Preventing Bandsaw Blade Breakage and Proper Tension EthAnswers

[@sebastiangraah7792]

*Making a hardwood fence for the miter makes all the difference **MyBest.Tools** Tune the saw with a combination square. Adjust the laser so its in line. See the photos.Every part in this saw is adjustable.*

[@Whatthensayyou]

I have the Rikon 10-306 and just broke my first blade yesterday a 1/2 3TPI Timberwolf.. A pucker up moment for sure!! Thanks for the tips on tension, I'll try the method out today!

[@rogergreen2270]

Nice point regards the length of the blade vs the tension chart.

[@markwilliams5429]

Hi I have a question to ask you if you can help I would be grateful. I own a Draper bandsaw and my blade got stuck in the wood while with drawing and come of the wheel, so not thinking I have slacken the wrong adjuster, so now I’m having trouble putting the blade back on, waiting reply Mark,

[@garyfairbrother5532]

I just subbed. Mainly because you come across as a really knowledgeable and sincere guy.

[@tassie7325]

Searching for the age old answer this is the second one I have seen that talks about the blade fluttering/vibrating. Neither the other one nor this one gives us a view of the blade straight on so we can actually see what you are talking about

[@snort455]

Thank you! Just the info I needed this morning.

[@SMee67]

Love the quick and precise tips, mate👍

[@alanchappell414]

Best explanationI have seen👍👍thank you very much👍👍

[@dagrynch]

Always run your saw and look for excessive back-forth motion in the blade! I noticed my blade was oscillating back and forth (in the direction you move work through the saw) Turns out the blade had a crack swapped it out without incident!

[@gregskarzynski7853]

Tnx for the tip. Really helped. I just snapped a 1/2 in blade. I believe it was overly tight. Ty again

[@johnmcauliffe9895]

Excellent Demo - keep up the great work

[@DennisDolan-fl3mw]

backing out of a cut always screws me and my blade. The blade gets hung up and flies of the wheel or breaks.

[@erritwilson9927]

I have a Rikon 10-347. I purchased a lexon 1.25 carbide blade. It broke this morning. I only had it for 6 months. I am trying to get a idea what caused it. I never could get it to tighten up to that lable. guess it was to tight.

[@mikethewoodworker6194]

As always thank you for the share see you at the Toronto show

[@StockroomSupply]

Thanks Mike, Seeya there!

[@gregorypruitt5068]

I have a Rikon 10-305 10in band saw, and I have experienced bade breakage also. I cut Kydex, and thermal plastic used for making holsters. My cuts are mostly straight. But the finish work required curved cuts. The blade I use is the Olson 70.5 Long, 0.125 wide, 14 TPI, .0.25 Thick. When the blade is close to breaking, I can and feel the weld bumping against the work. When the blade finally brakes and I am removing it, It is amazing how brittle the blade is as I am folding it before placing the blade in the trash. Any pointers on how I can get more mileage out of my blades?

[@davejoseph5615]

A dial indicator is pretty cheap. A digital scale is pretty cheap. Can't you combine those two with a little jig and measure blade tension?

[@DavisStillson]

Thanks for the tip, I've been breaking too many blades...

[@guilded7th]

What's the special stuff for 3 wheel bandsaws?

[@paulround8501]

It is a thinner more flexible metal, plenty of blade suppliers have blades specially for 3 wheel saws. These thinner blades also work well in the small 2 wheel saws because they are much easier to tension which is better for small hobby type saws.

[@raymondturpin3265]

Thank you

[@grwuk8290]

Great useful video 👍👍

[@ottiegarrity]

I have a 1 week old Porter Cable 14 inch bandsaw and I've broke 2 blades. I set tension just as you do here. Mine aren't breaking at the weld and are cheap Bosch blades from Lowe's. The second one that just broke an hour ago, seemed like it was getting dull. It was making noise at the blade when it contacted the wood and was getting a little tough to cut them bam, broken again? I put cool blocks in place of the metal guides the saw came with. Thoughts? Cheap blade? Cutting 3d reindeer. First blade, 1/4 inch got to 4rth deer and snap. Second blade, 1/8 inch and got through about 9 or 10 then snap?

[@ottiegarrity]

I hate auto correct!

[@wadepatton2433]

Are your guides set up properly? Tension isn't that critical. Find the setup video by Alex Snodgrass. He's the master. Also, other experts have told me to never run big box store blades-to buy from woodworking supply houses or aftermarket blade manufacturers to get better blades.

[@charlesmerrifield1734]

hello nice tip can you make a review of the rikon 10-347 can't fine on youtube i am looking at laguna 18bx or rikon 10-347

[@BRJR12341]

I've had my 10-347 for a couple of weeks, it is a great saw. That said look at the 10-353, it is less expensive, 3hp instead of 4, couple inches less clearance. The 347 has a less robust table adjustment mechanism, only one miter slot. Not sure why the more expensive saw has less features, maybe cost saving measure. even their small saws have two miter slots. Ethan love to hear your comments on the changes.

[@charlesmerrifield1734]

@@BRJR12341 thank you for the info. the 347 less robust table adjustment mechanism??? i don't get it , is it cheaply made or look's cheap ?i want a 18in saw for the bigger wheels so let me now pleas

[@BRJR12341]

@@charlesmerrifield1734 Go to the Rikon site and look at the close up pictures of the table and back of saw. The 353 has a long handle that unlocks the table clamp mechinism, it pulls down through the trunion. You can see it in the pic of trunion. The 347 has a ratcheting bolt that pulls the trunion tight. The 353 has a crank handle to adjust the tilt, The 353 has a removable handle that looks like a socket with a metal bar with two bolts on the end. I'm sure both systems work it just seems like a step dowm on a more expensive saw. If I had to do it again I'd save the 700$ and get the 353

[@charlesmerrifield1734]

@@BRJR12341 thank you, now y ave doubt abut the 10-347

[@StockroomSupply]

Hey Guys, The reason there are no reviews of the 10-347 yet is they have just finally come in! I got my first saw last week and the same day a very anxious customer came and bought it. I did have a chance to look over it quickly though. It is simply and awesome heavy duty machine. Regarding the table tilt mechanism it is very similar to the older 10-346. It uses a heavy rack and pinion system with a removable handle to tilt the table. Due to the table being so large and heavy the extra long removable handle is necessary to accurately tilt the table. It is definitely heavier and more robust trunion than the 10-353 though slightly less convenient to tilt. Still in my opinion leaps and bounds ahead of its competition. Hope this helps! Ethan

[@jimkownacki3629]

Great video!

[@WV591]

here I was feeling ripped off because my saw doesn't have a tension gauge. good one. no pushing the blade, listening to C notes or using gimmicky toys. .TU

[@cattleNhay]

He says “ahh” more than there are teeth on the blade ;) haha, no hate

[@shahidhussain6961]

i want this technical lesson in hindi sir

[@vicsaunders9710]

👏👏👍