Rebuilding the V8 - Final Assembly; 351 Cleveland Part 6

[@jonathanrea4528]

After watching this a thousand times, I'm confident in my own rebuild. Thank you for this

[@mikef.1000]

Nice work, well explained every step of the way 👍

[@Andrew.quigley]

Looking really good. Looking forward to that sweet Cleveland sound.

[@amerrill1988]

Thanks, these helped me a lot with my Pantera. Cheers!

[@alexitattoos]

Hi Peter love the videos you are a perfectionist ...please keep the videos coming...i have been out of the trade for many years.You make me want to get my hands dirty again .....thank you

[@petergoodwin2465]

Very nice work Pete , I love my Mopar V8s but the Cleveland is a real monster . One of the best engines made , the heads flow very well. They have a massive top end and very strong engine. Will build one when I get a Zd for sure . You're going to love this engine Pete . One of the best engines I've ever owned .

[@stephenlane8285]

Mate awesome videos eh. Bout to start a rebuild myself. Excellent walkthrough and some great Tips

[@satamanschmidt3428]

It's funny Peter. When silicone rubber was first invented by Dow Corning (RTV732) we in America called it Silastic just like you do. Now we refer to it as RTV. It's funny how we are separated by a common language as I believe Churchill once remarked.

[@2burning2turning]

Wow that engine blue, looking really good!

[@2BitRustler]

Look forward to every episode. Happy New Year, Mr. Anderson.

[@daveb5016]

A new year and a new video. Perfect.

[@ozjado]

Im watching this again new years day 2021

[@PeterAndersons]

Happy new year!!

[@ozjado]

@@PeterAndersons same to you and your family and thank you for the time you put into these videos, I've had and 351c xy for 21 years I am starting the restoration soonish the engine is already on the stand. If I can pull off a few videos of it along the way I'd love for you to tune in

[@PeterAndersons]

@@ozjado Certainly will, let me know when you're ready, cheers.

[@edwardpertile5515]

Happy New Year Peter, that engine looks beautiful, great job!!!

[@jesusalejandroquintanillao449]

desde Hermosillo Sonora, excelente video, perfecto

[@ShainAndrews]

Was a little surprised to see you installing the thermal vacuum valves. I guess you are going to install the emissions equipment? Otherwise I would leave them all off. Cleans up the engine bay, simplifies tuning (single vacuum source). Enjoy watching your series. Keep up the good work!

[@luketeverino6085]

Sweet man love these

[@MrButtonpresser]

Fantastic. Have a great 2017 Peter!

[@josepenate7367]

good mechanical art.

[@daleyurk4369]

Happy New Year to you and your gang Peter. Thanks as always for the videos!

[@chooseaname50]

i am enjoying your great videos, and a James Boag bear.. happy new year !

[@wareling]

Hi Peter, great videos 👍👍 Busy with my second 351 2v rebuild and things would have been so much easier if I got these vids earlier 😂 That one is still running very well after 4 years now in a XT, and attention to detail and tolerances is key as you mentioned. One question though, what is the name of the stuff you put onto the bolts going into the water pump and plate. To keep it from corroding ? Thanx again for sharing your great knowledge and passion with us. Francois (Johannesburg- South Africa)

[@danonoveh8114]

Noice job mate !!👍

[@TheUlrikkaul]

What a beauty! Happy New Year Pete.

[@michaelkats5720]

Hey mate , when you mentioned to torque bolts to 60 , 80 , 100 . Is that in NM or foot pounds ? Love your videos . Find myself going back and watching them again and again . Cheers

[@toddreimer1158]

Well done and Happy New Year!

[@stephenwright5562]

Great Videos Peter. Happy New Year.

[@ferisbueller23]

Happy new year, great video! Cheers

[@JoshKilen]

nice job.

[@123paulek]

Happy new year Pete and family.

[@NoPaintGarage]

looks great

[@vigilante351]

Happy New Year Peter - hope this year brings many great things for family and hobbies! I didnt see any head gasket goo (Hylomar etc )when you installed gaskets, is it best to leave goo away from the heads surfaces and leave gaskets to dry seal?

[@michaelnewton8830]

happy new year

[@TheMrShinagami]

Your video's are great, I like the way you explain things. I've never seen a spring compressor like that on, Who makes it?

[@PeterAndersons]

Thanks for that... the spring compressor is made by Bluepoint... sold through Snap-On. Cheers

[@dakotaparis5612]

Waited forever for this new video :D keep up the good work. Happy new year

[@jorge699686]

Great video!!! I just got a -73 Torino, what shoul I use, which is better the 351 Cleveland carburetor or a 351 wins or efi

[@Gokizzmass]

you might also want to consider running in the cam with just the outer valve springs in Pete, this is the recommended comp cams procedure & worth the effort. Also, how did the pushrod length check go ?

[@sandocheese45]

Its going great peter. Happy new year !

[@cplogs3828]

Hi Peter is that a crack on the block near the distributor housing at 12.00? Great video thanks!

[@isaacveselin3721]

Hi Pete just noticed you only put silastic around the water jackets of timing cover and water pump, is that all you need. Also what silastic do you recommend and where can I get brush on sealant, could you also use the same for the bolts for water pump, or could I buy gm sealer and use that for both. Thanks

[@PeterAndersons]

Hi Isaac, yes I used silastic around the jackets on the intake and at the front and rear lower edge... I threw the cork end pieces in the bin, quite often on Windsors and FE big blocks they cause the intake to sit a fraction too high thereby leaking where the coolant transfers from the block to the intake. This will always be an issue if there has been machine work done on the block/heads/intake in the past. I always use neautral cure silastic the acetic cure stuff (smells like vinegar) is corrosive on metal. Some people use silastic or Stag for water pump bolts that enter the jackets, I use GM sealer because I'm used to it and have always had success with it... expensive stuff though, at about $40 a small can. Cheers

[@79DJB]

Great work and seasons greetings from Adelaide. Did you thin down the acrylic prior to painting? if so what ratio?

[@Bonanzaking]

Is there much of a difference between the Aussie heads and the American ones? I seem to be finding conflicting info online. So they’re 2V heads? Here they seemed to be referred to as 3V as some middle ground between the 2V and 4V. I found a guy that’s selling a pair but I guess I’m trying to figure out if it’s worth the cost, and compatible with the one I’m working on.

[@Matt-gc3qi]

Awesome absolutely thanks so much for this series really appreciate it go ford glad in didn't have to wait for each one would have killed me! Should have a netflix special!

[@PeterAndersons]

Thanks Matt!

[@jasperpipes4222]

Using an extension on a torque wrench is fine.. It has been proven through multiple tests that it doesn't cause errors.

[@josepenate7367]

oh,and hAppy new year ,mate.

[@keithholden]

Great vid Pete need to do a sump gasket on my 302. The guy I brought the car from had a Holley 670 on the 302 when you started it and stopped it it wouldnt start again. Flooding I think, Also I could smell gas in the oil and the air cleaner and top of carb had black soot. I think it was to big for the car so I put a holley 465 on it. XC Fairmont Wagon. What size do you guys recommend for the carb or pete lol

[@brwlegge]

Happy new year Peter

[@granskare]

I notice you have your tea with milk - I had my first English style tea aboard HMS Eagle when she visited Istanbul in 1958.

[@mikekelly8225]

Hi, do you take into account the head gasket thickness when calculating the compression ratio?

[@HarrySchwandule]

Yes, the diameter matters too, it's supposed to be slightly larger than the cylinder bore.

[@mikegaeta9978]

Hi Peter, Great videos on the 351C rebuild. I watched them all several times as I am rebuilding one now in the US. You are the master as far as I am concerned; not only for the content, but for the way these videos flow. Just awesome! In this video (Part 6) you exam the pushrods for proper length by making two marks before and after tightening the rocker. I am having trouble understanding calculating proper pushrod lenght. I am installing a Comp Cams Thumper, and their resources want me to determine proper length before they will sell me any pushrods. All the YouTune videos for checking length are about solid lifters, and as far as I can tell, don't take into account the hydraulic lifter spring. Do you have any videos or advise on this before I ruin a perfectly good rebuild? Again, your videos are spot on and helped me through the entire process. I can't wait to start it and drop it into my 72 Mustanf convertible. Keep up the good work!

[@gokhanturkyilmaz3443]

hi peter, what brand head bolts are you using?

[@PeterAndersons]

All stock ancillary, rocker cover and sump bolts which were cleaned up and re-plated. Stock head bolts as well as some new ARP ones here and there, cheers.

[@arniedu]

Hi Peter. An off subject question, what brand of lacquer did you use to paint the xc and xw? Regards Peter

[@keitholdbean3173]

Can we see it running ?

[@dandunning4409]

Color looks more like a Chrysler. You need to do that 351C justice and paint it Ford Blue.

[@PeterAndersons]

There are a few variations of Ford Corporate Blue and loads of interpretations of other Ford Blues from various paint manufacturers. This model car used a colour quite similar to what you see it painted in.

[@BFRPetrucci]

When you screw in the oil pickup tube, how tight do you get it?

[@7071t6]

Hi Peter the water exit pipe to put in at the 28: 40 mark ,how do you know how far down you need to put it in, because in my Ford XD 302, that pipe was rusted out to the point i had to get the rest of the pipe out and then just by chance the normal water piping use in homes was the same size so i cut about 3 inches or 4 off and then banged that in so the water pumps water pressure would allow water to come out from the block, but i think if you put it down to mauch the water will not flow properly ? Anyway drove the car to perth in 50 to 40+ degree C days and got very hot ieL the Temp gauge went all the way upto the end off hot, but still drove it and the engine was hot, so when i had the chance to let the engine and radiator cool down flushed all the old water out of it and put in new water and coolant and did not have a issue at all after that even in 40+ degree days and none stop driving along the nullarbor straight ?

[@PeterAndersons]

Hello mate, I took note of how deep the hole on the block was (you can use anything small and thin) and knocked the brass union in to that depth. New unions are available at Bursons. It's a very common issue with these engines. Cheers

[@humblecreation8947]

Peter I'm looking into rebuilding a 351 Cleveland and I'm putting it in a 83 f100. Do you have any issues I need to look out for? Besides the accessory brackets.

[@leecroxton4954]

What cam did you use and does it have a nice lope to it?

[@paulmacca3066]

Wait till 2020 mate, now that's a bad year.

[@robertdavis6708]

I can't believe you painted that engine prior to a primer finish. Always use an etching primer before the finish coat. The etching primer fills in the porosity of the castings and gives the top coat an avenue to adhere to. Makes the top coat butter smooth. Sir, you build an excellent engine if I may say so.

[@Gokizzmass]

single groove valves & locks as previously suggested ????

[@raincoast2396]

When installing the frost plugs, put them in some dry ice for 5 minutes then insert them. Eazy peazy. No more whacking them in and distorting the fit.

[@Gokizzmass]

no one uses those crappy cork manifold gaskets anymore pete, even edelbrock tell you to use a fat bead of silicone front & back. the cork ones will weep, esp at the back, theyre pricks of things.

[@workshop3757]

I though you would use screw in rocker studs and guide plates.

[@NoFNclue]

This thing is going to purr like a kitten........ (Ô¿Ô)

[@dandunning4409]

Well here in the US there is only 1 color for a Ford engine. Well let me correct myself a little. The older Ford engines were only the dark ford blue. Most of the newer ones are black. But either way I prefer the dark ford blue with a little chrome. Keep up the great work on those 351 Clevelands they are very hard to find in the USA these days.

[@philr300]

What Luke Teverino said.... :-)

[@nathanpitman4547]

probably been said.....would of loved to seen the full head build....lashing and all...yeah...a bit of a masochist ....lol. thanks for the info though...you sound like you are/were a great teacher, would of loved to have been able to pick your brain in class. im 40(ish) now...but yeah...long story. Just now learning all this fun stuff...gotta love the internet. Always worked on my own vehicles, but just never dove as far as engines..and stuff. Did work a year or so doing bodywork, long enough to know I dont like it...lol. Engine work looks fun...vintage stuff is cool, but I imagine that newer computer controlled stuff is a bit different...cam/crank sensors, etc, etc....but the basics should be the same right? regardless....thanks a ton for your time!!!!

[@beverleybailey429]

canford top is wider then botem

[@sandocheese45]

Its going great peter. Happy new year !