Outlaw Paints - Do they live up to the Hype?

[@MannsModelMoments]

Have you tried Outlaw paints yet? Will you? Let me know your thoughts down below....

[@zulerodoeht329]

Great video, thanks for the demonstration. I never knew that lacquer paints dried so quickly. You asked so here goes, the paint line looks great, the downside is I already have quite the stockpile of Tamiya and Model Air. I also have a few Ammo by Mig and a few AK paint bottles. I never went down the Mission Model or Hataka paint road. I will pick up a bottle or two in order to give the paint a fair shake. After all, there is only so much room in the "tank factory" as my wife calls it. I am deep in the Heart of Texas "San Antonio", so I do have 4 hobby shops (not including Hobby Lobby) to shop from. I will see if the local hobby shops are carrying Outlaw Paints. Thanks again, keep up the good work.

[@MannsModelMoments]

I have (literally) hundreds of paints in my personal collection - I'm not throwing them away, they're just being used for different purposes - hand brushing, painting areas where I don't need a rapid dry time or super-durable finish (interior areas that won't be seen much for example) or for thinner more transparent coats over pre-shading and marbling. But yes, that old enemy of space is always there looming over us!

[@AussieScaleModeller]

Bobs Hobbyshop and Rc in the States

[@julianmhall]

Great video Alex! I noticed as well you didn't need any primer and it still went on fine and covered very nicely :)

[@MannsModelMoments]

Yeah - the purpose of a primer is to provide good adhesion of the paint and provide an even surface. Using lacquers you're getting good adhesion as part of that "hot" nature, and the high pigment density means an even finish is only needed to see if sanding etc has worked to your satisfaction!

[@richardtrinder89001]

Great video Alex, looking to get some soon to try out on the lifeboats.

[@MannsModelMoments]

You should! Mos has the full lifeboat range at the UK Outlaw site.

[@glencwilson]

What a great way to show the properties of the paints. The yellow paint was impressive. Will give that one a try for sure. The trouble with paints like those, after using something like AK RC is having to learn how to use them. Not having to thin them and use lower pressure feels strange (MRP are similar but do need a few coats especially for yellow). Given their coverage I guess they probably won't be any use for pre-shading but post shading could be a lot easier. Do like the range of colours and the pearls might be fun to use on cars. With such good coverage I guess that seams and surface finish might be more important than with some other paints. Would be interested to see a video on something like that.

[@emmabird9745]

Interesting. Looks easy to use, but taking your time is part of any past time, after all we don't build models as if we were on a factory production line, but being able to does not mean we have do, does it. I will have to give this paint a try when I have some spare time. Thinking about your "only danger is knocking over the bottle", I suggest that you need a block with a hole in it rather like the inkwell holder in an old fashioned escritiore.

[@MannsModelMoments]

That's a great idea...also my middle school (Age 8-10) had desks which had holes for an ink pot together with a lid so you could put your schoolbooks inside it....

[@emmabird9745]

@@MannsModelMoments mine too. Oh so long ago.

[@MannsModelMoments]

@@emmabird9745 Sadly yes!

[@wordenb1830]

I've only used 3 Outlaw colours so far and have yet to come to any real conclusions but they do show promise. For me they dry a little too quick, but then I have no need or wish to paint a model against the clock. I like to build up a wet coat from 2 or 3 light coats with the aim of allowing the paint to level out as it dries. I've found adding about 30% thinners with retarder suits works for me with little impact on colour density.

[@MannsModelMoments]

If you want to try this approach, the best thing to do is use a levelling thinner - I'll be doing a video on my own shortly!

[@AussieScaleModeller]

All Outlaw Paint is designed to self level no matter what as the pigments are a liquid base, the thinners has been engineered to do this, And I know because I make it lol , Its made by a modeller and I am now 51 yrs a modeller and 3 yrs of making Outlaw and never settling for close enough

[@wordenb1830]

Is levelling thinner different to thinner with retarder Alex? I have tried it with MLT and Tamiya thinner with retarder, both give a lovely finish.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Mr Hobby thinner is a mix of polar organic solvents - the levelling thinner only differs in the ratios of these, which allows manipulation (extension) of the drying time

[@haydwilljones]

A good video Alex, i really enjoyed it and found it useful, thanks for doing it and am looking forward to more on this range of paints.

[@chrisflowers6479]

Great video i think I might give them a try. I like the idea of being able to use it straight into the airbrush and the drying time as well. 👍

[@MannsModelMoments]

The worst than can happen (barring spilling the paint or dropping your model, of course!) is you don't like them...

[@ChrisColeman-yf8jk]

Hi Alex only thing missing is the need for ppe for the user and care required for others in the household including pets With anyone who has health issues they are really a no no. In this day and age surely it's time manufacturers brought out a good save paint !

[@MannsModelMoments]

Well we have safe paints - they're acrylic emulsions...but safe comes with some compromises....at the end of the day we still are constrained by chemistry and physics!

[@ChrisColeman-yf8jk]

I do wonder how many use the correct respiratory equipment and that lacquer will remain toxic inside your home for 30-40 days.

[@DansModelBench]

Great review. I've only used their 2K clear on a car kit, but it went down brilliantly and it was my first attempt at using a product like that on I think only my second car kit. Would you be able to do a follow up video discussing the health risks and recommendations for handling various types of paints? I think that could be a useful follow on from what you have already discussed in regards model paints. Cheers Dan

[@MannsModelMoments]

Good idea!

[@allandaniell7055]

I’ve been using them for years here in Oz. I like them 👍

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thanks Allan, good to hear!

[@markstott6689]

I do like the look of these paints very much. However, with my long-term health issues and, therefore, limited income, it's a tough sell. The cost of upgrading my mask and homemade spray booth is an issue. Plus then, there are the costs of buying into a new range of paints. Maybe one day I'll get to give it a go. 😊❤😊

[@MannsModelMoments]

Cost-wise the paints are comparable to others since you're getting twice the volume of many (3x in the case of Tamiya), but I understand the health issue piece completely, and as others have mentioned, I'll look at doing a video on this in future. If you're going to "dip your toe" into Outlaw, a good place to start is primers - since you get the adhesion benefits and can then use your regular paints on top. Alternatively, a few "key" colours (eg RAF dark green, Ocean blue and medium Sea Grey is you're into mid-war British subjects) so you can do your main base camo painting with Outlaw and then use your other paints for bands, details etc.

[@markstott6689]

@MannsModelMoments The main issue Alex, is the cost of a proper spray booth to replace the giant cardboard box that I'm currently using. That will necessitate birthday and Christmas present money. A cheap booth is around £75. A good sized one appears to be anything up to £200. I've seen a Drager face mask on Amazon for around £40 which seems reasonable. Unless you tell me they are rubbish. Perhaps the Christmas plan of a stand mixer will have to wait (it's getting to the point where kneading bread is becoming much too painful).

[@ModelMinutes]

I've experienced only a few lacquer paints in my time, the SMS and Tamiya versions - both of which I have been very happy with. I do particularly like the airbrush-ready nature of these kinds of paints and their fast drying time. I'll need to give outlaw a try when I get the chance!

[@DirtRat62]

Are you stocking Outlaw paint? More than a little interested.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Yes - link for the shop in the description!

[@KeithWeldon]

This has to be the Airfix mid 80"s Bf 109F kit not the newer Bf 109E. Still great looking model Will have to try the line when available in the USA

[@MannsModelMoments]

Yes it is the old-tool kit, not the newer one

[@iannicholls7476]

That does look very quick and trouble free. What are you using for cleaning up the airbrush?

[@MannsModelMoments]

I use my own airbrush cleaner, available through the shop :-D

[@TheLittleThingsJunkie]

How do they compare directly with other lacquer brands like MRP, SMS, Hataka? Are Outlaw paints better than those in any way? Not as good in any way?

[@MannsModelMoments]

The main advantage over other lacquers is pigment density (which is hard to show on a video, though I may give that a go!). With lower pigment density paints you're building up colour - which obviously takes longer. If you het too much of a lacquer paint on a model, the solvent can attack the plastic before it evaporates...which no one wants. Using levelling thinners helps, but that extends drying time....so as always, it's a case of what works for you and your style.

[@alexmoore2831]

Just need the lifeboat to arrive to try these out. ALEX can your airbrush cleaner be decanted into a plastic bottle or does it need to stay in the glass

[@MannsModelMoments]

It might be ok in a suitable HDPE container (if you have one that contained a similar solvent like Tamiya lacquer thinner), but it will eat through some plastics....

[@JAFKARNAT]

Nice video, great for spraying. How is it with the old hairy stick ?

[@MannsModelMoments]

It's made for spraying, thoguh I have used it for small pieces by brush, the main issue with brush painting lacquers is you get more solvent on the plastic than it's designed for, which can end up attacking the plastic itself. Outlaw are working on a brush-paintable version at the moment.

[@jefthing]

No, no, quite impressed. But I don’t do airbrushing and Vallejo meets my needs.

[@ekkehardlehmann7016]

You can mask the acrylic color after less then 5 minutes? I can´t believe it... I see, you spray very "dry". I´ll try this outlaw colorpaints. I think,they are great.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Yes you can!

[@stephenwhelan2515]

How are they for brush painting? I do have an airbrush but it will be a while before this becomes my main method of painting, so for now im still with my humbrol and revell enamels.

[@MannsModelMoments]

They're not designed for brush painting but they are making a brushable range soon

[@garyhunt4032]

Did you find they smell stronger than most other lacquer paints,I found they smell a little like cellulose paint

[@MannsModelMoments]

To be honest, you should really be wearing a chemical filter mask when spraying ANY lacquer or cellulose solvent paints, and you shouldn't really be able to smell anything through that - if you can, probably time to change the filters!

[@garyhunt4032]

@MannsModelMoments it's more when I've finished it lingers more, but yes I do where a mask,and a ventilated room,with a small booth and fan

[@MannsModelMoments]

@@garyhunt4032 I've not noticed a big difference between them and others like SMS etc myself