Poor Man's Carpenter's Bench | 10 Wranglerstar

[@TheJessellewis]

I really enjoy Your Videos, I Like the way you Address peoples Comments in your videos and share what you learn and credit other viewers for their help, I plan on starting a project dining room table for my wife, I plan on using power tools because its all I have but After watching your Videos i'm encouraged to Take my time and be more precise, Thank You for taking the time to record your work and share it with others, God bless you and your family

[@jamierobb]

Nice to see you having so much fun building the bench you communicate well the joy you are taking in crafting it.

[@jelteghtc]

The chisel is one of my favourite tools. The simplicity is amazing. Greetings from holland :)

[@jelteghtc]

***** waddup jonkheer

[@user-8fna3m0ga]

Chisel is just a knife! Special knife to cut wood used in carpentry! And a knife is a very old tool.

[@mjallenuk]

Yet again I find myself relaxed and enjoying the simplicity in the work made effortless by knowledge passed on .. something we loose all to often! No ending though ... I've watched every video but I guess I miss the smiles it brings when I look on you previous work and enjoy the memory ... just a thought and not a criticism old chap...

[@caljim1950]

I'm always amazed by the number of "helpful" experts you have among your fan base. Good thing you're such a humble soul!

[@mercoid]

Expect it if you are going to put yourself out there. Goes w/ the territory. I see very few people taunting Cody. And if someone does, his fans tend to viciously jump down their throat. Even if it's a PERCEIVED slight. It's the only thing I dislike about this channel, but that's not Cody's fault.

[@craigl8922]

Your enjoyment of work is tangible. Those chisels are a fine set (esp the old slick!) A good joint yields so much satisfaction. (The puzzle-making boy smiles inside.) Gotta love that PoorMan'sRouter! I'd want a wedge to secure the depth.

[@jakedog1976]

Being a wood worked I enjoy watching you learn about my trade. I could make some sugestions but your an inteligent man and are going to figure out what works for you. In the end no mater what be proud of what you make its always about the journey not being the best. Keep watching Paul he is one of the best and down to earth wood workes out there. Keep up the good work..

[@RonShillings]

Hey now that router is fantastic. I really like it when simple designs replace expensive equipment.

[@play20boy]

Fantastic videos and tutorials.. Your videos teach us a lot in a realistic and detailed manner.. Great effort.

[@dieterbuchner1214]

First I want to apologize for my bad english, I'm German. I like your video's, they teach a lot about real handcrafting. What i want to tell to some guys here (198 dislikes). Can you do it better? Perhaps some of you are skillfull professional carpenters with a lot of money and plenty power tools, but i think, Wranglerstar is talking to selfmade DIY. Thank you Wranglerstar, thank you for your video's.

[@wranglerstar]

+Dieter Büchner Thank you Dieter.

[@The-Real-Blissful-Ignorance]

+Dieter Büchner Your written English skills are far superior to 75% of Americans under the age of 30.

[@putalaweaweonoh]

+Making This, Making That Oh wow, if that's true, I could be English teacher. BTW, I'm Chilean.

[@Joshua-jx4lt]

Das gleiche denke ich auch jedesmal! :)

[@blackcat-sv5rj]

The first saw is a tenon saw, part of the backed saw family, used for making most joints in work shops. Then I would class your pore mans router as a pore mans rebate plain. and not sure if you know but Stanley chisels are one of the best in the UK, and probably in the world there sertenly not poor, especially if there made with Sheffield steel and are around 30 to 100 years old. I don't see why you needed to chisel the rest of the tenon out as in the UK at least were trained to make the tenon only using a tenon saw. Then if the tenons going to be seen use a chisel going down with the grain not on the side against the grain like you have. to give it a nice and clean finish. please give this a try its alot more practical and athishent and i think we can both agree using one tool for the jobs alot better if you are poor

[@scttmtclf]

I just watched the Paul Sellers video, "The poor man's router" this morning. It's brilliant! Except when you use the poor man's router, you don't get that cloud of saw dust in your eye!

[@TheBushcraftBrothers]

I could watch these videos for days. So relaxing

[@Ticky66MN]

Awesome video series Cody! I look forward to these and as I begin to watch, the stresses of the day disappear for me. Thank you!

[@edadpops1709]

I admire your dedication to traditional woodworking, sticking to the homestead theme here. The poor mans router is thinking out side the box, love it

[@Matthew-mq6fz]

I'm looking forward to the end product but am enjoying each 'episode.' I built a Paul Sellers-style bench a few months ago and I highly recommend it to anyone wanting to get into woodworking. It's a sturdy, affordable bench and you will learn basic but important skills building it.

[@wheeliehunter6937]

I know this video is old but i wanna put it here for the people, you can also use your hand plane on this big tenons to get close to your line going across the tenon and it will make the work a lot easier for your router plane.

[@BeyondSoul1.]

I'm 20 and looking to get into carpentry. I'm going be watching your videos and getting all information I can because you did a great job and I know I'll benefit from it.

[@BeyondSoul1.]

I'm just looking for a good way to get some knowledge on the trade. I'm trying to find programs and stuff before I jump into school for it. Its a great trade and I'm hoping to gain some experience from the programs. I'm just looking for knowledge on it,that's all,ya know.

[@mdevidograndpacificlumbera1539]

where do you live? Personally i'm not one for school, I'm more of a hands on type of person and the reality is, for a trade like carpentry, you need the hands on experience. The practice and repetition are what you need to be competent. school is good for theory and ideas- i would suggest starting out at a custom window and door shop- thats how I started.... but avoid any place that uses cnc machines- you won't learn didly all day except how to stand and watch a machine do the work. When i was new there, I was stuck in the sanding department- rough and dirty work, eight hours a day just sanding. but i showed determination and got bumped up and eventually I became foreman! The two biggest pieces of advice I could give, are to be prepared to make mistakes- don't get too down on yourself once you do- and second, to just show an interest in what your doing-be excited to learn. If you have any questions I'll try to answer them. have a good day brother!

[@LSLearmont]

Hey Cody, One tip for make the experience of using a chisel even beter: When cutting through the material, don't jam it straight through. You want more of a circular motion to really cut the grain. Same goes for the poor man's router. Don't just force it straight through but again work in circles. Compare it to cutting a piece of beef. You don't just smack your knife on it from the top, do you? (I hope this is a bit clear. I'm not a native English speaker and don't know all the terms in English, but I'm learning to become a carpenter and this is how we're taught to use our chisels at school. If you don't understand, I can try and make a short instruction video.) Apart from that, I'm very much enjoying this series! Thinking of building a bench for my own as well, this Christmas holiday. Cheers from the Netherlands

[@IdahoDualSport]

Good stuff Cody, thank you for this series! After watching you over the last 1.5 years It seems that with a Chainsaw mill and some hand tools a guy could build just about anything!

[@luketdrifter2100]

Word on the street is Santa is bringing me a chainsaw mill this year. I've got a new saw all ready for it.

[@OldSneelock]

luketdrifter2100 Congratulations. Love to have one.

[@lancesurgeon7614]

Great to see young Master Jack reading and humming away in the background. He is very much like I was at that age. Reading is great.

[@stoveboltlvr3798]

Nice work, I like the poor man's router idea. You mentioned at 10:37 how a router would tip down and not extend to the end of the tenon but a sacrificial board of the same thickness could be butted up end grain to end grain and provide a plane for the router at the end of the tenon. Just an observation, still like to see old school talent!

[@jp91484]

*plane

[@SwimBikeRunFastest]

Love the sound of those sharp tools! Thanks for the video

[@wyattoneable]

That's a nice tip. I've recently visited Paul's channel and what a pleasure that was.

[@tomhindman]

I have so enjoyed your videos. I have learned along the way. Thanks

[@karsonbranham3900]

Wow Cody, this video series is heirloom quality, just like the bench will be! Very well done indeed! Thanks for taking the time to share with us, Merry Christmas to the WS family!

[@8BitLife69]

More! More! Great job as always Cody.

[@DohosanV]

I so look forward to your how I did it videos very informative and a joy to watch. Thank you for posting them.

[@Jeremiah1679]

Another Great Video Buddy! Thanks for all the hard work you put into sharing this experience. Take care and be safe.

[@fluffywhiteducky]

Its coming along great. When its done i think its time for an update on your new boots!

[@KevinCrawfordCTS]

Great job. I appreciate the videos. Get to learn something new each time.

[@Goldsmithexile1960]

when u scribe the layout for tenons, u should mark both lines from the same face edge of the board, for both the mortices and the tenons, with the same setting, using a mortice guage. Then the motrices and tennons will match up exactly. The way u did it, if the boards are slightly uneven thickness, your tenons will vary in thickness. Its much easier to use a proper mortice guage rather than a marking guage like u used. They are easy to make (3 simple pieces of hardwood and a wedge). Hardened masonry nails filed to a sharp taper make great scribe points.

[@gt0915]

Very nice work Cody.

[@justinmcmullen1436]

What can I say work of art cody!!nicely done

[@chipwright6193]

It's amazing what you can accomplish with basic hand tools. I really like that poor man's router. It does the job pretty well. Every time I see Cody's shiny new 3/4'' chisel it makes me want to go out and polish out my chisels like chrome.

[@MrRedbeard2010]

Thanks for your time Cody.

[@StoneysWorkshop]

very excited to see this bench!

[@Lb-bj6st]

Looking great. Inspiring me to want to make one for my workshop.

[@andreasmellber6672]

Very nice video! You are a good teatcher!!

[@goondocb]

Carpentry has been a passion of mines sense I could remember, I actually have been studying it in school for 5 years now and have many beautiful projects built. Also two houses and many more to come. I respect any and everyone that is a carpenter as a matter of fact anyone into a Trade.

[@goondocb]

I forget to mention that I'm 19 years of age aswell.

[@dellawrence4323]

Great videos, that saw is called a tenon saw, it is made to do those cuts, thats why it has that support at the top, so that the cuts it makes are straight.

[@deleetmeeh]

The tool Paul is referring to is the router plane. Which is a great tool for cleaning up dadoes and rabbit joints among other things. Those tools can be expensive but if your a traditional woodworker they become essential.

[@Mekazas]

Tight is right, My brain is so swollen with new knowledge...I must subscribe! Thank you!

[@cadman1736]

Cody looks like your bench is coming along nicely the was your using is called a gent saw and yes it was used by gentlemen of the 1700's for small task like cutting dove tail joints. Mite I also suggest that you invest in a good block plane low angle would be st but just a good Stanley with an adjustable blade will do it will work on small chamfers better and easier to use on end grain.

[@jamesknights3998]

i envy your lifestyle so much, ive always loved smithing, and working with timber, i have no time for such things in my life right now regretfully

[@ndamendmentshooter]

now there something you don't see now in this time of age a kid in the corner reading a book instead of being on there phones and computers I praise you man

[@goptools]

This is a very informative video series. I like the "poor man's router" tip. That's a good one! Thanks for sharing! -mike

[@dannyoleksiak7792]

Hey cody I notice when using a hand saw you engage the whole face of the work at once. Another method that I have had better results with is to start on a corner and saw to depth or just shy of it. Then the other corner then bring the two kegs together and down to depth. The key is to always be able to see the face the saw is entering and exiting at the same time. But if what works for you works better for you stick with it

[@vjsoeifi]

"you gotta build a jig and that stuff takes so much time" This message brought to you by the video that shows you the longest possible way to make a mortise and tenon joint.

[@dangreen7709]

Looking good. That fit looks really good up until the last inch or so. ! it is a little tight. You should not have to slam it home unless the wood is fairly wet and will shrink. Just a friction fit the you can assemble with your body weight. When chamfering the end grain, if you hold the plane (or chisel) at a 45 degree angle to the length of the board, you can shear off that chamfer full width without blowing out the grain.

[@dennybronwynbennett]

Paul Sellers is pretty awesome... I've used the poor mans router since I first heard Paul talk about it over a year ago. Works just fine.

[@strokerace5468]

Thanks for the tips and advice

[@harsimma]

awesome work bro

[@MOAB]

I always struggled with that too, Nice trick!!

[@gus1911]

Thank you Cody.

[@esalva1948]

Am I the only one that heard Jack singing in the background at 12;26. He is sitting in the shop reading a book and singing. How wonderful.

[@macplastering]

great vid man

[@greygoosemafia]

Paul sellers, Is great! I couldnt get goopd tenons lol. kept screwin up the chisel knockin off the majority of the wood lol

[@levipark-caesar5301]

when using a gauge scribe you can set both pins 3/4" apart and scribe from one side, that way if your timber thickness varies, you will still have a 3/4" tenon

[@夏亚莉]

Thank you for your video's, really like them. I learned a lot which is different with Chinese.(Sorry for my poor Englsih.)

[@wranglerstar]

+夏亚莉 Glad you like them.

[@floroantimonicacid9697]

Wranglerstar what book was your kid Reading

[@matthewblugerman1730]

Keep up the awesome work !!!

[@kevino2139]

Thanks Cody!

[@JorisKofman]

The reason for hitting the backside is: The sharp force from the hammer is transferred to the wood, which accelerates, but the mass of the chisel is still stationary, to accelerate this mass you have to transfer a force through friction between wood and chisel. If you hit hard enough the force that you try to transfer between the wood and the chisel surpasses the force that can be transferred in friction and the chisel slips in relation to the wood.

[@grebdnulyrag]

GREAT idea! I was guessing you used a wedge to hold the chisel in the 2 x 4.

[@stumpbumpers]

I use a plane on large tenons. Actually, I use tiny musical instrument planes for small tenons. However, I remove the bulk of the material first with a tenon saw. I agree that the tenon should fit snug and smooth, not tight. The fibrous surfaces of the tenon can cause a troublesome fit, but a plane and even a sanding block would really help. There is multiple ways to accomplish the same task, some are more efficient or "proper". We all learn and change as we grow.

[@bajabugblast]

One thing I have learned about cutting mortise and tennons is not to cut them to be too tight that there is no room for glue. It is good for them to be tight if you are making dry joints with wedges or dowels to lock them tight.

[@kevinbodiford7143]

im curious to know why you decided on using glue to secure the joints rather than pegs. wouldn't pegs be more secure and a bit more traditional?

[@paulallanidae]

I agree on the pegging. Apart from anything it's way more fun!

[@kevinbodiford7143]

paulallanidae well yea but he may very well have planned to do it and didn't mention it. i had only thought of that after you made a comment too. nothing wrong with also gluing it.

[@RonShillings]

Or widen the mortise exit, cut kerfs near the ends of the tenon, and drive glued wedges into the assembled joint.

[@kevinbodiford7143]

i remember him saying he wanted the ends to be proud and the wedges wouldn't look very good like that. although it does work very well.

[@RonShillings]

I remember him saying so as well but I think I was thinking he meant to cut them off and plane them flush. Lol, I guess I just assumed.

[@cnsteele11660]

So....out of curiosity....if you were to do more timber framing would you use this method for your mortise and tenon joints instead of drilling holes as you did before? This seems much more efficient from a layman's standpoint.

[@charlesparrish501]

Thanks for the video, This was some great information.

[@DocLarsen44]

Just curious if you thought using some 80-100 grit sandpaper would be a safer way to put the chamfers on tenants? Great video (the whole series thus far has been great!)

[@mercoid]

Seems to make sense that the less one is using an edged tool, the less risk you are exposing yourself to. Now Cody is going to call me a "Safety Sally".

[@OldSneelock]

Safer in what way? Easier to not split out the ends? Possibly but then planing or cutting with the chisel from the ends to the middle solves that. Not having an exposed edge on the tool? Not much more dangerous than a pocketknife. Just be sure the edge is pointed away from you while you are cutting. Safest way of all? Have someone else cut it so you can buy the bench from Lee Valley. But of course if that is where you are at then why do you need a bench?

[@DocLarsen44]

mercoid I really meant "safer" with regards to the tenant itself. I though that was self explanatory.

[@droveraf1]

You mentioned that you weren't sure about the saw for the job - can I say that you have a saw called a "tenon saw" which was designed to do exactly the job you chose to use it for! Rigid and fine toothed. Also it was made in Sheffield England, an area renowned for good quality steel.

[@wesgardner4322]

Gotta love the Dansko closeup!

[@jamout65]

Good job!

[@AllenJeter20]

Hey Cody you probably already know this by now since this video is older. But those cheap Sheffield England back saws are not sharp out of the box. In fact they border on dull. The steel is good though so if you run a saw file over them they are dandy saws for 20 bucks or so. Which makes them THE ideal saw for learning to use a saw file. I mean your not going to mess up an heirloom that way as you learn or a really expensive saw.

[@heritagejonery3879]

Hi, have you tried just planning your tenons? it work very well for flattening them off and much quicker than even the router plan, poor-mans or otherwise. also is there any reason you are using such a small chisel? It looks like a 3/4"? we would normally use at least a 1 1/4" and split bevel up. thanks

[@heritagejonery3879]

sorry just watched again, the 3\4 chisel is part of the poor-mans theme, my apologies!

[@AlphaChimpEnergy]

I watch your vids with my 16month old. He loved watching the poor mans router!

[@SuperKwame1]

That was a great tutorial on how to cut a good mortise.

[@ChickaWoofRanch]

excellent.

[@jl2540]

2:08 saw made in sheffield England, that my home !

[@Flyingroadkilz]

hahaa saaame brah. s6 life

[@Jacob_Williams1]

Cody the saw you use is a tenon saw :)

[@richardgaal9341]

Good old British craftsmanship!

[@mike1w1r]

"Watch this", famous last words down here in Tennessee.

[@luketdrifter2100]

The same up here in Michigan lol...the world over I'm sure!

[@artofplanninglaw]

Only preceded by "hold my beer!"

[@scttmtclf]

In his video, Paul Sellers said the angle should be somewhere between 35 and 45 degrees

[@abcarp1302]

Just wondering? Would it be stronger to sand the joint smooth or leave it rough? Love that router!

[@bascostbudde7614]

I think that if you sand the joint, it becomes more loose. That would be a shame. Joint floors will support a glue film when straight -- when I find time, I'll put up an experiment.

[@kosinskiarek]

awesome video, thank you

[@chomershaphal6674]

on your poor mans router, a longer board and orienting the blade and bevel hole so you can go with the grain so you are pulling toward the shoulder would make for smoother cuts

[@jackcrouch1285]

Merry Christmas to you, Lady Wrangler star and not forgetting young Jack God bless you All

[@all4180]

Nice video!

[@richardball9724]

Cody what is the make of the dovetail saw please. Looking to get one myself.

[@renenglishtutor9363]

I like the way he teaches, very clear explanation.....

[@ninjariagames]

I don't know about the rest but i use a Coping saw for dovetails and the tenon saw for ya know tenons

[@WarBerJr02]

Is that the mortis gauge from DIY Wood Design?

[@kennapop3]

Works WELL!

[@notaclue143]

Without seeing much of the saw - called Gents Saw to get tenon flat - cut kerfs into it - aligns to the scribed marks - and the bits near enough fall out all by themselves Nice idea about poor man router - with wedge - can change depth and use different chisels

[@elkordy47]

thank you professor. your good very very good. thanks. thanks

[@elkordy47]

شكرا لك فإنها معلومات مفيده جدا جدا من مصر أحييك وتبعث لك بتحياتى مع اﻹحترام .bay

[@SuspiciousAlertness]

That poor man's router was something else very informative thank you

[@troyna77]

on routers: a jig or template and then you will need a guide bearing. i think the poormans router is a perfect way to approach this problem. thanks.

[@JesusvonNazaret]

if you chamfer the corners with your plane hold it at an angle so that your blade cuts away from the board, that way the corners will not break even if you go past them Paul Sellers shows that in several of his videos (e.g. in his latest series of videos with the clock)

[@grodad7034]

Hey Cody. been watchin the comments about glue vs pegs and have to ask,, how on earth did all those huge post & beam barns stand for a century and a half BEFORE modern glue,, or nails for heaven's sake? One little tip is what to use for the pegs. Back in the day, when a man was about to marry and enter into the farming community (usually Amish etc) the elders would gather the boys and teach them how to whittle pegs out of Locust or Iron wood limbs. the men would mill the 12X12" in time for them to dry,, somewhat. the rest, you know. glue??? if you must, but skill will out. YOU don't need a drop! merry Christmas.

[@bascostbudde7614]

Oh, and on a related note, get to watch some Japanese woodworkers. Their timber frame joints are amazing, really. And glueless indeed.

[@Bluntzwerg]

It hurts to yee how you use the marking gauge :'(

[@JamesSmith-su3oz]

I like the tool you made. poor man's tool no. craftsmen are juged by the tools they make and you have made a nice cost effective tool.