Рет қаралды 1,044
Wow, a lot more happened in this session than I remembered. Once again, it's gotten near-flat again, with minus tides, so I didn't think I came away with much after this surf. But upon further review, there were quite a few highlights!
Most interestingly, in this session, you'll see two instances of an ongoing problem lately: Travis getting in my damn way!! As I've said before, we surf together ALL the time. And we know each other's patterns VERY well. AND this day was like 1 foot. So, how is it that Travis gets in my way not once but TWICE in one session??!! On the first occurrence, you can hear me say, CLEARLY, as we're paddling, WELL IN ADVANCE OF THE WAVE ARRIVING, "Better get out of the way!" I clocked it: it was a full 13 seconds from when I said it to when the wave broke. I'm the guy on the left, but it's my turn. Do you think that'd be enough time for Travis to get the hell out of my path? Apparently not. You can hear me say, as the wave gets closer, "Get out of the way, fucker!" I know he didn't do it on purpose, so we're both laughing that this is even happening...AGAIN. After I realize that he's fully blocked me, and that there are hardly an waves breaking, and that despite all these occurrences he's STILL my friend, I tell Travis to go because I want at least ONE of us to get it. I was just shaking my head when he paddled back out, and we were dying laughing.
So, since this has kept happening lately, and since it happened again in this very session, Travis would be on high alert and make sure he steers clear of me to ensure it doesn't happen again. Well, on the very next wave, ONLY 2.5 MINUTES LATER, I have yet another positioning battle with him. In this case, I was already the deeper one. If he had just stayed where he was, wide to my left, and let me go deeper to get the wave in the best takeoff spot, all would have been perfect. Instead, this big lummox paddled deeper into the exact spot I wanted to catch. Fortunately, I was able to still catch it, albeit in a less ideal spot. AND I got in HIS way a little later and made him smack my foot while paddling, so it's all good.
In addition to the paddle battles, we had a couple of good VERBAL battles with waves. The waves were stupid and hard to catch, so this required a lot of yelling. But Mother Nature should know her lesson by now; no matter how small the wave is, I'm coming after it, even if I have to grunt and wheeze and scream and spit up to get it.
Also, I always feel it's important to get a good stretch in your workouts. That's why I experimented with as wide a stance as possible on a couple of waves. On the first one, my foot slipped off the nose, and I think I pulled a muscle in my taint. Travis told me, in addition to all the amazing airs I pulled, that that's a good reason to wax up to my nose. So, I think I'll take his advice on that.
This edit also shows an example of one of the new tools in my surfing arsenal: my patented Functional Bodyboard Takeoff. I'm getting friggin' old, and sometimes it requires too much mental and physical effort to get up in steeper, fast-breaking sections. So, screw it, I just around sections like that now.
Lastly, our friend Axle came out, too. Axle has been surfing these waves a lot longer than we have, so we sort of look up to him. After he properly demonstrated how to nose dive into a minus tide divot, Travis was so inspired he tried to copy him on the very next wave. Get your own schtick, Travis!!!