(Pt 1) Customer Spent $1000...Car STILL BROKEN!? (Buick GM ABS MALFUNCTION U0074)

[@SouthMainAuto]

Cool video Ivan. My next step would be to back probe at the ebcm on the same wire that feeds both of those two sensors with one channel. My second channel I would probe at the closest connector inline that you showed on your diagram. And then just as a precaution on my third channel I would throw a current clamp around it. Start it and let it run and see if I had lost power on either channel one or two. Or if the line was shorting out I think I would see it with the current clamp. After that based on the data gathered I would make my next move. But what the hell did I know 😂

[@Ram14250]

Hey Eric! You and Ivan need to do another combined effort video!

[@crisprtalk6963]

New Yorkers, always sticking their nose somewhere.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Yup that's the plan Eric! Pico has 2 more channels to play with 😁👌

[@markymark5281]

​@@PineHollowAutoDiagnosticsI'm not so sure you can trust that Eric O. guy. Just kidding of course. We all know he's the best the PRNY has to offer.

[@bombardier3qtrlbpsi]

​@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics this general mess is in trouble... Two diagnostic wizards ideas on one GM. Those 2 shops will feel like someone falling walking upstairs 😂😂😂

[@mikefoehr235]

That $1000 that this customer spent and had no resolution....well he better call Saul. That shady shop that didnt repair his issue...he needs a full refund. Also should get his OEM parts back JIC they are actually still good. This nonsense is TOTALLY unacceptable. Ivan, you on the other hand make me have faith in humanity...you are super honest and seem to be on the side of the customer 100%.

[@johnlarkin549]

You’ve gotta have some balls and don’t pay for a non fix. 🤷🏼‍♂️. No balls!

[@brianw8963]

My next step is simple, wait for part 2 . 👍👍🇺🇸

[@travissheehan6082]

Stopped returning his calls? I’d be AT that shop with a sign until they returned my money lmao😂

[@MrTonyPiscatelle]

The blood hound has caught a scent and he's about to find the rabbit.

[@robertoruiz7069]

HI IVAN,hope your having a great day.The main thing I'm learning from watching all your vids lately is what ever you do to your car to repair electrical issues or have someone else fix your car is PUT THE OLD FACTORY PARTS IN A BOXand it didn't fix it,that means those old parts should still be functional and probably better that aftermarket parts.Consider this ,when you go to the wrecking yard do you look for factory OR after market,i always go factory!!!The aftermarket is popular ONLY because OF PRICE,at least in my view,great work Ivan.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

@@robertoruiz7069 great comment Roberto! 👌

[@edwinlomonaco6754]

That looks like a bad connection somewhere. I'd be looking for the green crusties. Adding power seemed to have completed the circuit.

[@psychodad1961]

Ivan: This is gonna be a quick one Also Ivan: Stay tuned for part two! I got a feeling this is gonna be a "No parts required" video.

[@catfishsnagger3284]

If a shop screwed me over with a repair like that I would sue them. This kind of crappy business practices with car repairs needs to end.

[@HeyBirt]

"Ya'll rate sensor". Voltage increases the further south you drive. Maine = 0.5V, Texas 4.5V.

[@JeffroDH]

I’d give it the full 5V by the time you’ve hit Waco.

[@disgruntledcanuck]

Love it! Y'all

[@HeyBirt]

According to service data the Ya'll rate sensor is responsible for controlling the 'Cadillac convertor'. I believe it elongates the tail fins first.

[@ludvigericson6930]

Common mistake, the yall rate is actually saying how fast you’re driving south

[@dustcommander100]

I hafta wonder how the EBCM makes the green wire hot. Maybe the EBCM has more than 1 power feed, and one is not staying hot - fed by a relay contact or a green crusty. Or maybe the EBCM has a relay or semiconductor in it that feeds the green wire. Super good video, either way. Can't wait for Part 2!

[@JohnSmith-ug5ci]

People need to start suing these shops to get their money back for just throwing parts at their vehicle when it does not fix the problem.

[@2nickles647]

How that fix the problem

[@truracer20]

@@2nickles647 It would help fix the problem of spending thousands of dollars and still having the same problem with absolutely NO change. It's hard to tell by your grammar if you're so poor that you don't have 2 nickles to rub together or you're a half literate front yard parts replacer. If you're the former I would think you would know how hard a $1,000 frivolous bill is to swallow. But in the off chance that you are a 13 year old child, someday you'll get it.

[@notsureigaf]

Yup, small claims court was made for this kind of thing, as well as CC chargebacks if he used one. I bet they'll start returning phone calls in a hurry when the money gets clawed back.

[@catfishsnagger3284]

​​​​@@2nickles647The problem is that people are getting ripped off by shops that don't know how to do the job right. Suing would help by at least teaching them they can't get away with it. If they can't or don't fix the problem they should keep the money.

[@TheBry_Guy]

Noone likes throwing money around for nothing. I get it. But everyone should get paid. Noone knows everything. You are paying for the shop's knowledge (or unfortunately the lack thereof) and they have to pay for parts as well. If you sued for every comeback, shops would all go out of business or the prices would skyrocket. On the otherhand, partial credits if the shop admits they can't fix it, and/or proper communication with the customer can mitigate all this. Hey Mr. Customer, i'm an hour in and I have narrowed the problem down to this, this or this. would you like me to keep going for another 200$ diagnostic hour? or just replace this 50$ part that may or may not fix it? but ghosting the customer is not the solution, unless the customer is also being an unreasonable screaming Karen. We are only getting one side of the story here.

[@quattrohead]

My brother had a very similar problem on a UK GM vehicle, local dealer could never get to the bottom of it and ended up deeming the car as unrepairable and it was sent to auction. Really looking forward to the outcome of this one.

[@jeremyah78]

Fun one! You make it look easy as usual Ivan! I'd just head straight to the EBCM and see if it's doing the same thing, but I'd continue watching it at the steering angle sensor too. So there's channel 1 and 2 on the Pico. You've already proved there's no short to ground with the test light, so that's covered. If the voltage is good at the EBCM consistently, then it's time to go hunting for the little green monsters starting with the most accessible connector in the circuit. Look forward to Part 2!

[@robertmoura6336]

Good morning Ivan, I would have checked power coming out of the module at first, that would eliminate a wiring problem, being left with either a bad connection at the module or module itself. Amazing work that you do.

[@kerrylewis2581]

Have they started selling "Parts Darts" on the SnapOn and MATCO trucks?

[@aciddiver1978]

Dealers are only able to use the canon. We all know what canon.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

It's not only the dealers...other shops are guilty too!!

[@donho8355]

Yup they call it the money cannon

[@kevinsok3011]

I can *almost* (not quite lol) forgive the dealers for firing the parts canon. Only because the techs themselves are put on a very tight leash, and they're not encouraged or paid to do real exploratory diagnostics. But when independent shops throw the parts canon it's totally inexcusable.

[@tomtke7351]

GM shops are bound to their "Tech Orders" and they cannot be rogue diagnosticians.

[@abderrahimmark]

What I learnt from other great and best technicians in youtube like you are. Is : ALWAYS CHECK YOUR POWERS AND GROUNDS Before you condamn a module. It isn't really that rocket-science.

[@dkupy100]

Yes, it is a 14-year-old car. There's got to be some corrosion somewhere.

[@teekay_1]

It probably is for most mechanics. Look... shops love brake jobs. They love flushing coolant. Because these are trivial jobs that every home mechanic can do in 30 minutes and the shop gets $400-500. But the economics of many shops (especially dealerships) is that people bright enough to actually know how to do the abstract thinking to solve these problems aren't being paid enough to do the job. And the guys who can understand this kind of work usually go into jobs like "computer science" or "engineering". This actually isn't a lot different than 20 years ago that when you had an electrical short (which by modern standards is relatively easy to figure out, in most cases) the same problem was happening. Shops hate that work because there's no book rate for that kind of work.

[@RK-kn1ud]

Your explanation of watching for power on the canbus when checking termination resiators leads me to believe you also watched "EEVblog 1622". Lol.

[@neilmurphy845]

Before even starting watching the video there's no better man than Iven to get that car fixed

[@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT]

Interesting case, Ivan! Could be an intermittent connection at the EBCM or in the wiring. Can also be the transistor feeding the 12V at the EBCM. In either case, you're in the right track! Part 2, please🙂

[@100SteveB]

I do not have the gear needed to get even this far, but, having watched Ivan get this far, I think for my next step i would be tempted to check the connector on the main module - looking for something obvious like green crusties or loose pin fitment.

[@fredcroad331]

I know from watching you for a while its not that easy because its a 2 part video. Lol

[@richard3141592638]

great capture with the scope - and watching that voltage come and go on the green wire - should be an interesting part deux. Thanks Ivan

[@claytonolive5416]

Powers and ground to the ebcm! . Great video I have learned so much over the years and it makes me a better diagnostic tech every day !

[@jdavid2437]

I have that exact VOM. Inexpensive but works GREAT, always enjoy your videos. Still trying to wrap my brain around how Ivan does his trouble shooting. Great Video

[@ernestkerley6282]

You know it all dude, we're learning a lot !

[@lvsqcsl]

My biggest issue with this situation is that a shop took this customer's money and didn't repair the car. Then they didn't return the owner's phone calls. If this is a local shop, likely they know about Ivan; they should have returned the customer's money and recommended Ivan. GREAT VIDEO!

[@2nickles647]

I disagree, the biggest issue is the So Called Technician who work on vehicles. Just because you have a Technician attached to your name doesn't mean you are. Even the oil change person has a TECHNICIAN attached to his name. How can a guy that changes oil be a tech? Next is the Janitorial Technicians. They cleanup after every ones mess.

[@fduran6993]

The local shop should address customer directly to Ivan.

[@rodvan-zeller6360]

Great video. The best part was looking at the data bus difference when there was communication or not in relation to the 12-volt supply. My next step would be to look at the supply voltage coming from the EBCM to see if it matches the reading at the angle sensor.

[@disgruntledcanuck]

Check power to and out of ebcm.

[@rodvan-zeller6360]

@@disgruntledcanuck If supply voltage is available is has power in

[@Skandalos]

A kingdom for a button to silence the dong dong dong dong dong...

[@29chevbolenschannel40]

Interesting video and problem. For those who did not have access to a scope they could connect a voltmeter with one lead on the pin that is missing voltage and the other lead connected to the feed point at the brake module and observe if there was a voltage drop when the key was turned to the on position and also with the vehicle running and observe voltage drop. Any major voltage drop (over 1 volt) would indicate a problem in the wire circuit and minimal voltage drop would indicate a problem at the connector or module. The voltmeter is not as accurate a test as a scope to catch a fast glitch but in this case it would probably still show where the voltage problem is.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

That's a good suggestion! But everyone should just buy (at least) a 2-channel scope...costs less than a fancy Fluke DVOM ;)

[@29chevbolenschannel40]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I agree that a scope is a necessity for someone who wants to diagnose and troubleshoot electrical problems on todays vehicles - whether they are a DIY or technician. The sad part is that most want a 4 channel top of the line scope (like the Picoscope as an example) but do not want to pay the price and view a 2 channel scope as a waste of money since it will not do everything they want if they encounter a "what if" scenario (usually need 4 channels to diagnose problems like cam / crank sensors as an example). I was on the fence for a bit myself but finally decided to just purchase a two channel hand held scope / multimeter with decent reviews for under $300.00 Canadian as it was within my budget and a two channel scope is much better than no scope. One of the other problems I think is that a lot of people doing diagnostics still do not fully understand the value of a scope over a multimeter and being able to actually see a "voltage level signal over time as a waveform" (which is what a scope basically does) visually so you can see if there is any fall out, glitches / spikes or noise in the waveform (or waveforms) to better diagnose and determine a problem in a circuit so a vehicle can be fixed with confidence.

[@keltecshooter]

When the mechanic says " we need to start with this part first " means there's going to be a second, and a third, and a fourth and .........

[@hhn2002]

Ok but when you’re dealing with coolant leaks and oil leaks that’s what’s has to be done wouldn’t you agree?

[@teekay_1]

@@hhn2002 Yes, if you see a tie rod end, flopping around, you change a part. If he reads a code with scanner (which even an idiot can do), if the mechanic doesn't bother to read the theory of operation of the subsystem to understand the potential reasons why you'd get those codes, the mechanic is really not providing any value other than having a lift to make working on the car easier.

[@baxrok2.]

Awesome case study. Thanks Ivan!

[@DDescalchuk57]

I like when the wake up call is finally received !

[@kevinbailey4454]

If I'm following this correctly, the fluctuating 12v feeding the two sensors is coming from the EBCM, so it seems like a good next step would be to check for clean power on the D-GN line right at the EBCM itself, while being mindful that this might be a poor pin/socket connection issue so be careful about wiggling things while taking your voltages. In any case, this looks to be pointing at the EBCM so regardless of where it's hidden, you're going to have to get to it anyway. I hope it's easy to access. Looking forward to PT 2.

[@matthewmcmaster2731]

I own a 2006 Chevrolet Avalanche. A similar problem started happening to me about 10 years ago. You would turn a corner and the ABS pump would start to pulsate and the light would turn on. You could feel it through the floor board. The only way to keep it from happening would be to turn the traction control off. What ended up being the problem was rust jacking underneath one of my wheel speed sensors. It lifted the sensor up and away from the trigger wheel and it was not getting a signal. My mechanic removed all of the sensors, sanded off the rust from around all of the mounting holes, then covered the areas with rust proof paint. He then reinstalled the sensors and the problem has never returned.

[@katzenpapa]

Finally you have my exact car in the shop, can't wait to see this!

[@cliff499]

Keep the videos coming!! You rock. I really appreciate the extra effort for recording videos you guys do .

[@StevenDaugherty-uo5cs]

Definitely an interesting one. Intermittent issues are always a pain in the rear, you can't fix it if you can't break it first. This one certainly appears to be a connection issue. Your applying voltage makes things start to work. Id look st the connector to the ebcm next.

[@dosgos]

Oxidized grounds at body can cause odd warnings on center screen (traction control, x keys programmed, steering, etc). Some LaCrosse body grounds were painted at the factory, unfortunately. Our fix was to remove say half-dozen body grounds near the battery, clean up, retighten.

[@russellberreth6513]

Great video, I have a 23 yukon 3 module problems in 40000 km 😡 BUT GM fixed just took 3 days no charge 👍

[@rhkips]

Oh nice! Sleepy logic! Enough power to talk, but not enough power to...power, then you give it some supplemental power and the module is able to recover for a bit. Usually indicative of a failing supply/coordinating module, but good to probe at said module to confirm behavior right out of the source, as a high-resistance connection can behave similarly. Had a good laugh at how the EBCM is talking. It's like a drunk friend, "HEY! HEY! HEY! HEY!" Versus when it's behaving normally, you get "Hey!" "Whazzup?" "Yo!", "Hey!" "Whazzup?" "Yo!".

[@mark-d9k9b]

My next step would be to go to that dealer and independent shop and ask my money back! No kidding man, how come that people just accept a faulty diagnosis and repair without demanding a full refund when it comes to cars?

[@rodneymiddleton9624]

Good job!!!! You're on the right track!!! Thanks!

[@izzzzzz6]

Pine saves the day again. Seems like when there are too many warning lights all of a sudden it's no longer the fault your looking for.

[@knowone6214]

Buick USED to be a Great Vehicle back in the day of Less Modules and good ole 3.6 and 3.8 engines and 4 speed sludge boxes

[@nickayivor8432]

Enjoy your weekend with all your family around you,Ivan,Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Start to finish. I loved it. I can't wait for part two video 👍 WHIP SMART, Ivan,Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 16:38 Good Afternoon

[@gerardjones7881]

next step is follow the trail to the power supply at the brake control, inspect wiring and backprobe the harness at the brake control output.

[@tomtke7351]

I'm an electrical engineer and I'm thoroughly impressed with the using of appropriately sized test lights. Hi impedance, low loading DVM's for continuity testing is fraught with peril. This is ages old knowledge that must not be forgotten. To be a 'good conductor' requires BOTH low ohms and appropriate amp ability (ampacity). Someone should sell such a test set.

[@williamgagnonroadboxservice]

I would check pin fitment at the E CBM if that’s OK then I would put a load on the green wire between E, CBM, and the two sensors to see if there’s a corrosion problem or another connector

[@franklincormorant8312]

Trying to talk to the sensors without providing power? That's like Mom yelling at the kids to eat their cereal when she forgot to get them out of the bed.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

LOL exactly right!

[@LesReeves]

Ha ha just as you said clock spring I was saying it🤣Cheers Ivan see you in part two.

[@johnaclark1]

Next step is to go to the splice J321 or to the module itself and see what the voltage is doing there.

[@Dirtyharry70585]

Follow the green wire for poor connection

[@wald-meister6705]

Next tests: checking this powerline directly close to the ABS module in comparison to the power at the sensor. And checking all powers and grounds for the module under load.

[@cullenmiller8170]

My next step is to get the power probe and power up the intermittent circuit and let the smoke out. 🤣🤣

[@rogertraylor6048]

I would check the ebcm connector for green crustys or loose wire at the plug or water intrusion inside the module

[@DS-ss7vl]

Should have stayed with Class 2. "What do you drive?" "A 2010 Buick Module." Lol!!

[@lawrencehalpin6611]

Thank you for posting this. God bless you.

[@Andy_Hinners]

The LaCrosse didn't sell well in Canada, they had to rename it the Allure as 'lacrosse' is Quebec (french) slang along the lines of 'spank the monkey' if you get my drift.

[@davidclemens1578]

That surprises me it would be considered slang because the sport of Lacrosse is likely where the name came from

[@loubakker5000]

Power and grounds. I wonder, do these dealers watch Ivan doing his thing ?

[@Michael_L_]

Ah, yes, I have seen that CAN behavior before. CAN needs at least two active transceivers on the bus to get message acknowledgments. When the transmitter doesn't receive any acknowledgment, it keeps retransmitting the same packet over and over again.

[@jerryplante5783]

Looks like we'll be re-flowing some solder in the EBCM in part 2.

[@raymondjacobs8429]

Ivan, I just had those basic symptoms on my Jeep, was a speed sensor L/R. removed blew out with air twice, first time it came back, reset wire loom pushing sensor toward wheel bearing, seems to have cured problem.

[@pb3033]

Testing the EBCM

[@timmehlittleloud2251]

Next step(s). Continuity from ABS to steering angle on the green wire. Might be hard to back probe the green wire at the abs module while it's plugged in. Find the X200 connector first or second if it's easier than getting to the abs connector. Would have thought if the green wire was intermittent to gnd there would be a code in the abs but who knows. Feels like a bad connection on green wire. Obviously check pin grips as well as captain Kirk's girlfriend (the green crusty one). I've had this scenario with a bad module before, also had it with a bad sensor intermittently shorting internally - drawing a little too much current and the supplying module shutting power down as well. You have the advantage of decent diagrams in the US. We have Alldata in the UK but it's absolute rubbish compared to the one you have. Autodata not too bad if it has the diagrams but wouldnt have the location of X200. You don't know yr born over there 😁

[@bobwilliamson5574]

Hi Ivan, i just checked out some of your videos frim nine years ago , and man you looked so cute back then 😂 .

[@leeross7896]

green crusty's on the ebcm connector on the green power wire.

[@jeffco908]

I would also disconnect all 3 components on that circuit and load test it with a bulb. One strand of wire can give a good ohm reading but cant carry any amperage. Or test at ebcm by backprobe and see if it lights that would determine if circuit is compromised downstream. That would put area of concern between j321 and ebcm seeing adding 12v at steering angle sensor appears to have brought acceleration sensor on line.

[@haroldhawkins9370]

Nice video Ivan.

[@onenikkione]

My next step would be to buy a six-pack, have a few beers and save a few for part duex (two). I wrench on our cars (maintenance, brakes, etc) but I don't have access to wiring diag's or a PICO scope, or the knowledge to use them.

[@mikechiodetti4482]

Monitor wire from ebcm to bar where it splits to the two sensors. Flex the harness, look for harness/wire damage along the way. It's intermittent so, connector damage or pin fitment, possible rodent damage or corrosion. It's a start. On to part two.

[@kejansenz]

I´m going to take some guesses. Pin fitment issues or green crusties. Also excessive current draw by one of the modules. I would load down the power at 50 to 100 mA with an electronic load like a BK8500B, as it doesn't cause the high inrush current of a test light. As the voltage kind of came back when you bridged the circuit with a test light, i'm tempted to point to green crusties. I'm also curious if you tried the protocol decode function of Picoscope. I've had great success with this on identifying what module was communicating on the network. Usually the lower the ID, the more important the module is.

[@DIYDaveOK]

Omigosh weve got Eric O and Ivan in the comments. Its Christmas!

[@jdesaavedra0432]

My next test would be to jiggle plugs and wires in the areas of the steering wheel and EBCM while watching the voltage. Also load test the circuits involved. From the look of all the shiny parts, the cannon has already been fired.

[@johnt.848]

At the end when you turned the key off and removed it, the voltage dropped slowly, when I expected it to zero out immediately. I'm not sure if that is normal but it reminded me of a faulty capacitor, not that I expect one in the EBCM.

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

One complaint: that darn gong is breaking my eardrums. I wear headphones to not disturb my sleeping wife.

[@keysautorepair6038]

I hate when gms stabilatrack light comes on it’s always a pain in the ace.

[@kenmelrose3429]

Possible Pin fitment, do a drag test and or check for green crustys at connectors

[@richardnilsen8950]

Wire in a temporary overlay feed. button it back up. Drive it if it's normal leave it alone if not do diag in the other direction till you find the real problem

[@bobweiss8682]

Check the voltage output at the EBCM to see if it is constant, or drops out like you are seeing at the sensor end.

[@kevin9c1]

Isolate power feed from EBCM and determine if it has a consistent supply with open circuit. Then try with test lights. Then go after the wiring. It's either the EBCM or wiring.

[@CedroCron]

Quality General Mess electronics strike again!

[@MH-wg6bz]

My guess. Possible high joint that was cleared when you inserted your test voltage. Now it may take awhile before the high joint reveals itself. Could be connectors or module.

[@jeffreyyoung8727]

He's on his game!

[@erisgilliard7341]

Would now look to see where J321 is and if accessible check voltage and splice integrity.

[@petar443]

I think the problem could be "J321".

[@tomtke7351]

Are there benefits to spacing out the segments of multi-part videos? The suspense is killing me.

[@goldfinger6746]

You have seen stange things at the +12v wire see where it goes and take a measurement there if +12v is constant

[@tomtke7351]

Two potentials: (-1-) ebcm (-2-) supply wire Approach: Check continuity between ebcm and sensors. Include strong visual inspections. If good, condemn the ebcm.

[@mikesabin8568]

We already know they have continuity. Remember when he ohm tested the network?!?!? If there was no continuity, 60 ohms would not have been exhibited on pins 12 and 13. He pretty much explained that in the video

[@philliplopez8745]

So many scoundrels out there .

[@jdesaavedra0432]

DTCs are not part numbers. Too many people, techs included, don't get this. A bad connection at a battery connection can throw every code in the list.

[@CuriousB58]

I would put scope on 12v feed and the ground to the two modules and a 300mA load to ground to stress the power delivery side more (put load where scope is connected). I suspect bad connection between the control module and the slave sensor modules. Maybe a corroded or loose pin along the way or a pinched wire in the harness.

[@gasauto1675]

it is an Opel Insignia, two main known problems K73 Telematics communication interface module or Interference with plugs and or coilpack

[@Codadams]

My next test is to call Ivan!

[@Sandmansa]

First thing this customer should have done is return to that shop. They didn't fix anything. They need to fix the problem (for free hopefully) or refund the money. As for Ivan's next move. It's looking like a poor connection somewhere between the ABS module and the SAS. It's time to check the power feed wire at the ABS and work our way back if need be.

[@teekay_1]

At the point that they refused to take his calls, I would have disputed the charge on my credit card. I'll bet they'd take his calls then. This is why you always use a CC to pay for large purchases, even if you have the cash. You have a lot of leverage over the payee.

[@housemaster509]

I would measure the current. Once via the ABS module, once via the test light. Aftermarket sensors may require too much power or the ABS provides too little.

[@DarrelllCampbelll]

I had the same problem on my 2011 buick lacrosse. It was a bad EBCM. My CAN bus wouldn't communicate with the parking brake module and the headlight module and Yaw rate mod. I got an ebay special and programmed it through AcDelco Techline Connect SPS2. But no matter what you do the incorrect immobilizer dtc will be present. It wont make a check engine light but you can only replace modules on GM cars that are global "A" with virgin modules. Been a year and a half and it still driving fine on the ebay used one. It did let me change the vin though. I pretty sure its a EBCM thats bad. Those GM cars have history of cold solder joints. I wish I would have saved my original and just sent it in to be repaired. Ohh and the new modules they are selling for these cars on Rockauto are the wrong part. I tried one a few months ago to get rid of the immobilizer code and it wouldn't work had all kinds if CAN bus issues. Ebay will work. $60 vs $500

[@SHSPVR]

I would check the wire integrity from the EBCM to the other modules It's quite possible that the EBCM circuitry board has a failed trace on it or a bad solder joint which is not providing power to the other module