Clear Wood Finish Choices - Refinishing Furniture

Choose the right clear wood finish. Each has pros and cons. There are 5-6 basic chemistries sold under many gimmicky names. Clear Wood Finish Choices will help you sort through the myriad of wood finishing exaggeration and puffery!
From this video we'll explore the the differences in clear wood finishes. There are 5 basic chemistries that make up virtually all the wood finish products on the market. Mix a little oif this and a dab of that market the heck out of it and charge whatever you want. Some priced at well over $5 per ounce!!
Each of the 5 basic chemistries has unique properties. Some more suitable than others for different projects. I this I'll review the properties of each and list the pros and cons so you can cut through the hype and make the right choice that best suits your project.
Please leave comments and ask questions. I really do love to hear from y'all.
You can for free view, choose, download and print any or all of my 1-2 Page Summary Sheets from my website HERE:
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0:00 - Intro
2:10 - Wood Finish Categories
3:12 - Shellac
3:30 - Lacquer
4:10 - Polyurethane
10:10 - Varnish
12:55 - Oil Finish Basics
14:24 - Linseed Oil
16:40 - Tung Oil
22:43 Paul's Own Combo Finish Recipe
VIDEOS:
Project Preparation:
How to remove paint from wood | Beginner Guide | Part 1 - • How to remove paint fr...
How to remove paint from wood | Beginners Guide | Part 2 - • How to remove paint fr...
Chemical Strippers vs Heat Gun - • Chemical Strippers vs ...
Sanding Efficiently - • Sanding Wood Beginners...
Choosing the Right Grade Sandpaper - • Choosing the Right San...
Finishing:
How to stain wood | Beginners Guide | Furniture Refinishing - • How to stain wood | Be...
Blotch-Free Wood Stain Technique - Refinishing Furniture - • Blotch-Free Wood Stain...
Clear Wood Finish Choices - • Clear Wood Finish Choi...
Paul's Combo Finish - • THE Best Clear Wood Co...
About Polyurethane Wood Finish - Refinishing Furniture - • About Polyurethane Woo...
Apply Polyurethane without Bubbles, Puddles, Runs or Brush Marks - • How To Apply Polyureth...
When and How to Wipe On Polyurethane - • When and How to Wipe O...
Ultimate Guide to Bubble Free Varnish - • How To Apply Spar Uret...
How to Apply Tung Oil - • how to apply tung oil ...
Clean Up:
Fixing Polyurethane Bubbles, Puddles, Runs and Brush Marks - • Fixing Polyurethane Bu...
Proper Brush Cleaning - • Proper Paint Brush Cle...
WEBSITE: paulsdiy.solutions/
ARTICLES:
Project Preparation:
Step by Step Guide to Refinishing Furniture
paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...
Sanding Efficiently
paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...
Finishing:
Choosing the Right Clear Wood Finish
paulsdiy.solutions/refinishin...
How To Apply Tung Oil Properly
paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...
Blotch-Free Wood Stain Application Technique paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...
Bubble-Free Polyurethane Application Technique paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...
When and How to Wipe On Polyurethane
paulsdiy.solutions/refinishin...
Ultimate Guide to Bubble Free Varnish paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...
How to Apply Boiled Linseed Oil - Tips and Technique
paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...

[@SuperM1man]

I like the thick look of Poly, the bowling alleys are proof of the durability

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey SuperM1. There you go. You need to get tips from floor guys. best . . . paul

[@brandtl1486]

I have been so happy with Tried and True. It’s a polymerized linseed oil I think. I get the one with beeswax. It’s non toxic, food safe, the application is easy. Smells great! The finish is lovely. Wood will yellow in time but an oil based poly will too. It’s not super durable like a poly but I sure love it

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Brandt. I always say if something is working, why change? If you like your results stay with it. Beeswax adds to water resistance as linseed oil by itself is water resistant, not waterproof. The other potential issue to consider is linseed oil does not have natural UV protectants (tung oil does), linseed oil can turn rancid (tung oil will not) and the maintenance time for recoating is shorter (depending on use). I have a nice collection of kitchen knives and when I sharpen them I use polymerized linseed oil as I like the feel and smell of linseed oil but the downside is it is not long lasting (washing in dish soap). But because I sharpen them frequently it's not a big deal. Thanx for watching and commenting Brandt. best . . . paul

[@evil_chupacabra6364]

Thank you for the video!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey eVIL. Thanx for the feedback. You're my first reply on this vid. Launched this afternoon!! best . . . paul

[@soniabanwell6670]

Thank u for making such informative videos for us newbies!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

You're entirel;y welcome Sonia. best . . . paul

[@rileykolaski8836]

Awesome vid! Very helpful👍

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Thanx Riley. Glad to be of some help. Thanx for the feedback. best . . . GPa

[@ramziasaleem5498]

THANK YOU SIR!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

You're welcome Ramzla. Thanx for your feedback. best . . . paul

[@geecee1990]

Man, I love your videos :)

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Thanx GC. Appreciate you watching and your feedback. best . . . paul

[@lindajanke6194]

Thank you so much for the wonderful information. I've worked with wood finishes over 50 years and have used most of these methods, but some information was new and I can't wait to try them.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Thanx for your feedback Linda. My guess is you and I are over 30 years old!! LOL. Happy Holidays best . . . paul

[@ryanmalmberg4261]

Super helpful… I guess I wonder, why do all these other finishes exist! So many opinions on what is best it’s so hard to know when and what to use.

[@adamnorthville5636]

Thanks!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Welcome!

[@garyhome7101]

Hey Paul, I enjoy watching these videos, the best descriptions out there for the products you discuss! I've been watching for a couple of years and have tried your techniques several times - although I clearly need more practice to achieve great results. Have you ever done a detailed video (or videos) on rubbing out a finish on your favorite applications? What grits are worked through for wipe-on finishes, buffing in the sheen you want, and so on? The videos I've seen tend to lack details and leave some questions unanswered! Thanks for sharing your expertise!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Gary. First thanx for watching and coming back!! Buffing and polishing are procedures used for deep reflective ultra high gloss finishes. The kind that might be found on traditional or ultra modern furnishings. My personal tastes run the other direction and I prefer a low to moderate sheen finish. I have had a few clients who ask for highly polished finishes and I've accomodated them but in all honesty I don't do enough, so I'm really not comfortable trying to teach others. Sorry but again thank you. best . . . paul

[@barstad-9591]

I’m so glad I discovered you and your channel. I’m now bingeing your videos and I’m a new subscriber. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge. What do you think about hard wax/oil combination finishes?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

You're welcome Barstad. I was mentored by an older woodworker with great patience. Turns out I'm now the older guy!! Happy to be a part of your woodworking journey. best . . . paul

[@buzzpatch2294]

INTERESTING

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Buzz. Yeah thanx. There are way too many overly hyped products at outlandish prices out there. best . . . paul

[@never2late289]

Great Video! Can I use tung oil on an oil based stain? Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us🙏

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Never. Yes. Very compatable. best . . . paul

[@never2late289]

@@paulsDIYsolutionsHi Paul, thanks for the quick answer. Greetings from Germany... Corinna

[@larrywoodson696]

I really enjoyed your video. My question is I’m starting to do more Cornhole board and outdoor projects. What type of finish you will recommend.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Larry. For overall functional durability I would recommend a Spar varnish (also called marine varnish). It's waterproof, UV resistant and flexible.The benefit of being waterproof is obvious. UV resistance is important as it protects the resin that is deposited after the finish dries, which will otherwise deteriorate in the sun. The flexibility is important to avoid cracking and peeling from seasonal wood expansion and contraction. You could use either tung oil based or urethane based spar varnish for cornhole boards but I would stick with tung oil based spar varnish for your high end projects (it has a softer less plasticky appearance. best . . . paul

[@FENmap]

Before I watched this and your video that goes more in depth about your combo finish I purchased some General Finish hard wax oil and hardener. I was wondering your general thoughts on that finish. It seems simple to apply (very similar to your suggested method for wipe on poly). Have you worked with that finish and have any pros or cons utilizing it? I was planning to finish a white oak mud room shoe shelf with it. Very much appreciate all your videos and knowledge that you’ve shared. Even printed some of your materials on the website and laminated for the basement. Hope all is well. Thanks very much.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Erik. I haven't used hard wax oils in years. My issue (being an anal retentive kinda guy) I like to know exactly what is in my finshes and at what proportions. I have some Rubio Hard Wax Oil that I bought a lot of years ago for a lot of money but haven't been able to bring myself to use it on any of my projects. Sorry wish I could be of more help. best . . . paul

[@user-yi7ir2ex9s]

Hi Paul, My husband and I recently bought a big cabin with a rough cut staircase. We think it might be cedar. We like the natural look of it and it doesn't splinter even though it is really rough. However, its roughness holds onto dust and even after cleaning it, it looks dusty. We tried sanding one step to prep it for polyurethane and the interior color of the wood is much lighter than the surface so we stopped. We aren't sure which finish to go with. We want to put something on it so it wont look so dusty but we don't want a big color change like linseed oil shows in your video. We look forward to hearing your advice.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey User. First off I'm assuming there is no finish on the wood presently. Is that correct? I can't imagine that, but why else would it hold dust? All finishes will change the appearannce of wood. If you liberally dampen a rag with mineral spirits and apply it the the wood you'll get an approximate idea of what it might look like with a finish on it. For stairs I like polyurethane as it's a tough, tough finish that requires little maintenace for a lot of years! I'm sorry I can't focus because I'm thinking about rawn sawn wood stairs. Could someone have built a staircase with rough sawn wood treads?vCan you send me a picture and we can chat further, [e-mail] best . . . paul

[@Z-add]

19:28 that tung oil finish bottle is Minwax company

[@jetbug5812]

Its nice to get a profesinal non sponsered honest opion

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Yeah I know. These days most advice comes witha promotion. KZbin creators are pretty good about sharing though. best . . . paul

[@randymccullough352]

Thanks for the great videos. I am making a display case for the baseball medals and rings my grandson has accumulated. Your videos are invaluable. One question I have is if there is a major difference between Tung oil based varnish and Tung oil based spar varnish. I am having trouble finding the spar varnish….

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Randy. Nice grandfather!! Varnish consists of three parts a resin (phenolinic), an oil (tung oil is the best), and a carrier (tyically a thinner of some type). In nature there are only two oilks that dry hard (tung and linseed). Both are expensive. Manufactureers can use cheaper oils by adding hardeners and other stuff. I'm not a chemist but the difference between spar and regular indoor varnish is spar varnish resin is a longer polymer chain which makes it more flexible and UV resistant (better for outdoor projects and boats). Varnish, by itself, tends to render a high gloss, thick appearing clear finish. Tung oil is a waterproof oil that dries to a hard finish and renders a soft, warm, velvety appearance. Tung oil can be used as a stand alone finish. The downside to tung oil is it has to be renewed after a few years of service. By adding the varnish it will virtually last forever! This is where mixing ratios become important in apperance and longevity. Check out my video: "THE Best Clear Wood Combination Finish - Refinishing Furniture" (link bleow). You can find Polymerized Tung Oil and Tung Oil based spar varnish online at Lee Valley Tools and Sutherland Wells. Hope this makes sense and helps. Let me know how it turns out and your final finish choice, please. Happy Holidays. best . . . paul

[@randymccullough352]

Paul..thatnks for the quick response. I am definitly using your combination. I spent yesterday afternoon watching all your videos, along with checking out the website. The project begins today!!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Good luck Randy. You got this! best . . .paul@@randymccullough352

[@Stephanbitterwolf]

Amazing. For the Marine Environment, would your combo method be good outdoors on wood?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Stephan. Yes. Both components are really great outdoor products. Just be sure you are using pure or polymerized tung oil and that the spar varnish is tung oil based (vs urethane based). Both are UV resistant, water resistant and soft enough to handle the wood's expansion and contraction with seasonal changes. best . . . paul

[@Stephanbitterwolf]

Thanks@@paulsDIYsolutions ! I will give it a try.

[@andrewgilbert4246]

Hi Paul, Loving your videos after coming up on them by chance. Making a cot for my grand daughter and wondering if poly would be good as a coating or should I stick to Tung oil or the like? Appreciate you thoughts on it.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Andrew. Both are great finishes. Tung oil is easier to apply. I would recommend polymerized tung oil though as it dries overnight (vs days to weeks) so it can be recoated the next day. It takes 5 coats vs polyurethane which takes 3 coats. best . . . paul

[@andrewgilbert4246]

@@paulsDIYsolutionsthanks Paul appreciate it

[@brett7791]

Hi Paul, thanks for your videos. We are building a large home in a very dry high desert environment that has significant day/night temperature changes (Escalante Utah). Our windows have unfinished pine interiors. Would you recommend your combo finish for the interiors? It is a passive solar home so most windows are south facing and will get a lot of sun. We don’t want to have to reapply the finish down the road.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Brett. Sounds beautiful. Yeah it would be a great finish for that!! The oil will keep the wood supple and the spar varnish will protect it. Both are UV safe. Easy to apply and virtually full proof. I am just putting the final edits on that video. Watch for it's release this week. best . . . paul

[@brett7791]

@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks Paul. I’ll keep an eye out.

[@Cara.V9]

Hey Paul,i'd like to thank you for your videos and sharing all this wonderful info first! Now if you are still active can you please give me some advice? I am looking to make a wood gate at on my property ,and so far i got oak boards that were put through a planner ,wood has aprox 17% humidity ,i'll make a metal frame and intend to put the boards inside .. Was thinking to apply BLO because of limited budget..,do i still need sand the wood if after planing? How many coats of BLO should i put(for exterior) ,do i also need something else for uv protection? I live in temperate climate with 4 seasons if it has any importance ,year average humidity is 70%

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Cara. Sounds like a nice project! You should use an exterior finish (that is both UV and water ressitant). For you type project I would recommend a tung oil based spar varnish for get maximum durability with a nice sheen that will enhance the grain in the oak. You should sand with 120 grit and finsih with a 180 grit after planing.

[@Cara.V9]

@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks Paul,i'll try to follow your advice!

[@soniabanwell6670]

Hi Paul, we live in a century home built in 1912. Over the years the baseboards Ave been spotted with generations of paint applications to the plaster walls. Far as I know the base remain in their original stain a nice medium to darkish reddish stain. I’d like to freshen up the baseboards keeping them as close to their original stained finish and lightly sanding off the tiny paint splatters. Any ideas or recommendations on products to use after a light sanding. Thanks in advance, your input is always appreciated!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Sonia. Yeah. Polyurethane is the most durable and easiest to apply. It's the GO-TO for natural wood trim. best . . . paul

[@soniabanwell6670]

@@paulsDIYsolutions I guess I was wondering what type of stain I should use after sanding the spattering paint off. How far should I take the sanding job in order for the stain to be absorbed in the wood? Is it correct to assume that all stains were oil based in 1912?

[@francesbison1268]

Question, Paul? Would your combo finish be good for kitchen tables? I know you mentioned polyurethane is the best option for durability. Penny for your thoughts! Thanks!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

You can't beat polyurethane for overall toughness. My combo finish is a softer finish. It's durable, waterproof and UV stable and produces a soft, reflective and deep lustre. But polyurethane is more durable. best . . . paul

[@scottvisser8671]

What finish would you recomment for a wood kitchen countertop?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Scott. Strongly recommend tung oil. Food safe, waterproof and easy to repair if you need to later on.

[@juliefeagans7041]

I am so intrigued by your Paul's combo finish however I am finding it very difficult to locate the polymerized tung oil. Is Sutherland Wells one of the few suppliers? Would using polymerized linseed oil give a comparable result- it seems to be much more available? We are doing 7 six panel oak interior doors and 8 sets of bifold 6 panel oak closet doors. I was hoping the Pauls combo may have less off gassing than a wipe on poly mixture

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Julie. Sutherland has it but you can check with Lee Valley Tools as well. I think they offer free shipping s well. best . . . paul

[@magcolor]

👍👍👍👍👍

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Thanx Magcolor.

[@melissamcgill1949]

I am finishing all of the wood trim and doors of a new build in the Pacific Northwest (lots of rain). Before I found you and tung oil, I finished the outside of the big front doors with clear stain and polyurethane complete with the drips. The inside of the front doors and hemfir inside doors are being done in polymerized tung oil (hard to find) that was wiped one and went much more smoothly. I am aware the I will have to eventually redo the outside of the front doors. What might the life expectancy of the polyurethane be? Will I have to strip the polyurethane off before I can do the combo finish? Is the combo finish what you would suggest? Thanks, Melissa

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hi Melissa. Good questions. I lived in Seattle for a yaer after college. Coming from the flatlands of Chicago it was heaven. Moved there in January and didn't see the sun until July! So I'm going to assume you used an exterior rated polyurethane. It has softeners that allow for maximum wood expansion. The dampness of the area demands a finish that "moves with the wood". The combo finish would be a nice choices as it contains tung oil the original choice for finishing woods boats with spar varnish, the modern choice. Spar varnish is a surfcae coating so as long as the polyurethane is well attached (no peeling) it'll be okay. The tung oil, on the other hand, is a pentetrating finsh that soaks into the wood as long as nothing is obstructing it. The polyurethane is that obstuction so I wiuld try to remove as much as possible.And not freak out if a little remains. Hope that helps. best . . . paul

[@ttowngirl7569]

Hi Paul, what do you think of Waterlox Urethane? Is Urethane the same as polyurethane? Appearance and consistency wise in the can it doesn’t seem like it. I bought butcher block counter tops and I should have went with tung oil but I decided to use the urethane as I am a mess in the kitchen and I have no plans to actually slop food or anything else onto my counter top or cut on it. That being said, inevitably I’m usually a disaster when I cook so i wanted it sealed and protected.So far with this I have started totally over one time and am now starting over a second time on one side. I am fairly certain I’m probably sanding wrong in between, either too much or not enough and I definitely messed up on the final coat. Have you had any experience with this?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Jessica. Yeah waterlox urethane is polyurethane. When you say "one side" what do you mean. Are you talking about the top vs the bottom? If so which side ahve you finished? (Hopefully the bottom). Also what does "starting over" mean. Have you sanded to bare wood? Let's figure this out.

[@asparagii]

Hi Paul, and thanks for your series of videos - I've found them helpful. I am making a shelf for a room out of pine and have sanded it down finely - it looks great. I intend to stain it and then apply polyurethane over the top for durability. There are a couple small nail holes in the wood that I'd like to patch. I'm not sure on the best way to patch these defects? I would prefer to not have the patched hole overly noticeable, and whatever I apply will need to accept the final, polyurethane coating. I was originally thinking about the stainable wood putty, but my homework shows the patched hole will still be quite visible. The colored waxes blend in much better, but I'm not sure how they'll take polyurethane? Any advice is appreciated - thanks.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Asparagii. So a lot depends on the size of the holes you are trying to fill. Ideally you would have nail holes from a finish nail (very samll). On these I stain, apply finish and then fill with a wax pencil. At which point I am done. Larger holes I like to use saw dust mixed in stain, let dry then mix with wood glues to make a paste. Use the paste to fill the defect, let dry then sand flat so that only the hole contains the glue/saw dust mixture. The surrounding wood is still bare at which point I stain. On larger holes certain woods present a challenge (pine included) because of blotches. It's really hard to get an even repair on pine and other woods that are susceptible to blotching. I woul;d defeinitely try the wax pencil route. Hope that wasn't confusing. best . . . paul

[@asparagii]

@@paulsDIYsolutions thanks very much for the detailed response Paul. I have a few, small finish nail holes only, so the wax pencil idea sounds great. To confirm, I would stain, apply polyurethane, and then use the wax pencil right? Also, I believe the wax pencil doesn't cure to a hard state (I could be wrong?). As this repair will be done on a shelf, if I then stack some item on top of the wax repair will that be a problem? Thanks again for your help/ advice. Regards.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

@@asparagii Yes that's how I would proceed. No problem with placing anything on it.

[@asparagii]

@@paulsDIYsolutions thanks again Paul. I see my local hardware has Minwax "Blend-Fil" pencils - I will try them. I appreciate your advice - thanks for helping out a novice.

[@BobMcClain-hm9gu]

Hi Paul! My wife and I had Andersen Windows installed and a big bay window. The top and bottom panels and trim between window panels is a very light blond wood. I'd like to use Polymerized Tung Oil but I can't find it anywhere. Any suggestions? Also, how do you 'saturate' the upper panel. The bottom one is easy but the top??? Again, any suggestions? Also, those little strips of trim...

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Bob. Try Lee Valley Tools and Sutherland Wells. Both are online stores. Think about my conmbo finish. I think the spar varnish added will add extra protection. "THE Best Clear Wood Combination Finish - Refinishing Furniture" (link below). best . . . paul kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKm1maSndt-ogtE

[@BobMcClain-hm9gu]

@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks Paul. I've seen the video on your combo. I guess I was hoping I could get by with just the Tung Oil, but since I really want this to be a showpiece, I guess I'll have to bite the bullet. Great advice!

[@NancyScott-Thomas]

Thanks for all the info. Nothing beats experience! I have a question about finishing an old pine dresser I picked up here in Ontario. It has lots of dings and some iron oxide marks which I would like to keep as it's part of its history. I am uncertain whether it was ever finished. There is no varnish or polyurethane on it. I do think it needs some oil as it's a bit dry and it would be nice to even out some of the sun damaged spots. What do you recommend? I would send a photo but don't think I can on KZbin?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Send it to [e-mail]. Make sure you come back here and tell me you sent cause I never check that email.

[@NancyScott-Thomas]

@@paulsDIYsolutions Hi Paul. Photos are sent! Thanks!!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

@@NancyScott-Thomas Turned out beautiful. Good job!!!

[@NancyScott-Thomas]

@@paulsDIYsolutions Actually, I haven't done anything to it yet. I am curious what you recommend to finish it while retaining some of its character?

[@Mega_trav]

What product would you recommend to use over chalk paint? I am thinking about polycrylic or water based varathane because of low odor. Thanks!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Mega. Polyurethane is a great choice however if you watched my videos I am not a fan of water-based polyurethane. It still has an odor but less VOC's. best . . . paul

[@Mega_trav]

@@paulsDIYsolutions thanks! Do you know of anything that has less odor that would work well?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Why don't you go to pure or polymerized tung oil? Pure is 100% natural. Polymerized has thinners but in low amounts compared to polyurethane. @@Mega_trav

[@CorvetteTrev]

I'm having trouble because I'm not sure if my stain is a polyurethane, it is gunstock varathane- premium fast dry. I've gone over it 4x, it is oil based. I can't find a straight answer anywhere. If it's not a polyurethane, should I add another top coat? I would buy what you tell me if this is not a polyurethane. I didn't want it super glossy. Thanks! (*it reads "wood stain" varathane , oil based,) I mixed this with paint thinner... I'm about done

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

From what I can see is it is a wood stain. This is the BS that manufactuerers put us through!! Tell me once again what you are finishing.

[@johnhouli3450]

Paul what would you use right near the ocean extreme heat and rain and salt in the air 9 foot Mahogany Door. To protect what would you use. Ali in back of home had a large deck built in April of 2023 will be heading to home in a few months what would you suggest on this pressure treated wood to protect from this environment?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey John. Sounds beautiful. Got a spare bedroom? The go to for salt water has been spar (marine) varnish. It's waterprrof, UV resistant and flexible. Also called marine varnish it's been used on wooden boats for years. Be sure you are using tung oil based varnish and not spar urethane. Pure or polymerized tung oil would be my second choice also used on boats for centuries. It too is waterproof, UV resistant and flexible. If you want to enhance it even more you could use my combo finish which combines pure or polymerized tung oil with tung oil based spar varnish. Tung oil penetrates and helps preserve the wood (it's an oil, think lubricant) while spar varnish envelopes the wood in a durable surface coating. I have application videos on all three. How To Apply Spar Urethane (same procedure for tung oil based spar varnish) - kzbin.info/www/bejne/gHfKnaKEZax2ias How to apply tung oil tips and technique - refinishing furniture - kzbin.info/www/bejne/m4HRZWNviamGZtE THE Best Clear Wood Combination Finish - Refinishing Furniture - kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKm1maSndt-ogtE best . . . paul

[@johnhouli3450]

Thank you Paul, HM sells this Rust-Oleum Marine would this work on my 15 year old Mahogany door and my 8 month old railing of my outside Patio. Thank you. Merry Christmas Paul to you and Family.

[@johnhouli3450]

Paul would spar varnish with ting oil turn the railing darker. We don’t want darker. We want Natural but also want the best. Ty

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey John. I checked on Rustoleum website and while they say it's oil based they don't specify the type oil. While I am not loyal to any particular brand I do get my spar varnish from Sutherland Wells (online). Too many manufacturers are not upfront with their ingredients. best . . . paul@@johnhouli3450

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey John. "Most" all wood will turn amber when ANY liquid is applied. Plus oil is amber in color naturally. So the answer is yes and no. best . . . paul@@johnhouli3450

[@orcasea59]

Paul, can all these be used over a stain? the wood trim in my living room furniture is dark (I use Antique Walnut).

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Orcasea. Yes they will all work just fine over stain. best . . . paul

[@orcasea59]

@@paulsDIYsolutions thanks, Paul!

[@melaniemann9555]

If you have1 coat of water based polyurethane can you switch over to oil based

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Mealanie. Yes. Sand well with a 180 grit (enough to scratch the surface) and then follow the steps in my video How To Apply Polyurethane Without Bubbles, Puddles, Runs or Brush Marks | Updated" (link below). best . . . paul kzbin.info/www/bejne/pKnafqCgnJmef7s

[@stanleysmith8984]

i am using Polyurethan on some pasatry boards. I am using five coats to make them very usable. Do you think the poly will hold up to the flour and things used to make bread and pastry?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Stanley. Yes it will probably work. Something to consider though: polyurethane is not a food safe product and isn't recommended for food prep surfaces. best . . . paul

[@stanleysmith8984]

@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks for the quick response. I read somewhere that if the Poly is cured for 30 days that it is food safe. What do you recommend. I never used Tung oil, yet. However after your video I think I will get some and try it. Thanks agfain.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

@@stanleysmith8984 The carriers evaporate but the coating doesn't. Polyurethane is a plastic resin. Once dried you can eat off of it but if you cut into it the resin shavings will contaminate food.

[@stanleysmith8984]

@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks for the answers I will for sure warn the people I made the boards for. However they do look beautiful.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

@@stanleysmith8984 I sometimes think that all the warnings that are abundent today might be overdone. Glad they turned out well!!

[@ronaldlowis225]

Using southern welles polymerized tung oil what is your thoughts

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Ron. (Sutherland Welles) That's my go to!! You'll be very happy with it. best . . . paul

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

PS. Releasing my combo finsh video this week. Combines Tung Oil with their Spar Varnish. Keep your eyes open. t is a reeeeeeally nice finish.

[@ronaldlowis225]

@@paulsDIYsolutions thx

[@user-pw3yx5sg2b]

What is the difference of Spar Varnish and Spar Urethane? We have an exterior front door of a house we are working on. what is the best after applying oil based stain?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey User. Spar varnish is a phenol resin whereas urethane is a plastic resin. That's all the chemistry I think I know. What I do know is polyurethne (unless treated) is not UV tolerant and it doesn't like seasonal temp and humidity changes. It's not very flexible. Spar varnish (also called "marine" varnish) is very tolerant to Ultraviolet ligth and seasonal humidity induced wood expansion and contraction. It's flexible. So in a nutshell I prefer polyurethane for my indoor projects and spar varnish for my outdoor. Don't know where you live but you'd be safe to go with spar varnish on both sides of the door. best. . . paul

[@veronicaramirez7786]

We live in AZ, down in the valley.. Phoenix. The brand we have is indoor/outdoor Helmsman spar urethane 350 v.o.c. compliant and says it has exceptional protection from sunlight, rain and moisture an temp changes. On the back it says it is specially formulated to contract and expand and enhanced uv absorbers found in Helmsman.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

@@veronicaramirez7786 Yep that's what the manufacturer says.

[@veronicaramirez7786]

Is that what you mean by treated or from your experience you would still use varnish?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

@@veronicaramirez7786 So in a nutshell I prefer polyurethane for my indoor projects and spar varnish for my outdoor.

[@sarar4510]

Hi Paul! First thank you for the very insightful information. if you see this and have some time I was wondering if you might offer up some expertise! I have been learning so much! I have been refinishing my childhood table. Probably not smart for my first project to be something so dear to me but here I am! It’s also a veneer. I originally was going to do a mixture of Minwax helmsman spar urethane clear semi gloss (1 tablespoon) with minwax ting oil finish (1 cup) (found from KZbin video) but now I am not thinking it will be durable enough for a kitchen table. I have already added 3 coats of the tung oil finish and 1 coat of the mixture. I changed my mind that day and tried to wipe the mixture coat off and sand but not sure if it did anything. I’ve just found your channel and realized I should have put way more work into researching before I started! Any advice? I feel so stuck right now. I have been reading and watching so many videos, it’s overwhelming!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Sara. Let me start by asking how it looks at this point?

[@sarar4510]

@@paulsDIYsolutions it’s looking OK… it’s got some shiny spots and some dull spots on it

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

@@sarar4510 So the uneveness in the sheen is probably do to incomplete coverage. What happens is the wood soaks up the finish in some spots and is done (the finish then lays on the surface creating wet looking spots) and still thirsty in others (dry spots). As you have probably learned tung oil finish is not pure tung oil (and possibly not any tung oil). I'm not sure it's a differnt concoction with each manufacturer. Please check the back of both cans and tell me what they recommend under clean up.

[@sarar4510]

@@paulsDIYsolutions I can’t thank you enough for your time helping me figure this out! The Minwax Tung Oil Finish is cleaned up with a “regionally compliant cleaner”. And the urethane says it’s cleaned up with mineral spirits or paint thinner

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

@@sarar4510 I used to love minwax. But as of the last couple years I'm drifting away. I went on their website for an explanation of regionally compliant. I understand that some states have banned a lot of cleaners and thinners but come on. Soap and water is regionally compliant but unless the product is water based it'll make a huge mess. Enough soap box, sorry. Dose the minwax can say oil or water based?

[@vickialm2596]

👌👍👌👍👌👍

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

I like this. A woman of few words!! (just kidding). best . . . paul

[@PaganWizard]

I have noticed in many of your videos, that you pretty much stick with brushing or wiping on your finish. How do you feel about spraying finishes, when spraying should be, may be, or not used. What are the pros and cons associated with spraying?? I know oil based products CAN NOT be used in an airless sprayer because of the fire risk, but beyond that, I am pretty much clueless.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey pegan. I do spray both water and oil with HVLP sprayers. I spray lacquer. I choose when to spray based on the size of the project. The problem with sprayung is set up and clean up. Both are time consuming. Lacquer makes sense to spray in part because of it's extremely fast dry time and the fact that it can be recoated within minutes so you're not setting up, spraying, cleaning, waiting and then again setting up, spraying, cleaning and waiting over and over and over again. best . . . paul

[@ronlacy2507]

This video is titled "Clear Wood Finish Choices". Since it specifically says "clear wood", I assume these finishes should not be used over stain since that would not be "clear wood". Is that a correct assumption on my part? Thanks.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Ron. Close. The finish itself is clear so it can be put over raw wood, stained wood or painted wood. best . . . paul