Power Steering Pump Replacement 1995 Chevrolet Silverado 5.7L PT.2 Pump Bracket Removal/ Box Flush

[@BlueCord2BlueCollar]

Thank you for your helpful videos brother. I noticed a few people giving you a hard time in the comments. To them I say 4 + 3 = 7 but so does 5 + 2. This video was to give you a guide. Not an end all be all. I'm waiting on them to post their own videos of how they were able to get the job done. Guys we need to build each other up not break each other down. This video was actually very helpful for me. Thank you again.

[@KNKRNR]

I appreciate that! This comment made my day! /K&K

[@BlueCord2BlueCollar]

Your very welcome! I'm tackling my 96 suburban this afternoon. The only difference I see is my ac compressor is above the pump instead of the alternator. But you gave me a good way to start and an idea of what I may run into. Happy new year and keep making videos!

[@charleywalker2982]

Going to give it a try the next day or two. Got a pump and puller from Oreilly. Will report back if I make it through the heat and humidity!!! Lol

[@gaminredneck5216]

Putting headers in my 95 and that bolt finna be hell on the bottom to get to, tryna not take all that shit off

[@KNKRNR]

That one bracket that hooks up to the exhaust manifold is a real bugger for header installs. /K&K

[@oldladyluck]

What is the bracket called because ours broke when we go to parts geek it looks like a front bumper bracket kit???

[@KNKRNR]

That's a hard part so you need to go the junk yard for that bracket. /K&K

[@charleywalker2982]

Thanks for the informative videos.

[@gilstrapnichlas8971]

Love ya man thanks for posting great walk-through!!!

[@mattm.8086]

The ones available at Autozone right now have bolts in the female stud mounts on the back instead of those green plugs. They have some sort of threadlocker on it that makes it INSANELY hard to remove them. Have you ever run into that?

[@KNKRNR]

Yes, depending on the application GM used two different serpentine bracket system for the trucks and their cars have two different ones as well. All four Bracket systems use the same power steering pump. Some holes may need to be removed and rearranged to correctly bolt up. You might find a stud where a bolt needs to be and a bolt where a stud should be. Which ever setup you had when you took it a part needs to be repeated for easy installation. Bind the new pump up against the front tire too remove those painted on fasteners. I hope this tip helps! /K&K

[@travisaudioelectronics12vo90]

I heard your arm click at 6:23 and 6:25 😁

[@KNKRNR]

I was in a bad car accident years ago that left me with some ongoing joint issues. /K&K

[@skylerrape33]

20ftlbs, holds the thing down with body weight

[@V22D]

Is the back bracket necessary?

[@KNKRNR]

Yes it helps shed a twisting force because the pump is making high pressure. With out that bracket you will most likely blow the seals in the pump. Its a pain in the rear but there's a reason why GM used it. /K&K

[@santana7226]

Why would you skip the part about putting the bracket in place the put the pulley back on? I mean we know you know how yo do it and what it looks like but some of us are going through this for the first time and don't or haven't seen how that instalation bolt fits or screws in place when putting the wheel back on.... Just saying 😅😂

[@mrgoodtimes05]

Why not jack the front end up and turn the steering wheel? Think about it

[@peterwhittle4752]

I dont see where the pump is identified. My truck does not have the original engine in it but the alternator bracket and mounting is the exact same as this engine. Anyone?

[@KNKRNR]

If your sourcing a new pump just use the year / model of the truck built as your identification number when you call the auto parts store. The engine swap shouldn't have any bearing on the power steering pump used if it fits in the factory bracket. Most people who do engine swaps would re-use the old belt drive accessories (A/C, power steering pump, alternator). /K&K

[@BRICH8376]

he didnt have to cut that line

[@KNKRNR]

This one did it was cross threaded from the last installer. A lot easier to cut line and remove with a deep socket then try stripping the nut with a flare wrench. Some people may not like this method much but it works. /K&K

[@albertluz9486]

All these videos are incomplete and don't show seal and o rings being replaced and put back together none of them except old style pumps it's easy to take apart fellas put the pump back together all of it pee brains

[@KNKRNR]

I plan on redoing this video once the opportunity arises. Thanks you for the constructive criticisms. /K&K

[@mike-bj4dk]

what about pulley and cutting that line is stupid

[@KNKRNR]

With core charges being so high we have to be careful how we disassemble these pumps. I know cutting the high pressure line sounds stupid, but its much easier to remove the high pressure line fitting from the pump with a deep socket then to strip the fitting and pay for a core charge. The high pressure hose is 1/3 the cost of the core charge alone. I find most of the time the High Pressure line is cross threaded in the pump for what ever reason. This method saves money and the hassle of trying to remove cross threaded hoses. In my shop this is the way we swap Chevy PS pumps so we can save the core charge and get the job done right once the first time. /K&K

[@jeremyshawley5119]

It is stupid and lazy I climbed underneath my truck and I got those so-called unreachable bolts behind the bracket that you can't reach so then once I had the bracket off I had a clear shot at the high pressure hose fitting nut and the clamp for the return

[@jeremyshawley5119]

And I just got my core back