Did I Hack This Rheem Commercial Rooftop Unit?

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#rheem #rtu #hacked

[@oilburner9989]

Should have told the kid to MOVE the fucking ladder or go wash dishes.

[@metalhead24922492]

Instead of the tape you used , try some 2-4” tall strips of tin. Screw into existing ductwork that’s too short & into the unit. A more permanent duct extension , you could duct seal it afterwards too.

[@ferreiraplumbingandheating1323]

Sheet metal panning , strip it in with 5/16 zip screws then mastic tape over it or duct sealent

[@charlessolazzojr6767]

Mike, Joey's comment short of lifting RTU and addressing curb is the best option. Galvanized sheet metal strips is your least evasive move. 4 strips, 1 for each side to fill gap. I'm not able to see if you have enough overhang to put a 1/2" 90° break on each piece to butt up against the underneath overhang if you have any overhang to begin with. Before using selt tapping sheet metal screws you can decide if you want to apply caulking to the back side of strips, I would before applying sheet metal screws. Don't use silicon caulking, it garbage for this type of repair, use a good caulking for the conditions this repair will be subject to in all weater conditions.

[@Lewdacris916]

POOKIE

[@Mike-hs8fq]

Keeping it real with the good the bad and the ugly. That's what I love about your channel. From the comments below I'm sure we all learned something valuable.

[@funbricknj]

sheet metal strips tall enough to cover the gap with a 1/2 inch bend, the put the double-sided sponge tape on the 1/2" side and press it to the top to seal there then sheet metal screw the sides, then tape the joints

[@eddiew.6485]

That Drop from the pole to the structure was definitely live…….

[@throttlebottle5906]

here's my large electrical cabling cutters, give it a snip and see. (yeah DO NOT) very much excitement would occur, as the cable and tool turns into a fireball of long burning arc-flash, until it either fully burns in half or melts down upstream butt splices/connectors and they'll do that just that after a long period of buzzing, smoking the coating off, etc. I've seen service entrance cable below meter used for chaining up a dog! it yanked enough it shorted one hot leg to the ground braid and burnt the meter up and the whole cable on the home and 150 feet across the yard on three poles to the transformer, where it eventually burnt out a butt splice! it was a rental property and they're like can you fix it? someone else was there and only quoted them a main breaker. YIKES that was not a good conversation we had, the place nearly burnt down and I called for emergency disconnect of the rest, the other hot leg was still live!

[@GreatCanadianGoose]

The right way is replace curb adapter but I had this issue and I ended up using sheet metal around supply and return screwed to the unit and folded to mate with seal on curb adapter

[@JM-iu1yg]

When I was doing HVAC. I always had a roll of tin 4" and 6" wide for such occasions. Cut to length. Screw in place . Caulk the joints. If it moves again. Just relocate the screws!

[@RobertKohut]

The wires your ladder is near is called a triplex. It has two 120 volt wires and one neutral. The bare conductor in that bundle is the neutral and can carry current is some circumstances... :-)

[@ToxicwasteProductions]

I would use foam seal :)

[@michaelmcewan5074]

Sometimes the manufacturer has a drain plug in the center of the drain pan. At which point you can use that as your drain line but you’ll have to drill through the curb to run the line and establish your termination. Carrier RTU’s have them I’m just not sure if Rheem does, couldn’t tell from the video. Thanks for the video Saint Mike!

[@gomerhondo7249]

You need a flag / Bosch sticker over the Navien advertising on the van.

[@georgesummerlin1602]

That is definitely high voltage. That's the triplex coming from the transformer on phone poll. Lol

[@codywiggins9387]

He's got a set of balls setting the ladder up there that's for sure.

[@hartsfire5706]

you did a good job with what you had to work with. you are right the real way to fix it would be pull the hole unit off of the roof and put a new Curb adapter in.

[@ktk575]

Hard to say what to do if the roof settles after the installation, we usually have the curb adapters made for the current roof pitch.

[@ktk575]

maybe some duct board strips cut to squeeze in the gaps then silver tape.

[@dc6233]

Unfortunately the curb or adapter needs to be fixed. BUT, those pans are usually reversible, and there isn't much holding them in there, I've ran into this and I shimmed the drain pan up on one side and shot some 5/16ths self tappers in it - up high, to hold it. I think I had to chop off a piece of the plastic pan that sat in a grove but it sure was easier than raising the whole unit. If the ductwork was installed correctly there's often enough play in the canvas that you can move the unit a bit up/down/sideways etc. Lots of guys don't even use a canvas though, or they do but then they lock it in place with hangin strap so you can't always count on that...

[@joemaxfield93]

Maybe add a little ductwork on the low side of the drain pan so it’s higher now

[@Capt4141]

Absolutely that triplex was power, was it possible to retap the drain pan on opposite side?

[@dirtywaterstd6831]

Go to truck and grab jack from wherever its located. I always carry pieces of two by four. jack up unit after disconnecting gas pipe union. Make sure your electrical is free or has play. Jack up one side and add insulation foam tape, the thicker the better so doubling it up works too. Jack stands with four by four wood is good for safety. place blocks of wood in space to allow you to get cross member insulated fro supply and return.

[@arthouston7361]

Mike, you can’t rely on the insulation properties of a triplex power drop to maintain its integrity when exposed to weather. Putting your hand on that or touching it in some other fashion can indeed result in an electric shock. All you need is a pathway the size of a small pinhole. That bundle is the power for that building coming from that pole.... so yes, you want to avoid something like that, or……put approved insulation sleeving over it before you approach it. Some people think that a voltage such as that won't kill you, and those people are wrong. All you need is for your heart to go into fibrillation, and without an AED, you are dead before the ambulance can get to you are use their AED they have on the truck. Also, the real fix, as you probably know, it to re-curb for that unit. Many malls do not allow the use of curb adapters because of water issues.

[@throttlebottle5906]

yeah, they should stay away from it. but in reality they'd have to grab it with two hands or be touching something else grounded and grab it. the bigger issue is it's not fused and could become a nasty arcing fireball if it got shorted somehow, also any of the wiring there is a tripping hazard and could make you do a header off the roof. unless you're some crazy parkour person, taking a header off a roof never ends well.

[@arthouston7361]

@@throttlebottle5906 Actually, it only takes one hand. You would be shorting one of the hot legs to that messenger wire.... which is the neutral.

[@throttlebottle5906]

@@arthouston7361 yes that would shock you're hand, possibly cause arcing and maybe a fall from the ladder. the fall may very well kill you, but single hand touching at that voltage wouldn't, unless you have conductors ran around your body or are grounded at some other point. the power would stay localized in you're hand/arm end.

[@arthouston7361]

@@throttlebottle5906 Not true. There is a very high chance that hand shock sends your heart into V-fib. See above. The fall of 12 feet from the roof in question might kill you, but the V-fib will definitely kill you unless that rhythm is restored in under 10 minutes. We learned how to not die in lineman school, and I still practice that level of safety as a commercial HVAC tech today.

[@michaelt151]

At 240 V with at least 200 A . NO BUENO!!!!!

[@mattfromtexas9410]

Definitely leave curb alone unless you are ready for a proper fix. I always create a foot for the drain pan it can be all kinds of un-level on the outside all it wants but you definitely can create fall depending on type of unit some screws might need moving and stuff like that also depending on weight you will have to choose the correct material but start at the back of the drain pan work your way towards where the water exits. Create your own fall underneath the pan leave outside alone till proper repair can be.completed. The foot underneath the pan is always a good idea to get you thru.

[@waitikubuliwaitikubuli6180]

Mikey pipes ,the wielding kit and solder, daneil is using....is it possible to give a link to order the lot.... Is it a propane tank or exceiterylñ...

[@miguellopez-mp5fg]

Looks like you need a proper curb adapter made to the pitch of the roof so it sits level .I would extend the duct up or put a flex connector so the duct has a tight connection.

[@michaelsandford2960]

Take 2 pieces of unistrut cut on side off on each piece sceew together slide it in gap anchor it to curb then use your mastic

[@Mr.unknownx1]

Are you going to get into refrigerator and freezer rooftop for restaurant

[@twolfe4295]

You could have a custom curb made and replace the one the unit sits on. Crane charges + curb + time = X$. Most new RTU"s are longer in the condenser end even though they fit an existing curb. Had one similar that a wind storm lifted the end of the unit up off of the curb and only had to use a pry bar to reset it.

[@brettwing737]

Could you pan it off with sheet metal or not enough access? Maybe pan it off then have a roofer go up after and seal over the area you pan off with membrane or use vulcan? Idk didn't get to good of a look at it.

[@ICONBADGTA]

Just use some pieces of sheet-metal cut then tape/seal it or use mastic-paste... Then once unit gets replaced on down the road, fix permanently..

[@BoilerMaker56]

A custom transition that a sheet metal shop could make up would’ve been ideal for this curb. Then you could’ve had it pitched the opposite direction.

[@b3d3g69]

Was there anyway you could just prop something under ther evap tray ton pitch it foward?

[@AIMANNY]

That is live wire.

[@konstantinostsoukalas362]

Well Mike not many options. Crane lift level curb adapter drop the unit have a nice day.

[@throttlebottle5906]

that's a temporary fix, the unit is way too large for the curb, with too much weight in the "flying buttress" on stilts. that end is smashing the roof deck down, it may not be overtop any structure and wont quit sagging, it may even punch holes through the roof. a further temporary hack, would be using some 2x4's built up to a 4x6 or 6x6 to spread the load out far wider across the roof, but that would trap water and not be good for the roof, even if the wood was notched every so far to allow water drainage. for the duct and curb extension, cut tin into bands and screw it in place. *proper way? they need a new roof with a larger curb installed, connected and properly supported by the structure below. they may be able to just correct that one area and patch it in, if the roof and structure is good.

[@dc6233]

Ideally they should have bought a curb adapter, who knows if the S + R are even lined up or if 1/3rd of them are cut off.

[@redneckbryon]

I'm surprised you still have a Navien Nticker, on the side of your van.

[@sh2697]

so Im not sure what you did to tilt it?

[@alexibonnet2634]

You do what you have to do to get the job done . Too bad it was not a Lennox package unit. (Depending on unit model # With Lennox you have the option to drain from the left or right side.

[@gomerhondo7249]

That was 220V power. Those are power poles (telephone typically rent space from power company).

[@hvacshinobi8047]

Should of put mastic over the tape. Also should of showed what you did.

[@tdadp]

It’s a Band-Aid fix one That has me starching my head . I hate to say Repitch the roof but it’s suck because of the cost to Repitch the roof

[@davidseymore3411]

should have leveled curb adapter. before setting unit

[@walterbordett2023]

The unit sagged because there is weight on the compressible roof insulation. The RTU should be fully supported to the structural deck and framing. the unit may have to be pulled and reinstalled with structural and roofing corrections. If there need to be end supports, they need to extend through the roof into the structure, and be professionally treated as a roof penetration with an engineered roofing flashing solution. You are in the position of putting lipstick on a pig here. .

[@dc6233]

"Some" roofers do a great job, and some are absolutely horrible. They should have the unit on 2 x 6"s on the metal deck and spanning a couple trusses. I never cared where the print told me to put the RTU, unless the electric was roughed in already, I put them where I wanted and made up the ductwork to fit the register layout. I always loved being able to move things around when it made sense, these engineers go off of very old prints, they don't know what's been done to the building.

[@cody5495]

Can't you just change the angle of the drain pan and leave the unit out of level?

[@SuperVstech]

Also, the stands in place now sitting on those boards, it will settle again. THe wood needs to come out, and a more durable support needs to be put in.

[@demijenkins9486]

Your kindness is a balm to all who encounter it.

[@MoonRambo702]

Shoot some great stuff foam in there 😂

[@pomonabill220]

Air Force is sure good lookin' !!!

[@DevinHVACInc]

Sheet metal with screws then tape

[@russellhill5959]

Tape for quick fix. Take measurements for pressure treated 3 to 4' wedges. Tape tops of wedges with black deck tape. Come back during next service call and replace taped quick fix with wedges.

[@laker3]

Sheet metal is the best option.

[@Drtbiker88]

Spray foam the gap for insulating purposes, shave it down. Bend up some sheet metal with 90's and self tappers with silicone at the corners and top of screws. Should outlast the life of that unit

[@goodtimes2654]

2" x 90 degree angle (tin or light gauge stainless ) around the duct between the unit and the duct, gasketed against existing duct and unit bottom, zip screwed into the existing roof curb or duct ( not bottom of A/C ) silicone or roofing tar any seam or joint. Will outlast the unit .

[@jenko701]

Fill the gap with metal and seal with appropriate mastic.

[@BartlettTFD]

Simply jack up the BUILDING an inch or so, condensate then flows properly, PROBLEM SOLVED😂

[@atlasfueloilinc.2421]

I sawed my boat in half. No way. Not a hack a band aid. the repair will be to install 2” by 4” angle sheet metal that has room to adjust more in the future. If needed. It is what it is. Fits here. Nice

[@marielatour1384]

Very attractive❇

[@timothywalch7102]

I wouldn't modify the drain pan wedge the drain pan that way you keep it nice tight seal on the curb clearly the business needs to get a new roof it's pitched up right but the train pan would have been the solution I would have gone with please try to

[@oldskool1979]

why are you advertising NAVIEN on your vans ??

[@10minutenewhampshirebreak77]

Unfortunately he’s got to get a roofer to come refit the curb sleeper, or remove the rtu and try to patch up the curb

[@jimhvac3121]

Use vent glass to take up the gap

[@JM-iu1yg]

NAVIEN BUMPER STICKER ON VAN !! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'M TELLING BOSCH!!!!!

[@johnhaydt7563]

Seal the duct gap with duct sealer aka "pokey"

[@billmiller5075]

Make sure that trap is installed correctly, if not it will leak for sure.

[@mattmcdermott5539]

1x1 angle is what I’d use just screw 2 pieces of that to it and call it a day

[@nicholasbarrett7647]

Strips of metal and spray foam, hack but real world situation. 99% of customers will not pay for proper repair

[@Tanneritefilledfido]

That was a real low roof, should’ve just set in front of the sprinter and that rheem unit should really get lifted with tin knockers correcting the curb

[@kennethnapier131]

Frankly, we would have removed the unit, corrected the curb, and reset the unit.

[@ares3914]

Flash off the the gaps with sheet metal tape and pookie. Of course its gonna take about 2-4 hours to do the job you'll have to cut small peices of sheet metal and screw it from the unit to plenums. Once you flashed all 4 sides of each supply and return plenums tape with sticky tape and pookie what you tape and that's life time fix at least for the life time of the ynit

[@clarkgwozdecki6782]

If you sell these rheem package units with micro channel plan on doing warranty work every year. those coils suck

[@doncaranci2547]

Almost 40 grd buddy WTG

[@SuperVstech]

I would tell the customer they need a proper curb…

[@michaelkuprian01]

Try to raise the backside of the coil. Just an opinion

[@Mr.unknownx1]

I didn’t know that you do rtu

[@HVACGUY]

Hmm 🧐.

[@frankstumbo1771]

You should have shimmed the coil/pan. It would have taken a lot less effort

[@dc6233]

Easy peasy, they can be flipped so not much holds them in place...

[@uspatriot9599]

So i see your son is back working with you?

[@joea2274]

Sheet metal is your friend Mike

[@Mercmad]

Who was that ? the next John Holmes?

[@noracox3410]

love 😘😘😘😘😘😘😘😘😘

[@racecar1479]

Flex seal.!!!

[@milotorres6894]

Hack install from the beginning on the retrofit piss poor craftsmanship who ever installed did not level the connection to the unit , condensate pan pointed that out no need to work curb just level cap cover to unit connection and seal according to condensation drainage to avoid trapping moisture catch , legs on retro should have a full runner on roof catching trusses depending on runs for proper support of over hang of unit... Maybe the gist of situation , foam in behind tape , cut fill in strips of metal to cover foam retrofits inheriting a headache for sure on little jobs . A full roof jack should've been included on original retrofit bid... 😆 just my thought process..

[@lyndalawley2003]

💗

[@russhemp3754]

Shim the drain pan

[@katysalter2021]

Smokin Looking Superb (as always)

[@tmacgee1234]

Patch sheet metal, mastic on top.

[@RAYMOND169]

Spray foam

[@addisynhull2165]

💪

[@ThePappas33]

I would say in this particular case that you made the rite decision to go with the jack and tape..otherwise we are talking about unnecessary cost for a piece of equipment that's only has a few years left cause of poor maintenance .. way to go Doc.....

[@DevinHVACInc]

U need to put a Bosch sticker Over that WHJ on your truck

[@stephwaylonwells3218]

👍

[@Silky_boi]

Tape and pookie!

[@mauikawi4290]

good shit, good enough for that place. fun the haters

[@beverlydentdent2860]

cool!💝 top

[@OleRazzleDazzler]

Silicone

[@adamedwards2435]

Pipes is very entertaining.👏

[@mustangmike6421]

Duct board and pookie

[@TheJimbob1603]

Why are you advertising Navien on the side of your truck? Just to piss 'em off? Lol! Go Bosch!

[@cthomaspac]

To really do it right , you have to rip out the old curb, and install a new curb. Otherwise it's 2" angles ,screw's and silicone.

[@xetworks1]

Sorry, I don't like BOCH anymore.

[@xetworks1]

@@PipeDoctor BOSCH*