Paraffin / kerosene / petrole inverter heater: Cleaning the filter

[@ivanfurlan4060]

Buon giorno Ho acquistato la vostra prestigiosa stufa Inverter 5026 Bellissima , silenziosa , se accesa in satanza a staccata lodore si neutralizza poi portandola in salotto ove serve con prolunga altrimenti rimane puzza acensione e spegnimento tutta la giornata . Ho fatto prove con tutti i combustibili atuali . Cosa peggiore e che dopo 3 ore laria e inesistente soffochi . Altra cosa ancora peggio per chi scalda stanza fredda e che per terra e sui muri cerati si forma una condensa da sauna . Conclusione dopo essermi notevolmente informato , queste stufe a liquido e gas per quel che mi riguarda , sono solo una gran fregatura innutile , sono ingestibili , possono essere impieghate solo in garage o ripostigli non isolati . Se come me uno vuole impiegharla in casa lo invito vivamente casa mia a spiegharmi come si fa , gli pago anche le spese di disturbo . Cari signori io direi che il vostro prodotto cosi come e e solo una bella estetica , copiato da vari enti ma innutile totale . Io di solito utilizzo stufette eletriche , a pellet 12Kw , e un carissimo amore di Cinebasto cinese a prezzo consumo 2€ ora 8 Kw pagato € 80 Ma mi chiedo possibile che azziende cosi note come vostre realta si ritrovino con prodotti cosi assurdi , sponsorizzati dai centri come Tecnobrico , Eurobtrico , ecc come ottimi prodotti da salotto o da riscaldamento . Sono molto deluso mi sono rivolto a tantissimi enti anche a voi stessi con sempre la stessa risposta : ottimo prodotto , consuma poco , ideale per riscaldarsi Be tutte balle ottimo ma inutilizabile da impieghare solo per ambienti ariegiati ove esistono prodotti migliori ( Funghi , Cannoni disel , ecc ) Pagata a Tecnomat € 200 venduta in altri centri € 398 belle truffe . Distinti saluti scusatemi ma mi sento solo rapinato alla grande .

[@EngineTuning]

That was a great read Ivan. Thankfully it translated very well, and was very humourous. I loved the transitions ... from 'it smells' to "The worst thing is that after 3 hours the air is non-existent and you suffocate" ... moving swiftly on to the condensation (Hahahah). I also liked your trick of 'But wait! Thers's more' (I'm reading it through notifications) :D At this point, it becomes clear that this is a letter of complaint to the company who sold you the heater. I do believe that if you are going to burn your bridges with a company; this IS the way to do it. I only have one minor critique with the final sentence (I'm being picky): "Sincerely sorry but I just feel robbed big time." I understand the empathetic 'sorry' (also very British, in fact). It works, but I would have gone with: "Sincerely, I feel robbed big time." However, this was a well composed letter. How many hours did it take you to complete it? It deserves to be 'pinned' for a while :D Thanks for taking the time to share your literary output. :)

[@mohamedkhalil8604]

L9

[@jeroen4203]

I just want to say that you make it look very easy on how to clean it. I tried it myself because I got the e02 error multiple times. I followed your instructions step by step and its real easy to do it yourself. Thank you!

[@EngineTuning]

Nice! Really pleased that the video helped :)

[@Dearjohn999]

I’ve had my Inverter for over 10 years and a few years ago I started getting the E04 then E01 Coming up so I completely serviced it this year myself and cleaned the Carbon all off as I was fed up of restarting it till it worked (to be honest it was very interesting and made me understand it a lot better off how it works). I was surprised how easy it was and cleaned all the carbon deposits off the Igniter & flame rod. This show how bad fuel effects the performance not allowing i-ons to pass over time, anyone who buys one should do it trust me…..purified fuel for me from now on, this cheap paraffin gives off odours and isn’t suitable for indoor heaters…if you start getting white smoke when you start it every year you need to clean the inside with wire wool….I wouldn’t use water but only paraffin to clean it to be on the safe side 👍

[@EngineTuning]

That's a great report! Thanks for sharing it with us :)

[@badinoubadinou3774]

merci .Grace à vos conseils, j'ai pu redémarrer mon poêle à chauffage pétrole en panne. Merci encore

[@EngineTuning]

C'est une bonne nouvelle, badinou :)

[@DaveHammond2]

Winter here in Shetland Isles and thanks for great series on inverter!

[@EngineTuning]

Thanks Dave :)

[@greenlover4522]

Great video. You are the only one on internet who repair these heater. Other videos also great.

[@EngineTuning]

Thanks green lover :) In the northern hemisphere, the cold is drawing in ... time to get the heater out. ... time to service it, in readiness :)

[@marilynkearns9913]

My inverter heater is not throwing out enough heat, it used to. It seems to be coming out of the right hand side of front grill only, any ideas? You helped me with CO2 senso repair! It worked exactly as you said it would Thank you

[@EngineTuning]

Hi Marilyn It is the rear fan that blows the heat out. Vacuum all the dust that is blocking the fan intake. While doing that, you can also clean the air intake filter. Examine the fan blades ... they may need cleaning :)

[@LeeJones-jq9zu]

I never normally comment on videos. But today I say a big thank you your video was just what I needed. I appreciate you for putting in the time to help others

[@EngineTuning]

Thanks Lee for those kind words :)

[@christianlofaro5578]

From your opinion ,is it possible to Access the contact of the on/off button?i wish use the device automatically with a remote decoder

[@Organikmechanic]

Thanks ET, really clearly demonstrated. I'm just about to look at one of these heaters for a friend and this has been a really helpful vid. Best wishes from Normandie, Andy.

[@EngineTuning]

Cheers Andy. I have produced another vid that may be helpful, particularly if you are sourcing the heater from Le Bon Coin. It has just finished uploading, so it has no subtitles yet, and it is unlisted. But you can have a watch before final publication: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eXWqiXt3oNt3h8U Another vid is to follow, providing more details behind my method to increase the heat output (as outlined in the above vid). You know my previous videos on these heaters. Here is the playlist for others reading this comment thread: kzbin.info/aero/PLeHV-kNBKNNfEtkx0cTb-mbtelhpNOPFa Check out the vid concerning fuel, as there are two types. In France, you will know that the supermarkets are now providing 20lt containers of the correct fuel for these heaters (C1 grade). Cheaper 'home heating fuel (oil)' does burn ... but at a lower temperature, with more pollutants. Logically, by boosting the combustion temperature to that of C1 fuel ... more of the lower grade fuel pollutants will be burned off, and there will be less carbon clogging problems. However, I would still recommend that your mate buys the C1 grade, and further boost its already high level of efficiency, to reduce fuel consumption. We need to play tricks, after the price hike. Last year I paid €17 for 20lt of C1

[@roblancer]

HIYA...... fantastic videos...but......were can you buy spares ?? My controller isnt responding so can't adjust temp or time etc...... regards Robert

[@EngineTuning]

Hey Robert, that's a good question. It's not like there exists a huge aftermarket scene for this type of heater. You are gonna have to do some digging, to find a spares outlet for your machine and model. Good luck! Let us know how you got on.

[@roblancer]

@@EngineTuning ok thanks,keep up the good work

[@michaelbyrnes7386]

Thanks for that, nice and clear presentation

[@EngineTuning]

Thanks for those kind words Michael :)

[@mrpaulie45able]

Thank you for the video! Do you find that these Inverter heaters with clean paraffin fuel generate a lot of condensation? I use it in a large bedroom with double glass patio doors and in the morning I have to physically wipe away the condensation on both windows and doors. I had the same problem with my old kerosene heater! Tks

[@EngineTuning]

Personally, I'd buy an electric blanket, and not use the heater in the bedroom. An electric blanket is far more efficient, with the heat trapped by the quilt. Not only is the bed toasty, but the mattress is dried out. With such a simple, and cost effective heating solution; there is no need to be breathing fumes while sleeping. RE Condensation The dew point formula is based upon humidity, air temperature, and surface temperature. Ie. Even double glazing can get coated in condensation This is made worse, when using gas or paraffin heaters, as they both create moisture. Overall, the electric blanket wins by a mile :)

[@EngineTuning]

It is now 06/02/2020 Time to review the video. :) ... and wow! ... 44 people decided that it was a bad idea, to explain how to clean the fuel filter :D Hahaha ... it's important that we laugh. Otherwise; lots of nice comments from around the world. ... thank you to all those who took the time. Hopefully, you are all keeping warm, and staying safe. Best wishes....

[@sebastiankolodziejski654]

Hello. I have a problem with my zibro laser stove. Lc300. it is new but the fuel pump is not working. The glow plug heats up but the fuel pump does not deliver fuel. e2 error pops up. it wont start. . can this pump be repaired? is it magnetic or inductive? or where you can buy such a pump. thank you for your reply.

[@EngineTuning]

@@sebastiankolodziejski654 Hey Sebastian! Stuff is now produced with very minimal QC. QC is typically now the customer. You buy it, and it doesn't work ... so you tell the supplier. The supplier says: 'bring it in for exchange, or money back'. You say 'okay, give me another'. It works. QC is satisfied by a % returns, and an accepted cost to the business. Meanwhile on Beasley Street, you have suffered all the pissing around :)

[@paulettesterling]

Hello. Great video. I have the Zibro LC2230 purchased September last year. Its still working great, but I have noticed on a lower flame output, the blue flame is starting to throw random yellow flecks, sometimes large. I have previously gotten as far as disassembling the air filter at the back, but with the fuel just about done, I am prepared to strip it down during the summer season to attempt to clean it out. Would you know the specific culprit for the random yellow flame flecks? Again great videos.

[@EngineTuning]

That's a well formulated question Paul. There are two fuels that you could be using kzbin.info/www/bejne/moPQo3iFd9h4etk: Highly refined paraffin, specifically for non-vented heaters ... This burns cleaner, and hotter. Home heating oil (kerosene), specifically for vented heating systems (usually boilers). ... This burns less cleanly, less hot, so the fumes must be vented. However, many people use this, because it is much cheaper (though more dangerous to health). The kerosene fuel is more likely to clog the flame rod, therefore a regular summer strip will keep the heater running fine during the winter. Now factor in, the act of reducing heat output. Both approach 'incomplete combustion', but kerosene approaches this quicker. Solution Buy 5 litres of acetone. Mix it 0.5 - 1% with the fuel (5 -10ml to 1Lt) This breaks the surface tension of the fuel, resulting in greater atomisation, when injected. The fuel burns hotter, and cleaner. Hence it pays for itself in greater heat output, and reduced maintenance. It also allows you to reduce the fuel flow (heat output), whilst maintaining a clean burn. In addition, it will combine with moisture, and help that pass through the system. In effect, it is a 'super additive'. You can also buy a water filter funnel, because even expensive paraffin can contain water at the bottom of the container. Always pour, or siphon the fuel with care, when approaching the bottom. For older cars, diesel or petrol; acetone improves combustion. If an engine is running a bit ragged ... add the mix to the fuel tank, and listen as it makes its way to combustion. The engine will begin to purr. If you have been using high end paraffin (with a picture of an indoor heater on the label) ... then, after just one season, the heater probably can wait another year for a service. However, use acetone to keep it clean, and monitor the flame from time to time. Also siphon the fuel out of the base reservoir, at end of season, and you may never need to clean the flame rod. :) Like and subscribe, to help the channel ;)

[@paulettesterling]

@@EngineTuning Hello. Thank you for the detailed response. Much appreciated. I forgot to mention that I have been using the C1 graded Paraffin from Bartoline (I'm in the UK), the cheapest out of the C1 graded paraffins. I haven't really heard of the use of Acetone in these heaters until your videos, so I might would have to give it a try. I've already been using an additive called Dipetane which is meant to be one of those "hidden wonder" additives. Gets glowing praise from car owners using the stuff in petrol and especially in diesels, but its also formulated to run in Paraffin burners too. A colourless extremely refined oil according to the website. Mixed 1:200 ratio with all fuels. I've been using it in my model petrol tabletop engines and Aladdin oil lamps and it does keep the carbon at bay. Not noticed any adverse effects so far. There are also a growing number of owners of these specific paraffin heaters where they have been adding Dipetane into the tank and it apparently keeps the carbon charring to a minimum in the burner chamber. The link below is the website for the additive www.dipetane.com If you scroll down in this link below, it goes into detail with the use of Dipetane and keeping the parts cleaner. He runs this website about comparing energy costs and fuels. However he does take a different attitude with the use of C2 paraffin, but as for me, I would rather stay with C1 for health, safety and heater longevity reasons. electricheatingcosts.com/home-heating-using-paraffin-inverter-heaters/

[@devoloid]

Thanks 👍mine kept cutting out above 14deg..working again.

[@EngineTuning]

Good news Dave :)

[@MiMi-hw5vp]

Très bonne vidéo et très bonne traduction continuer merci félicitations

[@EngineTuning]

Ah.... merci pour ca Mi Mi :)

[@Chickey]

great video thankyou, do you know where you can buy replacement filters in the UK?

[@EngineTuning]

They only need replacing if they get broken. In normal use, this cannot happen. Therefore, finding a replacement is likely to be problematic, to impossible.

[@Chickey]

@@EngineTuning Strange tone in the reply but thanks regardless. I have found one online.

[@EngineTuning]

@@Chickey I don't understand the 'tone' reference? The filter is well protected, and is cleanable. Therefore it is not a component that normally needs replacing. Hence my prediction that they would be difficult to source. Well done for finding one.

[@fannywulles7705]

Grand merci. J'ai pu nettoyer le filtre ...... qui en avait bien besoin

[@EngineTuning]

C'est une excellente nouvelle Fanny Je suis vraiment heureux que cela vous a aidé à faire le travail. Il commence à faire froid maintenant ... donc vous avez fait la bonne chose à préparer.

[@manonfauconnier6827]

Thanks for your video. I've got the code error EH with this inverter heater. Do you have any idea what it could be? The heater can't no longer set the right temperature and after 5min it turns off...

[@EngineTuning]

EH Error Code In most cases, the Corona EH error code is caused by the temperature inside the heater, exceeding safe operating levels. So in other words, the inverter heater is overheating and the EH error code indicates an internal overheat situation, which immediately causes the heater to shut down. The main cause of the Corona EH error code is dust clogging either the air intake at the rear of the heater, or the hot air outlet grill at the front of the heater, and you should clean both of these. Corona ‘EH’ errors can also be caused by objects, (such as furniture) being placed too close to the heater, and you should always ensure that there is plenty of airspace around your Corona Inverter heater when in operation. It is also important to make sure that there is plenty of ventilation in the room where you are using your heater, because lack of fresh air (ventilation) in the room can also cause the ‘EH’ error code, so try opening a window slightly and move the heater so that its rear intake fan is as close as possible to the open window. If this advice, fails to solve your Corona EH Error code, then you will need to clean and service your heater.

[@manonfauconnier6827]

@@EngineTuning thanks a lot for your answer. I don't understand because I have already cleaned everything inside the heater and it's located exactly at the same place as last year. Last year I didn't have the problem. I'm gonna check it one more time. (sorry for mistakes I'm French)

[@EngineTuning]

@@manonfauconnier6827 The problem is that error codes do not always match the error. Did you start the heater with last years fuel in the tanks? If so, you will need to pump out the old fuel and start it on fresh fuel. Other than that, clean the flame rod. Other than that, it could be a temperature sensor issue.

[@manonfauconnier6827]

@@EngineTuning thank you for your time and your piece of advice. I'm gonna change the fuel because as you said it is the old one in it. Maybe that's why I've got the problem. I'll keep you in touch.

[@yunowot]

Thanks.

[@EngineTuning]

:)

[@aidancunningham7529]

Thank you for taking the time to for this video definitely helped

[@steveo3002]

i remember seeing one of you videos suggesting adding a touch of acetone to the kerosene for a better burn , could you remind me of the ratio to add please?

[@EngineTuning]

Hi Steve :) 1% is fine. You can go as low as 0.5% It's not to add highly flammable fuel. The acetone breaks the surface tension of the paraffin, causing improved vapourisation. Hence the cleaner, and more efficient burn.

[@steveo3002]

@@EngineTuning thanks will give it a try

[@yadmala3593]

At first thanks I have toyotomi kerosene heater have abad smell( smell of kerosene ) .... my question is what should I clean it or fix it ?

[@EngineTuning]

In general, you should keep the heater clean. Dirt will absorb fuel, which will slowly and constantly release an odour. If it is an injection type inverter heater, the flame rod may be caked in carbon. This will affect fuel regulation, and it may be burning inefficiently. When using base kerosene, the flame rod will need to be cleaned. Otherwise, check the condition of the wick.

[@yadmala3593]

@@EngineTuning thank you very much. God bless you

[@hanswiesel3221]

Hi there, I have an rather old Inverter 5902 used rarely. Last weeks I used it to heat up our garden pavilion with "old" paraffin slightly red coloured. Now I try to start with new "paraffin" which is not coloured - simply crystal clear, its Toyotomi Plus according to data should be fine. Nevertheless the Inverter 5902 does not start and gives an error "F2" - already cleaned filter but still does not start. It tries twice to fire then goes off with fault "F2". Any hint or adjustment of the inverter for the paraffin needed? I am based in Germany and Paraffin is hard to get here, so switching back to old paraffin (red coloured) is not really an option. Thanks

[@EngineTuning]

Could be water in the fuel. Shocking though it may sound ... there is usually water at the bottom of the paraffin container. This is why people use a funnel with a water filter in it. If it is water, you need to suck out the fuel from the fixed reservoir. Drain the portable reservoir to another container, to let it settle for later use. Water sinks in paraffin, so if it gets in the portable reservoir; when you up turn the reservoir ... Hahaha; the water is the first liquid to run into the fixed reservoir (Nice!). Buy some acetone and add 1% to the fuel. The fuel will burn cleaner and hotter. Also, the acetone will absorb moisture. You don't lose your money, because you get more heat from the heater, and the burner will stay clean ;) If it's not water, then you will need to clean the flame rod kzbin.info/aero/PLeHV-kNBKNNfEtkx0cTb-mbtelhpNOPFa Good luck!

[@jerem74t]

Merci!!

[@ashleybarrie1165]

I have a Qlima SRE CO 30x paraffin heater but the FUEL warning keeps flashing and so will not ignite. I watched your video thinking the filter was the problem but it was clean and I cleaned it anyway to be sure but still have FUEL warning. I changed the paraffin in tank but still no progress. Any ideas?

[@EngineTuning]

Nothing is certain Ashley. The error codes are often misleading. Also, you must try to think in an organised manner, as if this is not your problem. Imagine it was a friend asking you for advice. I'll bet that the first question that you asked would be "has it been running okay"? "Did it not re-start after replenishing the fuel"? "Did you meticulously remove all the fuel from the fixed reservoir, before filling with fresh fuel that is not contaminated with water"? "How far does it get in the startup procedure (when does the error code appear)"? etc. etc. Do you see what I mean? You must think logically, when troubleshooting a machine, if you are to discover where the fault is, or ask for advice ;)

[@jacintad10]

Thanks for the video. Can you tell me where you could get a spare filter

[@EngineTuning]

I don't know. However, the filters are robust, so there is no need to keep a spare.

[@Wolf-if1bt]

Thank you. It worked !

[@EngineTuning]

Nice!

[@joramlee]

Thank you, we are warm again

[@EngineTuning]

That's 'exactly' what I like to hear :) Let's hope that your comment doesn't get deleted ;)

[@omar_Elnabelsi]

Thank you for your efforts. I have an aladdin heater and it appeared on the screen HHH and it stopped working and I did not find a solution to this problem, knowing that there is no reset button on the electronic board. Please help and thank you

[@EngineTuning]

This is difficult because the heaters can have unpublished codes that are only understood by technicians who have the 'workshop manual'. Consider following my video on repairing the heater, and also make sure that the electrical connections are all good ... and replace the old fuel with fresh fuel. If this basic yearly service doesn't solve the problem, then there may be a failed electrical component. Good luck :)

[@omar_Elnabelsi]

@@EngineTuning thank you so much and good luck

[@denisjohnson5511]

I have the same issue. Did you fix the problems?​@@omar_Elnabelsi

[@PhG1961]

Thnxs for sharing ! You just made my day !

[@mathw2703]

Kero sre 4600 emits a cloud of smoke when lighting it...any ideas?

[@EngineTuning]

Collect it using a big bin bag ;)

[@currahee55]

When I turn on my heater it gets nice and hot but after about 10 mins I just feel the cold fan blowing and there isn't much heat coming out. Is this normal?

[@EngineTuning]

It is not normal. Was the flame extinguished? By that, meaning that the fan is blowing air through the still warm heater. That would be strange, because with no flame the heater should switch off.

[@currahee55]

@@EngineTuning the flame is still on

[@EngineTuning]

@@currahee55 That's a five word answer ... nice!

[@zumurudatalbahar9741]

Thanks sir.. I have problem in this heater..I use normal oil in the last winter, in this winter there is E-9 symbole.. I hope you can help

[@EngineTuning]

E9 indicates that the heater has been knocked. Place the heater on a flat surface. Connect the power, and switch on. Wait until the error code appears. Disconnect the power. Connect the power ... repeat above ... at least six times. Did that work? Help others, and report back here ;)

[@zumurudatalbahar9741]

@@EngineTuning Thanks sir Does it mean there is no need to clean pump like your video?

[@EngineTuning]

We don't know. What I know, is that all the heaters, out there in the world, that use mid grade oil... They all would benefit from cleaning. The above video, deals with the filter. However, the main problem area is the flame rod. It can get coated with carbon. This effects the fuel delivery ... creating more carbon ... creating worsening fuel delivery, If the heater doesn't start (after the previous procedure) ... I would change the fuel, including the fuel in the fixed reservoir (especially the fixed reservoir). If no joy ... clean the flame rod. Go to my channel and find the playlist for these heaters.

[@zumurudatalbahar9741]

@@EngineTuning I did what you told me,E9 still..then I cleaned the flame rod & changed gas..now I see code E2.. Thanks

[@EngineTuning]

E2 indicates bad fuel.

[@ezio99ez]

I get a FUEL error even though the tank is full. I tried to clean the filter, and it was perfect (stove used at most 50 hours). Turns on and after about 15 minutes FUEL error and then turns off. Some advice ? Thank you.

[@EngineTuning]

It could be the fuel. Very often there is water in the fuel container. You can buy funnels with a water filter. Otherwise, it should still be under guarantee ... take it back!

[@مسلمجزائري-ذ9ب]

THANK YOU

[@EngineTuning]

You are very welcome :)

[@sherkoyar175]

Sir whould you please tell me what cause E1.(my heater is Sharp Platina 201 model)

[@EngineTuning]

It is probably a flame rod error. Follow the steps outlined in this video, and your problems should be solved: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jHSQZmlrbK9_nrc Good luck! Report back on your progress :)

[@stephenmcintosh9912]

What is e08 fault on these heaters please

[@mrlongtime59]

Before i could turn temperature down from 20 to 16 now it don't any ideas thanks

[@EngineTuning]

Check out my other heater videos, showing how to service the heater. :)

[@bender2712]

Gracias !

[@EngineTuning]

Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment :)

[@ianmottos4476]

Hi I was wondering if you are familiar whith this type of stove by moving it it shuts off after that when you turn it on, smokes come out and it doesn't turn on anymore Do you have any suggestions. Cheers

[@EngineTuning]

In principal; if the stove is knocked, and then doesn't start ... you need to place the stove on a flat surface, then repeat the startup procedure until it starts. This might require 5 attempts. What is not evident, is why the heater is smoking? Normally, after a knock, it will fail at the outset. After pressing the start button, you need to monitor what is happening. With the front cover off, you can see the CO2 sensor flashing. You can hear the fan start. You can hear the clicking of the sparker. The fuel well is heated - the oil is injected into the fuel well, creating a gas (due to the heat) The sparker begins - this ignites the gas, and an initial puff of smoke is created. Therefore, your description of 'doesn't turn on' needs to be replaced by 'the sequence of events that happen'.

[@ianmottos4476]

@@EngineTuning hi and thanks for the information I dont hear a spark or flame that might be why it won't turn on How do I fix that. Cheers

[@EngineTuning]

Ian ... you need to list what IS happening. What is displayed on the screen when you switch it on? Does the CO2 sensor flash? Is fuel injected into the well. Does the well get hot. You talked earlier about smoke. Is this paraffin vapour from the heated well? Does the display change to an error code? The more information that you provide, the easier it is to suggest a fix. Without information ... what hope is there?

[@dj-steveallrounddjclaeys6022]

Hello! Do you know what Error 08 means please? Stops after 5 minits.

[@EngineTuning]

What heater?

[@papyduss6267]

Bonjour, j'ai fais la révision suivant votre tuto mais malgré cela je retrouve du pétrole dans la gouttière à la base du poele

[@EngineTuning]

I have also experienced this. There is no explanation. ... Sometimes, we must accept that reality is bizarre! :)

[@BillSikes.]

I'm thinking of getting one of these, they sell paraffin in my local petrol station in 4ltr packs, £7:99 but I know another petrol station that sells red diesel and Heating Oil straight from the pumps at £0:75p a litre, but I'm wondering if it'll work with standard Heating Oil, before I splash out £300 on one, any advice anyone, I reckon I could half my winter gas/electricity bills if they do work on heating oil or red diesel

[@EngineTuning]

The 'inverter' type is way better than the original simple wick type, and even much better than the more advanced Japanese wick heaters (which in turn, are far better than the original simple wick heaters). The Jap wick heaters are great when operating at full heat, but heat output adjustment isn't great. When you lower the wick, the combustion temperature drops, meaning that combustion is not complete - increasing the toxicity of the fumes. The Jap wick heaters stink on start up & shut down. The Jap inverters (I believe they are all Japanese, just rebadged by importers) stink on start up. I've never been able to cure this problem at source. I use a big bin bag. Upon starting, the combustion chamber is heated. At temp, the sparks fly (clicking sound) - then fuel is injected. The fuel vaporises and ignites - an annoying puff of smoke is ejected through the grill. I catch the smoke in the bin bag, and eject it outside ... job done! Thereafter it burns extremely cleanly, even when the temp control is reduced to the minimum. (reducing to the minimum is probably required, once the room is warm, because these heaters really chuck out heat, and you save a lot of fuel) Maybe if you buy a stove new, this initial puff of smoke will not occur. If you do buy a new inverter heater ... please remember to report your experience here - that would be VERY useful ;) ... so far we have not had any specific comments on this issue from latest gen heaters. I'll answer your fuel question on my 'fuel safety vid' as I see that you have appropriately left a comment on that vid - Nice! Take note of my comment : kzbin.info/www/bejne/moPQo3iFd9h4etk

[@anjasmit1415]

My inverter is suddenly leaking oil out of nowhere it happens when I put the tank in I’ve 2 the same other tank also other filter also what’s the problem?

[@EngineTuning]

Are you saying that you have two portable tanks? Are you saying that both tanks have begun to leak at the same time?

[@motazkhadra]

How can I contact you to solve a problem?

[@EngineTuning]

It's not difficult. It just takes commitment to getting the explanation perfect. Type it in Notepad++ (the best text editor by far). There is no formatting, so you are free to focus on how to explain the problem using text ;) Once you have the rough draft you can make the first revision. Personally, at that point I would leave it, and get on with something else. Then re-read it. LOL That's when you realise it doesn't make sense, and you re-write it. The next day, re-read it again, confirming that enough detail has been provided. Finally, copy & paste the finished text, and click 'Reply'. Read it again immediately it has been pasted to KZbin. If there are formatting errors, you can edit the post before anyone sees it. :)

[@EngineTuning]

Cleaning the filter on liquid fuel burning heaters - of type: stove, paraffin heater, kerosene heater, chauffage à pétrole, poêle à pétrole électronique, BPE 367, Squall inverter. I would guess, any heater that uses a removable fuel reservoir.

[@zeproo]

Hello, I've put out the filter and sucked up the oil with toilet paper. Even under the filter it was dirty. SO I put back the filter and reservoir and now the display always mention oil, can't get it on. Any idea why sir ?

[@EngineTuning]

If there was dirt on the wrong side of the filter, it is possible that there is a blockage. The old oil might have gone sticky. Or the oil level sensor may be stuck. In these situations; make sure that you are using the most highly refined heating oil grade. This will be the 'thinnest'. kzbin.info/www/bejne/moPQo3iFd9h4etk Therefore it will have the best chance of working, particularly when very cold (as the oil thickens). You can first make sure that the new oil is warm - say 20 - 25C. This will act as a solvent and help it to breakdown any old oil that has gone sticky. If these measures fail, then the heater will need stripping, with a view to cleaning everything from the reservoir to the combustion chamber. ... and while you are there; clean up the flame rod. Good luck!

[@zeproo]

Thank you, I will leave the item in the house so it is warm. I will try tomorrow. I subscribe and to see more vids from you, very inspiring.

[@zeproo]

Hello, I will leave the item in the house and try it tomorrow morning. I subscribe and hope to see more video's about everything. Very inspiring. Young people look up video's like yours because they don't know how to do things anymore. All skills are lost. Seriously even me. They only know their desk, keyboard and playstation. We need your generation to learn us again.

[@EngineTuning]

Ah yes... it's good that you have understood the purpose. It makes it all worthwhile :)

[@dowelloscka.boulala3610]

Bonjour monsieur J’ai un poêle à pétrole électronique sreh35x Il affiche 18:18 Et s’éteint une minute après le démarrage

[@EngineTuning]

I have not seen an error code 18:18 Is this the first start, since the last winter? Did it work, the last time that you used the heater? If so, did you clean the fuel from the bottom tank (using the syphon), and use fresh fuel in the reservoir? If not, it could be the fuel that needs changing. If this doesn't cure the problem ... See my other videos on how to clean and service the heater. This solves most problems.

[@dowelloscka.boulala3610]

@@EngineTuning Yes indeed i clean and brossing engine And every things I thé firt Time since the liste winter Ta the bigining after but it on It berning during 5 min after it stop And show message 18:18

[@EngineTuning]

@@dowelloscka.boulala3610 Hello Dowel :) Your problem is very normal. - Last winter, the heater worked. - You stopped using the heater. - 6 or 7 months pass. - you start the heater ... but it has a problem. What happened? (Typically) You left the fuel in the bottom and top reservoirs. Condensation occurs, and water settles in the bottom reservoir. ... the fuel oil evaporates, and becomes thick, and sticky. Perhaps the fuel oil that you used (last winter) was not high quality ... this is not unusual ;) ... You have one piece of knowledge (100%) :- The heater was working, when you last used it :) The electronics did not fail (unlikely). Therefore, the problem arises from the fuel, or a dirty flame rod.. If you have dismantled the heater, and cleaned the flame rod (have you done this)? Then it must be contaminated reservoir and or fuel. Buy acetone, and mix 2% with the fuel. When the heater is working, you can drop the mix to 0.5% acetone. Bonne chance :)

[@anthonyprulo8799]

Merci

[@EngineTuning]

:)

[@1walkgirl]

I dd not know that! :-)

[@EngineTuning]

Aha... you do now :D Thanks for taking the time to comment :)

[@1walkgirl]

:-)

[@lekingbillard1]

domage la video et pas en francaise g meme probleme co2 tout demonter nettoyer remonter et encor co2 son pontage de fil et bien mes demage c pas en francais

[@EngineTuning]

Er ... Mike .... J'ai fait de mon mieux avec les sous-titres français. J'ai passé des heures. S'ils sont mauvais ... alors dites-le. S'ils sont mauvais ... alors désolé ... J'ai échoué. Mais ne dites pas que je n'ai pas essayé. Ce n'est pas juste du tout ;) Plus ... FFS combien de personnes passent les heures pour traduire en français? ... laissez-moi vous dire ... ce n'est pas facile. ET BTW Je sais que c'est un gros problème en France. C'est pourquoi je l'ai traduit. Veuillez reconsidérer votre opinion ;)

[@joseraposobernal152]

el no gustarme es por que no lo entiendo, solo ablo el castellano, no se idiomas

[@EngineTuning]

Did you try the sub-titles? I created sub-titles ... they should be reasonable enough in Spanish. Why not have a look?

[@albertooleari6227]

qualcuno sa cosa vuol dire la sigla u 10 se non si acce

[@EngineTuning]

I have never seen a u10 error code :(

[@myriamlarmat2973]

Merci beaucoup pour l'information, belle journée 👍