Poolology Aiming Method for Pool

[@BladeRunner-td8be]

This guy has impressed me because he explains things so well. I wish the Internet had been around when I started playing. Even though I was very good I would have been a much better player. Since I am just now getting back into playing again and it's been a couple of decades I appreciate these videos and I'm probably going to buy some of the instructional videos this guy puts out.

[@Poolology101]

Thanks for the compliments!

[@cakins1986]

This method is ridiculously effective, especially if you are already pretty good at aiming and can make the necessary adjustments when a shot is somewhere between the 3/4 hit, 1/2 hit, and 1/4 hit (and those are fairly rare). I just started using it and was already a fairly strong shotmaker, but this increased my accuracy on many shots that previously gave me a little trouble. What's most surprising about it is the number of balls that absolutely split the pockets with this aiming method. No rattle, not favoring one side of the pocket, no rail contact. Just a pure, clean make. That makes playing position easier and more reliable because, unless intentionally cheating the pocket, we plan the cue ball's movement based on perfectly clean pots.

[@Poolology101]

cakins1986 ....thanks. Once you work with a little, it becomes simple to fine tune when needed.

[@samsiciliano9881]

I'm not able to practice much as I have to drive 45 minutes to get to a table. Sticking to the Zone B shots(from the book), it started to come around after about 15 minutes. I tried to focus on the 1/2 ball shot and when I felt comfortable with the aim point for that shot, I based the other shots(3/4, 1/4, etc) on that aim point. Seemed to work well after that one 2 hour practice. I think I'm going to love it! Thanks again Brian.

[@Poolology101]

Thank you. Don't hesitate to send questions (or complaints) my way. [e-mail]

[@Tupsx57]

Got the e-book from Amazon. Man, I wish this system existed when I was heavily playing pool two decades ago. I really had a hard time pocketing the ball as my aiming was really bad. I eventually lost interest in the game and my pool table ended up gathering dust - eventually getting sold. I just picked up the game again. Thanks for writing the book and sharing your knowledge.

[@Poolology101]

Thanks! Welcome back to the game! I hope the book helps you out.

[@Tupsx57]

@@Poolology101 It is already helping me out. I got the Zone A shot calculations down and my pocketing has already improved. I need to pull out my phone and open the book from time to time to refresh my memory. This is a great system. I always believe that HAMB is the only way as there are so may variables to learn but this starts you off on the right path.

[@Poolology101]

@@Tupsx57 I learned the old school hamb way. But I wanted to come up with a better method that would help upcoming players develop a good eye for pocketing balls without having to go through the guesswork and trial and error that comes with hamb or ghostball or contact points or traditional fractional aiming. I'm glad Poolology is helping players all over the world with their aiming skills!

[@rick2rad4]

Been playing this Poolology system for about six mouths and have improved my game dramatically and wouldn't change anything. Like anything worth doing, it takes practice. Great book and system

[@juanball5480]

Agree,, I'm using my shaft also as a gauge, but we we have a different approach in identitifying the degree but almost close this system is very effective and very easy, I created my own system last 3 years ago and I'm happy to see his video that we are almost using the same system, good luck to your game and enjoy

[@andriaslie1839]

I ve been playing pool for 1 year, still cannot imagine an evil ball in front of the target ball. I use fraction aiming system.. and found your system . I bought your ebook two days ago, yesterday i practice using it. The result is your aiming system make me able to pocket a ball in every angle easily ( even in long shot ). Determine the angle in precise number. Superb addition for those using a fraction aiming for their basic aiming system.. thx brian for sharing ur knowledge. I Cannot wait to beat my senior friend using this system..

[@Poolology101]

andrias lie, thank you for purchasing the book!

[@andriaslie1839]

Hello again brian.. after 3 days practicing all the zone.. i have to shot 1/8 thinner in 90% of my shot to make the ball... And if the ball on the line between two zone.. mostly i use zone A type rather then B or C to make the ball.. am i doing right? Is it accordingly to ur book?..

[@Poolology101]

andrias lie..... I'm not sure why you have to aim 1/8 thinner for 90% of the shots. It could be a visual thing that relates to your dominant eye and how you see the aim. Or it could be a stroke issue, where you may not be hitting the cb exactly where you think you are hitting it. At a medium speed with an above center hit you not have to aim thinner in order to make the system work. However, if you accidentally strike the cb anymore than a couple of millimeters left or right off its vertical center line, the cb squirts off track and you'll end up hitting shots too thick or too thin. You can check your cue ball striking accuracy like this: if the cb has a dot or circle or logo, chalk your cue and set the cb so you are looking straight at the logo/circle/dot and then strike the ball dead on that spot. Then pick the ball up and look for the chalk mark to see how accurately you hit the spot.

[@andriaslie1839]

Yeah.. that factor might be the isue.. i will try ur advice brian.. thx for the reply..

[@stephenmarian7097]

Thank you Brian, that helps. Practiced the half ball and a quarter ball shot on a 9ft table spaced out the balls about 5feet and was nailing them so thank you very much!

[@qianyueldonwong4191]

M

[@bobully8721]

Got your spiral book from Lulu. I'm going thru it now. I agree with you keep it simple. I've been using a different way to fractional ball aim. If A is object ball, and C is cue call, and the AB line is the object ball line to the pocket, extended back towards the cue ball. Then I make a triangle ABC. If BC is 1/2 of AC, then I have a 1/2 ball shot, if 1/4 then a 3/4 ball hit, etc.. This works good up to 30 degrees. The visual is simple. Beyond 30 degress, you have to make adjustments, also if the shot is long, you have to adjust.

[@planetscore]

I think I am gonna give it a try. I am a mathematician by trade but have never used maths for my game. I feel most shots not even imagining a ghost ball. However, sometimes my brain freezes and now and then I totally miss a ball my several inches. I think knowing this system as a backup could be helpful in resetting your brain and be more confident in your stroke.

[@Poolology101]

Excellent! Don't hesitate to ask any questions about the Poolology book. And thanks!

[@planetscore]

@@Poolology101 I tried to purchase the ebook, searched for over an hour, but couldn't find it anywhere. I am in Europe (Spain).

[@Poolology101]

@@planetscore Lulu.com is international: www.lulu.com/shop/brian-crist/poolology-mastering-the-art-of-aiming/ebook/product-1mk2d74n.html?q=

[@planetscore]

@@Poolology101 ok. Funny Lulu and Amazon didn't show this as an ebook when "googling" before, but this direct link works now. Thanks. I actualy have already found your book through a free trial with another provider, but have now purchased this book again properly through your link.

[@planetscore]

@@Poolology101 I have a question. Let's say I am in Zone B. OB is at position value of 10 or 11 and one diamond away from the pocket on the long rail. Basically it is very close to the seam line between Zone B and A. CB is parallel to the short rail aiming through the OB at 10 (or 11) alignment value on the long rail. This would give a fraction of 10/10 or 11/11. However, the pot is very makeable, as the OB is around 45 degrees from the aim line suggesting a near quarter ball hit. I've pottet this one with around a 6/8 fraction.

[@hokechew]

0:51 So you use ghost ball to determine the fraction? Sorry I'm a beginner.

[@Poolology101]

@@hokechew you can use ghostball to help determine a fractional aim line, but this video is showing the Poolology aiming method out of the Poolology book.

[@Poolology101]

@@hokechew here is good way to use ghostball to help with fractional aiming. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y3mcZ3uBoKaGf6csi=8RgC4MvLiAyqkoMl

[@slapbassforthewin]

Where can i order the book?

[@Poolology101]

@@slapbassforthewin best price is probably at www.playpoolbetter.com

[@stephenmarian7097]

Brian I’m thinking about buying your book or the Kindle I don’t even know what the Kindle is?I want a system where you can hook it up to your tablet and then take the tablet to the pool hall and watch what you’re trying to teach us. when it comes to being smart technology wise I’m dumb, so if I buy something to set up on my tablet I want something that works not complicated where you got to spend money on another system to make it work. the table version of your book sounds like it would be better for me. What do you think? Thankyou

[@Poolology101]

A lot of people like the digital version (ebook) because they can have the book easily accessible on their phone or tablet. The paperback copy isn't as convenient.

[@capoman1]

Ghost ball is such a more direct method. We can all imagine the ghost ball. And with this you need to correctly "visualize" 1/4 ball hits for instance and make adjustments. So it's like doing all this extra math when the direct answer is already available in ghost ball... I don't mean to knock your method, and I appreciate all systems and your efforts. I just can't see adding all this extra thought to something that has a direct answer in ghost ball.

[@Poolology101]

So the player doesn't have to correctly visualize an imaginary ghostball? Take any novice to below average player and setup a few halfball shots. Tell them to imagine the ghostball and pocket the ball. See how well they do on 20 different halfball shots around the table. Now do the same thing with 20 more halfball shots, and instead of telling them to aim for an imaginary ghostball, instruct them to aim through the vertical centerline of the cb (a little above center) to split their tip on the edge of the object ball. See how many they pocket then. I've done this experiment with several players. Ghostball loses every time.

[@capoman1]

@@Poolology101 If its for beginners, that's a good and perhaps the only reason I could advocate this. Because half ball has an exact point, the edge of the ball. But nearly every system has way more than just ball edges, they have pivots, they have points A B and C which you have to "correctly visualize," and pivots, which you have errors to account for. Once english is involved, I think these systems hamper more than help. And if you are going to learn to get better at anything, I'd say getting better at visualizing ghost ball is better since it is a skill you will need anyways and it also is what you use to line up combo shots. Again not knocking you or the exercise and many things for entertainment and academics. I just don't see why someone would go out of their way to ignore ghost ball. My analogy is like trying to teach multiplication to someone that can't count or recognize numbers.

[@Poolology101]

@@capoman1 excellent points. I agree 100% that incorporating pivots and multiple subjective visuals is not ideal for learning, not at all. What I am teaching is 7 basic aiming references using the width of the ob, along with the center and edges of the shaft/tip to help fine-tune when needed. It's a great way to develop a good eye for cut shots without having to suffer through countless weeks of guessing where the center of the ghostball needs to be before your mind begins to recognize the shots. Aiming ends up being about what you see over and over and over, combined with the accumulative results you get from doing it over and over and over. Less guesswork equals a shorter road to development. All the Poolology system does is reduce guesswork. And there isn't any complicated math involved. It's more of a visual system to help speed up skill development. Like training wheels on a bike, eventually the system is no longer needed. Off course, learning how to ride a bike is much easier than learning how to play pool. Still, any tool that can make it easier and quicker to train the mind and body is a good thing.

[@JP-vj8tt]

great video. ..I was wondering if this aiming technique can apply to snooker??

[@Poolology101]

Thank you! Unfortunately, the system was designed around a 4.5 inch pocket using 2.25" balls. It would work on a snooker table but there would be more areas where the system breaks down and the numbers would a little off. So it would surely not be as accurate for snooker as it is for pool. But fractional aiming is very common among some of the greatest snooker players. Good luck!

[@juanball5480]

I think it will work as long as the cue ball and the object ball have the same diameter,

[@davidparker781]

The challenge is in identifying the angle. There are an infinite number of contact point angles in the pool shot. Knowing where to hit the object ball for 4 of them as a starting point may be helpful for the beginner but it’s not a complete solution. Practice remains the best solution.

[@Poolology101]

The Poolology system identifies the fractional aim by using the diamonds and the ob position on the table. It eliminates the traditional fractional guesswork because the player doesn't have to estimate or guess the shot angle. Poolology uses 8th fractions as known references and really helps the player narrow down or fine tune the aiming of about any shot up to as thin as a 1/8 hit (60°), which covers the vast majority of shots we happen to face.

[@stevebragg522]

​@@Poolology101j

[@oldmangoesdie8812]

The alignment value, is it stick to the line of diamond or laying on the edge of bank @Poolology? Because the alignment value change between 2 line position. When object ball in range of 2 diamond from pocket, it varies much.

[@Poolology101]

Diamond locations are used, not edge of cushion.

[@436jrob]

I just downloaded the epub for this. It makes sense to me a little at the moment, but I already see how this can improve my game.

[@Poolology101]

436jrob Thanks for downloading the book! It was written with the intent to improve a player's game. Use it like a tool on shots where you might lack confidence. I didn't learn this way.....came up with it a few years ago. But if I'm out playing, and not hitting the pockets well, I'll use this method on every shot for about 15 minutes and suddenly I'm back in stroke, pocketing shots without thinking about any aim points. Thanks for good words!

[@436jrob]

My goal in the end is to do this "without thinking". To automatically recognize and calculate the aim points, and make the shot. I'm studying Zone A now...

[@stephenmarian7097]

Brian, my question is about the 3/4 aim point, it’s about the only one I’m having a little trouble with I keep changing my location on the object ball. The 3/8, 5/8, and 1/2 are a piece of cake where I am guessing at is the 3/4 location, I keep moving it around and missing a lot of them. Let’s say you are cutting the ball to the right, do you look at the 5/8 line on the ball and move to the right, but how much do YOU move to the right? Is it a 1/2 tip or a full tip or in between? I keep guessing and I fail a lot.

[@Poolology101]

For a 3/4 shot you have to aim exactly halfway between straight on and a halfball aim. I wouldn't reference the 5/8 aim line. I would look straight through the cb to the middle of the ob, then I'd look straight through the cb to the edge of the ob. Halfway between these two aim lines is where the 3/4 aim line is. It takes some practice to accurately locate this aim line because there is no definite reference aim to use other that knowing it's halfway between straight in and a halfball aim. You could also look at it as being between a 7/8 aim and a 5/8 aim.

[@stevemarion9591]

I buying the ebook Sunday, on one of your other videos you were saying when the balls are let’s say 1 foot apart what normally would be a half ball hit, now you have to aim thinner maybe a 3/8 hit, is that guessing or what? I think your pool shooting is Fantastic

[@Poolology101]

No guesswork. When using fractional ball aiming, greater distance between the cb and ob shifts the cut shot slightly. This shift is less than 2° and the system handles it quite well. A 1/2 ball shot with 5ft between the balls is only about 1° different than if the cb were 2ft away from the ob. But as the distance between cb and ob gets smaller, the shift becomes more extreme. With about 10" between the cb and ob, cuts hit around 7° thicker than if the cb were 15" from the ob. And when the distance is 6" cuts come off a good 15° shifted. The fix is to aim thinner when closer. The book explains it better plus tells you how much thinner to aim when needed.

[@bobsnooker.3950]

How so you know if it is a half ball or a quarter ball is this a guess or a judgement made from experience ?

[@Poolology101]

Bob Snooker, I know if it's a 1/2 or 1/4, or whatever because the book (Poolology) contains a system that shows you how to easily determine the correct fractional aim point to use for any shot. The book can be downloaded (E-book) for less than $10. Printed copies run about twice that much, depending where you buy. The best place to purchase it is at www.lulu.com. Search "Poolology". Thanks, Brian Crist

[@bobsnooker.3950]

Thanks for the prompt reply will have a look as you suggest.

[@Poolology101]

Bob Snooker ....you are very welcome. Basically the book simplifies fractional ball aiming by eliminating the guesswork. It requires a little math, but simple math, like splitting a 2-digit number in half twice. Shipping may be high if you're outside of the US, so the E-book download would be your best option if the book sounds like something you could use. Have a good day, and thanks for checking it out.

[@juanball5480]

Get the exact degree of the half ball hit maybe around 28 to 30 degree. From this formula you can easily get the degrree of quarter ball. Then make a four kinds of cut from 1/4 to 3/4. Then practice and memorize the angle. So need to buy a book =)

[@stephenmarian7097]

I would like to learn how to read the diamonds on the table when making cut shots. I know the 1/4, 1/2, and3/4 positions on the object ball but I want to know how to read the table. I am very lazy and have a tablet what do I need your ebook or what? I like your chalk method of aiming that’s pretty neat. Or do I need the book?

[@Poolology101]

The book contains the system that allows you to figure out the aim point. The chalk method works great, but it's based on the position value of the ob on the table. It's all in the book, which is less $10 in ebook format. Some websites may be selling it for less. Amazon usually has the best deals. There is another way to "read" the table for fractional aiming, but I haven't finished it yet. I will make a video within the next couple of weeks.

[@stephenmarian7097]

What do you mean when you said the line center to center. You said it at about 3:14. Do you use the diamonds on the pool table to figure out the degrees? If so how do you do that? Thank you

[@Poolology101]

Yes, the diamonds are used to figure out the fractional aim needed for the shot. Through geometry, particularly the "Inscribed Angle Theorem", I was able to map the table. There are two values used to determine the aim point. Object balls are assigned position values based on where they are, then you use the center to center line to see where the ball would hit the rail if shot atraight on. The ratio between these two values provides a fractional aim. I wrote a book (Poolology -- Mastering the Art of Aiming) to illustrate the process. I published the book two years with hopes that it could help offset costs of alternative cancer treatments for my wife. I am greatful that it began to sell quite well, because it works. It's on Amazon, Lulu, Barnes and Noble, Books-a-Million, etc... in paperback or downloadable ebook.

[@samskee415]

Got your book. I’m got confused with the zones. Any help here?

[@Poolology101]

Just looking at the diagrams can seem confusing, but the examples and explanations should help you to understand it. What exactly is confusing you?

[@JohnS-il1dr]

Do you visualize two lines when aiming fractional?

[@Poolology101]

Nope, except for thin cuts. For thin cuts I sometimes also look where the cb edge is lined in reference to the ob.

[@apexbilliardselgeniopooltv9144]

i guess i will either need to get this book or understand where these zones on the table are that you are refering to how do i find the zones

[@stevemarion9591]

What are you doing when you put your stick on the diamonds and then saying that’s a quarter ball hit. What does your cue stick tell you when you place the stick on the top of the table lining up with the diamonds

[@Poolology101]

Each ball has a position value on the table as outlined in my book, "Poolology - Mastering the Art of Aiming". What I'm pointing to with my cue is where the ball will hit the rail if I shoot straight at it, a full ball hit. The diamonds have values also. If the object ball is positioned at a value of 32, for example, and my the straight on line leads to a diamond value of 16, it's a halfball shot (16 is half of 32). If the diamond value is 8, then it's a 3/4 shot, etc.... Most of my videos are intended as support for those who've purchased the book, which is only $10 or less from Amazon or Lulu for the ebook download. The printed copy ranges from $15 to $20 depending on sale prices. I think it's 15% off on lulu now.

[@FIVE-0-APOCALYPTO]

i agree with everything you say but are you offering anything in your book about alignment and stick angle and perception to make this all work? Thanks.

[@Poolology101]

paul couto ....the first edition did not contain any info on the stick offset angles. I have been adding more and more info to the book since then and have done two revisions so far. The 3rd (and hopefully final) revision will be available on May 29. It contains the info you are asking about. I will try to find time to upload a video showing this offset angle and how it affects the shot.

[@FIVE-0-APOCALYPTO]

Thanks and I think if you are selling this method, then you need to find the time and upload showing this offset as you say and I will throw in my 2cents from there because I believe and know there is more to it than that, but I'll wait to see what you demonstrate and I will explain my side if your demo is lacking or partially lacking. I saw your other video on stun and back cuts. You are addressing very good things that will help the casual player who simply wants to play better, but not go off the deep end of commitment that this game requires if someone wants to be pro. For the casual player, to be decent in execution and end result, these basic physic phenomenons must be known and you do a decent job of pointing out what must be known, that is not clearly evident to the novice eye.

[@stevemarion9591]

I was going to ask you about bhe and fhe do you use both, or just bhe

[@Lp3393jp]

I got a doubt, if i hit 3/4 or 5/8 i will make the ball? Even if just for one line changed? Or 1/4 and 3/8

[@Poolology101]

When the ob is close to the pocket (within 24 inches, or a couple of diamonds) then yes, the nearest 1/8 aim will work. If 3/4 is not cutting it enough then a 5/8 will do the job. However, as the ob gets farther away from the pocket the margin of error becomes smaller. This means there will be shots where the player might have to aim dead between a 3/4 and a 5/8, or maybe just a little thinner or thicker than a 5/8.

[@stephenmarian7097]

Brian can you rewrite your answer again on how you line up a 3/4 ball aim. Your answer for some reason got erased and I don’t know how!

[@Poolology101]

I don't know how it got erased either, but I sure can't find it!!?? Anyway, the 3/4 ball aim is a bit tricky because you have no defined reference point to aim at. You just have to use your best spatial skills and visualize aiming halfway between a full hit (aiming straight on) and a halfball hit (aiming at the edge of the ob). The 3/4 aim point is exactly 0.56 inches (14.2mm) from the left or right edge of the ob. With a 14mm shaft, aiming one tip thicker than a halfball will work. With a 13mm shaft, aiming one tip in from halfball would cause a slight overcut, so you would have to aim a touch thicker (just 1mm). With practice, good spatial skills can be developed. Visually dividing the ob into quarter or eighth portions is a skill that must be developed in order to make fractional aiming easy. It just takes practice. But when you can visualize a quarter of the ob diameter (about 14mm), and can also visualize an eighth (about 7mm), you'll have no trouble with nailing any aim point. Aiming a touch thinner or thicker than the nearest 1/8 aim point will also be no problem because your developed spatial skills will be fine tuned.

[@planetscore]

I am late to the game and this comment is years old, but if anyone reads this, here is interesting advice I read on a comment on Dr Dave repositories somewhere and copied it to my notes as a reference guide. It is a supporting visual aid for nailig these 8ths and uses angles (or clock positions) on the OB as a reference for where to aim (instead of using distances). Here is my copied note: "Another related tidbit, maybe a more personal crutch, but still one I wish I’d seen somewhere before it occurred to me, is using clock face points on the outside upper quadrant of the OB as fractional-ball aiming targets. Assuming cutting to the left (shooting to the right of the OB), with 3:00 being the half-ball hit, aiming at 1:00 (30º from top) is exactly a 3/4 ball hit, and easier for me aim at than visualizing the half radius inside the ball. Similarly, 12:30 (15º) is close to 7/8, 1:30 (45º) close to 5/8, and 2:00 not far from 7/16 for what it’s worth. For thinner than 1/2 ball hits, I visualize an imaginary tangent ball next to the OB (which is easy as it’s right next to a real ball) and aim at clock points on its inside upper quadrant. Its 9:00 being the half-ball hit, 11:00 is exactly the 1/4 ball, 11:30 is close to 1/8, 10:30 (45º) is about 3/8, and 10:00 isn’t far from 9/16." So in other words, you visualize a clock on th OB and align the top of the CB with the hour stated. For example, for a 1/4 ball hit it's 1pm. For hits greater than 1/2, you visually copy/duplicate the OB and aim at the clock position there. This helps me as I can't visualize a ghostball, having a 3D eye deficiency from birth. (I am not the worst shot maker, but my entire world is plain 2D). I use the fractional aim system to just double check some angles when in doubt.

[@capoman1]

0:55 Love how GHOST BALL is referenced to "how/why this works." So LEARN GHOST BALL and you don't have to worry about a system that "simulates ghost ball..." And in any case, no matter what "system" you choose you are going to have to learn to adjust and estimate. Ghost ball is THE SIMPLEST METHOD, only one rule to learn.

[@Poolology101]

There is nothing wrong with ghostball, other than the fact that it's 100% visual guesswork. Countless players, myself included, learned with ghostball. But knowing what I know now, I wish I had started fractional aiming in the beginning, because it is the quickest way to train the brain for aiming cut shots. Aiming the cb directly at a particular portion of the ball, or a set distance from the edge of the ball, provides much more solid visuals than imagining an invisible ghostball. Poolology takes most of the guesswork out of traditional fractional aiming. It provides a nice shortcut to developing good visual skills, and thousands around the world are finding that out for themselves. Anyhow, even after using ghostball long enough, the end result is that players finally begin to recognize cb-ob overlaps or relationships needed to pocket the balls. That's how the mind and vision work together - the big picture based on what is actually visible. In my opinion, ghostball is okay. But it provides a longer road to reaching that point, the point of automatically recognizing where the cb needs to be (in relation to the ob) to pocket the ball.

[@capoman1]

@@Poolology101 If someone were struggling with ghost ball I could understand. But when you add deflection, throw, cuing with english, it is no longer a simple pocketing exercise. So you can't avoid some complexity, including the complexity of "imagining a ball." And if you line up a combo, you'll be using ghost ball so have to know it.

[@Poolology101]

@@capoman1 solid aiming skills involves using all the tools you have. Like I said, there is nothing wrong with ghostball. But in the end I don't believe ghostball users (myself included) are actually using an imaginary ghostball. We are simply using trained/developed spatial skills.

[@capoman1]

@@Poolology101 I agree there. I use ghost ball but have built in memory of cut induced throw, what bottom english and speed will contribute, etc, so yes it is more than just ghost ball, but the ghost ball is the measuring tool that determines the rest. I just think I'd have a hard time explaining to someone all these intricacies if I had to add an aiming system and CIT and SIT and cheating the pocket and using english.... With ghost ball there is one reference. And if we are discussing simplicity, that is simple, one rule one measurement tool. I've introduced ghost ball to experienced players and it has added to their knowledge, never taken away. And they were impressed/surprised at how simple that one rule is and they've made it their system. They thank me often when we talk. But again, I don't wish to insult your work or passion, I am impressed by it. I just like to share my thoughts and experiences, not cut anyone down. If I'm watching a video like yours, you know I'm a student not a critic in the first place.

[@Poolology101]

@@capoman1 I understand completely. To each their own. We should use the tools that work best for us, regardless of whether or not something else works better for someone else.

[@BladeRunner-td8be]

Interesting aiming method. I'll give it a try. But accurately seeing those small areas on the object ball especially from a distance could be difficult.

[@DeeEll86442]

I'm sorry but how you explained it is NOT simple. It's only simple FOR YOU because YOU know what you're trying to say. Not everyone learns the same way. I have been playing pool for over 40 years and I have bought every video and book there is only pool/billiards and everyone says they have an easy way to teach you pool. The thing is these people are NOT teachers, they are usually professional pool players that have been playing most of their lives. They may know how to shoot these shots but they don't know how to teach other people that may all learn differently. They need to think about the fact that many people that buy these books/videos are not pros and might even be new to the game. No offense to anyone, but you have to teach them like they are the dumbest person in the world and new to the game. So when you refer to different balls, angles, and such you should use terms that are familiar to most people. Believe it or not many people don't know what a cue ball is, or and object ball is. I tell them the cue ball is the white ball that you use to shoot at other balls. The object ball it the ball you are trying to hit into the pocket using the cue ball. I know it sounds like kindergarten but sometimes that's what's needed. Plus when you're explaining a shot visuals are always helpful in getting your point across. I'm sorry but I think there a lot of good info in this video if it was just explained differently.

[@Poolology101]

I agree 100%. I've been playing over 35 years and have purchased every book also. That's why I wrote my book, "Poolology -- Mastering the Art Aiming", because most books fall short of really helping players learn to pocket balls more consistently. It is not intended to teach a beginner how to play pool. It was written to help mediocre/average pool players get better. Most all of my videos are examples of what the book contains, and they were made by requests from players that have the book.

[@marcsegal6497]

Pros like Bustamante, Reyes, Ralk Souquet and Orcollo use center to edge and 90/90. I'm not aware of any who use this fractional aiming. Just do a search on KZbin for 90/90 aiming system. That's what you want to learn first. It allows you to run racks using only 3 shots! It's WAY easier than this fractional aiming!

[@joeygonzo]

@@marcsegal6497 dude, just stop with that bullshit

[@Lp3393jp]

I came with the conclusion that you are using cte.center to the edge and edge to wherever quarter

[@Poolology101]

No. I am using fractional ball aiming, looking straight through center cb to a specific aim point on or near the ob. CTE is not fractional aiming.

[@Smirnoff44]

Yup K. I. S. S - keep it simple stupid is a constant reminder I use a lot, I was always imaging these complex ways to play a rack in my head until I started watching the pros they know it as well as the rest of us they keep it simple all the time unless it's really called for brilliant advice for any over thinkers out there

[@stephenmarian7097]

I am reading the kindle, don’t understand it but at least I’m reading it. Stay tune for questions down the road.

[@Poolology101]

Lol. Ok.

[@apexbilliardselgeniopooltv9144]

how does he really find the position value of the object ball ball in relation to what is he comparing it to what is he point at with the cue

[@Poolology101]

ApexBilliards Elgeñio POOL TV ......I am comparing the object ball to certain table positions as outlined in my book, Poolology. You can find it on Amazon or at www.pocketingballs.com.

[@apexbilliardselgeniopooltv9144]

i was practicing it today and ihave and understanding but still dont know what table position you are pointing at are u pointing at the diamonds or what

[@Poolology101]

ApexBilliards Elgeñio POOL TV ...... yes, the diamonds provide values and can be found in my book. It can be downloaded for $9.99 here: www.lulu.com/spotlight/Poolology You can read more about it here: www.pocketingballs.com

[@apexbilliardselgeniopooltv9144]

thanks much i will be getting that book tommrrow iand i figured that what was happening but i was sure i am from a caribbean country so thats my challenge i will get a friend to purchase it for me

[@manglinongjames]

What if the angle is between halfball and a quarter ball?

[@Poolology101]

Then you aim for the 3/8 aim point, or a little thinner or thicker than 3/8 using your shaft/tip as a guage. The 3/8 aim is about half a tip (7mm) thinner than a 1/2 ball aim. Or the aim point could be a quarter tip or eighth tip thinner or thicker than 3/8. The system works best with 13mm shafts.

[@madmarvdesigns]

Seems pretty similar to ghost ball with fractional Aiming I'll try it I'm going to do controlled experiments to see which Aiming system works best

[@Poolology101]

Excellent! Keeps us informed of your results.

[@stephenmarian7097]

My first sign of confusion is page 36. I’ll start at 36 tomorrow!

[@allgood6760]

Cool👍

[@apexbilliardselgeniopooltv9144]

to say its a HALF ball i have the idea but just wanna be sure

[@williamsheppard8738]

The problem with it is that you are target shooting you have to look at a certain point and focus on it with the way I am I don't have to do that I just have to dial in

[@Poolology101]

William Sheppard ....The system is designed to help a player develop the ability to just see the shots, or to just "dial" them in as you say. When I play, I just step up and shoot the ball in without really focusing on any certain aim point, playing by feel/instinct, but that's not something that can be taught. It's something that's developed over time, and the system in my book, Poolology, is geared toward helping a player develop this feel in a fraction of the time it would take using any other aiming method.

[@williamsheppard8738]

Poolology see when you get to that point you don't shoot anymore your subconscious shoots for you but yes I understand what you're talking about but however when you get to a table that has 3 and 7 quarter inch pockets then even that way you have to have the edge and a system that works is really the only way to play because even if you're making the shot on that type of pocket you still miss and that's when players get discouraged and try to change what they've been doing that has been working for years when you get to those types of pockets it's a whole different animal well when you have a system that can allow you to dial in even on those tight pockets then you have a huge advantage what I'm saying is when you don't have to target shoot to make your ball because there will be that time to even you get up to a shot and you have to Target shoot unless you have a system

[@Poolology101]

....this system works great. It teaches a player to fine tune their shots, to get a feel for pocketing balls. As a player that has always player system-free, I find myself using this system every now and then on shots that I don't quite see automatically. It's an excellent tool for any player looking to improve their shot making skills.

[@williamsheppard8738]

Poolology I know it is because I used it for many years but I always knew but there was a better way and I found it I would go to tournaments Place wheel in the tournament but never when and I understand why now because I was so focused on making the ball everything else was just too much for me to handle in the end so by the time I got down to the final 3 I would be mentally exhausted I'm not dealing with that anymore but yes the fractional system is it good system for beginners I'm not saying that it is not however there is a better way for instance you can actually use the side of your shaft on your cue stick to aim as well if you want to target shoot and it works incredibly well especially when it is in between 0 to 30 degrees and Extreme Cuts it works very well but it's the in between that it falls short because I was using that system for a long time it's incredible on straight shots or almost straight shots as a matter of fact any shot that you can actually point the shaft of your stick directly at the ball it works well why I don't like the fractional system it's because it is very tough to know what fraction you need to use for that particular shot and you know as well as I do the contact point is never going to change on the object ball however the contact Point always changes on the cue ball but I digress

[@Poolology101]

.....you are very incorrect. You have never used Poolology because it didn't come out until this last February when I published it. You may have used traditional fractional aiming, which is guesswork. My system as described in the book, Poolology, is not fractional guesswork. The system allows you to know exactly which fraction to use -- no guesswork, no trial and error. And I am very familiar with edge of shaft aiming to contact point. It requires adjustments and different parts of the shaft to be used depending on distance between the balls. It works well from a couple of feet on shots thinner than about a 30° cut but thicker than a 15° cut. Basically, Poolology is the most accurate aiming system available for players that are sick of missing shots.

[@dannaas962]

Great !!!!

[@tylerstyer8202]

It seems like you don't even look at the pocket when you aim. Your decision is based on what zone the object ball is in and where the cue ball is? Correct? If this is correct are you interested in doing a blind pocket contest with Stan Shuffett?

[@Poolology101]

Tyler Styer ...I'm not interested in doing blind pocket shooting contest. Lol. I have a video where I do blind shots. It's here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4nZg6trjc2DeJI I unlisted it because I feel players should see the whole shot everytime in order to build a memory bank of various shots. Yes, you don't have to see the pocket to use Poolology, but that's not a productive method. It's sort of just trick shots.

[@johnpendleton2227]

LMAO!@@Poolology101

[@Stephenmarian-d5y]

Brian. Get ahold of me. Stephen

[@Poolology101]

@@Stephenmarian-d5y been super busy traveling with new job.

[@stephenmarian7097]

Brian bought your kindle and don’t know how to get it running. Write down and save 206 51825. The rest later

[@MIRAGEDEALER]

I don't doubt it works. What doesn't work is how he arrives at the aim point.

[@Poolology101]

It works exactly as described....I arrive at the aim point using the exact system as described in the book.

[@MIRAGEDEALER]

And I can make head or tails from the book, sorry.

[@Poolology101]

Some people find it too complicated, but most find it pretty simple to use.

[@Stephenmarian-d5y]

Upwhats

[@maryfithen5006]

Try and shoot tournaments this way ,you can’t do it

[@Poolology101]

It's a learning method, but can also be used under pressure in tournaments. Seriously, you have no idea what you're talking about. Happy new year!

[@maryfithen5006]

Nonsense

[@Poolology101]

Right.... tell that to the thousands who know better. Happy new year!

[@iainscott3736]

Not bad. Gets confusing when he talks about 3 zones of the table but does not explain what he means, Also, why does he and most others who post vids INSIST on banging the bloody ball down on the table. He should know better than most the damage it causes.😬

[@samskee415]

I just bought the ebook and the zones confused me.

[@joebradley1520]

What a joke.. Its to be told not sold.

[@Poolology101]

Fractional aiming has been taught for years. It has been "told" for years, but knowing exactly which fraction to use has always been based on experience. I developed a method of determining the fractional aim without the need of years of experience. I wrote and published a book, books cost money, lol, so it's not free. But a digital copy can be downloaded for less than $10, which is a steal compared to countless of pool books out there that won't do a damn thing to improve one's game.

[@wildcard2884]

Yawnnnnnn

[@bucksniper65]

You got a method better than this?

[@stephenmarian7097]

Brian, my question is about the 3/4 aim point, it’s about the only one I’m having a little trouble with I keep changing my location on the object ball. The 3/8, 5/8, and 1/2 are a piece of cake where I am guessing at is the 3/4 location, I keep moving it around and missing a lot of them. Let’s say you are cutting the ball to the right, do you look at the 5/8 line on the ball and move to the right, but how much do YOU move to the right? Is it a 1/2 tip or a full tip or in between? I keep guessing and I fail a lot.