Porsche 914 / VW Type IV 2056 Engine Build Part 4 [Project Bumblebee Build Week 18]

The engine is finally back from the machinist…but does the crank spin freely? Check out episode 4 of the engine build and find out! We’ll also set the crank end play and install the clutch. Jorge at European Motor Works makes a guest appearance as well!

[@IanKarr]

Hi! If you like my videos and they've saved you money or time, why not become a patron? Join for monthly zoom calls, exclusive content and swag! www.patreon.com/iankarr

[@69canarycamaro8]

I don’t have a 914 yet I’ve binged all your videos. They’re awesome Ian.

[@IanKarr]

Thanks man. You gotta find one and join the club!

[@914shorty3]

George at European Motorworks is so awesome, he work on the heads for my 914 Porsche awesome work in my book he's 100% true to his words. I'm enjoying my 914

[@IanKarr]

Thanks, Loretta!

[@harryloibl5183]

Ian are you a teacher if not you should be. You do a good job of explaining 😊

[@IanKarr]

Thanks Harry!

[@seanmabey1609]

Thank you for taking the time to make such great videos

[@IanKarr]

Glad you’re finding them helpful!

[@ncdave4]

Make sure you turn the crank ALL the way around at least one revolution to make sure the bearings haven't deformed in one small area which would allow the crank to jiggle back and forth but not a complete revolution. VW engines are nearly identical and what you've shown so far can be adapted to them. (no windage tray though)

[@IanKarr]

Thanks Dave!

[@TheMancan2007]

Just stumbled upon your videos before I rebuild mine. Now I get to follow along! Greats videos!

[@IanKarr]

Welcome aboard! Please subscribe and consider joining patreon for exclusive content ;) Thanks!

[@barnstormvalley]

Ian, I just stumbled on your awesome videos. WOW man! fantastic explanation and camera work. I will be building my 1978 2.0L FI in my bus really soon and am taking notes from your videos. Thank you for all your work and sharing with the community.

[@IanKarr]

Thanks so much. This community has been awesome to me and it's nice to give back.

[@robertfinegan4491]

I am so glad you got this worked out. I too selected EMW as my go to shop. My heads are in progress there, for my 2056 build and looking forward to there safe return ;-). Another Great Share. Thanks

[@IanKarr]

Nice. Jorge is definitely a solid guy

[@graemelliott3942]

Great video Ian! Jorge @ EMW is a great resource!

[@IanKarr]

Totally agree!

[@JoseGarcia-jb7xv]

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻Great video!!! As always!! Thanks Ian!

[@IanKarr]

Thanks for watching and commenting, Jose!

[@davemorrison709]

Another GREAT video Ian! Thanks!

[@IanKarr]

Glad you enjoyed it Dave!

[@housepumpinpc3983]

European motor works I hear does great work. That's where I'm going to send my heads and get my block decked and align bored. I sent my parts to Rimco to get a complete balanced rotating assembly. Everything seems to be in California. I do have Brad at 914ltd in Peoria closer to me.

[@IanKarr]

And McMark / Original Customs too. But I'm not sure how active he is these days...

[@dewder74]

"Oh yeah, this is moving so smoothly!" Wait, what am I watching?!?! LOL! Great vid as usual! :)

[@IanKarr]

Yeah. and I'm wearing a rubber. Glove.

[@stevenhenry8743]

Excellent video (as always)..

[@IanKarr]

Thanks again!

[@gregorykarr8621]

Great video as always. Cool hats!

[@IanKarr]

Glad you like them!

[@CrispysProjects]

Great in-depth video, like many of us watching we hope we don't have to do this for a long time!! Keep up the great work 👍I've always used engine oil to prime the rotational seals as well, but have found a thicker paste recently designed just for that job (more so for newer thinner oils) available thought our local VAG dealers

[@IanKarr]

Thanks, man. Will def look into that paste....

[@CrispysProjects]

@@IanKarr I've just posted on Facebook the picture of the paste, and tagged you in it (I'm not FB savi!) G052 128 A1, it does go a long way! Available at all VAG dealers and Porsche with a slight change to the part # 🤔😉

[@randalltaylor586]

stoked for this video!

[@IanKarr]

Appreciate it Randy

[@shrunkenheadfilms]

good job sorting that!

[@IanKarr]

Thanks man. Two steps forward, three back.

[@Piratelifebbq]

Great video

[@IanKarr]

Thanks for the visit! Please subscribe if you want to see more fun type 4 / 914 stuff

[@tedzehnder961]

You would think that with the end play for the crank that at least one shim would be perfered on the opposite side to help with case wear. If you got 3 shims having one at least would give a "slip surface" and then put the other two shims on the other side.

[@IanKarr]

Not sure why they didn't add a shim on the other side, but I've heard they decided on using three at the back for lubrication.

[@brenttaylor7300]

I had a very similar problem. Silverline bearings were a bit tight and toasted the surface on the rear thrust bearing from rotating it by hand. Shoved some mahle bearings in the case and checked with a bare crank and it’s spinning perfectly.

[@IanKarr]

Thanks, Brent. Apparently the quality control is all over the place.

[@moon-lit-rider987]

Hi great videos, good to see failures as well as achievements, it give us an idea of what to double check when building 👍 Do you know what BHP the engine produces?

[@IanKarr]

Hi Craig. thanks for the comments. I haven't dyno-ed it yet, but the seat of my pants says about 120

[@Rocco101]

Way to go bubs great job as always. I must have missed were you said you got your engine rebuild parts from .

[@IanKarr]

It's all in previous episodes. Stock crank. 9590 cam and lifters from type 4 store.

[@914_werke]

Looks like you are gonna need a new dip stick tube!

[@IanKarr]

Ha! Yeah, it got a little sad in the cross country shipping. I was able to straighten it out enough to get the dipstick in. Haven't really looked at what's involved to change it out.

[@TJ-ik3gn]

Hey Ian, when you installed the rear seal you used a stub axle. What was the stub out of? It’s to short for a bug and I noticed it still had threads and a nut on it so it hasn’t been shortened. Thanks for your help.

[@IanKarr]

it's from a 914 ;)

[@TJ-ik3gn]

Thanks. I went to The Samba and found a guy who had one for sale. It’s being shipped 😎

[@TJ-ik3gn]

Ian, why did you switch from Yamabond to Kril T2 on the second assembly? Thanks

[@IanKarr]

I found some Kuril online and Jake Raby said he preferred it, so I figured I'd give it a go. Worked great. But Yamabond is great stuff too.

[@ianoshea8817]

Hi ian - another Ian doing my first engine build on a 1700cc Type 4, stock motor. Your videos are a huge help, I'm following your every step.. one think I overlooked is replacing the flywheel bearing.. where did you get that part from, I cannot seem to find it myself. cheers from Dublin, Ireland

[@IanKarr]

Hi Ian! Do you mean the pilot bearing which gets inserted intot he flywheel? Here's a link...www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/111105313A.htm?pn=111-105-313-A-M40&SVSVSI=978&fs=0

[@ianoshea8817]

@@IanKarr yah that’s the one… I don’t recall it being on the engine when it was stripped; either it was missing or lost in the strip down.. or not on the 1700 engines at all!?

[@mecarloschavez6281]

How much a te sight out transmission forma 73 would cost ? I bought one for 500 usd is that a reasonable price ?

[@IanKarr]

Not sure what you're asking, but if you got a side shift 901 transmission for 500 and it works, you got a good deal.

[@davidahrens2841]

what engine mounting bracket are you using?

[@IanKarr]

The yoke is made by a guy on the Samba. Here's a link: www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=606308

[@alg109]

Hey Ian hope all is well I am converting a type 4 1.7 to 2.0 can you tell me the parts I need I appreciate your help the cylinder heads are done

[@IanKarr]

All type 4 914 cases are the same-1.7, 1.8 and 2.0. It's all about the crank, cam, pistons, cylinders and pushrods. Best advice is to buy a kit from LN Engineering

[@alg109]

@@IanKarr thanks Ian I appreciate your response

[@vintage76vipergreenBeetle]

👍

[@IanKarr]

thanks!

[@dewder74]

Ian Karr Did you have to buy that Clockwise gauge or were you able to rent it?

[@IanKarr]

Bought it on amazon ;)

[@dewder74]

@@IanKarr I watched your video about valve geometry. I noticed that you were setting it all up with the valve clearance set to zero. After the engine was assembled, did you recheck the valve clearance? I asked Raby why he sets his valve clearances to zero. His reply was because he builds his engines in a way that the heat transfer and expansion is uniform. I assume that he’s able to do that because he’s using metallurgically matched parts wherever he can; and using Nickies cylinders too.

[@IanKarr]

@@dewder74 thanks for watching. I used chromoly pushrods which are designed to be run at loose zero. Yes, I did recheck the setup several times before buttoning up the engine…but for loose zero.

[@dewder74]

@@IanKarr oh ok. Raby didn’t mention that. I was under the impression that the secret was using Nickies cylinders. Can’t wait to see another video. Maybe a shakedown cruise?

[@daveeddy2402]

Where did you find the engine stand yoke?

[@IanKarr]

www.thesamba.com/vw//classifieds/detail.php?id=606308

[@michaelsteel688]

Not seeing a video on cleaning the bottom of a 914, Mine has surface rust on the entire bottom of the car metal. How to clean this and repaint it?

[@IanKarr]

there have been a few recent threads about vapor / dry ice blasting on 914world.com...

[@michaelsteel688]

@@IanKarr what is that?

[@IanKarr]

@@michaelsteel688 what is what?

[@housepumpinpc3983]

@@michaelsteel688 vapor/dry ice blasting is sandblasting without sand. I know of only one place in the US that does this. The good part is no residue from media. The bad is price and only one place that does it.

[@JPA15]

Great video! Forgot to ask before, which gasket did you use for everything needed?

[@JPA15]

Sorry meant gasket set

[@IanKarr]

Victor Reinz. But it strangely didn't include the felt washer. I had a few extras.

[@JPA15]

@@IanKarr thank you for the help. I’ll know what to get separately, keep up the good work!

[@michaelsteel688]

hi Ian, my oil pressure gauge is not working. I didn't see a video on this. Where is the sending unit on this car?

[@IanKarr]

Hi Michael. These engines didn’t come with a factory oil pressure gauge. Just a warning light. The sender for that is just below and to the right of the distributor, through a hole in the engine tin. Tough to see. Check to make sure the wire is still attached. What year is your car? On 74 and later I believe the wire from the sender connects to the gauge wire at the block under the passenger seat.

[@michaelsteel688]

@@IanKarr Now I know why it's not mentioned in the service book. This is 1970 1.7. I did look where you mentioned but I am not seeing a wire in that location I do have a loose Green and Brown wire floating around but I was told that was purposely leftover for other cars. I would think it should be near the oil filter? Also, there is what appears to be a fan above the engine with two large hoses. What is that? How does it get its signal since that is also not hooked up?

[@IanKarr]

@@michaelsteel688 the fan above the engine is to push air through the heat exchangers and into the car. There should be two wires which go into that. Suggest you pick up a Haynes manual which gives a great overview of the car.

[@Iamthestig42069]

Just got my 75 1.8 torn apart. Needs everything. Is rebuilding economical or should I swap in something turnkey that’s already been gone through?

[@IanKarr]

Economical is relative. If you're rebuilding, and don't mind a little outlaw, I'd go 2056 with a 9590 cam. Same amount of effort, but a nice bump in HP. Time is really the big factor. How soon do you want to be driving?

[@Iamthestig42069]

@@IanKarr I played in this car as a kid, been gazing at it all my life. Want it on the road today but it’s very winter right now. Budget is around 2 grand

[@IanKarr]

@@Iamthestig42069 When you say it's torn apart, what exactly do you mean? If you want to get the car on the road quickly, I'd probably spend the 2K on a running engine...put it in the car and leave the old one off to the side until you have the time and funds to build it up. I assume it's a matching numbers engine?

[@Iamthestig42069]

@@IanKarr torn apart as in I had to disassemble the whole thing to get the crank to turn. One con rod, I think it was the #2 was seized to the crank. Jugs, pistons and bearing surfaces are scored to say the least. Was told it was a carb conversion that went wrong due to factory high pressure fuel pump meant for fi blowing fuel into the case past the rings and ruining the oil

[@IanKarr]

@@Iamthestig42069 Wow. In that case I'd see if you can find a running motor for 2K...and, like I said, restore the original one when you have the time and funds. If the heads are good, you're in for at least 2K to do the rebuild right (decking the case, balancing, new or reconditioned crank/rods/beariings/pistons/jugs). There's a decent chance you'll need head work too. I'd probably get new heads from Len Hoffman for about 2K.

[@gorporpio]

It's gonna leak.

[@IanKarr]

Amazingly, it doesn’t :) what makes you say that?