PLANS TO STOP OUR DIY CAMPERVAN FROM FREEZING!? Winter van life upgrades (Ep.1)

THIS VAN BUILD MISTAKE COULD SEE US RIP IT ALL OUT! Winter van life upgrades needed (Ep.1)
So after our recent 3 month van life adventure across Europe, and spending some amazing time snow camping in the Mountains, we have come home to do some major upgrades to our self built campervan so we can get straight back out and do some more of the same!
Our van initially wasn't built with winter camping in mind, so it simply cannot cope in extreme cold or even sub zero temperatures, so here are all the upgrades we will need to do before we can even attempt any more winter van life trips.
Most of them are all to winterize the campervan (and would be the same if you're winter proofing a motorhome) but there's one change that we need to do to make travelling with a dog easier that could see poor Lou having to rip the whole van conversion out!! She don't mind too much though 'cause she'll admit it was probably a huge van build mistake in the first place!
Hopefully some of you may find these van build and upgrade videos useful, and possibly even learn from our mistakes, but, if you are here for the travel vlogs and van life on the road content then for the next month or two we will be mixing it up with a bit of both before getting back on the road as soon as possible. Either way, as always, thanks so much for watching and coming along on this random adventure with us!
Follow us on our journey as we attempt to create a proper youtube travel series as we, two female travelers and vanlifers, attempt to travel across Europe in our rolling tiny home.
Hit the subscribe button to see where our DIY campervan takes us next and how this van life couple copes living in a van!
Check out our instagram for real time updates..
/ camper_vibe
Have a look at emily's blog for her thoughts on all things van..
campervibe.co.uk/
(this is also where you will find all our park ups and list of our film making gear)
For stickers go to the website or..
Make a £5.00 payment to
www.paypal.com/paypalme/campe...
and just leave your name and full address in the notes, just click add note.
If paypal confuses you (as it does me, Lou) then follow the below instructions;
Use your name as the reference then, email
[e-mail]
with the same name as your reference of payment and full address.
The stickers will then be shipped out, thanks again for your support :-)
*We use affiliate links from which we earn a small percentage at no extra cost to yourself. Most of this is used to keep emilys snack cupboard topped up but occasionally she lets Lou have some to buy the dog treats!

[@campervibe]

Hi folks, Happy new year!! We hope 2022 has been kind to you all so far! The comments are rolling in thick and fast on this one which is soooo appreciated as Lou is already getting some great tips! We may not be able to reply to every comment this week as we normally do as Lou is getting ready to go away and as most of you know I probably won’t understand half of them anyway lol!! Please know we will read every single one and every comment, tip, trick and just general banter is always welcome. As always, thank you all so much for watching and we will see you all soon, happy Sunday!! 😀😀

[@trailfools4668]

Bang a couple of pc fans behind the numberplate and space the plate out for airflow. They should give you enough airflow to stop it condensing low down. Did it on my transit a few years ago🤟

[@Jay-ro8xt]

In emergency you can Put a heat gun in the intake after the filter and try starting also you will want to look at getting a heating blanket for the fuel tank as the diesel turn to jelly the colder it gets

[@JohnJohn-hd1pc]

Hi Lou 🙂 Just a thought regarding your floor replacement: you could use a multi-tool with a vibrating head and fine-tooth saw head to neatly cut the floor around the outside and inside of your cabinets. I don't know if this could work, but may be an option. I know the worktops would then be ½' higher in effect than they are now, but even little people (?) should be ok with that. Love watching your stuff, and, as others have commented, your cinematography is superb. All the best.

[@kathylewis4071]

totally agree with John's suggestion.. have had to do that in a small reno.. works a treat.. 😊👍

[@crawler1965]

Just away to suggest the same idea. this would save you ripping everything out

[@nikkiashley171]

Was going to suggest the same myself!!

[@ST-zx9ue]

Same here, it will save you a lot of time and effort but still give you a nice job.

[@JohnStapleton1]

Just as well I read the comments first, I was going to suggest the same thing .

[@phrtao]

Lou, you are my absolute hero. Emily is lucky to have someone like you taking care of all the technical things in life. She would not even know all these things exist without you there to remind her 😜 I can't wait for all the rebuild vids.

[@campervibe]

🤣🤣 lucky, hmmm you don't have to clean up after her 🤣🤣

[@steved8038]

So your problem with getting under the van ? First get prepared ,buy a crawler board ( the kind that mechanics use to get under a car) get all your pipe insulation and heater blankets ready together with some strong large cable ties. Accidently knock your other half (the small person) over this is best done onto a soft surface ie carpeted area before she can get up insert crawler board under her and quickly cable tie here to the board, push outside insert under the van and when she stops screaming and swearing get here to insulate the pipework and tanks !!!😁 JOB DONE .p.s.totally love you two.

[@citizenkane4831]

It is always lovely to listen to you and Emily. Nice to hear AJ is recovering. But! Remember to buy PTFE based lock oil. PTFE prevents locks from freezing among other things. From what i could see the tires you had looks like friction tires. Nothing wrong with those if you are living where you do or on the continent. But if you go to northern scandinavia you need studed winter tires, there are a law on that. Like, Kumho WinterCraft ICE WI31 or any similar tire from any other brand. I advice you to do some research on what tires you should have where you´r going. They are also better to handle black ice. But make sure you have PTFE based lock oil with you. It can help you alot. I live in northern sweden where it gets around -25 C sometimes -35 C in the winter, getting locked out is the last thing you want to be.

[@johnhayter9245]

As a keen Ukulele player was very pleased to see your Uke in a nice warm place .... Good to see ... And can we see a bit more Uke playing in Fanny in the future .... Very informative video ... 👍👍👍

[@campervibe]

Lou does love her Uke, I'm sure there will be more playing once these upgrades are done

[@stuart121972]

Be very careful changing glow plugs, they can snap very easily and you’ll then have to have them drilled out. I replaced a set a few years ago on a Vauxhall Combo and I kept soaking them for about a week with a spray called “freeze and release” then removed them after warming the engine and spraying them again and I was very gentle with the pressure I applied to the wrench. It might also be worth looking into engine heating for use in cold climates.

[@theonlywoody2shoes]

Tank blankets vs tank heater probe: The blankets work even if the tank is empty and don’t burn out. The probes heaters need to be covered by liquid (fresh or waste) and never quite fit to the bottom of the tank, so this can be a pain if you are having problems finding fresh water and running really low, and you have to let the waste fill a bit before turning on the heater probe so it may already have frozen. The only real downside of the blanket style heater is a risk of damage if on the bottom of the tank. As well as using bubble style insulation outside the tank and heater, see if you can find some of the plastic material they make Estate Agent “for sale” signs out of - it’s light weight, corrugated inside (more insulation) but also good for deflecting stones and other objects likely to damage the tank insulation under the van. Just my 2p worth, hope this helps.

[@alfairbrother8770]

If you are going somewhere cold make sure you don't have too much UK Diesel in your tank and instead fill up on the local winter/Arctic or premium brand. Well worth the extra 2 or 3 cents a liter. Not only less likely to freeze up in the tank but easier to start.

[@gben7084]

when driving in wet or snow, SLIGHTLY apply park brake before stopping for the night to dry them out before applying to park. we did this with our brakes on semi(lorry) to prevent freezing to drums

[@ari.voutilainen]

Your thinking on winter proofing the van are on the right track. Welcome to everyday 🇫🇮. Adding heat piping for better heat and air circulation, adding a heat mat + insulation to your tanks and getting an engine block heater. Standard stuff in ”Nordic” motorhomes.

[@MrDjpete1]

Hi just a quick tip with your floor. Take the kitchen doors off and use a multi tool to cut the floor tight to the cupboard. You need to remove the doors to give a better cut. Hope this helps

[@alanhat5252]

7:30 lifting van You can drive it onto blocks. It's easier if they're different lengths so you're only lifting one wheel at a time, you can also put short blocks on top of long ones to get multiple heights.

[@davidpiper3652]

DON'T drill holes in the tank. Use a heating pad and trace heat lines on the pipes. They still might freeze, mine did, but they thaw easily when you power it up.

[@campervibe]

Thanks David

[@steinarbrevikknudsen1546]

Engine heaters can either be an electrical element mounted on the engine block, or a heater that burns petrol or diesel to heat coolant.

[@vernpasfield3892]

Bilstein B6 shock absorber struts in front/B6 shocks in rear, Firestone Air bags in rear, job done.

[@alexwedzinga]

Here in Sweden we have 2 sorts of engine heaters: -220 volt engine heaters that you need to plug in or -webasto diesel/gasoline burning heaters that don't need to be plugged in. My Peugeot boxer has a webasto engine heater that heats the coolant and at the same time it heats the inside of the van. It starts on a timer or by pushing the start button. On my Audi Q5 it starts by remote control.

[@ZL1GHZ]

Hi Lou and Em, Quick thought about the diesel heater, if it isn't easy to set up a second output duct, then it might be worth investigating whether you can install (or create!) an intake duct on the diesel heater that takes air from inside the garage space so that air circulates through the whole van and keeps the garage ventilated as well. When it comes to sorting out the suspension, make that the last thing to be done so that it can be tuned to the actual weight of the van once everything else is done. My personal preference would be to stick with conventional springs. Airbags are nice if you want to be able to raise and lower them to level the van when you park up, but you then need to install a compressor and air lines, and it's just another thing to go wrong.

[@miriamkivlehan3498]

For an extra layer of tank insulation it might be useful to paint them with liquid rubber before wrapping with the thermal blanket. Lots of products for use on things ranging from water tanks to flat roofs. You might also consider painting your existing floor with a non-slip industrial paint instead of ripping it out. As it is a hardwood laminate it would key well for application and you would retain the thermal value of the existing floor. Floor paint comes in lots of different colours and textures these days (think garage floors and wet rooms) and I think there is even a formula that dog kennels use. I have had floor paint in my cottage kitchen for 16yrs and just renewing it this year. Prep, priming and as many coats as the product recommends is the secret to a successful outcome....and it is a job that Emily could do! Looking forward to seeing Fanny's new thermal underwear!

[@richardworgan1365]

You could put a small pipe from your diesel heater to blow on your outside water tank. Richard. Stay safe.

[@lynnemarie7885]

Yeah, I live in Germany and every single person (even the lady who works as a receptionist at the car inspection place 😂) told me not to use the handbrake in the winter. This is wild for me as well, as it had never occurred to me before (and I also never had any issues. Luck I guess. Originally from the US ) I think these cold weather countries are very well adapted. Now, to just get used to not using the handbrake...

[@glennmealing6907]

I've directed the heater exhaust to the underside of the tank by the outlet. It worked to defrost the frozen water.

[@andygrayson7485]

Hello Vibes, I used to own and run a small camper business in Lancs. a few years ago, built all our own vans. We used to fit all tanks internal because the technology just wasn't there for heating outside tanks, drained the batteries way to quick...so no help there. Ive fitted over 50 Air ride suspension mods to vans and while very effective , Ive just fitted the Sumo Springs from Rhodes Vans to my sprinter (they are available for your van) and I think they work slightly better in that they are progressive in the way they work, an air bag is simply that, fill it to 20 psi and it jacks the van up but handles no better and bumps seem to be worse, great intro photography , love it ! keep up your good travels 👍👍👍

[@davegibson7264]

Having just come across your channel and caught up on a few of your vlogs, its really refreshing to see your honesty with what doesn’t work as well as what does work. For someone who is in the early planning stages of a winterised van build I will be following your decisions avidly. Keep up the great content, good luck.

[@campervibe]

Thanks Dave, yeah we will not sugar coat anything, at the end of the day it's OK to say something does not work or you made a mistake we all do right 🙂🙂

[@wizardgmb]

I have four ideas for your rebuild/upgrades based upon my time spent driving a van around the Adirondack Mountains during winter, climbing to high elevation radio sites during winter, cold weather excursions in what you call a caravan and my time as a controls engineer. By way of full disclosure, my cold weather vehicle experience is from 30+ years ago and technology has grown by leaps and bounds. - I'm glad to hear your wheels and tires performed so well but time spent in snowy, icy out of the way places exponentially increases the chances for loss of traction. I suggest you get a set of chains for the drive wheels. Don't hesitate to put them on before entering a dodgy area; some governments will punish drivers using them on clear pavement so take them off ASAP after reaching clear pavement. Some "chains" are actually abrasive synthetic elements that work almost as well as pure chain and damage roadways less. - Consider adding a winch in case you get really stuck and study the many Internet pages/videos on creative ways to save your bacon with a winch. - Most large vehicle mechanical hand brakes activate brakes on a single axle, usually the rear. If cables, rub points and pivots are kept well lubricated they rarely sieze unless slush freezes around the wheels or temperature is extreme. The best solution I ever saw for freeze ups was a friend's van with dual exhaust and flexible aluminum pipes to route the hot exhaust to the rear wheels while the engine warmed up. Once the engine and brakes were warm, the flex was removed and stored. The only caveat is to ensure all openings from inside the van to out are sealed to prevent carbon monoxide seepage. You might be able to divert air from your new rear heater duct to the rear wheels but it would take some engineering. - The biggest problems with heated areas, especially small ones, that can't be properly moderated are the position and type of thermostat. I assume your diesel heater has a remote thermostat that you dutifully mounted in the van. If it's too close to the heater outlet or an outside door that gets opened, air flow will adversely affect the thermostat trip point. Try to find a spot for the thermostat in still air and away from heat sources like the stove. Basic thermostats without intelligence turn off the heater as soon as they reach the setpoint. However, this doesn't take into account the heater needing to run longer to cool itself down before shutting off or settling of the airflow. Systems usually overshoot the setpoint unless the system has intelligence to learn shutting the system off prior to the setpoint achieves the correct temperature. The latest home heating thermostats have this capability known as "hysteresis". The same technique, also known as PID, has been used to control critical industrial processes for decades. You might find a properly placed home thermostat with a learning feature, along with your new duct outlet will give you the even temperature you desire. Keep up the great videos and above all STAY SAFE! 🚐❤️😷

[@orchidhouse297]

Love the way you let your experiences inform your plans. Sometimes a small usb fan pointed at the offending places helps to clear condensation. It worked for me around a damp window sill. Wish you both well with the changes planned.

[@shivsnorman]

I love your van build vlogs! So keep 'poncing about' as much as you like 😀

[@RadianFilms64]

That's a lot of work to be done. But can't wait to see all the solutions you come up with, to make it a better van.

[@jimdixon3131]

Have a look round caravan/motorhome dealers to see how things are fitted on the inside. What things are used to keep the weight down, check the layout. You could possibly fit a shower/toilet unit and not lose that much space.

[@kerryduffield6132]

Great ideas! We are currently winterising our under slung waste tank. Removing the tank is making it easier to work on, but now having a dining table full of van bits! Thanks for the stickers we ordered.

[@roberthunter6927]

Lou is always great and interesting, but we missed the tiny little goblin chocolate monster! :-) I recall you have a bricks and sticks place, so maybe invest in or borrow a good hydraulic floor jack and two axle-stands, rated for the weight of the van? Maybe four tons? It looks as though you will be van lifers for some time to come yet, so a trolley jack is almost essential for a DIY mechanic. [Stay safe of course]. The jacks that come with vehicles [screw or hydraulic type] are really only good for emergency tyre changes. Polystyrene is super-light, and if you sniff around a white-goods retailer or TV retail outlet, they usually have heaps of the stuff that goes to the recycling or rubbish tip. A small electric heater against the tank, and the insulation might do it. Maybe one to one and a half inches of polystyrene all round the tank. It is fragile stuff, but perhaps some thin, lightweight plastic panelling [cold tolerant] might do the job. I am thinking cheap because while you don't appear starved, you are unlikely to be millionaires. The van floor? I am thinking about 1 inch thick cork instead of the wood, topped with vinyl. Anyway, my two cents, I am not a cold expert. Around these parts, it is not unusual to hit 40+ degrees centigrade in summer. Some plasticy stuff can get very brittle at very low temperatures. Good luck Lou and I hope you get some effective advice on your problems.

[@Basilbrush207]

Hi Ladies, glad to see your still ok and Louise is still up for a challenge. I'll keep this as brief as I can as to what we installed to winterize our 6m MWB VW Crafter three years ago and why. If one point helps then job done. 1. If you are running ducting from your diesel heater to the rear, consider sleeving the ducting with Webasto duct insulation 60mm AND sleeve that with 100mm it will stop you losing a lot of heat over that length behind the cupboards allowing the van to heat up quicker. It will still be warm enough behind the panels to help stop any pipes from freezing. 2. Keep water pipes as short as possible then any self regulating heating wire you run alongside it will be shorter and hence use less electric. 3. Bring your fresh water tank inside if you can. Our van is only 6m and our Barratt tank is 100 litres but we still squeezed it in the rear (oops! sorry for the pun, blush). So much less stressful (But we still installed 2 x 15w heating pads and a 30w probe on a thermostatic switch just in case!) 4. Don't worry about the waste tank, leave that under, just have the facility to divert the drain pipe into a bucket as and when needed. Works for us even on 2 x 150A non- Lithium AGM batteries. (Ours Lead Carbon). Worst case so far was in Sweden at -16C in Jan 2020. Apart from a frozen waste tank which thawed out no damage were still rolling. Good luck with the Mods and understand if you don,t reply. I'm sure you're swamped. Too much choice.

[@marks-0-0]

Lou can i suggest for your trips carrying a lightweight jump starter in case your starter battery accidentally goes flat. Also you might already have one but an oscillating saw will help getting your floor up 👍

[@brackalack1]

Good luck with the build, sounds like a lot of hard work! Hope you both had a great Christmas 🎄🙃😉

[@campervibe]

We did thanks Kerry, hope you did as well

[@Alivefrom45]

take the doors of the kitchen and such like, then use a trim saw against the edge of the cabinet, this will enable you to remove most of the floor but leave the bits under the units.

[@Bob-thenomad]

Hi ladies, to reduce condensation in the van you need to get the diesel heater to draw sum fresh air in to get better circulation, as we breathe out half a pint of water overnight. If you have run a car in the winter with the heater on full with it set to recycled are you will see the windows steam up which is why you need to have recycled air. Keeping the roof vent but there needs to go out somewhere as in a car has outlet vents usually in the boat,

[@timsands7288]

This was really interesting and sounds like you have thought all this through really well. I had to have semi air suspension on my old van as I upplated it to 3850kg. It definitely improved the ride and was a worthwhile upgrade. Intrigued by project 2 : can't wait to find out!

[@Curtis66]

Use a multi tool to cut the floor out good luck love watching you both x

[@kenneth4254]

Hope you both had a great Christmas and New year good to see fanny getting a upgrade 😀

[@campervibe]

We did thanks Kenneth, hope you did as well

[@kevingalloway9338]

Brilliant, can’t wait to see the upgrades

[@campervibe]

We can't wait till they are done 😀😆

[@kevingalloway9338]

@@campervibe hope the weather gets better to make the build more enjoyable

[@sukamayoutube2323]

I'm literally in the middle of my second build right now. This is making me feel much better about how much I have to change around. :) yours looks so professional!

[@campervibe]

😆 this will be kind of our 3rd, always changing something right 😆

[@DA11NOON]

Looking forward to this 😀 👌

[@campervibe]

😀😀

[@01cthompson]

Here are my experiences in winter in Connecticut in the late '80s early 90s. I could not use the parking brake on my Ford pickup as it would freeze up. I did have good luck with a dip stick heater that would warm up the oil and make starts easier.

[@eddiewoolfie3891]

Lou just leave the units in place and use a mini tool to cut round them, great wee tool. You would need to be sure that there are no cables or pipes were yours cutting. Fantastic wee tool with different blades available 👍

[@emmaurbanvanlife120]

Love a mini adventure! Good luck with the upgrades!

[@campervibe]

Cheers Em

[@Therealdeal5698]

I wish my wife was as enthusiastic about all things van life... If i were you i would get some Altro flooring and fit it neatly over the existing floor. A lot less hassle and the weight that's there is low down anyway so shouldn't affect the drive too much. Good luck, I'm looking forward to following ....

[@jamesheath7596]

We have a compass auntie motorhome and we had air spring as sisters fitted. The existing springs are left in place and the air bellow devices are fitted in place of the bump stops. The system works great. The van has much less body roll on the move and they help the springs no end as it lifts the back end of the vehicle up. They cost £250 and I fitted them myself in a morning.

[@tracymilne8791]

HNY you two, so pleased you are back. Looking forward to journeying with you again this year

[@campervibe]

🥳🥳 and to you Tracy

[@globalobserver8934]

Lou, love your videos. With the fridge that always works best with cooler cold air behind it, could you fit a vent in the van to the outside and create an insulated frame to enclose the fridge in position. then your heating can maintain batteries warm as the fridge is isolated. hope you get my drift !

[@frossato]

Happy 2022! Good to see you back!

[@campervibe]

Happy 2022 to you also ❤

[@michellebouchard8454]

Perfectly timed video! I’m still in the early stages of my build so, thanks to your adventures and the comments of some of your followers, I can add some elements now to avoid issues you’ve discovered. I noticed a couple of people mentioning the covered vents at the back of Fanny. Wondering how much of an issue that actually is as I think most commercially built vans cover using the mounded plastic panels……. Looking forward to your updates

[@alejandrayalanbowman367]

Hi Lou and a Happy New Year from a rather chilly Spain. When I built an all year live in folding caravan, I put in a warm air heater and put all my pipework inside which takes up little room really, especially if you plan it out well.

[@paulwilliams8725]

Great stuff 👍

[@paulhouston670]

Insulation and electric heat-tracing of the external pipes is a good solution. Insulation only of small bore pipes won't work, no matter the thickness. Insulation will achieve a lot around the bigger tanks, especially if there is no insulation between the van and the top of the tanks.

[@honorharrington4546]

Solve two problems at once: put the toilet across from the electrical panel so it pulls out in front of the fridge location, relocate the fridge above the new toilet location. Fridge moves up for better access and more space in garage. AJ sleeps on the floor in almost the same location. Win, win, win! Put a water fill on the side of the van instead of the bottom and fill/draw off the top. Tank pad heater and pipe heater/insulation A block heater and possibly a second battery solve the cold start issue. Repair glow plugs. Good idea with the heater to solve condensation. Don't go too strong on the spring rates or the dampening with suspension upgrades, you don't want a harsh ride ruining your trips. Leave the wood floor alone and put down interlocking carpet squares. Easy install/removal for deep cleaning and easy to replace if needed. If there isn't plywood under your wood flooring you would be walking on foam that would crush down with just carpet on top. Best of luck

[@Shasha-jo5iv]

God you have such good dad energy Lou. Hoping to have the fix it attitude myself in the future as my girlfriend can't even drill a hole in the wall. Thanks for being such a good example!

[@campervibe]

🤣🤣

[@Rob.1340]

Adding a little insulation around your diesel filter is worthwhile. At -15 and below the diesel can freeze into a slush. I have experience of this as I live in Scotland. Engine starts drives a mile or so then stops . Then wait until it thaws. I used neoprene wrap, like you can get for beer cans/bottles. Worked fine. Didn’t happen again. Sometimes the little nut on top of the glow plugs comes loose and can cause starting issues, worth a check. Good luck with fanny. All the best. Cheers. 👍🐾😎

[@philtaylor9038]

As per john john below, I was going to say multi-tool, remove as many doors and draws, cut along the cabinet base section. Then once you relay the new floor see if can cover cuts over or iron on edging. If you gut it then upon installation on worktops you'll find you will need to trim around the window base or get a bigger splashback or tile.Good to see you in 2022 bet wishe to all Lou.

[@karlospappy8908]

Hi Lou, interesting times. Re your floor, it may be easier to remove all of it up to the kitchen units then cut it flush and paint the edge to match your kitchen or add a small skirting to hide the join. Looking forward to see what your going to buy as another project. Thanks K.

[@lloydbaker7104]

Don't forget ventilation under the mattress like using a waffle style pad or you will get mold under there.

[@John-In-France]

Hi, hopefully you should be able to take a multi-tool and cut the laminate around the kitchen units etc. You could then lay a padded vinyl for the main flooring and then fit a small 3x2 skirting to hold it in place and finish off around the kitchen.

[@joline2730]

Very good idea from Windswept, just what I was thinking - why overdo it, it's time and money both of which you should not waste ! 🙂

[@paulsteane897]

Hi.. We work on these vans all the time.. They all have cold start problems,make sure all the battery earth points are clean.. we put extra earth straps on the body to Gearbox and from the battery to the body.. This makes a massive difference on cold start,we do it on all the vans we work on. I would definitely look at some way of heating the oil/coolent before -10 cold start.. I personally look at heating the engine oil i’m sure you can get a heated sump plug as oil can increase in viscosity in very low temperatures which will make the engine hard to start. The rear brakes on these vans are always a nightmare I’m pretty sure the handbrake cables are freezing causing the rear brakes to stick on and overheat.. I wouldn’t use the handbrake in extreme conditions.

[@marcelkoopmans3651]

hi Lou, i would go for air suspension on the back springs. that way if you travel light you can adjust the pressure and the ride will stay comfortable.

[@christinecolson1221]

You need to plug in your engine when it’s cold and sitting for awhile. I think it’s like a dipstick you put in the oil and it has a cord with a plug through the grate in front of engine, use an outdoor extension cord to a power source. From the States, from the Dakotas.

[@sparkyhobo3844]

As per the other comments , you've carpeted over the 'passive vents' hidden inside the rear pillars ( these look like a two stroke engine inlet reed valve) , they generally vent out behind the bumpers, and only flow in one direction. Get that airflow going, and it will push the dense cold damp air out at the lowest points ( maybe worth an extra vent into the pillar at the lowest point of the pillar too?) When you have the diesel heater on, blowing towards the back of the van ( or just driving), it will work a treat. Loving your content ladies as always...... :-0)

[@pamelaselway6669]

Good luck Lou. You seem to know what you are doing and so far everything you do is brilliant. Take care both of you. X

[@PhotoSportiv]

I was about to say the same thing - all the best!!

[@campervibe]

Aw thanks Pamela 😊

[@brianogrady7900]

Great Video

[@nigelburton7408]

Forget air suspension. Go double leaf springs and change bump stops for 'sumo springs'. Will be winning combo. For tanks I would take tanks down and lag outside, install heater probe and temp probe. Fit 12v valve at tank exit so all water stays in tank and not in pipes. Ensure pipes have no sags for 'standing water' to hold. Then you can monitor tank temp and use heater as and when needed for emptying the tank. Activate valve and all water will empty with none left in external pipes. Hope that's makes some sort of sense.

[@David_11111]

yay

[@campervibe]

😀

[@georgewiltshire7196]

Hi Lou, enjoyed the vid as always, self builds are always a process of evolution, look at my pics I posted on Ems page, a labour of love. As for air assist, I’ve fitted them to our Adria 640, just about the best upgrade in my opinion, most camper vans run at or near max weight all time, now we don’t have problems with bottoming on the spring stops, no more banging, can’t recommend them enough. Good luck with your alterations👍👍

[@estherkalkbrenner5222]

Happy new Year Ladies. the additional adaptions you have planned sound really good. maybe you want to consider a additional dehumidifier for your "rear end." There are these little hygrophonic boxes filled with whatever pearls which soak up any moisture and which do last up to a few months. An old sock filled with cat litter also might be a option (but maybe this version should live in a open box to avoid water stains. about the motor heater, I could ask some friends who live in Norway. They often have something attached right to the motor where you just need to plug in the car at night. I will get back with you.

[@chrisneville7310]

I have the same van and built barn doors for the back and side doors, it's insulated to the hilt and has no condensation inside the van, be careful charging lithium in extreme conditions it will damage the battery in - temperatures, Air suspension is great but beware putting too much in. I've set mine to 20 psi and it's an awesome ride👍 Enjoy the re-build it's a never ending love affair.

[@susanc_adventures]

Looking forward to what’s in store for the four of you in 2022 💜

[@campervibe]

Bring it on 🙂🙂

[@RustyRoseAdventures]

Great video Lou! I always put a diesel heater vent under the bed but just trickling so it keeps the edge off under the bed, by squashing some of the ducting🤣 it works. Nice tips about the brakes 👍

[@lindarich3317]

Glad you’re all back safe, we’ll look forward to seeing your Fanny upgrades. There’s always a park up for you in North Wales if you need a bit of adventure

[@campervibe]

Thanks Linda 😀

[@Richard-lr5wn]

Hi Guys, been watching you vids for probably 2 or 3 months now. I've been watching KZbin on my TV so haven't ben able to leave any comments so far. (don't worry I've subscribed and always hit that big fat thumbs up) 👍But...... just thought I'd nip onto my laptop to say how much I'm enjoying your vids and especially your verbals...😂 I can appreciate how much effort and hard work that goes into each one, so just wanted to take time out to say keep up the good work, I'm loving it. Being a London Lad who's lived away for many many years, your verbals with each other bring back so many memories and just crack me up at times. Also having done lots of traveling around the place over the years myself, its good to see the slightly different way you vanlifers go about it all.👍 So all the best and keep on enjoying what you do.... trust me its going down well...

[@campervibe]

Hey Richard, thanks for taking the time to comment for the first time, glad you are enjoying the vids, we do love making them and being able to share and even better you like the way we speak 😆😀

[@tomas5376]

For the water tank consider installing a low power recirculating pump into your system. When it’s turned on it constantly keeps your water flowing through the pipes and back to the tank. For the floor, how about trying inexpensive carpet on top of it first. Maybe some kind of thin indoor/outdoor carpet. Buena suerte!🙏🏼

[@andyglawe7804]

Knaus's solution for winterising underslung tanks is an insulated box which has blown air heating sent into it which you can control by opening or closing a flap. You have a diesel heater in the van which you could use for this. Possibly build a plywood box (insulated with armorall lagging) and then run vent pipes to the box. Rather than a heating element which will not survive really low temps. Tank blanket is another possibilty.

[@campervibe]

Cheers Andy, love all the info 🙂🙂

[@TelBil2010]

Happy New Year ladies, great to hear from you again. Good luck with the rebuild, can't wait to see the outcome. Terry

[@campervibe]

Cheers Terry, HNY to you as well

[@terry9108]

Great video girls, cold weather preparation can't wait to watch. May I suggest using two cheap diesel heaters. Your current one at the front, additional heater in the back to help with condensation. If one fails you have a backup, both can also be run at lower heat setting.

[@ivecamperbuild_thomas4084]

You need to have a chat with Ash he as been there and done it , brakes will freeze in really cold weather even your diesel can freeze . If you get some 16mm sticks to hold the units up while your get them out you can cut some of the flooring that you can get up . Regarding fitting a heat blanket to the tank is a good idea in theory but it will be the pipes that will freeze first anyway . If you really want to protect your pipes from freezing it can be quite a big job but not too expensive you can always have you diesel heater with another Y or T peace with pipe reduction to a smaller size and run the pipes next to your tank and your pipes but the easier we is to fit another heater underneath your van just to heat your tank and pipes but you will use more diesel. Having said that the easiest way is to lag your pipes but also cover them so when your driving in snowy condition the snow dose not stick to the lagging or pipe work we used to use and they more likely still do in the armed forces on vehicles that are being used in extreme conditions you can use plastic guttering and all you have to do is heat the edges with a heat gun or a blow lamp so you can screw it to the floor body . Which will not ad weight to your van ,I’m not one for writing ✍️ so I hope I have explained it that you understand

[@melaniejourneaux3328]

Good luck with all the changes you need to make to get your van ready for the cold,snow and ice . Lots of hard work for you , but have every faith in you to get the job done . Happy new year to you both and Fanny Xx

[@campervibe]

Thanks Melanie 😀

[@suetocker1914]

Oh it's so nice to see you girls again! You have got so much handy advice from this lovely community which reflects how fond we all are of you, and the respect that you deserve with all your hard work. Realise there's still plenty more to do but with all of us behind you you've got this!! Much love as always from NZ (PS I have managed a few overnighters in my old van, absolutely loving it) Not bad considering this time last year I was stuck in a brain rehab unit after a cycling accident, life is truly good😊😊💜🧡💙 xxxxx

[@campervibe]

Wow Sue that is amazing, what a difference a year makes right 😀

[@barryjeffries2067]

Great post yet again Lou. I feel your pain about the flooring. If your going to run another heat duct from front to back it might be best to strip it all out and start again. It might be worth it in the long run. Go luck with it all.

[@simonadams4112]

Hi Lou,had the same suspension problem on my sprinter based Autosleeper coachbuilt ,I have had vans for 35years fitted airbags to the rear suspension on every van . It has transformed the rear of my van, the ride was so hard the van was being shaken apart and walls were coming adrift. The air has helped trans for the ride it is now so comfortable and helps with the handling ,you will not regret fitted air to the rear .

[@geoffc1385]

Great vid as always . love your big garage. You'll have no have no trouble with rain working in there. !!!!! Brakes don't like cold weather and being left wet when you park. Having used preheater on a diesel, I can tell you they use a considerable amount of power and need to be on for a couple of hours because it needs to heat the block and cylinder head to be effective. That's a fair old lump of steel to get warm. I would doubt even the Jackery would cope with that.

[@gillrestorick6997]

Happy New Year to all four of you :) Another great vlog, looking forward to seeing the improvement ones too.

[@campervibe]

Happy New Year Gill 🙂

[@jonathanspence7721]

Get yourself a multitool and you can cut down into the floor or alternatively a track saw might work... Multitool is worth having for a hell of a lot of jobs so I'd say get that first. All the best for the renovations.

[@chrisscannell5635]

C.A.K. Heaters (on eBay) 12v /36watt/3amp ..has internal auto thermostat:- on 5* above freezing 🥶 and off at 10*. Drill the hole in the tank with a tapered cutter (as opposed to a starrat/hole saw) to get an exact/forced fit even though silicone will also be used. Remember to order the metal external bracket if you cannot access the inside of the tank. They can fit either horizontally or vertically subject to clearances. Also Dunlop Air suspension-fit and forget. Chris.

[@emilia1382]

Great to see u back online. Happy New Year to u both 🍾

[@campervibe]

Good to be back, HNY

[@kerryannestevenson6099]

Love watching you two,good luck with the upgrade and Happy New Year to you both.

[@campervibe]

Thanks Kerry and HYN 😀

[@hayleydavis4556]

We had the same cold start / glow plug issue. We were at -17 and had brand new glow plugs and the van still didn't want to start, so I think you're right about the additional engine heating you'll need!

[@hivlady4527]

Hello to you both. I'm no vanlifer/Mechanic but, I just wanted to wish you all the best for the rebuild. Stress levels will be High obviously so try and keep as calm as possible and try to enjoy it. You both will have a great van before you know it. Sending Good vibes.

[@campervibe]

Thanks for the good vibes, lou loves a good van build 😆🙂

[@krustykamper]

Hey Lou, looking forward to seeing you cold weather upgrades, My van was also built with warmer weather in mind, but getting the winter blues now. So interested to see how ya tackle the jobs :)

[@campervibe]

We hear ya on that one, keep an eye out 🙂

[@cliveneilands1449]

Hi guys! Great vid! I live in Sweden so I'm well versed in chilly environments. Here is some advice: 1. Don't use handbrake but just leave it in reverse, small chocks are fine. 2. Do a ceramic treatment on your glass as its easier to defrost. Why not ceramic coat the whole vehicle, protection against salt is so much better than dealing with rust. 3. Lubricate your door seals with silicone lube. 4. Lube your locks. 5. Diesel block heaters are amazing. 6. Winter diesel is a must. The coldest I've experienced is -40 and I used my diesel block heater. Good kit. I sleep at home with a window open all year, ventilation and heat is the only way, sure cracking a window will lose some heat but at least you won't get condensation.

[@pauliwallnuts2804]

Cant wait for the van update videos. I started watching the channel for fanny's build and stayed. You two provide great content (+ AJ & Summer)... keep it up 👍

[@campervibe]

Aw thank you and wow you are amazing for putting up with us for so long 🤣

[@wayneseal2314]

Land Rover use Webasto heaters to preheat the engine and cabin. Why don't you take a third outlet forward into the engine bay from your current heater. The best insulation for vehicles is Dacron insulation, you use spray contact adhesive to afix to the bulkhead. Saves weight and works really well keeping you warm/cold. One of the reasons your van gets really cold in the winter is due to it being white. But, it also helps to keep it cooler in the summer as white reflects the sun away. You could also wrap the van in a different colour for winter! Solar, 20W is 20W you should always over spec for your solar. Just missed you in Germany as I was also heading back to the UK.

[@alanhat5252]

5:30 water tanks. I've never had a frozen tank but I have had a frozen _sink drain_ On the side of the road I sawed it off just below the floor & let it drain on the ground. (Sawing ice upside down when you know what's above it isn't fun) First repair was to just hang a bucket off the chassis, later I had push-fit piping & all sorts of scraps of guttering & blocks taking the water to drains or whatever was close enough. Ice comes out of guttering but not out of pipes.

[@Nadirulu]

If you light a classical (not led) bulp next to fresh water tank, it helps. 20-30 watts are ok. You do not need your water is warm. Just 3-5 c is ok.

[@carolinenicholsonphotography]

Love this. Desperate to convert a van for me and my family for snow adventures. Can’t wait to see how you get on. So impressed with the wealth of knowledge you have.

[@campervibe]

That would be wonderful if you do, and you can see what to do and what not to do from us 😆