pH for Hydroponics 101

[@stokbrkr]

I'm learning a ton here. No one has ever mentioned the diluting my pH solution before you. It makes perfect sense. Thank you.

[@jfssparky]

to much ph in your coffee

[@sommerverley7177]

I absolutely loved how fast he talked as this keeps me interested and I can watch about 10 of his videos compared to one or two of somebody else’s

[@cmdarling77]

Everest you are the man! There are levels to this and you are the Standard at the top in my opinion. I've filtered through hundreds of grow videos on KZbin and nothing compares to yours. I appreciate the detailed and straight to the important info approach. It's quick and to the point and can be a bit overwhelming but I prefer that to the unscripted rambling dialog most other videos have. Your videos have helped my learn a TON and I just wanted to let you know you're killin it and PLEASE!!! Keep up the good work brother 🙌🏽

[@newwindowsmediaplayerw2iqc790]

charlie darling j

[@Just4Growers]

Despite it taking me six years to see your comment, I really appreciate it! Thank you for taking the time.

[@jrickelmann07]

Man. You're something else. I wish college was as informative and easily fluent as you are. All the key points and several rabbit holes to venture down. Superb!

[@Just4Growers]

+Joshua Rickelmann Thanks Joshua, appreciate your kind words and hey--we are just getting started! Glad you're along for the ride :)

[@Just4Growers]

Sorry JTE. I hope you check out pH102 where I slowed up a bit!

[@forrealforreal8723]

Is the ph range the same for coco as soil?

[@wldchyld]

Andrew Trullard your a fucktard. Shut up if you have nothing good to say.

[@victorfox9623]

Thank you for not wasting my time with this fast paced crash course. Saves time and I didn't get bored. Actually learned something.

[@Just4Growers]

You're welcome Victor-glad somebody appreciates the pace at least! ;) Lol.

[@emilymarie9796]

Normally I wouldn't be able to absorb information this fast but I've been scrolling about for so long trying to find the answers to my questions and this mile a minute explanation is exactly what I needed 😂

[@veganvampire9084]

Another great video Everest, I didnt know about not adding PH down directly to the nutrient solution. Makes sense now. Man that grow room is looking awesome and wow those pepper plants. :)

[@ivealwaysbeencrazy1313]

Thank you very much for the information. Might I ask to slow it down a touch? Again. Thank you

[@UnconventionalPotato]

So does anyone know if the bluelab doser mentioned dilute the ph down/up before adding it to the mix?

[@Playerized12]

This is my first hydro. I am so nervous and excited at the same time. I have done alot of research on hydro but when i think I've learn a little bit i find me something else to study. Thanks for tips!!

[@Just4Growers]

You’re welcome. The pH series really needs an update soon.

[@EW-sr5bl]

Living in West Texas, it is a major chore to maintain and control the pH. Since I am working with "City Water", the level of difficulty is increased. I spend too much time maintaining the water. I would love to have a RO System but currently can't afford it. Any additional uploads on water treatment and control would be great. I am very appreciative of your videos. Great Job!!

[@Just4Growers]

+E Watson Thanks E Watson. I would definitely suggest investing in a water softener for your tap water. They are available at big box stores for a very reasonable price and can be fitted easily to treat all of your incoming water. Water softeners replace your calcium and magnesium ions with potassium and sodium. It's an essential first step when dealing with hard water. (I understand your pain!!!) Other than that, collecting rainwater during the winter is a must.

[@nyzkrk514]

finally found all necessary details in this video that I ve been looking for a long time , thank you so much

[@davidnewton3064]

How much do you need to dilute your ph adjuster before adding to your solution? Even a fairly dilute ph adjuster seems to give me that white cloud you speak of.

[@Just4Growers]

+David Newton If you are using pH up adjuster (sounds like you are) then I would dilute it 100:1

[@mgtbrodie]

Thanks for responding, for fertilizer I have both water soluble and liquid concentrations, water soluble formulas : 9-45-15 , 12-5-18, 0-42-28, and reverse osmosis specific 13-3-15 and for liquid part a 2-7-9 and part b 1-6-6. Both the part a and the 12-5-18 have FeEDDHA iron. All my fertilizer s are made through spontaneous nucleation which result in super clean ionic formulas. They hold ph very well and make far more gallons than the retail fertilisers.

[@Just4Growers]

mgtbrodie Wow, that sounds very interesting! Do you make these fertilizers yourself?

[@emmanuelfebres]

Amazing video, invaluable tips, new subscriber of course! 🤘🔥

[@Just4Growers]

Thanks Emmanuel! Really appreciated :)

[@OmikronPsy]

Where does the interpretation of the grow zone as pH= 5.2-6.5 in the nutrient availability chart at 3:09 come from? As far as I can tell from the chart a pH up to around 7.2 is just as good as your grow zone. Meaning everything between 5.2-7.2 is more or less equally good. This is a quite large range, so as a non-professional hobbyist why dealing with exact pH measurements? As long as you are just under or at pH=7 everything seems fine according the data you showed. So if your not a scientist or commercial large scale grower, this whole pH fine tuning seems like totally overcomplicating things.

[@Just4Growers]

+OmikronPsy I promise to go deeper into this Omikron. A pH of 6.0 works best for the majority of species. (Cucumbers enjoy a slightly more acidic pH.) Remember a pH of 5 has 100 times more H+ than a pH of 7. Keep it at 6 and you won't go wrong.

[@OmikronPsy]

Thanks, keep up the great work!

[@sMileHighCity]

At like 4:25 you state to never add ph up or down directly to your 'nutrient solution'. Is this to say not to add it to your reservoir? Im a bit confused. Are you saying I should take the amount of ph adjuster I am planning on using to water before I dose the res? Please advise. Thank you and love your channel

[@Just4Growers]

+sMileHighCity Hello amigo, a good practice is to dilute your pH adjuster 1:100 with water and then add that directly to your reservoir.

[@sMileHighCity]

Everest Fernandez damn. I've been doing it wrong for years. Thanks for the heads up. Cheers 🥂

[@arizona111]

Solid! What's up with the added drippers on the aeroflo? Do you like the aeroflo? I considered buying one, but yikes they are expensive so I built one out of 5" square pvc fencepost. So far so good.

[@Just4Growers]

+arizona111 yes I like the aeroflo. Quite an investment though. I used drippers at the start until the roots came fully out of the pots. That's all.

[@loadapish]

ive been wondering about this for months... you can use viniger or lemon or lime juice to bring yr ph down correct? but to bring it up what do i use in the uk? baking powder or bicarbinate of soda? we dont have baking soda. wtf? is baking soda and bicarbinate of soda the same? would it work? or is it baking powder i need?

[@soulseeker42388]

Not just hydroponic my dude... your waters ph plays a huge roll in how a plant does in even just a plain water grow not just hydro. But love the videos been missing them so watching more on repeat.

[@kv7927]

Everest, solid information and I'm curious of your thoughts about applying nutrients to turf grass. Would you recommend the same ph levels or maybe something different? I've seen another guy shoot for 5 ph when applying fert and such, but that seems low to me. Thoughts? Thank you!

[@Just4Growers]

5 is low. Between 6 and 7 is optimal for most.

[@kv7927]

@@Just4Growers Thank you

[@dethyl]

Would calcium magnesium precipitate still be available in a soil grow??

[@ushersports3076]

thanks for the info. What should the PH range be once you add all of your nutrients to the water

[@Just4Growers]

+Ushersports - aim for 6.0 and you'll be about spot on for most hydroponic applications.

[@HSQ786]

i will appreciate if you add the link for buy online this all equipment website...thanks

[@Just4Growers]

Whereabouts in the world are you Haroon?

[@HSQ786]

I m in malaysia

[@iheart3dprinting951]

Does Iron EDTA (FeEDTA) precipitate out of solution permanently if the PH is accidentally allowed to rise to 11.0 for a period of less than 1 minute. Trying to fix a Basil Iron Deficiency in my kratky system. I would just add another dose of Iron EDTA but it lowers my PH too low and I will be forced to push it back up. I want to avoid dumping the water out as I am learning and sort of want to see the outcome of letting it go either way. I am frustrated but curious. The time it was at a high PH was very short, the PH was diluted before adding back in, just didn't realize I didn't lower it down enough. I cant find this answer, is Precipitation of Iron always permanent or does it self correct when values lower.

[@Vermino]

I've followed your videos from start to finish - coming from the "R/O, do you really need it?" Video from a SERP. It's amazing seeing you change over time from your video production; to how you speak. I work in aquatics and all your concepts still are true to concept in my field with growing plants underwater. Anyways, Keep up awesome videos Everest and maybe you should look into affiliate linking or sponsorship. You promote alot of products and can get some $$ from your video content. Especially the review on the 8" inline fan video.

[@Just4Growers]

Jesse Matz Thanks for your kind words Jesse-oozing positivity and encouragement! (It really means a lot, thanks again.) I'm glad my vids are appearing in some search engine results and I hope you will consider subscribing to my channel. Yes, I understand that there is a lot of crossover between aquatics and hydroponics-I'd love to learn more about the former, for sure. I love to share my passion online and plan to leave a veritable digital legacy for future generations of growers! Thanks again for stopping by and keep in touch! Peace and happy growing and aquarium-keeping! (Is there a word for that? Lol!) Everest.

[@valeriesanchez3074]

I want that coffee blend

[@loonyloony6550]

Dont kniw if I missed it. But you suggest using diluted ph down or up, how much do you dilute it first?

[@Farseer1995]

As always fantastic video Everest. You really helped me understand the fundamentals of pH. Keep up the videos!

[@Just4Growers]

Thanks Farseer. I have more practical pH-related videos in the works which build on this foundation. In fact my next vid will be right up your alley I think. :)

[@Farseer1995]

+Everest Fernandez (Just4Growers) then I can't wait for it. Keep us posted. :)

[@scottstreeter4555]

what if after mixing my nutrients into my one gallon of RO water pour a small amount out in a 4 or 5 oz. glass test it meter reading 6.7 I want to be 6.2 add PH down to the mixture that I poured in the 5 oz glass then pour that back into my gallon stirring mixing that together then test that. Instead of using more water to dilute the PH wouldn't that change my EC and my PPM? After watching Mr. Grow It video I no longer noticed the cloudiness in my mixture but i dont know if any of the nutrients being locked out. My plants are not showing any kind of decency. No yellowing or dead leaves. I grow in coco choir, I water with RO water keeping my PH between 5.8 to 6.3 and I'm into my 6th wk. of flower. I us to watch your videos years ago when i first started growing my computer crashed couldnt remembered your name then i watched Mr. Grow it link to your video heard the voice stop it and click on Subscribed button. I'm really a happy grower now. Thank you for sharing your knowledge..

[@mgtbrodie]

Have a question, if using rockwool as substrate and been feeding using a fertilizer that requires ph down is it ok to feed with a fertilizer that requires ph up, or is it going to mess up the rootzone?

[@Just4Growers]

mgtbrodie Hi Mgtbrodie. Thanks for your question. The answer is right there-rootzone! That's where our thinking should start with this one. Basically, as long as your input nutrient solution is somewhere between pH 5.5 and 6.5 and contains the broad spectrum of dissolved mineral salts necessary for healthy plant growth, you're good. How you get there is your prerogative. What sort of fertilizer/s are you using?

[@heyitsboris4759]

mgtbrodie .

[@edkubinski]

I like the upgrade you made to your aero-flo 18. Might have to try that myself.

[@keithhebert6680]

What makes my plant leafs curle down

[@keithhebert6680]

?????

[@Just4Growers]

@@keithhebert6680 Hi Keith, typically this will be due to high EC (nutrient concentration) in the root zone. Try flushing through with a dilute nutrient solution, say 1.2 mS, and make sure you measure the EC of the run-off. This measurement will tell you a lot more about what is really going on in your root zone.

[@Huskie-]

That first 53 seconds at the start...pure ace...as always.

[@joshuaglover3480]

So do you dilute the pH up or down that’s used for the Blue Lab pH Auto Doser?

[@Just4Growers]

You don’t have to because the amounts it doses each time are so small but I dilute anyway, even when using with a doser, and have a small recirculating pump running in the reservoir.

[@joshuaglover3480]

I run Current Culture RDWC systems so I have the pH doser injecting directly to the epicenter bucket right from the bottle undiluted. So should I dilute the pH solution? And if so at what rate. Also when the pH starts drifting I typically purge the doser and switch to pH UP. Should I be draining and replacing the water in the system when the pH continues drifting like this? I typically exchange the water every two weeks.

[@Just4Growers]

Joshua Glover I checked with Bluelab and they agree that you’ll be fine using undiluted pH adjuster because the dosing amounts are so small. If you’re pH is within 5.5 - 6.5 range then you’ll good. I’m surprised you have to add pH up when the nutrient solution is a little older - when your plant uptakes cations it will exude OH- to balance the charge, making your pH rise on its own. Obviously, uptaking anions has the opposite effect - and nutrient manufacturers try to balance these (nitrates and ammoniacal nitrogen) for added pH stability. What’s your water source?

[@Just4Growers]

Joshua Glover PS great system you’re running!

[@joshuaglover3480]

I use RO water. I have a Hydrologic 300 RO with all the add ons (UV light, KDF filter and De Ionization Kit) I think the pH might drift because my air pump that’s injecting air into the buckets might be inhaling some of the cO2 omitted into my work room from the grow room and breathing. Working on getting a better air exchange into the work area so the pumps don’t suck in so much cO2. I like the systems still in the process of getting all the parameters dialed in fully. The rate of growth in RDWC is extraordinary. I have them under the Fluence SPYDR X Plus LEDs.

[@Straitnet]

Just wanted to give a big thank you for all your videos...by far the best series on the web when it comes to helping newbies learn this stuff :) Oh and on another note..there was an old PC game I used to really enjoy called You Don't Know Jack...if you haven't heard of it or played it you should..your voice and style of talking totally reminds me of that games host :) Thanks again.

[@Just4Growers]

+Straitnet Thanks Straitnet-I'm not familiar with that game - do you mean this guy? kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJ-nd4V5bbCgfJo

[@unknowncuyler5449]

wow way to break it down.. soo clear. so simple. you sir, are very intelligent.

[@Just4Growers]

+unknown cutler Thanks my friend-these videos are a labor of love for sure.

[@haccprof]

What do you mean by dilute PH adjuster. Always added PH Down right from the bottle. I'm transitioning from soil to hydro

[@Just4Growers]

+haccprof Hi Haccprof. Thanks for your question. I always recommend diluting your pH adjusters 100:1 before adding to your nutrient solution. Not only will this make it easy to apply in smaller, precise amounts making over-dosing a lot harder, it will the situation where a high concentration of acid hits your nutrient solution and causes localised precipitation, rendering those nutrients unavailable to your plants.

[@kornshadow097]

I've seen contradicting things about order and precipitation... Some say to add in by PH... Others say by type of ingredient... Silica first(wait 10-30m), base fertilizers second (using one's containing P first), then cal mag and the rest after (enzymes etc).. So how do I know what's right? I've had issues with using fertilizers for hydro a while and at first it was ph down and having gunk in my water filters (200 mesh) but I'm unsure if it's just bad stuff or precipitation... I use Humboldt's secret and they don't disclose anything and ignore emails... I ph'ed every ingredient today and it confused me even more since they range from 1.8ph all the way to 11.75ph... The order they are mixed isn't ph based from. High to low...

[@Just4Growers]

Hi there @kornshadow097 thanks for stopping by. Humboldt's Secret don't respond, do they!? Ah well. Order of play: Add the silicon product first. No need to wait so long. Just mix it in well. Then add your cal/mag if using. Then, if using a three-part base nutrient, add the micro first, then the grow, then the bloom. Stirring well between each one, of course. Next, add any boosters or additives. Finally, check pH. Once you've dialled this in, and you know how much pH adjuster you use each time, you can actually add the pH adjuster first (before any silicon!) but most folks do the pH at the end. :)

[@randomramdom8704]

Can liquid co2 be added to the nutrient tank.Will the plants roots absorb co2?

[@Just4Growers]

Carbon dioxide has no liquid state at standard atmospheric pressure. The gas turns directly to a solid at temperatures below −78.5 °C (−109.3 °F) - adding CO2 in this state would freeze your nutrient solution. Water can absorb some gaseous CO2 and can form carbonic acid. Some investigators have claimed that plants do not benefit directly from dissolved CO2 (Stolwijk et al., 1957; Skok et al., 1962; Splittstoesser, 1966), a number of experiments have produced significant increases in root growth (Erickson, 1946; Leonard and Pinckard, 1946; Geisler, 1963; Yorgalevitch and Janes, 1988), as well as yield itself (Kursanov et al., 1951; Grinfeld, 1954; Nakayama and Bucks, 1980; Baron and Gorski, 1986), with CO2-enriched irrigation water. Misra (1951) suggested that this beneficent effect may be related to CO2-induced changes in soil nutrient availability - indirect rather than direct. Arteca et al. (1979), for example, have observed K, Ca and Mg to be better absorbed by potato roots when the concentration of CO2 in the soil solution is increased; while Mauney and Hendrix (1988) found Zn and Mn to be better absorbed by cotton under such conditions. It has also been suggested that CO2 concentration plays a major role in determining the porosity, plasticity and charge of cell membranes (Jackson and Coleman, 1959; Mitz, 1979), which could thereby alter ion uptake and organic acid production (Yorgalevitch and Janes, 1988). If I find more recent research I will post it here and we can, of course, always experiment ourselves. :) thanks for your question.

[@randomramdom8704]

+Everest Fernandez (Just4Growers) I seen a bottle of co2 booster in a bottle at a pet shop for aquarium's and thought if i added it to my solution to get bigger yields.

[@Just4Growers]

+rodd darroch Hi Rodd, I would not recommend it. It would be far more beneficial to ensure there is adequate dissolved oxygen in your nutrient solution with an air-pump and air-stone.

[@kornshadow097]

How much do you need to dilute acid to prevent this issue you mentioned 25%,50%?

[@Just4Growers]

Dilute the acid 10:1 - ten parts water to one part acid solution.

[@NoahNobody]

Best explanation I've found on the subject.

[@SaiyanDom]

I've built a "Vertical A Frame" Hydroponic System that atm can grow 150 heads of lettuce for example in a 10'x8'x7' space. I decided to go hydroponics vs. aquaponics to bypass the need for fish since I'm a raw vegan/inhumane reasons and also because I discovered the use of diluted sea water to supply the full spectrum of elements to the fruits/veggies for optimal nutrition and low maintenance simplicity. I haven't planted it yet because I'm still trying to find a natural way to control the PH up and down without chemicals and relying on a manufacturer for supply. I don't believe baking soda or vinegar to be very effective long term having to adjust daily. I've thought about using my own blood-plasma filtrate (urine) but my friends and family are turned off by that idea and won't eat them if I do even though I'm the only one who eats raw vegan and doesn't take pharmaceutical drugs... They'll accept fish/unhealthy cow excrement's but not healthy human... smh -_- I'm about to say screw them and just do it anyway. Any suggestions besides 'PH Up and Down? Thanks in advance!

[@jacobsnyderofficial]

Another good one. Follow ups always. Straight to the point for the win!

[@Just4Growers]

Jake Snyder Thanks Jake. Follow-up is on the way. I think it's really important to dive right in there. For me it's a question of respect for people's time! I certainly appreciate you taking a moment to check out my videos and channel and hope you will consider subscribing too. Thanks again for stopping by.

[@elizabethsellner5798]

Hi! Brand new to this, and haven't even received my system in the mail yet, just trying to be on top of things when they arrive. When you say to dilute the PH up or PH down solution before adding it, what exactly do you mean? Just throw a few drops into a cup of water for a few minutes before putting it in to the reservoir? I just got an aerogarden farm, so it definitely wont be as intense as your room but still need help. Thanks!

[@Just4Growers]

I usually make a 1:5 acid:water solution (adding acid to the water, not the other way around) - stir and you can use immediately: remember to wear gloves and eye protection when handling acidic and alkaline substances.

[@gladiatusphilip019]

did you make this?

[@Just4Growers]

***** I did-I hope you enjoyed it! Thanks for subscribing to the channel last year too. Much appreciated.

[@gillmccuddy]

So I've always been under the impression that when I mix the ph up into my water and nutrients it's being diluted then and there. I know how much I generally use should I just put it in the water first?

[@Jcole000123]

More advanced video followup PLEASE!!!

[@Just4Growers]

***** Thanks J Cole. I received many requests publicly and privately for a 102, 103 etc, so it's already in the works. Watch this space or, better yet, subscribe to the channel! Thanks :)

[@Jcole000123]

Everest Fernandez Awesome, look forward to 102,103,etc

[@dave14647]

thank you for sharing this very well made

[@Just4Growers]

Thanks David.

[@markandrewgriggs2294]

How do you feel about Advanced Nutrients PH Perfect nutrients? Is it an incredible breakthrough in Hydro Nute technology or a gimmick for noobs who don't know how to balance their PH?? Please tell me what to think great leader.. No really, I don't know if it's worth it or not.

[@Just4Growers]

+Mark Griggs Hi Mark. Thanks for your question. pH stability over the average lifecycle of hydroponic feed solution has everything to do with how you *buffer* your solution. Any company or individual can simply include additional acids into their bottled stock solution and consider / label it "perfect” or whatever but the trick is *maintaining* that solution's pH for the reservoir's lifetime. Practically speaking, there will be inevitably be some necessary correction of pH with any water source as there are always different ions in solution: some help with pH stability (calcium carbonate) and some do not (silica). For me there is currently no easy alternative to proper end-user runtime pH control using a meter and adjusters other than a calibrated automatic doser.

[@markandrewgriggs2294]

That's a solid response. Thank you for your time and your videos!

[@jarhead7758]

So is this just for hydro or all mediums

[@sorrymane]

so whats a good ratio to dilute the pH solutions at?

[@Just4Growers]

1 part pH adjuster to 10 parts RO water would be ideal. You can go more than that-the more you dilute, the easier it is to dose accurately and gradually.

[@sorrymane]

@@Just4Growers i have a problem id like to get your input on. i mix 58 gallons of dry salts. in flower (where this issue occurs) i use a ratio of CaCl2, CaNo3 and an NPK mix. initially i pH’d my water up with potassium carbonate and it was calling for 350mL for the 58g and in less than 24 hrs the res would become cloudy and the bottom would be covered in a pastey substance, i assume some form of fallout. so i switched to potassium hydroxide, preferably because the res only calls for 55mL. i dilute the 55mL of potassium hydroxide into 5 gallons of RO and slow pour it into an actively mixing res scoop by scoop (2000mL scoop). the problem is that i get cloudy water in less than 24 hours still (albeit far less than with carbonate) and now a dusty, crystalline white substance around the walls of the res/bottom. this is also far less aggressive than using carbonate but its still there none the less. if i were to mix my res the same way and just not pH the water at all, it wouldnt get cloudy.

[@Just4Growers]

@@sorrymane Thanks for your comment, but sorry to hear about your problems. Some of the potential precipitations that could result from the salts you are using include: Calcium phosphate: Mixing calcium (from CaCl2 and Ca(NO3)2) and phosphate (from the NPK mix) could lead to the formation of calcium phosphate (Ca3(PO4)2), which is an insoluble compound that can precipitate out of the solution. Calcium sulfate: When calcium (from CaCl2 and Ca(NO3)2) reacts with sulfate (from the NPK mix), it can form calcium sulfate (CaSO4), also known as gypsum. This compound has limited solubility and can cause precipitation. Calcium carbonate: Adding potassium carbonate (K2CO3) to the solution can raise the pH and cause the precipitation of calcium carbonate (CaCO3) if there is a sufficient amount of calcium ions in the solution. Calcium carbonate is insoluble and can cause issues in nutrient availability. Calcium hydroxide: Mixing calcium ions (from CaCl2 and Ca(NO3)2) with potassium hydroxide (KOH) can lead to the formation of calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH)2). This compound has low solubility and can precipitate out of the solution, especially at higher pH levels. Magnesium precipitation: If your NPK mix contains magnesium salts, such as magnesium sulfate (MgSO4), it could also form insoluble salts, like magnesium carbonate (MgCO3) or magnesium hydroxide (Mg(OH)2), when mixed with potassium carbonate (K2CO3) or potassium hydroxide (KOH), respectively. To minimize the risk of precipitation, be sure to mix the components in the correct order (get your calcium salts in solution first, then add this solution to your main reservoir), maintain stable pH levels, and keep the nutrient solution at an optimal temperature. Finally, I presume your TRACE ELEMENTS are included in your NPK mix, right?

[@Just4Growers]

When making your calcium and NPK stock solutions, try heating the water to 40°C (104°F) to improve solubility. It's essential that the salts are properly dissolved to minimise the risk of precipitation. What pH are you measuring before you add pH adjuster?

[@sorrymane]

@@Just4Growers so i found the answer i was looking for from one of the owners of the nutrient company .. “That’s most likely calcium phosphate and/or calcium sulfate precipitation. At a pH above 6.0, Ca and P/S have a much easier time reacting with each other, and there’s a lot of all of those in CropTech intentionally. CropTech is balanced to be applied at a 5.5-5.7 pH range in rockwool, coco, and most amended peat products (like Pro Mix) and the availability of each nutrient ion for plant uptake at that pH was taken into account when balancing all the inputs to make the formula. The higher the pH goes above 6.0 (and especially above 6.2), the more that reaction can happen, and cold water increases probability. If you lower your batch tank pH to 5.6, I bet we’d see that cloudiness and residue at least mostly go away. Potassium bicarbonate is a much more stable pH Up product too. Morr sells that as well, and it’s a dry powder so you aren’t paying to ship water. It has a natural pH ceiling because it’s a true buffer and not just an alkaline chemical. No matter how much you add, pH really never goes above 7.0 as long as there’s fertilizer in there too. Actually adds alkalinity (bicarbonates) to the water that help it resist pH change once you reach the number you want. Carbonates and hydroxides won’t do that, and don’t provide that stability in systems using RO that really need it” i personally would have never guessed to go into flower at such a low pH in coco

[@guilhermepaula6496]

i always use 1.25 or 1.5 to watch videos, but with this guy, i actually had to use 0.75 cuz his mind is just in another level i guess

[@NewzAndReviewz]

Everest youre the shit!! Making grow life simple and understandable while adding good humor you rock

[@amandaball4595]

that was a great video! thank you! so much info no BS!

[@hallmaker31]

Love all your videos. Your nutrient availability chart shows phosphorus and potassium seem easier to uptake at 6.0, and I'm planning on lowering my ph to at least 5.8 for the majority of flowering because that is what seems to be recommended. Even Calcium seems to be taken easier above 6.0, which is needed to make bigger fruits, I believe. Is lowering the ph to 5.8 for Magnesium or something I am not seeing?

[@Exfog]

Awesome info man, thanks for the video!

[@loadapish]

what can i use? bicarbinate of soda or baking powder?

[@Just4Growers]

Hi Dave, can you tell me explicitly what you are trying to do? Raise, lower, buffer?

[@loadapish]

+Everest Fernandez (Just4Growers) to raise ph. i dont have baking soda in shops here and im pretty sure thats what you can use in the us. we have bicarbinate of soda or baking powder on shelves here and i dont have a clue.

[@normanhiggs8451]

Baking soda is the same thing as Bicarbonate of Soda. Baking powder is Cornstarch with Bicarbonate of soda added.

[@loadapish]

Norman Higgs thank you for that. ive been wondering about this for a long long time

[@propertyservices1]

1 of my favorite utubers...

[@Just4Growers]

Thanks buddy. Appreciate your support all these years now!

[@ilariavitali8409]

Your videos are great! super interesting and very well explained! thank you!

[@nvsnovisad2640]

This is useful. And easier to listen and follow if you play it with 0.75 speed.

[@jorenellenbroek]

Great video, very informative and accurate! More depth into the topic can only yield happier subscribers (and plants!) Thanks Everest

[@Just4Growers]

Porums Thanks Porums. I'm already working on it. pH and nutrient availability is a fascinating topic!

[@Juggernautss_]

can you add a link where to get those pH meters?? thanks.

[@Just4Growers]

Sure. www.bluelab.com/where-to-buy

[@atomizer2665]

PH up is typically potassium hydroxide, it doesnt contain phosphate ;) Use nitric acid for PH down, it wont mess with other elements like phosphoric acid does.

[@drkstr611]

Barry Allen you’re talking so fast my ears are bleeding

[@Just4Growers]

I’m here for you buddy.

[@joeg5414]

Can't please everyone. If he talked slower you would have people recommending to speed the video up to 1.5.

[@710Chri]

I’m watching at 1.5 speed

[@sbyers1978]

Nice vid, would definitely like to see a follow up on this.

[@Just4Growers]

Steve Byers Thanks Steve. OKAY! You asked for it! Lol! Actually, you're among many who have contacted me asking for a follow-up. I think we need to go DEEP into this subject because it's really, really fascinating-but I wanted to cover by bases (no pun intended) with a 101 video first and gauge the level of interest from you guys. So pH 102 is on the way. Thanks for subscribing last month too :)

[@sbyers1978]

I was mostly curious if this (optimum ph) holds true for all plant varieties or do say peppers like it a bit more alkaline then tomatoes. Like I mentioned in one of your other videos I do salt water fish and coral and ph is kept at about 8.1-8.3 I dose large quantities of soda ash to keep it basic, so kind of interesting to me plants like it more acidic and all right in that range. Things as common as just letting fresh air in the house by opening windows will change my ph slightly as well in the tanks.

[@Just4Growers]

Steve Byers Optimal pH varies between different plant species, growing technique and growing media. I intend to explore this subject more deeply using some practical examples so you can SEE the difference optimal pH makes. As always, I will try to go into the WHY? as well as the WHAT? Stay tuned Steve! :)

[@DJMD32]

I noticed you said "We" say... are you a chemist too?

[@ryanvermooten4940]

bluelab are spamming your page. special. Guess it could be worse :) I was wondering, when adding PH up or down should you just add it to a little bit of water on the side and then add in slowly? Basic question but really not too sure :)

[@Just4Growers]

Ryan Vermooten Hi Ryan. Yes, I just use a quart of water and add a capful or so of pH down to it, mix, and then pipette this dilute mixture into my nutrient solution. It makes for more finer applications of pH down and I avoid any localized spikes in pH.

[@xxdeedee]

i live in london.. can i boil the water buy bottled water?

[@Just4Growers]

xxdeedee smith Greetings DeeDee. London's water is not known to be all that pukka. ;-) Have you tested the EC of your tap water? I bet it's 0.4 or more. If I'm right, I'd look to getting an reverse osmosis water purifier. They're cheaper than you might think and you don't need to call a plumber to install. Really simple. Boiling water will kill bacteria but it will not remove chloramines, heavy metals or carbonates / bicarbonates. Sure you could buy distilled water but it would be far more cost effective to go the RO route. I've seen them available for under 100 quid. :)

[@nicolenajera974]

Awesome video!!.. I use RO water and dilute my pH down to 1.0 but noticed I do need to used a lot of my diluted ph to bring it down..🤔 can you post a video that tells us more about hard water thank you

[@Just4Growers]

A video on hard water is LONG overdue Nicole. Thank you so much for the righteous prod!

[@glendapalafox8032]

Any tips for growing strawberries? Fairly new to hydro and using an NFT system. Biggest issue is that my strawberries are growing deformed and they begin to ripen when they are still small. HELP PLEASE! I'm losing my mind lol

[@Just4Growers]

Glenda Palafox Hi Glenda. Thanks for your question. I shared it on our Facebook group (check it out if you can) to see what other members had to say too-to summarize: Deformed and small berries are usually the result of poor pollination. To be shaped properly every pistil must receive pollen. Use an electric toothbrush to aid pollination. Try running your NFT 15 mins on, 15 mins off. The plant can't flower and fruit properly when its roots are always wet. Keep pH around 5.8. Hope that helps. Info courtesy of the Just4Growers community. Come join us!

[@Greenfiend420]

I wish more companies would adopt the research done at advanced nutrients. Basically all of the nutrients are chelated in their pH pefect line up which eliminates precipitation between 4.0 and 8.0 pH. I have seen my system go from a fresh res change of 5.7 pH, up to 7.6 and back down to 4.5 all within a 24 hour period. This process becomes faster and faster as the flowering stage progresses due to the increasing nitrification of the beneficial bacteria. Plants have never been greener and healthier. pH is a headache to manage and after witnessing what the plants ACTUALLY want to do the medium has opened my eyes to the erroneous approach of pH adjustment. Plant roots are pH adjusting machines and the root tips can be as low as 4.0 pH. But when we measure closer to 7.0 pH in the main res we try to take it back down manually even though the rhizosphere is capable of doing itself. Problem is if any NON CHELATED nutrients are inside the res and the pH is allowed to sway they will permanently precipitate. By utilizing advanced nutrients you can CONFIDENTLY rely on your PLANTS to add the appropriate anions/cations without risking any precipitation what so ever. Let your system slide up to 7.6 and as low as 4.3 pH (my limits so far) and let's see what happens to the plants without chelated nutrients. The science is solid, and my experience has been eye opening to the futile battle we are waging on our plants rhizoshpere.

[@Just4Growers]

TheKushKronic Firstly, thanks for sharing your views on pH management in hydroponics. Your experiences certainly underline the fact that all hydroponic growers should test the pH of their nutrient run-off, as well as the pH of their reservoir, in order to better ascertain what is actually going on in the root zone. Regarding chelation, the important elements that require chelation are the micro elements, iron, manganese and zinc. As far as I am aware there are very few professionally blended liquid nutrient brands out there which DON'T use chelated forms of these minerals in their solutions-thus I would take with a pinch of salt any claims of "uniqueness" in this regard eminating from any nutrient brand's marketing department. These micro elements are bound to usually EDTA, DTPA and other chelating agents, however-it's worth pointing out that if concentrations of chelating agents becomes too high it can actually cause cell lysis (cells to break open and spill their contents out). As for nitrifying beneficial bacteria in hydroponics-I'd love to delve deeper into that. Which bacteria species are you referring to? Thanks for stopping by and please don't forget to subscribe for regular updates. Peace and happy growing, Everest.

[@Greenfiend420]

Everest Fernandez Advanced chelated ALL the primary, secondary and micro-nutrients. Quote from their site: "Not all chelates work the same in different growing conditions, so Advanced Nutrients has used multiple forms of chelates for individual elements that our studies have shown to be susceptible to lock-out using conventional fertilizer programs. The multiple forms of chelation remedy this common problem". I guarantee that AN has the best science can deliver. The bacteria is also from AN using their microbial line up. Namely 'Voodoo Juice', Piranha' and 'Tarantula'. I could name the purpose and the ingredients on my bottles but going to the site would be more beneficial. Once you establish colonies of these bad boys they transform roots into absolute pristine condition... up to 700% more surface area for nutrient absorption. It's insane. These bacteria will increase the pH during the day and then at lights out they begin the nitrification process which lowers the pH much more than they increased it during the day. Once the res settles in at about 4.5 pH there are no more fluctuations. Within weeks 1-3, every time you change the res and set it to 5.6 pH the bacteria raise it during the first day to as high as 7.6 pH. They lower it every night until week 6-8 when the res reaches ~4.5 pH steady. It will be just a single night after res change to hit ~4.5 pH during weeks 6-8. The entire rhizosphere appears to like being in this acidic environment from the get go. As the roots start dominating the available space the colonies do also thus allowing them to control the surroundings very quickly. This is from my own experience. I take what AN has claimed to have done with the science and apply it to my own plants; these are my observations. I may not have the right theory as to the actual behavior regarding roots and bennies but I know the empirical data does not lie and the numbers are what I observed. Also check out AN's "pH Manifesto". Good read.

[@Just4Growers]

TheKushKronic The use of fungi and bacteria in hydroponics can be a polarizing topic among growers and it's certainly one that I would like to delve deeper into. As for chelated primary and secondary nutrients-there could be some potential confusion here. Sure, amino-chelated potassium does exist and, theoretically, amino-chelated nitrogen can exist. You could, at a stretch, consider amino acids as "amino-chelated nitrogen" since amino acids contain nitrogen, but technically amino-chelated nitrogen and amino acids are two distinct things. It would certainly be interesting to take some store-bought samples to a lab and check for the presence of amino-chelated potassium or amino-chelated nitrogen in some of the products you mention.

[@Meekaa58]

Hehe its fun listening at 1.5 speed

[@mgtbrodie]

I'm actually using tap water with an EC of .4 that has some carbonate and bicarbonate ph 7.5-8.4 depending on which formula I am using RO formula is the only one I use with RO water. And the rate I mix per liter depends on plant size and age. The liquid concentrates last along time one gallon will last over a year where as fox farm gallon or advanced nutrient is gone before iv even close to harvest. And there is no precipitation with water soluble or liquid concentration they stay in ionic form even with no pump moving water. We had a jar sit on the window never separated stayed ready to use, over two months just sitting there. Where fox farm and others you can hear the good stuff on the bottom of gallon if you shake them. My fertilizer doesn't need shaking. Holds ph and most importantly is super clean. 93% percent of commercial professionals don't disagree, the others just haven't heard.

[@Just4Growers]

mgtbrodie Thanks Mtgbrodie. I am fascinated by hydroponic nutrients (no surprise there!) and intend to delve a lot deeper into them during the coming months, especially metrics of quality. (stability, solubility, etc). I'm glad you're here as it will be awesome if you could chime in from time to time with your thoughts, suggestions and experiences. Peace and happy growing, Everest.

[@will227inyoface2]

Hey guys can someone help me out here? Im new to gardening and decided to feed my soil plants with General Hydroponics. For a month I've been adjusting the PH BEFORE I add my nutrients to my water. Today for the first time I tested my PH AFTER adding nutrients to my water and got a PH of 4.1!! So I tried adding a bunch of PH-up to try and get it up to a PH of 6. But after using large amounts of PH-up Im still only getting a reading of like 4.3! What the heck is going on???

[@Just4Growers]

William Spaulding Hello amigo. Nutrient stock solutions are intrinsically acidic, so pH adjusting your water before adding nutrients is your principle error. You should always add your nutrients first and then pH adjust / and then, only if necessary.

[@deathbat61591]

I love your vids man you get right to the point

[@Just4Growers]

+Joe G Thanks Joe! Hope you're subbed.

[@gl5747]

what happens to ph of the nutrient water while we circulate itr to plants (ph drops to acid or increased to base)help me plz...

[@burmese434]

What should I do if my ph goes from 6.1 to 5.4 or lower within a week or so?

[@Just4Growers]

Keep an eye on it. This happens to me all the time when using RO water. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jIiZg5J6j6aqhMU

[@Mrtrunks]

yea I'm going to have to watch this a few times, but a lot of good info on your channel. I hope to start a system sometime soon

[@Just4Growers]

+Matt Rodriguez Do it Matt! You won't look back! If you have any questions you know where I am-always happy to help if I can. Peace, Everest.

[@Mrtrunks]

Thanks, I have a few more things to get and I hope to start in the next few weeks

[@Mybwain]

I can't find the other video about ph meter care. Your channel videos aren't arranged in any order.

[@bringithard6721]

Hi Professor Fernandez, I say Professor because I always feel schooled while watching your videos. Which I appreciate very much, I thank you good Sir. Can you recommend any good books on horticulture, one that dives deep in to the whys of plant science? perhaps certain classes you can think of that helped educate you on these topics? I find your videos fascinating and would like to read and learn more. Ps 3:13 that chart is killer! how do you come across things like this?

[@PianoXfan1]

I can't find a solid answer for growing in soil and pH. A lot of people say you should pH your water/nutrients to around 6.5 or so then water and test the run off. Others say soil is a buffer and therefore you shouldn't alter the pH of the water you're giving them. Can anyone give me a solid answer with some form of proof to back up the claim? The internet is an amazing place for information, but it's also filled with tons of bad info.

[@Just4Growers]

Hi PianoXfan1, you ask an interesting question. Plants are well adapted at regulating the pH themselves. The pH in the rhizosphere (the space immediately around the roots) can differ from the pH of the soil (called 'bulk soil') as a whole by up to two units. (i.e. Your bulk soil may be pH 7 but in the space immediately around the roots it could be as low as 5.) Higher plants extrude H+ ions in order to drive nutrient uptake-and this lowers pH in the rhizosphere. Rhizosphere pH may also be influenced by the release and uptake of HCO3-, respiratory CO2 and microorganism activity. Personally, if my water is over pH 7.0 I start to worry about iron uptake, especially if it's full of carbonates and bicarbonates. I would suggest a purer water source or pH adjusting to 6.5 - I'll try and dig out some literature to support this claim.

[@PianoXfan1]

I didn't expect a reply from you, whom I consider an expert in growing. I will take your advice! I appreciate the quick, helpful, and detailed response.

[@ashleighcahill151]

Get yourself a soil pH tester it should be between 6.5 - 7 ...keep your water between the same numbers ...also be sure to air off your water to evaporate chlorine and fluoride

[@sunshineart.2000]

Can I use lemon juice to down Ph?

[@shaneparwey]

How to dilute ph up to not make solution cloudy? Using “cyco ph up” and this stuff clouds like crazy!

[@Just4Growers]

Ah yes, that’s most likely calcium precipitating out of your solution! Nooooo! Always dilute pH adjusters with water before adding to your res.

[@vikramsinhzala6405]

Very useful contacts

[@davidquintana8395]

So should I PH before or after adding hydroponic chemicals >>> HELP... I know what PH is.. But am a bit confused as when to PH test the water before or after chemicals. ??????

[@Just4Growers]

***** Hi David. Thanks for your question. It's a good idea to know the pH value of your source water before adding anything. At least then you know your pH starting point. Then add your base hydroponics nutrients, part by part, stirring thoroughly after each addition, then let it sit for five minutes before testing the pH again. You'll probably find that your pH is now lower than when you started out, but this depends on your water quality / content. Once all your nutrients (and any additives) have been thoroughly mixed in, you should then verify that the pH of your nutrient solution is within range. If it's not, add diluted pH adjuster, mixing thoroughly, until it is within range.

[@davidquintana8395]

Thank you Everest... I have been doing it right then.. YEA for me... Thank you so much ... I have had the strangest thing happen. On my out side project. One plant had a limb that just wilted and dies.. The plant it fine just the one limb.. I had to cut it off.. Ever seen that ?? Peace and thanks again...

[@Just4Growers]

***** It could be a burrowing insect that has disrupted the vascular link to that limb. I wouldn't worry too much but check the rest of the plant for insect infestations (particularly under the leaves near the affected part of the plant)

[@davidquintana8395]

Now hole plant is wilting.. Water fine and all well but wilting badly.

[@Just4Growers]

***** Oh dear. Sorry to hear about your plant woes. Temperature high, humidity low? Does it recover when not in full sun?

[@k-hz2742]

You are an absolutely GOAT 🐐 Bless you 🙏🏿 xx

[@loadapish]

Yr a funny man, if for instance you are growing in coco coir and clay pebbles potted and you suspect a root problem and you dose it with h202 along with your nutrients. Would you ph adjust nute solution and then add h202? The solution quickly deoxiginates and ph returns to what it was, am i correct? Also if you made up your solution and ph adjusted then let it sit with an airstone and pump for an hr or even a day or 2. Would u ph again before feeding to the plants?

[@deezmunsamy9739]

Very informative videos. I am having to adjust my ph everyday using ph down, it always goes up to a ph of 7. My tap water = 80ppm ph=8, so surely this cannot be hard water. Is this normal to experience such fluctuations in ph everyday?

[@Just4Growers]

Thanks! Your pH rising in a recirculating hydroponic system is normal and good. It shows that your plants are uptaking cations and exuding OH- ions back into solution. Nothing to worry about. Just stay on top of your pH correction and reservoir change-outs.

[@J.Livermore]

You Rock Man!, keep sharing the Word!!

[@caseyturner8773]

So much info in such a short time

[@furioustortoise9828]

Water in your reservoir is actually CONSTANTLY fluctuating between H30H20HO. This reversible reaction only approaches the serenity of dynamic equilibrium when pure. But when solutes are involved, an inconceivable number of localized fluctuations occur at all times to reconcile pH. Imagine 103 septillion (1.3x10^26) individual water molecules per gallon... got that?! Cool me either. 😓

[@Just4Growers]

+Furious Tortoise that's awesome FT and well stated.

[@furioustortoise9828]

+Everest Fernandez (Just4Growers) thanks! I only got through organic and quantitative by imagining a great and ancient war over electro-negativity. ⚡️💧BATTLE OF THE IONS 💧⚡️

[@Just4Growers]

No thank you sir :) It's a pleasure to discuss this crazy stuff with you.

[@noremakes]

Love your excitement!

[@Just4Growers]

Thanks Noremakes. pH is exciting to wrap your head around!

[@CriticoolHit]

Really good.

[@srenbinderupmadsen5048]

Awesome!! You're fast but I just love your videos. Keep it up Everest 😃

[@Just4Growers]

Søren Binderup Madsen Thanks Søren! I get so excited about this stuff. Sorry if I made your brain hurt-as I know English is not your mother tongue. If anything needs more explanation or clarification just let me know.

[@craftgrow]

Good info thanks

[@aliensource884]

Grow organic you dont have to pH. If you were considering not having to hassle with pH meters. Just some quick advise.

[@harryramsbottom1385]

There is a local company here that makes region specific nutrients for tap water. My tap water is 366ppm. I know people who have used them before with success, otherwise its RO water

[@plstrom]

very very good !

[@Just4Growers]

+plstrom thanks, please consider subscribing :)

[@plstrom]

Everest Fernandez i did lets see if was worth it

[@Just4Growers]

+plstrom thank you!