Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal Replacement

Did our video help you? If so, consider buying us a beer: bit.ly/3feE6tJ
In this video, we show you how to replace the transfer case output shaft seal on your 3rd Gen 4runner or 1st Gen Tacoma. We also show you how to replace the seal inside the companion flange.
*PARTS*
*Rear Output Shaft Seal #90311-41007
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*Companion Flange Seal #90312-23001
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*Companion Flange Nut #90179-22016
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*If you happened to need to replace the Front Output Shaft Seal on your transfer case, the part number is #90311-41012 amzn.to/2sWOldi
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
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*Gear Wrench X-Long Ratcheting Box End Wrench Set
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*Camshaft and Crankshaft Tool Kit
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*Press Sleeve Kit
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*OTC Long Prybar Set - (this set is good when you need lots of leverage)
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*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set - (this set is good for jobs when light to moderate force is needed)
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*Plastic Mallet
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*Brass Drift Set
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*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet
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*30mm 1/2" Drive Socket
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*CDI 3/8" Drive Torque Wrench
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*Crowfoot Wrench Set
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*CDI 1/2" Drive Torque Wrench
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*Red Devil Grease
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*Mini Grease Gun
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2" x 3" Galvanized Nipple
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2" Galvanized Cap
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**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

*PLEASE READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*

[@matthewwall5958]

Great video, it helped me a lot thank you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@matthewwall5958 Thanks Matt and you're very welcome. Great to hear our video helped you out. Happy Wrenching!

[@two_stroke_or_broke9297]

Is the companion flange seal a oil seal also???

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@two_stroke_or_broke9297 Good question. Hard to say but I imagine some gear oil could travel along the splines and get past the end of the shaft so maybe it doubles as a gear oil seal and a dust seal.

[@two_stroke_or_broke9297]

Timmy The Toolman awesome thanks for your reply

[@hectorrivera9894]

You should be an instructor. This is about the best "How to" video I've ever seen. Love the details and alternate methods/tools to use. If you can't do the job after watching this video. You have no business working on vehicles.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Hector, I appreciate the nice compliment. You will find that all of our videos are very detailed to give the viewer the best chance at success. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

[@RyanSeek]

I just completed this project on my 98 Tacoma, but mine was for the front shaft seal. All the info from this video still applied though. Once again, Tim's generous contribution to this world has saved the day for me. His attention to detail is second to none and I feel so much more confident going into a project I've never done before after watching his videos. Tim, you are a godsend as far as I'm concerned. Thank you so much for all your time and effort to help others. NOTE: I did struggle with one part of this job, that being the nut removal. On my truck that bugger was cinched down so tight my breaker bar wouldn't budge it. I bought a beefier and longer breaker bar (20in) and it still wouldn't budge! The only way I could break it loose was to set things up so I could get my floor jack under the handle and use the hydraulic power of the jack to lift (and thus turn) the breaker bar enough to bust the nut free. What a relief to finally feel that thing come free!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thank you for the very nice compliment and thanks for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it very much. I'm happy to know our videos are benefitting you. Happy Wrenching!

[@aaronleavitt8235]

One trick I read on a Toyota forum and have since used is to take a small drill bit and drill out the dent of the staked nut. Can't do this in every location but it's what I used when I replaced my transfercase seals. Thank you Timmy for another excellent video!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Aaron, drilling out the dent probably wasn't something I would have thought of but I can definitely see that it would work. I was lucky I had the right size screwdrivers that I could wedge between the shaft and the indented section of the nut. Somebody commented you could also just take a small chisel and grind it down to the size you need. Glad you like the video. Happy Wrenching!

[@retiredstripes5632]

Outstanding! Thoughtfully made tutorial. Finding multiple solutions if you don't have professional tools is much appreciated. This is the best how-to I've seen yet. Many thanks, amigo.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thank you for the very nice compliment. We appreciate it very much. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!

[@williambb9913]

I was truly convinced I was going to be forced to open up the entire transfer case... of course Toyota would make this easier and cheaper from replacing on the outside. Thank you for you video. Saved me days and hundreds.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome William. It's good to know our video helped you out. Thanks for the comment.

[@hectorrequeno6995]

i want to thank you after running around the parts stores getting different size seals your part#s helped alot more than you will ever know 😂😂 2004 tundra double cab 4x4

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Hector. I'm happy to know our video assisted you. Happy Wrenching Bro!

[@happycat0411]

Great video! Replacing the rear seal on the transfer case isn't too difficult a job. I would think that this would be a two person job for ease and the extra hand would help immensely. Having access to the proper tools before a person tackles the job helps a lot as well. Well done and super easy to follow video! I was also surprised that no fluid came out after the yolk was taken off. That's a real blessing as well. Sometimes knowing what's going to happen in advance prepares a DIY mechanic for what the entire job entails, Letting the person know whether or not the job is overly difficult or the job is really doable for the weekend home mechanic is always a great way to learn and to save money!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Bob. Glad you found our video helpful.

[@thatwideangle9781]

Love the excellent detail in your videos! Thanks for helping all of us amateur mechanics!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the kind words. We appreciate it! You're very welcome. We all started as total amateurs, but the cool thing is auto mechanics can be learned with relative ease. If you put in the time to learn and you invest in tools, you can be just as successful as the professionals. Quite often, the only difference between the professionals and the DIYers is the fact the professionals spent a lot of money to attend a trade school in which they passed tests to get certifications. You don't need certifications to be a good mechanic. Happy Wrenching!

[@smiddysmidton8313]

Thank you brother Tim, still the best tutorials for these trucks on youtube period! cheers from Australia.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks My Australian Brother. We appreciate the nice compliment.

[@hansdavis9081]

Just did my timing belt kit replacement and had a bad oil leak prior to the fix. When i got down to my front main seal, i was able to remove it with my index finger and thumb! Thanks for the help on this Tim!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good to hear our video helped you out Hans. I think you commented on the wrong video though. You're talking about a timing belt job and you commented on our Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal Replacement video. Anyways, we appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

[@hansdavis9081]

@@TimmyTheToolman my apologies! You caught me, I've been binging your channel!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@hansdavis9081 No worries. Thanks for being a fan of our channel.

[@rthomas2157]

Wanted to add an additional option that worked out for me along with the press sleeve and nipple option that Tim gives in the video. I found a piece of muffler/exhaust pipe at my local AutoZone that was the perfect diameter to fit around the new seal it captured the seal and held it in place just like the press sleeve or nipple did in the video. I then just used a piece of 2 x 4 held in place on the one end to drive the seal in evenly. This was inexpensive and worked out great for me although I did noticed that the edges are fairly sharp so I would highly recommend putting some tape or other material around one of the ends to add some padding or cushion to it for when you Are placing it against the seal it won’t bind or cut into the seal causing damage.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for sharing your technique to drive the seal in.

[@cory8791]

I really wish someone would do a input seal for the transfer case! Great vid!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

One day it will happen. Glad you like the video,

[@ZuluComander]

It's funny, It was just last week I was under my rig for something else and I noticed a drip coming out of my seal. First thought was "shit I don't think Timmy has done a video on that one yet"

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Well Commander, I'm happy to hear our timing was perfect for you. Let me know how the job goes for you.

[@jake27schannel]

I know this was 2 years ago but same lmao

[@shaknbake24]

Thank you for doing this! Would repairing the Front Output Transfer Case Seal be exactly the same process as replacing the Real Output Transfer Case Seal?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome. The process would be the same, but I think the seal might be different.

[@shaknbake24]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks again! Love these videos. They are helping me keep my 2000 250K mile tacoma alive

[@CrayCrayRedneck]

instead of unstaking, ive seen people just zip it off with an impact wrench. Good video.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The only problem with going directly to the impact gun is you run the risk of messing up the threads at the end of the shaft. Unstaking the nut is the smartest choice. Thanks for the comment and we're glad you like the video.

[@VROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM]

This was ridiculously good and helpful. I have to replace this seal on my 90 pickup. This should help a ton.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it! Good luck with the seal replacement on your pickup.

[@RippSnortin]

Have you done it yet? I need to do this on my 93 4 runner. But l don't think it has the smaller seal, just to bigger one. Am l right?

[@damontracyvis1017]

I going to be replace a front pinion seal on a 09 Toyota Sinnai tomorrow, this information was very helpful.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good luck with the job Damon. Hope it goes smooth for you.

[@transformer889]

The best tutorial video I have ever seen, thank you

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's a hell of a compliment. Sean and I appreciate it very much. You're welcome and Happy Wrenching!

[@solluna2155]

My man Timmy always helping us out . .. 💪🤙

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It's our pleasure.

[@pablolopez-sr5cb]

👍🏻👍🏻✌🏻

[@HandyAndy999]

I have a 2006 Tacoma trying to change the Front transmission seal. I unbolt the 2 bolts holding up the shaft that's almost in the middle distance. Question - do I need to unbolt the rear shaft bolts at the rear end OR can I pull the front shaft out where seal is sitting without removing the rear shaft bolts. Appreciate your advice thank you. Andrew

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The rear shaft is totally separate from the front. If you want to replace the front output shaft seal, you only have to disconnect the front driveshaft from the transfer case.

[@TheToyotahilux]

Awesome and helpful video. I just did the front companion flange on my 1990 rn130 4Runner. It’s the same process as the rear seal. Time consuming job but easy and manage d to do it without removing the cross member. Thanks for the advice.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Sam. Good job getting the job done. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!

[@iamoutofideas13]

These guys are a national treasure.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Ok, when's the Secret Service Detail show up to protect us? 😁 But seriously now, thanks for the nice comment. We appreciate it!

[@oliviaoutwest]

Just a heads up the rear output shaft seal part number is now 90311-41020. I just ordered from Toyota and this replaces 90311-41007. Looking forward to using this video as a resource to fix my leaking transfer case seal. Whenever I have an issue with my 4Runner the first place I look for help is Timmy the Toolman's videos!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hi Olivia, thanks for sharing the information regarding the part number change for the seal. Good to hear we are a resource you like to use for working on your rig. Happy Wrenching!

[@BP_Cali]

Did you drain the TC fluid before this job? Or can you swap out the seal regardless?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You don't need to drain the gear oil to do this job.

[@santoslaguna58]

Does this oil seal part number also work for the front side of the transfer case?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It's a different part number. We list it in the video description.

[@albertdemeo7405]

As always great video. Have you considered doing a video on replacing the other transfer case seals? My case is leaking somewhere near the top, virtually the entire case is caked with leaked oil and grime.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Possibly but because removal and installation of the seals on these output and Input shafts are the same it will just as good as watching one of our videos on the matter, then just use the right part number for the seal.

[@TunaCat929]

Love the in depth guide. Amazing video!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Great to hear you appreciate the detail this video offers the viewer. Thanks!

[@8953147]

Packed full of tools and tips, thanks brother Tim!! German torque good!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like it Brother Jake.

[@tadheath5856]

DAMN !!!! YOU ARE THOROUGH AS HELL!!!!!! THAT IS AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!! LOVE YOUR WORK!!! Wish you lived in ny....now I got a 2015 Tacoma....it looks just like that transfer case. Now i have a 2" leveling kit...it has two spots on the block lift in the rear...a stupid scammer put it on the spring pin all the way forward so it was setting in th back hole putting all the off the spring pad and all the weight on the front if the spring. So my spring would go up and over the axle. He pushed the carrier bearing all the way forward. I know that wouldnt be good on the seals and the u joint...I just replaced everything center u joint and carrier bearing..and thought I had the rear end out back where it was suppose to be. Driver side was 133" wheel base and passenger side was 132" wheel base. Remind you a Toyota dealer did the repairs. They never put the axle back where it was suppose to be on the passenger side. Now my u joint is bad and my transfer case is leaking. I know that ruined those seals with that rear end off one inch on one side. What is your opinion? Thank you!!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the kind words. Glad you like our channel. Sounds like you have experienced what a lot of people have experienced. Even the supposed Toyota Experts regularly screw things up. This is the reason why I now do most of my own work. I bet because the rear end being out of alignment put strain on the u-joint and the transfer case seal and that's why they both failed. If I were you, I'd try to get the Toyota dealership to compensate you for the screw up.

[@Petrovich1988]

Very well created tutorial that leaves no questions on this procedure 👍

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the nice compliment. We do our best to be as comprehensive as possible so people can succeed with the job.

[@awertsable]

Hey Timmy, thanks for making all these 3rd Gen videos! They have been a huge help for me working on my 1999. I'm about to change out this seal on the Front output shaft. You don't mention draining the transfer case or refilling at the end. Is this step not necessary? Why doesn't gear oil come spilling out when you remove the drive shaft?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome. Good to know our videos have helped you out. The rear companion flange sits higher than the level of the gear oil so it's not necessary. The front flange does sit below the level of the oil so you would want to drain the transfer case before replacing that seal.

[@MuskDeer-Pk]

@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for answering the questions, this question/answer session makes your channel as a SCHOOL. thank you for Mentoring us. God Bless you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@MuskDeer-Pk You're very welcome. Taking time to answer people's questions is something that we pride ourselves on. This is a quality that separates us from many Automotive KZbin channels. We answer the HIGH majority of questions we receive. Happy Wrenching and Learning!

[@chrisnkimberlymengel2602]

Timmy, love your vids! I recently became the proud owner of a 2002 Tacoma v6 5-speed TRD. I'm thrilled to have found your channel! When I bought the truck it had 188k on the clock. The timing belt is not original but no record as to when it was changed. Your timing belt vid really inspired me along with all these others! THANK YOU! Maybe you could do a video about what tools you use most often? As I'm getting into this I'm learning what I'm going to need - e.g. metric set of impact sockets. I'd be curious what your thoughts are on a starter set of tools might be for a beginning DIY wrencher. Thanks in advance and keep up the GREAT WORK!!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Chris and Kimberly, great to hear you like our channel. Others have shown interest in a tool box walk through of what I own and we will make this video at some point in the future. Happy Wrenching and have lots of fun with your new toy.

[@MrRamathon]

Great video, have me the confidence to get it done. I will say, spend the time to find something to press the seal in. The video goes into it but I thought I was smarter.....I was wrong.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Great to hear our video gave you the confidence to tackle this job. The right tools makes life easier for sure. Happy Wrenching!

[@PyrateRumRunner]

Thanks for posting the front seal info as well. Is it basically the same process? Thanks in advance.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, it would be the same process. You're welcome.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

I can't find the Dust shields for the front companion flang or the rear Companion Flang or the dust Shields on the transfercase

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm pretty sure the dust shield is part of the companion flange but maybe you can buy it separately.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

@@TimmyTheToolman okay I can't find it and the companion flanges are 120 bucks a peice don't want to buy companion flanges for a 15 or 20 dollar dust shield appreciate the reply timmy and good to hear from ya been awhile

[@TheSponge945]

Go with the OEM seal or something from NAPA etc?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

OEM

[@nickd1978]

Hey man I really appreciate this video. I am doing a 4x4 '03 Tacoma PreRunner conversion, so I just grabbed a 3rd Gen 4Runner transfer case. I don't see any leaks from here but I'll probably do this job anyway while I have the TC out on a bench.

[@JoseSoto-jb4ty]

Hi i have question i replace it on my toyota sequoia 2001 but i was expecting the small washer but it wasn't there what's the purpose of the washer?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Can you provide a time stamp to the washer you're talking about? We shot this video quite a while ago and I don't know what you're referring to.

[@lukeneave]

Always learning new tricks removing zerk fitting, ever experienced blocked zerks or unis?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I've never had a blocked zerk fitting but I imagine it does happen.

[@dangda-ww7de]

You know because of your videos i when out and bought 2 tundras both are v6, one is 2001 the other is 2002, one with 175k and the other is 225k miles, one is automatic other is stick. So far i did replace timing belt on both, im just waiting incase my engine goes out i might need a swap video from you soon. lol im not planing to swap it yet but just in case.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Great to hear our channel inspired some vehicle purchases for you. We might do an engine swap at some point. Have fun with your new used rigs.

[@thingsthatmake]

I noticed some videos where they also replace the needle bearing on Tacomas with a bushing. Is this a common failure on the 4Runner as well? Getting ready to do the CV's on mine soon. Thanks so much for the awesome detailed informative educational videos! : ) Greatly appreciated my friend, priceless info.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The needle bearing failure on the driver side differential is fairly common with lifted 4runners too. 3rd Gen 4runners and 1st Gen Tacomas have the same exact drivetrain. When the rig gets lifted, the extra angle for the CV axles can cause a strain on that needle bearing and people will feel a vibration and roaring noise from the front end when the needle bearing starts to wear out. We made a video on this repair. Check it out: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qYmsl3t3p9mpfJo

[@Thr33.Sid3z]

Sockets also work pretty well to tap in seals. Thanx for the vid!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I could see sockets working well to drive in seals. For this application, it would have to be one huge socket. Maybe a diesel truck mechanic might have something that big in his tool box. You're welcome and Happy Wrenching!

[@Thr33.Sid3z]

@@TimmyTheToolman Yeah that's what I was thinking. I have a few 2in sockets... Idk how big the seal is on my Evo. I'm still trying to figure out where the leak is coming from, but I'm 90% sure it's the output seal cuz I'm getting fluid all over my Downpipe and I think that's the only location high enough to do that...

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@Thr33.Sid3z I"m sure you'll figure it out. Good luck with the repair.

[@MuskDeer-Pk]

nice stuff. learnt a lot. thanks a lot for sharing your valuable experience. God bless you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm happy to know you learned a lot from our video. You're very welcome, and God bless you too.

[@RobertFitch]

Timmy, You provided a very informative and straight forward video on the Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal Replacement for the Toyota 1st Gen Tacoma. Do you know if this procedure would be the same for 2005 Lexus RX330 AWD? My rear oil seal on my transfer case is leaking (badly!). All the quotes I have received total 18 hours of labor. They claim the transfer case would have to be removed. In your video the transfer case remains in the car while you replace the seal. I would appreciate any advice on the matter. The quotes I have received are any where from $3500-$4000. This is way to much for a 70 year old man on a fixed income. Again, Thank you for the great videos.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Robert, I'm not familiar with the Lexus RX330 so I'm not sure if the job would be similar. I wonder why the transfer case would have to be removed to replace the output shaft seal. It doesn't make sense. Send me a picture of where the seal is so I can give you a more definite opinion on it. I did a quick search and found this: repairpal.com/estimator/lexus/rx330/transfer-case-output-shaft-oil-seal-replacement-cost Maybe the shops are misunderstanding what's leaking.

[@mymercury1961]

Thank you very much for the video on hints & how to do, Do you have any idea if the front output flange to the front diff is done the same ? Thanks again and look forward to a reply.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The steps would be the same but the seal isn't. We list that front seal in the video description.

[@Lucas-ix8bg]

nice video..i changed the seal following the instructions. now i have a suspected bearing sound coming from the front transfer drive. can the sprocket drive bearing be changed without taking down the whole transmission?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm not 100% sure but I believe you would have to crack open the transfer case to get at that bearing and then for sure you would need a press to get the bearing off the shaft. So, the transfer case needs to come out. The transmission wouldn't need to come out though.

[@Samson-EC]

I did not see you mark flange to transfer case, so does it matter on how it goes back on, which then would negate your first markings on the drive shaft, I would think..thks..jc

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We did mark the companion flange, but it really doesn't matter. You could bolt it up in another position because the flange isn't part of the balancing of the driveshaft.

[@Samson-EC]

@@TimmyTheToolman What I was trying to say is that you marked the companion flange to the yoke . But when you removed the flange from the housing I did not see where you marked the flange to the housing. Did I miss that ? Understand it is not an issue..thks..jc

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@Samson-EC Oh, I understand. The companion flange mating with the transfer case isn't an issue people need to worry about by making match marks.

[@Samson-EC]

@@TimmyTheToolman Great. Thks so much for all the info. Appreciate you taking the time..jc

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@Samson-EC You're welcome JC. Sean and I do our best to answer everyone's questions but some slip by us. We're not some hugely popular channel with so many questions coming in everyday that would make answering them all impossible. I guess it's one of the nice things a smaller automotive channel can offer people.

[@djsonicc]

Very good, and straight to the point

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks!

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

I can't find the dust Shields that protect the seals is that apart of the companion flange and the Transfercase housing ? Not seeing it in the Shop manual in the transfer case section?

[@rahalati]

Excellent job and nicely explained, thanks for sharing. I wish a similar video is done to show how to replace front oil seal of a 1998 land cruiser transfer case

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment and you're very welcome. Maybe one day we'll do the same on a 100 Series Land Cruiser.

[@rahalati]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for your reply. Do you think overtightening or not tightening enough the 30 mm nut that attaches the companying flange to the output shaft of the transfer case, do you think it will misalign the seal to cause it to leak even if you are sure it was inserted properly? I replaced my 1998 Land cruiser rear transfer case seal and I am sure I did it correctly, but I am getting leak again.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@rahalati Under tightening or over tightening the nut wouldn't cause the seal to ride in a different spot. Sometimes the seal can wear a groove in the actual metal of the companion flange, and even with a new seal, it will leak. Did you carefully examine the surface the seal is riding on to see if there was a detectable grove in the companion flange metal? If there is a groove, you have a couple choices. Replace the seal and don't drive it fully so the seal will ride on the companion flange in a new and non-grooved surface. The other option is to get a replacement companion flange.

[@rahalati]

​@@TimmyTheToolman thank you so much. At least now I exclude the issue of the nut tightening. In fact the rear seal was not leaking initially, but decide to replace it along with other seals in the transfer case since I already opened the transfer case to replace the front seal which was leaking. Fortunately now that the rear seal is our issue which does not require the transfer case to be opened again. I will have to go back and check it and follow your advice. Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@rahalati Hope you figure it out. Let me know how it works out.

[@paytendampeer811]

Awesome!! Based off the looks this will work the same for my 5th gen 4Runner right?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The general steps will, but you'll have to make sure you get the correct seals for your transmission and pay attention to how the original seal was installed. You'll want to drive it in to the same depth as it was before. Sometimes, with seal applications, you can drive it in too deep, which causes the seal to not be riding where it needs to be on the shaft of the companion flange.

[@sirsweetness8332]

Did you drain and refill the transfer case to ensure it was full enough?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No need to drain it unless the gear oil was due to be renewed. As for topping it off, yes you'd want to do that. John had already topped it off before we did the job.

[@eckhardkoehler3013]

You are a stud! Thanks for the thorough video.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks and you're very welcome. Good luck with the job.

[@eckhardkoehler3013]

@@TimmyTheToolman thank you. You've made it look straight forward. Going to check with Toyota that the 2004 is similar, and then hope that's the only cause of my leak as it looks to be coming from the rear and possibly forward. Guess I can start and then see if everything resolves

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@eckhardkoehler3013 I would suggest cleaning up everything very well with degreaser and rags and then watch it carefully to figure out the true origin of the leak before you replace anything.

[@justing1810]

Great video I'm going to have to do this job soon on my ranger

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks! Good luck with the job

[@jake27schannel]

Another useful video I found! both sides of my t case are leaking. So to do the front would I use all the same parts except instead use the front output shaft seal with all the other parts?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Pretty much! You got it!

[@jake27schannel]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you! all your videos have helped me so much over the Years and expanding my skills. much appreciated

[@williamtsol636]

Best Tacoma channel for sure !

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks William.

[@jasonarstell8039]

Very good video. One of the best I’ve ever seen

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Jason. We appreciate the nice compliment.

[@davidezwaaf1195]

Thanks Timmy you guys are the best!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome!

[@leo3325]

Nice video! Do you know if Nissan Pathfinder 2014 has a similar procedure to replace seal? I was told by dealer that transfer case is not serviceable and ask 5000 bucks for replacement of the whole transfer case! Thank you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Not sure, but just under the rig, remove the drive shaft and flange and see if you can identify a seal. Also clean it real good to make sure the transfer case is leaking from something like a seal. Could be a crack or leaking from somewhere else.

[@BnaBrat]

Thank you so much! I was stuck on this today! You made my day!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome! Glad your video helped you out.

[@BnaBrat]

Can I drive it in 4WD just to make sure the vibration is in the rear driveshaft that is out of the vehicle now?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@BnaBrat Well, on pavement you can use 4WD but you have to be careful. If you're just going in a straight line, no problem. If you do some turns, there will be a binding that will happen with your axles and your front differential. So, if you can get it on a straight road, drive it to see if the vibration is gone. Stop. Take it out of 4wd and physically push the rig to get it turned around, maybe with the help of a buddy, and then put it back in 4wd to get home, this could work. If you take turns on pavement in 4wd, you can end up causing damage so you need to be very careful.

[@BnaBrat]

So my driveshaft guy told me today the driveshaft that was with my 4runner that I purchased in Jan with 325K on it was to short the splines were showing a little at the rear flange. That is what is causing the vibration. Trying to figure out what this old driveshaft goes to other than my 4runner?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@BnaBrat Who knows. The previous owner pulled it off another Toyota most likely, maybe something like a RAV 4. At least you figured out your problem. Maybe you can find a used one at a wrecking yard like a PickNPull.

[@Thelegend-z7d]

Delisious video. Had what i was looking for thanks.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We got Tasty-mods. -Sean

[@iconiumbuilders7820]

Fantastic video! Can't believe TW banned you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks! I'm glad you like it. Was I out of line for blasting the guy in a public way? At some level, the answer is yes. This animosity I have for this guy has been brewing for years. The first video he copied of ours that I was aware of is our Rear Axle Seal job. He at least mentioned our channel and linked our video in the write-up. Then he did the same with our Timing Belt video and I called him out on it and he personal messaged me and apologized for not doing a better job of mentioning us as his primary source. Then recently I noticed yet another write-up he did for LCA bushing replacements that was clearly based off our video. The dead give-away to me is his tool choices. They are identical. Same brand and same model number. That does not happen by coincidence. It tells me this guy sat down and watched our video, performed the job taking the necessary pictures and then put his write-up together. At first, I genuinely thought this guy was just being nice to the group of people that prefer write-ups over videos. These people exist. So, I even though I didn't like him copying our work and getting the praise for it, I thought this guy is serving a purpose. But, then recently I took a closer look at his LCA write-up and noticed his tool and parts links are Amazon and Ebay Associates links. That's when I really got upset. This guy is actually making a profit off of it. If he was just about helping people, he could simply point people to our channel when a subject comes up for which he knows we have a video for. Lots of people refer people to our videos. I see it on Facebook and on Toyota forums all the time. Our videos get referred via word of mouth. But, this guy wants to direct people to his own write-ups so HE can make money if they click on his tools and parts links, tools and parts links he most likely got from us. Did I let my anger get the better of me? I sure did. Did I use the most tactful way to expose this guy? No, I didn't. But, he needed to be exposed in my opinion. He's getting praise and making money off our content. That's not right. TW was wrong in the way they handled it. They could have simply sent me a message to back off the guy. If I didn't back off, they would be forced to ban me. I got no such type of warning. I just got a message I was banned for violating their rule against "Self-Promotion". Kind of funny how after 6 years of posting our videos on TW, all of a sudden that's a reason to ban me. The real reason is one or more of the moderators favored the guy I blasted over me. There could also be jealousy involved. For the 1st Gen Tacoma and 3rd Gen 4runner platform, nobody comes close to the helpful content Sean and I have amassed. So, for TW to ban me, arguably the biggest contributor to their platform, I just have to laugh. I helped out lots of TW members. I fairly regularly got PMs from members and I did my best to help each and every one of them. That's what I do. I help people to the best of my ability. Anyway, I wouldn't come back to that forum even if they begged me. This experience left a huge bad taste in my mouth. I might have been out of line how I blasted the guy in a public way, but that shouldn't have warranted a ban for me. One or more of the moderators had a hard-on for me, and I gave them the rope to hang me. BTW, you're the first to comment about this situation on our channel. I knew I'd get somebody mentioning it. Happy Wrenching Bro!

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Love that will work for 4runner repairs

[@gordonpotts753]

Very articulate. Great vid

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment.

[@MykMallett]

Brilliant video. Do you definitely need all 4 wheels off the ground? I only have 2 jack stands at the moment

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, you don't. But, it would give you a little more room to work though. We're glad you like the video and good luck with the job.

[@grilledchickenwrap]

They look similar to other cars like my 2014 Nissan pathfinder I seem to be developing a leak in the rear transfer case output shaft seal.. did you totally remove the drive shaft or just left it hanging ? I’m thinking about doing my Nissan but was wondering for best way since I’m am doing it in my driveway lol with car jacked up. Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I can't remember 100%. I think we removed the driveshaft entirely. Just pay attention to how far the seal is driven in and copy that when you install the new seal.

[@jlc7300]

Good detailed video, would this be about the same procedure for a 99 Rav4 AWD?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks. Don't know if it would be similar to the RAV4. We've never worked on one.

[@fabianromo4445]

For this process, you didn’t have to drain the oil, correct ??

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That is correct. The person we were helping wanted to renew the gear oil, and that's why we did it.

[@rthomas2157]

Hi Tim. Thanks again for making this video it is very helpful I know this is been up a while so I am hoping you see this. I recently just replaced the rear output shaft seal on my first GEN Tacoma using your video here so far so good. Since then I have noticed a small amount of gear oil weeping out between the area where the transfer case and transmission meet up. I did a quick search on Tacoma world and found some comments that I believe were made by you about that it does not have a gasket or RTV seal that it is a dry seal metal to metal. Is this correct? Also if I am seeing gear oil leaking out in that area that it could possibly be my TC input shaft seal leaking or the Transmission output seal. I’m I understanding this correct? It’s not a very bad leak and is definitely gear oil which would seem to me it would be the input shaft seal. Just wanted to reach out to see if you thought it was worth while replacing? The area where the seal is located in the front companion flange is bone dry just leaking 2-3 drops from between the TC and Transmission. Thank you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, the seal between the transfer case and transmission is a dry seal. There's no fluid in that void between the two parts. If it's gear oil leaking out, and you have an automatic transmission, the source of the leak has to be the input shaft seal on the transfer case because the auto trans has ATF running in it. If you have a manual transmission, then the leak could be either coming from the output shaft of the transmission or the input shaft of the transfer case. If the leak isn't that bad and you're keeping an eye on the fluid level on a halfway regular basis, you're fine. If the leak gets worse, then you're going to have to check your fluid levels frequently or risk messing up one of those expensive components. Pulling the transfer case isn't that hard but it does take some time. Our Auto Trans Swap Part 1 video will show you how to do it if you decide to drop it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pYunhJ2irdFlh5Y

[@luisolitoquit4481]

Hi Timmy, very good video. I need to know if you have a video on how to replace an oil pan gasket. I want to do it on my 97 4runner because I am having a small leak . Also after watching the 30,000 mile video, I did change the front differential gear oil and transfer case gear oil today just by watching your video. Thanks again.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We haven't done an oil pan gasket replacement video yet. But, we have a video for pulling the front differential and that's most of the work. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZDKgZx6q81srJY Be sure to read the comment I pinned because we learned of a much easier way to get the front differential out. Once the front differential is out of the way, you can remove the oil pan with relative ease. Take a look at our Transmission Filter Replacement video. The tool and technique we use to separate the trans pan from the transmission would be the same technique to separate the oil pan from the bottom of the engine. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qqaqkq2Endp4qq8

[@Samson-EC]

This was a nice video Timmy. I do not understand having to use some sort of pressing mechanism on the seal since it looks to be entirely rubber. Would the seal just not press in? Thks...jc

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The seal is metal and rubber. The outer circumference is metal and the inner circumference is rubber. You have to drive the seal in with some type of tool.

[@Samson-EC]

@@TimmyTheToolman Okay, looked like it was all rubber. Makes sense..thks..jc

[@mackfeltz01]

Awesome job... I have the same problem but on the front drive shaft output of the transfer case... Do you know if all the required parts are the same?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know if the front output shaft uses the same parts. There's a very good chance that this is the case but you'll have to confirm it. Your local dealer would be able to tell you, and since we're not talking a lot of money for these seals and the nut, you could just buy from them. Quite often, I use my local dealer out of convenience because they can find the right parts I need when online parts schematics aren't very helpful. If we were talking parts that were more costly, I'd tell you to call Camelback Toyota in Arizona. I use them to buy most of my Toyota parts. Their prices are competitive, they ship quickly and they will ship for free if your order is $150 or more. If you ever need help with an order, you can call Camelback and ask to talk to Jorge (he calls himself "George") and he will help you out. Jorge handles the online sales.

[@mackfeltz01]

@@TimmyTheToolman awesome thanks for the reply Timmy! I was going to order through Camelback Toyota cause Canada doesn't have very good online sources for Toyotas but sadly they don't ship to Canada as far as I know. I will have to call up the dealership and see what they say..

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@mackfeltz01 Ok, let me know if the part numbers are the same for the front output shaft. That would be helpful to add to the video description.

[@tomb6319]

When it comes to replacing the small seal on the companion flange, I have some steel punches. Do you think I could put a layer of electrical tap on the bottom and that would prevent it from marring the companion flange when I need to get that seal flush? If not, I'll go out and buy a brass drift like you used, your electrical tape on the screw driver idea just had me thinking haha.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You could do it with the punch. Just tape it up like you mentioned or be extra careful when you're driving it in.

[@tomb6319]

@@TimmyTheToolman Ended up buying a brass drift since I figured it would be a helpful tool in general, but thanks for the reply and great video!

[@privatelisting366]

The tool to un-stake the 30mm is sold on Amazon and it looks like a curved standard screwdriver, where you wedge it in and the curve shape directs the force to the staked section of the nut instead of into the axle or output shaft. $30 for two tools, one to stake and one to un-stake the nut.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You’re right, and we bought it. Here’s the link amzn.to/3Cdcqv2

[@privatelisting366]

@@TimmyTheToolman Nice to hear! We cut a beveled notch in small chisel to un-stake ours, using a die grinder.

[@creative_expressionproductions]

I found the safest way to drive the new seal in is with the flange itself. Lightly oil the seal the Gently seat the new seal and slide the flange on the splined output shaft. Gently tighten down the shaft nut and the flange will slowly push the seal I to place evenly. Once the nut is bottomed out you undo it and tap the seal flush with a rubber mallet and soft wooden block. Opposite ends. Slowly does it. Once it's seated a block of sowf wood helped tap each side flush

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for sharing your technique. Maybe I'll try it out one day.

[@santossanchez872]

is this procedure the same for 1992 toyota pickup i'm like one of your viewers thought it was the rear but it ends been the transfer case output shaft seal?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm guessing it would be similar but I can't say for sure. I've never done this job on a 92 pickup. For sure you should make sure you get the correct seals. I also don't know if the part numbers are the same.

[@stonejordan710]

Great helpful video! Trying to replace my front transfer case seal this weekend. Is the transfer case output shaft seal or the nut different for the front vs. the back seals?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like the video. The front seal is different from the rear seal. We provide the part number in the video description. I don't know if the nut is different on the front. I would venture to say it's the same but I'm not 100% sure. A visit to you local Toyota dealership parts department would probably get this question answered though. Just give them the part number for the rear nut and ask them if it's the same for the front companion flange.

[@bigboatsrule4409]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for updating the Front part number. Also, removing the grease zirk to relieve pressure, is a sick trick!

[@a.sanchez4949]

Did you guys install these seals dry or did you put a light film of oil on the outside before driving them in?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I put a little film of oil on it.

[@a.sanchez4949]

Thanks for the response. You guys have done a great job on the videos. We all appreciate it.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@a.sanchez4949 You're very welcome and thanks for the kind words.

[@corbs3535]

hi timmy quick question is the input seal at all similar to this seal or will it require a little more know how and equipment

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Replacing the input shaft seal on the transfer case is totally different. To get to that seal, the transfer case would have to be removed from the vehicle. I've never replaced one but I'm guessing it's similar to replacing the input shaft seal on a manual transmission. You remove the plate that houses it, pry out the old seal, install and new one, and reseal the plate back to the case. I'm guessing you're seeing gear oil dripping down from the juncture of the transfer case and transmission? If the leak isn't really bad, you could just leave it alone. If you're losing a significant amount, then you'd want to do the labor necessary to change it. We have our transmission replacement series where we show how to remove the transfer case.

[@lovelovelybe3850]

Great video. Love the details! Thank you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks and you're very welcome. We're glad you like the detail we offer in this video. You'll find all of our videos offer lots of detail because we want people to be successful using our tutorials.

[@strongbackmfg15]

Thanks buddy! Great video

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome.

[@iamoutofideas13]

Maybe I missed it in the video, but from the tools in the description, I think the transfer case shaft nut is 30mm?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, it's a 30mm.

[@ivanduron211]

Hello Timmy, thanks for the video, can you tell me please the parts numbers of both seals? i have the same problem on my car

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We list them in the video description.

[@forestbell3853]

Ok so if you are going to replace the front output shaft seal would you need to get another companion flange smaller seal And companion flange nut for the front? Are they almost a identical set up? Also would the smaller seal and nut be the same part number as the rear? Thanks In advanced

[@TimmyTheToolman]

They are almost an identical setup but I’ve heard there’s different part numbers for the front companion flange seals so make sure you get the right ones.

[@overamped23042]

You need to compensate your torque spec when using a crows foot. Thanks for all the great videos and bbq!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

What's the formula for the compensation? I've heard about this before but something tells me it's not enough to worry about. In past, I just used the German spec "Gudentite".

[@overamped23042]

@@TimmyTheToolman It's usually in the paperwork with your torque wrench.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@overamped23042 Gotcha. I don't remember much paperwork but I'll take a look.

[@RysiuMal]

@@TimmyTheToolman the easiest way (for no calculation ) is to keep your adapter perpendicular to the wrench. No compensation. Not always possible in tight spaces. Then you need to apply formula. For example www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx. Notice that the true torque depends on where you grip the wrench (which is not the the case without adapter).

[@overamped23042]

@@RysiuMal I would always use a torque wrench from the handle, as this is where it is calibrated from. I know it's splitting hairs. But every thing is made of rubber, and the body of the wrench is going to bend. The calibration accounts for this. Have you ever seen how much a 250 lb/ft torque wrench bends?

[@davidezwaaf1195]

Timmy! Hey guys live the channel and thanks for what you’re doing. So I have this same leak from the front side I assume that’s the input shaft seal I was just curious if you had a video for that procedure or if it’s the same as the rear seal and same parts? Thanks again guy’s

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The procedure is the same but the part number for the front seal is different. We list the part number of the front seal in the Parts List in the Video Description. Open the video description up by clicking on "Show More".

[@Di_Cocco]

I'd love to find a mechanic like yourself who knows what's he is doing. How much do parts and labor cost for this job for a 2008 RAV4? Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Don't know how much it would cost you at a shop. A Toyota dealership will problem be more expensive than an independent shop. Maybe you can find an independent shop that specializes in Toyotas to do it for you.

[@gatzbravo]

great video...i was actually looking for something on the other side of the transfer case. I recently noticed a drip from the drain plug. I tried tighting it but it was already tight. Maybe theres a seal on the front side that needs replacing. Its a 92 4wd pickup. Do these have drain plug washers that could be the culpret...anything to avoid a bigger hassle?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, the drain plugs do have aluminum washers. You could buy them at your local dealership or from an on-line Toyota parts supplier.

[@gatzbravo]

I did along with the recessed hex plugs which are so much easier to tighten. Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@gatzbravo You're welcome.

[@harveygomez4943]

Hi Timy ! I own a 2001 2001Toyota Hilux motor 3L and I am trying to replace the front transfercase oil seal, but before that is a dust caver seal, how can I remove it with out damege it?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm not familiar with it so I can't really advise you how to remove that dust cover. What area of the World are you in. Maybe there's a Toyota forum you can ask your question on and somebody will be able to help you.

[@jackempson3044]

Great clear video.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment, Jack.

[@GXKid06]

Great video as always!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Jax.

[@lenlenman]

Hey Timmy, I need to do the seal on my transfer case, but the one for the front companion flange connected to the front driveshaft. I know you don't have to drain the case for the rear flange, but do I have to drain all the gear oil for doing the front seals since it's much lower that the rear one?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Ian, yeah, I would drain it if you're doing the front seal.

[@mikeymcnair4286]

hi timmy, i got a 92 v6 auto 4x4. same process? which way does the seal go? lip out towards the comp. flange or inside the t case?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Mikey, we've never done the job on a 92 4runner but I imagine the process is the same. I don't know the orientation of the seal. Just carefully analyze the seal orientation before you remove so you know how to install the new one.

[@king49334]

Pvc pipe and cap work

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Never tried it but it would work. I just wanted to give people more options for a driver to install the seal.

[@martinravina6934]

Hi Timmy thanks again for the amazing confidence boosting tutorials. I've ordered the parts in you descriptions but turns out it was the front seal leaking in mine (lower one), do both sides use the same seals? The flange one is the same indeed my concern is the transfer case one. Thanks again and greetings from New Zealand.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know for sure 100% but it would be my guess that it's the same seal. I tried doing a search online to confirm it's the same seal but the online Toyota parts sellers don't have the greatest parts schematics to consult. If this isn't your only vehicle, you could always just pop the seal out and then do a side by side comparison to make sure it matches up. That seal seems to be used for a lot of different year Toyota and Lexus model transfer cases all the way up to 2018. So, I'm pretty confident you're going to find it's the same seal front and rear.

[@martinravina6934]

@@TimmyTheToolman hey Timmy thanks for the reply, I've removed it and looks slightly smaller than the back one, not sure if shrinks a bit. Agreed I couldnt get a good schematic myself either. Found this that could be different: www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/9031141012 Will go to the dealership today and ask will update for reference.

[@martinravina6934]

Checked with the dealer, all same procedure just different seal on the Transfer Case for Front is part number 9031141012. Thanks again Timmy you're the man!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@martinravina6934 Glad you got it figured out. Thanks for sharing the part number. I added it to the video description for anyone else looking for the same answer.

[@blacktalonarmory5]

I recently pulled the driveshaft on my 2020 4 runner and noticed no side to side play in the TC flange however notice 1/16 in and out play. When I pulled the flange I noticed there was not a shim behind it. I'm not the original owner and my question is do you know whether or not the shims are there for the purposeof preloading the bearings? Is the in and out play acceptable ?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't believe the companion flange actually puts a preload on the bearing behind it. It's not like setting the preload for a pinion bearing on a differential. I don't remember the Toyota FSM discussing anything about this or any talk about shims. That play you are noticing might just be a little play in the bearing shaft and it could be normal, but I don't know for sure.

[@audiobackdrops18]

How in the heck do you learn all this? 😮

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I've learned from many sources. One is from the Toyota factory service manual pages. Another is from write-ups people make for jobs. Another is by watching people's KZbin videos. Another is from Toyota forums or Toyota Facebook groups. Finally, sometimes it's just from using the mechanical aptitude I possess to figure things out. I think I have an average level of mechanical aptitude.

[@efil4kizum]

@@TimmyTheToolman perhaps above average aptitude!?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@efil4kizum Nope, I think I'm about average. I've always said this. I don't think there's anything special with my mechanical abilities, and the reason why I tell people, if I can do this stuff, so can you.

[@jasonrentfrow2078]

Where did you get that sleeve from sir I need that so bad been trying to find something to install that seal with

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That sleeve is part of a crank and camshaft seal removal/ installation kit. A link to the kit is in the video description. Just click on "Show More" and the video description will expand out.

[@toastrecon]

I guess it's not necessary to add grease to that zerk fitting after you reinstall it? Are you supposed to just add a little grease at each oil change?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey David, we definitely could have added some grease to the slip yoke but we figured John would be greasing his slip yokes and u-joints with his grease of choice so we left it up to him. For me personally, I usually grease my driveshaft zerk fittings every other oil change. That seems to be enough to keep them well-lubricated.