Sailboat Rigging-How to Rig a Sailboat-DIY HeadStay Replacement on Roller Furler-Patrick Childress21

[@Telvisionary]

I am sad that you are no longer with us but grateful that you took the time to share so much of your knowledge and experience in these videos.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Don Loughman there is more...don’t unsubscribe ;)

[@JasonSmart]

RIP Patrick. Having just recently bought a boat, I found these videos invaluable and found you to be a fun person to watch. I was really sad to hear on your other channel Sailing Brick House, that you'd passed away due to COVID-19. Very sad, but you're still helping people with these videos. Your memory lives on!

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks Jason. Yes...Patrick was a great teacher to all, and to me too. I hope you will subscribe and keep watching. There is more coming, but from me instead. -Rebecca, his first mate.

[@travistucker7317]

The wisdom in these videos is unparalleled. Fair winds, sailor, fair winds.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks Travis

[@tommyc9237]

These can be tough to watch knowing Patrick is gone, but his little tips like rotating an adjustable wrench the correct way are what makes these videos so helpful. I watch videos all the time with actual professionals who don't know how to use an adjustable wrench.

[@RVLifeNOW]

So very true…

[@roderickmchardy3650]

more from the legend that is Patrick Childress

[@AlanCheek]

THANKS for your vids! A lifetime ago, I wound up on the waterfront hungry, nearly broke & looking for work. I found grunt work enough to keep me there, & a bit later that my classic car knowledge made me a beginner marine mechanic. I got the job by proving I could strip & reassemble a bicycle of all things - my first bit of a treasure trove of wisdom was "It's all bicycle mechanics!" You're a great, wise Man Tom List! Tom had a strict rule: NEVER place any fastener without slathering it in "RectorSeal No.5" - a plumber's sealant (for those who don't know). I pulled bolts Tom had placed 20+ years before, whose heads were nearly rusted away, but as long as we could apply any torque to it, they were never seized! I've followed his wisdom for ~30 years of doing my own auto work - though sometimes I may use a different product for heat resistance such as exhaust manifolds etc., no threaded fastener ever goes on without RD or an analogue! Your titanium bolts in aluminum would come free like pulling a knife from soft butter! Watching you on that mast, with no lanyards on tools or on YOU(!) made parts of me that dropped 50-some years ago try to crawl back up inside! I spent years climbing grain elevators & got used to heights but being hurt enough to warrant amputation made me decide to tattoo "DNR" on my chest! Of course it's your boat, mast, bosun' s chair AND @$$! - but I would always have a HTH option!

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks for your comment.

[@mikes2294]

Patrick, GREATEST DIY maintenance videos on the net with out a doubt ! I ran across your channel this evening about 6:30pm by accident and have been watching all your videos all night. It's about 4:30am now and the sun is starting to crest the horizon. I look forward to following you, and your camera shy better half, around the world with all your adventures. Please keep up the great videos and stay safe.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thank you Mike. The videos are fun to make and I think Rebecca is slowly warming up to the idea of getting involved....

[@muskietime]

Another great video. I subscribed. Amazing that a French company, Pro Furl, can shut customer service off for a month! Watching you at the top of the mast reminds me how much I always hated going up. My rule was if it looked dangerous but needed to be done, I would not send anyone up but me. Regarding backstay loading: We used to play with backstay pressure all the time when racing. Soft backstay, 1,500 psi on the hydraulics when sailing downwind and 6,000+psi sailing upswing. It’s all about mainsail shape. We would load the mast up so much sailing upwind that the door to the Head would be stuck closed. I did no see it but the America’s Cup boat that lost its mast probably had Runners. If the windward runners are not released and new windward runners loaded at the right time during a tack or jibe, you can lose the rig. So wonderful to see folks “living”. God Bless and Fair Winds to you two.

[@RVLifeNOW]

comments. I have so appreciated everyones support during the last few difficult years... Thanks for watching...Hope you still are... abd thanks for your comments

[@nickviner1225]

About turning the wrench the correct way was taught to me in 1984 . You are the first person I have ever heard of showing people the right way to do it . Like you I have always done it your way since being taught. Well done for putting out there

[@RVLifeNOW]

I was very fortunate to work with an old, experienced, miner, at the Henderson Molybdenum Mine, near Empire, Colorado.

[@patch8462]

Patrick, what took you so long to put a channel together? Jeepers man! Thank whom ever talked you into it for us;)

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks for the nice compliment.

[@lagrotty2360]

Miss you Pat. You'll never stop being a teacher and mentor. Rest in peace my beautiful brother xo and love and thanks to you Rebecca you are truly an awesome human being and Pat would be so proud of you ☺️

[@RVLifeNOW]

Ah thanks for your comments…yes…always the teacher and mentor…to me too!

[@bnln1939]

Wow Rebecca You had a remarkable partner in the adventure of life. May you be as blessed this time. Bruce

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks Bruce. I seem to have great luck. Though luck is what you make it, so...

[@jiefflerenard1228]

After WWII liberation of Europe tens of thousand of damaged war machinery where left behind and it took no time for the locals to make good use of the excellent American engines, as there was no imperial tools around the farmers became experts at the chisel and hammer method ,every nut or bolt had a pair of notch on its side, one for torque in one for torque out and to this day I still find it one of the most powerful way to loosen stuck bolts (the impact I guess) . I was glad to see you use a gentle version of it. BTW a way to help ease out a stuck bolt specially in corroded soft metal is to hit it with a hammer lengthwise (like a nail sot of) as to break up the corrosion in the thread. Hard enough but not to hard as to damage the thread. Very efficient on outboard engines even more with heat. I am sure Patrick knows all this but it might help somebody.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks for adding to the knowledge :)

[@NeverEnoughPyro40]

I have been a Auto mechanic for over 20 years but I have been boating in Saltwater for over 30! As I was watching this vid as in most boating vids sailor's are stuck with that 1 screws, bolt, or nut freezing up! So I came down here to suggest having a 3/8 manual impact driver! It puts constant down pressure reducing the chance of stripping the screw heads while turning and shocking the threads! So it is doing 3 jobs at once! Also It is best to use a dead blow hammer with this tool! If you are not familiar with a dead blow hammer it's basically a hammer filled with metal like beads that stops bounce back and givs a solid hit! Also a dead blow rubber mallet would be another tool that would be very useful! Also I have found most penetrating oils are crap! But over the years I have found 1 that works really well! It is called ZeP 45 It is a penetrating lubricant with PTFE It works fast and lubricates the threads very well! Happy sailing and be safe!

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks for all your very good information.

[@silverark2693]

Thanks for your maintenance and repair videos. I feel confident after watching them. :D

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks, Eldon, I am happy the videos are a help.

[@ElviajedeBohemia]

Miss you Chris! Sail on!

[@RVLifeNOW]

Yes…thanks

[@thomasmackie922]

Just love watching you two work together.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thomas Mackie yeah...me too -rebecca

[@ericryanmodelling9859]

That 1 turn mentioned...a rigger looking out for you? Think about it...stress happens. Love your vids. Very informative!

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks, Eric.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Funny, just started watching this video, and it’s an old one of ours ;) -Rebecca

[@corujariousa]

I admire your knowledge and energy to take on the projects. I completely relate to your comments about blind trust on "professionals". I've had to intervene many times myself on different projects. Some folks may have the know-how but may not have a commitment to quality. Just want to make money and move on quickly to the next job. Stay safe and strong.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Corujariousa, Thanks for the comment and for watching.

[@ladygardener100]

I had the mast taken out by a guy at the marina, a job they do every day, except they managed to bend the B&G windvane, thanks guys, they also arranged for some local "electrics" specialist to visit my boat [in spite of explicit instructions], these two guys tried to start the boat as if it was wired correctly, which it was not, and was the reason I needed re-wiring: result ............. flattened battery, and unable to start the engine anyway. For some reason, the marina owner [a lifetime professional sailor seemed to think they were in charge of managing my boat, they handed the keys out to anyone!

[@donaldl.blandjr.6442]

Good advice capt Childress, real pretty gal too ! Kudos !

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks, Donald. Rebecca, finally, is going to do an appearance and show all her electronics at her Nav. station in the next vid.

[@RVLifeNOW]

There was a comment posted here by a viewer but somehow the post disappeared. The poster was concerned that I used a line brought over the top of the mast to lower the furler assembly, while I sat in the boson’s chair, rather than me descending back down to the deck and using a halyard secured around a winch at the base of the mast. I won’t try to rewrite the whole dialog but will just post the essence. Either way works on my 40’ sailboat. A much larger boat with a heavier furler, an owner might want to use a halyard to ease down the furler. For raising the furler and head stay back and precisely positioning it so the clevis pin could be set in the stay terminal, my helper used the jib halyard to raise the furler/head stay. So, to repeat what was said in the video, the spinnaker halyard and running pole topping lift were set up as temporary head stays and the jib halyard was used to raise the furler back in place. The commenter wondered why I did not tie an independent line around the top of the mast, down to a turning block at the bow and back to a primary winch as a temporary stay. With the spinnaker halyard and pole topping lift doing the job, there was no need for any additional support. But I do want to stress his concern that I chose not to use a halyard to lower the rig to the dock. This procedure was not an experiment. I have worked with this method in the past. Do the job in which ever way you feel most comfortable.

[@patch8462]

As a younger man I was a trained tower rigger. The majority of our drops were performed via friction raps over smooth surfaces, but never without gloves. As the man up you are safer above the disconnect and usually in complete control of the drop. Lifting is a different kettle tho.

[@SailPalarran]

Hello Patrick. I had a very weird connection to this video last night and wanted to share it. I own a 2001 Fountaine Pajot with a profurl reefing drum. It's in a yard in Freeport Bahamas getting some repair work done and we were discussing a problem with the extrusion tubes. My lowest one is loose and it separates about 1/2 inch sometimes. The top set screws are tight and the inter tube is fixed there. It's the lower section set screws that are not somehow holding the coupling in place. Well, the yard, nor the island has a rigging professional to look at this so they were going to fly one in from Fort Lauderdale. I told the guys I didn't think I could afford that right now and would think about it. So I got back to my hotel room, drank a beer, and watched a few KZbin videos. I regularly watch sailing videos so - and this is the weird connection - your video of shooting off the flairs popped up on my screen. I half watched it - it was good but didn't really apply to what I do and kind of zoned it out. That video was followed by this one though and what a crazy coincidence. You go into detail of the set screws and how you put in an extra one to make sure they stay tight. It was exactly what I needed to know and literally 3 hours after needing - without searching!! Thank you for taking the time and effort to make these videos. I do have a few questions and wondered if you wouldn't mind communicating with me via e-mail. You can contact me via the name of my channel + @gmail.com

[@RVLifeNOW]

That is great you were able to get some use out of the video and hopefully save you some money. I sent you a PM via gmail.

[@davidc6510]

Great tips. I am always wary about contractors that talk a big game and then let you down on the execution. Great job keeping a close eye on them and making sure they got the details right to satisfy you laser beam like attention to detail. Fair Winds Brick House!

[@RVLifeNOW]

There are too many costly, horror stories from cruisers, about boat yard contractors to blindly trust any of them. A cruiser really needs to have a good grasp of a project before turning it over to contractors, then actively manage the project.

[@Errol.C-nz]

@@RVLifeNOW They are machine "screws", bolts have external heads for sockets...hss IS Cobolt Steel...diy type drills are typically high carbon steel or low percent cobolt steel that doesnt meet industry stds to be called "Cobolt Steel". Titanium has a very high coefficient of friction & should always be used with high grade silicon(or lanocote) lube to help avoid gauling & seizing...love your tech talks

[@Errol.C-nz]

@@RVLifeNOW Q?...the headstay chainplates being stainless & its propensity for fatigue work hardening...have you ever come across aluminium bronze chainplates...should be more compatible with the titanium screws you use too...have no experience on these but like your thinking. Cheers from NZ

[@dulls8475]

Have you thought of using duralac for those screws that go through the different metals in the yellow pro furl housing? Read up on the properties of it. It does not act as a loc tight though. All my mast rivets go into duralac and 20 years later the duralac looks as though i did it yesterday. Great for where more than one metal is in contact with a another. We had the same pro furl system and we like its simplicity and accessibility.

[@WilliamWaters5624]

interested in hearing more about the Molybdenum mining! Thanks for the great vid, I need to service the system on my sailboat soon and have never done it before.

[@RVLifeNOW]

william waters ah...glad to know it will help you with your project. Do let us know how it goes.

[@harryweyer2174]

Unfortunately those plates bear the witness of somebody’s miss adventure already,great vid and tutorial young Sir.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Yes, not enough tension on the head stay.

[@sollasollew3208]

Thanks mate, your the man, appreciate your vids, very informative.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thank you Aero. Always appreciate the positive comments.

[@sollasollew3208]

@@RVLifeNOW no problem mate, your a great bloke and your proactive commentary on sharing information is a blessing to the boating community. Fair winds and peace brother.

[@accessaryman]

awesome tips and tricks keep them coming, :)

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks, Owen. We will keep at it. We may not be able to keep to an every other week schedule since we are hauled out of the water, but every 3 weeks might be more manageable.

[@vigorousseb]

You sir are a legend!

[@RVLifeNOW]

Yes he was!!!

[@mraymus]

Good job, Patrick. Thanks for posting.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks for watching, Matt. Maybe you would preview the next one for me?

[@mraymus]

Sure no problem. I thought this one was great though. I enjoyed the music throughout in the background. I mean you kinda got screwed by your inability to show what you did in real time, but you made up for in the technical tutorials afterward. I thought it had tons of excellent information in it.

[@rebeccachildressmichaelhay6420]

Hello..it’s Rebecca...brilliant Patrick’s wife... Don’t forget to also subscribe to our blog at www.WhereIsBrickHouse.com. A lot of Patrick’s articles (as well as mine) from the last decade + are on there, as well as some of the fun we have, and products we use. I hope you will follow us here AND on the blog!

[@dougmarder]

Have you checked with ProFurl to see what they recommend for initial backstay tension when installing a new SS headstay with furler? Perhaps this is why the rigger over-tensioned your backstay, and why you had the rubbing on the foil from the previous, under-tensioned backstay? Looking forward to your follow-up on this when you reach Madagascar!

[@RVLifeNOW]

Hi Doug, According to the rigger, France is on a major holiday right now and Profurl, being French, is closed for a month, so I have not heard back from them. In the owners manual for Amel sailboats, like the Maramu, there is a specific back stay tension. It is hard to find the same specifics for other brands of boats. Hopefully, Profurl will eventually come up with some numbers. It is amazing to me how many people, even one yacht designer I contacted, just use the “twang” method for tuning, without any over tensioning considerations. For the shrouds, one just makes sure the leeward side is not loose while actively sailing but the back stay, I believe, needs a specific do not exceed number. Remember that America’s Cup sailboat that folded in half?! I will certainly post any new information, here. Thanks for your comment.

[@leaveonlywake]

Loved the video, and like others wondered why - what with all the work you had done before the rigger got there - you were bothering to hire him. :) Some thoughts on rig tension and numbers thereof: Noted that to have a no-sag forestay, your guy had the wire at over 25%, even pushing 30% of breaking strength according to the Loos gauge. Zoiks! I agree with you, that needs backing off. Under the strains of sailing, the wire will still stretch and 'settle in' over time just fine at 10 or 15%, especially at sea where shock loading will temporarily load up much higher from time to time. Shock loading is why the 'at rest' figure for wire tension is seemingly so conservative. Think of the extra 80-90% of breaking strength as a safety reserve, insurance for an ocean cruiser who, unlike inshore or coastwise racers/sailors, is a long way away from a dock or a tow if the rig fails. Imagine a wire at near 1/3 breaking strength *while at rest*, taken out into the ocean while attached to a multi-ton boat which suddenly drops off a wave face... That not uncommon scenario could easily create a shock load which uses up the other 2/3 of the wire's reserve strength, and then you'd have real trouble. This is why I like to "keep a little back", because it always seems that the ocean will find a way to take every bit you have otherwise. ;) WRT the 'twang' method, or "acoustic tensioning" ;) from what I understand/have experienced, when you tension up just past 'thunk' to twang', you've achieved ~10-15% of breaking strength for the wire - which is about where you want to be for the above reasons. So while twang-tuning may not be scientific, it is still fairly accurate, at least enough and on the safe side of the scale to be a "quick and ready" solution. Obviously much better than doing it by eyeball, like the rigger did. If I could offer an idea? While still at dock, I'd back the stay off to obvious under-tension, then 'thunk' and tighten it back up until you think it might be right, just into the 'twang' range, and then get out the Loos in order to find out how accurate your ears are. :) That will be educational, and knowing the particular note you need to hear for your wire will also allow you to have the ability to get a rough idea of backstay tension when under sail/at sea, without having to dig the Loos out of storage. Fair winds, and thanks for the video - I'm a new subscriber! :) Kurt sailFar.net

[@RVLifeNOW]

Kurt, thanks much for your great information, which obviously comes from a history of experience. If you were in Reunion, I would have hired you to help put things back quickly and accurately!

[@northfolk6991]

Greatly enjoyed this heads up for an old but novice sailor ;)

[@RVLifeNOW]

It’s an old one of his..but a goodie :)

[@martinlanders]

Greet work on the rigging ,,

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks. Rigging is no problem anymore for Patrick...he re-rigged the entire boat in Majuro...it’s good to become intimately familiar with the rigging on your sailboat! -Rebecca

[@Helyzz82]

haha, I love how it was a 'it', 'what?', 'bolt', 'screw', 'nut', 'these'. Language is an amazing thing, but creativity makes it so much more.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Yep

[@jwrappuhn71]

Good info, good job sir.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thank you for watching.

[@kayakexcursions5570]

You were correct calling them screws.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks.

[@deroux]

Very informative!

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks, Andie.

[@johnryan2193]

Rest in peace Patrick , it's good to know we can still see you on KZbin.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Yes it’s nice having a video manual on how to keep this boat going!!

[@ruaraidhmcdonald-walker9524]

Brilliant and informative as usual! Really useful tips!

[@RVLifeNOW]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@rcrogers6]

Kroil is the best penetrant to help get fasteners out. Since it is probably hard for you to get (direct online purchase from then) you can mix acetone and ATF half and half to make an effective penetrant.Should reduce heating and pounding.

[@RVLifeNOW]

That mix I will try. There are a lot of common things in the U.S. that can't be found in these other countries. Corrosion-X is a good example. Thanks for the comment.

[@okcpicker]

Patrick, you ought to sell t-shirts that read, "Butyl ... Anything Else is Futile"

[@umvhu]

Nutlock is your friend, make it a habit to ALWAYS put nutlock on threads exposed to the environment. It has 2 advantages, 1 the loosening force will always be proportional to the tightening force, and 2, it excludes oxygen, electrolytic corrosion cannot happen without oxygen. Big thumbs up!

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks for the tip. There are experienced cruisers who don't care much for LanoCote and prefer Tefgel but I will give Nutlock a try.

[@000gjb]

Marine environments have always been challenging to me as a yacht owner. I have had goose neck rivets fall apart and tillers collapse just as I came into shore. Somebody must be watching over me. I use a product called Loctite Anti Seize Nickel Grease on anything mechanical that I have to get apart without a shackle key. I don't know how it would perform offshore but it is recommended for use with Stainless Steel and high temperature applications.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks for the tip.

[@MycSailor]

How about some pj blaster penetrating oil. How about heat? There are those options before dremels and easy outs.

[@RVLifeNOW]

You can heat only a little bit, like to loosen Locktite as there are plastic parts that are also in the join and will melt. Penetrating oils never helped or would take forever to soak in and there is no time to be waiting around for that to work. An impact driver would be a good option as another commenter pointed out. Thanks for your comment.

[@peregrinegrace8570]

Thanks for the great info I always make sure I'm present to watch engineers of any kind. They cost enough anyway, and I might learn a thing or two. Your videos are great for us selfstearers But not sure about that cheesy background music ..

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks for your positive comment. Several people don't like that back ground music. I appreciate the feedback. This is an earlier video and part of the steeper track of the learning curve. Hopefully the music, which there is less of, in the newer videos is more acceptable. If it isn't, let me know.

[@frankschannel2642]

Awesome. Well done.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks for watching. This is one of our older sailing videos ;)

[@frankschannel2642]

@@RVLifeNOW Oldie but a goodie.

[@brharris0435]

Graphite anti-seize is the way to go, in addition purchase a quality penetrating oil (Deep Creep?). An impact screwdriver set...when used in conjunction with penetrating oil and hammer will move most bolts you encounter.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks for the suggestions. I have a hand/hammer impact driver but not the necessary bits. An 18 volt impact is on my list of tools to get.

[@grantekstrom]

Do you have a bushing on the stainless steel bolt you use to connect the roller furling unit to the chainplate? Do you think stainless steel bolts are satisfactory to be load bearing in standing rigging?

[@RVLifeNOW]

Yes, there is a bushing from the roller furling plates, going through the chain plate toggle. There is a bolt inside of the bushing. This is original Profurl. I haven't heard of anyone having any strength issues with this arrangement. For other standing rigging, I would stay with proper toggle pins rather than bolts of questionable ancestry. Actually, all of our clevis pins are grade 5 titanium. Grade 5 titanium is 3.5 times stronger than 316 stainless. Grade 5 titanium is unaffected by the marine environment. A bit of overkill, but I prefer it like that. If you had any concerns about a Profurl, supplied, bolt, you could always be sure with a Ti5 bolt. Thanks for your comment.

[@Abrunito]

Excelente video.where are you Noe un that momento country?

[@RVLifeNOW]

We are in South Africa....getting ready for Uruguay or Brazil. You? -Rebecca

[@rubennavegante3491]

THANKS

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thank YOU!

[@mywaybetterlife]

Very helpful but why did you through the joint in the water? If we all do that the marina will be full of joints.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Precisely Steve. He shouldn’t have done that. But he was pissed off and sometimes you do things like that when you are mad.

[@melee401]

I learned the hard way and now only keep cobalt M-42 drill bits around. I also keep a Drill Doctor and a belt grinder to sharped them with along with plenty of spare bits in the most common sizes. Anti-Seize in my galvanic protection coating of choice. I tend to stay with the pulverized aluminum compound except in high heat areas like exhaust manifolds where I use the pulverized bronze compound. I will in fact take bolts out of things that need no repairs to coat them with Anti-Seize compound just to be sure when the time comes for maintenance and repairs that I am not swearing a lot. Busted Easy Outs can be ground out with tungsten carbide Dremel tool bits. You have to be very careful and go very slow because if you break a tungsten bit off inside a fitting you're quite screwed. Johnnie paychecks being pushed to perform repairs in time frames that don't allow for the care that is needed to do the work correctly is something all should be aware of. Then there are those who simply do not care and are in fact not being pushed for profits.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks for the comment. I did not know there was a designation for the type of cobalt drill bit. Like you, I am now a big believer in cobalt drill bits. While working in the diesel engine shop at the U.S. Army base at Kwajalein Atoll, in the Pacific, they had a tool specifically designed for removing broken easy outs. It had strong wires that slipped into the broken easy out then a ring descended to tighten the wires. Twisting with a wrench allowed the opposite rotation of the easy out for extraction. Not a tool one would find at the local hardware store.

[@melee401]

@@RVLifeNOW I tend to not use Easy Outs. They can swell the bolt shank putting even more pressure into the threads. I generally go straight for a drill and then size up as far as I can go. I use a Dremel tungsten bit to spot the center of the shank before drilling to insure the drill doesn't wander off center. Once I get to a respectable inside diameter I the use the Dremel with a tungsten bit to slowly round out. Once the threads can be seen emerging I fill the hole with a penetrating fluid. A dulled out bottoming tap can be used to lock onto the remainder of the bolt shank for extraction. A sharp tap will tend to want to get sucked into cutting the softer material around the bolt shank taking out the wrong threads. A pick can sometimes get enough of the top threads away from the sides and a pliers used to extract what then looks like a spring of threads. I have very rarely used an Easy Out because of the breakage issues. As mentioned earlier though, you have to be very careful with those tungsten Dremel bits, snapping one can be disastrous. If worse comes to worse and I have to sacrifice the threads then it's time for a helicoil. I have also machined over sized bolt shanks and slotted them to screw into over sized and tapped holes and then drilled those to the proper size and tapped them to take in the replacement bolts of the original dimension too. Getting good at these things can make you quite popular in cruising circles.

[@RVLifeNOW]

@@melee401 Spencer, Thank you very much for posting this valuable information. I will now be using my Dremel for spotting prior to drilling. Any time I used an Easy Out, it did seem to me that the tool would be pressing even harder against the outsides which in effect would be counter productive. When it seemed I was ready to break the easy out, and the screw would still not turn, I would go to the next larger easy out and drill a larger hole. There are times, as you say, drilling the hole so big, the unwanted threads would peal out like a spring. Maybe that is the best way to go.

[@melee401]

@@RVLifeNOW The issues I have had with straight drilling to the perfect outside dimensions are always with keeping the drill straight and perfectly centered all the way into the shank. That is why I began using Dremel tools with tungsten bits to round out the holes and keep better track of those issues. It takes good lighting and patience but I can count the times I have had to go to a helicoil on one hand after decades of using that method. As the Dremel reaches the proper diameter for easier thread extraction the swirl of the threads becomes very pronounced before you punch through them into the base medium threads. I have broken a few tungsten bits too, but in those cases there was always enough room below the bolt to drive the tungsten bit into for safe holding until I was done with that operation and could extract it using needle nosed pliers. Slow and steady with the tungsten bit is the only way to mill out the final dimensions that will allow you to fill the hole with penetrating oil and allow for what should from there be fairly easy extraction of the remains while salvaging the medium threads for further use. Many of the time these operations go down they do so in less than ideal conditions for being able to get the multiple angles of sight needed to insure the drill is running straight and on center. I get it as close to that as I can but rarely succeed to the degree needed to insure the medium threads are not going to be whacked. So I just go as large as I can and then use the Dremel from there. It is very hard to expect milling machine or even drill press accuracy with a hand drill. In fact it is impossible more often than not to get the accuracy in drilling one needs to not hit the medium threads to the diameter needed. Once a hole runs off to the sides or wanders from center it is impossible to properly correct that with a drill. And yes, when bolts shear off it takes more than just a center punch to center up for the pilot drilling. A round tipped Dremel tungsten bit is perfect for spotting up a pilot. There is also something to be said for a small index of reverse twist drill bits as well.

[@seahorse4479]

Whats your opinion on synthetic rigging for forstay?Will the gauge you had,work for synthetic rigging also.Your skills and knowledge are impressive.ty

[@RVLifeNOW]

There are some things I don't need to experiment with, like the rigging. I will stay with what is known to work for a predetermined time. We just arrived in S. Africa from Tanzania and some of the weather we just went through I would not trust anything but 316 or 304 wire. Experimenting is not worth the risk in the middle of an ocean or far from facilities....like America or Australia.

[@Rittlesleo]

Are you from Colorado? Only the lure of sailing could take us away from those beautiful mountains. Appreciate your great maintenance tips.

[@RVLifeNOW]

I grew up in Miami but moved to Colorado Springs in my early twenties. People would ask "But don't you miss the ocean?" Not at all; there were so many outdoor things to do in Colorado which changed with the seasons, except in the spring when everything was muddy from the melt. I had a great income working at the Henderson mine near Empire, where I lived at that time. Mountain life was very agreeable. But the dream of doing a solo circumnavigation would never go away so in 1978, I moved back to Miami and set out on a 3 year circumnavigation. Where in Colo. did you live?

[@SVSparklemuffin]

Hi Patrick, thanks for a great video! How did you get the furling assembly up without bending the foils? I'd be concerned that it could sag excessively and possibly bend/buckle.

[@RVLifeNOW]

You are right, that is a big concern. As the head stay assembly is being hoisted up, people on the ground lift it as needed to help keep it as straight as possible till it is in a near vertical position. 3 people on the ground make for a good hoist, with the shortest person at the roller drum and the tallest closest to the boat.

[@michaelsimpson9779]

I think you have an NZ made Manson Anchor there in shot as you finish up the video. What do you think of it? I bought one, and as it came, it looked a bit like a Friday afternoon job. There are a couple of sharp dags on it, the gal on the shank is chipped in several places and the quality of the welding looked a bit so so.... I was going to buy a SARCA, but my mate at the Chandlery talked me into the Manson. Had I seen it prior to purchase, I probably wouldn't have left the shop with it. When I picked it up from the store, my mates wife had just had a stroke a week or so prior so that sort of distracted me, I just took it and left. Mechanically its probably fine, I'm just not happy having to take a grinder to a new product and applying cold gal to fix what shouldn't need fixing......

[@RVLifeNOW]

Sounds like it had been thrown around during transport to the store. We had a Bruce which served us well for many years. The Bruce, however, would slip on smooth coral or very, very, soft mud. We wanted to follow the design improvements and go with something with a more pointy end. So far, the Manson is doing well in all conditions. We are happy we bought it. I wish we had room on the bow for the old Bruce but the CQR is the only other anchor that will fit next to a primary anchor. The CQR is well proven to fail but has helped as a backup. Thanks for your comment.

[@simoncox4471]

Enjoyed a lot. Is there a reason you have to use butyl? Could a polyurethane sealant work like say sikaflex?

[@RVLifeNOW]

I was at the Shannon boat factory in Bristol, Rhode Island, looking at a new boat they were building. I asked the owner of Shannon what bedding compound he used for bedding the just installed jib track. He said, butyl. I asked why he did not use 3M5200, a strong polyurethane sealant. He said, 5200 is not flexible enough and will eventually pull away from the metal causing a leak. I did not believe him so used 5200 for caulking my chain plates. He was right. A polyurethane sealant does not work well. Sikaflex is a brand like 3M and makes many different types of sealant. Stay with something that is very sticky yet expands and contracts well; butyl is a good choice although there might be another good choice or two. But not a polyurethane.

[@pmalain]

Thank you Patrick and Rebecca very informative. The tensionner meter seems brand new. Any recommendation of which brand to buy?

[@RVLifeNOW]

It was borrowed from a friend (Keith on Atalanta). It’s interesting you asked. We have many of our stays off on the hard here in S Africa and I just commented to Patrick yesterday that we need to get a gauge instead of always borrowing one. The one we were using is pretty pricey, and I’m wondering if there are some alternatives. What have you seen? -Rebecca

[@pmalain]

@@RVLifeNOW I have seen a simpler one being used here by a fellow sailor to check the tension on his Pogo 30 before I accompanied him to Bermuda. It was borrowed form the Liberty landing marina service Dept. I will ask them and get back to you with the info Rebecca. It seems a necessary tool for a long voyage.

[@RVLifeNOW]

I agree and we would definitely like to hear back from you as to what it is. -Rebecca

[@dannyhorne700]

@@RVLifeNOW The gauge that you used is $109 on Amazon

[@yachticus]

@@dannyhorne700 - not quite the wire diameter dictates which gauge - they need the PT-3 which is quite a bit more expensive

[@SailingPivo]

Thanks for the good informative video. Anyone know if 4200 would work in place of butyl rubber?

[@RVLifeNOW]

Many people use 4200. But butyl more flexible

[@greencomfortliving4909]

would you recommend copper tread protector? like the paste, if you are going to service every 12 months.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Copper will adversely react with the aluminum parts and cause degradation. A couple experienced cruisers I have discussed this subject with highly suggest using Tefgel as it will last longer than the LanoCote I had been using.

[@russellpurdie]

I believe a 'bolt' that has thread the whole length is called a set screw.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Possibly so!

[@beastlyendeavour9184]

Would 3m 5200 be an ok alternative to butyl? Also would ceramic antiseise ( automotive brake lube) be a good alternative to lantic?

[@RVLifeNOW]

No and No. As the owner of Shannon yachts, in Bristol, Rhode Island once told me, 5200 is not flexible enough and will eventually pull away from the metal creating a leak....he was talking about bedding a jib track. I didn't believe him so used it to seal the chain plate to deck join. He was right. If you did use 5200 inside a mechanical terminal anyway, to get it undone at a later date, it would take a propane torch to soften it up. I have never used brake lube so would stay with what is proven to be successful....although a very experienced cruiser has assured me that Tefgel works better than LanoCote. That is a result from a rugged long term experiment.

[@mikejmardis]

You can use fluid film too

[@RVLifeNOW]

Not familiar with that...whats it used for?

[@mikejmardis]

@@RVLifeNOW it’s a lanolin based penetrating fluid. It has a lower viscosity then what you guys were using. It can be purchased in aerosol cans, gallon buckets or drums.

[@yachticus]

Patrick - for those that are half interested - Selden provide a really usefull guide to sorting out and rigging a yacht - addresses both masthead configurations as well as fractional - pretty much compulsory reading I would think www.seldenmast.com/files/1571039872/595-540-E.pdf

[@RVLifeNOW]

Ian, thanks for the information.

[@haydenwatson7987]

I replaced my forestay and furler last year and really hated the amount of bending that I have seen in all videos of this task. When you attached to the top of the foil, the bending is always a lot. I ended up using a prusik knot down about 25% of the total length, with a safety line to the bottom of the extrusion. Doing this I had very little bending.

[@RVLifeNOW]

All that bending can't be good on the joins. You have a nice idea. Thanks.

[@franciscambron]

What about graphite anti seize ?

[@RVLifeNOW]

I use a past of graphite anti seize on the diesel engine but it would be messy on other components that get handled or soaked with water. The Tef-gel or LanoCote do well enough.

[@jimanderson2518]

I've been using butyl for 30 years on cooling towers The one thing that is an absolute with butyl is clean clean clean the surface with either 90% alcohol or methyl hydrate .Removing oily dirt in hard to reach areas can also be done heating with a propane torch. As long as your it's safe of course:) Absolutely no dirt or oil to be on the item. This will ensure good contact and 0 contaminants in the butyl. Just an added info. Also I do have a t-shirt that say I love buty😁⚓ Sail on brothers Cheers from the @captains.chair

[@RVLifeNOW]

Hi Jim, Thanks for the professional information. What brand butyl do you use and does it come in the normal size caulking gun tubes?

[@mr.e7022]

So why did you hire those "pros"? You make informative videos, thank you.

[@RVLifeNOW]

That is a good question and, unfortunately, a common one asked by many boat owners when dealing with hired boat workers. In my case, I wanted good, experienced, people to make a quick, accurate, job of putting the head stay rig back together. I did not want to be out on the dock for 12 hours working on this project, even with willing friends. Additionally, I was hoping to learn something new from an experienced rigger, shortcuts, a better way, or something I simply failed to notice previously. You never know where the next bit of learning experience is going to come from. Even a person who has no direct experience with a project might have other experiences which brings fresh eyes and another view and a great solution. But this rigger did help us get the new extrusions through the terrible customs labyrinth. He also loaned me his propane torch to try to heat the two bolts loose. He was helpful in many ways. There is a quote from a friend in Connecticut about the boat yard workers he had to deal with; “Those are the most inexperienced, overpaid, people I have ever had to deal with. Maybe the owner of the company knows what is going on but the people he sends out to do the work, don’t have a clue.” Certainly my pro rigger was better than the workers the boat owner in Connecticut had to deal with. The reality is, any time you hire people to work on your boat, you still have to be a manager.

[@rebeccachildressmichaelhay6420]

Patrick Childress Good answer Patrick. That’s the awesome thing about you...you know so much already but you are always trying to learn more from paid professionals! Sometimes they should pay YOU...but you still always manage to learn from them. Nobody is perfect..not you, not the supposed experts...but for an older dog, you are always learning new tricks!

[@martyntozer6789]

I had a rerig pria to a circumnavigation and thanks to my regular boat maintenence guy found he had not changed for stay,he did the same to the chap opposite me.how many others is anyone's guess

[@RVLifeNOW]

Martyn, it is amazing how much shoddy work is done by boat "professionals" every where in the world. A boat owner is running a high risk by blindly trusting any of them to do it right without looking over their shoulder. Thanks for watching.

[@dutchglobetrotter4513]

There is only a few people I trust to do work like that, it's me, myself and I. Back in December Britican was on the hard, one of the jobs was putting some kind of propspeed on the prop and shaft. Once Simon and I were done, it was a 2 man job because the heat made it dry almost instantly and you have to apply 3-4 coats while tacky, we thought we did a half job. Later we walked to the restaurant to get some lunch, we saw a mega yacht with the same product applied, it looked a lot worse than our job, made us feel like pros. On a safety point: The preventer you use on the bottom of the mast is sub par, you really trust that little rope for a shock load? You probably have an extra block on your boat somewhere. Put the block on the extra shackle, let the first block take the main load but have the second block coast along as tight as possible without giving friction. If the main one fails, the second block takes over without a too big of a shock load. I hope you see what I'm trying to say. Stay safe where ever you are.

[@RVLifeNOW]

One cruiser told me he has had Propspeed, twice fall off of his bronze propellers. He says he followed the directions, but that can't be. Like, Coppercoat, Propspeed is fussy stuff to work with and must be applied as specified, wet on barely tacky. This Thursday, the 16th of April, we will put up our 4 month update of Propspeed and Coppercoat. As a spoiler, it is looking good especially when compared to our friends boat that applied traditional antifouling and was launched 2 weeks after us. He applied nothing to the prop. The preventer line you are speaking of does its job. There is a big but here. I fully believe in the old saying "It is easier to pull a boat than to push it.". It is a very rare occasion I have the main up when the wind is on the quarter. The lone jib gives sufficient speed when not blankeded by the main, the boat tracks far better, and there is no risk of jybing the main. I don't know why some people insist on having the main sail up when the lone jib/genoa, is the far better option. Dutch, always good to hear from you.

[@dutchglobetrotter4513]

@@RVLifeNOW Yes It sure is tricky like CC, the big secret is to clean the surface area very very very good, any dirt will spoil the product. There was one spot on the shaft where a fly landed and after a week that spot flaked off. The rest of the shaft and prop looked spotless when I last dove on it end of February.

[@ascinder]

I have use Butyl rubber via a hotmelt gun to build IG windows when I used to be a glazier. Better than the stuff you find in a tube. Better still(perhaps the best) is a product used in aviation as a fuel tank sealer commonly known as Proseal. There is nothing tougher out there that I have found. Properly mixed(it's two part) the removal of the stuff is the nightmare of many aviation mechanic. Only real con is it's limited shelf life. Worth it's weight in gold though.

[@RVLifeNOW]

I never heard of butyl in a hot melt gun. I will look around for it. Sounds very interesting. We do need something that seals but is not too difficult to get apart.

[@nobody46820]

OMG! Where to start? I don't know any real man or professional who isn't open to new/differnt ways of doing things or new products/technologies. I am a professional marine rigger and am deeply ashamed at these so-called "professionals". Out them! I want to know who to avoid, no wonder they didn't want to be filmed! They obviously aren't professionals much less real men. Their incompetence could cost lives.

[@RVLifeNOW]

So true! Thanks for watching!!!

[@rebeccachildressmichaelhay6420]

Follow Patrick and Rebecca on Brick House on their travels, fixing their boat in exotic locations and other adventures on www.whereIsBrickHouse.com

[@RVLifeNOW]

Yes...

[@oldergeologist]

A impact driver would have possibly been the answer.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Of all the tools I have on this boat, that is a tool that just got on a "to get" list. I agree, it probably would have worked. Out here in bumfunk nowhere, such things are hard to find.

[@ladygardener100]

I'm not sure why you used the riggers at all, if you had the skills and equipment yourselves, good job anyway. Does coppergrease work on any metal to any metal thread, it's what I've got, lol

[@RVLifeNOW]

You can build a pyramid by yourself but it is faster and easier to have good help. I wanted to get the project done in one afternoon and maybe learn something from a "professional". Unfortunately, the things I learned did not include any new tips or tricks from this guy. I never heard of "coppergrease". Just the name would eliminate it from use on most boats as there are too many aluminum parts which copper should not come in contact with.

[@randalljames1]

@@RVLifeNOW Coppergrease sounds like it could be copper anti seize

[@rebeccachildressmichaelhay6420]

Follow Patrick and Rebecca on Brick House on their travels, fixing their boat in exotic locations and their other adventures aboard SV Brick House on www.whereIsBrickHouse.com

[@RVLifeNOW]

Yws

[@SailingSarah]

Bolt, screw, BOLT SCREW! D: aren't there enough people always advising and trying to "correct" you now you do it yourself? Lol

[@RVLifeNOW]

Good thing there is Google to sort this out.

[@flyingdutchman6984]

I have a handheld impact driver in my tool bag that really comes in handy for removing frozen bolts and screws. I have included a link to a similar product. images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/6763a5b6-88b0-48c4-a7e9-47fb3aaf1913/svn/tekton-screwdriver-sets-2905-64_1000.jpg EDIT: Just saw this mentioned further on down in the comments. :)

[@RVLifeNOW]

Good tip! Thanks for watching!!!

[@rondog8192]

Half the video should be titled "fucking with getting a bolt out"

[@RVLifeNOW]

Walk a dock nearly anywhere and you will see Profurls with big hex headed bolts rather than set screws, for good reason.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks for watching our “getting a bolt out of a Furler” video. Rigging can be such a bi*#&! -Rebecca

[@johnnyllooddte3415]

no you cant.. its 50/50 at best

[@RVLifeNOW]

Exactly!

[@archie764]

Titanium is about 5 times stronger than Aluminum and stronger than your Hex wrench

[@RVLifeNOW]

There are a lot of different grades of titanium, each with different characteristics. I have not been able to find out what grade titanium these bolts are made of. Grade 1-4 is pure titanium but the smelting process gives each a different characteristic. Grade 5 titanium is a blend of metals making it 3.5 times stronger than 316 stainless steel. The strength of Ti5 is about the same as a grade 8 steel bolt. The chainplates, mast tangs and clevis pins on Brick House are made of grade 5 titanium. There is a very good article in Practical Sailor about titanium. I am not sure what my allen wrench is made of. The rigger was very wide eyed when he saw I was able to drill through the bolt.

[@ivleontellus]

propper disposal, throw it the water..................

[@RVLifeNOW]

Are talking about what to do with that rigger?

[@wileycsg]

I hope this comment helps to monetize this video, ...what happened in you life this last week?, please share with us

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks so much..every comment helps…sorry didn’t see it last years!

[@wienerwoods]

Cold-welding or "galling" is a major problem on boats in my experience. I also don't trust "professional riggers". I've never met one that impressed me with their knowledge or skills. Most have no formal education in engineering or materials science unlike myself, so I re-rigged my boat mysef a few years ago and encountered the same sort problems with frozed bolts and clevis pins as you show here with your furler. . From what I could tell the old rigging was original - and the boat was built in the 80s, so you can imagine the difficulties. Especially at the masthead. I was stupid enough to re-ring the entire standing rigging system 1 stay at a time with the stick up. That required hoisting myself up the mast 25 or so times, and of course the worst problems with stuck pins and bolts was at the masthead. In the end I had to cut several clevis pins with a dremel tool and hammer what was left out of the truck fittings 50 feet in the air using a butane torch and solvents and drift and a lit of swearing to get all of it apart. Here's a tip: When re-rigging, PULL THE STICK AND WORK ON THE GROUND. Do everything at the same time. FWIW, I had the lower stays installed by rigger from West Marine - for free - after they sent me THE WRONG SIZE REPLACEMENT STAYS. Mind you, I'd sent them the old stays to use as templates, and they STILL FUCKED IT UP. West Marine's flagship rigging service! And it didn't end there. When I went up the stick to inspect the installation, guess what? The rigger had used the WRONG SIZED CLEVIS PINS, AND INSTALLED THEM BACKWARDS so that rather than being failsafe if the cotter pin failed, by having the cotter pin BELOW the head of the clevis, the idiot installed them in such a way that the cotter pin was taking the latteral loads rather than the head of the pin as designed! Needless to say, I was not amused.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Like one sailboat owner said of the yard workers, "Maybe the owner of the company knows what is going on, but the people he sends out to do the work, don't have a clue!" Recently we watched a miserable yard crew spray painting a boat right after it rained and the ambient humidity was far to high, then it rained again just after the paint set up. The stories are endless. If your mast is that old, I assume you looked very close at the mast tangs. Thanks for your comment and advise to take down the mast to do extensive rerigging.

[@wienerwoods]

​@@RVLifeNOW I seem to recall replacing all the turnbuckles and cotter pins but not the tangs. I have a penatrant dye test kit than I use on the lower rigging, at the very least I need to test the upper tangs and I should probably just replace them. It's a day's work and maybe a couple of hundred dollars in parts. I also need to replace my bob-stay. The last one parted on me about a year after I bought the boat. It sounded like a gunshot and shook the whloe boat. I was hard on the wind coming OUT of the harbor under full sail in around 12 knots of breeze. As soon as I realized what happened I released the sheet , and ran forward and attached a spare halyard to pushpit, and then another spare. The bowsprit - which is 2" thick solid teak - and the thick stainless straps holding it to the hull strapped on the windward side, but by god she held the mast up, even under that huge 140 Genoa I was flying. The stay was 30 years old and parted - where else - at the lower end. Totally invisible - crevice corrosion ate that stay from the inside out. So thanks for the reminder. I'm planning to start cruising again this fall, and I'd really like to keep the stick up. My last boat was dismasted by hurricane Odile in 2014 when another boat in the yard fell on her. I loved that boat. She was a Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20, and I refit her myself . Thanks for going to the trouble to make these videos and share your knowledge. I was a college professor teaching technical subjects for many years, so I know someone who's both knowledgeable and a good communicator. The crusimg world is a small one - Maybe we'll run into each other some day. If so drinks are on me.

[@RVLifeNOW]

@@wienerwoods We were dismasted in the middle of nowhere, S.Pacific because of very hidden crevices corrosion in one chain plate, the only chain plate that was not changed over the years. Every part on a sailboat has an expiration date and soon after a fail date. Yes, hope to see you out here, one day!

[@freelectron2029]

um.. why did you pay people to do a job your able to do yourself????

[@RVLifeNOW]

Patrick hired a professional rigger because he 1. wanted to have some GOOD education experienced help. 2. Wanted to learn more from someone he was impressed with in initial discussions.

[@whiggerhunter4268]

Hope you got back some of your money from the "Professionals"..

[@CharlieBates47]

Why did you hire a rigger as opposed to doing it yourself, which you ultimately did anyway. I do my own boat work and always say: “I don’t know if it was done right but I do know what was done”.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Nope…