Papillote Curls: historical hairdressing techniques

Janet Stephens' tutorial on 18th century boucles papillotes (butterfly curls) using triangles of tissue paper and a flat iron. Papillote curls make beautiful, strong curls even on fine limp hair. They are great for retro hairstyles. Research based on the Encyclopedie Diderot.
Background Music ("Papillotes flying", ISRC QM-UDL-12-00010) created by Janet Stephens, jntvstp, using Apple Garageband.

[@seraphinasullivan4849]

So that's what Charles Dickens meant by "yellowed curling papers in their hair"

[@lilgiggler35]

In the book "Little Women" by Louisa May Alcott, thee is a scene where Jo is using this method in an attempt to give her sister Meg curls to frame her face for a party they are going to. Unfortunately, Jo gets the tongs too hot and all Meg gets are little bundles of scorched hair laid out before her and uneven scorched fringe around her face.

[@hellybelle5]

lilgiggler35 it's not that they were too hot, she got distracted and left it in her sister's hair for too long :)

[@ladyboywonder9139]

lilgiggler35 sounds sexy

[@lornadoon845]

Poor Meg. That was one of my favorite books growing up.

[@mementomorgan6721]

That book made me depressed for days as a kid lol

[@effiahalhumbhra3755]

Had ordered the book once upon a time and postman delivered it place of work and being so stressed from duties at this time reading the title of book "Little Women," refused acceptance!😂😂😂

[@OofusTwillip]

This came back in the 1920s, as something "brand-new". The haircuts were shorter, so the curls were smaller, but it was the same 18th Century technique. A few years ago, another "revolutionary" hot-curling system came out. This one made a big deal about its "C-Shell clips", but as soon as I saw it, I recognized it as the same technique, with different technology. Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose!

[@Mrkva22296]

hey guys. I used the paper which is used for baking. When its made for baking, it should not be possible to catch on fire. It worked all well. good luck

[@neonsvampen1]

Maha chanel i should try that

[@haza37]

Well actually it can catch on fire, if you have a small oven and the paper touch the resistances. I experienced it... But I think I was quite unlucky, never happened before. (the over is fine, so was my pie) But still be a little be careful when you use it.

[@graup1309]

@Event Horizon Parchment paper actually burns at about the same temperature as regular paper, that's actually not why you use parchment paper for baking instead of just normal paper. The actual reason is that normal paper is not as heat resistent so it would already fall apart at the temperatures in an oven, despite not catching fire.

[@emmaspaz6435]

Yep parchment paper used for baking would work well for this

[@margaretkennedy1377]

Lola Loew m

[@MarsellaFyngold]

Quick correction: "papillote" = paper. Because the curls are done with (tissue)paper. Papillon = butterfly.

[@schizobarbiedoll]

thank you !

[@strawbbtarte]

God Bless The West I do not know how you come to these conclusions 😂

[@LivLaugh]

Well more than just "paper" it means "twisted paper that encloses something" Paper is "papier"

[@mook_butt8037]

+BleuHãwaii while you are correct that certain words can have more than one meaning, papillote does not mean "butterfly" in any context.

[@pflavie9360]

Also it's pronounced papi-yot

[@tateana5912]

I did this for my friend. her hair is just past her shoulders, strait and medium thickness. it took me two hours. luckily the curls stayed in for three days.

[@ggwoman]

+tateana5912 No wonder hair and makeup time used to be a social occasion!

[@tateana5912]

Well we did spend the whole time talking about "The walking dead"

[@sarahlorraine6782]

Janet, THANK YOU! As an 18th c. reenactor and historical costumer, can I put in a polite request for more eighteenth century hair dressing tutorials? I love how you demystify hairdressing, because this is one area of costuming that seems to forever elude me.

[@meeeka]

My daughter has heavy, thick and very long hair that will hold contemporary curling method curls about half and hour. Using a wet setting, rollers or curlers and industrial gel, curls last maybe an hour and then melt. I bet this might work better, or last a bit longer at least. Thanks so much! I always wondered what took Léonard so long to do Marie Antoinette's hair, now I can imagine..

[@zipzip6089]

Dear Janet Stephens, What an excellent tutorial. I'm currently immersed in translating a later version of Diderot's work on the perruquier, in Panckoucke's Encyclopédie Méthodique, and had just gotten through the hair curling section. Holy cow, your tutorial brought the entire process alive in a way print can never do. It was amazing to see the 1780s "hedgehog" hairstyle emerge from the tight spiral curls. Thank you, thank you!

[@jefrossman7546]

Hello Natalie.

[@jefrossman7546]

How are you doing?

[@ortusmodico]

I agree! I know that your specialty is the really ancient stuff, but I'm a 19th century reenactor and I would be super grateful if someone, ANYONE could make sense of the enigmatic hairstyles in period fashion magazines

[@meeeka]

And for people afraid the paper will catch fire from the iron, don't forget that the original irons were heated in the fire directly and then applied to the paper. If it hadn't worked safely then, using fire and all, it would never have developed for use.

[@thatonedog819]

I mean, they used to do all sorts of deadly stuff for bueaty.

[@julieankhan.2801]

They were also very adept at fires. Fires for cooking on & off heat, how to get a small fire for cooking, or one that smolders for a long time, large fire for boiling something like clothing, and banking a fire during the day which keeps a little fire smoldering until the eve to cook. How much kindling to use, how to utilize a fire many diff ways. We are not adept at fires today.

[@Corbeaux08]

@@julieankhan.2801 It just takes practice. People back then didn’t have all the conveniences we had now, so they had a LOT of opportunity to get VERY skilled at reading and using things that we can consider dangerous, like direct flame, firearms, and hazardous chemicals (like lye). On the other hand... they had way more accidents, it’s just that they weren’t having accidents nearly as much as we would be having them if we tried to get up one morning and just start living like them with zero adjustment period.

[@jntvstp]

Dear Anna, Thanks! the song is actually a custom sound track I arranged using apple garage band's "generic" world music clips.

[@firexx78]

I love that knife you used for the tissue paper! Beautiful

[@bridgetbrownvargus]

That moment when ur natural crazy frizzy messy curly mess of hair was actually something sought after by elites

[@WelcomeToTheScene1]

i dont know if you take requests but i was wondering if you could do the "bouffant" kind of hairstyle of the late 1800s and early 1900s. like a edwardian gibson girl kinda thing.

[@bustedkeaton]

i second this!

[@CailinnNoT]

+N Kemp it has been moved and seconded dad she does a tutorial on bouffant....lol FFA members get this

[@EuSeiT]

My grandmother used to do "papelote" (Portuguese) on my hair. She'd just cut rectangular pieces of paper, hold each to the tips of a section of hair and roll it up, twisting the ends together. I'd sleep with them. Imagine the next morning, lol! Anyway, I was little and though it was glorious. :-)

[@hannahlee3268]

Your videos are so wonderful, you are so talented and so smart! We always learn dates and things in school about history, but things like this really connect you to the people, especially as a woman. I hope your research and work is recognized for all that it is. Truly amazing how you are putting your knowledge with hair to such a creative and constructive use.

[@bass13mary]

They did continue to wear hairpieces especially the longer part just like today. I recall my mother having a fall, a pastiche and two full wigs in the 1960s that she wore between hair appointments. People have always worn wigs

[@ErilynRose]

Thank you! We tried this method and it works wonderfully even on super fine hair. :)

[@naseerahvj]

ErilynRose yes I'm wanting to try it on larger curls because I have super fine hair

[@tinapie23]

I just tried this and it worked! I practiced first by heating just the paper to make sure it won't burn during prolonged heating. Then I did it on my hair and it worked. :) A little bit more practice then I can perfect it like those hairstyles during the Baroque and Rococo (my favorite historical periods). Thank you so much! :)

[@blissgirl9052]

I just loved this video! Such wonderful narration with good historical details. I love loved how clearly the technique was shown. Thank you!

[@annwg5452]

Bliss Fancy cc

[@BiologicalClock]

The first time I tried this, my papillote fell out before I had even used the iron, and the curl was already lightly set just from being so tightly coiled and from the heat from my head. This works amazingly well for period hairstyling; I may not need to use a half-wig after all!

[@MzClementine]

Precious oh I'm trying this! My mum use to put my hair in rags. The curls would last till I washed my hair.

[@bustedkeaton]

Your work is such an inspiration. even rewatching old videos is exciting. cant wait for the next tutorial you post

[@dulceele2967]

I would love to see more 18th century tutorials, I love this era

[@Nannzee]

I'm trying this out! This is such an interesting video, the result is stunning, and it cant be as damaging as a modern curling iron!

[@marysecharbonneau1580]

Thank you so much ! I am writing an historical novel and I will get inspired by this to add details to some scenes. :)

[@sugarlove]

i love it! thank you so much for that!

[@LaDollyVita33]

This is really wonderful! I love your videos Janet. They're so fun. And the technique is VERY cool! I'd like to try this on my own hair, especially since this is a method that won't make me feel like I'm burning it to death. As my hair has gotten longer, it never seems to hold a curl anymore, so I'm very hopeful!

[@keyholes]

Wow, I love the modern result, that is stunning!

[@alomaalber6514]

(drawing at left is from Alexandria, Virginia, 1749) also sleeping in rag curls (torn cotton strips) in barely damp hair will last for a week, and can be precursor to BIG HAIR. also authentic method.

[@ursie1986]

Pronounced "Papi-ot" :) x

[@MissKristiLee]

cx1735 thank you!! Within the first minute of her mispronouncing it I was already going crazy lol.

[@kezkezooie8595]

+Kristina Dunphy me too!

[@strawbbtarte]

God Bless The West But it's French. It shouldn't be considered frivolous to pronounce a historical word correctly.

[@coolionotcool]

God Bless The West you would love Missouri. the French and the germans named everything and the English decided how to pronounce it all.

[@eileenconway2966]

Thank you! I was cringing so badly!

[@jntvstp]

I have not tried newspaper, but a few thoughts: Tissue is thinner, allowing for quicker heat transfer. If you use an actual daily newspaper (rather than blank "newsprint") the heating process may cause ink to stain your hair or irritating fumes may be produced. I would proceed with caution. If your hair is very fine and limp, make more curls using smaller strands, this I have found the most effective. Cheers! J

[@eezepeeze]

This is so cool! Almost like setting pin curls, only you do it dry. I reckon you could even do this on yourself to set the hair for retro looks. Very useful!

[@katieschilke4675]

Thanks for this tutorial! I'm a hair stylist and I love learning about the history of beauty!

[@AnnaInsanityVideo]

I love your videos! Can you do some late victorian hairstyles? My job includes my dressing up as a lady from the 1880s and I'm always looking for fun ways to do my hair!

[@ramona9130]

Garden Wall fun ass job. what is it?

[@lese91]

Extremely interesting! I always wondered how people back then curled their hair.

[@PercivalHoward]

Very fascinating, as usual. I just love your videos - I learn so much and get inspired! Thank-you so much for posting.

[@ciarrawilson6080]

I have very fine hair and papillote curls and rag curls are the only way I can curl my hair. If I use a curling iron they’ll last for 15 minutes tops then go limp. So if you have super fine hair I highly recommend papillote or overnight curls.

[@pibly7784]

Wow- I experienced exactly what you’re talking about ! I have super fine hair and indeed- the curling iron results faded fast. Good to know ! ,

[@fiona36b]

Loved to wear these curls the last five years of schooling.

[@jennlady86]

What a fabulous video! I LOVE historical hairstyles, and they can be so hard tor recreate without info like this! Though, I have to say, since the word comes from the French word for butterfly, papillote is pronounced 'pah-pee-YOTE'. I'm sorry if that sounds snobby, I just thought you might want to know. Again, I love your video!

[@KateandBree]

This actually looks easier than pin curling (and my fine hair can keep its incredible shine!) I learned something new from history for my super curl resistant hair! Off to the flat iron!

[@BeccaMoses]

thank you ! I dig historical hairstyling and my fav way to look at how to do it is from period sources, which works really well for setting patterns for curls after like 1920, but recently I’ve been getting into more edwardian and earlier stuff, and while there are plenty of books of recipes for pomades and guides to styles, most of the time they’ll just say “and then curl the hair with an iron or papillotes” and i had only the vaguest idea of what that entails.

[@memorellie]

I've always loved these curls!

[@LucretiaPearl]

I love your videos! I have been getting ideas as I'm doing a more 18th century look for Halloween (mostly period correct), so this has been very helpful. I don't really recommend doing what I did, but I (having no hair savvy friends nearby & being super careful) just attempted this on my own hair. As you'd imagine, it's hard to properly see what you're doing with the back curls & it's a bit tough (especially for a first ever trial) to properly twist the hair & fold the tissue paper, but even with some of the papers falling out before fully cooled, the curls were fairly bouncy & fun! :D I will at least be doing a few papillote curls for my Halloween hair, but I really can't wait to try it on a friend's hair!

[@Cowardkid]

Every day you learn something new, I'm so happy after watching this :3

[@petalpotionsart]

I LOVE these videos so much, they're so fascinating!

[@bellarosa009]

Very interesting!! My hair is already curly, so I guess I'm lucky.

[@ecwilliams82]

Very cool! I look forward to using this technique for my next regency event!

[@violetstarhaze]

Yup, this is my new favorite youtube channel! I just love your videos!

[@GrEeNeYeDfAvOrDrEaMs]

I absolutely loved this video!!!! Thank you, i simply have to try this out.

[@Uncle_Smidge]

Hehehe. A sound clip of the BG music was sampled and pitch-shifted for the beginning of Brooke Candy's track, "Everybody Does". Be warned if you go to listen; it is very explicit rap. The sample is only in the very first few seconds, though. Back to the focus of the video... while the technique is pretty standard, the ease of removing the papers makes this method seem pretty viable compared to hot rollers and the like. I may have to try it soon. :D

[@anjelicac2624]

Smidgeroo I thought I recognised it ! Nice one 👍

[@ssarryo]

I thought "papillon" was butterfly in French and not papillote. According to google translate, papillote refers to the pieces of paper that were used to curl the hair.

[@ssarryo]

***** Hmm, yes translations are a minefield. :)

[@flibbertygibbet]

I know this is old but en Papillote is french for in Parchment.

[@reenougle]

It is pronounced "pa-pee-yot" and is the same word for cooking fish in greaseproof paper in the oven "en papillote"

[@mook_butt8037]

You're correct, papillon is butterfly. Papillote essentially means "paper wrapper".

[@mook_butt8037]

+reenougle writing it as "-yot" is not correct, it's closer to "-yote".

[@sarahb1862]

You are so good at explaining the steps!

[@sebreajackson1260]

Women back then were so pretty to me

[@kh22912]

Those curls are amazing!

[@oldfashiondolls]

Love your research and tutorials!

[@darlenemazurkiewicz2708]

That's'a lot of work! I will stick with damp hair in regular curlers. Works for me. Hairdos last a full week.

[@Mia-de8xf]

Interesting! Those curls look beautiful

[@beawhite4516]

your videos are always so informative, polished and interesting, thanks for sharing this knowledge :D

[@LisaFreemontStreet]

I must try these for 1940s styles!!

[@valeriancmw4975]

That's just what I was thinking! If you try them, please respond with how they work out.

[@sabrinatscha2554]

Cool! Love the music too.

[@SarahBent]

So pleased to see your new video today I started watching older videos again. I would love to see your techniques for pin curls. I use foam rollers for 40s and 50s styles but cant seem to manage pin curls. You taught me how to French braid so I was hoping you could help with this too. Oh - and my daughter (8) says thanks because she can almost sit on her hair. French braids are very comfy for all that hair. ;)

[@jefrossman7546]

Hello Sarah.

[@jefrossman7546]

How are you?

[@c.allynpierson4194]

Thanks very much! I think part of the problem with my curls is that I can't leave them all day for an evening ball and with pincurls and just air drying there is not enough "ooomph"- it needs heat or wet hair allowed to completely dry. I am going to try this and I have a feeling that the heat will work better. Thanks for the reply and the fascinating videos!

[@jefrossman7546]

Hello Allyn.

[@jefrossman7546]

How are you doing?

[@momtomtse]

This is perfect!

[@twominutetips]

Wonderful research - thanks so much for sharing as I am a huge fan of all beauty vintage.

[@jefrossman7546]

Hello my dear.

[@jefrossman7546]

How are you?

[@AA-hy6nb]

Wow! Perfect! Thank you for the tutorial!

[@T3KnoLogiKgirL]

This is soooo cool!! I always wondered about that! Thank you so much for doing this!!

[@CLIOXVIII]

Vive les perruques ! Et 10000 mercis à ma coiffeuse.

[@Traptintuck]

You're right, 'papillote' would be 'parchment' or 'parcel.' The correct French word for 'butterfly' is actually 'papillon.'

[@clairesalittleoff1398]

The double L in French is pronounced as a Y sound. Pap-ee-ote

[@MissJessyeNorman]

Pa-pee-yote. You forgot to put where the "y" goes ;)

[@jntvstp]

I'm glad they're working for you! happy curling! J

[@jefrossman7546]

Hello Janet.

[@jefrossman7546]

How are you?

[@28chocogirl]

beautiful technique😍

[@linesandshadows]

When I was a little girl my mom used to make papillote in my hair. I miss that time.

[@1taffycat]

I love your videos! I would love to see a picture of papillotes curls next to pin curls next to rag curls to be able to see the difference between them. Do you think they would do this often/like every day? Do these curls last for more than a day? I'm sure if you did it often you would be able to do it quickly.

[@neppiesworld9432]

This was amazing!! I thoroughly enjoyed this video!

[@catrionahall8435]

Fabulous insights.

[@bouzakmaya3260]

i like this, i will try it

[@raianaml]

Excellent!!! Thank you!

[@AileenEstrada]

so helpful and very clear too! Thank you so much !

[@HikariDansu]

This was super enjoyable to watch! I really liked the video, thanks :)

[@JustMe-ob3nw]

Love the music 🎼🎼🥁🥁🥁🎼🎼🎼

[@jntvstp]

Dear JK, this technique is done on dry hair only. Hope that helps! J

[@sambarcley794]

I am studying 18th Century hairstyles for college and this is great, so thank you! Just one question, Is the hair dry when you put the papillotes in or is wet?

[@jntvstp]

Sorry for the late reply! when heat styling the hair is always dry. cheers, J

[@julieankhan.2801]

xShift FN - what fun to be studing that

[@kelseyf2619]

Very informative and well made video, thank u for sharing!!

[@beyourpetchannel]

Awesome vid, would be really interested in trying this!

[@sophiajune546]

*stares at my huge frizzy thick hair* this will take a century

[@tinglesrosyrupeeland]

Gorgeous!! :O

[@ageorgiapeach9442]

Love ur videos. So interesting. Love the music, too.

[@margaretflood4811]

Really enjoyed that! Very interesting!

[@jntvstp]

No, really, I strung it together using "anonymous performance" audio clips in the world music Jam Pack for garage band (this is an older program; must keep an obsolete computer running to use it). Sadly, Apple always builds in planned obsolescence so you have to rebuy stuff or the program you love disappears completely. As long as I can keep that lap top running, I can make the music I need. Cheers, J

[@drkmgic]

I love this!! Subcribed

[@hechetonchieres]

@7:23, FIIiiinally! ;) That is really cool. What did people wash their hair with back then?

[@Concetta20]

This is amazing! I always wondered how they did that.

[@jefrossman7546]

Hello Anna.

[@jefrossman7546]

How are you?

[@KawaiiDansu]

Thanks for the great video, I learned so much :)

[@WackyLisa]

I may try this. Thanks. :)

[@jiniefox6126]

thank you for sharing. i found it really intresting

[@jefrossman7546]

Hello Jinie.

[@jefrossman7546]

How are you?

[@julieankhan.2801]

Wow they come out easy. I thought you would have to unwind and cont to get them out.

[@jntvstp]

Thank you! I don't think a blow dryer can give you the quick burst of heat you need to make the hair curl inside the paper. A flat iron is the closest analog to the original pincer tool.

[@JE-vv3nj]

Were pieces of fabric ever used for these types of curls? I've seen movies set in the regency period where they appeared to use fabric, and I wanted to know if that was founded in any kind of historical accuracy