Cabinetry Basics Part 2 - Screws or Nails? [video 436]

[@wellfiredbarbecue1394]

general tip ... if using a nail gun, stick some painters tape on first. nail through the tape. fill without removing tape. let dry. remove tape. only tiny areas need to be sanded.

[@daviddavis1322]

Simple enough to remember, I hope for next time!

[@longhairmullet]

Cool, thx.

[@RikoRey92]

Thank you master 🙏

[@sjfarrell2.0]

What a good idea 👍

[@hectorgrande8000]

Same for any cuts especially if you have a blade that isn’t for finish cuts. Put painters tape down then draw a line on top of the tape. Cut along the line over the tape when you pull off the tape you will have a cut good enough for any cabinetry projects

[@apswirl]

My goodness. I really appreciate the time you take going into such detail about what most novices, like me, would like to know or sometimes take for granted. I’m learning more about cabinetry in these short videos than some series that are hours long. Thank you very much!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Glad it was helpful! 👍

[@michaeljowett6864]

Really like this chap’s approach for teaching. Great channel. Is anyone else slightly reassured that stuff falls off his shelves too? And he doesn’t edit it out. I’m glad I’m not the only one.

[@enigmaticx326]

This series is gold for those of us new to cabinet making. 👍🏻

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks, glad you think so! 👍

[@dustinmoore1825]

Brilliant, only video on youtube that actually shows how to assemble an mdf carcass. Greetings from Texas, USA.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thank you! And very best wishes from London! 👍👍

[@astro143_]

Pocketholes are designed for hardwood and make it such that you don't screw directly into the end grain, you go from a face grain to a face grain. I do agree they're messy and are easiest to use in places that will stay hidden, but its worth noting why they are available.

The problem comes when they are done on plywood/MDF/particle/... They don't give a better join but they leave the "scars".

[@SillyOmega]

Personally my teacher had us make rabbets and dados. Then glue and nail them together.

[@wdnspoon]

@@SillyOmega Dados are wonderful, but the main reason I used them on my last kitchen reno was because my opa was helping me and insisted they were a better joint. He was right, but with a good glue and screw to clamp it down, I probably could've built it in 1/5th the time. We were using birch ply, which is a good choice for dados vs MDF or OSB where that'd be nonsensical.

[@MattGratt]

Finally the kind of videos I've been looking for - quick no-nonsense well-informed advice. Thanks!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! 🙌👍

[@Nayde]

Thanks mate! Lesson was straightforward, love how you would show the whole duration and not jumping from one scene to the other. This video is relatable

[@RohitKumar-dj9uz]

Thanks Peter for taking time to make these wood work videos for beginners like myself.

[@sanjaykandekar9211]

Very very useful information for beginners. And I love your style of explaining all things the way you do. Thank you for your efforts.

[@gilbertboyer9936]

Practical, down to earth advise. Your presentations are good and honest. Well done.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thank you! 👍

[@frankblack1481]

Knocking on the door of 100k. A sublime achievement but thoroughly deserved and, to be honest, should’ve happened aeons ago.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks Frank - and yes, getting there! 😆👍👍

[@marcoras5903]

Very helpfull for someone that just wants to build some custom things around the house. Much appreciated!

[@thewayoftheshadows1877]

These videos great. See a lot of people talking about pocket screws but no one breaks it down and shows you alternatives. As someone very new to joinery found this very helpful. Thanks 😊

[@FD-dh2fu]

Get on and Get one made. So straight and to the point. LOVE this!!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

👍

[@IonutNedelcu]

as someone who's never done anything like this before, I find your videos very informative and digestable. I need to learn how to build this type of cabinets very soon so I appreciate your tutoring!

[@SimonWad]

I'm totally absorbed by your videos of your techniques and you are inspiring me to delve deeper into woodworking. I've just made my son a cabinet for his computer & have just put together a makeshift table. The more I watch, the more ideas you give me! Thank you.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thank you! Really pleased to hear it! 👍👍

[@andrewknots]

When I bought my pocket hole jig (Kreg) I also bought the plug cutter which allows you to make plugs of the same material to fill the pocket holes. The result is almost invisible if one takes care to match the grain if using textured board.

[@VicMacMahon]

Yes please Peter! I would really like to see a piece on 18 Gauge nailers as I'm currently trying to decide between compressor and cordless and there doesn't seem to be much content from UK KZbinrs.

[@smirka7]

Loving the explanations, plain and simple for us novices 🔥

[@SandraHertel-u3b]

I will be watching this series to learn to make cabinets.

[@kluzz]

Perfect timing with this series, as I am about to start building some cabinetry in my garage. Thanks!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

👍👍

[@viveksabharwal9027]

me too 😀

[@nickgowen7737]

Wonderful video, thank you very much. I appreciate you going into the very basic aspects of cabinetry and woodworking.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thank you! 👍

[@alainaurelseguin]

I love your videos. Simple and to the point. I especially like that you are not affraid to share your oppinion on different style of either nailing or using any material (like your pocket hole) comment. I use pocket holes and I agree they leave a nasty mark on the wood. I would like to know how much weight you can put on a small cabinet. It would be great to know since I am always afraid of the putting lots of things in the cabinet just to find out that they will fail. Thanks.

[@JohnWilson-de6fd]

A very good video, Peter. A lovely antidote to the ones where people seem to spend a whole years income on tools and only ever seem to make plywood cabinets for their own Californian workshops! I'd slightly disagree with you on the downsides of pocket holes though. I make really nice (and pricey!) furniture. Mostly fitted bedrooms. All of it with pre-finished boards that I assemble on site with no further cosmetic re-finishing. Over 99% of it absolutely peppered with pocket hole screws, and none of them visible (unless you look round the back, underneath or anywhere else where no normal person would think of looking!). Using 15mm, 18mm and 25mm boards they're great for fixing at right angles and joining 2 boards butted up to each other, like joining the 2 pieces of the back in a double wardrobe, so you don't have to struggle with a 1 metre wide board. It just needs a bit of time in the planning. But yes, I 100% agree with the basic principle of the series: if you have a way of making a nice clean square cut in 18mm board, and you've got a few basic tools like a drill, a screwdriver and a hammer, and a bit of time, nothing (really) is beyond you. I look back at some of the things I made when I started with an old corded Black & Decker and a B&Q circular saw and still think they look pretty good. And still get customers coming back for more!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks John! Oh, I know many people - yourself included - who've built nice businesses making very nice furniture with extensive use of pocket-hole screws! But I still don't like them much, I'm sorry! Nothing against the mechanics of them - they're very strong and very easy to use because you're working from the face, every time, and you're only cutting one side of the joint. Now, for me next series, plywood shop cabinets and a walnut credenza, all made with pocket-hole screws - and maybe a couple of brads, just while the glue sets... 😆👍

[@lesliebauer1248]

I find if you have the nails,screw tips slightly protruding push the board together. It helps to hold it together while you drive home. great videos 😎👍

[@garethhumphreys3687]

Another informative video Peter, thank you for the great content, your channel is definitely worth the Patreon subscription. Your videos have inspired me to dust off my tools and get back into making again.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thank you! 👍👍

[@hlca143pr]

Thank you for your videos, I like your method of explanation. I just got into DIY because of this quarantine and have been watching a lot of videos lately. Sadly MDF as raw material is not sold in Puerto Rico, but I can apply your teachings to PVC plastic panels, we are not building too often with wood because our weather is excellent for all kind a termites. How you join them (screw, nails, pocket holes) seems to be a personal decision, depending on your desired finish and tools available. For me pocket holes are not a bad option since I will add a layer of formica laminate. And for sure I will suggest your videos to my other pals. Regards, Héctor.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thank you Hector! Best wishes from London! 👍

[@laapulsford]

Another great video Peter. SImple, however very informative and super useful. It's the really simple stuff that people frequently get wrong and this stops them from achieving great results. Keep the videos coming Peter, they are excellent...

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks Lester! 👍👍

[@whomadethatsaltysoup]

Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge! As ever, a very informative tutorial on a subject many newbie (and not so newbie) makers will be interested. Swamped with an endless choice of excellent tools to make joints, both quickly and easily, it is easy to forget the utility of PVA, nails and screws.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! Before this video I’d never used nails to make a carcass before, and have to be honest, I was amazed how well it held up, just with panel pins. 🤔👍👍

[@Mikej1592]

Ive used pocket hole screws for a lot of things. One project used 100 of them. Planter boxes that were lined then filled with dirt so no need to even fill the holes in. ground contact grade cedar and exterior rust resistant screws and boom, three happy magnolia trees in my backyard. They needed the boxes because the top soil where I live is like 4 inches deep and we needed to quickly and easily add a few feet of soil for the trees to take root in. They have good drainage and access to that super thin soil and hopefully will be able to help break donw that very hard clay soil eventually once those roots get long enough.

[@SingleTrack66]

Nail guns. Nail guns. I have a 22g , an 18g , a 16g . All compressed air they’re cheap and super reliable. I use them all when doing assembly work, depending on the project. Toe nail everything it’s really strong and of course plenty of glue.

[@ciptrofin]

I don't really think Peter's workshop has enough space for compressed air equipment :)

[@DaveDoesCarpentry]

It’s so satisfying manually driving a nail in to join cabinetry!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

It is! First time I’ve ever actually nailed a cabinet together was for this video - makes me wonder why I’ve been messing about all these years! 😂👍

[@DaveDoesCarpentry]

@@10MinuteWorkshop Got to do what is most satisfying! dont worry about how strong the join is hahah

[@tonypowell7529]

Very much enjoy your videos, well detailed and explained.

[@paulinesegar6379]

Thank you so very much. Have been struggling with my RV cabinet replacement. Wonderful and informative video. Simply amazing detailed instructions. Great job. Thanks for sharing.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thank you.

[@dannymurphy1779]

I think pocket holes are an excellent choice for a beginner who wants to get some stuff built. I actually think the holes look pretty cool as is. My Howdens units have unsightly platic boxes inside plus little shelf supposts but judging by the amount they sell people don't seem to mind too much. What is good about pocket holes is they do square up your work for you, not everyone has a workshop remember!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Yep, all very true! 👍👍

[@jamesvaughn4894]

Just built a kitchen cabinet, used pocket screws to assemble the face frame. First time I have used them, Very quick, easy and got great results.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Yep, no matter the damage that they do, or the aesthetics, they allow folks to get stuff built, which is fantastic 👍👍

[@jamesmilton5085]

I am very new to anything DIY and these videos have been very informative. Thank you for doing them and I look forward to the next one

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks James! You’re exactly the kind of viewer I had in mind, so I really appreciate the feedback. 👍👍

[@stenlangmann9652]

Really like this series. Subscribed.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks, and welcome! 👍

[@frankblack1481]

Do yourself a big favourite and go back and watch his old ones. Top notch.

[@jonandjessicacunningham7466]

Fantastic tutorials Peter, thanks for sharing! Silly question, is there a reason for hammering the nails with the boards upright at an angle? I would think nailing them with the hammer sideways when the boards end grain is face down (the way its set down at 4:48) might be easier to control. Maybe I just don't know how to use a hammer properly! :P

[@grumpywiseguy5992]

Just a great series Peter!!! I use an 18 gauge Ryobi nailer like the one you use. The only issue is how heavy it is. I also use Grex pneumatic nailers with a small, battery powered air compressor also by Ryobi. Still totally portable, the compressor is quiet, has plenty of power for nailers, and no power cord. The advantage is that an air powered nailer is really light weight for overhead work, such as attaching face frames on high cabinets on wall units. Thanks again, these really are good compilations of your years of work and experience.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! Good to hear you’re liking it so far. I had no idea Ryobi made a battery powered compressor - I’ll have to take a look at that, thanks! And yes, the 16g is a bit of a lump, keep meaning to get an 18g cordless; I have a corded Maestri nailer /stapler but it maxes out at 25mm, so a bit limiting. 🤷‍♂️👍👍

[@garyblake3130]

Hi Peter, when I used to make these cabinets I always rebated the sides and then fixed together. If you were using say 18mm I would rebate out 12mm leaving 6mm on the end, this would leave you the opportunity to nail down into the ends for fixing or fine screws if you were careful, this was especially useful if using veneered boards where you did not want to show your fixings on the side. I did chuckle when I saw the estwing come out for panel pins, I thought that was asking for trouble, a little tip I always used was to drag the pin against a piece of candle wax always went in easier. For the record I never had a claw hammer in my cabinet shop it was always my 10 oz or 3 1/2 oz cross pein Warrington hammers. And yes I do use senco nailers and pinners.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks Gary. Yes, that’s the way to do it- just trying to keep it simple for the ‘basics’ series, you know?? And yes, J thought those Estwing hammers were supposed to be decent! 😂😂 Haven’t hit a nail with a hammer for a long long time - could you tell?? 😆 👍👍

[@bighands69]

@Gary Blake A lot these choices really come down to the cost of the final product as time does mean money. Pocket holes are a simple cheap method of constructions that allows for timely production with good quality. Just some simple planning with pocket holes can allow for a really high standard of production.

[@V100-e5q]

Good job! Two ideas come to mind: 1. Using a second set of bench dogs with a spacer to get the corner arrangement steady. Spacer being two wedges with sandpaper glued on. This way they can be easily adjusted to any thickness while checking the corner's angle. Alternatively use a clamp and board as varaible stop. 2. Taping the second horizontal board to the first one in a T-formation. This way you have a plain to put the side board on at exactly 90°. The tape could go around the T-formation all the way like a belt so it does not rely on glueing and is strong.

[@Nadia-18]

You're a treasure on KZbin !

[@7Earthsky]

You can buy plastic caps to cover pocket holes. They give a good finished look.

[@pjgppjgp]

I think I saw a video in which is shown that if the pocket holes are placed correctly they resist the shear stress more than the screws from the side.

[@GNU_Linux_for_good]

02:23 *Not* mine. The two tables I have built some thirty years ago, are solely glued together (even butt joints only) and they are not have come lose yet over all these years.

[@philm6629]

Just found your channel. How refreshing - no time wasting, just straight to the point and packed full of useful info. A question...I'm about to make a simple rustic box cabinet (bookcase actually) out of pallet wood, which I will double up to make sides and shelves thick enough. Presumably glue and screw would be most effective? I've assumed I'd need internal braces in the corners to strengthen the joints, but now I'm wondering if that's necessary. What do you think? Thanks if you find time to answer!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks, and welcome! Is it a freestanding bookcase, or fixed to a wall? Will,it have a back fitted, or just be open to the wall? If it’s freestanding and without a back, I’d brace the corners to avoid racking. If it can be fixed to a wall, or have a back fitted, then it’ll probably be fine without. 👍

[@philm6629]

@@10MinuteWorkshop Blimey, thanks for the quick response!! By "racking" I assume you mean collapsing from a rectangle into a parallelogram? That is my main concern. It's intended to be free standing ie portable, and I'm thinking a back would be preferable because the braces would intrude into the internal space. Or perhaps two external braces under each end of the bottom shelf might be enough? Thanks again for taking the trouble...

[@gooseholla1]

wolfcraft do lovely triangle corner clamps which I use to hold pieces to be able to glue then screw and nail.

[@kennywoods8713]

Hi Peter, I’ve just used some screw-tite screws left over and I do like the small hole they leave like a nail but have the controls of a screw and boy do the live up to their name. Downsides though is cost and I suppose the head size but I’ve had no problems yet.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks Kenny. Yes, they’re excellent, though nit a general-purpose screw, that’s for sure. Great to have as an option though! 👍👍

[@chrismcandrew1041]

... and all with a complete absence of muzak. Love it!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! 👍

[@johnwatson8192]

Or the flash bang wallop I'm coming at you guys

[@frankblack1481]

Yep - nothing makes me hit the ‘stop’ button quicker than guitar shreddding

[@frankblack1481]

...the only channel that is *enhanced* by its use of music is Scott Brown Carpentry. His use of background/B-Roll/music is exemplary, in my humble opinion.

[@mege0105]

I'm glad I got into your channel. Really useful and very well explained for beginners. You got a new subscriber from Mexico! Cheers!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks, ans welcome! 👍

[@motionsick]

This is awesome Peter! Thank you for uploading these.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Glad you like them, thank you!

[@davidhull1610]

This is an excellent series of videos, with everything clearly explained and there is information here for woodworkers with every level of experience......you would have made an excellent teacher! On the subject of pocket holes, I quite like them for some jobs, but I am always wary of using them with sheet materials, because the screw is aimed directly at the outer corner of the carcase, and you have to be very careful not to blow out the edge....or perhaps I'm just clumsy! I do like to use them in thicker solid wood and have found you can make the scars almost invisible in pine/whitewood by gluing in a piece of 9mm dowel and cutting it off with a flush cut saw (all my workbenches are built that way). Can't wait for instalment no.3 of this series👍

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks Davis! Yes, I know what you mean re pocket holes and sheet goods, and I haven't used them often, but so far they've worked well - but then so did the nails! 🤷‍♂️👍😂

[@MrSossino]

Hi Peter, many thanks for the great video series! They are extremely helpful. Could I ask a very basic question, please. I believe you said that you would always use mechanical fixings in addition to glue - my question is, would you ever just use mechanical fixings and no glue? What's the rationale behind the use of glue? Thanks very much!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! Yes, I’ve made many cabinets that were simply held together ‘dry’ usually when they needed to be flat-packed again. The rationale behind using glue is that it simply makes a stronger joint, all round, which becomes more important if the work is a freestanding piece that may be moved around once built. 👍👍

[@MrSossino]

@@10MinuteWorkshop many thanks, Peter!

[@purkleL]

If every joint was using the Spax screws, I assume you'd need to pre-drill holes first, in which case would you need to use a doweling jig to drill the holes straight? I'm just thinking on the first two joints where the pieces are held at an angle it might be hard to drill straight? Thanks

[@BoxerDogs]

At 4:15, you are driving the nails into the board partially to get them started. This is similar to the idea of using pilot holes before drilling something. When you are getting the nails started, what is the name of this technique?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

I believe it's called 'setting' the nails. 👍

[@BoxerDogs]

@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you.

[@manohoo]

3:38 Anytime you put pressure on that setup the angle is going to change. Why not having the 2 pieces sitting on the edges, at right angle with the table. It would be easier to maintain squareness too

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

I fear you have really, really missed the point here. 🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️

[@RollCorruption]

Hi Peter, you have inspired me to purchase my first tracksaw and also... gulp... to make my own kitchen cabinets... I'm a DIY'er but I love learning new thigns and it seems like a good challenge. My only question is whether you have some basic templates or advice for cutting full sheets of Medite MDF to avoid wastage when it comes to making kitchen cabinets. many thanks and big fan of the channel

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! Honestly, I dont have any kind of cutlist softawre or anything, I just draw it out to scale as a 2-D plan. Works OK for me! 👍

[@MrV8rick]

I'm a ex bricklayer took up welding building trikes and motorbikes. Never got on with wood. Sorry Peter pocket hole is my only way. I started a couple of years or so ago back on a learning curve with wood. Love the channel it keeps me sane

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thank you! Honestly, pocket holes work very well, provided you can live with, or hide, the scarring. 👍👍

[@MrV8rick]

@@10MinuteWorkshop I have doweled and glued with a dowel jig but in my case its clamps. I count your clamps and just long for half LOL. at least now I do more than use my chop saw for more than fire wood. I think I have more patience now and take more time

[@PrimaryInt]

Peter another excellent video - like this are the building blocks for all sorts of work I think. I am about to build something at home - a kitchen wall display unit in 18mm birch ply - I am going to use screws and biscuits for the corners- can I ask you your view on screw type and size, clearance hole size and pilot hole size? Really appreciate the channel .

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks. For 18mm thick I generally use 4x40mm screws, sometimes 3.5x40. Pilot hole is generally 3mm for that size screw. 👍

[@davorinrusevljan6440]

Is it ok to apply wood glue directly on surface of mdf, or it needs to be prepped by light sanding before?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

No need for any prep, just apply glue & pressure! 👍

[@cribbsprojects]

Really helpful all encompassing trip through cabinets. Thanks.

[@kristoffscuba5466]

Pocket holes come into their own in real wood. They allow you to screw into face grain rather than end grain. Much stronger. Helps a bit with mdf but not as necessary.

[@isackhernandez3691]

Pocket holes are better used for real wood is what I'm understanding

[@kristoffscuba5466]

@@isackhernandez3691 They are good for real wood as they allow you to screw into face grain rather than end grain. But they are also fine for use in MDF.

[@johnsmith-fz3qk]

Over 100,000 views and only 5.5k likes, this is criminally under appreciated! Informative content as ever. Agree about the pocket hole screws. I'm new to carpentry so eagerly waiting to see where exactly it is they prevail. I know there's a bit of a "for" and "against" thing around them.

[@mericontechnologies989]

hi sir, its really a helpful class for me...by this same idea ( pocket screwing) can we fix shelving pieces of wardrobe also if it is pre laminated or finished pieces or using cold pressed plywoods

[@mrb9830]

when would you normally start painting shelves or a cabinet? would you prime before assembly?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

I prefer to pre-paint completely before assembly. 👍

[@tsyp40]

What was the result? Where we should use nails vs screes

[@EditRoom2012]

Hey Peter thanks for these vids. Apologies if this question has already been answered but when is it best to screws and when is it best to use nails? Any advantages to either?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Use screws whenever you can because it’s a stronger fixing, long-term. I’ve been a cabinetmaking professionally for ~20years and this was the first time I’ve ever nailed one together. 👍

[@tunnel7]

Your very good at presenting your videos Pete love watching them I very much like your track saw table well impressed thinking of investing in one or making one with ujk parf dog guide can I get the hinged track or even make one will it adjust to various thickness of board. Thanks again.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! It’s an off-the-shelf Festool MFT or Multi-function table & the hinged rail comes as standard. See videos #182 and #183 for more details. 👍 I will be making my own budget version before too long, so watch out for that. Festool MFT video 182, kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZoeQoWh8bLidhZY and follow-on 183 kzbin.info/www/bejne/iKnGh4xuj7dlnLM All MFT related vids in a playlist here - bit.ly/MFT-related

[@steven6068]

Hi Peter, Excellent information from your series. Keep up the great work. Unless I have missed it... Can you do a tour of your work Lorry?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks Steven. Sorry - lorry? You mean the van? Not much to see tbh! 🤔🙌👍

[@stevebosun7410]

Hi Peter, some useful info' as usual. A couple of comments if I may. When I nail boards together like you did, I usually let the point of the nail just break through and then use it to locate the board before hammering the nails home. Using bench dogs looks like a good idea, but when driving the nails home you risk damaging the corner of the board. Finally a question. Do you pilot drill when screwing into the edge of MDF?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks Steve, yes I always pilot drill - 3mm pilot for a 4mm screw. 👍

[@Horseinacorset]

Thanks Peter, your videos are brilliantly made! This might be a basic question, but if you typically use a size 4 screw for 18mm MDF, what diameter pilot hole would you normally drill for this? Should you drill the same diameter, or maybe 1mm smaller so the threads have something to catch onto?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thank you! It’s a 4mm x 40mm screw, so a 3mm pilot hole is generally fine. 👍

[@paulmaryon9088]

Hi Peter, another great vid thanks, I love those spax MDF screws, they certainly do exactly what it says on the tin! Stay safe, thanks for posting

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks Paul! and they certainly do! 👍

[@wjjpearson]

What actual noticeable difference do you see compared to cheap wood screw?

[@paulmaryon9088]

@@wjjpearson They never split the MDF even when used close to the edge,can even be driven without the use of a pilot,and the torx heads rarely cam out, also self countersinking, Try them, think you'll be impressed

[@katrinamcbride9338]

Really enjoying your videos. Newbie question: So, why would you choose screw over nail? Is it a stronger join? Does the choice depend on materials used? Like hardwood or softwood ect? Or maybe what the cabinets going up for? Thanks

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks and welcome! Screws are a stronger fixing generally, and much mores o when there's an axial load ie when the forces on the joint are trying to pull the screw or nail out of the workpiece along it's length; the threads in the screw make it much more resistive to that kind of load. 👍

[@katrinamcbride9338]

​@@10MinuteWorkshop Great. Thank you

[@fraserhardmetal7143]

We forget how limited we were , until quite recently , in the options we had - powertools have been a game changer. My dad nailed things together - or used corrugated fasteners ( what happened to them ? ) Never used glue , and very rarely used a screw fitting. I was of the posidriv generation , which opened your options up a bit - and then the Yankee screwdriver - guaranteed to slip - should have been the tag line. Screwing (ahem ) was seldom used as a diy fixing as I remember - it was all 2 by 1 , Royal hardboard , nails and panel pins , or if you subscribed to Practical Householder , you graduated to reeded hardboard and quilted Fablon. When I married and had to up my game to Central Heating and Kitchens , my game changer was a screwdriver bit in a brace and bit - try attaching radiator brackets and generally screwing with a normal screwdriver - it's forearm bursting. We default too easily to the cordless driver - there are better, more suitable alternatives. Glue , or glue and pin are normally more than adequate for basic home cabinetry. Certainly , the cordless drill/ driver has enabled the average diyer to greater things - there is still a place for basic , and perhaps more elegant fixings. Then we have the Festool generation - a tool for every application.......... I still have ny Dad's pushpin , for inserting panel pins without a hammer , and bless him , when I was sorting out my Mother's estate recently , when removing the burglar alarm boxes from the house , the back repeater ( which was a dummy ) had been nailed to the wall with several thorsman cable clips - he put that up in 1979, had not moved at all, and took some prising off.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Great comment! Thanks! Wow, corrugated fasteners - wavy nails we called them, haven’t thought of those in years! Probably last used them at art school in the later 70s to make canvass stretchers! As for 2x1 batten over-boarded with hardboard, and yes, panel pins - you could be describing my childhood home, or any of my friends or neighbours from back then. Must admit, I’m pretty sure that before I made this video I’ve never nailed a carcass together before, and I was impressed by how well it held up - and it did make me wonder why I’ve been messing about with all this fancy stuff, all this time! 🤷‍♂️😆👍👍 Great comment, thanks again for taking the time to share your thoughts! 🙌

[@elizabethanderson718]

Have you got an article showing how to build a small oblong box out of plywood. Thanks?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Almost exactly that here - Little Plywood Boxes - a basic build [video 495] kzbin.info/www/bejne/p5iUm5ePrpWEiqc Or for more basic construction advice, here - Storage Cubes: A Basic Build. [video 502] kzbin.info/www/bejne/farZXqJ9gLd5aZI

[@WinoSnip]

Dear Peter - nice video again, thanks. Maybe a suggestion for a follow up: I think the choice of material for the cabinet (in your case MDF) does have an influence on which jointing methods are more suitable and which are less. If I understood correctly, the Lamellos f.I. were introduced to overcome the challenges of jointing chipboard (of lesser quality). The quality of the MDF determines some of the options as well. And a 2nd thought is about the transport between the workshop and the client - which you addressed in another video. Thanks, Wino

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! Very true, though I think any of the jointing methods that work well in MDF will work well in other materials - not always the case the other way around though! 👍

[@WinoSnip]

@@10MinuteWorkshop A while ago I somehow got some MDF of a (very) poor quality. If I drove a nail in it, it did splice-up easily, vert easily. A cut for a lamello would break out surprisingly easyly and fast as well. It was just falling apart in my hands basically. I did not realise that there was such a quality difference between different types of MDF. I ended up just using dowels (with the Mafell DDF40) and glue, just because of the poor quality of the MDF. To be honest, it really crossed my mind to just trough away that MDF. I did not - I used it for something which was not going to deal with a lot of dynamic forces, only static ones. (A cover for a central heating manifold under some open stairs). Ever since I do pay quite a bit more attention when buying MDF.

[@mick882]

Yet another great series. Thanks Peter

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Cheers Mick! 👍

[@FritsvanDoorn]

Hi Peter, I saw you using a nailer. Can we expect a special on the one you use? How to set it for correct use? I have a simple Metabo on air pressure for trim nailing. Looking forward to your next video. Thank you.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks Frits! I have a ‘nailers and staplers’ video planned, yes. 👍👍

[@lordrichard8184]

I love pocket holes. But they do need a bit of planning to make sure the holes will be hidden. If they’re going to be visible I’d probably go with a different type of fastener that I could easily hide

[@grybaz]

Hello, is the festool plunge saw guide that is attached to adjustable slider on your workbench something pre-made and can be purchased right away, or it's a DIY invention, it looks very useful in small workshop

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! It’s an off the shelf Festool MFT. There’s a playlist with all my MFT & MFT-related videos in it here - bit.ly/MFT-related. I’ve also made my own MFT and DIY rail hinge recently - check back through the recent videos. 👍

[@markkubis5640]

Great series. I'm just a beginner and am left confused as to why you're using glue when you're also using a much stronger fixing method?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! Unless you’re planning on taking them apart again, there’s no reason not to use glue. 👍

[@ciptrofin]

The self drilling Spax looks very convenient. I am quite surprised it does not split MDF without predrilling in endgrain. What size do you use with 18mm MDF? Does Spax work with particleboard ? PS. Local market downside: the Spax is expensive (4-5 screws for 1 Euro). I use Confirmat screws, but they require pilot holes all the way.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

I always pilot-hole as a matter of habit, but the spax m-cut self-countersink very well. 4x40mm is my go-to for 18mm MRMDF, and I’ve never used them with particleboard - not something I’ve ever used tbh. And no, they’re not cheap. 👍🤷‍♂️

[@Halbmond]

I’m a total amateur but I love using pocket holes! I’d be scared of using them with MDF, but with solid wood or multiplex plywood I can use them on the insides of a cabinet if the wood is thick enough, leaving the outsides completely intact. I know this makes the screws face towards the butts of the boards and this is structurally probably not the best but those types of wood seem to be fine with it, and Kreg also suggests it. I wonder how strong pocket holes are compared to normal screws in MDF?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

I was very impressed by how well pocket hole screws hold up in MRMDF. Absolutely solid. 👍👍

[@allthingsmalta6487]

Regarding Pocket-hole screws - surely there is no advantage - strength wise at least - when using MDF of plywood? I thought their advantage was in solid wood so the screws are at an angle to the wood fibres.

[@djspoc]

Extremely useful series, thank you. Question: is the main advantage of using a nailer vs a hammer mostly down to speed and ease? Trying to gauge whether it’s a worthwhile investment for a DIYer, or more of a tool for the pros to simply speed things up. Thanks

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! I suppose consistency plays a part in there as well, being able to set the mailer so the head is just below the surface. Overall though, I think you need to do a lot of nailing to justify the cost of a cordless nailer; if you already have a compressor, then air nailers can be relatively affordable - I think I paid ~£23 for my 16g and I’ve just spent £28 on an 18g. I may yet push the boat out and pick up a 23g for £35-ish, but we’ll have to see. There’s a ‘nailers and staplers’ video coming - can you tell?? 😂👍👍

[@djspoc]

@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks for the answer and looking forward to that video!

[@chrisbowman5910]

How important are those specialist MDF screws? I was hoping to build a carcass using standard wood screw with pilot holes... Is it worth buying a packet of those screws?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Spax m-cut are the best I’ve used - and I’ve used plenty - but I’ve also built plenty of cabinets with regular screws too, and they were absolutely fine; just be sure you pilot them first. 👍👍

[@chrisbowman5910]

@@10MinuteWorkshop great. Thanks for the swift reply too. Love the videos by the way.

[@barryirby8609]

The cheap MDF we get here across the pond is rather sad. It comes over sized by about an inch bigger than plywood because it is so tender the edges are usually banged up. And a single drop of water will raise a bump on it. If you remove the bump the texture under it is different and will show through the finish. Wish we had Medite or maybe I need to hunt for it. I will at least try to find some MR or Moisture Resistant type. Thanks for the video.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! I know a few folks who have managed to find MR MDF in the US, but they’ve had to search it out. 👍👍

[@marcuswilliams1694]

Been watching now for a while some great advice and tips has help me so much and given me reassurance when starting a project has even helped me with my PTSD as it has given me focus thank you Peter

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks Marcus! 👍👍

[@myscape8843]

i like how you explain things. thanks

[@DerekTJ]

Question: I notice you use three fixings on each joint; would adding a fourth make a discernable difference?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Not at this size. 👍

[@paulround8501]

Personally I always use dowels or biscuits so there is no damage to external faces. Filling nail holes or over screw heads is just a huge amount of extra work and time. Agree about pocket hole screws, I hate those things.

[@Heavy-C]

I love your setup with that track saw. Do you find you use that more than your table saw?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Never really had a table saw worth a damn until earlier this year, so definitively my main way to cut sheets. 👍

[@ogatkinson6274]

Thanks, I always learn something from watching your videos. South Texas

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks, glad to hear it! 👍 Greetings from London!

[@Snartang]

You hurt my feelings with the interior pocket screw placement, ha. Even though you would never see my pocket screws this is still a good and helpful video, good work again. It’s probably appropriate to fasten with screws or nails into the end ‘grain’ of MDF for a decent connection. However with plywood, I have found that pocket screws have a much better connection than a screw into the end grain of plywood. End grain tends to split if the carcass is racked. Attaching into perpendicular grain with a pocket screw is far less likely to split or pull out. Oh, and if you use enough pocket screws, you have have another knock down option... yes, I get emotional over pocket screws. Cheers

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Sorry about that! 😂 In a wall-hung cabinet, where would you put them though? They’ll be visible all the time if you put them on the outside face of the base 🤷‍♂️👍

[@bighands69]

@@10MinuteWorkshop If it is a wall hung cabinet chances are it is above eye level at the top and on the bottom below eye level and you can but dressing around it. Now if you have a wall hung cabinet that will be exposed filling them in is the only option really but again these mdf cabinets and not some fine furniture piece that is exposed with some exotic wood. If the cabinet is a base cabinet you can put them on the underside of the top of the cabinet or underside of the base. Pocket holes screws can be used for anything really when it comes to kitchen style mdf cabinets or plywood.

[@Snartang]

@Peter Millard. I build a cross between face framed/ euro cabinetry. Where, yes, line of sight is kind of ok to have them on the bottom and not be seen much except by children and other shorties. But I just about always have a light valence extension that is part of the face frame, which further conceals the line of sight. Additionally, I also usually have a channel for wiring and a false bottom so that the under cab lighting can be brought forward, away from the wall. If the top can be seen well from a loft or something, the top of the face frame would be tall enough that a false top can be applied. I’m also trying to conceal the end grain of plywood in these circumstances. Cutting sheet goods for false bottoms takes me less time that dealing with things another way. You don’t really have that option with typical euro construction and have it be efficient in any way I presume.

[@ccccha]

I use pocket hole screws in a lot of my projects. They are pretty easy to hide usually. In the case of the carcass you made, why didn't you just flip the board the other way, so that the pocket holes were on the outside of the unit like you did on the top? Then you don't have to fill any holes, because they will all be hidden when installed. One of my favorite ways to make drawers is with pocket holes. I put the front and the back of the drawer on with the pockets on the outside of the unit--then cover the front with a false front. Therefore, you don't see the holes from the front--and you never see the ones from the rear unless you pull the drawer all the way out off of the slides.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

These are all wall-hung cabinets - the outer face of the base will be seen much more than the top.

[@bighands69]

@@10MinuteWorkshop I do not think 99% of the public would notice a plug on the underside of a wall hung cabinet. Fair enough if that person is paying £20,000 for cabinets in a kitchen there would need to be some effort to present it as clean as can be.

[@colinmorgan8641]

Hi Peter. Thx for the video. The SPAX catalogue, like the Blum catalogue, is about a gazillion pages long... Are you referencing the Spax-M "special indoor" partial threaded screw in your video?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks Colin! It's these ones I use for MDF - Spax m-cut screws, amzn.to/2Nv0L6H

[@colinmorgan8641]

@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks Peter - one hell of a quick reply :-)

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

No problem - happened to be sat at my computer! 👍

[@yonkomanhomes5715]

Good day Sir, please I have a cabinet door that measures 15 X.33 7/8, I want to practice my first DIY cabinet. Please what should be the measurements to cut for such door? Great video. Short and precise. Love it. Thank you

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks, but without knowing wether the door is inset or overlay I wouldnt want to guess at a door size. Also what kind of hinges are being used, etc.. etc.. 👍

[@yonkomanhomes5715]

Please it's overlay door with overlay insert. Funny I had to other KZbin video to find out what they were 😆