Perfect Coverstitch Hemming: 7 Tips That Makes A Huge Difference

Want to learn the best way to hem on a coverstitch? Without skipped stitches and a perfectly shaped hem. Then follow this easy step-by-step tutorial.
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1. Prepare for hemming
Make sure the edges of the fabric are evenly cut. I prefer to use a rotary cutter when cutting since it makes it so much easier to get those edges even.
To make hemming easier over bulky seams, clip the side seams at the fold and lay the clipped seam in the opposite direction. Just make sure that the cut is very small and that the seam you are using is sturdy enough to withstand a little clip.
2. FOLD THE HEM
On materials that can take a little heat, ironing the fold is recommended as it makes hemming easier.
Tips for keeping the fold in place
● Don’t over-pin when coverstitching, just add a few and remove them before you’ll get too close to the machine.
● Wonder clips (pictured above) are another option.
● You can also hand-baste the hem using large and loose stitches.
● With practice, you’ll likely be able to hem using just your fingers to keep the fold even.
3. START SEWING
Always begin at the back of the garment, just after the side seam. Pull all the threads back and to the left before you start sewing to make sure they don’t get snagged once you start sewing.
● Use a seam guide for an even hem if your machine lacks a built-in ruler.
● You can also use a piece of Lego attached with some sticky pads/Blu Tack to help you sew straighter.
● Another tip is to gently guide the fabric, but do not pull, to make sure it is evenly fed to avoid twisted seams.
4.SEWING OVER BUMPY SEAMS
If the surface is bumpy and the presser foot is tilted upwards or down, such as when stitching over a seam allowance, the feeding will suffer and the machine will have a harder time forming even stitches. That is why I recommend folding the seam allowance in opposite direction before sewing.
If the machine still struggles try to insert a
Insert a hump-jumper (height compensation tool) under the presser foot to level it when sewing over bulky seams.
Keep the hump-jumper in place until you´ve reached the end of the bump. Then remove it and keep sewing
You can also try to temporary increase the differential feed and/or the stitch length and see if this improves the feeding.
5. FINISH THE SEAM
If you are sewing on the round, sew over the beginning stitches for a couple of centimetres (an inch or less).
To secure, the pull method is usually the best way to secure a coverstitch seam.
1● If hemming on the round, pull the needle threads apart before overlapping
2 ● Overlap the stitches for about 2 cm (slightly less than an inch)
3 ● Sew the last stitch using the handwheel and then stop at the highest needlepoint.
4 ● Lift the presser foot
5 ● Use a crochet hook, an awl or tweezers to pull the needle thread towards you
6 ● Clip the threads
7 ● Grab the fabric but do not pinch the threads
8● Pull the fabric diagonally towards the back and to the left
This will pull the needle threads to the reverse side and secure the stitch.
9 ● For extra safety tie another knot on the reverse side to make sure the seam is 100% secured and will hold up over time
10 ● Trim away all the threads
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[@Thelaststitch]

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[@makingitthrough190]

The quality of that video is just amazing. You have obviously invested in some really high quality video recording equipment. Such clear instructions. I don’t even have a cover stitch machine but definitely want one!

[@xyzand890]

This is exactly what everyone needs about coverstitching! Thank yoy for showing the stitching up close, how to properly use it and how to tie iff when done. Thank you for not adding a 10 minute pointless why we need it at the start!!!!

[@SuperPixelated]

Such a great video thank you Johanna. I had been using a coverstitch machine for a while, and with all its challenges before I found your book, which is a must for anyone with a coverstitch machine.

[@cecilianilsson1594]

As always - lots of useful tips!

[@elizabethrowe7262]

Good info and thanks for sharing!

[@lindabridges445]

Thank for the refreshing this method.

[@dharmert6487]

Great video. Love your book. It helped me alot.

[@kathyshane159]

I always wondered how a cover stitch machine worked! Thank you for this demonstration!

[@carolynrockafellow417]

This video is just what I needed. Thank you for sharing this video.

[@rambolinda]

The hump jumper is a genius idea!!!! Thank you!!!!

[@tex1622]

Thank you for this. I'm hungry for all coverstitch tutorials, but there is so little out there! Indeed, I bought a coverstitch machine, and it bloody terrifies me! 😂

[@sadiefrye]

I can't believe you posted this on the very day I'm finally going to try the cover stitch that was gifted to me. I'd already bought your book, but this was perfect timing to have a few hints!

[@rdfjfgjyfdhfghy67456]

I click every one of your videos❤ love the coverstitch content❤

[@tonywilliams4223]

Thank you

[@meadowmade]

Thank you🎉🎉

[@karenguzzi748]

I often hem using my cover stitch machine and I like to leave the fabric being folded up an inch more than what I want the hem to be. Fabric seems to feed more evenly. After stitching, I trim away the excess fabric with duckbill scissors.

[@lisaboglioli1573]

Great tips because the book that came with my model doesn’t mention any of these things so THANKS! 😊

[@paulabrown8919]

Thank you so much! Very timely information for me. I downloaded your coverstitch book in the past and must review it again as I have a new Janome Coverstitch 2000 and am almost afraid to use it.

[@susieweir2959]

Great video! I have a love/hate relationship with my coverstitch machine….

[@physioontheriver7325]

Thanks Johanna. I’ve missed your videos - hope all is well with you. Diana

[@ArchieB133]

Thank you so much for this, it’s so useful and so clear, really appreciate the time and effort you put in to all your tutorials. Any chance you could point me in the right direction for the longer length wonderclips, can’t seem to find them anywhere, thanks

[@myralorraine]

Great video Johanna! I have your cover stitch book and love it, it’s helped me so much in using my cover stitch machine!

[@WeeLM]

Great videos I'm learning so much from you thank you so much! Is it possible to hem stretch denim on a coverstitch machine (skinny jeans for example)? Does chain stitch stretch enough for this or should I use the normal cover stitch you are using in the video? Thanks again!

[@Yorkygirl59]

I've been watching your videos in preparation for buying a coverstitch machine and I've finally done it, with the purchase of a second-hand Coverpro 2000cpx. The seller also included a copy of your book, so really happy with that, as it was on my purchase list. I've managed to re-thread and remove a needle to sew a two needle complete hem in the round on a dress I've shortened into a top - success. However, I'm not sure if the looper thread is right. The tension on the garment looks fine, but when I cut the top threads and tug the garment to pull the needle threads to the back and snip the looper thread, it seems to be quite hard to pull and puckers up. If I pull the looper thread on its own (without any work in the machine) it feels very stiff, but pulling on various points along its length between the threading points it seems fine. Is it supposed to be like that? The videos I've seen suggest it's quite easy to pull the work out. The needle threads are very easy to pull through. The machine had only been used three times, and the seller had it serviced as she had not used it for about a year, so it's been checked over and passed all tests.

[@robinbrown106]

How do you pivot with a coverstitch? I need to stitch up a split hem, then across, then down the other side!

[@michellepark778]

underbar, fantastisk