Perfect Mash Temperature: RIMS Tube

[@michaeljames3509]

I enjoyed watching the video, GREAT JOB!!! Alpha is responsible for liquefaction and saccharification. When Alpha liquefies amylose, two chains form. The reducing end chain contains sweet tasting, nonfermenting, types of sugar. The nonreducing end is simple sugar, glucose. Glucose is responsible for primary fermentation. A high temperature rest produces sweet tasting beer, low in alcohol. The sugar responsible for body and mouthfeel in beer are tasteless and nonfermenting, types that form during dextrinization and gelatinization. The steps are skipped in the infusion brewing method. The only time body and mouthfeel develops in home brew happens when amylose contains a 1-6 link in the starch chain, which is extremely, rare. The heat resistant, complex starch that contains A and B limit dextrin, which are tasteless, nonfermenting, types of sugar responsible for body and mouthfeel in beer is thrown out with the spent mash because the temperatures in the home brew method aren't high enough to cause the starch to burst and enter into the liquid before Alpha denatures. Mash is boiled as in the decoction method to take advantage of amylopectin, which is the richest starch in malt. When Alpha liquefies amylopectin, dextrinization and gelatinization occurs. When the steps are skipped beer overly, dries and thins during fermentation and conditioning. A grain distiller uses a rest temperature of 65, 66C because Alpha releases the highest amount of glucose, as possible, within an hour. The more glucose, the more alcohol. The high temperature rapidly denatures Beta because the enzyme isn't needed for making whiskey and it gets in the way by increasing the length of the fermentation cycle. After Beta denatures, Alpha continues with liquefaction and saccharification until denaturing. Conversion occurs, within a reasonable time period, at 60C. Optimum temperature for Beta is 63C for 20 to 30 minutes, depending on mash thickness. Mash pH should be adjusted to be optimum for Beta at the optimum temperature. Beta converts the glucose that Alpha releases from amylose, into complex types of sugar, maltose and maltotriose, which are the types of sugar that produces ale and lager. When conversion occurs, secondary fermentation takes place, which is a step skipped in home brewing because depending on the modification of high modified, malt, conversion won't fully occur without the addition of an Alpha-Beta enzyme mixture. When conversion occurs, beer doesn't need sugar or CO2 injection to carbonate, beer naturally carbonates during conditioning, due to maltotriose. Under modified, low protein, malt is used for producing ale and lager because the malt is richer in enzyme content than high modified, malt and the malt contains more sugar. Modification and protein content are listed on the malt spec sheet that comes with each bag of malt. A malt spec sheet is used for determining the quality of malt, before the malt is purchased. Weyermann floor malt and Gladfield's American Malt are under modified. Click on Gladfield's website and find American Malt, the spec sheet for the malt is on the page. Part way down on the spec sheet, under the EBC column, is Kolbach. The Kolbach number determines modification, SNR (IOB) and S/T (MBAC) determines modification, as well. Malt, 40 Kolbach and lower is under modified. Malt should contain less than 10 percent protein content. The higher the Kolbach number and protein content, the less suitable the malt is for producing ale and lager. High modified, malt can be upwards of 52 Kolbach and contain 16 percent protein. The malt is more suitable for producing whiskey where only Alpha, a single temperature rest and glucose are needed. Depending on the length of time that the extract is recirculated, the process can cause over sparging. Tannin extraction is a time, temperature, pH thing. A coil installed in the tun with boiling water circulated through the coil or a jacketed tun is a better choice, along with a mash stirrer. Skim off hot break as it forms and continue to remove hot break until it drastically reduces, before adding hops. Less hops are needed because the extract is cleaner. Skim off second break, as well. To learn how ale and lager are produced, DeClerks books are good. Wulf's 1958 and 1959 journals are the best, but they are very, expensive. Abstracts from the IOB are free, online and there's interesting info about malt, yeast and fermentation in the abstracts. Their journals have to be purchased. The IOB made malt, modern in the 19th century. The IOB invented the malt spec sheet, which eliminated testing bunches of malt in the brewery to find a batch of brewers grade, malt.

[@JasonAlexzander1q47]

Say a distiller uses corn to get starches. They still need beta amylase from barely to convert it into sugar? Am I missing something?

[@keithdelahunt3778]

Hi guys, I'm brewing over in Scotland and doing batches of around 130 lt (34 US Gallons if that helps). So my mash tun starts with about 65 lt (2.5l per kg). I recirculate into my boil kettle and control and add heat there while it pumps back up into the mash tun. I'm heating guess about 20 lt of mash water using a 3kw element. Seems to work well. Always amazes me how long it takes to move up a heat step say 62°c to 72° c. Sorry for the metric guys I can't do imperial.

[@paulaxton72]

Can you give us a parts list for the RIMS tube?? 🙏

[@firmbutton6485]

I use a flow detector to ensure rims element only heats when there is sufficient flow. My pc performs the PID function and controls the element via a Solod state relay, flickering on for literally milliseconds.

[@paulschrader5775]

I am using a induction heater an a heavy pot for 10gallon with 3.6 KW like an industrial stove

[@Leadership_matters]

I think the element runs at lower wattage if you use a pid controller. I use my pid to heat my strike water, add my grain, set my mash temp and my element never runs at full 1650 watts during the mash. Never had a scorched wort.

[@Leadership_matters]

If you use a straight temp controller, it is just on or off

[@brewer194]

where can I find that RIMS setup, I need it all

[@HopKillerBrewery]

BrewHardware sells the whole kit

[@brewer194]

@@HopKillerBrewery thanks

[@brewer194]

It seems there's 2 brew hardware's, Do you have a phone # for me to call them?

[@OldNorsebrewery]

Tried that years ago. Even with just 1000 watt I got burned mash. HERMS is my preference

[@JasonAlexzander1q47]

Operator error

[@OldNorsebrewery]

@@JasonAlexzander1q47 didn't like the concept. love HERMS. even with a stuck mash there are no mash burned

[@JasonAlexzander1q47]

Is the RIMS the only thing heating the wort? If so how long does it take to get all of the wort up to temp??????

[@HopKillerBrewery]

I heat the strike water in my HLT was had a natural gas burner, then the heating element controls the mash temp via the RIMS controller

[@paulaxton72]

A low density heat element might help.

[@zzing]

How do you mount the tube?

[@HopKillerBrewery]

The Triclamps it came with has a bolts welded to the side of it so I screwed a wooded 2x4 to the wall and then used angle iron with holes to thread a nut onto those bolts

[@JasonAlexzander1q47]

Does this replace vorlaufing or sparging?

[@HopKillerBrewery]

Vorlaufing, yes. It doesn’t replace sparging though!

[@paulaxton72]

@@HopKillerBrewery hey 👋 is there any way you could give us a parts list for the tube??

[@JasonAlexzander1q47]

Do you need a controller for a RIMS?

[@HopKillerBrewery]

Yes you do!

[@jasonung76]

Hi