial hitch is also a Munter, I wish she’d explicitly mentioned and explained that 😓

[@borisdatzar]

The point she is making is when belaying with a munter you can be further away from the anchor if you want. For eg if you you are using a grigri and want to lower someone you need to pull the grigri lever and so need to be close to the anchor where the grigri is attached. How you get further away from the anchor when you are tied in, is not explained at all, and is obviously nothing to do with the munter: you can't tie in with a munter to an anchor. So yes she is using a clove hitch for that, but that's not the purpose of the video.

[@Doctor_Yuri]

Great video! I've used this a few times when forgetting/dropping an ATC (it happens!), and its good to see some of the additional tricks to go along with it.

[@ChattahoocheeRiverRat]

interesting video. Am studying climbing knots because I"m a sailor and we also deal with knots and ropes all the time (though we call them "lines"). We also sometimes need to go up a mast. What I don't understand in this video is wrapping a line around your hand for more friction. Among sailors, that's a big no-no, because strain on the line can crush your hand. That said, the load created by a sail can be significantly greater than the static weight of a human. There's a way that we run the line across your palm, around the back of your thumb, and then back across your palm in the opposite direction and parallel to the first strand. You can create quite a bit of friction and clamping force basically by making a fist. The limitation here is this only works in one direction. Any thoughts, folks? Thanks

[@woody40000]

The reason you can get away with wrapping rope here is that it is not the line directly supporting the weight. The force needed on the "dead" rope to stop the rope slipping through the munter hitch is way less than the bodyweight of the person on the live rope, so a few wraps are acceptable. On the other hand wrapping the live rope is still a big nope in climbing as a persons weight is enough to break things, especially in a fall situation with a bit of momentum.

[@JREV123]

outstanding video. Thank you

[@SteveLarese]

Excellent video.

[@jessicakeenum8366]

Hi, which jacket is she wearing, I am searching for a good lightweight climbing jacket for the mild California coastal winters.

[@bobguy82]

think that's an Outdoor Research jacket

[@isntimportant]

So buy a cheap lightweight jacket. Don't find out what some hipster who makes a living on social media is wearing. You'll just waste money. I tend to use surplus, that stuff lasts forever.

[@lukegaming86]

@@isntimportantlol

[@isntimportant]

Why would anyone demonstrate it like that rather than in use?

[@jameson1239]

Maybe because generally the person who tied the knot isn’t the one being lowered

[@simonnoelkavanagh]

Good verbal explanations, but visually, really not ideal to have any 2 knots so close to each other for the purposes of teaching. Would be clearer for less experienced climbers to see it completely unobstructed. Is the knot behind clove, or munter? If it is clove, then have it lower or off to the side attached to a different point. The mule overhand portion is very hard to make out with the two extra strands of rope dangling behind the munter. 🤨

[@vojtechvalka4280]

Dyneema on the rope? Kevlar prusik is better... If you want more friction then use double munter hitch.

[@rolypolyraccoon9242]

That’s an aramid HollowBlock made for the purpose. So yes, the guide in this video is already using Kevlar, not Dyneema. Good on you for reinforcing her choices.