About Polyurethane Wood Finish - Refinishing Furniture

[@richardbrodbeckbeginninggu7330]

As a newbie this was one of the better vids on this

[@blanchejohns7049]

I have been painting and refinishing furniture for friends and family for years. I have a friends small cedar chest. I have sanded it down to the wood. Found that the lid has on piece of wood that doesn't look like cedar. What can I do to make it match. I want to oil finish it if possible. Please can you help me? I have been watching you on KZbin and you are very knowledgeable. Will appreciate any suggestions. Thank you

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Sorry Blanche without seeing the woods and the condition it's virtually impossible to advise you. If you can tell the difference now applying a clear coat will make it stand out more. best . . . paul

[@geecee1990]

I just finished building the new bar in our basement entertainment area. Thanks to your instruction Paul I got what I believe is the best polyurethane finish I've ever achieved on one of my projects.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Fantastic!Hey GC. Thanx for the feedback. Glad it turned out! Any Makers Mark behind the bar? If so what's the address?? LOL. Glad to be a part of the finish. best . . . paul

[@TodLychkoff-q9u]

Hi Paul, I've made a 3d, non-objective, exotic hardwood sculpture. I glued and clamped Teak, Paduk, Purple Heart, Cocobola, and Zebra wood together. I chiseled and rasped the combined woods into an attractive shape. I sanded the woods with 40, 100, 120, 150, 220, and 600 grit sandpaper, all by hand. MY QUESTION: Can I now apply Tung oil to my sculpture, or do I need to go back to a coarser grit sanding first? (Following your application instructions, which I've just been intruduced to.) Your tutorials are helpful...you're "the man." Thank you. Tod

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Sounds nice. The problem with getting too too fine of a grit is very fine sanding dust tyends to clog the wood's pores hindering absorption of the oils. I don't think you haver to step down at this point. But use a strong vacuum or an air compressor at a high pressure and try to get as mush of the dust removed. Be sure to apply the first couple coats at 70:30 thin ration (70% mineral spirits or paint thinner to 30% oil). This will help get the oil into the pores. best . . . paul

[@brendahansen3685]

I watched your video (thank you for it!) on applying polyurethane. It demonstrated on a flat surface. Would I use the same technique on vertical surfaces of furniture?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hi Brenda. Yep. Exactly the same. People worry about drips and runs but remember you are applying thinned polyurethane in ultarthin coats. You don't need a lot. Don't worry if you miss a little you are applying multiple coats so waht you don't get with the previous coat you'll get with the next one. BTW if you are applyimg to spindly or detailed areas you can use the same polyurethane but thin it 50:50 using my wipe on technique: "When and How to Wipe On Polyurethane - Refinishing Furniture". (link below) best . . . paul Video link kzbin.info/www/bejne/eYeViJxnfryoorc

[@brendahansen3685]

@@paulsDIYsolutions thank you for the guidance! I will be checking out your other videos. I like the “why’s” that you include…really helps! Thank you!

[@francesbison1268]

Also, what brand natural bristle brush did you purchase for your collection? My most expensive natural finish brush was 38-40 bucks. Just curious! I love good tools!!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hi Frances. Good brushes are almost impossible to find in the hardware or paint isles. We have become a throw-away society. People spend big bucks on designer wear and high end autos but buy the cheapest tool that might accomplish a task they understand little about. Retailers won't tie up shelf space for quality tools that can sit for years. I bought my last brush from an art supply store. They sell varnish brushes that artists use. They have them in 3 inches. Check out St Louis Art Supply under varnish brushes. best . . . paul

[@joekelner3520]

Hey Paul. Great videos! I’ve built a snare drum using a very oily wood (ziricote) and someone recommended that I use a water based finish because the oil of the wood won’t agree with the oil based finishes. I saw another one of your videos where you touched on wiping on finish vs. brushing on the finish. Since I’m working on a round drum it sounds like I should wipe on the finish. I was also told I should do a 2 part finish and once I finish sanding I should clear the dust and immediately apply a sealer to seal in the oils of the ziricote. If I use a water based finish how can I ensure that the finish won’t crack? Also, this drum will mostly be played indoors, but it will be handled a lot, and it might be taken out to an outdoor gig occasionally.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Joe. I would ask people more familiar with ziricote. It's apparently a popular wood used in the music industry for it's sound transmission capabilities. I have never worked with it. Sorry, best . , , paul

[@TodLychkoff-q9u]

Can I apply Tung oil to exotic hardwood that has been sanded/polished with 600 grit sand paper?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Tod. Yes. However make sure you go overboard with the sanding dust removal. 600 creates a VERY fine sanding dust and can clog the wood's pores which will hinder absorption. I would use an air compressor at close range to remove as much as possible. I usually stop at 300-400 grit when oiling. BE SURE to thin the oil for the initial coats as this too will help penetration. best . . . paul

[@ernestovillarreal753]

How can you do 9 boards (all sides)? It's a small bench / picnic table without taking forever to do . The boards are 50 inches in length. What procedure could I follow so don't have to take forever in applying the poly.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Earnest. I'm laughing, not at you, but this is a typical response. I built my kitchen cabinets it only took me three years!! The average person lives 657,000 hours. I can see where 6 hours over 3 days can put a serious dent in your time on earth!! LOL. Anyway sorry for the sarcastic lecture. Flip the table on it's back and do the underside and legs. Flip it over again and do the top side. Repeat for two more days and ur done!!! Make sure you are using an exterior rated polyurethane. best . . . paul

[@kathyg1641]

Thanks for the video! It’s helping me see what I did wrong with my first attempt at refinishing my oak dining table. Do you apply grain filler before or after the wood stain? Would you recommend a satin or a semi gloss polyurethane for a dining table?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey kathy. Personally I would not use a grain filler with either satin or semi-gloss finish. Grain filler is used to achieve a deep reflective finish comonly seen with gloss finishes. I prefer satin finishes but that's me. best . . . paul

[@citizenjournalist1558]

Paul, can I apply oil poly over a thinly applied oil paint on a plywood surface (grain sealed with a wood conditioner before applying paint)? Or, can I tint poly with a liquid universal colorant?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Citizen. Yes to both. best . . . paul

[@brendadeprefontaine3661]

Hello, I've watched your video a couple of times because I'm about to polyurethane my stairs. I chose the premium oil minwax fast drying polyurethane. It says easy smooth application? I was about to do the three parts to one part paint thinner and I'm a little worried. It looks like the polyurethane is very thin already. Should I go ahead and put that one cup of paint thinner in there? Very unsure here.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Brenda. I would thin it 3:1 for a nice finish. best . . . paul

[@brendadeprefontaine3661]

@@paulsDIYsolutionswill do, thank you Paul

[@josephregan461]

After ruining my project from “ learning “ on other KZbin videos, I’m grateful I stumbled across your channel; a master craftsman expertly teaching me the best approach to finishing. Thanks to your methods and clear guidance I was able to save my project , and it’s coming out great!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Joseph. Thanx for the compliments. Would you do me a favor and repeat this to my wife??!! Glad to be of some help. best . . . paul

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Joseph. Gald to hear! Thanx for watching and your feedback. best . . . paul

[@ernestovillarreal753]

By the way the boards are 2x4.

[@russellrzemien8586]

Hi Paul, really enjoy your videos. For oil-based polyurethane, where do you buy the high-quality brush you show in the application video and who makes it?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Russ. Good brushes are almost impossible to find in the hardware or paint isles. We have become a throw-away society. People spend big bucks on designer wear and high end autos but buy the cheapest tool that might accomplish a task they understand little about. Retailers won't tie up shelf space for quality tools that can sit for years. I bought my last brush from an art supply store. They sell varnish brushes that artists use. They have them in 3 inches. Check out St Loius Art Supply under varnish brushes. best . . . paul

[@russellrzemien8586]

Thanks for the suggestion. I also saw they have high-quality lint-free cotton cloth. I've had mixed results using "T-shirt" cloth for some wipe on application.@@paulsDIYsolutions

[@rileykolaski8836]

Thanks so much for your vids, helps so much!!!!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

You are welcome Riley. Thanx for thge positive feedback. best . . . paul

[@61sabres]

Hey Paul! Whats your opinion on the Minwax polyshades product? Thank you for your videos. I’m new to woodworking and finishing so I’ve gained a lot from watching several of them!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey 61S. I've never used it but I have friends who swear it's perhaps the worst product out there. Concept was good "Let's make a stain and finish combo. One step finishing". Heard it looks awful. best . . . paul

[@61sabres]

I tried it on an assembled bookshelf and wasn’t happy at all. It was the wrong product for that project. It pooled in the corners and is so obvious because of the stain. Perhaps there’s a better application for it, but I probably won’t use it again.

[@61sabres]

Thanks for your input!

[@techguy3507]

I am refinishing a beautiful 103-year-old dining room table. I love your videos.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Thanx Techguy. Wish I had your tech knowledge! best . . . paul

[@techguy3507]

@@paulsDIYsolutions I completed my 103-year-old dining room table refinishing. Thank you for your videos! It could not have turned out better. I used the wipe on method. I did a 50-50 mix of the super polyurethane and paint thinner for the first four coats. For the last two coats I wiped on a two parts polyurethane to one part paint thinner. Before the final coat I did a very, very light sanding with 400 grit sandpaper. The table looks absolutely beautiful. I used satin and the table doesn’t look “varnished“, it just looks beautiful with a beautiful finish. I wish I could send you some photos. This 103 year-old dining room table is amazing. It looks brand new. The joints have never come loose, they have never been re-glued, and this table is just a work of art. I also have the buffet and six chairs to refinish. It’s a lot of work but it will be worth it in the long run.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

@@techguy3507 Congrats techguy. Always nice when a DIY project exceeds expectations. Thanx for getting back with results. best . . . paul

[@Wiggles_vs._snuggles]

I align m?

[@brianhaars6668]

Will oil based polyurethane be suitable for wood accent wall in a humid area like a bathroom?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Brian. Here's the thing (well here's a couple things): Polyurethane, shellac, lacquer and varnish are srface coatings. That means they just sit on top of the wood and hopefully seal it. The problem is they seldom completely seal it and mositure gets underneath it. Now that leads to a host of issues namely peelings and cracking. OIls on the other hand are penetrating finishes which means they are absorbed into the wood and become a "part" of the wood. The problem with most oils is they never harden off completely. Pour motor oil in a pan and it will stay there forever as a liquid. This is bad because if you run your hand over an oiled surface your jand will get oily. There are two exceptions tung oil and linseed oil are classed as hardening oils. Meaning they penetrate the wood and then dry (slowly). Woodworkers, wooden boaters, homeowners with outside furniture and decks love oil finishes. Linseed oil is water resistant (not waterproof). Tung oil is waterproof! Now back to your question. I would recommend polymerized tung oil or my combo finish which is a lot of oil and a little marine (spar) varnish mixture. I have videos (links below) and printable PDF guides on my website for both. best . . . paul "THE Best Clear Wood Combination Finish - Refinishing Furniture" - kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKm1maSndt-ogtE "How to apply tung oil tips and technique - refinishing furniture" - kzbin.info/www/bejne/m4HRZWNviamGZtE Website - paulsdiy.solutions/

[@brianhaars6668]

Thank you!@@paulsDIYsolutions

[@geecee1990]

Simply awesome video :)

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Thanx again GC. best . . . paul

[@johnnajackson2305]

Thank you so much for spending your time to share your knowledge! Most definitely helpful and much appreciated!!! 😊

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Johnna. My pleasure thanx for your feedback and watching. best . . . paul

[@jmj936]

WOW! You are definitely the go to guy for finishing wood. I've always been intimidated by finishing. You've made it all make sense and easy to understand. Thx!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Glad to be of some help JMJ. Thanx for watching and your feedback. best . . . paul

[@RezaMotnasser]

Hiya Paul; nothing better than watching and learning from a master craftsman. Thank you for you sharing your craft and knowledge.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey User. Thanx for wartching and commenting. best . . . paul

[@TodLychkoff-q9u]

Thank you

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

You're welcome Tod.Thanx for watching and commenting. best . . . paul

[@richardkingrey704]

Thanks, for what you do. Fantastic videos.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Thanx Richard. Glad to be of some help. Thanx for watching and commenting. best . . . paul

[@faramarztaherian9703]

Hi Paul, Can I use a mixture of stain and varnished product in a same time?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Faramarz. No I wouldn't, however there are combo products on the market already. I don't recommend them. While I've not used them personally I've heard bad bad things. best . . . paul

[@TheCainoftier]

Around minute 12 you talk about filling grain, what do you fill it with? And close the pores with?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

I like Aqua Coat. best . . . paul

[@TheCainoftier]

@@paulsDIYsolutions thanks for the quick reply, if putting it on a water based stain, would you apply a lacquer before the aqua coat? And then polycrylic can go right on top? And do you thin polycrylic the same as oil based poly in your videos? It's going on grey stain which is why I'm going water based poly. Sorry for all the questions but I find your videos to be excellent.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

@@TheCainoftier You don't need to seal the wood before using Aqua Coat. So I use the filler and then apply my urethane. Typically it'll need to be filled again and again. Until you feel it's sufficient. Fillers are used to create a high gloss finish as a smooth surface reflects light.

[@TheCainoftier]

@@paulsDIYsolutions okay and how about polyacrylic, should I thin that the same as polyurethane 3:1

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

@@TheCainoftier Polycrylic is polyurethane. It's Minwax's marketing ploy. It's water based polyurethane so thin it 3:1 using water (not mineral spirits) as the thinning agent.

[@mbuzb75]

I’m putting in butcher block countertops. The last time I did them, they had too much sheen for my taste. I just watched your video on the tung oil/ spar varnish mixture. What would you suggest for a long lasting finish that has less sheen?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

That's a tough one mbuzb. Tung Oil is technically the only "food safe" waterproof, durable finish. Plus it's easy to repair should it need it. It becomes high gloss getting a little shinnier with each coat. I don't find 4-5 coats too shinny but others might. Other finishes add silica to dull the natural sheen of virtually all clear wood finishes.

[@mbuzb75]

@@paulsDIYsolutions I’ve been reading allot about Arm-r-seal sealer. What is your experience with that?

[@ronmorey3475]

If I want to protect an open grain wood but want to feel the grain come through (on mahogany for example), can I simply avoid using grain filler before applying the poly? Thanks!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Ron. Yes. I only use grain filler on badly weathered wood or if I'm after a deep, highly reflective sheen. Be sure to thin the polyurethane on all coats. Watch my video "How To Apply Polyurethane Without Bubbles, Puddles, Runs or Brush Marks | Updated" (link below). Now if you want a really nice finish for appearance and feel oil is the way to go. "how to apply tung oil tips and technique - refinishing furniture". And finally the best of both worlds and my absolute fav finish that's easy to apply and drop dead gorgeous "THE Best Clear Wood Combination Finish - Refinishing Furniture". Poly: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pKnafqCgnJmef7s Tung Oil: kzbin.info/www/bejne/m4HRZWNviamGZtE Paul's Combo Finish: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKm1maSndt-ogtE Be sure to visit my website to download summary sheets. They are really handy to have on hand while working. best . . . paul

[@ronmorey3475]

@@paulsDIYsolutions Wow, thank you for such a detailed response! I will indeed watch those videos and subscribe. Thanks!

[@edy9213]

Thanks for creating these helpful videos. They are particularly handy for a newbie like me🙂. We are working on our kitchen table top (have stripped it, sanded and stained). We've returned it to original dark chocolate stain colour and are ready to apply our final finish. Our intention is to apply an oil based polyurethane finish. The table top is approximately 60" in diameter (stripping showed that it is composed of several triangular veneer sections of some type to create the circular shape). My question is how to properly apply the polyurethane finish to a circular table top? Where should I start? Any suggestions would be appreciated.🙂

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Ed. The only reason to follow the grain is to hide brush marks (or minimize their presence). If you follow the steps on my orginal video "Bubble-Free Polyurethane Application Technique" you won't have to worry about brush marks. Since thickness (protection) is build up by applying multiple ultra thin layers brush marks are virtually nonexistent. My only recommendation counter to the video is apply all coats (including the last one) thinned at 3:1. Sp in essence you'll be running across the triangles. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jpCqiIuZrsmoa80 best . . . paul

[@edy9213]

@@paulsDIYsolutions Thank you Paul. I've watched your "Bubble-Free" video a few times already, but, I will watch it a few more times before I start brushing on our table top. Since I'm dealing with a circular table, do you recommend I start applying the polyurethane from one of the shorter "ends" of the table using your brushing technique? Or, should I start at the centre of the table (thus the longest section)? The videos I've watched on KZbin tend to deal with square or rectangular pieces, so, it is hard to grasp how I should finish such a relative large and "odd shaped" piece like mine. Any further "hints" would be appreciated. Thank you.

[@ernielilienthal8839]

Hey Paul, Thank you for these awesome videos. You have been a tremendous help during my woodworking journey. I am building a pine table. The surface finish is polyurethane and the few knots I have are bleeding through the poly. How do I prevent this in the future and is there anyway to fix this? I already have three coats on. Thank you, Ernie

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Het Ernie. Not sure what you are asking. What do you mean bledding through? Is the poly soaking into the knot? Please clarify a little. thanx paul

[@ernielilienthal8839]

Hey Paul. Wherever there is a knot the poly never dries. It stays tacky. So I assumed that sap was bleeding out of the knot causing the poly to not dry. The last coat I put on was 3 days ago in a heated shop and the knots are tacky but everything else is dry. Again thank you for all that you do.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Silly question but is the wood your using kiln dried or construction lumber?@@ernielilienthal8839

[@ernielilienthal8839]

Supposed to be kiln dried.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Kbnots can bleed but if the wood is dried it should not. Polyurethane is a surface coating and while some does soak into pores and between wood fibers the vast majority lays on top. Knots have no pores sothe finish just lays on top but it should dry anyway. Try using a blow drier to see if you can speed it up. Start at a very low volume so as not to create waves. As I'm writing I am looking at my live edge desk that's loaded with knots and are just fine under the polyurethane. Let me know please. best . . . paul@@ernielilienthal8839

[@patriciadenny2357]

Did you at one time recommend to thin poly 1 part poly to 2 parts MS do that for 2 costs and then the 3rd and so on costs are 2 parts poly to one part MS? I see you say 3 parts poly to 2 MS. Why did you change?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hi Patricia. I never recommended anything but 3 parts poly to 1 part mineral spirits for brushing on. I do have a video for making a wipe on but that's one part poly to one part mineral spirits. Sorry. best . . . paul

[@patriciadenny2357]

@@paulsDIYsolutions thanks for your reply. I am wiping it on.

[@Goyarango]

Paul: Please I need your advise. I have a Chess board that I want to recover. The chess design is made with wood veneers.I already have sanded it. My doubt is with what material could I finish it? Thanks🌿

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Gloria. I would use an oil based polyurethane. Thinned 3:1and brushed on. Three coats would assure durability and protection. For details check out Bubble-Free Polyurethane Application Technique. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jpCqiIuZrsmoa80 best . . . paul

[@Goyarango]

Thanks!!! I will send you a picture if my small project.♟️

[@Goyarango]

Of my small project.

[@jimstools3937]

PAUL You Are The Master Of Your Craft. You Learn So Much. Don’t Stop Thank You For Sharing.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Thanx Jim. Thanx for your kind words. Will you share that sentiment with my wife? )Never mind she'd just think I paid you.) Anyway thanx for watching and your feedback. Glad I could be a small part of your crafting. best . . . paul

[@jimstools3937]

Paul . No Problem. Tell Your Bride You Should Be Happy To Have Paul In Your Life. OOH. If I Have Any Questions, I’m Getting In Touch Again.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

@@jimstools3937 I tell her that every day. Does no good.

[@lololine]

Awesome tips thank you sir!!!!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Thanx lololine. Appreciate your feedback. best . . . paul

[@jeffturnbull8452]

Great videos. Thank you.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Jeff. Your welcome. Gald to be a small part of the journey. best . . . paul

[@GamageHemaratne]

learned a lot ...Thanks

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey User. You're very welcome. Glad to be a small part of your journey. Thanx for watching and your feedback. best . . . paul

[@MelissaZimmermann-sr7nh]

Hi Paul- Thank you so much for these incredible videos you are now my woodworking guru🙏 So my husband built us a gorgeous red oak dining room table that I decided to finish with very basic finishing skills in a shocking turn of events I messed it up! My last step was to remove the two coats of water based poly, stain and condition with a random orbital but I’m now wondering if that is ok or do I need ti go through the process of chemically removing the poly? The stain had been on for about 4 days and the poly had only been on for 2 days. I of course am going to work from 80 to 120 to 180 before reapplying wood conditioner and following every single video you have step by step I just need to make sure I get this table back in as good a natural state as I can do to the job correctly this time. Thank you a million times for your invaluable videos!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Melissa. If you are planning on sanding you should wait 2-3 weeks. That's how long it takes polyurethane to dry all the way through. If you don;'t your sandpaper will just keep guming up with the unhardened polyurethane. You can use a stripper immediately and be a little more certain that you are getting all the poly off. Any remaining polyurethane will interfere with absorption of new stain. Speaking of stain I would not use a conditioner on oak (it doesn't need it and will reduce the coloration of the stain). Once stripped or sanded wash it down, let the wood dry thoroughly, sand with a 180 and then you can reapply your stain. Let the stain dry at least overnight then apply your polyurethane I recommend oil based. Lastly be sure to finish the underside as well to assure equal seasonal expansion and contraction (avoids chipping and cracking). In fact always finish the bottom first as it shows me how the wood is reacting to stains and finishes. I'm here if you have other concerns. best . . . paul

[@MelissaZimmermann-sr7nh]

Paul…I am speechless thank you so much! I have been almost in tears trying to figure out how in the world I am going to fix this table, I have small kids and very limited time and can’t just build another table. I REALLY want to avoid the chemical stripper if possible because I am working on this thing in my garage (only space I have) which is attached to my kitchen…I have already done a decent amount of sanding with 80 to remove the poly and stain can I just wait 2 weeks and keep going at it with the orbital with 80 grit? Also I have already applied 2 coats of water poly to the sides, legs and underside and since I don’t care about the brush strokes in those areas I’m hoping to not have to strip the whole table but do plan on (after watching your poly finish videos) to use oil poly on the top will it be ok to have two different types of poly on the table (I know the color will not match perfectly but that’s ok…since this is Oak I have varying colors through the natural wood anyways). Thank you so so so much!

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Mlissa. Oil over water is okay as long as the water based poly is dry. Just do a light sand with 220 snadpaper and go for it. Be sure that in your prep sanding you do something like 80 grit, follwed by 120 followed by a 150 and then stopping at 180. You can then danmpen the wood and resand lightly with a 180 grit. Once dry you can reapply your stain. Once the stain is applied skip the sanding and apply your fisrt coat. Let dry overnight and sand very lightly with a 220 grit bwteen future coats. best . . . paul @@MelissaZimmermann-sr7nh

[@MelissaZimmermann-sr7nh]

Thank you again a million times! Should I wait the 2 full weeks for the poly to cure before trying to remove the what’s left of it on the tabletop with sanding? Ok to use 220 between poly coats even though I have stain below it? I believe in your video you mentioned only using a brown paper bag. You are truly a life saver

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Good Morning Meliisa. AS long as you have the bulk of the polyurethane already off I would continue sanding to get to raw wood. Do not sand after staining and before you first coat. Snading between coats does a couple things: it removes any dust nibs that settle while drying overnight and it scratches the surface a litlle so the next coat of polyurethane have something to grab onto. After the first coat you should do a VERY, VERY LIGHT sanding with a 220. Then between each coat continue with 220. Sometimes the first coat (this only happens with the first coat) of polyurethane it may appear as though there are bare spots but it'sthere it just soaked in. Try to avoid sanding these areas as we don't want to remove any stain. Hope this makes sense.@@MelissaZimmermann-sr7nh

[@MURPHxiii]

Did you ever find a suitable replacement for the chemical stripper you used to use?

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Jasmine. Yeah they are getting better. I've been using Jasco. For the projects I've had it's actually been good. best . . . paul

[@MURPHxiii]

@@paulsDIYsolutions then that is the one I will buy, thank you! Love your content 🖤

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

@@MURPHxiii Thanx Jasmine. What are you stripping?

[@MURPHxiii]

@@paulsDIYsolutions an antique dining table. I have slowly sanded it over the past 6 months. There are places that have a lot of detail carving. I initially planned on stripping it and I bought citristrip. It was a time consuming, ineffective mess. That’s when I just accepted I would need to sand the finish. Recently I stumbled upon your stripping video from a few years back and I got SO excited and I thought, this will help me finish this thing up, just to hop online and find out I’ve missed the boat on effective strippers 🤦🏻‍♀️ so here I am. Whatever finish was on this thing has been nothing short of a nightmare, which is probably why I seem to begrudgingly chip away at this project.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

@@MURPHxiii Paint is tough to get off in detailed areas even with the old strippers. That chest you saw in the video took hours with a dental tool, stiff nylon brush and an air compresser. I used that Jasco stripper on a varnished table recently and it worked well. I have not used it with paint. Here's the thing though I'm sure your table is worth the effort. Today's furniture is not real wood. Even the veneers used over glued wood and plastic particles (think Ikea) is photo replicas! When you do get all the old paint off message me and I'll talk to you about oiling the wood and finishes.

[@prsjds1290]

More gold 👍🏻 thank you

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Thanx PR

[@prsjds1290]

@@paulsDIYsolutions do you recommend or have you ever used GF finishes gel top coat polyurethane or their enduro grade spray waterbased compared to traditional oil ? I only have experience with regular poly thinned using the same method you use. We really like all other GF stain and milk paint. Thanks

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Sorry, no. @@prsjds1290

[@prsjds1290]

@@paulsDIYsolutions can you recommend a polyurethane. Most all retailers around sell fast drying

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

No probably won't find older slow dry stuff anymore. Manufacturers are being forced to change formulas to comply with EPA regulations. They consider thinnerts and carriers volitile so things dry faster. I tend to buy whatever is on sale. I haven't really noticed a big difference in brands. @@prsjds1290