Paraffin kerosene petrole heater E0 E1 E2 E3 E4 Error - Easy Fix

[@Mike_526]

Hi, i get e0 error, what can i do? thanks, Mike

[@EngineTuning]

Bite the bullet Mike. Until you have cleaned up the flame rod, and combustion chamber, you are not going to be certain of anything. BTW... Have you considered subscribing? The new KZbin rules are going to hit smaller help channels like mine. They are demanding 1,000 subscribers per year. Subscribing is a zero cost option, and takes milliseconds to implement. Consider doing this for anyone on KZbin that gives up their time to help people ;)

[@EngineTuning]

So... what happened?

[@Mike_526]

Hi, sorry for the late reply cleaned everything, unfortunately without success greeting Mike ...channel aboniert and geliked :-)

[@EngineTuning]

Damn! Normally, when people clean up the flame rod, their problems disappear. From this point, it could be anything. The official reason for E0 = old or poor quality fuel. Have you replaced all the fuel with fresh fuel? Have you tried using best grade fuel kzbin.info/www/bejne/moPQo3iFd9h4etk Perhaps it just needs some decent fresh fuel. (Fuel can absorb water over time) Think of the history leading up to the error. Had the heater been working perfectly for 3 weeks? Did the error occur when you first started the heater this year? Have you accidentally knocked the heater? The heater history could indicate the fault. BTW - thanks for subscribing :)

[@Mike_526]

fresh fuel! that was it Many Thanks Mike

[@moisesguaiquin5510]

Hello my friend.. after a lots of days with diferent errors.. finaly i founded your exceptional video.. never i thought that youtube it was so useful to fix my stove.. Thanks a lots.. from Chile. We follow your instructions with my daughter and it was really easy to dissamble our TENKI STOVE

[@EngineTuning]

That's great feedback Moises. Thank you for your kind words :)

[@andrzejbielewicz6121]

Thank you very much for this tutorial. Wonderful tutorial. My model is an Inverter 5728NF bought in 2023. The stove was hard to start, and after a while there was an E4 error. I used cheap kerosene. Interestingly, the flame sensor and the magneto were covered with a white substance. Coal would be black, would it? I cleaned everything with steel wool There was carbon inside the burner which I removed. The stove works beautifully.

[@EngineTuning]

Great story, with a happy ending :)

[@keepsmiling1484]

Thank you so much for the heater videos - saved me a fortune as was having problems with a couple of heaters and now fixed - really appreciated your detailed commentary and patience - excellent tutorial, and very much appreciated!

[@clandskron]

Thanks for your tutorial, I had a Heater with a lot of problems, I almost sent it to the trash...because of you now is working 10 points.

[@EngineTuning]

Thanks for that feedback Christopher :)

[@Akadectra]

Hi, thank you so much for this excellent video. You have technically detailed it in an unbelievable manner for our information....It is by the way a very big pleasure to hear you speaking. For me as a non-native auditor this is a very lovely and understandable English. Best greetings from Bavaria/Germany.

[@EngineTuning]

Thank you for those kind words Akadectra :)

[@PaulBridgestock-y8q]

Fabulous. I followed your instructions to fix our heater and it worked perfectly. Thank you so much. Paulus

[@EngineTuning]

Great news Paul; thanks for the feedback :)

[@PaulBridgestock-y8q]

Hi again. Thank you for your response and I hope you don't mind me contacting you back. I have another identical model which is showing E8 as an error code. I shall strip it down as I did the other model, (it does not have a removable top, just panels to the front and rear. Would you think it is a different type of problem? I shall of course service it anyway. Kind regards and have a nice weekend. Paulus (from France).@@EngineTuning

[@EngineTuning]

@@PaulBridgestock-y8q It's hard to say Paulus. I guess that you are going to make that discovery :)

[@iTheDevil]

Thank you, mate! I have the sre 1330 tc, guessing it has multiple brand names. I got it from some caravaner who seems to have fed it usual diesel. When I tried to start it up, it constantly shut off with E03 error. I got a proper parafin for it, but still the same thing. As per your advice I did clean the flame rod and also the combustion chamber (it is a separate easily removable part in my heater). Btw, the combustion chamber had a lot of oily leftovers of supposedly diesel. After cleaning I ran it for 10 minutes non stop with no errors. So yeah, what I am trying to say is cleaning the flame rod and combustion chamber is a very first thing to do =) Thank you!

[@EngineTuning]

Nice feedback ... thanks for taking the time :)

[@danielsilva9502]

Thank you so much, man! My wife was about ready to throw it away after we saw the E0 error and a bunch of white smoke came out every time it tried to ignite, now as the winter is coming, I said: "You know what, if we're just gonna dump it, I might as well open this bad boy up and see if there's something I can do" Lo and behold, I find your video and spend the afternoon dismantling it to get to the flame rod, apparently it had some trash stuck to it, and I used white wool and a bit of alcohol to clean it up, as well as the igniter and everything around that area. It was harder to reassemble than to disassemble and I'm pretty sure I mixed up at least one of the screws. Anyway, I fire it up outside (if it blew up, at least it wouldn't happen inside) and I was half-expecting it not to work. Then the flame comes on and my wife comes out to see it, making me feel like the man of the house, haha! Thanks again! Nothing beats a good fire to warm up at night time. Thanks for saving me a hundred bucks on a new heater!

[@EngineTuning]

Marvelous story Daniel ... hahaha ... he who dares wins :D

[@markmoz]

Thanks. Your videos have been a great help this winter for trouble shooting a multitude of problems with my heater. I too live in France and you're right, paraffin is excessively expensive here. The missus just payed 30 euros for a bidon of 20l.... More expensive than diesel.

[@EngineTuning]

Yeah ... you must shop around ... Weldom maybe?

[@Chris-sj4nh]

thanks a lot !! My wife is very proud of my because I was able to fix the old stove in a very cold day. Thanks once again for sharing this value information. (my stove brand was tenki, which the disassemble was just a little bit different). greeting from Chile :)

[@EngineTuning]

That's great news Christian. Our women, definitely appreciate a man who can make things work. Thanks for the feedback :)

[@cristianpumero2093]

Nice. Genial. También tengo una Tenki

[@Petromaxer117]

Very helpfull repairing my Zibro Laser heather. A big THANK YOU from the Netherlands !

[@EngineTuning]

Great news ... just in time, as winter approaches :)

[@gerardobermudez3508]

Hola, hace 30 minutos mi estufa Corona FH-2506 mostro 2 veces seguidas el error E4, asi que mañana aplico las lecciones aprendidas en su excelente video, muchas gracias

[@EngineTuning]

Thanks Gerado. Good luck with the fix :)

[@shehabshalabi7753]

Thank you alot i have successfully fixed my heater thats shows E1 It happened after bad kerosene, i clean the tank and the pump also the flame road it works as sharm

[@EngineTuning]

Beautiful work ... beautiful conclusion :)

[@rabikiyani8288]

Hi how u did that.. Im trying but failed. Can u help me with that. Please do a favour and let me know the details. Send ur num or as u easy but please let me know. Thank you.

[@shehabshalabi7753]

@@rabikiyani8288 sorry for being late, as i mentioned the tank was full of bad kerosene, so first thing you need to take out the tank and wash it i used citrus the one we use to clean the oven it returns the tank clean i spray in the flame road also to clean it, after all dried put all back again it will work, good luck.

[@shehabshalabi7753]

I miss spelled cetris the cleaner, so its cetris.

[@lasbi666]

thanks very much. fixed e3 on my heater very easily thanks to your video.

[@EngineTuning]

Great news :)

[@patagualianmostly7437]

I've watched a few of these videos on other sites..... Your warning about the screws into the aluminium base is spot on....I shudder & cringe when I see these people using a power drill to remove and, worse, reinstall screws....Unbelievable... a screw 5mm in length or even less and they run the risk of cross-threading the screw, stripping the thread or worse, shearing the damn thing. I just don't understand how anyone would use a power driver on such fragile components. Madness! It's the epitome of laziness.

[@EngineTuning]

For the community, it's always interesting to gain shared knowledge :)

[@alexisdiaz5079]

Thank you for tour kind explanatios.. for your efforts and also by the subtiles

[@EngineTuning]

Thanks Alexis for those kind words :)

[@mikelane4896]

Thanks mate for your video, you saved my heater from the dust bin!

[@EngineTuning]

Nice one Mike! Thanks for taking the time to report back :)

[@nicourtubia742]

Thank you for making and uploading this video, it has been very helpful. Greetings from Chile.

[@EngineTuning]

Very pleased to have helped you. Thank you for the positive feedback.

[@maesitos]

I bought a couple Zibro LC SL 530 totally new but the guy had them idle for two years and with the tank loaded. One of them shows E02 but at least I can feel some heat at the beginning and I am able to see something red inside looking through the window. I hope pumping out the old fuel and putting it in the expensive stuff will make it happen! Thanks for the vid.

[@EngineTuning]

Yeah, this is normal. The old fuel both evaporates, and attracts moisture. Clean all the old fuel out. Refill with the expensive fuel, and add 0.5% - 1% acetone (if you can source it). :)

[@maesitos]

@@EngineTuning 85€/20L for the refined fuel ouch!

[@EngineTuning]

@@maesitos That is madness!!!!! What country do you live in? At worst, the price should be no more than the price of diesel. It is more refined, but the tax should be lower for heating fuel. I'm in France. It is usually sold in supermarkets (on pallets). Last winter, it was cheaper than diesel. Typically €22 for 20 litres. So far, I haven't seen it for sale this year (it's still quite warm). Maybe, next time I'm in a supermarket, it will be there. I too, wonder what they will be charging (the robbing bastards)....

[@maesitos]

@@EngineTuning wow that is cheap. I am in Spain right now checking the prices at LeroyMerlin. The prices go from 50€ per 20L to 80€ for the “extremely” refined as they call it. I believe in Spain, the use of “Petrol” is not wide spread and can’t be found in much places. Probably because gas is subsidized and it is the goto combustible for off-grid heating. I am not sure if those 50€ Toyotomi bottles will work to revive my heater.

[@EngineTuning]

@@maesitos Yes, they will be fine. The ultra expensive fuel is more about reduced odour. I don't use it. Overall though, the Spanish prices are extortionate. Just checked carrefour prices for 20lt. The cheap is €32.90 Expensive is €35.90 I expected it to have risen in line with diesel. If you are buying 5 or 6 for the winter, a trip to France could be paid for with the savings :D

[@afzaalkhan.m]

Very informative video .thank you. I have a sanyo electric - kerosine heater that is not operational. I am hopeful that with these video instructions I will be able to get it operational . Controls work but ignition Mak Pakistan

[@EngineTuning]

Best of luck with the repair project :)

[@chalochannel]

Thanks A LOT. It really works!

[@EngineTuning]

Good news Chalo :D

[@kryssllerdaniels-j9749]

Gracias por tu video! Tengo una estufa láser a parafina y logré solucionar mi problema. El modelo es "kendal klp 36"

[@EngineTuning]

Bravo Daniel! Thank you for the feedback :)

[@PeterGriffin-h4g]

Hi love your tutorial would you have any idea why my heater won’t power up ? I’ve tried a working control panel & cleaned the heater also all the fuses seem ok (tested ) ! New plug top / i have severel heaters & kind of know how to strip them down but I cannot see anything that seems burnt out it would be appreciated if you have an idea why there’s no power getting to the heater ! Kind regards

[@EngineTuning]

When you say "control panel" do you mean the motherboard? Either way, with a multimeter, you should check that there is mains voltage to the transformer, and the output to the motherboard. Good luck :)

[@PeterGriffin-h4g]

@ thank you I will get my son to test it ‘ I meant the control panel thanks again kind regards

[@pl3983]

You mention adding 1% acetone to the fuel mix. Does this mean adding 100ml acetone to 10l kerosene. Is acetone normally 100%? Great video.

[@EngineTuning]

1lt = 1000ml x 1% = 10ml Acetone sold as 'acetone', will be pure (unless clearly stated otherwise ie. it wouldn't be called acetone). I have heard it said, that lacquer thinner is pure acetone ... I have not verified this. :)

[@atelierozo]

Hi, at time frame 7:31 a ring is showing that I miss in my burner. Where can I buy or find this ring, or a partnumber?? Grts Eric

[@EngineTuning]

I don't know where you can get one. Try ebay :D

[@fredb7814]

Hello, I got a rather old Zibro Laser SRE 166...hardly used it. It still works . Does it need any maintenance ? Or if it runs it runs .... thank you very much.

[@peacebro5251]

E--2 Kerosene LC30 Should i go the procedure you are presenting or is there a simpler solution? (besides the official service) Thank you Athens Greece.

[@EngineTuning]

The advantage of an official service, is that they will be able to run diagnostics, if the problem is not the flame rod. However, cleaning the flame rod almost always solves the problem. It's your choice ;)

[@peacebro5251]

@@EngineTuning Thank you sir for your prompt answer. Besides the solution of my problem your video is very informative.. I ll keep it for future use. Have a nice day.

[@ericvandeee]

Thx 4 the video, i wil clean it and see if it working again. I got a E-2 code, starts and then stops again. I wil fix it i am sure.

[@EngineTuning]

It is likely an unstable flame, causing the safety shut down to kick in. If it has old fuel from last winter, then that is a probable cause.

[@ericvandeee]

@@EngineTuning i always use fuel that i bought last winter a little bit and never had this problem before. I still did not fix problem. My laser looks a lot different from yours i must say.

[@EngineTuning]

@@ericvandeee That's bad news Eric :( A clean up, and new fuel usually does the trick. Did you check the fuel injector? Obviously, check all cable connections. Other than that, it could be anything. Good luck! :)

[@alexgallardo9306]

Michael Caine is a hell of a technician

[@EngineTuning]

Hahaha yeah; but I was only supposed to blow the bloody doors off!

[@patagualianmostly7437]

Mmmm..... Micheal Caine speaks with a London accent/Cockney accent....I rather think this chap is a Northerner.....Yorkshire area. Mmm?

[@theoldrectoryfarm]

Hi there ive a similar unit it's a 4.6kw parrafin heater giving me an E1 , I've followed your advise re the cleaning of carbon from the chamber , cleaned everything thoroughly, still I've an E1 , any help greatly appreciated, Bob

[@EngineTuning]

I can't help you, because it could be anything. The error codes are not always exact.

[@mikeflynn2538]

Hi . We have had our inverter 3018 serviced recently. Not happy we took it back and they said a pipe had a air lick. Solved brought it home still operating as it was when it went in. E4 code ,cutting out and reignites 3 or 4 times when lit. Can you please advise . I am going to use your video's to clean and service the unit myself. But wandered about the re ignition when already lit. Thank you Mike

[@EngineTuning]

Not bad Mike; but.... You didn't state whether 'this problem' was the reason for the service. I'm guessing that it was, because otherwise you would know that 'they' caused the fault. Re the problem ... this is entirely new to me. I've never heard of a heater re-igniting itself. Normally, when they fail, they fail safe - which means switching off. It seems that there is either something wrong with the board, or cables have been mis-connected to the board. I presume that you explained the failure to them. It would seem that they simply didn't attempt to fix it ... in which case, you have blown your money. The best approach would have been to ask them to fix the problem first, and if successful, to then service the heater. Best wishes...

[@mikeflynn2538]

@@EngineTuning Hi and thank you for your reply. We have the fire on now and it has run fault free for 2 to 3 hours now. Early in the evening as with other evenings when started it cuts out , when we re start it it clicks ignition 3 or 4 times when the pilot is lit. I guess it maybe a simple cleaning process and will attempt this shortly. Yes it went in for a service but we think this may have be a quick look and run yhe unit see how it goes. We lost our fire for 3 days over the coldest nights recently , when we collected it,the lad said we hold on to them in store for a few days to make sure they are running correctly and it also helps heat the shop. Cheeky buggers. But i will have a look and see if the combustion chamber, flame ro is clean and clear of any carbon or dirt. Thanks again

[@sydmarsh3478]

Earlier this year, you had another KZbin video showing in great detail how to dismantle evey screw etc., to access the flame monitor. Where is it now ? I have everything set to start but that very clear and detailed video is missing, what have you done with it ?

[@EngineTuning]

Hi Syd :) They are all still there. I edited a long video to simply show dismantling: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oJa8oGVrpNqEqtE Here is a longer video of the above - I shaved 3 minutes or so off it, and added comments and subtitles. kzbin.info/www/bejne/enmycpuPoMagarc Here is the playlist: kzbin.info/aero/PLeHV-kNBKNNfEtkx0cTb-mbtelhpNOPFa Good luck!

[@danielandres9709]

Hello. Very good your videos. I have a doubt, I did maintenance on my stove and it lit fine, but after 3 uses the problem E 03 returned, and it happens because the ignition (the spark) does not go out after the stove flame has already lit. What can be happening? (Sorry for the English, I'm from Chile. Greetings!)

[@EngineTuning]

Hi Daniel :) This channel has lots of friends from Chile. What I can say is: I do not know why the sparker system keeps sparking. I presume that you can hear a clicking sound continually? Normally, the sparker functions when the fuel well has heated to the correct temperature, and fuel has been injected. Due to the heat, the fuel forms a gas, and the sparker switches on (for a couple of seconds) in order to ignite the gas (you can hear the clicking, as the spark is generated). You are the first person to encounter this problem. I wish that I could explain the cause, but I don't know the cause :( Such is life! Best wishes... :)

[@patagualianmostly7437]

Hi Daniel... I am in Chile also..... Your English is fine...better than my Chilean-Spanish anyway! Greetings from Patagual (Near Coronel)

[@LePaysagistedeNormandie]

I'm getting an E09 code, I've cleaned the filters but still the same, could it be anything else? Thanks Ross

[@EngineTuning]

Generally speaking; by cleaning the heater as described, the faults disappear. However, you can first drain the fixed reservoir, and try fresh fuel with say a 0.5% acetone mix. If that works, then you can add your old fuel in small quantities at each refill. :)

[@caskwith]

Looking forward to going through your videos, they look very detailed and informative. As an aside, you wouldn't know where I could find a manual for an Inverter 5003?

[@EngineTuning]

Thanks for the comment caskwith, but sadly no. I'm afraid that we must figure them out as best we can. I've done my best to help, and yes... I've uploaded some other vids that might help you in this area. Anyway, good luck with your endeavours :)

[@REBIGMAN]

This is great!. One question. Do you know about "HHH" messenge on display?. What is it?

[@EngineTuning]

I don't have any documentation for HHH :(

[@anndimarco7402]

All very well but what is a Ed error code on a Ruby SRE 302?

[@EngineTuning]

I have no idea :(

[@anndimarco7402]

Don't worry - it's to do with an excess of CO2 - basically use a vacuum on the grates at the back as they may be obstructed by dirt

[@EngineTuning]

@@anndimarco7402 Nice!

[@edwardtaaffe1]

Do you service these heaters. I have a Zibro LC30 and it wont light after sitting over winter. Thanks Ed

[@EngineTuning]

Yes, you need to service these heaters. Try removing all the fuel, and then replace with fresh ;)

[@nikitagogolev948]

Greetings from Russia! Please give me some advice! My heater sometimes turns off after 15 minutes of operation, the screen says "EH". Please tell me what this fault code might mean. I use the heater INVERTER 6003! I will be grateful for your advice and response! Thank you for your videos - they helped me a lot!

[@EngineTuning]

Hi Nikita :) I don't know what the problem might be :( What I know is that most problems arise from low grade fuel, water in the fuel, or a dirty flame rod. Electrical contacts can become loose, or become corroded. Components can fail. In these situations, the first task must be to remove all old fuel from the portable reservoir, and the fixed reservoir. Replace with fresh, high grade fuel. If possible, you should add 1% acetone to the fuel mix. If this doesn't work, then dismantle, and clean the flame rod, and check all connections. Otherwise, a component may have failed, and that requires some electrical test knowledge. Good luck ;)

[@nikitagogolev948]

Engine Tuning Very sorry. The heater is almost new - no more than 10 start cycles. I will try to replace the fuel, but we do not sell liquid for heaters, the store only has aviation kerosene (airplane fuel), which we use as a solvent, cleaner, lamp liquid, and so on. As the saying goes: seven troubles-one answer! Perhaps this fuel gives autumn a hot flame. I don't know. I will observe how this will continue to happen. I will try to replace the fuel with another one, but apart from airplane kerosene, we have nothing in our stores 😂

[@EngineTuning]

@@nikitagogolev948 I hear you, and I understand you. I know that you hear me ... but do you understand me (at a fundamental level)? I have given you the correct information. It is a check list. So you are using aviation fuel AND the heater is new. Fine. That 'pure' fuel would not cause these problems so quickly. ... but is it pure? ... does it have water in it? ... are you aware that this is very common (perhaps normal). Water sinks to the bottom of the fuel. As you up-end the container, the water quickly slides to the new bottom ... and enters the fixed reservoir. At this point, you are in trouble (it's those damned laws of physics). Hey ... it might not be this, but it is not unusual. This is why people use funnels that contain a fine mesh water filter ;) Cleaning the reservoirs, carefully pouring new fuel, and using acetone; typically solves the problem. The acetone will mop up any remaining water, and will enable a hotter burn (it pays for itself). All this might fail, but you must assume that it will succeed :)

[@nikitagogolev948]

Engine Tuning Thanks! I will definitely try to do this 👌

[@nikitagogolev948]

Engine Tuning Thank you for your feedback, you were right - it's about fuel quality. Can I ask a question? I don't have instructions for this heater, but I've figured out all the functions. The only thing I can't understand is the purpose of the button labeled 5 SEC. Perhaps you can tell me its purpose?

[@sirio787]

hello sir, Is there a way to turn off the sound or lower it a bit. or even better remove from the heater ? thanks.

[@EngineTuning]

I have never noticed a 'sound'. Can you describe it?

[@sirio787]

@@EngineTuning i mean the bip sound of the buttons.

[@EngineTuning]

@@sirio787 I guess that you will have to live with it :(

[@sjoerdweigergangs6937]

Hi I had the E4 error. Followed your instruction and now it works without any errors. Unfortunately now the metal outside heats up, some parts hot enough to cook an egg on! Due to the metal heating up the temperature sensor thinks it's hotter than it actually is. What can I do to make sure the metal doesn't get this hot? I have disassembled and reassembled it 3 times now to check if I installed something wrong, but I can't find it. Any ideas?

[@EngineTuning]

I don't know. I don't even know if this is an actual problem. The standard position remains in force: 'if it is different, after your work, then it is your work that changed it (even if by hidden action)'. Good luck! :)

[@aslambekgushmazakaev7281]

Have E0 code pumping up. I did clean that rod, but no luck. Any ideas?

[@garrydunkley1000]

Thanks 🙏

[@karlcooper7849]

Hi very good video. I have a e9 error code. Any info on this would be amazing. Thanks

[@EngineTuning]

Potentially: Fuel Pump with small fuel flow rate. Clogged Fuel Pump Strainer. Flame Rod and/or Burner Ring whitened. Blower Motor with abnormal rotation. Clogged Air Filter. :)

[@kimweston9227]

I have a Tayosan SRE4600 and it’s showing code EA. Symptoms. Stays on for about 10 minutes and then turns off but it requires unplugging before it will end the controls illumination. Any ideas.

[@EngineTuning]

I don't know. Try searching for a manual ;) :)

[@CrimeanHorseArcher]

Hello friend, so helpful with all replies. I've a Tayosan heater and it gave different error codes. I cleaned up every component of it and refreshed the fuel. Now ignition and burning are good, but after start exactly 3 minutes later each time it says 'EC' and the ON button keeps flashing. I can't find any explanation on manuals for 'EC'. Maybe you can help. Subscribed by the way. Thanks in advance.

[@EngineTuning]

Hi Sinan :) Thanks for subscribing (I'll return that favour). I appreciate your well thought through description of the problem. ... though you forgot to mention whether the heater switches off, when the error code & flashing button occur :D (I'm guessing that the heater switches off) RE The button - perhaps it is a visual alert, to indicate an error condition? However, this should be mentioned in the User Manual. If you have experienced error codes before, without the flashing button... it is likely to be an electrical fault, or component failure. If this error condition has only occurred AFTER you serviced the heater... it is likely something that you did. Typically a loose wire/connector/sensor. You will need to follow each cable, and check. Good luck!

[@CrimeanHorseArcher]

@@EngineTuning thank you very much. Very kind of you. I will open up and check everything once more. Have a nice day!

[@steveo3002]

thanks for this , im looking to buy one can you suggest any uk sellers ? whats the best most reliable brand to get?

[@EngineTuning]

I can't advise you stevio ... I don't live in the UK. Either way, it is a case of 'let the buyer be aware' ;)

[@panosatsalos]

Hi nice video! Well I got 2 heaters and after the 2nd year of operation I got the E2 and E3 errors. Removed all fuel cleaned it and the vaporiser....still getting errors. Any idea what could be wrong? Does anyone know a place to buy parts? TIA

[@EngineTuning]

I don't know. Normally when you clean the flame rod, and use fresh fuel; everything should be fine. It could be water in the fuel - it can gather at the bottom of a 20 litre container (when purchased). Add 1% acetone to the fuel. Good luck!

[@didododi160]

Hello, I have error - - : - - In the manual says the tank is empty but it is full. Do you know what is the problem? I have an Oslo Eurostove Injection

[@EngineTuning]

I don't know ... is the fixed reservoir full? If so, it could be the fuel level sensor...

[@garythrelfall5506]

I have the same heater with an E2 fault.. what could that be???

[@aboahmedsukk7667]

Hello ,dear sir ,i have one praffin heater like this named Sanyo and i have a fault on the display ( EH) can you tell me what is this fault and how can i fix it pls. Thank you .

[@EngineTuning]

I do not have a listing for EH. In most cases, you can fix the problem by cleaning the heater, as described in the video.

[@EffectOneProductions]

Hello sir , may I have some advice about an E2 error code on my machine ? My device has been working flawlessly for almost 3 years then this started.

[@EngineTuning]

After 3 years it is likely due to be cleaned :)

[@mokotramp]

Hi mate, I'm about too pick up a 3k Laser inverter that has an E6 code. Do you think carrying out this procedure will fix it? Many thanks, Stuart

[@EngineTuning]

Hi Stuart. I don't know the internals of that model, but in my experience, the design has been established - it works, so it is prevalent in most if not all machines of this type. It certainly looks similar, but with a different dash layout and restyling. E6 is listed as an electrical fault. It could be anything. Quite possibly just a bad connection. You will switch it on and monitor the phases of start up; logging when exactly the fail occurs. This will indicate where to start looking for the fault. You can get back to me when you have that info. Don't forget to syphon out the old fuel from the fixed reservoir, and replace the tank fuel with the high quality C1 grade portable heater fuel (K1 I believe in N. America). In this way you will eliminate fuel from the list, and have the best chance of it working. If you have acetone, you can add 2% to the fuel. This is also beneficial. Be careful when adding fuel, to avoid the water that is often at the bottom of the fuel container ;) Good luck :)

[@mokotramp]

@@EngineTuning I have a heater similar myself, hopefully if I get it running it will be my backup, I've only paid 20 quid for it! I'm running mine on 28 second, works fantastically. Paraffin is simply too expensive too make these an economical form of heating! I read that E6 code for this is a burner problem, so I'm hoping a strip down and clean will rectify it? I'll keep you posted, mate. Thanks for your advice, found the video really helpful! 😉

[@EngineTuning]

Remember ... when you have a faulty heater, you should always clear as many variables as is possible. These stoves are designed to run on a high grade of fuel. They will run on kerosene, but are prone to clog up and cause errors. Each season the heater will need stripping, and the flame rod cleaned. The flame rod governs the fuel feed. When carbon builds on the flame rod, the wrong info is sent, causing incorrect metering, ultimately leading to the failure that we are all conversant with. Restarting with C1 Paraffin and a drop of acetone, will cause 'clean hot burn' and this may be sufficient to burn off the carbon deposits. Thereafter, if you can't source cheap C1 paraffin; always add a drop of acetone in the refill, to raise the burn temperature. 50ml to 5 Lt is a 1% mix. It pays for itself, as the heater hits your chosen temperature while burning less fuel. C1 paraffin does the same. C1 paraffin plus acetone is the best. Around 20% less fuel is burned, so the initial extra cost of the C1 may be recovered. Plus you probably won't need to clean the flame rod each year. Plus the fumes are not toxic - or at least toxicity is within standard norms that we can presumably cope with. 28 second kerosene is 'home heating oil' for vented flues. Ie. it's toxic, but the fumes are meant to be vented. For a full explanation and comparison of toxicity view kzbin.info/www/bejne/moPQo3iFd9h4etk

[@mokotramp]

So I can add 50ml of acetone to 28 sec kerosene on every fill up? I've stripped the heater down, fuel nozzle was blocked and there was a lot of what looked like oxidised stuff from water ingress in the burner? I vacuumed everything out, the E6 code has cleared but I now have an e9 code? On start up the flame sounds and looks quite weak, colour of the flame is yellow and blue? It will run for around 2 minutes then shuts down? Seems like a fueling issue?

[@EngineTuning]

This is why you need to ensure that all the old fuel is out of the system, and the highest grade used for the restart. The nozzle was blocked, so there could be other issues in the fuel line. It is all probably caused by the previous fuel, perhaps over a season, until failure. Make sure the flame rod, and gassifier are clean. Clean the fuel line. That will probably do it. Yeah, use acetone on each refill - especially if using kerosene, as it doesn't burn well.

[@ninoculum8315]

I have zibro camin lasser lcb330-1 When start preheat, electric heater work for a few,no sparkling and then show e0. I'm checked all and I think it's probably problem with thermistor which is under place of fire. I suppose its termistor cause when I try to check resistance no any data no meter by temp, it's always in brake. Also when unplug thermistor and start kerosine heater immediately show me er0. What to do? I don't have schematic,and no any data on thermistor. Don't know is it NTC or PTC? Any info or advice would be great.Thanks!

[@EngineTuning]

Hi Nino :) If you have checked all connections, and tested components (as best you can)... There are times when you will need an electrical technician. OR You buy replacement parts (trial & error). Best wishes :)

[@ninoculum8315]

@@EngineTuning Yes sure, I need to replace thermistor but don't know which one to buy? Thanks for answer!

[@EngineTuning]

@@ninoculum8315 Look on the motherboard - the connectors are often named - sufficiently to indicate its purpose. I honestly can't advise, because electrical issues could be due to one of a number of components. The good news is that these components are cheap ... if you can find a root source. That's the key to this type of trial and error repair. You might have to buy another heater of the same type, and then swap components. ... When you find the component that gets your broken heater to work, you can source that component, and sell the second heater. This would be a good strategy. Think about it ;) :)

[@robinson2651]

Hi I have a LC-30 Type C I had it two years and it has behaved perfectly well. However I have noticed now at 21C the burner is burning blue ok. As the temperature is increased a yellow flame is noticeable from RHS which continues to be present until the thermostat is increased to 27/28 when it burns blue again. There are no faults indicated but I am concerned the flame will produce carbon and eventually cause a blockage in the heat exchanger and perhaps CO2 Have you seen this occur ?

[@EngineTuning]

0 - 21C = Blue 21 - 27C = Yellow 28C > = Blue Yellow = Rich (High fuel or Low air) I can see no reason for the mix to be correct, then go wrong, and then return to correct. If it just flipped from good to bad, you might look for an air filter blockage. If air flow was limited, the flame would stay yellow. It looks like a fuel map error, but they are not 'that' complex :D I don't know what might cause this. If you find out, then report back. Good luck!

[@robinson2651]

Thanks for the prompt reply. It’s odd because from what I can see it’s not the entire burner that burns yellow it’s just this yellow flame that burns across the burner almost like a pilot light.

[@EngineTuning]

@@robinson2651 service the heater as described ;)

[@robinson2651]

This is now proving to be intermittent. I’m going to chat to the supplier tomorrow (Leroy Merlin) it’s guaranteed 4 years so it’s worth a shot. Thanks fir your help

[@EngineTuning]

@@robinson2651 Good move. This is a warranty issue ;)

[@salamancea]

hi there, I have a zibro Lc 30 and it started to make some noises( like a wheel that moves hard) and after we clean all, and seing if the fan was good, the pump oil, electricity, everything, the noise its the same, a hight flame anf the error 2 appears... we tried everything but...the problem is, that where we stay, we cant find anyone to repair, maybe you can give us a clue, thank you very much!

[@EngineTuning]

Hi Gheorghe I'll help if I can. The noise problem is new. Nobody has raised that issue before. I would remove the cover, and try to identify exactly where the noise is coming from. Assuming that you have done that.... In these situations, you must buy some high quality fuel, supplied in a sealed container. It should show an 'indoor heater' on the cover of the container. It is more expensive, but it will burn hotter and cleaner ... so it will last longer. E2 error indicates a fuel problem (it may be contaminated with water). Clean out all the old fuel from the tank, and the low reservoir. Replace with the new fuel. I have given this advice before, and people have reported that it solved their problems. Also note ... by using new, good quality fuel, you eliminate 'bad fuel' from the list. If it works, you might be able to add small quantities of the bad fuel, into each fresh tank. In that way, nothing is wasted. Good luck. Report back here. :)

[@andrewgretton7021]

Hi After going through the video error code gone and all working well but now the right hand side get really hot any ideas Thanks Andrew

[@EngineTuning]

I suppose it could be possible that the flue gasket didn't mate well. Try starting it with the front grill off, and feel with your hand for where the hot air is being directed.

[@summerabumughli3911]

What is E-11 with arrows flashing on the screen?

[@EngineTuning]

I don't know Summer :(

[@chrisstephens5320]

I get CO2 error without it actually igniting, is there a fix

[@EngineTuning]

Hi Chris... here's one I made earlier :D kzbin.info/www/bejne/mpuremlvoa6WrtE Don't forget to subscribe - the new YT rules hit on the 20th :( If I've helped, then you can help me, simply by clicking the subscribe button. (do the same for all the smaller specialist help channels)

[@Jeff-hf8tq]

Hello! My Tayosan petrole poele keeps clicking every 30 seconds for about 2-3 minutes while heating up. Then clicks off completely. I've cleaned the filter but no luck. Any suggestions? Thank you!

[@EngineTuning]

It is probably expansion movement, as all the components heat up.

[@patjmsn3]

Hi ET ! Hope you can help.. We bought an Inverter 5086 UK that has the E0 error from brand new.. It won't ignite. and has never run. We have been refunded and left with it ! We want to try to get it going as our last was great and ran for 12 years. Any ideas gratefully received :-) Cheers Mary

[@EngineTuning]

Hi Mary :) It sounds like a big win to me; either for spares, or to get it running. E0 has traditionally indicated bad fuel, but new models may have different software. Check the user manual for the code explanations. If so... If you used old fuel, say remnants from last year, it could be worth completely emptying the fuel (including the fixed reservoir) and replacing it with fresh high grade paraffin (not heating oil). If no joy, then log all the steps of start-up. You need to know how close it gets to starting. eg. does the combustion chamber heat up, prior to the clicking of the igniter. Obviously, check all the wiring connections. Good luck!

[@patjmsn3]

@@EngineTuning The manual says fuel or air filter.. Can't be filter because we tried with it removed.. It is new oil .. It goes through all the stages..lots of clicks then cuts out.. the top of the heater gets warm so assume combustion changer is working.. Comparing it to our old one it seems to be the final ooomph that is missing..

[@EngineTuning]

@@patjmsn3 The rapid clicking at the end of the warm up, is the sparker ignition system. That means that the oil pump is probably not striking up ie. it is not pumping oil into the combustion chamber. The oil should squirt into the pre-heated well and vapourise to a gas ... the sparks then igniting the gas. To confirm this, you need to strip the heater as shown in the vid, to see if oil is getting to the heated well. If not, there are probably 3 main possibilities: 1. The oil lines from the internal tank, through the pump, and to the injector (and the injector itself ... there could be a blockage. 2. The pump is faulty. 3. The pump is not receiving power. You can run it stripped, to feel if the pump is working, say, with a finger on the copper pipe. If it is, then there is a blockage. If it isn't, then check if it is receiving current. If it is, then the pump is faulty. It's easy to get at ... you anyway must remove it to check for blockages inside the tank on the suction side of the pump. Obviously, follow the wires up from the pump, to confirm connections are good. You can do this :)

[@patjmsn3]

@@EngineTuning Job jobbed ... Pump wasn't attached !!!! :-D Thanks for your help.. We owe you one !

[@EngineTuning]

@@patjmsn3 Hahaha ... Big win :D Really pleased to have helped. Subscribing and thumbs up, always helps ;)

[@nrw34260]

Hi, I followed this procedure and still get E0 on start up. You can hear the clicking of the starter but gives up and gets the error. It will eventually fire but takes about 5 or 6 tries.

[@EngineTuning]

Either the fuel is not injected, or the combustion well is not heating, or you are using last years low quality fuel. Adding 1% acetone will help the burn :)

[@nrw34260]

@@EngineTuning thank you. The fuel is over a year old. Will get some fresh tomorrow.

[@EngineTuning]

@@nrw34260 Good move! If you have a lot of old fuel, you can add it in small quantities to the new fuel. Over the season, it will all get used. Don't forget to add 1% acetone each time you refill the reservoir. The cost is insignificant, and greater heat output is achieved - so it is a financial win. Plus, the burn is cleaner, reducing the need to strip the stove for cleaning the flame rod.

[@nrw34260]

@@EngineTuning Drained old fuel. Bought the expensive fuel €45 for 20 litres. Added 1% Acetone and it started straight up. Brilliant, thanks.

[@EngineTuning]

@@nrw34260 Great news! My guess is that the €45 fuel is de-aromatised. I'm seeing the correct grade fuel (but not de-aromatised) at €21 for 20 litres. That will be perfectly fine for the next purchase, because with the acetone, the burn will be better, so there will be no noticeable odours at all. However, you made the right move, in order to know that 'this was the fault'. Re the start-up burn... Because the combustion is not up to temp, you will see a puff of smoke on first ignition. What I do, is to have a bin bag handy. When the sparker switches on, I place the bin bag opening, over the grill. The smoke blows in the bag. I then close it, and eject it outside. ... and that's it until the next start. It ensures that there are no lingering odours from the start-up ;)

[@alucardxs77]

Thanks for this video. Mine is not working anymore : white smoke at the beginning and no flamme ... I followed your tuto but it's still not functionning ... any idea ? Where does the smoke come from ? Both rods are cleaned but still that E0 error and such smoke ... but no flamme appearing ... I checked too, oil is coming into the well. Merci pour cette vidéo. Mon chauffage Inverter 3001 ne fonctionne hélas plus : grosse fumée blanche au démarrage et aucune flamme ... j'ai suivi votre tuto mais rien n'y fait, une idée ? La fumée doit venir du fuel qui se chauffe en gaz pourtant non ? J'ai tout nettoyé et toujours cette erreur E0 ... beaucoup de fumée au démarrage et le bruit d'un piézo puis il s'éteint et aucune flamme. J'ai tout nettoyé ... et j'ai vérifié, j'ai bien du fuel dans la chambre de préchauffage.

[@EngineTuning]

Is it clicking (sparking)? It looks like the combustion chamber is getting hot (as required). The fuel oil is injected into the heated chamber, and turns to a gas (probably the white smoke). At this moment, you should hear a clicking sound - the spark rod (like a spark plug in an engine). No spark... no fire :)

[@alucardxs77]

@@EngineTuning I can hear the clicking (can't see it) for sure but no fire. It keeps clicking with white smoke then switch off. up : There is a sparkle, I checked. But the fire is not coming. I cleaned the flame rod but no flame, maybe the pump ?

[@EngineTuning]

@@alucardxs77 I don't know. It looks like you have fuel, gas, and a spark - normally that does the job. You need to start it, while it is dismantled to the combustion chamber. This way, you can see what is happening. Check that the chamber gets hot before the fuel is injected, and that there is a spark.

[@alucardxs77]

@@EngineTuning There is very few fuel inside the combustion chamber each time I dismantle it, maybe the pump does not inject enough fuel ? I dismantled it and switching it on and I can see the sparkle. There is white smoke probably the fuel becoming gaz and the chamber becoming hot but it does not start, maybe there is not enough fuel in the chamber. I might dismantle the pump to check.

[@EngineTuning]

@@alucardxs77 Good luck with that :)

[@tecnicoelectromecanico5580]

Excelent

[@bnarahwra2074]

Hello i bought the same heater but when i turned off it smells the very very bad 😔 what is its problem ? please help me

[@EngineTuning]

They tend to stink most when starting. To catch the first puff of smoke, I hold a plastic bag (bin liner) over the grill, and then empty the bag outside. Switching off, can cause some fumes, but typically less than the startup (in my experience). If your new heater smells very very bad, it could be assembly grease etc.

[@rifra973]

hello , I put wrong liquid inside and after 2 minutes shut off and appare error E2 and I also saw that now it doesn't switch on . now I remove all the wrong liquide and tomorrow I will buy a new and good liquide , but do you think will be enough to put the good liquide to restart or there should be something broken ? because now the heater is not making the flame anymore ... thanks for help

[@EngineTuning]

Remember the golden rule: *Provide sufficient information* Whatever problem that you experience - it can only be solved when the problem is fully understood. Typically, the questions are the same for any technical or machine failure. 1) Was the machine working correctly each day, for the previous month? 2) Was there a slow drop in performance, prior to total failure? If all was working correctly... 3) Did the machine stop working, after changing the fuel? 4) What was the different fuel? 5) have you removed all of the bad fuel from the system? 6) Have you bought the highest grade replacement fuel - this will help clean the bad fuel. What do you mean "it doesn't switch on"??? Normally you connect the power, and switch ON. a) Signs of electrical activity b) Digital display provides feedback c) The combustion chamber is heated d) At correct temperature, the oil is pumped into the combustion chamber e) The sparker sparks f) The oil ignites g) The flame is blue h) The heater continues to work

[@rifra973]

Many thanks for your fast answer . I'm sorry if I haven't be clear in my message but I'm italian and is not easy to explain the problem in english .. I try to explain better :unfortunately I put wrong fuel in the heater I think kerosene instead of the correct liquid . when I switched on first time the heater it start to work correctly but after few minutes it switched off .. I tried to switch it on again for 3/4 times but each time it made the spark but was not able to make fire and it switched off ... after 4 times it stop also to make spark ... when it stop appare error E 2only at the end I realise that put wrong fuel so I remove all liquid in the tank and also inside the heater trying to clean it as much as I can in order to remove all wrong liquid .tomorrow I would like to buy correct liquid but I fear that also will not work because probably I have damaged something inside because now the heater beside not working it is not able to make spark anymore ,I hope to clarify my problem .Of course the heater was working good before making this mistake and I have it since 6 years and I never had problems with itSo I ask you if you think that only putting correct liquid tomorrow it will start again to work or if probably there is something damaged because of not makeng the spark thanks

[@EngineTuning]

That's fine Francesco :) I had realised that English was not your mother tongue. The key was 'the information'. ---------------- The heater was always working correctly. The wrong fuel was installed. The heater started, and ignited the fuel. It burned for some minutes, and then stopped. 4 attempts were made, at starting the heater - sparks were produced each time, but no ignition. After 4 attempts, the sparking stopped and E2 was displayed. (Every effort was made, to remove the bad fuel from the system) ---------------- Nice problem Francesco :D I bet, that you wish: you had not kept trying to start the heater ;) Obviously, the question is: why did it stop sparking? However, it is a lesson to channel followers (BTW have you subscribed yet?) If it doesn't start... something is wrong. Hey!... the warning signs were there ;) If you are honest... when the heater 'cut out' the first time... surely you knew something was wrong AND suspected that the problem was the fuel - hahaha Francesco; come clean, and tell us :) It would be normal to attempt to start the heater again, but after that.. pointless :( -------------- E2 indicates water in the fuel, or reduced combustion. The fuel burn was bad - so a sooty flame - more yellow, creating carbon deposits (like a fouled spark plug). This sounds possible. However... to restart; buy the highest grade heating oil - kzbin.info/www/bejne/moPQo3iFd9h4etk This is the best idea, because you give the heater the ideal fuel to restart. (and it will dissolve the bad fuel) Place the heater perfectly level. Disconnect the electricity - Re-connect the electricity. Attempt to start the heater 3 times. If no joy ... you must dismantle the heater, and clean the combustion chamber, flame rod, and sparker. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jHSQZmlrbK9_nrc Good luck!

[@rifra973]

hello . I solved problem :)today I bought correct fuel , remove all the bad fuel from the tank and from the heater , of course were not possible to remove 100% of bad fuel because some of it was surely inside pipes and will be not possible to remove them without dismantling the heater . so I put about 0,3 lt of good fuel directly in the bottom fo the heater and I have shaker the heater in order to try to fill all internal parts with good fuel . after I have put fuel in tank and try to switch on the heater .., at beginning it hadn't work , the spark didn't appare and it comes bad smoke from heater ,,, but I try other 3 times and .. fortunately at third attempt it start correctly making the spark and working properly , I left the heater working for about 20 minutes and after I switched off . i try again to switch on and it work good immediately .. so i think i have solved my problem .many thanks for your help and suggestions

[@EngineTuning]

Great news Francesco :)

[@wshazbot62]

We had a power outage, so started generator. Turned my laser 530 heater back on, yet I had to turn generator off to refuel. Now heater is showing E 1 code ? The fuel is new, the heater is new. Never happened before, help ? So I’m guessing the generator isn’t powerful enough to run it ?

[@EngineTuning]

Sorry ... i wasn't notified of your comment. Did you get it fixed?

[@wshazbot62]

No, it still won’t work with generator power

[@EngineTuning]

By that, do you mean that it works with mains supply, but not the generator?

[@wshazbot62]

Yes, it works fine on regular power. I think there’s not enough power with the generator to make the heater work, just odd how couple times it did work on generator power.

[@EngineTuning]

Clearly, this is the case. However we can ask ourselves why? There might be a heavy draw of current, when the heater element first starts (when very cold). This to heat the fuel well. Perhaps if you are using a long, small gauge, extension cable ... there might be sufficient voltage drop to result in an error. I find this surprising, but this would seem to be the only explanation, assuming that everything is well with the jenny and it's cable connections. I would advise that you check all the wiring connections at the generator end, and try a different extension cable. Also, make sure that no other appliances are connected, until the heater has been started.

[@loqvka33]

Whats the Ed error mean? I cant find any answer....

[@EngineTuning]

That could be a mis-interpretation of an error code.

[@Fubuki___]

I have an error code saying HH. Please help

[@EngineTuning]

Oh my goodness Keith... that's a new one :D Listen mate... if I had any advice on that, I would provide it. The best bet will be to strip the heater, and clean up the areas as described. Honestly... this is where most of the error codes come from. Forget the idea that the codes are an exact science... they aren't. Good luck... and don't forget to subscribe ;) The new KZbin rules are going to hit smaller help channels like mine. They are demanding 1,000 subscribers per year. Subscribing is a zero cost option, and takes milliseconds to implement. Consider doing this for anyone on KZbin that gives up their time to help people ;)

[@valterc7076]

ciao sapresti aiutarmi??' possiedo una TOSAI sre3001 e mi compare sul display l'errore EF che non trovo su nessun manuale ne su internet. Tu lo conosci??? ciao Valter, iscritto😪 GRazie saluti from Italy

[@EngineTuning]

Greetings :) Clean the heater as I have shown you. Remove all the old fuel, and replace with fresh fuel. If you can ... add 0.5% acetone to the fresh fuel. This fixes 99% of all heater problems :)

[@valterc7076]

@EngineTuning proverò sicuramente grazie mille👍👍👍

[@valterc7076]

Ehi engine ....ho eseguito la pulizia della stufa come mostrato nei tuoi video....vorrei inviarti delle foto della stufa per avere chiarimenti..... Hai una mail....?????

[@EngineTuning]

Some error codes are only listed in the workshop manual. This is to stimulate business for the workshop. Sadly, I cannot help you :(

[@EngineTuning]

@@valterc7076 I can't get too involved. I help when I can. If you take time, and analyse what you see, then you will be fine. :)

[@zaiddajaha73]

Hello,,, What about E6 error code? And the temperature sensor under the coil,IST generate voltage according to the heat ?

[@EngineTuning]

E5, E6, E7 appear to be 'electrical component' errors. The temperature sensor is an interesting one. I have not experimented with it. I am aware that the smoke created at first start, might be eliminated (or reduced) if the 'combustion chamber' was allowed to get hotter before initial fuel injection. To be honest, I can live with capturing the puff of smoke (in a bag), when I first start the heater. When I have some spare time (?????) I might experiment with it. Do you have an E6 error? ... and if so... have you discovered the cause of the problem?

[@zaiddajaha73]

Engine Tuning As I expected that the sensor acts as a variable resistor.I made the experiment a little while ago.

[@EngineTuning]

Nice! Did you need to make any modifications?

[@zaiddajaha73]

Engine Tuning Of course not, because the sensor works in stages itself.

[@zaiddajaha73]

Must be replaced.

[@slayer123ification]

I have a zibro heater and it gets error code e11 after about half an hour use, supposedly not enough ventilation, but there definitely is, I use it in a cabin and it's freezing temps, without the heater working it's like ice in the room lol

[@EngineTuning]

If I was to guess; I'd go with the lack of ventilation. The reason is because the heater functions fine for around half an hour. Invariably, cutout problems occur during first ten minutes.

[@slayer123ification]

@@EngineTuning I'm not sure because I've turned it on while it's at the door with the door open, and still gets no ventilation, maybe a vent is blocked but not sure haven't tried to open it up

[@EngineTuning]

@@slayer123ification That was a necessary test ... nice! The air intake filter is typically a round plastic mesh ... easily removed and blown through. Hopefully it is clogged with dust :D If not, I assume that it was working fine last year - yes? Have you restarted the heater with fresh fuel (pumping out the old fuel from the fixed reservoir)? Are you using kerosene, or paraffin designed for flueless heating? If kerosene, you may need to clean the flame rod. Add acetone at 1% for a cleaner burn ;)

[@slayer123ification]

@@EngineTuning thanks a lot!, I'll have a look at it more tomorrow, I'll give that a go, I'm using paraffin fuel for it, it's gone over double in price since last year from 23 for 20lrs to 55 for 20lr now! Insane but gotta make do with it, just wish I could get it to run properly, it's always had an issue with that error code, it's second hand so I'm guessing that's why the other person was getting rid of it, but gonna try my best to sort it out since it's in the minuses ° now , maybe it's too cold for the heater now lol

[@EngineTuning]

@@slayer123ification Temperature should be fine because the vapourisation chamber must first reach temp, in order for the fuel to be injected, and the sparker to start clicking. The info re it being 2nd hand and having always suffered this problem, is critical information. It should be the first thing that you mention, as it governs everything. I'd strip it as shown, and clean the flame rod etc. Also check that the fuel filter is not blocked (see video). Add 1% acetone, every fuel change.

[@lukenewman8305]

What is e8 fault

[@EngineTuning]

Different manufacturers may use different codes. However, the only E8 code that I have seen is: E-8 = Blower Motor malfunction. Possible cause - Hall IC, or the motor itself Output voltage to be approx. DC 2.5 V in operation. Please report back to confirm or deny this to be correct for your heater, and state the heater name and model number. :)

[@laithalnwaiseh7106]

Iget E4 error what can I do

[@EngineTuning]

Watch the video, and then carry out the task that is described. It's easy enough to do, and it will solve your problem ;)

[@zeproo]

Thank you soo much sir

[@EngineTuning]

Your very welcome - thanks for the comment :) Have you considered subscribing? The new YT subscriber rules come into effect this month, and it will hit small help channels like mine badly. I would consider subscribing to any channel that helps you, which has less than 1500 subscribers ;)

[@lavanachary]

Hi sir, I am getting 'hhh' error. What to do... could you please help me

[@EngineTuning]

Hi Lavin The hhh error is not known to me, therefore I assume that it is using a newer version of software. I would do all the usual things - drain the fuel from both tanks, to a separate container. Clean the flame rod. Refill with new fuel, that has stood for a while, to let the water settle at the bottom. Make sure that you do not siphon the new fuel from the bottom (where the water will be). Buy some acetone, and mix it at 1% to the fuel. Ensure that the heater is on a level surface, and try starting it. If it fails to start; repeat the starting procedure around six times consecutively. For the overwhelming majority of problems, this procedure will service your heater, and enable it to work throughout the cold season. Good luck :)

[@lavanachary]

@@EngineTuning ok. Thank you sir

[@tonymcgold1861]

Hi I keep getting error Ed please can you help ?

[@EngineTuning]

At this stage Tony, I think that it would be a good idea if you went back over your error report and description. Talk a bit more about the fuel you are using. ... the type, and history of the heater, leading up to the failure, never fails to assist in the diagnosis. Talk about the error, and when it occurs ... listing the error code could be useful (I don't recognise Ed as an error code). Outline what, if anything, you have done to attempt to rectify the fault. Type all that out first, and when you are happy, then post it on this thread :)

[@nadiarivassomosa4651]

Ya y ahora qué dices en español?

[@EngineTuning]

Haga clic en el icono de configuración - elija la traducción automática - y luego elija el español. Hacé clic en el ícono de subtítulos. El guión del vídeo está en inglés. Este es el mejor idioma para la traducción a otros idiomas. El español es un idioma principal, por lo que la traducción debería estar bien. Deja un comentario, si no lo es - sin embargo, he hecho lo mejor para ti :)

[@cristianfabianhidalgovidal5871]

Hola el código de error E7

[@EngineTuning]

This may be overheating (of the heater)

[@ismailbaniyaseen3371]

Hello error e4 in Mitsubishi kerosene heater

[@EngineTuning]

It could be water, or dirty fuel. Or you may need to clean the flame rod (as outlined in the video). You can buy a water filter funnel - they have a very fine filter, that prevents water from passing, but allows fuel to pass. Otherwise, be careful when using the last drop of fuel, because the water will be at the bottom of your fuel container. You will need to suck out the fuel from the fixed fuel reservoir - use the plastic syphon pump ... and put fresh fuel in the portable reservoir. ... then later, add the old fuel, bit by bit, when refueling the heater. Anyway ... you may need to clean the flame rod. Good luck with your repair :)

[@ismailbaniyaseen3371]

Thank you

[@ismailbaniyaseen3371]

Can you add video about this error in Mitsubishi heater

[@ismailbaniyaseen3371]

E4

[@EngineTuning]

They are likely to be very similar ... perhaps exactly the same internally.

[@guillermoserrano4169]

Me sale E 4 prende pero se apaga

[@EngineTuning]

It's easy to fix ... just follow the video ;) Report back, when you have got the heater working again :)

[@nadiarivassomosa4651]

No sale la opción español ,solo ingles

[@EngineTuning]

J'ai testé les sous-titres en espagnol. Vous devez faire quelque chose de mal ;)

[@mjamalzahimajed5861]

Adjust pomp petrul cruna

[@EngineTuning]

Thank you for your comment. I am having difficulty in translating its meaning. I guess that it involves 'fuel pump adjustment' Fuel adjustment is calculated from the 'flame rod'. Cleaning the flame rod, is normally sufficient to solve fuel pumping problems. I hope that helps :)

[@mjamalzahimajed5861]

Montage is blend

[@EngineTuning]

Thank you for your comment. I am having difficulty in translating its meaning.

[@tzpinball]

Man, am i the only one who gets annoyed by the endless swallowing of this guy?

[@EngineTuning]

Hey ... at least that makes you unique :)

[@sentimuh]

E03

[@saulagueroinsulsa780]

No entiendo nada en español

[@sydmarsh3478]

Earlier this year, you had another KZbin video showing in great detail how to dismantle every screw etc., to access the flame monitor. Where is it now ? I have everything set to start but that very clear and detailed video is missing, what have you done with it ?

[@sydmarsh3478]

Earlier this year, you had another KZbin video showing in great detail how to dismantle every screw etc., to access the flame monitor. Where is it now ? I have everything set to start but that very clear and detailed video is missing, what have you done with it ?