Pinion Seal Replacement

[@TimmyTheToolman]

*PLEASE READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*

[@jeremygesser3877]

Thanks for the video! Impact wrench was 1000% necessary for me on this one. Also whoever gave the tip or chilling the new seal the night before - I think that helped. I also used some 2” pvc to to help evenly tap it in there.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Jeremy. Good job getting it done.

[@andrewm.4168]

Hot tip for everyone... put your new seal in the freezer overnight first. It will shrink it enough to make starting seal a lot easier. Leave seal in freezer until you're ready to rock, and work fast before it warms up and expands...

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good advice.

[@seydzhchernopiski3122]

I search for a certain how-to, and as always seems like you have already done it. Great job gents.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Seydzh! Did you end up finding some Supra injectors so we can do your SC rebuild? - Sean

[@seydzhchernopiski3122]

@@TimmyTheToolman Ended up going with Motorwest 295CC upgraded bosch ones. Now need to find the time to do it. In the middle of a bathroom remodel.

[@odogutube]

So had to replace a leaking pinion seal. I had issues getting the seal seated. Found a easy solution. I ended up seating the seal by using the companion flange. Just set the seal on the dif, then slide on the companion flange and tap on the flange. Seal went right into the diff housing.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good job!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good job!

[@mech-E]

It is highly recommended that you put some oil on the seal before reassembly to prevent premature wear on a dry seal. Based on experience.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the tip.

[@tr4ilblazin]

What kind oil diff oil? Or motor

[@ChristSoldier86]

@@tr4ilblazin Diff oil!

[@trevormiller8871]

@@tr4ilblazin most likely 75w-90 but check your owner's manual

[@jeffcarpenter6306]

Very detailed video. I wish I saw this before I had it done by Toyota. $440 I had all the tools but the brass rods use to tap it in. Thanks for putting this together.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Well, you know how to do it now if you ever have to replace a pinion seal again. Thanks for the comment.

[@israelrodriguez6986]

I love learning from you guys even if I'm not gnna do this job, I leave with a lot of good info!!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Israel and it's great to hear you're still learning from us. You're one of the Original Gangsters (OGs) of our channel. Glad you've stuck with us.

[@carpetpunter158]

Another great vid mate!! I find with seals like that if if you dont have a round piece to get it started put that brass punch sideways on it and hit it will go in

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like the video and thanks for the brass drift tip.

[@daviddcook432]

Thank you for making this video. I do a lot of my own work but never had a pinion seal issue...till now. Piece of cake, eh? I'll be doing mine soon.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome. Good luck with the job.

[@rmbjr60]

Wow! The attention to little details in this vid is awesome and invaluable. I now know I can do this job and do it right :-) Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you appreciate the detail we offer in our videos. You're very welcome and good luck with the job.

[@weekendclimber]

Good video again! For your viewers, if you have a solid spacer it would allow you to torque to spec and forget. That's only an option on rebuilt 3rd members, though. Zuc and ECGS recommends those as they are less likely to lose preloads on the pinion bearings like the crush spacer in the factory 3rds.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I did not know this and I agree that would be a nice feature to not have to worry about the preload setting when doing a simple procedure of replacing a seal.

[@garybrady7245]

@@TimmyTheToolman your videos are great Very professional. I am experiencing this seal leak on a first gen Tundra (2000 SR5 4x4 4.7L regular cab) right now as I speak I finally got the nut off and in the process of using a 2 jaw puller to remove the flange and it's on there pretty good. My question is was everything OK with your preload when done with this job? I'm not doubting you I'm just a little nervous, being never done any pinion work. But I feel like I should be able to accomplish this. I know this is different but I did successfully complete the Starter rebuild on the 2UZFE engine I have which was by far as I've ever went ( never taken intake off before) and handled it like a champ. And I do know that my nut was pretty tuff to get off by using the 2 bolts and prybar method but I didn't like that I only have a 12 point 30mm right now (ordered a Dewalt 30mm 6 point yesterday from Amazon) I got it removed but think I am going to wait till tomorrow to get my socket to torque it back on. What's your take on that also? Thanks for all the tips I greatly appreciate them

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@garybrady7245 Sean's 3rd member pinion has been fine by us just getting the nut back on in the original spot it was. You just don't want to tighten it further because that would crush down the spacer further and change the preload of the bearing. The 12 point socket should be fine to put the nut back on if you don't want to wait to get the 6 point socket. Doing the 2UZ starter is a fairly involved job so good job getting it done. We have plans to film that in the near future on my buddy Thanh's GX470.

[@garybrady7245]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the speedy response and for your important opinions. Also is there any other rwcommended rear shocks for a long bed like mine . I still have the factory on there but surely they're about done aren't they? And would you happen to know anything about the LSPV BV back there mounted? Like do I bleed it like normal ( I usually do the gravity bleed method) at the very end I heard? Or do I...RR LR LSPV RF LF ? Hope not asking too many questions your the only first gen mechanic I can find and would trust. Thanks again

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't have any suggestions for you for your rear shocks. I'm not well-versed withTundras and don't know a set of shocks to run other than steering you towards brands that I know that are good and affordable like Bilstein. In regards to the LSPV, you bleed that last. I would bleed in this order unless you have access to a Toyota factory service manual telling you otherwise: right rear, left rear, right front, left front, LSPV.

[@exploreraa983]

fyi, if you have a 54mm axle socket, it is perfect for driving oil seals like this.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good to know.

[@stevesucio7790]

I really thought I could do this job myself but I only have a Milwaukee impact. Thanks for the vid! Only thing I didn't see is you marking the flanges to make sure they go back into the same position.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The flanges don't really make a difference. I know the factory service manuals suggests it matters but it really doesn't. You could connect the driveshaft flange back to the pinion flange in any orientation and it doesn't make a difference. What makes a difference is if you separate the slip yoke from the main driveshaft and don't make match marks. The main drive shaft and slip yoke are balanced as a unit and you need to get them back in the same orientation to not throw off the balancing.

[@marxccc]

Hey Tim! Did this job over the weekend. It seemed pretty easy.... until I got to putting in the new seal. That thing was a nightmare to install. It was just impossible to place it in. When I got one side in the other would come out. It would just not go in evenly. So I was forced to ask to a nearby mechanic and he had the same issue. His solution was to grind on the inner side of the seal enough to stop the play it had when going in while being careful not to touch the outside to prevent leakage. He noticed that the seal design has this slight rounding on the inside and it is not completely straight which causes all that play when installing. I also noticed installing the seals on the rear axle gave you a hard time, right? Seems to be a common thing with Toyota seals? Another thing that caught my attention was that the nut holding the flange had almost no torque on it. Like if I had stronger fingers I could have loosen it up by hand. And the flange almost fell off as soon as I loosen the nut a couple turns. No need for a puller. Does that sound odd to you? I just put it back the way it was cause I dont understand that preload thing, but it was not what I was expecting. Car seems to run fine before and after, no weird noises at least.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Just keep an eye on it for leaks. The preload is a weird beast, but getting the nut back to its original position felt right with the torque we were putting on it.

[@youdunce]

use a pipe or large socket to install new seal.

[@ChrisVanSlykeCVS]

Thanks for this video!. After noticing a diff fluid small leak I had the pinion seal changed on my 2015 Tundra by my dealer in January 2023. Fast forward to today and the seal is still leaking. They removed the pinion flange and showed me it claiming there was a worn metal groove as you inspected at 16:50. Since I didn't have a new part for comparison I thought they were referring to the metal grove by the base of the flange but now that I see yours that grove appears to be machined and normal. The technician said I need a new pinion flange which costs about $400 retail. When I asked about what could cause that grove the tech said "a piece of dirt" or the a pin (metal part??) that is part of the original seal got loose. I said shouldn't that grove have been noticed in January when the seal was replaced the first time? and the tech said YES. They are covering the labor and a new seal but I think that I have to buy the pinion flange (ordered by the dealer). The explanation seemed to make sense based on the symptoms but I'd like to get the old pinion to make sure I was being told the truth. When checking the flange I'd want to know how to verify that the metal was worn so that the seal could not work properly.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That seems a little suspect for a 2015 truck. If I were in your shoes, I'd want to take a look at the old pinion flange myself.

[@ChrisVanSlykeCVS]

@@TimmyTheToolman Yes they did show me it but I didn't watch your video til after they put it back on and ordered the new flange so at the time I didn't know exactly what to look for. I was a bit suspect because 3 days after my last oil change in August my skid plate fell off and was destroyed. I found 2 out of 3 bolts that held it on sheered off and one missing explaining why it fell off.. The dealer is paying for a new skid plate $400 so I was wondering if this was a way to make up for that loss.? I cannot say for sure ....but now wish I took a pic of the shaft on that flange. There is 176 000 KMS on the truck. Maybe I'll just get one of those speedi sleeves like some some other commenters here mentioned instead of the $400 flange; not sure if the tech will know about this option or if they will install it.

[@lukeneave]

Awsome video didn’t even know there was a seal there👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Well, now you know. Glad you like the video.

[@JacobAHull-nx6rx]

Great info brother and great camera work shawn..I'm surprised you didn't mark the shaft and companion before you took it apart. So nice to have a great camera man!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the comment. Marking the flange and shaft really isn't important. Marking the slip yoke and main driveshaft is because those are balanced as a unit.

[@gorazorbacks11]

54mm lock nut socket fits over the seal perfectly. Great for driving it in

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the tip.

[@timsr.6706]

Replaced a few of those pinion seals on my old 83 & 87 Toyota 4wd pickups I had.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

So, how did we do?

[@toytoy7032]

Hi Timmy! Nice video! It help me alot! I'm from Greece! My TOYOTA is a LITE ACE mod '89 1,5lit gazoline 5k engine. Have in 2nd member 12mm x 4 bolts/nuts, and 22mm pinion nut! Seal in 3rd is 38/74/11/18,5 same as in video. Seal in 1st is 38/58/11.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We're glad you found our video helpful. I think you're the first person who has identified themselves using our videos in Greece. That's really cool. It's great to know how many people we've reached around the world with our videos. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

[@toytoy7032]

@@TimmyTheToolman is ok if the pinion ''move'' for 2-3mm? Or i have probleme with the bearing? I dont hear anything in the road....

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@toytoy7032 Are you talking about side play in the bearing or are you talking about play in bearing backlash when you twist the companion flange?

[@toytoy7032]

@@TimmyTheToolman Hi again! How can i send you a video 10''from this place? messenger-viber....

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@toytoy7032 Sure, send me a message via Facebook messenger: facebook.com/Timmy-the-Toolman-187780258356012/

[@nabs2714]

Very well explained... thanks 👍

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome.

[@kevindamaso4338]

Great videos keeping those 4runner heathly my needs a oil pan seal I'm not sure where start lol 👍 up from Toronto

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Kevin. To get the oil pan off, you'll need to get the front differential out of the way and we have a video that will help you with that. When we made that diff replacement video we struggled to get the diff out and back in. Since making the video we learned of an easier way to get the diff out and we share this information in a comment we pinned. Once the diff is out, you just have to remove all the bolts, maybe a few nuts, and then use a tool to help you to separate the pan from the bottom of the engine. Then you have to clean up both surfaces really well, use some Toyota Black FIPG (form in place gasket) and get it all back together. Here's a link to the diff video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZDKgZx6q81srJY Here's a link to a good oil pan separation tool: amzn.to/2KaiGuS

[@pjc4425]

Great video as usual , thanks for providing

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks and you're very welcome.

[@vaughnpatterson9551]

About time I found Toyota fanatics 😎

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You came to the right channel.

[@mario_G155]

I knocked the dust shield lose on my rear differential yoke going over some large rocks. Should I replace it and the differential seal while I am at it, or just the dust shield?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@mario_G155 Just replace the dust shield if the seal isn't leaking.

[@akrocco]

Thank you, very helpful!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome.

[@mattedwoods]

Hi did this the weekend and all good but when I replaced the nut back to its original position it’s still lose . Can I turn it a fraction more to not be hand lose then lock it in with a punch. Great videos as always Matt London

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, you could do that. After shooting this video, I learned that the crush sleeve inside the 3rd member takes quite a bit of force to collapse further to change the pinion bearing preload. As long as you don't get on it with a strong impact gun, you won't change the preload by cinching it down with a ratchet. We're happy to know our video helped you out Matt. Happy Wrenching!

[@mattedwoods]

@@TimmyTheToolman you put my mind at ease I can’t tell you how stressed I was thinking I messed it up thank you

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@mattedwoods I'm glad I could ease your mind Matt.

[@Tires4les]

What if the companion flange has bolt sticking out what could you use to pull the companion flange out with? 2002 Toyota Sequoia the outside edge can not be used. I have to use the studs somehow. Thanks for the video

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Put a metal plate or steel strap that can capture at least two of the studs on opposing sided and secure it with two of the nuts. You drill a 3rd hole into the center of that plate and then use a long threaded steel rod that you could affix to the center of that plate with a nut. Then you could use a small piece of pipe or socket slid over the steel rod as a slide hammer. At the top of the rod you maybe clamp on a vice grips or just bolt on another steel plate as a stopper. Now use the pipe or socket and slam it into the plate or vice grips to work the flange off.

[@ToyotaLand4d56journey]

Thank you, I'll be doing this in my vehicle

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome. Good luck with the job.

[@Terry-ww9tr]

Couldn't be better timing. Doing an elocker dif swap and replacing the pinion seal this weekend. Aren't you supposed to count how many turns when unscrew the pinion nut?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You could count the turns just to be sure but we remembered what the nut looked like on the shaft (how much shaft/threads were showing above the nut) and it was pretty clear when the nut got tight and the indented part of the nut lined up with the groove in the shaft that we got it back in the same location as before.

[@jcsully24]

@TimmyTheToolman - Tried this job today on my 2003 Tundra (V8 SR5 4x4 Extended Cab). Could not unstake the nut. The stake was all smashed in and almost fused in the gap from previous work done (not by me). Couldn't get any screw driver or punch or chisel behind it. I tried and I may have made it worse by smashing it in more. It's all mangled in there now. Yikes! Abandoned job for now. I thought maybe a dremel tool to cut it out? It's too tight for a grinder. Any ideas?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@jcsully24 Not sure. Some guys just get if off with an impact, but you do run the risk of messing up the threads a bit. I'd keep trying to get under the staked part with different narrow tools.

[@mx5_4rnr]

Can I take the 3rd member housing off by taking the pinion Flange off then loosen the 10 bolt? I don't know if my pinion seal is leaking or the gasket is leaking.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

To get the 3rd member out, you just have to remove all the nuts that hold it onto the axle housing and you can pull it out. Check out this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kH63k5qPZt2Egc0

[@lazroo]

When you are tapping in the new seal to seat it so its FLUSH with the 3rd member, im curious , you said there is a lip inside , my concern is theres no way to push the seal TOO FAR in correct ? Lol

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, you can't drive the seal in too far.

[@Headfirst-M80]

I did this today. Didnt mark anything, but I pulled the nut. when I put it back on I had to just use a socket, and wrench. I went snug + some and saw the stake in the nut was in the divet. I ended up doing 80ftlbs of torque. maybe more. hopefully not. but im hoping I didnt ruin the crush sleeve. I read that as long as the pinion isnt catching or rubbing its probably fine. what do you think?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're good. As long as you didn't go past where the nut was staked, you didn't crush the sleeve down anymore increasing the pinion bearing preload. If you're really worried, you could pull the axles and put an inch pound beam style torque wrench on the pinion nut and check. I recently filmed some differential rebuilds at the East Coast Gear Supply Company in Louisburg, North Carolina and learned a lot. When ECGS is building diffs, they like to set the pinion bearing preload somewhere between 8-12 inch pounds. You're measuring the rotating resistance, so you get the pinion turning and then read the value as you're rotating. Chase Perry, the CEO of ECGS did say Toyota has a higher pinion bearing preload spec but they don't follow it. Because they know the outer pinion bearing is prone to fail, they run their preload a little lower to take pressure off the bearing.

[@Headfirst-M80]

@@TimmyTheToolman im not extremely worried, but should I just undo the pinion nut, and just do snug in the ball park of inch pounds? Ive heard it takes alot to crush the crush sleeve. But I know I did 80ftlbs. I want my bearing to last as long as possible. So would it be a good Idea to just undo the pinion nut, and retighten it to just snug then restake?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@Headfirst-M80 I don't think you need to do anything. As long as you got the area of the nut that was previously staked aligned with the divot in the pinion shaft, you accurately got it back where it was before. The pinion nut is actually torqued with a very high foot pound spec. When you use a solid spacer and shims, it's recommended to torque it somewhere around 175-200 foot pounds. With the crush sleeve, you're just hammering it down with a 1/2" drive impact until you've crushed the sleeve down far enough to set the proper pinion bearing preload. Don't worry. If you got the nut back where it was before, I think you're good to go. If you crushed the crush sleeve down further, that would mean the area of the nut that was previously staked would now be past the divot in the pinion shaft. I hope that makes sense.

[@Headfirst-M80]

@@TimmyTheToolman alright thanks man, much appreciated. One more thing. Other guys had a washer under the nut. I dont think I did, and it didn't look like you had one either. Did you?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@Headfirst-M80 No washer under the nut. It's a flange nut and flange nuts usually aren't paired with washers, at least from my experience.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Great video very informative Timmy

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Antonio.

[@mattyg7143]

Any major differences in doing this to the front diff of a 5vz Toyota prado 4wd?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm not familiar with the Prado, but it's my guess the process would be the same. The seal might be different though..

[@btain7649]

Very informative. You think you would attempt a regear or Locker install in the future?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

A regear or locker install would be a great video. Working on differentials and doing the work accurately seems to be sort of an art though. Getting the gears meshing correctly, getting the proper backlash and getting the proper pinion bearing preload isn't completely straightforward. There's lots of guys that are competent at turning wrenches that shy away from working on them because if you don't get it right, you destroy the gears and maybe the expensive locker you just installed and you're back to square 1. If I do it, it's going to be on one of my own rigs or maybe Sean's.

[@anthonyrodriguez9666]

Any advice on the 3rd member studs backing out the housing ?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If they back out, you can mostly likely get the nut free by clamping the non-threaded section of the stud into a bench vice and then using a wrench or socket to get the nut off. If you mangle the stud, you can most likely by a replacement from Toyota.

[@anthonyrodriguez9666]

@@TimmyTheToolman you the man

[@TheUltimateCrash1990]

great video

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks! We're glad you like it.

[@Skyder12]

When removing the 30mm but why can't you just apply the parking brake and use a breaker bar to remove? Why do you have to hold the flange with a pry bar? Thank you

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We didn't want to put the force onto the ring and pinion gears when braking the pinion nut free. I suppose the teeth of the ring and pinion are strong enough to handle the force, but that was our thinking.

[@Skyder12]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you very much, that makes sense and I will do that next time. Your videos have helped me quite a bit!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@Skyder12 You're welcome. Good to know our videos are helping you out.

[@Niko-iw1sr]

Aren’t you supposed to lubricate the area where the companion flange meets the rubber of the new pinion seal?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Not a bad idea for the initial turns of the shaft but as soon as the gear oil gets moving, the seal will be lubricated.

[@capturephoto400]

Hi Tim, I know this video is about the seal but I wonder if you have a video on regearing, I’m planing to regear from factory 4.30 to 4.88 just so I can crawl in a more controlled fashion and heavier low gear when coming down a great slope etc…I’ll also be doing a lot of HWY driving to get to the woods… do you think 4.88 is a good idea and if it’s a big job? I have factory installed Elocker and Auto tranny on my 2000 limited. Love the way everything’s running but planing to switch from factory 31” to 33” and will be adding bunch of weight as well… front/rear bumper/winch/boxes etc… Tnx again

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We have a re-gear video coming. We partnered with East Coast Gear Supply to film the re-gearing of my differentials on my 98 4runner. I went from 4.30 gearing to 4.88. I also have a rear e-locker. I'm running 33" tires. But, the reason why I chose to do it with ECGS instead of doing the job myself is because working on diffs is kind of an art that you get better with repetition. It also takes some specific tools that make the job easier. So, you will see a detailed video on how it's done, but whether you can follow the video and get it right the first time is the question. You have to get the pinion bearing preload correct. You have to get the backlash of the pinion and ring gear correct. You have to get the right meshing of the pinion and ring gear by checking a paint pattern and making shim adjustments as necessary. It's a job that takes a lot of patience and detail to get right. My front diff got an Eaton electric locker that we filmed as well. The videos will be out in the next few weeks.

[@capturephoto400]

@@TimmyTheToolman Tnx for that, can’t wait to see that video. are you happy going from 4.30 to 4.88? wondering if you noticed a huge positive difference or if your rpm went up to a point that you didn’t expect? As for now without any added weight and on 31”s I’m about 2000 rpm on flat at about 60 mph but if I go to 70 mph it goes up to 2300 rpm. Am I expecting to see a huge rpm jump once I switch to 4.88? Btw, at this time I’m getting an amazing mpg of about 17-18 mpg even if I stay on 65-70 mph all day on hilly hwy up/down (sounds too good to be true but it is)…! I’m hoping my fuel consumption won’t be going way up, or will it? Tnx again 🙏

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@capturephoto400 I haven't installed the differentials yet so I don't know how it will perform. I'll get them installed this week.

[@capturephoto400]

@@TimmyTheToolman Tnx again, can’t wait to hear what you think of 4.88 Vs. Original 4.3..! Mine may get installed (Nitro 4.88) this coming week along with front ARB locker since I already got factory center and rear locker on this beauty… Will let you know how things go if I do it before your install. Tim Tnx again for caring so much and helping us all… 🙏

[@armandosoria7993]

Is it normal for the pinion to have play with the car in park? I think it might be why my car kicks a bit when i shift into drive.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, some play is normal.

[@armandosoria7993]

@@TimmyTheToolman Damn. Now idk why its kicking. Maybe mounts I guess

[@pitbullluca]

Hi , really good job, but I have a question .... where can I buy, your own repair manual for my toyota hilux ln105 mk3? can you help me ? I see your videos from Italy, thank you very much.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Do a search on Ebay. That's where I bought my factory service manual set. Hopefully you can find somebody selling a set for your rig. I think you might be the first person who's commented that said they were from Italy. Welcome to our channel my Italian Brother! I'm half Italian from my mom's side of the family. I think we might still have some distant relatives living in Sicily.

[@pitbullluca]

@@TimmyTheToolman I live in a city 40 km away from Rome my friend, I have two repair manuals, but yours is much more complete and detailed, when you want and have time, can you write me the name of the book and the name of the manufacturer? thank you very much .

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@pitbullluca I just did a search on Ebay and this is the exact set I own: www.ebay.com/itm/2000-Toyota-4-Runner-Shop-Service-Repair-Manual/131459827095?epid=665287188&hash=item1e9b9dc597:g:30QAAOSw~JRas~-m Back around 6 years ago, I paid closer to $300. I think this is a good deal.

[@SOS-School_Of_Survival]

Hey Timmy! Great as always. What's the OBD II reader that you recommend for 2004 Tacos? And does it have a transmission thermometer Bluetooth to Torque app?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Jeff. You're 2004 Tacoma should provide trans temp info via the OBD II port. Here's the OBD II Reader I have: amzn.to/2BeQUsM I suggest you buy this as well: amzn.to/2WDL4dl It allows you to turn off the power to your reader so you don't have to pull it out every time. The reader constantly draws a small amount of power and could drain your battery if your truck sits for a long time.

[@jimc12]

What software are you using where you get all these blow ups and breakdowns of the various parts? You often use these images in the video thumbnails. I'm going to be rebuilding a 94 4runner and would love to have something like it at my disposal.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

These diagrams are plentiful in the appropriate factory service manual for your vehicle. But a lot of the images used in the thumbnails come from various sources.

[@jimc12]

@@TimmyTheToolman got it thanks

[@Samson-EC]

Why not just use the sleeve to continue pressing the seal in?....jc

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You could but using a brass drift allows you to slowly drive the seal in equally and not drive it in too far with hammer strikes onto the sleeve.

[@Samson-EC]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks Timmy. I was looking at it as I would seating a 4wd front wheel bearing seal

[@curt1785]

What is that to the right of the 3rd member I've had a couple of the older model Toyota and I've never seen anything like that

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's the e-locker actuator. He has an OEM Toyota electric locking differential.

[@curt1785]

@@TimmyTheToolman did it come stock or is it aftermarket I didn't know that the 80's model Toyota's came with a locker like I said I've had a few 80's model and mine never had a locker

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@curt1785 It was a factory option you could get with 3rd Gen 4runners and 1st Gen Tacomas. I don't think Toyota was making e-lockers in the 80's.

[@curt1785]

@@TimmyTheToolman oh ok did he use the whole rear out a 3rd gen or just modify the original. Thanks for answering my questions. The funny thing is my wife and I have the first year and last year of the 3rd gen 4runners and it was not planned when we bought them. Thanks again and I've learned a lot from your videos and you've saved me a lot of money. Again thanks for taking the time to show and help people that it's not that hard to work on your own vehicle. Thanks again and hello from Florida.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@curt1785 His rig came stock with the e-locker from Toyota. Like I said, it was an option you could get when you purchased it new from the dealer. If you wanted to ad one after the fact, you could either swap out the whole rear end for one with a locker or you could get just the e-locker 3rd member but then be forced to alter the axle housing for it to fit into the non-elocker axle housing. You also need to get the e-locker control unit, the switch and then all the wiring required. We have a video for doing an e-locker swap. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3Ldn3qVjNSGapY

[@thelandcruiserproject]

At 19:35 (kzbin.info/www/bejne/n4azfplprpKib6M), do the washers need to go on the bolt head side? That's how it appears they came off earlier in the video (3:05).

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey dude! Great catch’ thanks for bringing this to our attention. We did re-install them incorrectly. It should be the washer next to the bolt head, and nut goes on the back without a washer. I am going to jump under the rig now and fix that now!

[@thebenthermit4067]

I blew out my Dana 44 using this method. Could work for some but could not as well. A used Toyota diff that doesn't leak may be worth the hassle depending on if you want to try it or not. Of course seals cost what $10-15, so it's tempting

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, I guess there is some risk but if you get the nut back to the same position you should be in the ballpark and most likely ok.

[@eddiereyna1155]

What’s the torque on that nut

[@TimmyTheToolman]

There's not a specific torque for that nut. When you set tighten that nut, you're going after the proper preload of the pinion bearing. You tighten a little at a time and check the preload of the bearing. Basically, you get onto the nut with an inch pound torque wrench set it at 14 inch pounds if there's a new bearing in there or 7 inch pounds if it's a used bearing. You tighten the nut until you can turn the companion flange without the torque wrench clicking. So, you tighten a little, get onto the nut with your torque wrench and see if you can move the assembly at the set torque value. If not, you turn it a tiny bit more and recheck it. You keep doing this until you can turn it without clicking the torque wrench. After each nut tightening, you want to turn the flange back and forth to free up the bearing and then get onto it with the torque wrench again. The above procedure is why Sean and I just decided to bring the nut back to it's original position thinking the preload was correct before we removed the flange to replace the seal. I hope this answers your question.

[@eddiereyna1155]

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@eddiereyna1155 You'e welcome.

[@israelrodriguez6986]

Got here first!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good job but we don't have a prize for you.

[@israelrodriguez6986]

@@TimmyTheToolman That's ok, maybe next time there will be a prize lol

[@mark2073]

I was just watching this video from OTRAMM where he shows how to set the pinion preload, like you are wondering about. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z5WylZiDmdiqmZo

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for sharing this. He set the pinion bearing preload with the 3rd member mostly apart though without the ring and pinion gears even in the 3rd member. After analyzing what the factory service manual is suggesting to do, I think all you're doing is measuring the drag of the bearing in the free play between the ring and pinion gears. You're not actually turning any gears when you do it. If I tried to use the guy's technique in the video, I would be turning the ring and pinion along with both axles. There is way more drag with all those components so it makes sense that's not what the FSM is saying to do. But, since this guy had the differential torn apart, he was getting an accurate bearing preload.

[@king49334]

Just sand the polished shaft

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That would take more metal away which is what you don't want. It's not that it would be rough if the seal wore a groove in the companion flange. It's the fact that the loss of metal wouldn't allow as tight of a connection with the seal thus increasing the chance of a gear oil leak getting past the seal.

[@mark2073]

@@TimmyTheToolman I guess you'd have to buy a new companion flange piece if there is a groove? Edit: shoulda watched till the end of the vid before commenting!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@mark2073 No worries.

[@mark2073]

@@TimmyTheToolman Actually there is a speedi-sleeve you can put over the shaft. Napa has them. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bmmupYJmjKt0aLs

[@mark2073]

Except it seems the price of a sleeve is on par with a new flange, not expensive www.cruiseroutfitters.com/lock_pinion_flanges.html

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Lmfao might improve Shawn's looks but not mine lol

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey, you caught that. At least somebody was listening.

[@ProPilotPete]

Great video, blah blah blah

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Pete. Blah Blah back at ya.

[@4wdaddict41]

Should i worry about preload if i have a solid pinion spacer installed ? I was told no to worry but just get it tight.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If you have a solid spacer, you don't have to worry about overtightening the pinion nut and changing the bearing preload. When you have a solid spacer, the preload is set by using shims. Once it's set, it can't change. The only thing you want to avoid is overtighening and stripping the pinion nut or male threads on the pinion shaft.

[@4wdaddict41]

@@TimmyTheToolman thats what i figured but i had to triple check ! Thank you !

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@4wdaddict41 No problem. When we did this job, I didn't know there were solid spacers for this application. If I did, I would have mentioned it in the video.