Over 100 Years Of Trad Climbing History | Climbing Daily Ep 1425

Get some Arc'teryx gear: bit.ly/2HFuC6Y
The Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival helps to preserve classic Lake District trad routes that might otherwise be forgotten. We travelled there to discover the history of climbing in the area. Speaking to expert Trevor Langhorne and climbing with Charlie Woodburn and Gilly McArthur we piece together the first ascent of 'Oliverson's Variation And Lyon's Crawl'. This classic VDiff on Gimmer Crag is a wonderful adventure, interesting for the modern climber...far more serious in 1907.
More information on the Lakeland Revival: bit.ly/2EzXjAR
Thanks to Frank Grant for the photos. Email [e-mail] for Haskett Smith's biography (limited edition of 300).
Thanks also to the Fell and Rock Climbing Club For all their support: bit.ly/2EHnncP
Over 100 Years Of Trad Climbing History | Climbing Daily Ep 1425

[@conorquinn4779]

Beautifully shot and much more relevant for most of us than the latest E10. Great work.

[@Coach_Doc_Roc]

This is an absolutely stellar episode. Every facet of it is beautiful. Yes, please make some more of these.

[@BASESHOCK7]

Absolute masterpiece. Really enjoyed the editing to take us through the history and the journey of the climb. Would love to see more of this!

[@willryt]

That was a great film - please make more like this!

[@zevkarter9600]

sorry to be so off topic but does someone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb lost the account password. I love any assistance you can give me.

[@mariotyler3898]

@Zev Karter instablaster :)

[@ericfrisard2060]

Great idea to mix modern images with old writings about the climb. Would be great to do this for other lines, in other countrys...

[@mattiasgonczi]

Seriously one of the best films you've given us on your channel, Superb! Pure class. loved every second of it!

[@howler6490]

Solo-ed that route in the late '70's and that traverse has better/worse, exposure than most solos on skye and n. wales. A lot of roped climbers forget it is equally as difficult for the second as the leader.Not a place for a shaky beginner.

[@MjrHop]

Such a good episode! Well done EpicTV! Got me so psyched to do some lake district trad classics

[@richardcarey169]

Oh the lakes and north wales, the birth of my love affair with climbing 5 decades ago

[@Ammoniummetavanadate]

Absolutely beautiful video. Good work guys.

[@schmetterling2169]

This looks like such a fun route despite its ease, id love to climb it!

[@helixmh]

My second ever mult-pitch route. It was very busy when we went but it was worth it!

[@kasrababaei4622]

Such a beautiful scenery, and an amazing history. I just wish we could watch it in 4K.

[@Guildmarm]

Lovely film. Enjoyed it very much :)

[@SuperHell666666]

And we can thank the hobnail booted pioneers for all the polish!

[@vincentkrause7097]

To honour the nail boots Pioneers, they should have climbed this route in approach shoes!

[@lee-johnson]

Beautiful filming.

[@wyattmphoto]

beautiful post. Hope to cross the pound to experince this rock someday.

[@gcsScotland]

Happy day's on Lakeland rock 😀⛰

[@lalibertenordsud]

Awesome video! But what the heck is a VDiff!?

[@benedictionkupo]

trad grade, basically the equivalent of a 4a? basically the english trad system of grading tries to give you an impression of both how hard the climb is technically, and how difficult it is to protect :)

[@lalibertenordsud]

@@benedictionkupo I figured it was something like that. But I usually see E and then a number (E6, E7, etc.). Now, you have to bring a V into it. You sneaky UK climbers ;)

[@andrewp.menotti6756]

YDS 5.5

[@z1522]

To quote Tom Patey: "A solo climber is one man, falling alone; a roped team is two people falling together." Excuse me, but at 6:27 belay hand is entirely off the rope!? Perhaps picking nits, but on the traverse after 8:00 the sparse, smallish wired nuts are being lifted way outwards by rope tension, a circumstance that often dislodges them. Just because the pioneers a hundred years before had none does not mean modern placements should not be as secure, omnidirectional, and solid as possible. Using multiple pieces in opposition has been a routine solution, to avoid having placements come out under rope tension.

[@williammorris6097]

As a retired guide and climbing instructor from Colorado, I appreciate your comments. I've seen countless "experienced climbing parties" climbing near my clients and I, doing these same basic mistakes, and more. Makes you appreciate what good instruction will produce if it's understood, practiced, and respected. I'm still here after 27 years of guiding with basic beginners often handling my rope.

[@ryanc9432]

100 years of trad climbing history* * in the UK

[@williammorris6097]

Thats where true technical rockclimbing began

[@GreeMoMee]

@@williammorris6097 I mean, not really.

[@RobErt-jr3lt]

Inspiring.

[@leecarabini1967]

Trad is rad

[@s13hgp]

Chalk bag on a VD?

[@michaelspence159]

This looks amazing. This is the sort of thing that has made me want to start to climb. Any advice ??

[@kaimcguire5086]

Michael Spence go to a bouldering gym. you’ll get strong and start meeting people to eventually climb outside with.

[@Tstratman92]

how the hell would they have gotten down if they found they couldn't do it? especially given the ropes they were using were basically twine.

[@williammorris6097]

They would have "abseiled" which is a descent down a rope by wrapping it around you in a way that it will allow you to slide down the rope with friction keeping you from descending too quickly provided you have a firm grip on the rope and know how to perform it. Maybe / probably the Lake district climbers knew this technique because it had been used in the mountains for many years in Europe before some of these climbs had been done.

[@martinbarnett4210]

So this is an old trad climb. V Diff ,so how come the two climbers doing the route are resorting to using chalk.I may be an old fossil but I think chalk should not be spoil anything under at least the old XS (extreme) graded routes.Also the comment that we call blame hobnail boots for polishing routes is rubbish. A lot of traffic from years of use by climbers in the old PA climbing shoes and modern day sticky climbing footwear is far more damaging to the holds on these kind of routes.

[@andrewp.menotti6756]

I know this is a UK website, but since the US and AU use different grades, and the UK uses a rather unique grading system, wouldn't hurt to put at least the Foutainbleu grades alongside the UK trad grades for such a video.

[@dailyclimbing]

Hi, the problem is it's very difficult to convert across. We could suggest the sport climbing grade, but even that is difficult as the system is based on difficulty and protection as well as the moves. Putting the Fontainebleau grade (bouldering) just doesn't link to a route...

[@andrewp.menotti6756]

@@dailyclimbing Fair point. All the same, good video, and great footage. Thanks for putting it out.

[@LaVey616]

first - I did it. finally. after all these years!

[@Hiltok]

That's what Lyons said 100 years ago!

[@balke7935]

It is the birth of rock climbing.... except for north wales (1798)

[@TheDutchPhysicist]

The way british climbers belay a second is so weird, even looks like the belay device wouldnt work in this configuration

[@MrLyckegard]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZoexhWOvYt-pqNE ^^