Persolaise Love At First Scent 23 - live perfume reviews - Guerlain Anniversary - 190 Years

Episode 23 of Love At First Scent - celebrating the 190th anniversary of Guerlain
This was a Facebook Live broadcast streamed on Friday 30th November 2018. Unscripted. Unedited. Unrehearsed.
The perfumes covered in this episode were:
Vol de Nuit extrait (at the start of the video)
Vol de Nuit Evasion (at the 26:00 minute mark)
Shalimar Eau Legere (at the 38:00 minute mark)
Iris Ganache (at the 55:00 minute mark)
Habit Rouge edt (at the 1:00:00 minute mark)
and a very special Apres L’Ondee extrait (at the 1:12:00 minute mark)
And, as always, here's the blotter update:
the VdN extrait is now in a dense, almost vegetal moss mode; still intriguing and other-worldly
VdN Evasion has turned out to be the most surprising; I thought I knew the scent well, but today, it's presented dark, sandalwoody aspects I hadn't really noticed before; mainly synthetic, I'd say, but expertly dosed
Shalimar Legere reminded me of Habit Rouge for a moment, which goes to show that HR really is a lighter, more citrusy Shalimar; but anyway, it is now dryer and a touch less approachable
Iris Ganache has gone into a carb hangover: sweet, powdery vanilla base
Habit Rouge remains perfect; what a wondrous piece of work; so finely tuned
AND
the Apres L'Ondee extrait is still playing that delightful tango between the iris and the violet; heavenly!
Here are links to some of the articles I mentioned:
Thierry Wasser on Habit Rouge: persolaise.blog...
Thierry Wasser on reformulation: persolaise.blog...
Thierry Wasser on Nahema persolaise.blog...
[Samples of the 1st, 4th and 6th scents on the list provided by Guerlain; the remainder are from my personal collection.]
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Persolaise is not affiliated in any way to any brands, wholesalers, retailers or organisations involved with the fragrance industry. All reviews are entirely independent. Content is never 'sponsored' by any external agencies. Some reviews are based on samples provided by brands; others are based on samples obtained by the author. This has no bearing on the content of the reviews.
Copyright © 2018 Dariush Alavi and Parfums Persolaise. All rights reserved.

[@FabiWe91]

Thank you so much for this incredible video and for featuring my favourite fragrances ever, Habit Rouge and Vol de Nuit. I discovered VdN this year and I love it to pieces. The contrast of green galbanum and oakmoss and its vanilla-ry warmth is just magical. Since I can't afford the extrait, I bought an old and empty bottle of the Eau de Toilette (it used to be the same propeller-bottle, just bigger) and a reasonably cheap tester of the extrait on Ebay. (The tester was a nondescript plain bottle that the seller had possibly stolen - I can't think of another way to get your hands on one) Sprayed the content of the tester into my empty bottle and enjoyed the beautiful view and smell ever since.

[@Persolaise]

Thanks so much for watching... and I'm so pleased you're an HR fan as well. Isn't VdN gorgeous? So perfectly balanced.

[@tomokococo3235]

Vol de Nuit is understood by the heart.It’s a very poetic perfume ❤

[@Persolaise]

Totally agree. Thanks for watching.

[@CapMIam]

New subscriber and am utterly in awe of your ‘stage presence’ and ease in public speaking and interacting with your community. A few blind buys all happened to be Guerlin and have no regrets, Habit Rouge EDP is my top 3 scents (so far). New to the Frag community, all of 2 months and have amassed 30+ in my scent arsenal and adoring every minute of it. Thank you for all that you do. Hoping to catch a live session soon. All the best for 2022.

[@Persolaise]

Thanks very much, but if I have any stage presence, I’m sure it must be because everyone watching makes it so easy to feel relaxed. Welcome to the scented world, by the way. Enjoy the journey.

[@s0ondae]

Thank you for featuring my favorite perfume house! I'm incredibly envious of your Apres l'onde! FYI, Iris Ganache is now available in the fountains in Parisian boutiques. :)

[@Persolaise]

Oh, is it? I didn't know. Thanks so much for the info. And for watching :-)

[@lizseville1]

Missed this live. I adore Vol de Nuit and Jicky. I can still get the Vol de Nuit propeller bottle from Escentual. Galbunum - in Vent Vert too - almost makes you hungry as if you are scrabbling through the forest.

[@Persolaise]

Never mind, Liz, at least you get to see the recording. Thanks very much indeed for watching. Wonderful description of galbanum: there is something of the forager about it.

[@marinara5000]

Dear Persolaise... As a lover of history, theology, parfumerie, etc... I recently discovered that Exuperie crashed his plane in the Egyptian desert by the Natron valley (relevant to embalming!) And was rescued by Coptic monks (my peeps!!!) This was accounted in Sand, Wind, and Stars which preceded The Little Prince. (What the British did to the father of the monastery in order to steal the ancient transcripts will sadden but not surprise you...) Anyhow, I am so passionate about this tale and the house of Guerlain. I just bought Vol de Nuit (after watching the impeccable, "my world of fragrance" lady.) but had no idea it was an Exuperie reference! What an emotional ride...

[@Persolaise]

Yes - it’s a direct reference. And a beautiful scent, of course. Thanks for watching.

[@Mikeaveli2682]

Great video. This is my favorite perfume house. Among my favorites are Habit Rouge (EDT & EDP), Heritage (EDT), Mitsuoko (EDP), Shalimar (EDP), and Vetiver. So many incredible scents and a really beautiful store in Paris. When I was there this summer, I got a booklet commemorating their 190th anniversary. I only wish they were more readily available in the United States.

[@Persolaise]

Thanks very much indeed. Yes, availability outside France can be an issue, which is a real shame. I'm pleased you're also an HR fan!

[@conniemckenney]

I bought a Vol de Nuit extrait because of this review (already had the EDT) but it is SEALED and I'm too scared to cut the strings that ties the stopper on. So now I'm just staring at it 😬

[@Persolaise]

Oh my goodness, I can relate. I’m doing the exact same thing with a L’Heure Bleue.

[@angelajuneholmes4933]

I also have Apres Londree and love it’s stunning chilly beauty . You are indeed a lucky boy with the extrait treasure . Thank you so much for sharing .

[@Persolaise]

Yes, I love that bottle.

[@cubbylevi1764]

I so enjoy your channel. I adore Mitsouko edp (there are just no words…💚) and am loving Herba Fresca too.

[@Persolaise]

That's wonderful. I adore them both.

[@angelajuneholmes4933]

It’s such a shame that I hadn’t discovered your beyond fabulous channel before you did this wonderful Guerlain episode as I would have been commenting up a storm and have the excitement of a Live . I own and love Vol de Nuit and find it exciting and yet hard to pin down. Jicky I have and like but took a while to enjoy the dirtier notes . I’m mad about L’heure Bleue and love Mitsouko and Shalimar almost as much . I understand that LB isn’t a favourable of your’s and wonder why ? . My Chamade 2017 edt has arrived today and it’s Love 😍. Had a great Shalimar flanker and it was initial and that was stunning. I’m awaiting Nahama ‘ Habit rouge and Lui and would have loved Iris Ganache I know . All the newer ones i bypassed though I did have a couple of la petite robe noirs and Mon Guerlain and they are liked but not loved and adored . My only hate is Samsara but it’s because I struggle with sandalwood. Thank you again for your knowledge and Guerlain love .

[@Persolaise]

Not at all. Thank YOU for watching 😊

[@seilanemsei]

Jicky is wonderful. I love to spray it when I need to perk up, as it its opening is bubbly and bright. The dry down is very conforting and calming though. Perfect for bedtime. Yes it has a strong civet note which I can pick up around 30 mins after I sprayed it but it lasts a few minutes. Followed by a warmer citric note. Jicky has many surprises in store and takes me in a kourney for about 6 hours and the projection is not bad.

[@seilanemsei]

Oops typo alert - journey, not kourney

[@Persolaise]

Yes, couldn't agree more: a scent that always offers something interesting. Thank you so much for watching and taking the time to leave a comment :-)

[@jackied5866]

I so enjoyed this video! I just found your channel and blog. I've been curious about perfume for a while but just recently started getting into it since COVID (odd timing but still I think that says something about the way a scent can make people happy during hard times). I read about L'Heure Bleue in a book once years ago and ever since then I've been fascinated with Guerlain. I finally got the chance to smell it (and buy it!) at the boutique in the Bellagio in Las Vegas (just before COVID). Now I want to smell Vol de Nuit and Apres L'Ondee. And maybe Habit Rouge too for fun. Thanks again from North Carolina, USA!

[@Persolaise]

Thanks very much for watching and for the wonderful comment. Don’t wait too long before trying to get Après L’Ondee: it’s proving harder and harder to find.

[@venusavenue1722]

Your name is french, your english is brit and your look is greek! Isn't that at least amazing?! And your french pronuntiation is trés trés chic! 🥰 Love your reviews! 💜I actually went blind for Blousy Miller H. I hope I won't come back here with stones in my pockets 🙈🤪😋

[@Persolaise]

😊 Thanks very much indeed. Just think of me as the International Man Of Mystery.

[@venusavenue1722]

@@Persolaise Yes, sir! 😊You are amazing! Such a good nose and such a good storyteller :) Can't wait for the next one 💜

[@inthebellyofmoby]

I always associate VDN with travel not because its aroma smells like the interior of a aeroplane, or tarmac, or fuel, or a travel lounge but because of its expansive, edge-less form. It gives the fragrance the ability to set up a dreamy, non-literal world. It's not air travel as much as it is an internal journey. The Ad featuring a night vista glimpsed from a plane wing communicates this inner world/outer world quite well. I wore it as I relocated to the UK and I will always associate it with a particular frame of mind as I was suspended in the air and the world turned underneath my plane. Having said that, Roudnitska referred to it as an,"airy" creation and the notes do whoosh by like clouds striking a wing. The current extrait is rendered brighter, drier and greener (thanks to some new narcissus absolute as opposed to the base used for decades) whereas it used to be khaki-coloured and more staid. It's one of my drops of choice and something that I will always reach for.

[@Persolaise]

Wonderful description, thank you. I shall have to re-read it the next time I wear the scent.

[@kathrynimhoff344]

So sorry I missed this. I am a serious Guerlain collector in New Mexico.

[@Persolaise]

Better late than never :-) Thanks for taking the time to write. Do you have a favourite Guerlain?

[@kathrynimhoff344]

@@Persolaise , Absolutely adore Guet Apens. Also mad for Apres L'Ondee vintage extrait.

[@Persolaise]

@@kathrynimhoff344 Oh wow, then this video was made for you :-)

[@lizseville1]

Very special video - thank you 🙏

[@Persolaise]

Thanks so much for those kind words.

[@Once_WuZi]

Great video looking back over some great scents. Given the rarity/practical impossibility of finding Iris Ganache are there any fragrances you would recommend that you find to have a similar style and scent profile? :)

[@Persolaise]

Oh dear: a gourmand iris. I’ll need to give that some thought. But isn’t Iris Ganache available direct from Guerlain?

[@raza6626]

Oh no, I missed this one live as well. I have been trying to catch your last few episodes live and even created a facebook account for that but sadly I could not, as I was either at work or outside or had guests over, etc etc. You wanted a hello from Dubai and I could not deliver. Sorry about that. So cool that you found Shalimar Legere at the Sharjah souq. Sharjah is my place of birth and I have been going to that souq since childhood. Long time residents here call it the 'Engine Market' because of it's shape. Well, I have only been in this fragrance hobby for a few years now and I don't think I'll find anything obscure at any souq in this day and age. I was last there a few months ago and it's mostly full of jewelry shops and a couple of perfume kiosks that sell the mainstream items at grey market prices. But you can still find some classics like Cacharel PH and couple of old Lagerfelds, etc. Even much older batches of mainstream releases. I remember picking up Burberry London a couple of years ago and it was the very first batch (2006). My experience with Guerlain is minimum, if not zero. In fact I'm getting my first Guerlain which will be Habit Rouge EDT in 200 ml. I wanted to ask you if the silver cap version (which you have) and the new red cap version have any differences in scent? I found a good deal at a discounter here for HR, EDT, 200 ml, selling for $48. But if the silver cap version is much better then I'll try to find that instead. After HR I will pick up Heritage and one of the Vetiver's. The original Vetiver of the current formulation hardly lasts on me, while the Extreme version performs a lot better. A couple of months ago I picked up Declaration and Encre Noire and I feel these two are some of my favourites. As you may have heard, it rained once in Dubai this season, a few weeks ago. I wore Encre Noire after the rain and it was spectacular! The other day I was lucky to find a great price on Gucci PH II, for just over $50 for 100 ml. It was a blind buy but if I didn't like it I could sell it off. Fortunately, I do like it, a lot! I will keep trying the old souqs for some gems, especially in Bur Dubai. You may know the Ratan's store there. And there is also the old uncle who makes perfume and oils based on popular releases. Khaleej Times did a report on him. Check it out.... kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4ispmN8rdWshtk I apologise for this comment in essay form. I was just making up for not commenting the last few times. If you're ever in town again, I'll be honored to go perfume sniffing with you. Thanks for this Guerlain tribute and all the other reviews here and on your blog.

[@Persolaise]

Raza, what a wonderful, long comment. Thank you :-) Yes, I think most of the gems have disappeared from the souq, but it's still a wonderful place to visit. I lived in Sharjah for many years, so the place holds a lot of nostalgia value. I can't really help with your Habit Rouge question, but I think there are plenty of reliable sources of info/advice online about bottles etc. I'll have to check out your KZbin link. Thanks very much indeed.

[@raza6626]

@@Persolaise Thank you sir!

[@Persolaise]

@@raza6626 Not at all. Thank YOU.

[@angiecox8781]

Truly the first perfume house I fell in love with I was about 17 ( 64 now) and I wrote to them and they sent me sent me a set of cards with with the history of the house. Sadly lost but the richness of Mitsouko was next. Only Balenciaga led me away as Quadrille was so fabulous .

[@Persolaise]

Oh wow, it’s so wonderful that they did that. I bet no brand would do anything similar now. Thanks so much for sharing that story.

[@gazzabethyname]

Guerlain is my favourite house. I love every perfume I have smelled from them. I own 6 or 7 of the mens but I'm really interested in the Aqua Allegoria range.

[@Persolaise]

Ah, wonderful. Athens AAs are great 😊 Many thanks for watching.

[@mysterybeta]

👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Super Fabulous Episode! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Quality presentation! Thank you!

[@Persolaise]

Thank you so much! :-) I'm so pleased you enjoyed it.

[@mortenblad]

My favorite brand. What a beautiful collection. You have a great personality and skills reviewing fragrances. Is your Derby in the bottle bottle? My all time favorite is Habit Rouge extrait. Keep up the excellent reviews!

[@Persolaise]

That’s very kind, Marcus, thank you. And thanks very much for taking the time to write. That Derby is in a bee bottle; sadly, it’s not the original presentation. I adore Habit Rouge as well, but my favourite formulation is the edt.

[@MARAillusion]

Thank you for this amazing, documented, and almost exhaustive video. I must say, I love Shalimar, but I also love my Souffle de Parfum (and sometimes I even prefer it to "the original" since it is more wearable - even in hot weather). And I think it combines nicely with my all-time favorite scent - Clinique Aromatics Elixir. But probably that's just me. Again... Alone... And smelling strange... :)))

[@Persolaise]

That sounds like a pretty good combo, actually. Thanks for watching.

[@seilanemsei]

Samsara is another timeless beauty by Jean Paul Guerlain.

[@Persolaise]

Yes, absolutely. I reviewed it quite recently on Persolaise.com

[@seilanemsei]

+Persolaise Perfumes Thanks. I've just visited your blog for tge 1st time. Impressive! I read the Samsara review. Left a comment too.

[@Persolaise]

@@seilanemsei Thanks very much indeed. I think I just found your comment. It went into Spam!

[@litespeed65]

I recently purchased the current 30ml Extract of Vol de Nuit in this propeller bottle, I had to have one in my collection- so hard to find in Canada. I've heard that vintage bottles with stoppers don't stand the test of time with quality degradation and evaporation, it's just too risky for me. I know of a source (not eBay/Etsy, etc) for the 80th Anniversary- 60 ml bottle with Gold cap/ring, yours for $$ 2200 CAD...

[@Persolaise]

Oh no - I didn’t know that about the propeller bottle. Nothing lasts forever, right? Many thanks for watching.

[@yiwenhuang4481]

Hi! Could you tell me where I could buy VDN extrait. It is really hard to find it in Canada. I will really appreciate your answer.

[@L-Ondee]

OMG what do we have to do so Guerlain brings back Après l'Ondée extrait?

[@Persolaise]

Ummm... pray??!

[@L-Ondee]

@@Persolaise ok

[@LJernegan]

I think I need to start saving for the 200 year celebration. I am sure they will do something beautiful and expensive.

[@Persolaise]

Good idea 😉

[@deborahselincourt8060]

What a fabulous video, Im a bit late to the party.....

[@Persolaise]

Never mind! You're still welcome.

[@R.N.19]

Was your shirt from Ferris Bueller Day Off? You never did say

[@Persolaise]

No, it wasn't. Thanks for watching.

[@R.N.19]

@@Persolaise The mystery continues

[@Persolaise]

@@R.N.19 I've just looked at the video again. That's a shirt that's supposed to be like the costume of the second Doctor from the TV series Doctor Who.

[@R.N.19]

@@Persolaise How British of you😁

[@dmr9767]

Would you buy an old, expensive bottle of Apres L'ondee if you had one of L'Heure Bleue from the same time?

[@Persolaise]

Interesting question. Yes!

[@dmr9767]

@@Persolaise Now I understand your answer. Apres L'ondee is sublime!!

[@angiecox8781]

I adore Vol de Nuit.

[@Persolaise]

Me too 😊

[@snowyskylar8821]

Could a woman wear habit rouge? I just love it...

[@Persolaise]

Absolutely.

[@Curdle7]

Awesome

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for watching.

[@seilanemsei]

"where is London?" Cheeky! Is that what you meant by well chanelled agression? 😤

[@Persolaise]

Ha! No... just badly-channelled cheekiness!

[@seilanemsei]

"Well chanelled agression" lol

[@Persolaise]

Ha ;-)

[@dandarth-kc9cf]

House of Guerlain is owned by aliens. :)) Very mysterious perfumes . I only use Shalimar and i don t want to change this perfume for nothing.

[@Persolaise]

Yes, many of them are thoroughly intriguing. Thanks for watching.

[@ziggymarlowe5654]

💞♥

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for watching.

[@НурлыайымКалдымуратова]

Super

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for watching.

[@handelviola]

Vol de nuit, at least the modern extrait I tried couple of years ago smells like baby dolls head to me.

[@Persolaise]

😆 I can tell you that you’re not the first person to make such an association. Many thanks for watching!

[@handelviola]

Seriously? Wow. This was one of the few classic guerlain that I’m ambivalent to. Mitsouko LHB Shalimar I love right away. And I love green perfume too.

[@Persolaise]

I adore Mistouko and Shalimar 👍

[@toeantjemani]

2024

[@Persolaise]

Thanks very much for watching.

[@toeantjemani]

@@Persolaise you re welcome