Engine Building 350 Small Block Chevy Part 14 - Dyno Testing and contest Winners

[@ideas_for_life_1]

Thank you very much for making this content. This was more interesting than anything Netflix or HBO puts out.

[@PetesGarage]

That's very nice of you

[@Togglefree]

How cool, I lived in Lincoln Park, MI when I was a kid. 300hp is what I was thinking when you said the cam was just little above stock.

[@PetesGarage]

Right on!

[@dennis6325]

Excellent work Pete. I checked with Edelbrock and their E-street Performer Top-End Kit for EFI is advertised to produce 338HP. So your ending is within tolerance! Nice Job!

[@PetesGarage]

Thank you Dennis

[@zAvAvAz]

thank you so much pete's garage. here are some opinions for anyone building maybe for slightly more power although similar: flat tappet cams in general outperform roller cams until a roller cam is big enough to start overcoming the increased weight of roller lifters. Although less friction and cam break in is way slicker , low rpm cammed engines prefer flat tappets for peak numbers. I would still recommend going with a roller cam everytime = even a lower rpm , or lower output engine like this nicely balanced street car build. The vacuum advance of the intake could be a hinderance for some certainly with the intentional build of this engine's performance envelope. i wonder if the edelbrock performer EPS would do well or have similar issues or different ones. i probably would have chosen a comp cams PE246,H10, XE250H10 , 255DEH10, 265DEH10, XE256H10, or XE262H10 for upwards of 400 tq. and 300 to 340 ish HP like this one if i were to use a flat tappet, or even a 268H10, or 270H10 magnum cam. Now for Hydraulic roller cams i would match to your compression ratio with slightly more compression, like an XR282HR10 i would use 10.25:01 static compression and not any less (aluminum and fast burn heads of course). so an XR276HR10 with 10:1 compression (aluminum heads) . A 9.75:01 with XR268HR10, 9.50:01 with XR264HR10.j and you could probably level off static compression there for iron heads if vortec. building a 330HP mill power chevy you could easily use vortec heads.and an XR264HR cam and probably have closer to 350hp or more, just be sure to have 9.5:01 static. or 9.65:01 and make 400tq also. to put it into perspective a 355 with an XE274H10 comp cam, vortec heads make over 375HP and 380TQ. So an XR282HR10 would probably be my choice for the roller cammed version with 9.75-10:1 with vortec iron heads. Or a 280H10 wouldn't be all that bad. Although they wont run factory power brakes as well as this engine here in the video. of course i use things like dual master cylinders with ultra high mechanical leverage system, high ratio steering box etc. so i don't have to worry about powersteering, or powerbrakes anymore. the exhaust is custom tuned length headers and collector length and sizing, with a breaker box before the mufflers, this causes the exhaust to think its hit open air before the mufflers. the cars are pony cars and lighter than stock. if you would like to build the same engine in this video i recommend the heads be ported by one known to port those heads and actually improve them beccause they are a great head design, your best bet for low rpm are the valve seat area and valve size and unshrouding. so get the smallest cc chamber version and work up from there. raise all the ports and the floors if allowable. oh well thats enough now. :o) don't forget these great hydraulic roller cams for vettes or anything: XR252HR10, XR258HR10, XR260HR10, and all of the comp cams Xtreme 4x4 versions in fact that i am like better on cars.

[@PetesGarage]

Great comment, thanks Dennis!

[@zAvAvAz]

@@PetesGarage :o)

[@WORLDDRUMCLUB]

Really digging your channel and content. Thank you for sharing so generously! You also mention keeping a civil atmosphere, which I support. No need to be mean or rude. We’re all here to learn and help each other. Thank you for helping me. Best wishes to you and your family.

[@PetesGarage]

Thank you my friend. I'm pretty quick to delete rude, offensive or comments that do nothing to help other people. I can take criticism, I just cut it off at pure stupidity.

[@stvmassacre]

Thanks for the shout out Pete, can't wait for the next build.

[@PetesGarage]

You got it brotha!

[@wysetech2000]

Well done, Pete. Useful tips as well.

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks my friend

[@jamyers1971]

Great video! Although I take issue with your comments about hooking the vacuum advance to the manifold - MILLIONS of engines do just that. In fact, you want the vacuum advance to go away at WOT. You're thinking about vacuum advance backwards. If Holley thinks you only want vacuum advance above 3200 rpm, they're nuts.

[@PetesGarage]

I think there is a miscommunication. Of course vacuum drops to zero at WOT. Physics dictate that is what should happen. The problem we were having is that there was no vacuum advance until 3200 and Holley told my that is when they have it come on. I agree with you, depending on performance the vacuum may get switched back to the manifold.

[@jamyers1971]

Ok, makes sense. Still seems goofy that Holley set it up that way (talk about yer ported vacuum, haha). Ive found that most engines do just fine on straight manifold vacuum, but who knows what else Hley has going on?

[@PetesGarage]

@@jamyers1971 Yeah, I was just as confused. I think they may fix that in future software versions.

[@timmosley9695]

Vacuum advance is only needed while in part throttle use or cruising speed and has nothing to do with what RPM, The mechanical advance is RPM related and is normally around 20 to 25 degrees or so .The initial advance is normally set around 10 to 15 degrees.

[@PetesGarage]

That was right from the Holley Tech support line

[@Dr_Xyzt]

Nice dyno chart. Flat from 3100 to about 4700, rolling off at about 5400, without any electric water pump inflating your numbers. Honest, reliable, simple, smooth, good running motor. I'm having fun with your EGT numbers. In the big picture, the EGT's are really consistent on absolute temperature scales. Cylinder 5 seems to run cool, 180 degrees out of phase with number 3, the short runner cylinders. But 4&6 run hot with the short runners from the low-side plenum. Interesting. Half a pound of manifold vacuum. That's a good throttle body. It has the cross section to crack 600hp for sure.

[@PetesGarage]

Wow...that is an awesome anaylsis. Thank you

[@Dr_Xyzt]

Your videos have useful information, it's hard not to be curious. Most people put up WOT pulls with the Air fuel ratio, and nothing else. On the 'net, there's an onslaught of information that may or may not be true. Here, you put up really useful numbers that make you think. "Do short runners make the engine run lean?" Well, your numbers show a mixed result. That's awesome. It de-bunks stuff. The vacuum. 0.4 psi at the start of the pull. It makes you think, "I thought only RPM would increase vacuum." But it's zero right over the torque bubble, and high at the bottom end. Resonance.

[@PetesGarage]

It takes a ton of experience to tune an engine, you're right!

[@armandomendoza3167]

What cam did you use? I like the numbers of hp and ft-lb. Yet I want to use similar specs on a 1995 chevy truck 350 TBI with 112' lobe separation. Since is the number that the computer is happy with.

[@PetesGarage]

Comp 12-408-8

[@AustrianAnarchy]

Congratulations Jamie!

[@PetesGarage]

He must watch a good engine channel ; )

[@imawesomekbye]

Thank you for the video, was interesting and had plenty of useful information. I have a z28 with the l82 and a similar build and was curious what kind of numbers it put up. Just purchased the sniper EFI also.

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks my friend..I love the Z28! This one was around 330 HP 350 Torque

[@Elias78506]

Hey man I’d love to build this engine for my first build, could I have a part list of everything you used for this 350?

[@PetesGarage]

Send me an email

[@ironhorse127]

Really an enjoyable build from start to finish. Im a little surprised at the horsepower and torque numbers. I truly expected more from this build. Especially with a fuel injection set up.

[@PetesGarage]

It was all in the cam. Put more into that with some heads and it's up to 550 easy.

[@SteveP-vm1uc]

I know this one was a roller motor, but in giving instructions for the dyno, my question is for breaking in the cam. Run the full set of springs or remove the center spring??? I am hoping to fire my 440 soon and unfortunately, this motor has been completely together for about 12 years now. Solid lifter cam and yes, (like an idiot), the rockers are on... I do roll the motor over 1 1/4 turns now and then, but I am worried I have ruined the springs.... Your thoughts????

[@SteveP-vm1uc]

Sure is. I built the motor for my last 65' Coronet. I was not real happy with the car and ended up selling it. I should have at least removed the push rods, but I was going to install it and re-injured my back. Once I was out of bed again, I had more life issues. SINK HOLE. Then we moved. Remodeled the house and I am about ready to fire her up on a stand and if all goes well it will go into my new 65' Coronet 500..

[@SteveP-vm1uc]

I blew out 3 discs back in 97'. Have had many surgeries since then with a fusion in 09'. I can't say it was a failed fusion because I can still walk, but I don't bend and with trying to do everything I am use to doing it is pretty impossible. My commitment is more like,,, well,,, if I got rid of my car I wouldn't have a lot left to bother with... My cousin in Vegas and some friends back home in Roch. NY. are planning to all get back together for a cruise. I have a lot of work to do to make it back up there from Florida..... lol.. It's kind of a bucket list thing.. ;) Hell, maybe I will stop in and see Pete!!!! He's only an hour from Rochester...

[@SteveP-vm1uc]

I hear ya Ken. I do push it and sometimes way more than I should, but I am one of those guys that can't leave something with only a few more minutes needed to finish. Even when I know I should stop!! I blew out L3-S1, so far. I am fused and just cannot think of anything that makes me happy other than old fashioned hard work. It seems to be our curse.

[@PetesGarage]

You guys are all awesome! thank you for watching....I really do appreciate it.

[@turnipsucks6416]

Might as well Chime in. L5-S1 for myself. 2nd time was a charm.... The stuborn a@# I am caused re-injury. That said, If I might chime in to my broke back comrads:) Swim. It's a no pressure work out that increases strength in the core. It's what i am trying to be consistant in doing myself. Best of luck to you all. This Back bs is no joke. so those unaware, watch your back lift correctly, and stretch for "C" sake.

[@jrento9562]

If you have a roller camshaft you should of had a bronze distributor gear on there am I right or am I wrong?

[@PetesGarage]

No, that's an upgrade

[@duanedahljr1669]

The Sniper exhibits the death whistle, a 4 hole space will remedy this. I run my vacuum off the manifold currently, my distributor has 15 Initial, 4 degrees in the vacuum advanced and 28 In mechanical. When I'm In a 0 vacuum manifold pressure i still have 28* advance, not 0. If I heard you correctly I've been told that this is the preferred, pre 1968 smog style operation. I run my 65 dodge 440 the same way with the Fitech 2x4 efi

[@PetesGarage]

Sounds good to me Duane

[@TxJonathan]

Can you please do a 5.3 gen III rebuild ? That's basically the modern age 350. In the middle of swapping one in my s10 blazer

[@danoneill2846]

I have one in my truck , fast with good MPG & HP

[@PetesGarage]

I will as soon as I get one

[@MagnusDominus1]

What is that about 323ci? That would make it like a modern 327? I don't know much about the new designs. My knowledge is fro 20 - 30 years ago.

[@YuriTuu]

Pops looking sharp today guys!

[@PetesGarage]

You can always learn from Pops

[@StacyLawrence-q5y]

Does anyone know what is the manufacturer & part # of that water pump belt?

[@PetesGarage]

I would measure your engine first to get the right belt

[@vuptihansen5719]

The vacuum issue is that the same with the msd efi system ?

[@PetesGarage]

I'm not sure how that one is set up

[@BoxcarsGarage]

I need to review this video series. I'm interested in an e street series head for a motor I'm going to build for my model a. Just looking to build a dependable driver. I'll have to see if you utilized the entire eldebrock power pack or if you pieced it together. Thanks Pete

[@PetesGarage]

I pieced it together including the Holly Sniper EFI

[@magnuswester4748]

If you would like 100hp more in that engine. What do you have to changed?

[@PetesGarage]

Pistons, heads, cam, intake

[@charlie4339]

Just curious what kind of pistons you used

[@codygarrison8160]

you have great knowledge

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks Cody

[@7REDDRACO7]

425hp 425tq? i don't know anything about the engine so that is my guess other than its a 350 sounds great.did not mean to undershoot what this engine looks like. 330 hp @ 5100 rpm and 357 torque i am guessing at the same rpm, as it probably made more like 380 torque peak at lower rpm ,(oops corrected again 8:32 its 357 TQ at 4000 through 4100 rpm) still i wonder what the compression is and the cam specs. Hydraulic rollers are great for less friction and agree the use of one even a small one, i say 'Even' a small roller cam because roller cams performance wise as far as lobe design and function do not see an advantage until it is able to overcome the added weight and distance of the lobe until about 224 it breaks even, and up in durations @ O.O5O" lift spec, and really until 230* degrees plus degrees really, only then do they surpass flat tappet hydraulics at that point. And really begin to shine at 240 and 250 degrees even though it shall still have a very tight compacted rpm on the top non extended because of the greater distance the roller lifter is traveling and its weight. Even still a hydraulic roller has the advantage in friction, and in efficiencies, even though it is not witnessed on a dyno versus flat tappet hydraulics until breaks even by 224* at O.O5O" lifts. and begins to climb pass hydraulics from that point until solid rollers outshines them all with their extended rpm range. The great thing about a hydraulic roller is that you can design a really large one for street and the dyno shall reward with compact fat power meaning not that the rpm is so limited, it is a sign of great efficiencies in a lower upper rpm band and compounding on the midrange. on a 406 small block chevy with 10 to1 static compression and some small 165cc heads a large roller cam made 399hp and 466 torque, that mega torque is a sign of the great efficiency had with more lobe distance, hence the LS larger cam design more valve control is had. i am have designed a dual lobe cam, that is correct a dual lobe upon a single lobe profile this makes low power as well as high, and can be made to have high end power lower in the rpm band, imagine having high rpm power on the low or midrange with this i shall design an engine that has performance and 40 mpg normal in a 4 or 5 hundred torque application.. it shall have smoother idles and the lobe distance of great durations although with the velocities of small cams by controlling the valve movement and placement zones precisely in wave valve motion on a large cam design, a supercharger affect shall occur, the efficiencies shall be driven upward and the lifters and even the springs, shall be able to walk on a lazier schedule yet even still moving a greater distance faster.. both sides of lifter is expandable not collapsable, and collapsable not expandable, for a straight shot on the opening side of the lobe patent applied for and my name is i am the creator i make all as gods i am, dennis brian llewellyn junior, this means the queen princess king daughter son prince given birth to and born from i am. i am walks with thee and i am walks with ye i am walks, it is i am fly with ye and i am fly with thee. i am is with ye , and ye am with i am that i am

[@PetesGarage]

Fascinating

[@kurtisbiggins4594]

Interesting

[@glennmanchester1568]

Before you even say it 350 hp is my guess

[@landonflynn2779]

When the engine started the closed captions said (music) and i was like “hell yeah brother”

[@PetesGarage]

That's pretty cool

[@salvatoregiovanni8967]

Nice work, but you seem a bit confused about the principles of vacuum advance. Whether you use ported vacuum or manifold vacuum to advance that distributor, when you “stomp on it” as you say, you will get zero vacuum advance in EITHER case. Vacuum advance only occurs under high vacuum (low throttle/cruise positions). The ONLY difference between ported and full manifold vacuum is that ported doesn’t exist at idle and doesn’t come in until after the throttle is cracked open just past idle. Full manifold vacuum exists at idle AND after the throttle is barely opened.

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks Salvatore

[@charlescrockett6208]

WHAT BARE ENGINE BLOCK WAS IN THIS VIDEO? BESIDE YOU @START. BEHIND YOU@END.

[@PetesGarage]

440 MOPAR

[@danoneill2846]

No dis on this engine , only want to point out I have a 2018 V6 Camaro with close to the same HP & in a mix of med speed roads , get 31.5 MPG & plenty fast . Thanks for your videos , I have other projects that I am working on & need some tech help .

[@wolfy9005]

Yeah, it makes similar HP 3000rpm higher in the rev range, with less torque.

[@danoneill2846]

I agree they are different , the V6 will rev up Very Fast ! I am swapping an LT1 from a 1994 Z28 that is close to this engine , it ran very strong . I am adding a carb intake from GM that will up the power some . Like this engine , I just want a good running engine & not a race car . Also has AL heads , looking for pointers to check it out before install .

[@PetesGarage]

Great comment, the goal was just a nice runner, gotta stick with the V8 for the Vette

[@johnderekmitchell1510]

42 years is a LONG time in Tech. terms. Especially when you throw in Computer Control, Turbos and Fuel Injection. Not to even begin to touch on efficiency and metallurgy. My '13 4 banger will walk the dog on my '69 elCo with a gen. 1 350 but which one do you think I'd rather drive?

[@sterlingarcher8441]

Only 30 thousand dollars more too...

[@asambi69]

I agree with all the tips on not wasting dyno time...checking distributor wires carb etc etc. But i have to disagree on the working on your engine while on the dyno. Sure dyno time costs money, but its as close to running in your car as possible and essentially were designed to diagnose problems and tune motors. Not realy till later on were dynos used as 'penis extensions' i.e. how much HP u running.

[@PetesGarage]

That is a valid point. Of course you're working on the engine while it's on the dyno. You'll be swapping carb jets, removing valve springs for break in, playing with rocker ratios. I was talking about wasting time taking things off that shouldn't be there in the first place.

[@GnarshredProductions]

you don't need to swap valve springs for break in on a ROLLER camshaft they don't really even break in at all the wheel on the lifter just rolls over the cam lobe there is barely any friction at all or wear on that sort of a setup. No risk of having a lobe go flat or anything its totally different than the old flat tappet cams and much better.

[@GnarshredProductions]

@@PetesGarage also next time just get a 350 block from a 1990's pickup truck they are already hydraulic roller setups from the factory you can just use an LT1 style aftermarket camshaft and the factory roller lifters tray and retainer setup and save yourself a whole ton of money for the same result.

[@PetesGarage]

@@GnarshredProductions Correct

[@PetesGarage]

great tip, thank you

[@lehmann540]

thats is a lot of high dollar parts to only be getting those dyno numbers.

[@PetesGarage]

It really wasn't. The cam is 1 above factory. The Sniper is an upgrade. It was a relatively mild build for the money.

[@R0yL33]

There's usually no bump in hp when you go fuel inj. You do it for overall driveability: easier starts, part throttle response, fuel economy etc.

[@mountainofeverest3861]

Agreed... threw alot of money at an engine for a really low HP result. Money spent on the heads was completely wasted. There are 10 plus GM SBC factory heads that will support 400hp. Could have run any of the 10 with the stock ZZ4 camshaft and had 350hp.

[@1967davethewave]

WTF? Vacuum advance has nothing to do with performance or acceleration, that is a function of the mechanical advance. It is for fuel economy and is in addition to mechanical advance. All vacuum advance systems are designed to return to zero when the accelerator is pushed because vacuum in the intake manifold (below the throttle plates), or from a ported vacuum source (above the throttle plates) goes to zero or near zero. This is why race only engines run no vacuum advance on their distributors and the more radical engines run the advance locked and the distributor at the desired maximum advance. I could go into advance at high rpm's or with nitrous or boost but on an engine with vacuum advance it isn't supposed to operate under acceleration.

[@PetesGarage]

I agree which I why I was shocker when Holly told me that.