Plasterboarding the garden room. Tools, materials and tips

Plasterboarding my garden room, in this video I explain how we cut and fix when we are plasterboarding. In this video we look at the tools and techniques that we use as a professional team
I also address the debate surrounding fixing plasterboard horizontally and vertically to stud walls
Here is the link to the plasterboard access panels
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[@LloydTaylor]

So efficient and well prepared!

[@michaelplays2449]

Great video , thanks

[@samposton9101]

Super neat Robin, lots of prep work and preplanning for all the grounds that’ll never get seen. Coming along nicely now

[@jonathanp4128]

I would be intersested in the stud wall detail to allow you to pour your screed after the stud wall has been erected. Currently doing a selfbuild up Northand installing 8.4m Posijoists with a load bearing partition in the middle, however no screed down. I was just going to Acro prop them up but if I could get the wall in that would be great and save me buying the props. Pretty much building my own house off of your videos so keep up the good work :D

[@DaveMovold]

Wow !! That is the most detailed drywall work I've ever seen, A laser for the studs ! My drywall crew just slams up the board. :( Great Work Robin !! Cheers from Canada.

[@ukconstruction]

Thanks Dave from Canada!!!

[@blotontheland]

Great vid as always Robin, you could really hear the difference in sound when you moved from the open space ito the area where you had installed the installation, I didn't realise how big of a difference this was until you hear side by side.

[@ukconstruction]

It really works! Glad that you could notice the difference

[@jonathanhammond6913]

Hilti all day Robin 👌

[@garywheeley5108]

Get yourself a board lifter for ceilings game changer

[@v8motors.]

Just done a load of Siniat sound boards, very heavy 2400x1200 i marked all out using those dims for soundstop ceilings. I was having trouble with the centres on 2400 as the furring channel is only 30mm wide. Found out every single 2400 board is actually 2395mm in length this eventually made it hard to hit centre especially when two boards are to be drywall screwed to one furring channel.

[@BillyMustang101]

For the German houses i was building in the UK, our plasterboard was 2720 x 625 x 18. Manufactured specifically for our houses. You know you've been fitting those bad boys!

[@ukconstruction]

Nice!!!

[@hunchbackaudio]

From a Dutch perspective it’s so weird seeing wires running freely trough walls, without any tubing. I guess it’s what you’re used to. But very nice clean job. Learning something every video.

[@groomey16]

Hi robin I also use the makita drywall cutter and found that makita sell a dust guard for it the makita 139449-2 although it says it’s for the newer dco181 it fits straight on the older dco180 and makes a hell of a difference!

[@ukconstruction]

Nice one Aaron will check that out!!

[@peterwooldridge7285]

Land of the giants

[@truth3358]

Great videos Robin can you advise me on which is the best sealer for the ends off my new primed doors as I live in a 150 year old cottage in the DEEP Irish countryside to cut down the warping please

[@garethmorgan8475]

Up to 6m long boards here in Australia, even on ceilings....minimises butt joins. 1200 or 1350 widths

[@llamedosr7843]

I aspire to be as tidy as that

[@sidefack]

Credit to the festool it's considerably quieter than the other two.

[@dougsaunders8109]

Doesn’t matter the tool it is the bloke driving it, just ask Ed 😉 Lovely when everything is so square. I am currently boarding out a shower in our 480 year old house. Lots of packing off 🙈🤯🙈

[@SmallWonda]

Mornin' Robin, from Tasmania - can you tell us about that router - I think it would make a good pressie for hubby. Have you done a series on routers? Q: Were you taught how to plan out a job (like you do), or is this the culmination of your years of experience - finding ways & means to make life easier & more fool-proof? - Subject for a book methinks. Have a g'd 'un!

[@billrimmer5596]

Our most common drywall here is 4feet by 8feet. 1/2 thick. And we do 16 or 24 inch centers. Is it exactly the same in UK? Or r the dimensions just close? I know that u remember the inch and foot system Robin. Thank u for the lovely vid. I am really enjoying the Garden Room series!!

[@ukconstruction]

Hi Bill, good to hear from you, we used to have imperial boards and use 16 or 24 inch centres what we have now is the metric equivalents so 1200 x 2400 and so on and yep our centres are slightly closer at 400 or 600, glad you are enjoying the series, we will be tiling the pool soon!!

[@olgajoachimosmundsen4647]

It's interesting how you put noggins into the wall.As far as I see we only use noggins in ceilings and at bottom/top of the wall here in Norway with 1/2" plasterboard, or when fire-proofing. How much do you consider it to be important to use noggins when laying 1/2" sheetrock. Do you think the joint will crack?

[@paul_my_plumbs_uk]

👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿 Robin. Its taking shape ♣️👊🏾 i got plastered watching this 🍺🍺🍺 certainly not bored 📺👀😴😴😴 CRACK ON🎉🎉🎉

[@martindorrance8133]

Ed looks like Robocop! 😀

[@TheHeath97]

Always love these vidoes, learned a lot. question about noggins being inline, other people stagger the noggins getting ending fixings as this is faster and possibly stronger, rather than having to skew nail one end. Why do you prefer them to be inline? Would love some feed back about this, Thanks!

[@needaman66]

Its a preference. Kiwis go inline, Aussies stagger.

[@ukconstruction]

I'm definitely straight!!!

[@needaman66]

@@ukconstruction are we talking about the same thing? 🤣

[@eldoradocraftsman3733]

Excellent. PLEASE tell me you boxed in all your Festool Systainers you have on top of the walls? 🤣🤣. I don’t wish it but that would be Hilarious 😂 👏🏾👏🏾👍🏾

[@ukconstruction]

Easy done!!!

[@richardstevenson2727]

👍

[@lhfloors]

Nice work Robin may I ask as that is such a big garden room/pool room I guess is it going to be hired out to the public or is it just for individual use thanks

[@ukconstruction]

Hi Leslie, this is only for family use!! Big family!!!

[@davetaylor4741]

Slightly off on your Oz board size Robin. Biggest sheets we put up are 6M x 1350mm. Bit bigger than 3.6M. And they get used on ceilings too. Our walls the sheets are laid down. Not vertical. The idea being if the room is less than 6M only one horizontal joint. No skim coat only tape joints.

[@ukconstruction]

Wow!! Dave that's massive!!

[@needaman66]

Was about to write same thing lol

[@wallywillis1624]

I’ve seen footage of a bloke in Aus carry 5 x 6m sheets at once. All sheets. One go.

[@davetaylor4741]

@justachippie We cheat. Wind them up with a sheet lifter. Holds them up no effort until you get enough screws in.

[@needaman66]

@justachippie try throwing sheets at 62 😢

[@simongb7897]

I've been installing vertical at home thinking I know that's wrong because most guides say fix horizontal due to strength and grain.

[@marlowjoinery9783]

Hi Robin That’s an unreal garden room, I board horizontally and start at the ceiling and put the cut to the floor, are them routers worth it ? Got to be better than a pad saw .

[@ukconstruction]

Love this small router Mark, super quick and accurate!! If you are running Makita 18v then this is a great addition to your kit and bare its about £120 from memory!!

[@marlowjoinery9783]

@@ukconstruction I do loads of boarding so Il get one at some point thanks Robin great video

[@fwr0132]

Would you recommend the Festool screw gun? How does it compare vs the other 2 after using them for a while?

[@stevehamlett1183]

Can’t beat the hilti

[@scotland2256]

Have used both, new Hilti is far superior in my opinion

[@cj-rb8fz]

Be careful on putting insulation round the cables for a ring main as it can derate the current capacity of the cables and you should derate the fuse accordingly

[@superwas12]

Only if the cables are completely surrounded by insulation then a derating factor of 50 percent would apply to the current carrying capacity of that cable. Like your standards Robin, but them cables look closer than 50mm to the visible face of the plasterboard, surely the insulation would push the cables towards the back face of the boards?

[@ashtonormesher9682]

Australia has 6 metre long boards and 1350 wide boards for 2.7 high rooms

[@ukconstruction]

blimey!!! no wonder our Aussie mates are super hench!!!

[@zlock97]

We can get 2.7 high boards but most builds are 2.4 high! And we dnt tend to run our plasterboard horizontal

[@Atsaki13]

Does that plasterboard router not nick/ damage the cables? Could certain cables become wrapped up round it? Just curious if there's a safety feature to them to prevent damage. After watching fully Edit: If you didn't set the depth, could this cause an issue?

[@ukconstruction]

Well it may, the tip of the cutter is smooth and not too sharp, the cables are well out the way usually

[@Atsaki13]

@Robin Clevett Thanks for the reply Robin. Feel like I'd need to have a look at one and have a little play.

[@videostarish]

Is it not supposed to be the grey side out for plastering onto Rob...? 🤔

[@ukconstruction]

There is a dark side and a light side, the light side is the plastering/finishing side, that is what you are looking at in the video

[@videostarish]

@@ukconstruction Ok. Just that I've always heard, & seen it written on the grey side of sheets, "plaster on this side", but no one ever does.. 🤔☺️

[@rjkelectrical6086]

In your stud work the cables are not in any zone majority of them. They need to run horizontal and vertical from an accessory or 150 mm from the top or edge of the wall.

[@ukconstruction]

Did you watch and hear all the narrative in the video where I talk about wiring zones??

[@rjkelectrical6086]

@@ukconstruction so why don’t your cable runs follow bs7671 then?

[@acat6821]

Zones are up to a depth of 50mm. After that cable zoning is not required. The studs are 100mm in depth with 12.5 or 18mm board, this leaves at least 25mm in the direct centre of the stud where cables do not require to be zoned. That's the regs. Now, I would always zone cables everywhere regardless of this 50mm depth. But, in this case the cables comply with bs7671.

[@mrsbradpittiful]

In Aussie 3.6 meter sheets are for amateurs 6 meters or nothing rob. Tests the shoulders out when throwing them up all day over head but that’s why we are all male models 😂

[@ukconstruction]

thats mad!!! we would not be able to even get them into any of the rooms here!!!! good to hear from my tradie brothers in Australia!!!

[@lhfloors]

Hi Robin why Are you going for Plaster in the garden room yet you went tape and joint in your house Build what is the reason behind this in your mind many thanks

[@ukconstruction]

Hi Leslie, I am choosing wet plaster in the garden room because of all the angles and slopes etc, I do prefer traditional plastering too!!

[@MrAidanfleming]

Why all metal boxes and not just fastfix plastic ones? So much easier and faster

[@jonathanchappell9596]

If they have the same experience as I do it’s because the thread brackets on plastic boxes are rubbish. Metal is stronger and more reliable.

[@ukconstruction]

I agree with Jonathan, I have used the plastic ones in the past but they are pretty weak and you cannot beat a well set out and fixed metal backbox

[@MrAidanfleming]

@@jonathanchappell9596 oh really, I’ve never had an issue with them tbh. I understand they are stronger but takes so much longer!!

[@MrAidanfleming]

@@ukconstruction that’s fair enough guys, keep the content coming Robin!

[@jonathanchappell9596]

I’ll 2nd that your knowledge and experience is 2nd to none Robin. As my old boss would have said, you can’t buy experience! Love listening to you give advice 👏🏻😉👍🏻

[@scottsparky1]

that wiring isn't in cable zones

[@rjkelectrical6086]

Exactly what i said! If I listened correctly he said anything 50mm in depth cable zones apparently don’t apply?? 😂 not sure where in bs7671 it says that lol

[@scottsparky1]

@@rjkelectrical6086 seams like cable zones only apply to electricians as there the only people that know what they are

[@rjkelectrical6086]

@@scottsparky1 haha couldn’t agree more mate

[@andyh9928]

See 522.6.202. It states cable requirements - Notice the OR at end of each point a to f. Robin has met point (a) so does not need to be in prescribed zones.

[@rjkelectrical6086]

@@andyh9928 please explain further? That doesn’t make no sense

[@pitonsti]

The more I look at it, the more fkups I see. The way you waste time and materials is very impressive. Not to mention the quality of the boarding. Just stay away from drylining.

[@Samwise457]

Are we watching the same video?

[@pitonsti]

@@Samwise457 Apparently you're watching this one while I'm watching a Japanese woman cooking. And I've no idea about drylining while you do. Sure.

[@Samwise457]

@@pitonsti defiantly not watching the same video then, no one is Japanese or cooking…

[@ukconstruction]

I am really happy to be told what we are doing wrong as nobody is perfect, are you in the Trade and can you maybe film and show us what we should be doing?? I am also happy to learn better techniques and methods!! Bring it on!!

[@billrimmer5596]

Robin is the absolute best. And he mentioned how they use their small pieces, or matching pieces. I am with S.P. Joinery, u couldn’t possibly b watching what I’m watching. I get the biggest kick out of the Three Stooges when they do construction work. I’m not sure have them in the UK. But that might b the vid u we’re watching. Just saying.

[@TheDickPuller]

12.5mm x 2.4m x 1.2m is the most common size sheets of Plasterboard here in the UK. Anything else will not be standard stock in Builders’ Merchants. 600mm centres studs, bosh done!! Here in Scotland we rarely Skim Plaster over Plasterboard, Tape n Fill is a much better, quicker job.

[@scotland2256]

CCF stock 2.7 and 3 meter boards, Plaster is a much better finish than taping in my opinion, tapers on sites can be torture