Preparing the trawler go on the hardstand

[@jeffallen2923]

Subscribed. Would miss it for Quids! Everyone else has said the same thing about the rust holes. Grind back to bare metal. Mig them up and grind smooth. Paint just like the rest of the boat. Advantages? Well its VERY quick. You can do most of them holes in a few hours. Once you finish grinding you can go straight into the welding (no waiting), then when that's finished you are ready to paint (assuming you do more while each one cools). No waiting for epoxy to harden. Ready for rain instantly. And the weld is as strong as the deck - its the same material. Use gasless wire but dont try to layer a fresh weld on top of one you have just finished without chipping away the slag. If you do the slag will shrink and leave a crack for water to get in. use a copper plate under the deck. Hold it against the deck with whatever is handy - a piece of wood wedged against something would be ok as long as you check it often for burning! I use a strong magnet onto a part of the deck you aren't welding then rig up a clamp to that and the piece of copper. Copper wont weld, wont burn away and wont "add" any unwanted material to the weld. A decent plate of 10mm copper about 150mm square will last forever.

[@christopherhussey9286]

Brings back memories chipping paint ,wire brush ,red led, and battleship gray.,sometimes I miss it but now I can watch you go at it.

[@David-hm9ic]

No sage comments to offer here; just stumbled across your channel yesterday. As a Texas mariner we have always felt a kindred spirit with Australians. Love your project. I once bought a 43 foot (13 m) shrimp trawler with the same ideas in mind. Unfortunately for the boat project but good for me, I had a great job dropped in my lap and had to move across the US so the boat was sold before completion. I'll be watching with great interest. Your solid planning before acting should give great results.

[@groundzero.]

awesome boat, very organized and logical approach to fixing it up.

[@barryroach1980]

You practical engineering types amaze me! My strengths lay in different areas but I really have to take my hat off to you for just making what as I see as a nightmare into a "doable" project!!!!

[@DangarMarine]

I see it as a doable nightmare. ;)

[@thilltony3362]

I was going to encourage you to clean and weld a puddle over the rust pits, but I see that others have already chimed in. Epoxy will just come up, or worse, hide more rust. Thanks for letting us watch this project!

[@DangarMarine]

Hey Tony. Yes, I've definitely decided to do this properly first time and enjoy the confidence I'll have in the result. New video up very soon! :)

[@geoffbendall9519]

I have built and repaired a number of steel craft. Don't be afraid to chop out bad areas and replace with new metal, its as easy as once a few bits have been done. I am sure that you have decided on what welding system you are going to use, after that it is practice, practice, practice. Well done, love the postings.

[@DangarMarine]

I think you are right. It isn't a huge job and well worth the effort.

[@Kheir112]

Glad I found your channel. My goal is to someday, to live on a boat. So I will be paying attention. You have one other option for taking care of those holes. You could clean, and braze them Much stronger then epoxy, and less heat than a weld, which you could also do. A friend of mine has has a lot of success brazing the minor rust through in his boat. Once brazed, ground and primed, you will never know there was ever any rust there.

[@johnswimcat]

For me this is an excellent video. Honest, warts and all and very helpful. I'm hoping to buy and live on a canal boat in Britain and will have many of these problems. I don't have a lot of money but I can weld, grind, plasma cut &c so hopefully will manage

[@DangarMarine]

There has been a lot of work done to this boat over the last 8 months but most of it has been fun and it is now floating again. I'd love to do the canals of Europe myself one day.

[@ranank.3336]

I've been following your videos step by step as I live in Melbourne and planning to get one for myself by next year and I'm also going to do all the work so seeing how much going to cost me ahead of time is a good base Point and understanding what is important to fix .. what is necessary and what is not.. I might be getting a mechanic to have a look at the engine before I purchase.. I am very handy when it comes to fixing things like welding and painting but when it come to engines I have no idea what to look for. thanks again for making these videos to share what you are going through step by step as it's very helpful to the Average Joe who's buying his first boat

[@westend3019]

Good choice on the grinding accessories. A steel cup brush can do a lot of work for rust and painting. The phosphoric mix is brilliant. I'd suggest to apply it anywhere you paint, the Phosphoric removes any oxidation from the old paint so you get a good bond. Sounds like you have a good plan for the work.

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks mate. I was a bit dubious about painting over phosphoric acid but it sounds like it is quite the done thing provided you brush off any loose bits first.

[@westend3019]

@@DangarMarine I typically rinse twice. First with a very dilute phos mix and the second with pure water.

[@TJParr253]

I love your safety shoes. Great way to remove calluses.

[@carolmccorry3053]

Some really sound advice on here, hope you're listening to the wealth of experience being offered. Great vlog...

[@davebrittain9216]

I would clean up the holes, weld them over then grind them smooth. Solid and looks good!

[@benmac7315]

Exactly what I would do, or alternatively put a bolt through the hole then weld it.

[@chrisrmorriscm]

good set of plug welds and grind them flat, would work very well for holes that size

[@teddyrivas1082]

Dont know where your living, but if i knew i would help you and learn att the same time.

[@dannyoktim9628]

What a great channel . . . you showcase a Boatload of valuable information . . .

[@EricReitzel]

I love boat projects....You know what your doing...Looking forward to the journey with you...

[@jppowers5619]

Great looking lines, worth a shot at restoration.

[@strichards5337]

Hello. I'm a brand new subscriber. Kudos to KZbin algorithm bringing us together. Love this project. I plan to enjoy your content for a long time.

[@DangarMarine]

Great to have you on board! :)

[@e3IZrZ]

You sir got me hooked, I am dying to see how this boat turns out, I am watching the whole playlist now.

[@rootietooter1288]

Great video, love your presentation style and that you're not some "I know boats!" type guy. Awesome project and I can't wait for more installments.

[@mbkmmodels9406]

I worked on Survey (Corrosion) in the aircraft industry. You are doing all the right things here. The attention your giving to this is good also. Some people wouldn't see this as important but like you said the boat can literally rust from the inside out.

[@JoelWelter]

As a former glass and wood sailboat owner, I am strangely eager to follow this project. Love your full explanations of why you are doing things and the transparency of things like the costs. Keep it going! Cheers!

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks mate. :)

[@Fireship1]

This is one of the most exciting projects you’ve ever done (not that I didn’t enjoy all the past projects). This is more of a “large scale” boat but your showing us it can be done! You got a great deal for what you paid. That boat would have cost much more here in the US. Really looking forward to this one Stu.

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Jack, I'm really looking forward to seeing how it turns out. Oh, and your Christmas card arrived here at the workshop. Thank you for that, it was very thoughtful. :)

[@barrymunro3019]

So, 2019 looks to be the year to learn a heap of further skills from this interesting project. Thanks for sharing. Cheers from NZ.

[@christophermanley777]

Thanks for all your videos, really looking forward to this series. I've enjoyed your others for sometime. Good luck mate, I admire your courage and I'm sure it'll be an awesome boat once you're done!

[@lukeb4687]

i love how you are barefoot right nexto cut of wheels and grinders. you got some guts. i've seen cut off wheels shatter and impale themselves into walls. i love what your doing with the boat keep up the good work and be safe out there ;)

[@andrewgoodfellow4640]

People don’t miss much about going into the engine room. Looking forward to this series of vids. Often thought of doing something similar but wasn’t sure of how to go about it and how much it would end up costing. Great job Cheers

[@BobHansler]

Think this channel will go far. If you ever find yourself off the shores of Texas give us a hollar. Never know where a collaboration may be found.

[@zackL246]

New to the channel but loving it! Huge boating community here in Florida, USA

[@soaringheart2203]

Ah! I can't help but watch you dance around literal rust and can't help but think you're going to end up needing a shot down the road 😂 Thank you so much for posting these videos

[@alistairtatton7106]

Brings back memories of digging out rust !

[@motorv8N]

Such a great project Stu - just now working in catching up and going to binge on the rest you've got published. I think you got a lot of boat for that price for sure.

[@williamhoskins7818]

I think the vessel was a great buy. Very handsome boat. 7000. + sweat. Let's go diving!

[@nathanhornaday3114]

Great start 😎

[@bar10dr]

I love that you make sure not to splatter the paint all over 👍

[@True__North]

Hi Stu, you have 4000W Projecta Inverter which cost no less than AUD $2000. $7K USD is really a good price for this boat! I hope you will enjoy this project as we enjoying watching your videos! Looking forward to next video!

[@DangarMarine]

Wow, didn't realise they are that expensive. :)

[@Capital993]

Im really excited about this project! I can’t wait to see your progress and results of the sweat equity. Cheers 🍻

[@28cruzin]

Those rust pits and pin holes need weld. I say this because experience with steel and salt taught me. The only way epoxy filler will bond well is imediately after sand blasting. Even after sandblasting you are fortunate to get 2 years before cracking occurs and it is hard to do over. A mig welder is fast and easy. Use a fluxcore wire. The epoxy paint for the deck sounds good, but I found all the commercial guys around the Northeast US use epoxy barrier coat and give it a coat on the wear spots every couple years. I have been using this process since 2002 with only spot painting as needed. I think you did well for the money spent. Very well! All the windows I noticed were unopenable. Ventalation is important. I used a sound dampening product called "Silent Running" that you spray on and clean up with water. On line as "silent-running". Works great and is fuel and oil resistant. See you in the next one.

[@DangarMarine]

Yes, I have definitely decided to go the welding route. I would like to get some more ventilation in the cabin and wheelhouse, but I am also impressed with how completely dry and odour free they are at the moment.

[@S.Womack346]

I think its a nice boat. Plus you know what you're doing.

[@john7017]

Great Video Stu! Everything will work out fine. Enjoy!

[@gregorythomas333]

I am a new subscriber as I just found your previous video and enjoyed catching the start of this journey you are on. Used to work on an inland tug boat...steel of course...and one thing i noticed was there were no 90* sharp weld angles. Every joint had 2 welds...one above one below...and in between was a curved steel piece...water never got caught there. It seemed excessive but my capt explained that the boat was over 45 years old & still had the original deck plates! :)

[@perfectlylonely]

Thanks for doing the AUS to USA conversions. 👍

[@geoffbendall9519]

Not AUS to USA. Metric to Imperial. Neither of those countries conceived or own either system.

[@perfectlylonely]

@@geoffbendall9519 😁

[@DangarMarine]

Unless he was referring to the currency conversion not the measurement conversion.

[@perfectlylonely]

@@DangarMarine Anxiously awaiting your future vids. A few years ago, I had a 1985 steel hull "trawler", live aboard. The covered marina caught fire, in the night, and burned all the fiberglass and wood boats to the waterline. Mine was the only recognizable boat remaining. Fire gutted and warped the entire structure. Trashed a brand new 4 cly diesel. Your work, so far, is all so familiar. Show me I can do this again 😀

[@kevinsouth1216]

I am big Kev and I am excited Stu.You did very well with that price.With a bit of work you will have a great boat.I am looking forward to following your progress.Cheers.

[@MrJeep75]

I really like that little boat

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks mate. :)

[@TheToycloser]

Looking forward to the build. 100k here you come!

[@andrewdavies4604]

Love this. I've never done anything repairing boats, but I've done plenty of metalwork. Personally, I'd be investing in a 9 inch angle grinder, if you have the power to run it, or at least a much higher wattage 4 inch. Those small holes in the deck. Get some big drill bits, and some steel bar the same size. Run the drill through the holes, use a big enough one until you are back to good metal, then pop the bar in, weld it up, and grind it off flush. Quick and simple, and a lot better than cutting a piece out with a grinder, or fillering it.

[@DangarMarine]

More and more I am thinking welding is the way I will go with the holes. I really like the idea of putting the bar in through a drilled hole as my biggest doubt about welding was just blowing through the thin section at the bottom of the depression. I'm definitely going to get a larger grinder for the rest of the cutting.

[@CustomcrowdMitroc]

Can’t wait to see some more episodes of the restoration of this boat

[@daretodreamtofly3288]

This is an interesting video series so far. Only the second video I've seen but many of the boats I'm looking at are either all wood or wood and aluminum or steel hauls. Nordic and north sea style ships

[@Awesomedeersballs]

Going to school for Marine Diesel Technician and this is a good video to learn from. I hope to own my own boat to live on one day. I'll subscribe in hopes of more videos!

[@63256325N]

Can't beat the price for what you got as far as I'm concerned. Good on you! 👍 Thanks for the video.

[@PorkBarrel.]

You are ambitious Stu! Look forward to tagging along.

[@scottmoore9215]

Great stuff Stu enjoying.

[@ricardobrown8746]

I think that's a awesome project boat can't wait to see what you do with it. Good luck and keep up the excellent videos.

[@TheKnowledgeAge]

I'll most likely never own such a boat but it sure is fun watching how one would be repaired.

[@jamesfenton7338]

I have done all kinds of work barefoot, felling trees, repairing cars, etc. When it's hot, it's nice to have that option, otherwise I prefer some sort of armor. I have had grinding wheels come apart on me, clothes or even as little as a thick beard can stop flying bits of steel and grinding wheel. It took twenty years for me to heal from the last time a grinding wheel blew up on me. Eye protection is something I use every time I work, without eye protection I would already be blind.

[@Nerd3927]

Wise words! If your boat has 5 years left, patch it up and enjoy 5 years. Also the hardest to put in to practice!! I have fallen in love with my Steel Ketch 41ft motor sailer and named my Business after her.... Till death do us part :-)

[@DangarMarine]

I think it is all a matter of personal priority. If you what you really want is five years of cruising then enjoy that experience as much as you can rather than spending your time on the hard stand. If you fall in love with your boat though you're a gonner. ;)

[@martyjames6204]

loving this series!

[@UpDownUnder]

Just happen to find your channel. Really enjoying watching your journey.

[@akeeperoftheword]

Very cool project!

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Nice Stu, cool boat that are used around here for allot. Guys make a good living fixing these for commercial fishermen. These videos will be useful for sure

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Tim!

[@billadams1018]

It's gonna be a great experience with a nice boat as a reward. I'll bring the beer for the christening!

[@lancer2204]

Wow! Stu so is lucky he's got all these internet peeps to tell him how to restore the boat the "right way". It's really going to help considering his lack of experience around boats... wait... What do you mean he DOES have some experience?

[@kweenslandspearo1981]

🔥🔥🔥BEST COMMENT YET!🔥🔥🔥......however you could have used more capital letters to get your point across and the odd emoji may have helped set the tone of your comment😉

[@lancer2204]

@@kweenslandspearo1981 Should I have been MORE sarcastic?

[@kweenslandspearo1981]

👌🏽😂🤣😂🤣

[@markolav7017]

yep...everyone's an expert

[@evanterrell834]

Awesome. Love this boat. Keep the videos coming!

[@seanlathbury5410]

Really looking forward to following along. My back yard is the St John's river just down from Jacksonville Fla. I'm taking notes as, like you, I think this is doable. Keep up with the detailed info as long as you can. Best regards

[@jimterracall6766]

That’s funny, i’m in St. Augustine FL reading comments on a video from Australia too.

[@TheAfterWorkGarage]

For me, this is the most exciting yet terrifying time - getting into something you just bought and seeing what you've got. Great video, thank you!

[@jerm870]

Just found your channel and I love a good project, the new boat look like a fantastic project. I once build Mariners and Rivieres. I look forward to seeing the project develop.

[@0utkast3r]

Great job and video mate. Looking forward to the next one. cheers!

[@paulstinson7505]

Can't wait till she goes on the slips, love this video/this boat

[@darrellroeters4951]

Looks like livable structure.

[@donavanzeh4254]

Here in the USA "Dustless Blasting" using a Vapor Blaster. It's a sandblasting pot that mixes water treated with a rust inhibitor with crushed bottle glass inside the pressure pot. It blasts to bare metal without ANY degradation of the metal. ( Even 60 year old car bodies) with no dust. It will take the intire boat to bare metal in just hours.

[@DangarMarine]

I'll definitely have to check that out. I've seen a mobile guy that does it but it's quite expensive. I'll have to look into how big the compressor needs to be to do a decent job.

[@olspanner]

Super interesting videos, thankyou.

[@krisanderson997]

Oscar Goldman said it best. Gentlemen we have the technology. To build her better than she was before. Better, stronger, faster. I think in your financial decision, comparing the cost of a new (albeit used, but this is your new boat) boat over the cost of a new outboard is spot on. You get a whole boat versus getting an engine. You will need alot of “sweat equity”. However; your end result will be a boat you know from bow to stern. A boat you trust, because you know that everting is properly maintained. Once your on top of the neglect and maintenance, it’s no problem to keep it there. Its alot easier to keep her puffed up than it is to erase decades of neglect. Its probably gonna take a while, (i bet within a year though) but your end result is one tough boat that is a gleaming, comfortable, safe, reliable, wave crushing bad azz. I think there is alot of life in your hull. I dont hear anything from you or see anything that cant be repaired. I think you got yourself a boat that can easily go another few decades.

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Kris, I too think this boat has at least 20 years left in it. Will take a bit of effort but I think it is going to be fun. :)

[@anthonyquinn7887]

if your ever going to do this again or something like this remember shoes because it could get bad real fast, like metal shards in your feet and sometimes the grinding disks can explode and that can be a real hazard.

[@DangarMarine]

But then you have to wear jeans in case it hits you in the legs, and long sleeves, and a full face mask and then you pass out from the heat and get concussion and off to hospital you go! ;)

[@kweenslandspearo1981]

I've worked in the marine industry for nearly 20 years and most owners that carry out "all" their own repairs do it in bare feet or at most in pluggers, the other type of owner wears white leather deck shoes😉 . Keep up the great work I am frothing for this series💯🤟🏽.

[@anthonyquinn7887]

@@DangarMarine good point but if i was you i would at least have some sort of foot protection from the metal. Cant wait to see the end product, keep it up :)

[@Kirkuleas]

Better to have bare feet with a few metal shards than slip on a wet steel deck with shoes on

[@blakelieschke14]

@@DangarMarine nothing wrong with the old chinese safety boots

[@ediblenapalm69]

Stu, there is another channel on youtube about 3 people rebuilding a steel hull boat, they have come a long way to almost being ready to put it back in the water. You may be aware of them, their channel is called (building brupeg) they are also located in Australia. Thought that might be helpful. Good luck, I love the boat Stu, you made a great decision to buy that beauty.

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks mate, I'll check the channel out. :)

[@ronaldschloer1186]

ediblenapalm69 kn7

[@SDeww]

i used to have a polyester boat for the longest time, i always found the ease with wich i could repair it, the best part.. steel and wooden boats are very labor intensive!, and aluminium is very expensive

[@garysramblings8584]

Hello mate..just subbed as I found your site today.. I'm looking for a big steel live a board at present. Something ex commercial. I'm good with steel as it was where I started many years ago. The last steel hull I repaired was more like Swiss Cheese, especially around the rear. It was an old tug and the water had gone under the rear winch mounts and deck fittings. I visited my local metal supplier after a few sheets of the correct thickness. As I drove up I saw one of the fabricators throwing stuff in the scrap bin outside. Who doesn't enjoy looking in a scrap bin..lol There were hundreds of circular plates from 30 to 400 mm in diameter ranging from 3 to 15 mm thick, mostly mild steel..ideal. some were even stainless, all cut out by laser, so the edges were perfect. The owner lets me have them free and has for years as the scrap guy gave him peanuts, in fact he charged to take it away a lot of the time, I now own a set of hole cutters that fit the plates up to 120 mm and plasma cut the larger ones. bevel the edges and weld them in.. quick grind to dress them up, and I defy people to find them once the primer is on... I give the area a quick sand blast with a cheap diy rig and once the paint and grip coat is down it looks seamless. Best of luck going forward.

[@dandosreis1541]

If you decide to replace plate . Get familiar with "dogs" ,"wedges" and "finger bars" . I found it amazing what could be accomplished with these simple tools .

[@DangarMarine]

Great tip. I found this cool article on the subject app.aws.org/forum/topic_show.pl?tid=34367

[@petercarlson9463]

I'll

[@p51mustang24]

Cool stuff. Seems like a great way to get into a 30ft boat on an "ordinary mans budget" Not to mention that the project is satisfying in an of itself. Lots of room to make quality of life improvements once you take care of the functional stuff.

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks mate. I'm really looking forward to working on the fitout of the boat once the functional stuff is out of the way.

[@mrfrog3350]

Hey Stu, 7k isn't bad for a boat you can live on. What costs a lot here in Michigan is dock fees and fuel at the marinas. We're in fresh water,so it's interesting to see what salt water does to a steel boat.Looking forward to seeing her out of the water. I'm partial to the Detroits, because I'm from Detroit. You gotta admit,they sure sound cool.Thanks for posting.

[@11bayrat]

Thanks Very interested in welding on this hull.like on the green machine

[@CiLyXx]

Thats still a sweet boat, rust and all

[@hefnerwiezen]

This is awesome

[@rparker069]

with your deck holes I'd recommend auto bodyfill then epoxy deck paint, the auto bodyfill is great at filling small holes and levelling large areas

[@JCrook1028]

Bondo is a cheap low quality fix for auto body work for those too cheap or lazy to weld in new metal. I damn sure wouldn't want that crap within a mile of my boat.

[@WTFIsThisGuyDoing233]

I don't know shit about marine stuff but I sure do like watching this

[@jabangun]

Looking forward to the next videos!

[@matthewmoses4222]

Will be great to see her finished, she looks pretty sound overall just needs a good go over as you say and she will be off again for another 20 years :)

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Matthew, great to see you on the weekend. :)

[@stevencox75]

very cool, i looked at an old prawn trawler a few weeks ago but changed my mind

[@4wdtracks4551]

Just found your channel today you have some good vids keep it up Dangar good information too

[@Cameron-ur2tk]

In my experience of working on rusty cars, its much much easier to cut out the old and weld in new as long as theres not crazy complex curves. I think you'll get away filling some of those rust pockets with just weld then grinding it flat, Areas that have a ton of rust pockets i would cut out and replace. Sometimes the fastest way is just cutting it out and replacing with new. Like you mentioned, its all dependent on hull shape and whether or not its really warranted lots of work. I have a feeling the hull is in good shape. Search hi and low for someone with a sandblaster or power washer with sand blasting capabilities. That boat is pretty freaking cool.

[@kevinhornbuckle]

He needs a good plasma cutter such as a HyperTherm PowerMax.

[@Cameron-ur2tk]

@@kevinhornbuckleNo doubt plasma cutters are awesome, but you can get by with an angle grinder just fine. Best part of angle grinder is there zero slag, dont have to worry about catching anything on fire and clean cuts. Oxy acetylene works great too especially for mobile work. I think the big issue with plasma cutters is the need to for clean dry air, and good power source, hard to do that in a boat yard. Unless you get one of those hypertherms 30 with the compressor built in. Another issue with oxy- acetylene or plasma is the quality of cut, in the hands of a rookie theres a high chance you'll get some atrocious cuts.

[@bas6983]

Many times its not allowed ro take out parts as a boatvhas been built under and is classed certified via an organisation taking out steel requires them to pass by and approve the repairs and cut outs. Costing huge amounts of money. At least thats the merchant marine part of living.

[@felzinga]

​ Bas I cannot imagine that the boat still is classed, considering the amount of corrosion. And if she still is it will be most certainly be suspended at the least. So in that case class has to attend anyway for a survey to be reinstated with all cost incured and if that is indeed the case than I would consider to renew some steel because more than likely the steel thickness will not enough to be acceptable to get class reinstated.

[@jacknimble1]

Bite the bullet and get yourself a 220v mig welder 180amp minimum and a 220v plasma cutter and get it over with. I have bought and used a few of those cheapo chinese plasma cutters off ebay and they are somewhat disposable but will last a while if you don't overheat them. I would suggest a lincoln or miller welder only because it will be something that will last you close to a life time. A sandblaster would also be nice but that also requires a decent size compressor to work right. Right now you are just doing bandaid and bondo work doing it the way you are. I would bet you end up buying and learning to use them in the end. I am a new subscriber and I am looking forward to seeing what you do with her.

[@pimpshack81]

Man the weather looks nice there

[@DangarMarine]

This week is getting too hot!

[@roadrash1981]

Great video, love the bare feet while using the cold chisel , Just note Be very careful because them chisels can launch themselves out with some serious force!

[@seanbaldeschwiler1891]

If you measure the circumference around the packing gland you can simply divide it by pi to come up with the diameter of the stuffing box. Just take a piece of wire or thin line and wrap around the packing gland and mark where you meet the end then just measure with a tape measure. I'm guessing it's either 1/2" or 5/8" material. They should have what you need in the yard. If you don't have one find yourself a packing puller. It's basically a corkscrew on a flexible shaft. I bet you'll need 4 pieces of new packing. Put the seams 180 degrees from each other. A little longer is better as the material will push itself toward the inside of the stuffing box. I think an earlier post mentioned flattening with a hammer if you need to get the correct thickness. Sounds like you're planning on a shave and haircut on this haul out. The post from Vancouver Water Jet is spot on with what you should do for a full yard period. Looks like you have plenty of room underneath the stuffing box for a bilge pump and float and no oil either. If there isn't one already drill a small limber hole through that longitudinal as far forward as you can so water doesn't pile up on one side.

[@stevekynaston]

Shoes would be good when using an angel grinder . Great vid

[@BitBanger]

living the dream!

[@YellowPinkie]

8:56 Loving the safety footwear!

[@Alex-vb8kq]

I cringed at that as well

[@UenoLocker54]

Interesting project got me subbed. Looking forward to the magic.

[@volvogt21]

It was only slightly more expensive than your Royal Enfield..... it's a funny world we live in. No need to reply. Great work Stu

[@DangarMarine]

Good point, you're exactly right.

[@kens2114]

Have always been interested in a steel boat, ended up with a f/glass sailing boat in Pt Hacking. Was concerned about rust & how to keep up the maintenance. Funny really I’m thinking osmosis is probably more of a hassle. Anyway am enjoying your videos so thanks. Cheers.

[@DangarMarine]

Ah, I think whichever way you go there will always be challenges. Just enjoy the times inbetween. :)

[@deanfulford69]

I can't wait to see the next video

[@delboytrotter8806]

You got some work there bro....... Hope you got DEEP pockets !!!!! But good luck to ya !