Pants Fitting: Using Grainlines to Fine Tune the Fit

[@ttheaaliccat]

You have a wonderfully calm voice :-) I signed up for your class last year thru Pattern Review, but have been to timid to attempt it. This tutorial has inspired me to sign into your class in the New Year and get to work! Thank you, Alberta

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much! And yay, you can do it!! I’ll be there to help!

[@joannfagen4457]

Excellent and clear explanations.

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for fitting along with me!

[@tlbun9865]

This is such an amazing and useful video! I won't have to make this particular adjustment but I can see how I can apply it in reverse! Thank you so very much!

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much… & thank you for watching!

[@1wholovestrees]

This is timely as just last week I had this very problem. I’m anxious to see how it turns out now.

[@JSternDesigns]

Happy to hear! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@margemitchell6839]

Thanks so much Jennifer for the help with my pattern! I think I will try to make all the changes (original and now these) we have talked about in paper and then make a new muslin.

[@JSternDesigns]

:) Keep me posted! Thank you for letting me share your progress.

[@anna-sq3jw]

This is amazing! Thank you 👌

[@JSternDesigns]

So happy this helps you! thank you for fitting along with me

[@daraharper2003]

Thank you SO much! My figure looks the SAME way in pants. I will watch this again and again to adjust my muslin. Thank you again!

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad it was helpful! Keep me posted if you have more questions...Thanks for watching!

[@elisabettacamiciottoli6228]

GREAT idea the one of using grainline and Balance line to fit pants! Your knowledge is so helpful for me, Jane. In Italy I find no one who is able to teach about fitting, did you know?

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you so much!! It tickles my heart to know that someone in Italy is watching my video tutorials! I’m I’m so happy you found me… please keep me posted if you have specific fitting questions… I’ll help you from here in Connecticut, USA

[@paulaperedocordeiro2545]

just great! Thank you very much!!!!

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad you liked it!

[@jgsawka]

This is brilliant! I'm going to give this a try. I've got bagginess under my butt of my muslin. Hope this works!!

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much, keep me posted if you have questions!

[@heatherspeedy1325]

I’m now super lost! So many adjustments. I like to Upcycle ♻️ old 👖 to new ones. I’ve been honing in on my skills and watching your videos trying to make the perfect fitting jeans.

[@JSternDesigns]

Fitting jeans is hard! The best advice I can give you is to take it step by step. Drawing accurate grainlines will help you see where you need to add or remove fabric. Keep in mind that every adjustment you make affects other parts of the muslin. Keep me posted if you have specific questions! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@marneyb2256]

Thank you for this. It is the first very clear explanation of fixing this problem. I may be one of those who may need the angle to be close to the centre back. but I keep thinking that a 35 inch waist and a 45 inch hip cannot be that unusual. Pants that I have made this way have looked good (although I also have to make a large thigh or knockkneed adjustment to make the legs hang properly). I keep thinking there must be a way to straighten the grainline and perhaps not need the number of adjustments to the back and legs of pants that I have to do. I am going to try your suggestions on my next muslin and see what results. Thanks!

[@JSternDesigns]

If the vertical grainline is close to your CB seam and they are hanging properly, you may be right… & you don’t need to fix it!

[@janerusch6273]

Hi Fantastic video. Thank you so much. I think (hope) it might be the answer to my pants fitting woes. I've already made a flat butt adjustment (Anne Rowley's adjustment). to the pattern I'd like to improve, which helped. However, would it be better to start again from scratch - without the fba - and use your ideas first? Hope I've explained this clearly enough!!

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you :) I'm not familiar with Anne's flat butt adjustment ...I'm guessing if you need a flat butt adjustment you don't need an fba (Full Butt Adjustment)?? Is that what you're asking?

[@sofialaurinen7598]

Thanks. Great!

[@JSternDesigns]

You're welcome! Thank you for fitting along with me!

[@bethover4hu544]

Where should the grainline be on the pattern piece? On the back pattern piece, does the grainline divide the hem in half?

[@JSternDesigns]

Yes, establish your grainline from the center of the hem... then go straight up from there!

[@canansaritas]

Thank you for the clear explanations and solutions. It is very helpful to understand why a fitting issue occurs. I'm sewing a winter coat and just came across a problem with the sleeves. They turn inwards and create a gaping in the upper front arm area. This is a one piece sleeve pattern and I've paid attention to straight grain line. Could you please advise what else would cause this problem?

[@JSternDesigns]

Can you email me pics of how your sleeve looks so I can see what’s going on? ([e-mail] )

[@canansaritas]

@@JSternDesigns Thank you 🙏

[@Иринка-в1д]

Добрый день! Очень интересно👍. Но ! Очень жаль, нет русского языка 😏

[@mariontilton8494]

Are your classes online and if so how do I join?

[@JSternDesigns]

If you check the links below the comments, you’ll find my classes on Patternreview.com & my private zoom fitting classes. I will also be updating my teaching schedule starting in January:)

[@bethover4hu544]

How do I determine the slope of the straight part of the back curve that best fits my shape?

[@JSternDesigns]

I think the best way to figure that out is to see if your pant muslin is sliding down when you sit... If it is, you need more curved part, if it doesn't & the rise is not correct, lengthen or shorten the top of the straight part at the waistline. You can also add more to the crotch wedges if you need more room for your inner thigh (which will contribute more to the curved parts)

[@bethover4hu544]

What body shape works best in pants where the straight part of the back crotch curve is more slanted, say 30-45 degrees?

[@janerusch6273]

Hi Re my message below. The FBA was made as the pants collapse under my butt. The issue now is diagonal dragline sfrom knee to hip.

[@JSternDesigns]

Have you seen my new series of videos that outline the Top Down Center Out Pants Fitting Method? You may be able to fit your pants easier working with a stable non-stretch waistband that's separate from a one leg muslin. I'm having really good results with it! Here's a link to the playlist kzbin.info/aero/PLseQVksFDkNsN64DwwVI5Phfgbuzn07zK

[@ГульнараБорзова-ф8у]

У вас так интересно. Жалко что нет перевода.

[@JSternDesigns]

Я так сожалею об этом... Я единственная женская группа, и у меня есть это в моем списке, чтобы разобраться! спасибо за просмотр моего видео

[@roxannlegg750]

OMG woman...where have you been all my life. Can I marry you??? Oh course my brain is now going - "well DUH!!" with my own pants problems. KMN.

[@JSternDesigns]

:) So happy you found my channel!! Welcome & Thanks for fitting along with me

[@kayphuff]

I do believe she has a forward tilting pelvis.

[@JSternDesigns]

:) Yes she does!