Petzl NEOX Modification

[@HowNOT2]

I got a good name for it! Neox + 😅

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@@HowNOT2 love it! It might stick!

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

For now we call it the springless NEOX

[@BenbowBoulders]

I've been using my Neox for TRS without modification for last 4 months. I trail a micro traction on a sling under the Neox. It acts as a stopper knot if Neox slips (which it hasn't yet) and is also a redundant backup device. What like about this set up is that I can zip back down and do another lap without ever disconnecting Neox, and also Neox has minimal drag compared to doing same with GriGri. Obviously has much more drag then two Micros or other progress capture setups but I really like the safety of never having to change over devices, and I do many quick laps on the same route for endurance training. If I was projecting hard climbing I would use different system or on very steep routes its not as good but TRS on steep routes is just trickier anyway. Thank you for the video, I will definitely be getting another Neox to modify to experiment with for LRS and belaying others!

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Yes it works well on TRS as I found also that it needs less weight on the rope to feed through compared to a grigri. (the grigri is aweful for that) With the springless NEOX, it feels much safer to go on TRS... You say the NEOX caugh all your TRS falls before the Micro Trax hits it? How many falls have you taken? Having some weight on the rope makes it pretty likely that it will catch right? Thanks for the comment!!

[@BenbowBoulders]

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I have taken maybe 30 falls on that system, intentional and not. most of the unintentional falls were high on routes so had added rope weight, but even the intentional falls a couple meters up, the Neox caught because of the 10 or so meters of extra rope in rope bag clipped to bottom for weight. I think the Micro and carabiner also help a little with weight and keeping rope in breaking position. And trailing Micro on shoulder length sling keeps it completely clear of Neox which I like for multiple reasons. Of course if Neox just vaporized suddenly it would badly shock load Micro since it's on a sling, but I'm not worried about my device magically exploding. I train on some manmade routes on a couple local bridges because we don't have good rock close by. So I climb the same 7 routes over and over the last few years and most are dead vertical and have no rope abrasion issues. Before getting Neox I just used my GriGri with no backup and extra weight on bottom. I figured I'm training anyway so the extra resistance was ok with me. But now I won't go back to GriGri for TRS. I still use it to lead solo up to set my rope though.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@@BenbowBoulders Great explanation! Thanks! Your experience is valuable and in line with what I know and have been hearing.

[@AndyKirkpatrick50]

I hate to be "that person", but I think this video could be the curse that keeps on giving.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@@AndyKirkpatrick50 thanks for your insights Andy! Will PM you about your MM&I book!!

[@larungoscope]

Petzl needs to make a springless neox. Mission critical for lightweight rope access/rescue.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@@larungoscope yes please Petzl call me and we work on something! I would agree!!

[@hugovaughan]

Try an RD2. But you never get past the single-person weight limit with this class of device.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@@hugovaughan 800g? Double of the Silent Partner? Double of the LOV? Sounds out of my league!!!

[@Phil8686]

They do. It is called grillon... Or if you decide to go cheap then do the same to a normal grigri. Once the spring is out, the wheel of the Neox does nothing...

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@@Phil8686 I like my modified NEOX more than the grigris to belay a lead climber. I don’t own a grillon yet. Do I understand you well?

[@szabolcskiraly6323]

Hello Yann, dangerously good content 😅 Have you tried or tested the MadRock Safeguard (the one without a spring)? Do you have any experience with such a device? Kindest regards and just keep on testing.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

I do own one. It is almost good for Lead Rope Solo climbing. But the rope can sometimes sneak behind the tab that prevents the rope from going under the handle. Not good. Makes sense? Otherwise I managed to LRS some good climbs with the safeguard!!

[@gavyndame3700]

Cool video play safe everyone

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Good comment! I concur!

[@Pablols7]

So this basically turns it into a regular grigri? Is there any advantage of this modified NEOX vs GRIGRI+?

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@@Pablols7 Not really. Closer to a grillon

[@dirtbagproductions6561]

Cool. But how does it feed for LRS? The challenge typically is finding the right balance between good feeding and fast braking.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

It feeds ok when you get used to it. This modified NEOX can always fail if you fall upside down. But the catch is pretty immediate if you fall "rightside up". All in all a really good option for LRS if you ask me! But is it the best out there? Maybe for some people! It depends. I cannot wait to try side by side with a grigri plus that is all the rage right now...

[@prusiker]

Great Yann!

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Thanks so much!

[@7171997007]

I’d love to see you show how the modified neox feeds slack in a shoulder harness lead solo configuration. Will it short rope? Do you see any disadvantage to this modified neox compared to gri gri? Seems like the only downside is that you can’t lead belay ATC-style? Love your videos.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@@7171997007 the modified NEOX works well in a LRS held upright configuration. You have to pull purely from the chest so it doesn’t short rope you. The grigri let’s you pull more at an angle because the spring fights the lock. But once you’re used to the NEOX, it works really well! The main advantage might be in the TRS configuration. Tied exactly as a rappel setup, the modified NEOX will let rope through with minimal weight on the fixed rope! I will experiment more with all that and put everything in the online courses!!

[@climberevan]

Argh...now it looks like I'll need to buy yet another device!

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Well stop buying devices and start with my online courses! That way you will narrow it down quicker to what is the best for you! Makes sense ;-) Find them here: blissclimbing.com/online-courses/

[@camstorrs]

I’m curious how this mod differs from the grigri plus in TR mode? I’m assuming the Neox spring mod has significantly less spring tension than the gg plus in TR mode? I’m also curious how the Neox reduced friction while feeding will change allow the rope to feed without “waking” the locking mechanism. Thanks for a great video!

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Absolutely! The feeling is also a bit different because of the wheel and other subtle differences

[@liamd01]

How does this mod differ from a standard Grillon?

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@liamd01 I don't know since I have never touched a Grillon. I know the theory about it. I would love to get my hands on a grillon. I will find someone who has a sleeping Grillon that I could borrow for a few runs! Thanks for the idea! But hey! The Grillon kit starts at 325 CA$ around here. The NEOX 200 CA$, the Grigri Plus 180 CA$ and the Grigri (2019) 145 CA$... So the Grillon has a steep price for what it is! But bottomline: all devices are different. You need to get used to them and know their limitations. Especially hard if you are TRS and LRS climbing if you ask me.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@baybaymaus I have never heard of it but I am pretty sure some people have toyed with it!

[@bobsthea]

if i got the money, i'll go for grigri +, if i get richer then am now, i might modified my neox

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@@bobsthea thanks for the comment!!

[@petertheduke1]

why not pull it out completely?

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

I wish I could do that! Without breaking anything!!

[@petertheduke1]

​Lol I love the mod actually but I somehow can't convince myself just yet maybe I can take the spring out with less wedging😂​@@YannCamusBlissClimbing

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@@petertheduke1 Craig Spaulding from Sic Climbing will come out with a blog post on how he did it. I know it is different.

[@Axabraxa]

Do you have a link to his blog? Google gives me nothing on that..

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@@Axabraxa the post on the mod of the NEOX is not out yet sicgrips.blogspot.com/?m=1

[@martonandras2245]

Jesus

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

LOL!! Shock and disbelief. I totally get it!

[@cydrow]

Petzl company doesn't seem to think deeply about the needs of their customers. They make what they want and let the customers follow them. From the first Grigri model to the latest Neox, there is no innovation. It seems like a marketing technique with a little design change without innovation. I applaud your research and efforts.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@cydrow wow I don’t see it like that. I don’t believe Petzl has the same focus and the same goals than mine, hence the different results. Gear innovation is difficult because there is so much to make but because the future is not visible to us, we are blind looking for stuff. So we sometimes run into good things mostly by accident. Trying stuff. Petzl makes incredible gear I find. I wish they sent me some for free but that is it. They are at the forefront of gear development! My 2 cents. But I really like to read your comment!

[@daanschone1548]

I think the Neox is especially great for people that have trouble lead belaying with a Grigri in the correct way. Which are plenty. Also the grigri does tend to cause shortroping once in a while, even if you are practiced on it, but your rope is a bit curled or something. So the Neox is a great innovation in my opinion.

[@daanschone1548]

But yeah innovations between the first and most recent grigri are small and often not worth the upgrade I agree.