Plasma Cutter Wont Arc / Plasma Cutter Stopped Working

[@jamesr.9239]

Never overlooking the obvious is good advice. Once on the job a repairman showed me a large industrial bandsaw that turned on but wouldn't run. His multimeter showed that all fuses were good but no dice on running until... he replaced the fuses. Seems the fuses were of a type that erode internally instead of just blowing and the saw sensed that they were not carrying sufficient current to start the main motor. That was baffling to me but luckily he knew his business.

[@petestools]

Yea good advise

[@frankstofle3785]

Those tips are awesome on plasma cutters. Thanks Pete from Kentucky (USA)

[@petestools]

Glad you like them!

[@calebtomes121]

Pete, would you look at my "Second" plasmargon fail video? Let me know if you think the arc leard being loose could be my issue. And are your center screws tighter than a ticks butt too?

[@racerguy500]

I just recently purchased a Cut50 and after about 4 to 6" of cutting it wouldn't arc at all. Wait several minutes and it would arc and stop almost immediately. I almost returned it as I was extremely frustrated and had seen others with this same issue. I had wanted to eventually upgrade it to pilot arc so I was curious if it would work that way. I ran a jumper wire with alligator clips from the earth ground clamp to the cutting tip itself. The pilot arc worked and it cut beautifully. I cut several pieces of scrap sheet metal and then removed the jumper wire to test it again. And for whatever reason it has worked fine ever since. That's been a couple of weeks ago and no issue at all since. I even cut a 1/2" plate with it this evening. A 6" cut thru 1/2" plate! And it worked very well. I'm honestly not sure that I will upgrade to pilot arc now. I mean why should I need to? I went from extremely disappointed to extremely happy in minutes. The best part is that when I contacted the company and told them that it had stopped working but I figured it out and fixed it, they were very apologetic and refunded all of my money and told me to keep the machine just as long as I didn't leave a negative review of it or them.

[@petestools]

Great service mate .Now you can buy a pilot arc machine

[@racerguy500]

@@petestools and when I thought I would upgrade, it got stolen. Had it for about 2 weeks. Second one stolen in less than a year. Will try again and hopefully get to keep the next one.

[@zero-waste]

Nice to see Pete mention the advantages of the P80 torch compared to all the smaller ones. I solely use P80 torches on all my plasma cutters. My first plasma cutter came with a type PT31 torch. Cutting two large heavy tractor showels up for scrap metal did cost a handful of nozzles and some electrodes, plus the heat cracked two ceramic outer insulators too. I scrapped the PT31 torch and installed a P80 torch. PT31 is only suitable for cutting thin sheet metal in the hobby shed. Although PT31 consumables are "dirt cheap" and P80 consumables are two to three times more expensive (or"less cheap"), the P80 consumables will last ten times longer on small machines with a max capacity of 40 to 50 Amp. On large industrial machines like my 80 Amp plasma cutter, a P80 torch is a must. Arc ignition with a contact torch puts a lot of stress on the nozzle at the moment it touches the metal, as blowback into the nozzle is almost unavoidable. To recduce the nozzle wear it's important to hold the torch sideways in a 30 to 45 degree angle in the moment of contact, then immediately turn it to a 90 degree angle and start cutting; always from the edge of the metal to be sure slag and molten metal is blown away from the nozzle. Due to the fact that the arc can jump from the electrode to the metal to be cut, it isn't necessary to drag the tip along the metal. On machines 30 to 40 Amp it can be lifted 1 to 2mm, on 50 to 60 Amp machines 2 to 3mm, and on 60 to 80 Amp machines 3 to 4mm. This will save you a lot on nozzles! However, notice that keeping the nozzle tip too far away from the metal to be cut will create a broader arc, resulting in a wider cut, extended cutting time, excess wear on consumables, and a higher electricity bill for you to pay! Aim for an ideal cut of 1mm width. A firm rule of plasma cutting goes like this: "Not too High, not too Low, not too Fast, not too Slow". Also always remember to regulate airpressure and ampere according to the metal you wanna cut: Low ampere/medium air pressure for thin metal, medium ampere/rather high air pressure for medium thick metal, high ampere/max air pressure for thicker metal (manufactures commonly state max 6 bar on non industrial machines). If you intend to cut really heavy steel, i.e. rail road tracks or similar items, just forget it unless you invest in an industrial plasma cutter capable of delivering from 100 and up to 400 ampere. The latter also requires a huge stationary compressor able to supply a tremendous flow of air at a pressure of 10 bar. Everybody say you can't use a touch torch with a stand off guide. Well, you can, by exploiting the ability of the arc being able to jump between the electrode and the metal surface! Take a stand off guide with rollers, adjust it so the tip of the nozzle is raised to the correct height in accordance with the amperage you're gonna use for the actual work task. If you're right handed, thighten the screw on the left side of the stand off guide, loosen the screw on the right side, and remove the right side roller attachment. Now you're left with a single roller stand off guide. When you're ready to start cutting, place the torch head supported with the single roller, as usual on the edge of the metal to be cut, press the button so the air start flowing through the nozzle, then turn your right hand a little in the right direction until the nozzle tip touches the metal and ignites the arc. You immediately turn your right hand, smooth but fast, back in normal position until the torch is upright and supported by the left roller, and begin cutting. This way of using a stand off roller guide will prolong the life of your nozzles substantially. Pete has mentioned some of the advantages of the P80 torch, but he hasn't mentioned the most profitable accessory part for the P80 system! If you really want to give your consumables almost "eternal life", you just slip on the P80 water cooling sleeve. It has a 90 degree quick detach hose connector that can turn freely, thus the thin hose can easily be hold against the torch handle with your hand, or strapped in place with a couple of thin strips. A 5 liter water can with an installed on/off tap valve, placed on top of a shelf, or hanging on a metal frame if used outdoors, provides adequate slow water supply for cooling off the nozzle on my P80 torches, especially when using my 80 Amp machine. Water also helps a little bit to suppress cutting fumes and reduce sparks. Highly recommended. Happy cutting to you all.

[@petestools]

Wow you learn new things every day cheers mate keep making stuff

[@conraddeswardt6286]

Hi Hope you can help. I have a Lincolin Tomahawk 1538 with a LC105 torch. I wish to replace the torch with one that has cheaper consumables. I tried to connect a P80 but it does not want to arc. Apparently it is because the P80 is a High Frequency torch (old technology? ) and the LC105 is not? Is there a way I can make the P80 torch work? Or are there other "Non High Frequency" torches that will work on the Lincoln Tomahawk 1538? Your advise will be much appreciated. Conrad If you do not mind you can e-mail me: [e-mail]

[@conraddeswardt6286]

@@petestools Hi Pete Hope you can help. I have a Lincolin Tomahawk 1538 with a LC105 torch. I wish to replace the torch with one that has cheaper consumables. I tried to connect a P80 but it does not want to arc. Apparently it is because the P80 is a High Frequency torch (old technology? ) and the LC105 is not? Is there a way I can make the P80 torch work? Or are there other "Non High Frequency" torches that will work on the Lincoln Tomahawk 1538? Your advise will be much appreciated. Conrad If you do not mind you can e-mail me: [e-mail]

[@Tater4200]

Mine is the screw in kind. But it wont ark At all unless i leave the electrode HALF A TURN LOOSE?

[@petestools]

check the swirl ring for cracks

[@garyyorke1080]

Just started to use mine it's a cut 50 pilot arc with the p80 torch ..it seems air pressure if too high it wont arc .too low pressure and the same its seems its regulated to what your ampage is set at aswel

[@petestools]

What size tips are you using ? I only use 1mm because of the lower power. cheers pete

[@garyyorke1080]

@@petestools it's a p80 torch so I'll play about with it .I had it at 35 amp and 70 psi and it wouldnt work so turned down air pressure and yee ha away it went ..manual say it wont play if to low air for ampage or too high maybe new regulator or circuit board built in as safety feature..

[@robertlaw8510]

I have the same combination. Brandon Lund youtube has a chart that I have found very useful. From 1/64" to 3/16" use 20 amps and 30 PSI. From 13/64" to 19/64" use 30 amps and 40 PSI. From 5/16" to 3/8" use 40 amps and 40 psi. From 25/64" to 31/64" use 50 amps and 40 psi. From 1/2" to 5/8" use 50 amps and 50 psi. Above that you need a 60 amp plasma cutter.

[@yachtwork]

thanks for the insperation. got it going . I'm in NZ too. cool beans.

[@petestools]

Rock on! cool you got to love nz mate

[@stefanm5636]

Hello Mr Pete, I need your help, I have problem with my plasma cutter, when I press the button for arc initiation it works for couple of seconds, than it shut it self, than,I press again wait for second it starts again, I keep optimal distance with torch, but problem keeps repeating.

[@petestools]

check the spark gap

[@ProudMary53]

Some great tips Pete. Thanks.

[@petestools]

No problem 👍

[@fredpolice2711]

Another great video. Thanks Pete

[@petestools]

Very welcome

[@evanfrucht]

I think I have the problem you mention with my AG60 style torch, where the built in insulator/swirl ring type thing is damaged. I can't find any other info on this issue. Yesterday my machine didn't work right idk why. It sputters and spits and barley cuts, won't hold an arc. I cannot see a crack in the insulation but it is burnt. I did accidentally pull the trigger w/OUT consumables installed which may of caused that... but it was acting up before that too. Any ideas? I'm trying to confirm it's the torch before I buy a new one. Please let me know if there is a way to do that or what you recomend. It's a cheap Chinese 50 amp plasma cutter welder combo BTW. Thanks!

[@petestools]

Hi have you checked your earth lead ? Sometimes that's the issue with no arc.

[@pondacres]

Hey Pete how u doing, hoping you can you drop some quick knowledge my way! I just got a cut50p machine (ag-60p torch) with the pilot arc, and am having some problems. I can use it, but the thing sputters and cuts out completely at times. I tried all sorts of solutions, using the recommended amp/psi settings and also dialing them up/down, and also changing consumables (I'm on 120v, so bought the appropriate ones with the 0.030" nozzle hole). I also used your advice from another vid and put 2 additional air/water separator filters, so I know it's not a moisture issue in the air line. I don't see any cracks in the swirl cup in there, so that's not it. At least Amazon gave me a full refund, so I now have this machine for free, but would like to get it working properly as able. Thx in advance for any help, your vids are awesome, I already learned a lot from you!

[@robertthomas556]

I am having the same issues with the same machine its never worked looking to see if purchasing a P80 handset will help. My current handset is a WSD60 the machine is a Plasmargon cut 50 with the CNC None Touch reading some of the info below a P80 handset may be the answer will be keen to see what Pete view on this is?

[@petestools]

Hi my friend normally if it spits and farts around it will be the power input or air pressure .If your running on 110 volts a assume you can only get 35 Amps out of it? Try turning it down to only 20 Amp and cut some thinner steel see if it stops spitting . If it does you might find you don't have enough grunt from your power supply. Theses machines really suck the juice .When I run mine flat-out it blows my 20Amp circuit breakers in under 60 seconds.

[@petestools]

Hi Robert .It might be worth giving it a go .But make sure you use a cutting tip of .8 or smaller .Because the smaller the hole in your cutting tip the less power needed to generate the plasma stream.

[@pondacres]

@@petestools You're right on about the power thing! I tried it on 240v, it definitely ran better...although it still flickered a little bit here and there. On 120v, 20 amps/45 psi (at least what this machine says is the psi), I could cut through 1/8" with it, but that's me cutting while it sputters on/off. Oh well.

[@roobinhoff]

Thanks for all the videos Pete.. I wonder if you can help me out.. I just bought a cut 50 from amazon.. right out of the box it won’t cut.. has no pilot arc.. it does start up once I touch it on metal but the arc seems weak and torch kinda vibrates... just guessing but I ordered another torch... it’s cheaper than sending the whole machine back... any help will be greatly appreciated

[@petestools]

Sounds like the torch .Are you running the pt-31 torch? cheers Pete

[@roobinhoff]

@@petestools thanks very much for the reply... not exactly sure what torch came with it.. but I ordered a PT-31... it has the same consumables ( the ones that can be put in either way)... I will definitely try the new one and hope that fixes the problem... thanks again Pete.. cheers from canada😀

[@devilplaysgames6118]

Have a plasma cutter was using it and now it's blinking green light and not showing display of numbers using cut50 plasma cutter any help please 🥺

[@petestools]

Hi sounds like it has tripped the OC circuit .You might have to take it in for servicing.

[@cowfrank]

How do you eat soup with that mustache?

[@petestools]

I TAKE IT OFF TO EAT SOUP

[@reloadnorth7722]

@@petestools Bahahaha, right on

[@philg27]

You needs to just speak normally to the camera

[@petestools]

yee haaaaaa