Part 2: Cracked Cylinder Head - The Reckoning

In this episode of Keith's Garage I further disassemble the manifolds to gain full access to the valves. I do some valve maintenance while the engine remains in the car. I replace the cylinder head with a higher compression option. I clean my first carb with my Ultrasonic cleaner.

[@vicniebrzydowski7793]

The egg carton for holding parts and keeping separate is stellar!

[@tombob671]

Keith I love these old Mopar flathead sixes. I am now 75 but when My dad, employed in the oil business, was transferred to Calgary I came to respect them. I was 16 in 1963 and in high school and I had a buddy with a 49 Plymouth 4 door. the Darn thing started even below zero Fahrenheit. No it was not fast but it was solidly reliable. 14 years old, 6 volts it ran. great memories.

[@frankdavidson9675]

i have a 1953 dodge flat head six i bought in 2011 i rebuilt it so easy to work on a lot people try to set timing on #1 wrong it set on #6 very simple the crank case pully has tdc stamped in it with several deg marks i painted my marks white useing a tooth pick in the tiny lines rotate eng till it lins up on 4 deg before tdc go to dist remove cap rotor will be pointing close to 1 oclock poslooking down at it i so put cap back on install plugs crank eng with eng running use timing light conn to # 6 plug wire look at pully where is it flashing if not on 4th mark before tdc loosen bolt holding dist slowly rotate dist till it flashes on #4 tighten you are thru

[@keithsgarage5831]

@@frankdavidson9675 The way the distributor drive shaft is connected to the oil pump, the engine timing can easily be set to #1 or #6. My understanding is when built new ,the timing was set to #1 at TDC. At the exact same point #6 is at TDC but not on compression stroke. Countless people over the decades have been installing their distributors 180 degrees out, the rotor pointed to 1 o'clock. It matters little. Many Mopar distributors have a small thin line cut into the distributor metal housing indicating where #1 is, in reference to the rotor position. You can see this line, when the distributor cap is off. However...#1 TDC is not always at 1 or 7 o'clock with the rotor. Depending on vacuum line hook up, diaphragm location, adjustment bolt location, etc. Over the decades the distributors were turned and indexed to various clock positions. So there is no stead-fast formal rule.

[@berniefranks4876]

Cool new intro. I really enjoy your videos. I feel like I could watch hours of working on these engines.

[@oldcarnocar]

six flathead briggs and stratton engines,in a row!

[@davidbaures1256]

Keith, another great video! I have the exact same project lined up for my 1935 Plymouth. Thank you for all your work and insight. I'm excited to see the third installment.

[@stan1869]

Keith You fast forward through the the carb rebuild! Yes loyal subscriber here, and yes I wanted to see the whole process! LOL Anyway I’ll wait here with the others til u get the rest of the parts to continue. Thanks for posting

[@dwest4297]

T H I S I S M Y F A V O R I T E C H A N N E L O N Y O U T U B E ! Thanks Keith.

[@MarkSherman-h6u]

Hello Keith, newbie here again. I have been working on the timing and carb on my 53 Windsor. I set the idle down to 450 in gear and it shifts much better. It will never down shift on it's own due to the 12v conversion. I'm not a purest, so at some point I will modernize it. Thanks for all your video's and advice so far. Sherm

[@keithsgarage5831]

You cannot get a 12V shift solenoid for these transmissions. If want want to convert to 12V expect many headaches to come.

[@MarkSherman-h6u]

Newbie again, do you remember what kind of gas milage you got in your Windsor

[@keithsgarage5831]

@@MarkSherman-h6u I never actually calculated my fuel economy. I always figured my old cars are for my pure pleasure. I thought that calculating fuel economy would maybe spoil some of the fun. I didn’t want to know. I suspect 12-14 mpg might be a reasonable guess.

[@leewalker3514]

Keep it coming man love it

[@mentalFPV]

A telescopic magnetic pick up tool. (magnet on a stick) works wonders for getting the keepers out without mishaps.

[@midnightraiin4035]

Pretty cool.. your channels growing. i remember when you had 4-500 subscribers. thats great!

[@keithsgarage5831]

Thanks! 😃

[@MattsGarageMiscDIY]

Maybe covered in another video, but what do you think about the ultra sonic cleaner?

[@keithsgarage5831]

Love mine. I bought one last summer. 2 carbs later…Awesome results.

[@bazmarty6084]

Great video.Question regarding compression tester,,What size thread is needed to screw into cylinder head ? Metric or imperial ?

[@sideyardmechanic]

Hi Keith. I just became an owner if a 1951 Dodge Wayfarer with stock 230 flat 6 and gyromatic trans. The runs and drives like new but is in need of a full service (all fluid change) I was wondering what fluids you run or what you recommend. Thanks

[@mathewanderson2400]

2 silly questions from a newbie you’re helping out (me). #1: does the rebuild of the carb affect your fluid drive or is that regulated by an electronic controller? #2: if I get the head off to laps, is it “just a few nuts” to get the pistons off and replace rings while I’m at it? If it literally isn’t a huge issue and I could stand to reseal the oil pan, I would love to tackle it, but I don’t want to underestimate it. Thoughts?

[@keithsgarage5831]

I haven't owned a basic fluid drive model. My '53 Chyrsler had a semi-auto transmission. There were two electric devices on the carb. An anti-stall dashpot, and a switch that would be activated when you floor'd the foot throttle. This switch was part of the system to force a downshift of the transmission.

[@keithsgarage5831]

The pistons and rods have to come out through the top to re-ring the engine. The oil pan comes off. Rod caps removed.Then the piston/rod comes out the top. If there is a ridge at the top of the cylinder (most often there is) the ridge needs to be reamed off before new rings are installed. The cylinder should be honed as well.

[@mogdefender8520]

Hello Keith, jusg another quick question for you; #6 cilinder has the hole drilled for a pin that can be set ontop of the piston. I would amagine for timing purposes. Mine is gone. Do you by any chance have the dimensions of this pin available please? Marty.

[@keithsgarage5831]

Its a brass plug, pipe thread. You should be able to easily get one locally. They are readily available and used in countless applications.

[@440gtxblewbyyoumopar9]

I'm about to change my exhaust gaskets on my 35 Dodge they leak bad. When you install your gasket do use anything to seal it. I'm thinking about using Indian head that is nice and sticky.

[@keithsgarage5831]

I've not used anything on the intake or exhaust gaskets before. I see that Indian Head is only good to 350F. I suspect exhaust manifold temps get higher than that.

[@frankdavidson9675]

there is a spray gasket sealer when you spray it has fine grains of copperin it works good ck auto stores i use auto zone a lot i think they have it

[@440gtxblewbyyoumopar9]

@@keithsgarage5831 Thank you

[@440gtxblewbyyoumopar9]

@@frankdavidson9675 Thank you

[@BobbysAwake]

Keith, the carb rebuild kit, where did u get it? Thanks!

[@keithsgarage5831]

carburetor.ca/

[@BobbysAwake]

Thanks

[@ronaldmatusevitz8967]

Hey Keith I have a 38 coupe and wonder if you could post a picture of the bottom hand brake cable bracket.

[@keithsgarage5831]

I don’t believe we can post any photos here in You Tube chat.

[@ronaldmatusevitz8967]

If you could text me a picture I would greatly appreciate it. 602-339-7595

[@keithsgarage5831]

@@ronaldmatusevitz8967 Can do. The cable bracket at the transmission mount?

[@ronaldmatusevitz8967]

@@keithsgarage5831 Yes that's what I am looking for. Thanks

[@mogdefender8520]

Hello Keith, thank you for your video's. I much enjoy them. I have recently removthe head from my 1947 Fargo pick up with a T116 engine and noticed that the cylinder head bolts are threaded right into th water jacket and a coupl are threaded rightinto the intake runner in the block.Just wondering about sealing issues? Would a copper washer under the headbolt be in place for sealing purposes? Marty.

[@keithsgarage5831]

Use Permatex high performance thread sealant on the headbolt threads.