Over-Engineering: Intercooler Mount, Oil Sump, PDM, And MORE! Honda-Swapped Ferrari

[@OddBawZ]

On the subject of the cage. Could you fabricate some side bars and add a roll bar at the rear window like in a cabriolet? It's adding weight but if you have a roll over then at least it's something.

[@stanceworks]

That’s more or less what we have now (but not in the car.). A bolt-in roll bar behind me.

[@deimond3123]

Yeah. Old cars aren't known to be the best in a roll over, a roll over bar would be smart

[@OddBawZ]

@@stanceworks If it were me, I'd really want to street the car as much as I'd want to race it. Especially for you being your dream build. Unless there's a solution for detaching the bars that go along the side of you and the passengers head, I wouldn't cage it. I know there's solutions for quick detach side bars. Is there something you can do for the top bar too? I doubt it would be able to be certified for class racing but what about club racing?

[@richardswain9143]

So roll bar behind, roll bar across the top of the front screen and down the A pillars to the floor, then centrally positioned bars connecting front to rear. Provides clearance for you helmet and rigidity in the event of a roll over. You could even explore diagonal corner braces to the central bar.

[@PedroPioLopes]

@@richardswain9143 this could work good enough! And it's better than a single hoop.

[@guillaumedefreitas8457]

Half cage and chassis reinforcement seems legit, maybe a quick release could ease your way in to 🙌 love the content I'm learning a lot !

[@lancefitzhenry5410]

That bucket seat would make me not want to get in and out, ha. Can't recall if he has another for street use?

[@carswithcrackers]

I'm pretty sure you need a vent on that turbo sump to prevent the pump from making vacuum.

[@Omeshan]

So Excited! If the oil drain tank has one inlet and one outlet, its just a big piece of pipe- you'll still have the full vacuum at the turbo. i think it needs a breather to bring to atmospheric pressure

[@flutterguy965]

The thing about the scavenge pump and the Turbo is that the little tank needs to make sure there is no or very little vacuum. At least this is how I always understood it. It might be necessary to have another line on that part going to the crankcase to reduce vacuum. (correct me if I'm wrong please)

[@BMWturbotim]

Yes it need an breather hose.

[@need_more_lives2974]

Yes, the easy way is to add a ventilation hole with a filter in order to vent to atmosphere

[@christophernoto]

I was just thinking that same thing! 👍👍

[@irancartaxo8353]

Your ability to weld aluminum was greatly improved during this project Mike. Congratulations on your perseverance.

[@Metalwolf765]

Rear roll hoop with diagonal and harness bars should be good enough. Like you said, without going door to door on track, there’s no need for the rest of the cage. You just want rollover protection and a way to safely mount a harness.

[@GavinKacavenda]

You’ll need to vent that tank. Without the vent it’s the same as the turbo being directly connected to the pump. Great work though!!

[@jdmjesus6103]

Came here to say that! It's about not drawing a vacuum on the seals on low load and idle i believe. I know it kills turbos if you don't.

[@beobe99]

@@jdmjesus6103 (amateur here) wouldn't he also need baffles if he vents? Actually, shouldn't there be baffles regardless to prevent sloshing away from the inlet/outlet.

[@jdmjesus6103]

@@beobe99 I don't think so no, the pump should be able to cope with max oil flow so the tank should be nearly dry most of the time. There may be an issue on long left hand bends but it depends on the circuit. You could fix that by using two pumps or maybe a tee in the line, one each side. Probably not needed though.

[@nigspeed]

Exactly.

[@bruceverhoef382]

Yes i was thinking the same thing

[@Jonathan_Doe_]

The only issue with those Optrels is, if you forget you’ve hit the ‘grind mode’ button, or you hit it accidentally, and you’re wearing them low enough you don’t spot that little red light, you end up blinding yourself when you arc up. The dual flip 3m Speedglas masks avoid that issue, and also have a lot of colour, they’re a bit heavier though.

[@ferkle1980]

Dude, the intercooler mount looks awesome. Your fab skills are really coming on. Lots to be proud of there.

[@HomeBuiltByJeff]

Welding is really looking fantastic, you have definitely left me for dead. As for the cage, is it possible to run a rear half cage and have a bolt in front cage, so you can have it when you need it? Even just a rear cage will add stiffness and also give you something if the worst happens.

[@stanceworks]

I’m thinking something like this is the solution.

[@AB2KAB]

I was just about to comment ‘Add a rear hoop at least behind the seats…’ Your idea is better🤟🏼

[@MrTotalmayhem]

Love the build! as a Trophy Truck builder I would highly suggest making a compromise on a cage at a very minimum. what I mean is you could install at least a four point cage with a halo and cross bar for your shoulder straps and run bracing down the side. not as good as a full cage but better than not having one. wouldnt take up to much space yet still have the added protection. what I always tell people is no one plans on crashing, also motorsports is a crime of passion that we love to share with fellow enthusiasts. you absolutely will have passengers and while you may not push the car as hard with passengers present you will deff push the fun envelope to enjoy and share your mechanical art. no one looks back and says i wish i didnt build the car so safe, but do look back and say i wish i would have. Tyler Total Mayhem Racing

[@functionSam]

Coming from someone who doesn't weld at all: those welds looks professional!

[@stevensmith2228]

Love this build! I just had a thought about the headlight buckets. Would it be possible/look good if you had them pop up about a half inch and put daytime running light strip across each one? I'm not sure how it would look, maybe something to think about down the road. A nice subtle nod to the original style of pop up head lights

[@StanleyKubick1]

it's been done to death on every miata and rx-7 for 25 years. it's also not aero-efficient, so I hope Mike doesn't go that route

[@stevensmith2228]

@@StanleyKubick1 good point. Thought he might be able to do something cool with it

[@kylenorris5391]

I love when you talk about things you keep it interesting keep the "rambling" I think its cool that you gave the car wizard some parts from your car class act

[@sheraton056]

Have just watched all your videos on this build over the past week, truly amazing work, and great to see both the highs and lows. Can’t wait to see it finished!

[@mandrakejake]

The build is coming along great! Be aware of bare aluminium touching bare steel it'll galvanic corrode really fast! Regarding the cage, I say no cage but I'd want a roll over hoop to save me in the event..

[@furhadnasserjah123]

I love the look of a nice cage, and safety of course is important. But I think you might’ve answered your own question - a full cage would make it very uncomfortable to street drive, and what’s the point of all this work if you’re unable to enjoy it. I’m my own build I did a half cage (66 mustang swapped onto a 2018 mustang chassis) and that to me was a perfect medium between safety and comfort. I also made half door bars just for rigidity, and support of the chassis, but these can be unbolted, as can be the half cage too. This let me finish out the interior and make it look like a normal street car, but also have some safety, and retain comfort. But i have no doubt whatever you decide it’ll be kick ass. Keep it up man!

[@andreasweber7828]

Club Sport Bars behind the seats ( like in a Porsche GT3 ) should be sufficient for your purpose

[@nsh0325ppp]

Might want to consider a removable steering wheel might really help ingress and egress. The cage is a difficult question, looks like a very challenging car to install one in. I think it really depends if you race a class that requires it. Might want to do the minimum of a hoop now but think about how to make it upgradable in the future if needed.

[@WreckRod]

Agree 100% on the removable steering wheel

[@dumbestoyster]

I keep thinking to myself that the bracket on top of the intercooler should extend and wrap over the edges. With the weight of the intercooler, the engine and road vibrations, I worry about the mount on the flat top will cause fatigue overtime. I think a hoop with contoured door bars is the best

[@AnttiBrax]

I think the weight is being exaggerated. The big end tanks are on the air side so they're literally empty and the core itself has air passages going through it. Saying "it's full of water" just ain't right.

[@ssoffshore5111]

Those urethane bushings will have minimal give, they are very rigid and the part really doesn't have that much weight to it. In this case I think rubber would've the better choice given the intended use. Regarding the cage, I think that's a decision YOU need to make. Adding a full cage will w/o doubt improve the chassis rigidity, which is something those car's could use a lot of help on, especially on the track! But, I do agree it would be pretty dangerous to drive w/o a helmet. Having wacked my gord on cage bars more than once (luckily nothing to serious), I can tell you your concern is valid... especially on the street with potential passengers riding in the car! If you really want to use it on the street, probably the best compromise would be a well designed rear roll bar with fixed door bars (contoured for somewhat easy egress) and tied into sold structure as far forward as possible... Just my two cents!

[@ssoffshore5111]

BTW, I'd use chrome moly for all of the tubing to keep weight and diameter at a minimum. That is, unless you can find someone to make one for you out of CF!

[@Canadian260Z]

Great job as always Mike, love this build. Might have been said but what about a detachable steering wheel for getting in and out might make things bit easier. I am sure you have thought of it already.

[@jakeford2324]

As for the roll cage, what comes to my mind is a hoop that follows the A pillar tightly, going back to the rea hoop in the MIDDLE ala "T" top. the bars at the side foot well that get in the way could be made "bolt in" and be removable for street use. You could use a half round solid connector lie the way a RZR cage bolts at the "A" pillar.

[@kylepadelford]

Rear half cage/roll bar for sure. Will give you a place to mount shoulder harnesses if required, offer roll over protection in a freak incident, and doesn't cause more issue getting in/out of the car. Everything is coming along damn amazing. Loving it!

[@TommyG_0311]

I LOVE that design, it looks so good sitting on top of your intercooler and welded to the brace.

[@richardpugh3434]

I see the model A pickup in the background longing for some love. I can’t wait for you to get back onto that one. My favorite and what brought me here. As for a roll cage, could you do an A pillar hugging front bar from the floor, hoop behind the seat and bars up top down the middle that curve out behind your head? You could do a removable/hinged bar for the sides. It would be better than nothing and would have clearance for a helmet if done with you in mind.

[@FourOff]

Sendcutsend Pro Tip: Add locating tabs/notches to your pieces. Makes assembly easier, reducing time to make sure things are aligned properly and jigged up.

[@actionjackson891]

For the rollbar question, I would say put a rollbar behind you and then if you need to you can expand that into more of a cage. This allows you to grow as you discover how you are going to use the car because it changes what starts as a street car becomes a track car and vice versa 😀

[@greghenderson6011]

I have no advice to offer as I have no knowledge regarding building awesome cars, but I enjoy watching and learning from this channel. Great job.

[@tomwagemans1872]

Not being an Instagram worthy welder, I still would like to give you some tips for tig welding. I myself learned a lot from the channel welding tips and tricks. I practiced a lot to get my filler hand keep up with the torch. Most off the welds you did can be done without stopping, which will result in them looking better. And prop your hand that holds the torch on something that slides, this will help you keep a good torch angle. I even use this when I mig welding. I hope this helps. Greetings from Belgium. Keep up making great content!

[@nichobarricco5149]

Rollcage. B pillar main hoop, with 2 rear stays down to the upper suspension mounting points. A harness mount tube at the height of the top of your shoulders. If possible 2 tubes from the base of the B pillar, back to meet the rear stays. Contoured door bars from as high on the B pillar, to as far forward on the sill, as tolerable

[@frankly88]

12:41 You need another line run to that turbo sump tank, it needs to be able to suck air freely otherwise it will still create a negative pressure to bottom of the turbo and suck it dry. You can run another line up to you cam cover or catch can

[@jamesashe]

A few things: 1: The turbo oil drain setup would benefit from having a float switch activated pump. It will extend the life of the electric pump. It probably is, strictly speaking, not necessary. However, you will almost certainly need an indicator to determine if the pump is actually running. Most scavenge pumps I've dealt with don't permit push-through flow. So if the pump isn't running, the turbo may not be getting oil once the pressures balance. Additionally, The oil flow rate of a ball bearing turbo is very small and the scavenge pump may need additional flow to keep lubricated/cool. A float switch would allow for sufficient pump flow when it activates. I did not watch the video where you installed it, so perhaps these things have already been considered. 2: Without any further information than what you provided in the video, I would guess that the bushings you made for the intercooler are too stiff. If you can machine them and you can use them for control arms, they likely are not going to move any meaningful amount with 60lbs of intercooler on them. However, I don't have a source for a more compliant bushing that I could recommend. If you find the durometer rating of the bushing material you're using, you can determine how important this concern is. 3: As someone who's done a LOT of track days in various cars, you need at least a four point cage. That means four points of connection to the chassis, behind you in the passenger compartment. I would STRONGLY recommend adding door bars on top of that. They do make clevis kits to allow for removable door bars and that may be to your liking for your occasional street use. If the four point section is made well/correctly, it should be enough if you end up on your roof. It won't be enough if you roll the car multiple times. You will have to decide if you are comfortable with that trade off. If you are not comfortable, a full cage is necessary. The reason for my recommendation is because you are attempting to push the car far past it's era of performance. Tripling the power, doubling the grip and braking, and trying to add aero download are all well outside the race cars of this era. The chassis will struggle to handle these loads and the cage will help. More cage will help more. Ultimately, your inexperience in combination with a heavily modified, homebuilt vehicle make a cage a no-brainer. Good luck

[@fastdruid]

I made the decision with my build (GT40 replica) that while I intended to track it occasionally it would predominately be a road car. My chassis came with a roll cage, I sat in the car with it fitted and waved my head about and it would be laughably easy to hit my head on the cage even with a 6 point harness and strapped in hard. So unless I was *ALWAYS* going to put on a helmet even for a little trip round the corner the cage had to go. What I did do however was add in a plate to the roll-over hoop integrated in the rear bulkhead so I could (in theory anyway) bolt in a cage relatively easily and quickly. Sure a bolt in cage will never be as good as a weld in one but better than no cage under the circumstances where you might need one!

[@allovered10]

roll cage idea bar across the front, bar across the back behind your seat,: both join below by the door line, and across the middle on the passenger side on top by the roof, asimetric.

[@Amicodablack]

This entire build is awesome....been here since you took it apart...and the only way I see you putting a full cage is if you had two of them..I can feel that you wanna drive this thing...or a cage that you can take apart..I think the cage takes away from what its gonna be..

[@stephanoverton347]

Loving this build and can't wait to see it running. I think, drive it first, then decide if it's streetable enough that you would want to drive it around. From there you can decide what type of cage.

[@Stoney1985]

Already mentioned a few times, but a half cage with a harness bar and diagonal brace would probably be the best compromise, tying it into the rear crossmember would also be beneficial, as I'm sure 1000hp and sticky tyres is wanting to try and twist everything. And if you ever did go custom doors down the track, you could then maybe add some bolt in side intrusion bars that go out around the seat and occupy the space the factory inner door card would normally be.

[@thomaslathrop270]

Hey Mike, great work as always. I have a car that is a "tweener" (in between a street car and a track car). Over the years I've driven it far less on the street than I ever imagined, and I regret not putting a full cage in it from the get go. Whenever I drive a fully caged car on the track, I feel **a lot** safer and more comfortable at the limit. Your car will be making 5-6x the HP and probably triple the downforce versus my car, so it seems like all the more reason to go full cage. All that said, safety sometimes comes with compromises. Even if you go with just a back half roll bar, you still aren't supposed to use 5/6pt harnesses without a HANS device, which can't be used without a helmet, and yeah... you end up questioning where to draw the line. Lastly, there are some neat ideas that you can incorporate for added protection on a back half only roll bar, that wouldn't put bars next to your head, but can help with additional side impact, and to a lesser degree, front impact protection. They would probably help with rigidity as well. I can send you more info/photos if you are interested.

[@aedane11]

Love the series so far. I can't remember what time attack events/series you said you were planning on entering. So I think that when it comes to the cage you should check what the rules for the class are that you are entering, because that might be an issue, especially with the amount of aero and power the car is going to have. Then go as street-able as you can while still being within the rules.

[@stphnklptrk]

I'd look into some other 308 builds, see if they have added roll cages or other alternatives to their projects. It's 2022, someone has had to have done it already, and like people here said, it's all about how you plan on utilizing it in the end. I agree with another commenter about a quick release steering wheel to help with ingress/egress. I know nothing about racing standards, but I feel like there are less bulkier options for your racing seat given how small the interior of the 308 is.

[@daltvater78]

From my experience with a similar project (Frankenstein porker) No full cage to start. If you feel or hear the chassis flexing then add the front. I cut out the front of my full cage with no regrets. Driving to the track is 25% of the fun.

[@plmarshall30]

Dude, well done on the scavange tank! I bet that was like hitting a long drive or a home run, it just didn't feel that hard. I am impressed with your process and how much you think and are open to peoples comments. It is testament to your character that you read what people write and you think about it. I am sure I am like many others in that this think is sick! Can't wait to see it run and drive under its own power with all the aero stuff on! Keep up the great work on the car and the video production!

[@ryanstuve]

Huge respect on understanding the safety aspect regarding caged cars and needing a helmet. Excellent work& can’t wait to see it rolling under its own power.

[@RogueViirus12]

Your welds are looking fantastic in this episode man! They've definitely come a long way. It's great seeing you take the input from the experience in your community as a learning opportunity and seeing the results. As for the roll cage, I think it really comes down to having a conversation with yourself about exactly what your plans are for the car. Are you looking to make this thing an absolute time attack monster? Because every bit of rigidy you can add with a full cage will definitely help with that. But if you're fine not trying to be best in class and are just looking to rip it around the track, I'd say doing a half cage is your best option. Sure, you're going to lose some rigidity. But you won't lose out on your ability to to drive it on a whims notice during a typical day. I basically look at it two ways. Full cage it and only be able to drive it when you have the time to get everything set-up to go to the track, or put in a half cage and be able to drive it whenever you want.

[@street954]

You spent this much time building this creation - if it were me, I would go nuts knowing I limited how often and where I could drive it if I went with a full cage that is only safe when wearing a helmet etc. Obviously, make it as safe as you can, but for the street. I'm excited for the content of this thing ripping up the canyons of California. Turbo k series noises bouncing off every geographical surface. It's a fun experience - my favorite in my big hp k swapped mr2

[@jimmerriman6920]

Mike, there is one idea for a roll cage you haven't explored. A lot of guys that want the benefit of a better and stiffer chassis structure, but want to run they car on the street, do this trick. They mount a 4 bar roof cage behind their seats in a normal cage. They get the bas in the "B" pillar tucked right up up tight to the roof and the door frame. Now here the trick part. They then get som really think 1/4 or 3/8" chrome moly extra hard flat sheet metal and then they will take "CAD"/cardboard designs of their upper door jam surrounds and over to their A pillars and then down to the floor byt mading folds they tuck the CAD with might be a 6" wide material unfolded. Basically this stock then needs to be cut into sections, maybe with holes drilled out of it for weight savings, and then welded in from the tube roll chassis in the B pillar, tieing into the roll cage, and all the way around the door frame, windshield frame, and down to the floor board. This will add significant frame strength, chassis rigidity, and crash protection. Perhaps not as much as a full roll cage, but far better than without it. Best of all, because it's only 1/4" or 3/8" thick, it doesn't take up a lot of room, and come be covered up easily by trim and a nice roof liner. There is always more than one way to skin a bear, as they say! Reply back if you want to talk about it more.

[@scramble7673]

Floor brace B-pillar to B-pillar. To strengthen the floor structure and minimise twist.

[@thomasbrunier4678]

you can take inspiration in 911 gt3 cages, the rear part is bolted to the car and you can add the front part wich is just bolted to the rear part of the cage, it's a modular system

[@axoidmax]

Not gonna lie: I very much look forward to a completed car. That said, I also look forward to every installment seeing what you have done, how you solved your problems, and, listening to you as you get real about your concerns and, how you feel about the way it's going. Excellent work and thank you for the content.

[@unchartedgroupielove]

I'm no expert on turbo oil drain tanks, but I'm pretty sure it needs a breather? When the pump sucks it'll create a strong negative pressure in the tank, which will still suck oil rather than let it passively drip through. Fabrication looks amazing BTW

[@jordanhillis1315]

Running into the same cage dilemma in my 1000hp “street car”. The guys at the race shop down the street said just run a 6 point with no bars going past my head. Maybe you could bend the tubes for the door bars where they would be below the seat where you get in and out. The ride tech tiger cage has those style bars. I love where this car is going. Best of luck

[@neovenom9833]

Great video as always. Also, I don't know if you know this, but polymers require different cutting tools on a lathe. They are much sharper and will generate a much smoother and accurate finish.

[@StanleyKubick1]

half-cage and frame stiffeners on the rails, inner fenders and ofc struts

[@craiggreen4388]

Good progress on this right now Mike. The momentum you have shows through the enthusiasm.

[@UnicornBikes]

About the cage: I gave this some thought and came to a simple but flawless solution. If you want the strength and safety of a full cage, but the helmetless useability of a streetcar, just build an exo-cage. As a bonus, you get to show off more welding too :)

[@hambo6713]

Would have absolutely terrible aero

[@natedionne20]

Cage is not necessary for what you're wanting to do. However if you are dead-set on having one then I would change your seat with a lower bolsters to make it easier to get in and out of. Also keep in mind if your steering wheel disconnects it'll be a lot easier to get in and out of with the existing seat that you have.

[@irancartaxo8353]

A rollcage with double central roof bars and no side bars, or low side bars, could be safe for everyday use as there is space in the center of the roof and the double central bars in the roof can be lined with impact absorbent material. The central bars can still support some controls or selector switches.

[@RobertOnKauai]

Roll Cage By Send Cut Send !!! Think monocoque design. You could cut out some of the exsisting sheet metal in the areas of the roof/windshield surrounding areas as well as the door jams and floor pan to be replaced with or added to with bent/cut sheet metal that adds significant strenght and little more, if any, weight as compared to a roll cage. You could do that without adding much if any intrusion into the cabin area. I am a past 308 owner and I have worked on doing this on a 308 in the past. Happy to share what I know if this appeals to you. I believe that it gives you everything that you desire in this area with no negatives except for the added work.

[@RobertOnKauai]

Can, of course, be added into an approve competion rollover bar/harness bar.

[@samkunugi5319]

1/2 or 3/4 cage would be a good place to start. You can also try and see what seat mounting wiggle room you have for headroom. Then you can also add on anti intrusion bars and pillar bars later to the existing cage if you want. I’m a sting believer that if your on track even without wheel to wheel a cage is a must. I’ve seen enough casual track days turn bad that I wouldn’t want to run that without a cage. Especially with that power level and the design of car. Old things don’t crash well. Just my 2 cents worth. Love the car. Can’t wait to see it run!

[@jamiebizness1]

Cross the cage from the a and b pillars to the center so it leaves a gap on the window side and comes to a point in the center . Like an x on the roof. So you won't hit on the window side where it's right close to your head and the inner side would miss the cross bar cause it comes to a point

[@outkastmedia7387]

Removable hub on the steering wheel and a simple 6 point. Have super low mounted door bars that run beside the seat and your nice hoop and down bars you already have made up

[@gsh3159]

Love the build. Just a suggestion with the oil drain. If you have the pump sized for the required flow, such a large tank wouldn't be needed. The low mount kits available for BRZs or 86 and other Subarus with low turbos do still have a small reservoir but not such a large tank.

[@duarteandrade7880]

Mike, I believe that the oil outlet of the turbo must be a gravity drop to the tank, you shouldn't be expecting the oil to travel up in any stage.. I believe that your idea is to make the oil drain pipe to make a slight U and travel up near the tank inlet, and I'm not sure that's an ideal solution. You would probably be good with a smaller tank right bellow the turbo.. but probably there'll be more comments about this around here to make sure if this is a problem or not. regarding the roll-cage... I believe the car just looks to good to be track only.... this thing will make the day of anyone watching it on the street

[@JamesTarver]

Thank you for posting all the welding tips, wins and losses. I think its motivating me to teach myself.

[@pault8591]

Detachable steering wheel and a half cage for the street/track. Perhaps also add a detachable side bar you can add for track use and remove for street use.

[@tenacimortis3016]

I figured you'd build a main hoop with harness bar and make it a weld in 6 point. It's a compromise from going full cage, but will add some level of safety and structural rigidity which I know you were wanting.

[@J.B-is8fb]

For the roll cage they do make removable joints that can be swapped in and out. So you could effectively just remove part of the roll cage for street driving and install it back in place for the track. Also can you just have the top portion of the roll bar go behind the drivers seat? That why it still protects you in a roll over yet not interfering with a helmet? Also a detachable steering wheel, something like the ultima rs kit cars use where they have everything integrated into the wheel. That would be cool. Idk if they sell that kit separately though.

[@CSHracer]

Comment/question about the oil tank. Since you don't want the scavenge pump pulling straight from the turbo because it will suck it dry, how is adding an non-vented tank in-between any different? Without a vent, won't the pump still pull a vacuum and pull oil from the turbo anyway?

[@stanceworks]

I don’t know the answer to this one, and I’ll need to look it up. I wondered the same but a lot of people have told me otherwise. ,

[@CSHracer]

@@stanceworks I'm not familiar with that kind of set up, my simple turbo cars just drain back to the pan, so I don't have an answer. But that's what came to mind watching you build it. Kept thinking you'd be adding a vent line going up or something. Maybe the air in the tank simply provides enough expansion that the pump isn't pulling directly from the turbo. Just a guess though.

[@himwiththehair]

Not sure if anyone else has mentioned this, or if you'll even see this, but if the turbo to tank line is going to go into that top fitting, I'd be worried about it free draining, especially when you factor in any kind of slope or acceleration forces. Loving the progress on this and can't wait to see it finished!

[@ivyking4149]

On the cage; I say look at the seats a second time, since alot of parts are bespoke and handcrafted, you might come up with a seat design that alows for better ingress and egress, allows for more headspace, looks nicer(street) without taking away the support that these racing seats have. Then look for an acceptable rollbar sollution all the way round, or just the back. Those seats are a hinderance imo. I've been watching all of the hondaswappedrarri vids, love your ideas and thus far the car looks AMAZING. grts from Amsterdam, Netherlands

[@RestorationWatch]

You can pad the cage with soft foam/rubber tubing. I got mine from a wholesale air conditioning supplier. I use SolidWorks which I learned at university when I was studying Industrial Design. I've used it heaps since then on my projects, so I'm heaps better using it now. I'm definitely going to use your discount code! Also, I know you're a stickler for details, it's spatter, not "splatter". If you MIG weld you'll have an aerosol can of anti-spatter spray.

[@jamesreddish2206]

For the cage I would weld in everything behind you, the hoop harness bars etc. Then consider making the front hoop/door bars etc bolt in. OK it wouldn't be easy to fit or remove but you could then run a cage for track season and remove for show season as it were. Unless of course track rules stipulated otherwise

[@MrThewillows]

healthy question. if the turbo drains to a tank to avoid being sucked dry by pump then how does the pump protect itself from going dry also. i.e. if the oil drain to tank is lower than pump emptying it then the pump will simply empty the drain tank and also run dry. seems like a control feedback loop is required here with a float switch perhaps but it is adding complicaton. keep up the effort thanks

[@bloodreighn]

that turbo sump pump box is MAD nice with those welds!

[@pinoyuc]

You can also add adjustable 90° quick release steering wheel hub. Make it easier getting in & out of the car.

[@GingerPiston]

With regards to the cage; have a realistic and honest think about how much time you’d envisage being on track, vs free-time you’d like to be driving it on the street. Seems to me track work might be just a handful of times a year, whereas you’re far more likely to just want to take that beast out for a road blast whenever the urge takes you and time allows. If the track work can be safe with a Half rear cage, then I think the answer is apparent, IMO.

[@canned__meat]

If chassis rigidity is something you're concerned about, underbody triangulation and other longitudinal chassis stiffening options are around/possible. I'm doing up an E21 with a K24 and I will not be caging it but will most certainly be looking into other chassis stiffening ideas when it comes time to do that. I am in Australia so the regs and laws are most certainly different but from the safety aspects, exactly the same. Looking forward to seeing which direction you go with it.

[@kimmyrask7368]

I really like this project! Such a cool one! And your style of videos is great!

[@aj-fb5yi]

Ive never built a cage but i baught a 90s trans am with a cage already installed that followed the lines of the t-top structure and provided lots of head room.

[@nickbrennan3925]

I think you answered your own question regarding the roll cage dilemma, if the car is as you say a road n track focused one then you won’t need a full roll cage, a roll over hoop and some nice upper and lower strut braces in the front and back will stiffen the chassis just fine, or a hybrid approach if possible, a half cage behind the seats triangulation to the rear shock towers and an upper and lower strut in the front end will provide plenty

[@Kr8zyVids]

Been watching for a long long time and like wheels a seat can make or break a car. Look at diff seat styles before you decide on the cage. They should match each others lines so you can get in/out easier. You might not need all the hip and side support your current seat provides. A hoop and side bars should be plenty for what you are doing

[@MarkTregelt]

I think a cage would be good, safety first etc. especially without airbags. making the dorrbars low as the seat will keep most of your entry comfort. Also you could make the door bars snap/bolt, so on the street you maybe can disassemble them.

[@defendfreedom]

BRO...your attention to detail is EPIC. You have a very detailed eye for fit and finish. That being said, having suffered this issue in the past myself, might I suggest that you add some form of "abrasion protection" on the cables inside the cockpit (for the PDM). I am aware they will not actually move, but low frequency vibration throughout the chassis/body can cause the cables to "rub" so to speak. Will it rub through the insulation? Probably not, and the ground will not matter...but the positive cable is carrying a bunch of amps...Maybe at least place the ground cable against the bulkhead and stack the positive on top. Keep up the entertaining and informative vids.

[@ttt69420]

Getting close. Maybe just a simple 4 point cage. Really depends on if you plan to take it to that edge where you'd need it. If you aren't going to take it there, you don't need it. Can always add it later.

[@Anwar74]

Genuinely my favorite build series on YT. Just wanted to share some positivity.

[@Raptor58559]

Thank you for bringing all of us along on your journey to a beautiful and awesome to drive car. I am still a bit worried for the turbo oil return. We normally try to have the return line as straight down (to the oil pan in our case) and as free flowing as possible. To my knowledge you don’t want a hose that goes upwards from your turbo’s oil outlet to the tank. Please read up on this as I am not sure if this applies to all turbo setups. Everytime I see your videos I get inspired to continue work on my car.

[@homegolfaustralia1078]

Mate, from Australia. Great series of videos. Been glued to every release of this Ferrari project. Fascinating stuff with some serious engineering and fabrication that is a joy to watch the process as it unfolds. Brilliant.

[@Hydro-Québec]

Good job man its very exiting to follow ! maybe you could go for a very sturdy roll-bar setup behind the seats ?...cant wait to see that thing drive on its own power man ! thank you for sharing your work i learn something every episodes ! have a nice day and don't forget : When in doubt go flat-out !!!

[@88crxvtec88]

You can always go back and add a cage, it's much harder to go back and take one out. I'd suggest enjoying it as it is, if the fancy hits you to make it a race car later, you could add a cage. Thanks for the great content!

[@JimmyJamesMarquees]

Man I’m really impressed by your progress in welding aluminium! Great job mate! As for the cage, I see comments of people saying fixed half cage in the back and some bolt in hoops in the front sounds like a perfect solution 😁

[@dewitoosthuizen3130]

I would do a half cage but with seat bolster height side intrusion bars which run to an anchor in the footwells and from there through the front firewall to the front strut towers. I would also try to create an anchor point to a dash bar that runs from the left to the right hand side of the car.

[@gavinferguson]

good helemt make all the difference my son just got a Esab a50 airfed kit thick end of £750 but amazing to use great for lung safety. the fab work is awesome great work..

[@dlux703]

All is looking great, and my perspective on your "ingress/egress" issue is the seat you have chosen. The left side head buffer is really unnecessary when you have a helmet on, as it will bump against the roof anyway. Eliminate that and you can probably bail out lots easier in an emergency, as well as improved normal driving entry and exit.

[@Te37_daniel]

For the cage- I’ve watched the whole series and can’t remember if the roll bar you build is bolt on or welded, but can’t you have permanent B, C pillars and door bars then removable A pillar and roof bars? A total of 6 bolt-on points doesn’t seem too bad. If I recall correctly, you’d be removing the aero on the street so removing the cage can be part of that process. Permanent door bars, since you have buckets and the side bolsters seem pretty tall. Edit: similar to a Cusco bolt on cage, but the rear section can be all welded for added strength.

[@robertcummings9682]

ive seen some cages installed where the pillars are gutted and the cage ran inside them. that would help with the space constraint.

[@nikolasthyr9538]

I’d say that the best option is a half cage (rollbar and x bar) combined with some doorbars for rigidity. That way you get rollover protection and some rigidity without turning your head into soup if you’re driving without a helmet.

[@jordanchambliss6987]

I’m terms of a cage, do some looking into tension cages. Do-Luck used to make them years ago for a Nissans, Toyotas, etc. but they were aluminum and provided the rigidity you were looking for with the added weight of a full steel cage. In the case of the 308 it would seemingly give you the added chassis bracing your looking for without the potential of knocking yourself out on the street. Though you’ll probably still have to build it for the 308…

[@boerbull1443]

Half cage should be more than enough for what you want to do with it. But if you want options make a solid half cage and the test bolt on for a full cage. That way you can use it daily with the protection of the half cage and for more extreme racing you can bolt on the rest and have a the protection of a full cage.