Part 2 - Morris Marina Front wheel bearing

[@damienoneill4355]

Thanks for another year of great content Alex. I love the way your mind works when you are tinkering...reminds me of myself😊Happy new year, and put this towards a new torch 👍

[@Alexsassets]

😍😍😍 omg thank you so much 🥰🥰 i am going to look for one now 😆 . That's made me so happy 😊

[@Vince_uk]

Poetry in motion in not ideal conditions. Fabulous Alex.

[@thtmotoring]

Great job Alex! Loving all the Marina action 👍

[@chrishatton953]

Hi Alex, well done for doing that job in trying conditions and just before a long journey. As your daily driver I guess you have to get these jobs done. 👍

[@RobReynolds]

Doing that job in the corner of a cold dark garage. Top work!

[@jaybee1921]

Hi Alex, very well done in trying conditions, your determination won through. That piece of "flat bottomed rail" is exactly that and is useful to use as an anvil, or an outdoor door stop like mine is. Definitely not a piece of "girder"...😁 Pleased the job and test drive went well...👍👏 Happy New Year to you both. Jon B. 🤓

[@delukxy]

Heating not needed, just tap them out with a drift or disposable screwdriver. Cut a thin slot through the old outer race and you'll never have them stick in place when using them to tap in the new one. A good learning curve Alex. Get some proper lighting in the garage that covers the ends of the garage. LED tubes right across the ceiling every 3 feet. You'll wonder how you managed. Paint the walls white and you'll have even more light.

[@SmashingPistons]

34:29 It takes a special sort of mad to work by torchlight and in the rainy night. Well played. 👍

[@terryatkinson899]

Rubber gloves when heating metal up 😭 could end in tears. Guess you were lucky this time.

[@philipparker1319]

Was waiting for you to start humming the tune “If I Had A Hammer” whilst doing this job! 😂😂

[@tonypacke6954]

You were spot on with the way you set the bearing preload. On the P6 you need .003" to .005 thou clearance which when you put the wheel back on you can feel a slight wobble. The reason being when the hub heats up it will expand and close up that clearance. This will cause spalling and reduce the life of the bearings eventually if you don't have that clearance. Happy New Year to you both.

[@nigelcharlton-wright1747]

Happy 2025. I agree with you about using new old stock. Had fun and games twice with so called "Lucas" manufactured points and condensers , that were either made in Italy or maybe China. Once on a Bond Equipé 2ltr Mk1, this was dealt with the aid of an AA man and a kindly gent in Biggleswade who owned 2 Triumph 2000's, who gave me a new condenser. The second when my wife and I went up north in my Humber, had problems with the points on the way up, by Bishop Auckland. Changed the condenser the following morning and we were going to Sunderland, when the car lost power. Changed the condenser in a car park with the original one, no more problems. Long story short, buy OMP items, not reproduced cheap Ebay tat!

[@SmashingPistons]

22:36 The suspense! You need a Kevin who has a press tool. 😊

[@dustymiller7758]

Well done Alex, well done on your first time replacing a taper bearing.

[@nightstorm9128]

By heating the race and the brake hub at the same time,Your actually making it harder to get the race out,,The idea of welding a bead around the race is because the heat from the weld is so intense and quick,That the heat from the weld bead only stays very hot for about 20 seconds,As the heat dissipates the bead contracts and pulls the race away from the hub,,And also because the welding process is quick the race takes almost all of the heat,So the hub berly heats up,,

[@davidking9707]

As a Marina fan, I enjoyed that video.

[@Alexsassets]

🥰🥰

[@davidking9707]

@@Alexsassets As a great friend, here is a great big burp to start off 2025 Brrrrrraaaarrrrrrpppppp!!!!!

[@paulbarnaby9850]

Envious, my 1971 lime flower green 1.3 super ( it had the other front grill to yours ) had drum brakes all round.... needed plenty of braking distance

[@rupert7874]

Good job ,if you cut the old race so it's able to flex a bit you can use that to drive the new one home without getting the old one stuck too

[@Alexsassets]

Good idea! Thank you

[@doktoruzo]

Nice one Alex, all the best for the new year. Remember to grease your cracks thoroughly !🤣

[@Alexsassets]

Cracks and nipples

[@doktoruzo]

@@Alexsassets 😂ooh Matron

[@johnmoruzzi7236]

I’ve done that type of bearing on a trailer and they seem to need regular retightening and even repacking with grease, I think things just settle down but heavily used trailer bearings work harder than RWD Marina front hubs….

[@RichardPlaice]

Happy New year's 😊

[@simon.easton]

We both own a piece of railway track. Very useful. Can use it like an anvil.

[@garywalker3818]

good blog as all ways have a good 2025 Alex's Gary from Crewe

[@frothe42]

Glad you can replace the bearings; on our last vehicle here in the US (A Saturn Vue) we had to replace the whole wheel hub. And I know they had been replaced at least three times in ten years.

[@Alexsassets]

😱

[@michaelgoode9555]

Timken is pronounced Tim Ken as in two men's names. Once a proud and successful British bearing company put out of business by cheap overseas manufacturers. I used to regularly pass by their works in Northampton.

[@tonypacke6954]

Still manufactured in the States so the Chinese haven't ruined the brand just yet.

[@sjg4967]

In 1898, Henry Timken obtained a patent for an improved tapered roller bearing, and in 1899 incorporated as The Timken Roller Bearing Axle Company in St. Louis. Missouri, USA.

[@simon.easton]

I just use the old bearing races and a piece of wood to knock the new ones in. Oh, you seem to be doing that now. Perhaps i should just wait and comment at the end!

[@Alexsassets]

😆

[@simon.easton]

When I did bearings on my car the hub had notches in it where you could fit a small chisel and hit the bearing races from the inside out like you are doing, but didn't try heating it up to see if that made it easier

[@simon.easton]

Ah, yes, you just mentioned those... Must be very similar.

[@billhammond9470]

Hi Alex, if you had warmed up the hub instead of the bearing race, they would just fallen out with minimum effort as you would have expanded the hub away from the race, as it was you heated the race and in turn that expanded into the hub making the job a bit harder, also you should put both races in first before you put the bearing and grease seal, this so any debts that may fall as your knocking the second race in does not fall into the newly greased bearing and contaninat it, but you got there in the end 😊

[@johnmoruzzi7236]

Yes I couldn’t follow the logic…you’ll need to get a hell of a lot of heat into that big cast hub to get it to expand ! Maybe it frees the two surfaces from each other a bit…..

[@billhammond9470]

@johnmoruzzi7236 you only need to raise the temperature 20 -30 degrees to expand the hub enough to let the race go

[@grantbaker3336]

In a case like this heating it up will make no difference at all because the bearing race is relatively thin and will absorb as much heat as is being put into the hub, I fully agree with you about putting both races in first.